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Burnin used motor oil -N- Stuff Again..
by
maxfax
on 14 Jun, 2009 23:46
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Since my engine is pretty much crap right now as the block is cracked and oil is going everywhere it shouldn't I've decided to start abusing it, moreso than usual.. My new engine should be done at the machine shop sometime this week...
Last week I did 50/50 WVO and waste motor oil.. I chose to use oil drained from customers cars that generally do pretty easy highway driving.. Basically it's about as clean as it's gonna get for WMO.. I dumped the WVO and the WMO in the filtration/dewatering setup and filtered it all together at the same time to 3 microns.. I've got rougly 900 miles on it so far.. This week I think I'm gonna bump up to 75% WMO (possibly with some trans fluid in there too)..
THe only thing noticably different was the exhaust smell.. Definitely doesn;t smell as nice as the burning WVO... I'll keep you all posted on what breaks.....
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#1
by
8v-of-fury
on 15 Jun, 2009 06:30
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Yeah i've read quite a bit about burning WMO. Keep increasing bit by bit, do you think it will run on %100 WMO? (or maybe a 95/5.. WMO/ATF?) Motor Oil is supposed to have much higher BTU's then Diesel, as it is a heavier fuel.
Sounds like you got it made in the shade
Keep it up man, I am excited and anxious to hear how it goes.
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#2
by
RabbitJockey
on 15 Jun, 2009 17:07
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some body reported on here that running large amounts of transmission fluid was wearing down his injector lines
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#3
by
maxfax
on 16 Jun, 2009 20:25
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I could see how prolonged ATF usage could cause issues.. The detergents probably take their toll on things over time.. I have to do some more reading, but apparently used ATF has some interesting properties of it's own.. I know there is alot of talk about just that over on CrownVic net when people bring up switiching from Dextron to Mercon V.. Apparently the residual used Dextron left in the trans doesn;t react so nicely with Mercon V.. I guess time will tell on that too as I filled my Vic with Mercon V at it's last trans service...
I have 75% WMO in the Bunny right now.. Still not noticing much difference versus the straight WVO.. Possibly a bit more smoke but I can;t verify that for sure till I have someone follow me... The butt dyno detected no difference..
I suspect the metal particals that the filters won;t catch will be the down fall of either the pump and/or the injectors... THe hardest thing is getting enough reasonably clean WMO.. Tractors are good for a few gallons, but it's also pretty nasty stuff.. It plugs the filters in the filtration machine PDQ.. The 100 mile a day commuter cars are the best source at the moment..
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#4
by
jtanguay
on 16 Jun, 2009 20:29
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if you're running WMO then have it centrifuge filtered. a lot of crap will be removed and your injection pump/injectors will thank you (by giving you many km's of smooth sailing)
heating the fuel filter will also help during the cool nights/mornings as well, but not required if in a 50/50 mix. i bet you could get away with an 80/20 mix, but thats kinda risky.
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#5
by
maxfax
on 16 Jun, 2009 21:48
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I'd like to have a centrifuge filtration for the WVO at least, just hasn;t fit into the time and money budget yet.. I will have one before I start dumping crap to the new engine.. I'm not sure if the new engine will ever see WMO, just have to see how it goes on the crap engine first...
I should clarify that I'm mixing the WMO with WVO and not diesel.. I have a two tank rig and have been dumping it in the heated secondary fuel system.. Unfortunaly on this car it never sees alternate fuel in cold weather.. After 2 years of hair pulling the engine itself still won;t warm up enough to safely burn it.. I suspect its from the additional components in the cooling system for the WVO that aren;t controlled by the thermostat.. I have a valve to stop coomant flow to the second tank and heat exchangers and the engine temp will come up to normal.. OPen it up and it drops again...
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#6
by
Jettage1
on 17 Jun, 2009 04:50
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I have a Frybrid system - it takes longer in winter (4 miles or so) but eventually does get up to temp & switch over to VO. If you want more info on how that's plumbed let me know. Also check out the forum at
www.frybrid.com/forum.
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#7
by
arb
on 17 Jun, 2009 05:26
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I could see how prolonged ATF usage could cause issues.. The detergents probably take their toll on things over time.. I have to do some more reading, but apparently used ATF has some interesting properties of it's own.. I know there is alot of talk about just that over on CrownVic net when people bring up switiching from Dextron to Mercon V.. Apparently the residual used Dextron left in the trans doesn;t react so nicely with Mercon V.. I guess time will tell on that too as I filled my Vic with Mercon V at it's last trans service...
My brother turns wrench at a dealership. He gets all the used ATF he can use. Currently, he runs it through a whole house water filter (3 micron) and burns it at about 50% with diesel / B15 - B05. What ever he feels like. He has a 3500 duely with the Cummins. He tried up to 100% ATF, but said the exhaust smelled to bad. He has a pre-2007 so no DPF. Even at 50%, he has cut his diesel price in half - $1.30 here in Michigan.
