Build Thread for Rudy Rabbit - 1977 1.5na to 1.6na and everything in between - Upgrades (non engine related ) - VWDiesel.net The IDI, TDI, and mTDI source.

• Build Thread for Rudy Rabbit - 1977 1.5na to 1.6na and everything in between by mstephenson on 19 Jun, 2010 12:42
• Well, I started a new thread since we completed the injection pump timing exercise.  I say we because I certainly didn't do it alone on this forum.  Thanks again!
  http://www.vwdiesel.net/forum/index.php?topic=25156.0
  
  Build Thread for Rudy Rabbit - 1977 1.5na to 1.6na and everything in between
  
  The above exercise discovered something wrong with the motor so that part is on hold.  I don't want to do any motor work until I have a concrete floor.  So this thead will start with the interior.  At least I'll have a cool wabbit I can sit in and make vroom-vroom noises.  :-)
  
  This is what I want Rudy to look like except the shoes and it'll have a roof rack.  It's also my in sig.  This pic is of an Austrailian 76 diesel.
  
  
  WINDOW SEALS:
  Objective - Windows that don't leak or fall out.
  
  The old ones came out so easily it was almost distrubing.  The rubber was all rotted.  I ordered seals without the inserted trim piece accidentally, but glad for it.
  
  
  As you can see above it just came apart.  I was told to cut the seal from the outside.  That seemed too hard so I just went from the inside and turned up the rubber and peeled it away from the headliner.  And pushed and the side glass pieces came right out. 
  
  The back window is heated so just in case someone else doesn't know (and Bentley doesn't tell us), pull the connectors off.  They are spade connectors and the male half is glued to the glass and the female is part of the car.
  
  
  There is some cancer.
  
  
  
  HEADLINER:
  It had some tears in it when I bought it and I needed to work on the sunroof and I wanted to do some sound proofing so it got ripped up further.  I think I am going to pay someone to re-install.
  
  
  SUNROOF:
  I have a broken part (#171898015).  Henry at VW-CollegeStation found me a cable.  Sunroof drain tubes will be tested/fixed and sunroof put back together.
  
  FLOOR:
  Seats are out and most of the carpet as well.  It's a pain for sure.  Rear floor pans still have some glued down mat stuff on it.  I'm going to try the dry ice method since so many have been asking questions about it here and on vortex.
  
  
  
  
  
  I have POR-15 to stop/fix/prime rust spots and that is what I'm doing first around the windows so I can get the headliner put back in
  
  Michele
  
• #1 by theman53 on 19 Jun, 2010 13:58
• Yes. Someone other than me that is taking there entire life to repair rust on an old VW. Mine was MKII and I couldn't find a supplier of floor pans, but MKI has a drop in. Just cut the spot welds and stitch it back together. I think it was MKI autohaus or something like that.
  
  Just for good measure When I had my interior out I had the great idea of replacing the heater core, evap core, and anything else in the dash that I figured could go bad. The heater core is a lot easier with no interior. Stuff like that is why my build in my sig line is still going on. There is always something else I could do...that and instead of working on it I am watching the kids
• #2 by mstephenson on 08 Jul, 2010 00:32
• injection pump timing exercise.
  http://www.vwdiesel.net/forum/index.php?topic=25156.0
  
  SUNROOF:
  
  Installed new cable guides and it's pretty straight forward.  Put back on in the same order as you take off.
  
  I took a pic of the back right drain tube for anyone who has never seen one on account of the headliner.
  
  
  
  Adjustment of the sunroof cables is in manual and I'll commense with that tomorrow.
  
  HEADLINER:
  
  Does anyone have any comments or recommendations on headliners?  I have looked at Headliner Mart and Stockinteriors.com.  Newton Commercial doesn't seem to have the 2-dr sunroof option.
  
  Thanks,
  
  
• #3 by GEE-BEE on 09 Jul, 2010 19:42
• Any int shop can do it for you, I did black fabric on mine, all pillars are english leatherette vinyl from a LX model caddy..
  
