crunch going from 1st to 2nd - page 2 - IDI Engine - VWDiesel.net The IDI, TDI, and mTDI source.

• #15 by Jay on 16 Jun, 2009 13:18
• Not many of those dealers here. I'll also have to continue holding it just before 2nd for a 1/2 second then fully engage 2nd as this 'reduces' crunching.
  
• #16 by stewardc on 16 Jun, 2009 13:21
• I can ship it cross the pond if you want.
• #17 by 92EcoDiesel Jetta on 16 Jun, 2009 14:10
• stewardc, can you verify the GM p/n 12377916  for the GM synchromesh transmission fluid ?
• #18 by Rabbit TD on 16 Jun, 2009 16:56
• I ffeel the only way to fix a worn synchronizer problem is with a new one.  I've used Royal Purple and Amsoil MTL in these 020's and the standard 90wt. GL4.  If the gear crunched a little an oil change never helped or made it worse either but the synthetics do really make them shift good if there are no other problems.  But if you have a high mileage trans that's never had new seals put in it's almost guaranteed to leak as the synthetc is so much thinner.   If you have one that leaks pretty bad after you put in a synthetic and do a lot of high speed highway driving and don't check the level often to keep it full you are almost guaranteed to have 5th gear go out and eat the pinion gear also.  Been there, done that.  And it's all on Broke VW's website exactly like he says.  It's a good place to visit if you decide to pull the trans apart.  I'd still like to know what synchro rings are made of if it's not brass anymore, aluminum?
• #19 by jtanguay on 16 Jun, 2009 17:04
• Quote from: Rabbit TD on 16 Jun, 2009 16:56

  I ffeel the only way to fix a worn synchronizer problem is with a new one.  I've used Royal Purple and Amsoil MTL in these 020's and the standard 90wt. GL4.  If the gear crunched a little an oil change never helped or made it worse either but the synthetics do really make them shift good if there are no other problems.  But if you have a high mileage trans that's never had new seals put in it's almost guaranteed to leak as the synthetc is so much thinner.   If you have one that leaks pretty bad after you put in a synthetic and do a lot of high speed highway driving and don't check the level often to keep it full you are almost guaranteed to have 5th gear go out and eat the pinion gear also.  Been there, done that.  And it's all on Broke VW's website exactly like he says.  It's a good place to visit if you decide to pull the trans apart.  I'd still like to know what synchro rings are made of if it's not brass anymore, aluminum?
  

  
  the synchro's are made out of brass iirc.  heat is the number one killer.  for racing, most guys take out the synchro's as can free up about a couple ponies (no joke) from the extra spinning gears.  just shift like they do hehe    and might as well just rip all the synchro's up, and drive it like a pro  
  
  me personally i like the idea of lubro moly (liqui moly?) with its moly additive for reduced friction.  every little bit helps    i wonder what gm synchromesh has in it help worn synchro's get friction.  can't be good for the rest of the transmission?  i don't personally trust anything with the name GM in it... 
• #20 by Rabbit TD on 16 Jun, 2009 18:19
• Quote from: jtanguay on 16 Jun, 2009 17:04

  Quote from: Rabbit TD on 16 Jun, 2009 16:56

  I ffeel the only way to fix a worn synchronizer problem is with a new one.  I've used Royal Purple and Amsoil MTL in these 020's and the standard 90wt. GL4.  If the gear crunched a little an oil change never helped or made it worse either but the synthetics do really make them shift good if there are no other problems.  But if you have a high mileage trans that's never had new seals put in it's almost guaranteed to leak as the synthetc is so much thinner.   If you have one that leaks pretty bad after you put in a synthetic and do a lot of high speed highway driving and don't check the level often to keep it full you are almost guaranteed to have 5th gear go out and eat the pinion gear also.  Been there, done that.  And it's all on Broke VW's website exactly like he says.  It's a good place to visit if you decide to pull the trans apart.  I'd still like to know what synchro rings are made of if it's not brass anymore, aluminum?
  

