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#75
by
burn_your_money
on 23 Jul, 2010 11:43
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When you say head you mean top cover right?
I would remove the peg and spring from the stop solenoid and see if you get fuel to the injectors then. Be aware that you won't be able to turn the car off, you will have to stall it.
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#76
by
Robb
on 23 Jul, 2010 11:46
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Yeah I mean top cover, I will try removing the peg and spring and see if anything changes.
Could it be some sort of air lock still even though its pump to the return?
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#77
by
Rabbit on Roids
on 23 Jul, 2010 12:02
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you didnt put the throttle lever back in the same spot, or didnt get the max fuel screw back to the same spot. the throttle is just too low to inject any fuel would be my guess..
and there is a way for ONE piece of dirt to block all 4 injectors.. get a chunk of dirt in the feed for the pump element.. there is only one piston and bore, pumping fuel into 4 different pipes. all 4 pipes have the same fuel intake inside the pump..
i really doubt that happened tho. you just messed up the throttle system. you took the max fuel screw out before you took the pump off, right?
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#78
by
Robb
on 23 Jul, 2010 15:46
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Havnt found the cause of it not getting fuel out for the injectors yet but Ive just made a problem ten times the size for myself.
In removing the head and trying to fit it yet again, somehow I have managed to loose the tiny waited arm bit that connects the small spring
Now I dont know if its gone inside the pump or down the back, but either way I am going to have to remove the pump and drain it to try and find it now.
Im really worried as Im kind of well out of my depths now, really wish I hadnt done this, but theres no point getting stressed about it all I can do is try and resolve the issue!
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#79
by
rabbitman
on 23 Jul, 2010 16:43
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What do you mean by "waited arm"?
Screwing the max fuel screw in would most likely have fixed it. If no that then reindexing the lever on top would have done it.
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#80
by
burn_your_money
on 23 Jul, 2010 18:21
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Use one of the magnets on a flexible shaft and go fishing inside the pump. What kind of pump are you working on?
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#81
by
Robb
on 24 Jul, 2010 02:48
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Its a pump of a GTD so the 1.6td pump
I tried turning the max fuel screw in, still didnt start, no matter what the throttle was doing it still wouldnt start either
The bit i mean attaches the shaft that goes through the outside of the pump to the cold start spring, its got a tiny weight on 1 side and a hoop to attach the spring on the other side.
Was thinking about a magnet on a shaft, however Ive got nothing suitable
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#82
by
Rabbit on Roids
on 24 Jul, 2010 15:06
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Havnt found the cause of it not getting fuel out for the injectors yet but Ive just made a problem ten times the size for myself.
In removing the head and trying to fit it yet again, somehow I have managed to loose the tiny waited arm bit that connects the small spring
Now I dont know if its gone inside the pump or down the back, but either way I am going to have to remove the pump and drain it to try and find it now.
Im really worried as Im kind of well out of my depths now, really wish I hadnt done this, but theres no point getting stressed about it all I can do is try and resolve the issue!
the "head" is on the back of the pump just so you know. its got 4 fuel lines coming out of it, and the stop solenoid mounted in it. i believe you are calling the top of the pump, the head? the boost enrichment can? has a boost line going to it. thats the pump top, not the pump head..
and just fish the parts out of the pump and put them back where they go. why were you taking the pump this far apart anyway? did you even get the throttle shaft hooked back up to the throttle arm? do you have any idea what you are REALLY doing?
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#83
by
OM617
on 24 Jul, 2010 17:46
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do you have any idea what you are REALLY doing?
Rotary pumps are ridiculously easy to take apart and put back together.
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#84
by
Robb
on 25 Jul, 2010 03:07
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My apologise for calling the top the head didnt realise it was such a problem, no I wasnt removing the head I was removing the top as I was only doing a gov mod.
I did however remove the pump and find the part yesterday, it was snapped though hence why it had fallen inside the pump.
Think Im just going to end up buying a new pump at this rate, really messed up this gov mod.
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#85
by
Robb
on 26 Jul, 2010 10:08
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Got the part I messed up fabricated locally, so put the pump back together and after alot of bleeding Its no getting fuel up the the injectors.
Ive just messed up the timing of the fuel pump as the sprocket needs setting to the correct timing with the cam and crank, once that it done hopefully she should fire.
At least I have got the pump running fine again though with the shimms on the governor
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#86
by
smutts
on 06 Oct, 2010 06:37
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Rotary pumps are ridiculously easy to take apart and put back together.
and to f**k up in the process.
What I have never got about the govenor mod is how is it better than adjusting the max speed stop screw for more goodness? You get most of the advantages without the hassles of surgery. Also the yearly U.K. MOT test involves some monkey leadfooting the car to the governed speed in neutral, (at YOUR risk!) This is for testing emitted smoke. Emitted engine internals can be avoided by readjusting the max speed screw, then put back once passed. This seems to be a right pain if you've got to gut your pump twice every year.
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#87
by
745 turbogreasel
on 06 Oct, 2010 18:49
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It's about area under the curve, not max RPM.
For testing, you take your gov moded pump, and turn the max speed screw until it cuts out at something near stock, no biggie.
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#88
by
8v-of-fury
on 06 Oct, 2010 21:56
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Yes, Smutts you are only raising the max rpm when adjusting the max speed screw.
When doing the governor mod, you are altering the fuel curve that the pump sends the engine. With just turning the screw, sure the governor may give you a little bit more fuel at 4700+ (when it cuts fueling).. but the gov mod will give you more fuel from idle on up to BOOM-RPM
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#89
by
smutts
on 14 Oct, 2010 13:10
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Right, I will do a bit more reading on my Bosch book