Modest performnance mods advice - page 1 - IDI Engine - VWDiesel.net The IDI, TDI, and mTDI source.

• Modest performnance mods advice by dubCanuck1 on 07 Nov, 2005 11:29
• Hi all,
  
  I'll be pulling the TD from the 92 Jetta later this month. It's my dad's car and I'd like to give him a modest performance boost, but don't want to go overboard. Here's my list of ideas.
  
  Engine work (New rings, seals, etc...)
  GTD Injectors
  Intercooler
  Boost gauge
  Modified boost
  New clutch/lightened flywheel (The old one's dead, so I might as well get him a decent part to replace it)
  Governor-ectomy (has anyone figured out an "in-between" solution for this; one that allows for more RPM's but still has some protection against over-reving.)
  
  So, knowing that when you do one thing, you often have to follow up with another, which order do you recommend I do these things in? I'd like to bang off the easy ones first.
  
  I'm definitely doing the Engine work first with the engine out. I will do the remainder with the engine back in the car.
  
  Please, if you could give some recommendations for the bester I/C to use. I'll start scouring the salvage yards.
  
  As well let me know combinations of the other stuff you have seen work well in the past.
  
  Thanks all.
• #1 by dubCanuck1 on 08 Nov, 2005 10:33
• No ideas? I don't need the DIY's, just an order of procession for those who have done the workup.
• #2 by malone on 08 Nov, 2005 10:51
• Quote

  which order do you recommend I do these things in?

  
  
  I'll start:
  
  * Engine work. Use a 1.9TD head gasket just because it's stronger and it doesn't cost much more.
  
  * Governor-ectomy - it may be easier to do this while the engine's out. Partially compress the spring with some washers instead of fully compressing it so that the fueling will still drop off before RPM gets too high. Nice use of "ectomy" by the way! Does your dad's car have a tachometer?
  
  * Clutch / flywheel. A stock 16v setup might do the trick if you can get it for cheap. Shaving the flywheel is an option.
  
  * While you are timing the fuel pump, set it to 1.05mm. Common setting is 0.90 to 0.95mm but 1.05mm performs better and is acceptable according to the Bentley and the community here.
  
  * Upgrade exhaust. 2 1/4" or 2 1/2" diameter all the way from turbo to tip.
  
  * Intercooler.
  
  * Boost gauge.
  
  * GTD Injectors.
  
  * Raise boost. You'll need to adjust fueling on the pump so that the turbo can get enough energy to meet your boost demand, quicker too.
  
  Have you considered a EGT gauge? I know you want to tune the TD only modestly but if the engine is going to be out of the car it'll be very easy to get that manifold drilled for a thermocouple. You can drill into the manifold, safely remove metal shavings inside, and then plug it for now. This is a 5 cent job and would save the hassle for later. You never know if your dad wants more power later. I think most thermocouples use 1/8" NPT threading.
  
  If no EGT gauge, then I suppose you will keep the visible exhaust smoke very light. In my opinion the K14 turbo boost shouldn't exceed 14 to 16 PSI, and K24 or T3 16 to 18 PSI. With an EGT gauge you can tune it a little more...
• #3 by dubCanuck1 on 08 Nov, 2005 11:28
• Thanks for the post Mark. The car does have a tach. I guess if I give it longer legs with the governor mod, I'd have to get a new tach or recalibrate (if possible).
  
  I'll make a point to do the EGT guage while the engine's on the stand (I should probably put one on my engine while it's out too). I like doing mods that allow you to monitor your car's behaviour and health, so I'll make the executive decision on that one (considering I'm the car's caretaker).
  
  I'm assuming setting the pump to 1.05 will be sufficient to run more boost?
  
  Would there be benefit in getting a G-Tech unit? I have 3 diesel cars and 4 diesel engines :lol: . Is this solely for performance measurement or does it help with diagnostics too?
  
  And lastly, I'm going to be shopping for the intercooler for a while I think. What's a good one to run that won't cause me headaches. You're running an air/water one, aren't you? How's that working? Would you recommend using one?
  
  Muchly appreciated, once again.
• #4 by malone on 08 Nov, 2005 12:18
• I would not recommend an air/water intercooler. It's expensive if you want it to work efficiently and it's more complicated than an air/air. I don't mind personally because I'd like to tinker with it and I think it can be made reliable as it's a relatively simple system. It gets a little tight in the engine bay though!
  
  I still have a FMIC (Front-Mounted Intercooler) on the shelf that we're considering installing because I would otherwise need to purchase a proper a/w intercooler pump that may cost around $400 USD, and my budget's pretty tight now. Soon I'm going to see how efficient the a/w is for short and occasional bursts by using a regular fuel pump from a gas MK2 (to circulate the water). If that WON'T perform well for until the day I can buy a proper water pump, then FMIC it is. a/w later for another diesel project.
  
