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Ecodiesel coolant temp
by
92EcoDiesel Jetta
on 18 Jun, 2009 12:01
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This is where my 92 Ecodiesel temp gauge sits on the highway doing 65 mph. I calibrated the gauge (in boiling water with an ohmeter and thermeter) and at the position of the needle in the pic, the coolant temp is a little above 212 F. I measured 84 ohms in a pot of boiling water when I calibrated it. Iit measured 79 ohms in the car (lower is hotter).
I am curious where your coolant temp gauge sits in your Ecodiesel and if you can, measure the resistance of your sender. It's easy if you have a DVM, After getting the car up to steady temp, pull the connector on the sender (the one on top of the flange) and measure the sender resistance.
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#1
by
arb
on 18 Jun, 2009 12:22
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what thermostat do you have ? Have you calibrated it on the stove too ? Sounds a bit hot to me.
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#2
by
zukgod1
on 18 Jun, 2009 12:33
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Too hot dude.
Like asked above, what thermostat do you have in it?
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#3
by
92EcoDiesel Jetta
on 18 Jun, 2009 12:55
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I have not checked the thermostat yet since it's such a PITA to get to. I will do so when I do the timing belt/tensioner/water pump. I also will put in a new thermostat which I will also test in hot water before installation.
While we're on the subject of temperature? What should the cyl head temp be? Oil temp?
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#4
by
Rabbit TD
on 18 Jun, 2009 19:40
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I can't say right now what the actual resistance is but that looks way hot to me
I have an autometer temp gauge tee'd in the same place as the stock one and it reads pretty close to 210 on the autometer with the needle right in the middle of the stock gauge and I;m running a 180 thermostat {German} and I've had no luck with the Autozone ones. I run around 175-185 cruising when it's 75 or less outside on the flat at 75 mph with a fully cleaned [cooked radiator and block} with a good 180 thermostat. It will climb to 210 on a mountain pull at 70 mph with 7 lbs boost and the factory gauge reads right in the middle just llike it did on the other engine. That needle scares me, I'd hate to see it at 95 degrees outside on a mountain or idling in stop & go traffic, does your automatic fan come on at that position on the gauge? But You really have to verify it with another gauge too even if you don't want it mounted just for a check wheather your's has been calibrated or not and just try another sender also they are pretty cheap anyway and get a 180 thermostat also. It doesn't take long for the temps to climb if it's already at 195 to begin with. As easy as it is to screw these things up from too much heat plus boost on top of it I wouldn't take any more chances unless you know what it's reading for sure one way or another.
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#5
by
92EcoDiesel Jetta
on 18 Jun, 2009 20:11
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I can't say right now what the actual resistance is but that looks way hot to me I have an autometer temp gauge tee'd in the same place as the stock one and it reads pretty close to 210 on the autometer with the needle right in the middle of the stock gauge and I;m running a 180 thermostat {German} and I've had no luck with the Autozone ones. I run around 175-185 cruising when it's 75 or less outside on the flat at 75 mph with a fully cleaned [cooked radiator and block} with a good 180 thermostat. It will climb to 210 on a mountain pull at 70 mph with 7 lbs boost and the factory gauge reads right in the middle just llike it did on the other engine. That needle scares me, I'd hate to see it at 95 degrees outside on a mountain or idling in stop & go traffic, does your automatic fan come on at that position on the gauge? But You really have to verify it with another gauge too even if you don't want it mounted just for a check wheather your's has been calibrated or not and just try another sender also they are pretty cheap anyway and get a 180 thermostat also. It doesn't take long for the temps to climb if it's already at 195 to begin with. As easy as it is to screw these things up from too much heat plus boost on top of it I wouldn't take any more chances unless you know what it's reading for sure one way or another.
Maybe I have the wrong sender in mine which is making the stock gauge read higher than it should? That's why I'd like to know what the resistance reading is on yours at a given needle position and temperature.
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#6
by
maxfax
on 19 Jun, 2009 04:30
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Good chance that that gauge itself could be whacked.. Old factory electric gauges aren;t the most precise critters.. The majority of them work as well as an idiot light, enought to tell you when it's too late, but not enough to have you at the dealer for warrenty claims... Get an aftermarket gauge on there then you are sure...
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#7
by
arb
on 19 Jun, 2009 04:58
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I can't say right now what the actual resistance is but that looks way hot to me I have an autometer temp gauge tee'd in the same place as the stock one and it reads pretty close to 210 on the autometer with the needle right in the middle of the stock gauge and I;m running a 180 thermostat {German} and I've had no luck with the Autozone ones.
What type of problems have you had ? I'm about to put one on my project and I was thinking the 195 degrees was a bit high even with my turbo.
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#8
by
maxfax
on 19 Jun, 2009 05:52
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I was thinking the 195 degrees was a bit high even with my turbo.
What temp T-Stat you running??? My N/A Runs sligtly below the middle or 200 deg most of the time... On a hot day going up a mountain it has crept up to 210 but never goes higher, and drops back to 200 once the load is off... Diesel engines like it a bit hot anyhow so 195 - 215 shouldn;t be too bad... Heck most vehicles now days (gas or diesel) can get up to 225 before the fans cycle...
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#9
by
92EcoDiesel Jetta
on 19 Jun, 2009 08:26
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Most OEM coolant temp gauges I've seen has a red mark danger zone. My EcoDiesel does not! Is there an overheat warning light? If so, where is it and where is the sender for it? I can really use an owners manual for a 92 EcoDiesel. Anyone have an extra one they can part with?
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#10
by
92EcoDiesel Jetta
on 20 Jun, 2009 14:18
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I took out the old Wahler T stat,(87 C), tested it in hot water and it did not open after 3 min in boiling water. My new Wahler 92 C T-stat (in the same pot) opened before it boiled. The old stat differs from the new one in that it has a rubber seat on the part of the T stat that moves so its a rubber to metal seal. The new T-stat has no rubber seat so it's a metal to metal seal. I used a screw driver to push on the old T-stat all around and was able to make it move, un-sticking it (if it was stick), and put in boiling water again but it still would not open. My guess is that it probably does open at a higher temp than 212F? otherwise I would have overheated my engine?
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#11
by
burn_your_money
on 20 Jun, 2009 14:31
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Also check what temp it closes at.
If your thermostat doesn't have a small hole in it, drill one. 1/8" is good.
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#12
by
92EcoDiesel Jetta
on 20 Jun, 2009 14:33
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There was a gasket between the old T-stat and the water pump housing. The new T-stat came with a flat gasket as well as an o-ring. However, fig 4-8 in the cooling system section of the Bently does not show a gasket between T-stat and water pump housing, only an o-ring between the plastic flange and the T-stat. Is the Bently right or wrong?
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#13
by
Vincent Waldon
on 20 Jun, 2009 14:37
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The T-stat fits a number of generic applications, some of which need the flat gasket.
Your application just uses the o-ring.
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#14
by
92EcoDiesel Jetta
on 20 Jun, 2009 15:24
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Vince, are you absolutely postively 100% sure that there should be no gasket between T-stat and WP housing? It looks like there is a pretty deep recess into the alu.minum WP housing and the T-stat would be floating around in there wothout the gasket.
What's the deal with the spring hose clamps? Is there a special tool? I use a vise grip on them and the tang on the spring clamp is butting agains the clamp itself preventing it from opening further.so that I can't move the clamp over the bead on the flange to free the hose. It seems that tang has to be lifted above the clamp for it to fully open. Another PITA!