  I did stockint, Junk
  Go newton on the carpet kit
  
  Door panels I did TMI custom for remote Mirror and 3 point cabby door pull / armrest
   ( perfect)
  
  I installed all new glass and seal's
  
  Need pic's
  
  Email me at [email protected]
  
• #4 by 8v-of-fury on 10 Jul, 2010 11:06
• meee-shell, glad to see there is some progress
  
  What about a plaid headliner?
  
  
• #5 by mstephenson on 24 Jun, 2012 14:35
• Well, after nearly two years I'm building RudyRabbit the FrankenBunny.  I just looked at the last post and it was from a LONG time ago.  Amazing how time slips away.  Not all a waste as I have been building a shop which is now functional and is called the "Hutch" which contains my three bunnies.   
  
  But I've given myself a running date of early Sept.  So that means minimal body work.
  
  I want to get the motors out for the transplant as soon as possible to clean and piece together something better.
  
  So, I've been disconnecting all the wiring/hoses/etc from Robbin' (81 GTD) to pull the 1.6na/5-speed.
  
  Michele
  
• #6 by theman53 on 24 Jun, 2012 22:01
• So cool. As soon as I saw this post I remembered you from long ago.
• #7 by mstephenson on 26 Jun, 2012 10:47
• Draining Rudy's tank while writing this.  Guess what came out?  Not the sludge I found in the fuel filter.  GAS.  Guess that's why it doesn't run anymore.
  
  So, taking care of that business and will drop the tank to clean or replace.
• #8 by mstephenson on 29 Jun, 2012 09:58
• the ip gear is frozen to the shaft.  I have used pb blast and a small gear puller, but to no avail.  any suggestions or other tools?
  
  thanks all
• #9 by mstephenson on 29 Jun, 2012 18:17
• well, after many attempts with the gear puller and pb blast it still didn't work.  so, i used fire.  i mean heat.  i mean it caught on fire.  i mean lots of heat, pry bar and two "taps" from a sledge.
  
  what an adventure...
• #10 by Blocksmith on 30 Jun, 2012 17:30
• Caught on fire?     Sounds like you'll be resealing that pump.... I forget exactly where, but there's a really good thread somewhere around here about how to disassemble and reseal a pump. Lots of good pictures.
  
  I've never heard of one sticking that bad; usually they come off pretty easily with just a gear puller, though sometimes it helps to tap on it with a  hammer while under tension from the gear puller. Since they've got a woodruff key and aren't dependent on friction to keep everything aligned, lately I've been putting a little smear of anti-seize to aid with future disassembly. Works pretty nicely.
  
  Good luck with getting everything running; we're rooting for you!
• #11 by 8v-of-fury on 30 Jun, 2012 17:34
• Gear pullers hardly work right because they cause the flimsy cast pulley to bend actually squeezing down tighter on the shaft. A little pre-load behind the pulley with a flat head screw driver and a few raps of the handle generally work for me the several dozen times I've taken a pump off a car. Surprised you didn't shatter it using a sledge hammer! :O lol
  
  Unless you melted the shaft seal, it should need a rebuild in result of the heat. But you are probably pulling the pump to reseal it anyhow, so make sure to replace that one as well .
• #12 by mstephenson on 19 May, 2013 21:03
• Almost a year later and I'm back working on Rudy Rabbit.  I just pulled the "good" motor/tranny (1.6D & 5-sp) from an 81.  The odo says 161K miles.  It came from where roads were salted and looks like it.  It is greasy and gunky.  I don't mind unbolting something, cleaning it, painting it, and putting it back on, but what then there's the block, etc.
  
  I'll post pics.
  
  Any tips/tricks?
  
  Thanks.
  
• #13 by burn_your_money on 21 May, 2013 17:47
• Put it in a trailer and bring it to a self serve car wash.
  
  I'm amazed that after 3 years you are still going at this. I don't know if I have that kind of patience.