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Need info on rebuilding turbo on 1.9L TD by Inspiron on 05 Nov, 2005 19:03
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Hi all, I have turbo that I took a part today. Now I need rebuilt kit for it. Can someone tell me where can I get one close to Toronto if not anywhere else. Also would like to know what I have to watch for when putting it together since I didn't mark anything while taking it a part, so if someone can fefer to some good site with more information about it would be greatly appreciated.
Sticker on Turbo says;
Garrgett T2
vw p/n 028145703B
there are also some more numbers that I have no idea what they mean
465577-1 and VL4204F
Would like to know what these numbers mean too.
Thank you -
#1 by QuickTD on 05 Nov, 2005 20:11
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Most T2 turbo's were balanced as assembled units on special production balancing rigs. The balancing corrections are made by grinding the compressor nut. If the turbo is dissasembled it must be rebalanced using a new compressor nut. ADP distributers can supply the rebuild kit and can also rebalance the rotating assembly for you. Their prices are reasonable from what I've heard. Their website is:
http://adpdistributors.com/ -
#2 by fspGTD on 07 Nov, 2005 12:40
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I carry high quality turbo rebuild and upgrade parts for VW Turbodiesels. I found my competitors customer service is usually lacking, and their generic kits also often won't fit our turbos correctly.
I can put together a correct fitting rebuild kit for your 1.9lTD Garrett application for $80 US, plus $8 for shipping. I also have as an upgrade option a "gapless" turbine-end sealing ring for an additional $25. It will make for a more reliable seal between the oil-lubricated bearing area of your turbo and the hot, pressurized, and sooty exhaust gass environment than the stock sealing ring, which has a gap. Shipping would take about 2 weeks, and I accept paypal. Send me an E-mail or IM if you are interested!
Included with my VW Diesel turbo rebuild kits are step-by-step instructions to walk the do-it-yourselfer through their own turbo rebuild. I recommend marking the orientation of the compressor and turbine wheels before disassembly. However, some turbos have orientation marks on the compressor and turbine wheels you can line up during re-assembly to restore the proper orientation. :wink:
For your turbo, you correctly recognized the VW part numer, and the 465577-1 is the turbo manufacturer's (Garrett's) part number. The other number you found I am guessing is the serial number for your turbo. Hope this helps...[/url] -
#3 by Inspiron on 07 Nov, 2005 16:12
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Thank you for the information fspGTD. You have PM.
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#4 by fspGTD on 01 Feb, 2006 13:44
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On any turbo application that has a ground-to-balance compressor nut, I recommend re-using the original compressor nut. When torqued and strained to the original and correct value, it should be installed in the original position, so the rotating assembly will maintain its original balance. Although I include a new compressor nut with my kits for the sake of completeness, it is not strictly necessary that they be replaced since they are not a "wearing" item like the bearings and seals are. Just clean their threads of any old oil and threadlocker residue so the new threadlocker compound will cure and stick properly, and re-use without problem.
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#5 by 935racer on 01 Feb, 2006 14:03
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I have never, ever, seen a turbo that could have gotten away with just a bearing rebuild. Example, I just got a turbo rebuilt (k24) the core was seemed pretty decent still spun good shaft play was outa spec, took it apart and the bearing housing was outa spec (I find they are about 80% of the time), the compressor wheel needed to be replaced and the shaft needed to be polished and balanced (always, no exceptions to that one). I used to rebuild turbos myself but after the first few it became pretty obvious that I was never gonan eb able to balance the shaft or get a decent price on new bearing housing or a wheel etc. All my turbos get rebuilt by ADP now, great prices and you kow its gonna be rock solid and reliable. fspgtds kits are a good price, get one and than take it to a turbo rebuilder to get it spec'd and balanced.
ITs kind of liek building a high revving motor, you wouldn't try to balnce the bottom end would you? Knife edge the crank? Theres special equipment for that stuff that most people cannot afford. -
#6 by fspGTD on 01 Feb, 2006 15:35
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Although I can provide oversize bearings and other "major turbo parts" as needed and on request, the primary intended use for my Dieselicious turbo upgrade/rebuild kit is preventative maintenance.
I do not advocate the strategy of "waiting for a wheel to hit a wall" or for some other major failure before rebuilding. By instead regularly replacing your turbocharger's bearings and seals every 100k miles or so, you will help keep your turbo performing reliably for many more miles to come, and will considerably extend it's useful life.
By replacing old worn, soft bearings (frequently made using brass!) with fresh new parts routinely, the shaft play will in fact become drastically reduced. This is because the bearings are designed to be sacrificial and take the bulk of the wear in a healthy turbocharger. The shaft (stainless steel) and housing bore surfaces (often high nickel cast iron/stainless) are considerably harder, and thus much slower to wear.
Keeping the rotating assembly tight by routine replacement of the bearings makes the seals work much more effectively. The turbine side seal in particular plays a very important role of keeping the hot, sooty, pre-turbine pressurized exhaust gasses away from the bearing area. When shaft play becomes excessive and/or the seal get worn, the pre-turbine exhaust gas blows past the seals and bearings, depositing abraisive soot/coke in the area and increasing the operaring temperatures, drastically increasing the rate of wear and causing a vicious cycle.
Turbocharger rotating assemblies, like crankshafts, do not need to be rebalanced unless they are machined. IMO, it is not a good idea to grind the shaft unless it is excessively worn, because of the added cost and complexity of the labor to do the grinding and rebalancing, and also the important fact that smaller diameter shafts are structurally weaker, allowing the rotating assemblies to vibrate more. Needlessly oversizing the bearings of a turbocharger cuts short the turbo's ultimately usable lifespan. Often the rotating assembly and bearing housing can only be oversized once before no more oversizes are available, at which point the turbo's becomes a paperweight.
By rebuilding a turbocharger themself, a do-it-yourselfer can save hundreds of dollars even if it is necessary to hire a professional to do shaft grinding and balancing. Not to mention by doing it oneself, care can be taken doing things a professional will skip, like cleaning the wastegate's valve guides to reduce friction and hand-lapping your wastegate valve into its seat (on some internally wastegated turbo applications) to restore like-new wastegate performance. -
#7 by samuraikid on 01 Feb, 2006 16:29
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well i did the same thing to my kkk turbo.. just kinda ripped it apart thinking it would be no big deal to rebuild. and didnt really pay any spechial attention as to where the turbine wheels alinged.. so u guys are saying that if i get a rebuild kit and slap it all back together that im gonna end up with a very short lifed turbo? or can i get away with it?
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#8 by fspGTD on 01 Feb, 2006 16:54
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I IM'ed you about one of my kits. If you are able to tear the turbo down yourself and have an inch-pounds torque wrench, you can rebuild it!
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#9 by 935racer on 02 Feb, 2006 10:14
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Actually the shaft does need to be rebalanced regardless of wether it was machined or not. After lots of abuse the smallest bit of wear on a wheel will throw the shaft out of balance, and than it needs to be balanced and polished. My buddy who rebuilds turbos for a living says you get about one shaft in spec per 100 at best. Those are poor odds to say the least.