Hello to all, I'm quite new to this forum and absolutely love it ! I own 2 caddy 1.6L n/a diesels.After some time,I'm finally getting around to working on them. I haven't worked on these engines in about 20 years !
I purchased one about 6 months ago-NOT running-clean body- original owner- He swears it has under 100K ,but odometer doesn't work-so I'm unsure of true milage.
He said he drove it into a tent garage,for the winter and in the spring it was a no start.
After cleaning starter connections and a new battery,I got it to crank good.
I installed a new air filter and fuel filter and bled the filter,filled the IP (was empty),cranked until I got fuel spritzing,with lines loose at the injectors.
I tightened the injector lines,turned the key and it instantl started and stalled (ran about 2-3 seconds) It did this repeatedly,but wouldn't stay running.
I pushed down accelerator pedal andf the same thig happens. Eventually it did start,but would only run at high RPM (above 3000RPM ??) Lowering RPM,results in bad stumbeling and stall.
I went over the basics and do still own most of the VW tools.
I replaced the glow plugs (originals were good though) and do have power to them and they work. I installed new injectors ( prior owner gave me with the truck)
I did a compression test,dry and wet.I think my comp gauge is bad from sitting all those years (Or I sure hope its bad)
cyl 1 2 3 4
270 275 300 295 DRY (average of 3 readings each cyl)
300 300 320 310 WET ( " " " " " " " " )
I know these are far below the spec-but the readings didn't go up too much,with oil in the cyls. ( I added a good teaspoon of oil to each cyl, let it sit 5 minutes,then spun the engine over for 15-30 seconds )
I then proceeded to pump shop air into each cyl,to" listen" for comp leakage. No leakage from the valves and minimal through crankcase at approx 100PSI shop air..
At this point I'm beginning to think my Compression gauge might be bad.No one locally had a New one,to double check. My gauge is a SnapOn 500PSI- but 20 years old.
When unable to get another gauge for this weekend, I figured- lets continue-hope for the best-and see what happens.
I had previously purchased a new timing belt and tensioner- so lets install it and check the timing.
I found that the belt --------"was off by 1 or 2 teeth"-------
After locking the back of the cam,the IP lock pin hole was off a little and pin wouldn't go in.
The crankshaft TDC mark on flywheel,was way off and not even visable through the hole.
Ahhhhh---maybe this was the problem !
To be honest- I never thought it was a compression issue,because the engine would instantly kick and start-then stall-with only a tap of the key---and lets remember -it wanted to run at high RPM
So I proceeded with timing belt installation-started to install and found that the auto parts store sold me the wrong belt- New belt was Too short and too narrow-probably for a gasser. So I couldn't complete the install today- will ahve to order another belt and tensioner kit (I used Beck Arnley- I hope they are still good-they were 20 years ago??)
So--after all this, blah-blah,blah
My question is--" will the timing belt being off 1 or 2 teeth,result in lower compression readings,like I displayed
??
I welcome your thoughts and opions.
Agian, I bought this vechicle-not running.
Thanks in advance,Mike