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#8
by
vwjones
on 17 Jun, 2009 05:54
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been running WMO in my rabbit pickup now for around 6000 miles. i run it through a remote oil filter with an powersteering pump being spun by an elecric motor. i have a two tank system and the oil is in the tank in the bed and i go to the filling station and fill the tank with one third diesel (off road, heh heh) and then flip a switch and the tank in the bed fills the main tank the rest of the way with motor oil via gravity through a fuel filter. It takes half an hour or so to filter through. It doesn't smoke, but it smells bad if you are behind me on the highway. I bought a GTD with a turbo and i think the added air will burn the oil more completely. the reason some vehicles won't work this way is that they have to be indirect injected like the older vw's, cummins, etc. btw. I tore down my old engine because one cyclinder finally gave up its rings and there was almost no compression. It was low on compression before the waste oil idea so that wasn't it. anyhoo, the engine looked good inside, and the injectors were clean too.
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#9
by
jtanguay
on 17 Jun, 2009 07:53
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with some of these elaborate filtering schemes, why doesn't everyone just go centrifuge? it's not too difficult to get a simple one built. all you need is a router and some welding skills. think of all the extra money you can save by not buying filters?
a pot will work. just need to drill the exact middle, and weld the bit that is able to lock into the router (mounted on a bench) and then get a rubber gasket for the lid, and cut an opening out. then all that needs to be done is build a plexiglass exterior to catch the oil. the area around the opening for the router's shaft has to be built up though so oil doesn't leak in there, and a drain tube to the clean oil tank. the oil can even be gravity fed!
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#10
by
arb
on 17 Jun, 2009 08:09
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with some of these elaborate filtering schemes, why doesn't everyone just go centrifuge? it's not too difficult to get a simple one built. all you need is a router and some welding skills. think of all the extra money you can save by not buying filters?
a pot will work. just need to drill the exact middle, and weld the bit that is able to lock into the router (mounted on a bench) and then get a rubber gasket for the lid, and cut an opening out. then all that needs to be done is build a plexiglass exterior to catch the oil. the area around the opening for the router's shaft has to be built up though so oil doesn't leak in there, and a drain tube to the clean oil tank. the oil can even be gravity fed!
Got any photos ? :-)
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#11
by
8v-of-fury
on 17 Jun, 2009 08:50
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Jon, you sound as though you may have stumbled on to a jackpot. Make some, Test them out, Distribute. REAP THE BENEFITS
So Mr. BigTalk.. why haven't you made one yet? lol if its so "EASY" loooooool
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#12
by
jtanguay
on 17 Jun, 2009 09:09
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Jon, you sound as though you may have stumbled on to a jackpot. Make some, Test them out, Distribute. REAP THE BENEFITS
So Mr. BigTalk.. why haven't you made one yet? lol if its so "EASY" loooooool
a friend made one. its easier said than done, but considering some of the elaborate filtering setups people have... only way to reap benefits is to mass produce em.
i'll have to take a stroll around princess auto to see if they have everything needed (which they most likely do) and weigh the cost. demand won't be so good unless these things are dirt cheap.
yet people don't mind spending $10 a filter that lasts maybe a week? while it takes maybe 5-10 minutes to scrape down the inside of the centrifuge, and it removes more crap!
btw when you put something in quotes like that, it makes it sound as if i said it was easy. i said it was not too difficult...
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#13
by
maxfax
on 17 Jun, 2009 14:38
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My elaborate filtering mechanism was a freebie.. It was some sort of machine used to recycle hydraulic oil.. All I had to do was put a heating element in the tank where you initially dump the oil in.. It stores 15 gallons of clean WVO and has a 20 foot hose that allows me to pump it into the car... Nice, compact, and on wheels! But the filters can get expensive..
I have a 275 gallon tank that I initially store the wvo in to allow crap to settle out.. Before I did this (aside from having 50 5 gallon jugs of WVO laying around) I had to change filters all the damn time.. Now I can get away with spending about $120 a year in filters... I wish I woudl have put a big dump valve on that first holding tank though.. Someday it will need cleaned...
AS far as a centrifuge, I been kinda holding out till someone gets tired of dealing with grease and dumps one cheap..
It doesn;t appear that hard to build one, but alot of things tend to look easy, and with this crappy economy business has been friggen booming, so time is short....
Jettage1, I loosley copied the frybrid setup on both my cars.. Here's what is odd, my first one worked absolutely fine year round, just a little more warm up time needed in the winter... My current car hs EXACTLY the same setup.. Same brand valves, heat exchangers, everything. It's just cold blooded.. I've even noticed without the extra plumbing that it always took longer for the engine to warm up..
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#14
by
jtanguay
on 17 Jun, 2009 15:35
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if you have good welding skills, i'd imagine that a simple centrifuge shouldn't cost more than $50. another friend of mine has made one out of wood, and pieces lying around. albeit not as efficient as a manufactured one, it still does the job.