  
  the synchro's are made out of brass iirc.  heat is the number one killer.  for racing, most guys take out the synchro's as can free up about a couple ponies (no joke) from the extra spinning gears.  just shift like they do hehe    and might as well just rip all the synchro's up, and drive it like a pro  
  
  me personally i like the idea of lubro moly (liqui moly?) with its moly additive for reduced friction.  every little bit helps    i wonder what gm synchromesh has in it help worn synchro's get friction.  can't be good for the rest of the transmission?  i don't personally trust anything with the name GM in it...  ::)o
  

  Yes I know all synchro rings I've ever seen are brass.  The thing I don't understand is that there is so much information out there even from Redline and Amsoil that GL5 in a car with brass synchros is supposed to be corrosive to the synchros.  If that is true, which there must be something to it or Redline and Amsoil wouldn't refer to it either, then what are newer synchros made from?  If they are still made out of brass then what good is GL5 period   P.S. It's almost impossible to find GL4 in a parts store anymore today too.
• #21 by jtanguay on 16 Jun, 2009 20:26
• i came across a thread from TDIclub.com and bleached bora said that GL5 is fine for use on the newer style transmissions, but there are some older ones that won't work.  amid the confusion i seem to recall that if you have a 1996+ transmission (non green case housing), the GL5 is fine.
  
  https://www.boraparts.com/product_info.php?cPath=67_69&products_id=50
  
  lubro moly is the best gear oil to use.
• #22 by 92EcoDiesel Jetta on 18 Aug, 2009 18:22
• I put in Redline MTL a few weeks ago and it really helped with the crunch. As long as I don't speed shift from 1st to 2nd, it does not crunch anymore like it used to.
• #23 by Rabbit on Roids on 19 Aug, 2009 09:39
• GM synchromesh fluid isnt going to be bad for an 020. what materians do you think a chevy trans's are made from? the same thing vw trannies have in them. brass synchros, aluminum case, steel gears and bearings.
• #24 by 92EcoDiesel Jetta on 19 Aug, 2009 10:01
• ROR, anything is better than what was in there. It was cruching bad! I just happened to have 2 quarts of roughly 10 year old Redline MTL laying around so I put that in to see what it'd do. It did gooood. lol
• #25 by Matteo on 19 Aug, 2009 11:03
• I believe Penzoil Syncromesh is the same stuff in a different bottle from the GM Synchromesh. Autozone about $6 US per litre.
• #26 by Quantum TD on 19 Aug, 2009 15:43
• X2 on the Mobil 1 insights by Andrew.
  
  I've had crunchers before, and I though the synthetic would help. It made it worse.
  
  Regarding Synchromesh: I've tried it. I wouldn't say it's a miracle cure, but it does make the crunching less pronounced. If you speed-shift, you'll still hear/feel it.
  
  I only really notice the crunching in the winter time. I think if you get it in warm weather, your synchros are really toasted. I just pause a milisecond before shifting when the car is cold. No grinding. Once the car warms up, the grinding disappears.
  
  As far as long-term results on the sunchromesh: I sold a car to a guy about 1.5 years ago. I put in the synchromesh about 5 months before I sold it. He's still driving it no problem.
  
  
• #27 by wil892 on 20 Aug, 2009 02:46
• I have the crunch from 1st to 2nd on my 020. I'm looking into getting thr GM fluid, however you all say that you get crunches when the box is cold.
  In my case second seems to slip in easier when cold then when its hot its definately eaier to crunch. I always hold it for a second or so before I put the gear in but on steep hills this can be a problem if I have stopped.
• #28 by Rabbit on Roids on 20 Aug, 2009 11:11
• ok, so, the oil on the syncro is what makes the friction to slow the syncro. if your oil isnt thick enough, it wont slow the syncro enough, causing a crunch. put thicker gear oil in it. or just change it first and see if it fixes anything. thicker oil has helped alot of my friends out who have questionable transmissions. but i think the syncromesh fluid is your best bet.
• #29 by smutts on 20 Aug, 2009 14:07
• Redline MTL worked well, Castrol also do a synthetic gear lube, SMX-S which is what I use at the moment. Both are GL4, the sulphur in GL5 will shag the brass in the gearbox. It is definately worth trying different oil.  Slower shifting won't harm either.