The 11mm diesels both 1.5 and the early 1.6 did not have stretch bolts.. Unless someone swapped gasser head bolts in your engine (which are stretch bolts and typically do not work, although I've heard rumblings about people using half of a vr6 head bolt set with success) you can reuse the bolts you have if they all look okay.. Clean the threads on the bolts and block well!! Those non stretch bolts are still notorius for problems even on non turbo apps.. Torque with caution and pray...
The 1.5 head gasket (which is different) had 2-5 notches.. The 2 notch is thinner than any of the 1.6 gaskets, but the 3,4, and 5 notch are actually the same thickness as the 1.6 1, 2, and 3 notch gaskets.. I suspect the change in notch numbers was to help with differentiating them...
no matter what bolts you use, you still run a risk of cracking the deck from the torque. thats when 99% of blocks get cracked.
but yea jeremy, those right there are the bolts ive taken out of every 1.5 ive owned. they should work for what you wanna do. just like brett said, torque and pray. its an 11mm block.
and if its a little re-assurance, i have stock non stretch bolts with a stock headgasket and i run 25+ psi boost. and its been that way since i built it. the first engine grenaded a block from lifting the head and taking the bolts with it. lol
ugh, Torque and Pray. not words I wish to hear fellas! lol
I'm gonna do it like this, finger tight, then torque each bolt in sequence by 10ft.lbs... I think that slow should be safe eh?
also what should i do to clean the threads out? A bottoming tap? or w.e there called.
UGH! FUEL LEAK! I got some snowmobile fuel line, which had a smaller 1/8" I.D then the other hose had.. lol and then i even got smaller zip ties to go around the barbs. still leaks, instantly after starting. like wth! So i took off the return line to the tank thinking MAYBE its blocked causing it to piss out the return lines. Nope blows through easily... I do not get it. Brett I may need some of your 300ft of line. lol got any ideas here guys? are the lines not supposed to be 1/8" thought they were for sure. Also i cracked the return bolt on the pump, all looks good in there no anything, just diesel.
damn it jer! do you need the bit?!
i have the bit for the head bolts and i do not ever need it again!
for what it's worth finger tight is like 1 ft/lbs. Go to like 30 or until the torque wrench is somewhat difficult to turn. you'll be able to tell when the threads start to get pulled. finger tight is nothing.
damn it jer! do you need the bit?!
i have the bit for the head bolts and i do not ever need it again!
for what it's worth finger tight is like 1 ft/lbs. Go to like 30 or until the torque wrench is somewhat difficult to turn. you'll be able to tell when the threads start to get pulled. finger tight is nothing.
i dont remember what the torque spec is, but i remember that i torqued all my bolts in steps. i did a light torque(around 30 ft lbs) then a medium torque(around 45 ft lbs) then a final torque to the required spec. its worked good for me. and if a bolt just wont get tight, take it out and check that the shank isnt stretching. my grandpa broke a head bolt off in one of his last engines.
I will torque in steps then
ED calm down! i have that bit already! lol
What to do with the fuel leak?
damn it jer! do you need the bit?!
i have the bit for the head bolts and i do not ever need it again!
for what it's worth finger tight is like 1 ft/lbs. Go to like 30 or until the torque wrench is somewhat difficult to turn. you'll be able to tell when the threads start to get pulled. finger tight is nothing.
hey ed, why dont you need your triple square bit? if you dont need it, i sure could use one. i hate having to go to my grandpas every time i need to use his bit..
there you go Ed, send it to Kevo
