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Leaking IP Pump
by
catlin_cava
on 27 Apr, 2009 13:16
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I was trying to set the idle on my AAZ and when I started the motor the pump starting leaking from the throttle spring :shock: see pictures
its leaking from the spring itself
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#1
by
Vincent Waldon
on 27 Apr, 2009 13:30
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That looks like the classic throttle o-ring leak... it can be repaired with the pump in the car by (carefully) removing the pump lid.
The only potential fly in the ointment is that a leaking o-ring can be a symptom of throttle bushing wear...I've seen situations where the wear wasn't apparent as long as only the throttle cable was pulling on the lever, but as soon as someone manipulated the throttle by hand, therefore stressing the bushing in a new way, the gods became angry and leakage ensued.
New bushings are available but there are several different lengths and you won't know which one you need until you have it apart.
The other clue... carefully mark the position of the throttle lever with respect to the throttle shaft before you pull it all apart. A quick sketch of how the springs go back together again doesn't hurt either!!
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#2
by
catlin_cava
on 27 Apr, 2009 17:48
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And while removing and replacing the springs, bear in mind that a single lever return spring would have been functionally the same. :lol:
What???
How do I remove the first spring is connected too?
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#3
by
Rabbit on Roids
on 27 Apr, 2009 22:56
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yea, i ran into this same problem today. just built a new injection pump for my car. finally got a real turbo pump and injectors.but now it pours fuel out the throttle shaft. never did this before.. the throttle shaft is a bit loose in the bushing, although not enough to make me think its the bushing causing the wear on the o-ring. it didnt leak when i had this pump top on another pump about 3 months ago. whats the chances its just dried up a little bit? slim to none? its not like its that hard to pull all that *** apart anyway.
also, i figured out why my car wouldnt time right..
the gasser flywheel i have on my car, has a big timing mark on it, but not in the right spot. so i looked at the original TD flywheel for a reference mark, and to my surprise, there was actually a tiny 0 marked on the flywheel after all. i had my cam and IP timed a tooth off. and it still ran pretty damn good too. but now it really runs good. ive got more boost than i know what to do with. 15 psi used to be full throttle.. now 15 psi is a little past half throttle. and if you go to full throttle, you blow the intercooler hose.
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#4
by
catlin_cava
on 28 Apr, 2009 07:00
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Its leaking from the shaft where is goes into the IP. How do I remove the shaft to replacec the Oring, also, the shafts got some play up and down on it.
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#5
by
Vincent Waldon
on 28 Apr, 2009 07:12
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it can be repaired with the pump in the car by (carefully) removing the pump lid
:wink:
You'll need to very carefully clean the entire pump and then remove the pump lid, pressing down on the throttle shaft as you remove the lid so that the shaft stays behind.
Before you do, however, how much wobble does the shaft now have... ie is the bushing going to require replacement as well?
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#6
by
catlin_cava
on 28 Apr, 2009 08:51
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removing that whole lid??? Is there anything going to fall out? :shock:
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#7
by
jtanguay
on 28 Apr, 2009 09:02
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removing that whole lid??? Is there anything going to fall out? :shock:
it can be repaired with the pump in the car by (carefully) removing the pump lid
:wink:
You'll need to very carefully clean the entire pump and then remove the pump lid, pressing down on the throttle shaft as you remove the lid so that the shaft stays behind.
Before you do, however, how much wobble does the shaft now have... ie is the bushing going to require replacement as well?
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#8
by
Rabbit on Roids
on 28 Apr, 2009 10:04
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my shaft doesnt wobble that much. at the end of the throttle arm, it wobbles about maybe a mm or 2 up and down. its not a gross amount of play, but it has some.
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#9
by
Rabbit on Roids
on 28 Apr, 2009 10:43
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so is my pump top destined to be rebuilt? or should i just throw a seal at it and hope it works? i wouldnt even know where to get a bushing for the throttle shaft..
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#10
by
burn_your_money
on 28 Apr, 2009 15:16
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You'll need to very carefully clean the entire pump
I'm going to throw this out there again, just in case :wink:
This is not easy on an AAZ, especially in the car. Best of luck to you. And yes, there is stuff that will fall out when you disconnect everything and remove the lid.
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#11
by
catlin_cava
on 28 Apr, 2009 15:23
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I don't think i'm going to try and fix it, I think i'm just going to replace the pump and get it fixed or sell it lol
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#12
by
catlin_cava
on 28 Apr, 2009 19:42
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How Hard is it to change the pump? i know i need to mark the timing, and the other pump has been sitting for a few months dry, should I soak it in some diesel before installing it?
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#13
by
vanbcguy
on 28 Apr, 2009 19:54
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I would say changing the o-ring on the throttle arm is probably less work than replacing the whole pump... Clean the outside of the pump with some carb cleaner or similar, undo 4 bolts, remove the top... Heck, while you're in there do the Governor Mod and set yourself up for some higher RPM power! Check the Governor Mod HOWTO and you'll get the works - how to open the pump, replace the o-ring and put it all back together again.
Not really any point in marking the timing if you're changing the pump. For all intents and purposes you're starting from scratch again anyhow. I'd follow Vince's Timing HOWTO (look in his sig)... Just set the motor to TDC before you pull the pump. If it were me I'd probably replace my timing belt at the same time if it hasn't been done in recent memory.
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#14
by
catlin_cava
on 28 Apr, 2009 20:01
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to fix the pump since there is a seized bolt i need to take pump off. and mines got 368,XXX on it and i'm getting a working one for 50bucks with 200,000 on it.