  For almost all applications an air/air is more than good enough. You can pick up a used TDI intercooler from a MK3 or MK4 at a yard if it's cheap. I don't know of any other junkyard intercoolers in particular that are cheap and efficient. Perhaps someone else can chime in on this.
  
  No need for an alternative tach. By the time the OEM tach needle stops moving past 4,500 RPM, there isn't much power to be had. That's just in my experience though, others' may differ. The governor mod really improves performance from approximately 2,800 and up. To remain in the peak powerband you'd shift around 4.5k RPM. The OEM tach is safe especially if the governor mod's mild.
  
  I like the Gtech because I test a lot of cars with it. It's most useful for comparing before/after modifications. The 1.8L 8v gas vs. 1.6TD difference on the first page of my Gtech #2 thread is the finest example. The GTech also works well as a tach and shift-light. On its LCD display it draws the engine redline you set, so 4,500 RPM redline + shift light is no problem. I have a Gtech RR but the Gtech Competition from ebay.com may be a more economical choice. I don't know all the features it lacks that Gtech RR has though. When my 1.6TD is "fully tuned" my Gtech RR will likely go back on the shelf for some time, except for some TDI customers who request it. It's not always gonna be used constantly.
  
  The EGT gauge is quite expensive so it may not be worth getting if you're really only going to tune the car moderately. But you can still drill in the manifold and plug it just in case. Or plug it with a thermocouple only and buy a EGT gauge separately later. I agree it's nice to watch the car's health though.
• #5 by dubCanuck1 on 08 Nov, 2005 15:08
• So I just got off the phone with Concept1. They have the gauge (just the gauge) for $195 CDN. Where would I find the sensor and how much would it cost?
• #6 by Rat407 on 08 Nov, 2005 15:32
• Don't forget to open up that exhaust. It made a huge difference on my 91 Jetta TD. I put a 2.5" from the turbo on back.
  
  Also here is a good EGT gage, http://www.dieselpage.com/issev1.htm
• #7 by malone on 08 Nov, 2005 15:42
• Quote from: "Rat407"

  Don't forget to open up that exhaust. It made a huge difference on my 91 Jetta TD. I put a 2.5" from the turbo on back.
  
  Also here is a good EGT gage, http://www.dieselpage.com/issev1.htm

  
  
  I've seen that gauge in action (0-1,800F reading, pre-turbo) and would recommend it too. If I were to buy a EGT gauge again I would choose that instead of the Autometer I have.
  
  My silver Autometer pyrometer kit (EGT) complete with thermocouple from Lordco cost about $200 CAD (regular price).
  
  Ditto on the exhaust.. Passenger Performance sells TD downpipes (I don't know of any other vendor that sells TD downpipes) and getting the rest of the exhaust done (end of downpipe to the tip) won't be expensive if you or a friend can cut & weld.
• #8 by dubCanuck1 on 08 Nov, 2005 19:15
• Quote

  Ditto on the exhaust.. Passenger Performance sells TD downpipes (I don't know of any other vendor that sells TD downpipes) and getting the rest of the exhaust done (end of downpipe to the tip) won't be expensive if you or a friend can cut & weld.

  
  
  Yeah, I was looking at those. I may just have to get one. I'd say that's down the road a little though.
• #9 by Baxter on 09 Nov, 2005 15:49
• Anyone know of a metric pyrometer?
  I wasn't taught Farenheit at school! it confuses the hell out of me!
• #10 by vwmike on 09 Nov, 2005 16:19
• Quote from: "Mr Brick-Yard"

  Anyone know of a metric pyrometer?
  I wasn't taught Farenheit at school! it confuses the hell out of me!

  
  
  hehe, I'm the same way about celcius....but I hate inches...go figure.
• #11 by VWRacer on 09 Nov, 2005 16:30
• My Longacres pyrometer has a switch at the top to select between metric and English.
• #12 by malone on 09 Nov, 2005 17:05
• I would like a metric pyrometer too, I've thought about it for a while. Same goes for Bar instead of PSI in a boost gauge. And celsius instead of fahrenheit for fluid temperatures.
  
  Greddy gauges are all metric I believe, but they're expensive. They do have nice integrated warning lights though (even in 2 1/12" gauges). When I have loads of $ I'll probably swap out all my Autometer gauges for Greddy or a metric gauge set.
• #13 by Master ACiD on 09 Nov, 2005 17:10
• i would like a metric instrument cluster and gauges too.
  
  i dont use the american system of measurment anymore. its terribly old fashoned.
• #14 by g-spec on 11 Nov, 2005 15:54
• Audi 5000 turbo has a nice intercooler and i heard its very efficient!!!