Hello to all my name is Matthew and I like the efficiency of diesels and like the looks of old VW's. Well at the end of the month I will be starting my diesel conversion in my 66 beetle so I have a lot of reading to do. I have been wanting a diesel for a long time and after looking around for a while I didn't really find a good candidate but there is a decent amount of older beetles that are pretty light. So I thought about combining the two so I would have a car that I like and is built by me. Building the car would give me the knowledge of the parts installed and what to look down the road for maintenance. As of right now I have replaced the entire wiring throughout the car and replaced the entire suspension components to include disk brakes all around.
I have read many pages on gearing and I think I will be going with a 3.44 r&p with .82 fourth gear which gives a fd ratio of 2.82. I have one other option of .77 but that is another 225 dollars to the rebuild and it will give me fd ratio of 2.64. Is that much of a difference in a 1700 car?
I haven't yet decided if this car is going to have fenders or not, I really like the look of the fender less volkrods. Also would like to keep the car kinda stock looking but decisions decisions. I will be posting picture soon as I start it the work, I have some older pics I will post soon as I find them.
http://www.actiongrafix.net/images/phrog.jpgThe gas burners are gone and the car is stock height in the rear but down 2.5 inch in the front via drop spindles with a narrowed 4 inch beam.
If you have the car as THAT bare of a skeleton you may want to consider the 1.9TDI and somehow make it fit and the dash transfer over. That would be pretty neat.
I wasn't aware that you could make a TD fit though. I thought they were too tall?
Budget restricts that motor and I might not have a rear hood. I have searched the Internet and had found a few pics of these motors fitting.
There is a thread that tells that I need two add two new larger fuel lines and to add fuel pump. Also the radiator in the front with lines to the front also.
There is a thread that tells that I need two add two new larger fuel lines and to add fuel pump. Also the radiator in the front with lines to the front also.
When I stuffed the 1.6td into my samurai I didn't install a fuel pump. The injection pump draws from the tank and through the filter just fine.
My conversion is more or less "stock" if you were wanting to run high horsepower you may want an external pump.
I think you missed it. Stock VW said 5,100 RPM to 5,300RPM is what the gov. range is. With the mod depending on how much you shim or Giles puts in I think it is no longer limited by the pump. Then it will more be limited by the valvetrain and the pump head skipping.
On the gearing, I'd look up some stock VW diesel gear box ratio's and tire size and do the math. The things will turn 5K, but you don't want to be doing that running 70mph or such. I'd shoot for a bit taller than the stock gearing.
The stock box I believe is a 4.37 rp with .89 4th gear, the current gearing is 3.88rp with .89 4th and I have 25.8 inch tires.
I have read this topic:
http://www.vwdiesel.net/forum/index.php?topic=22607.0 on gearing how tall is too tall. Mothediesel is running 3.78/2.06/1.21/0.7 with a 3.44 r&p in his speedster with probably a lot more power than I will have for a bit. Also I googled gear ratio calculator and came up with this site:
http://www.csgnetwork.com/gearratcalc.html and throwing in my gearing .89x3.88=3.45 will have the motor turning 3370 rpm with 25.8 in tires @ 75 mph with 3.45 ratio.
If I am doing this calculation wrong someone please let me know.
Could you run two small rads like in a porche?
997TT Have three radiators, I know have 2008 with all the goodies
Non turbo's have two radiators
2011 GT2RS coming
I want to add a 16 v radiator 675 mm long to the caddy, there are two versions of radiators a/c and non a/c
angle outlet's versus st outlet's ?
Gee-Bee
I'll probably get the one with A/C cause that would be so nice when temps are over 100.