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differentials? by 8v-of-fury on 04 Feb, 2009 17:23
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ok guys a question for you. the differential that would be in a 1984 jetta with the 1.7 and 5 speed. Whats the deal with these POS? lol
I can lay rubber with two defined and even marks.. but in the snow or gravel or dirt or anything.. it seems only one tires spins?! why does it only spin one when there is no friction on the wheels such as snow.. but will lock them tight on dry pavement?! I hate it, it makes the car very irritable in the snow being a one wheel drive piece of ***! lol
Is this some sort of lame limited slip Bs? or what? is it faulty? whatever the problem is its stupid.
i am done tanting
whats the deal with these things?
thanks. -
#1 by blkboostedtruck on 04 Feb, 2009 17:41
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get a 80% peliquin diff kit! that will fix that!
problem is that least traction tire will spin! when your on black top your on equal gripping surface so both tires will spin at same time!
you understand now? or just come to wisconsin and eat our cheese!
Duane :wink: -
#2 by 8v-of-fury on 04 Feb, 2009 17:45
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im glad you gave it to me STRAIGHT! Any less !!! marks would have not doen the job and i would have killed an unsuspecting asian child.
Yes that makes alot of sense.. ***ty design.. oh wait that tires spinning lets transfer allll the power over to this tire so it spins as well! it will work. BS lol All the power all the time to both wheels is how it should always be on fwd cars. then who cares if one spins.. atleast there both spinning and getting you out of whatever ur in.
a 80% peliquin diff kit? what is this? like a wicked diff for a vw? lol care to elaborate friend? lol
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#3 by jtanguay on 04 Feb, 2009 17:46
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Quote from: "blkboostedtruck"
get a 80% peliquin diff kit! that will fix that!
problem is that least traction tire will spin! when your on black top your on equal gripping surface so both tires will spin at same time!
you understand now? or just come to wisconsin and eat our cheese!
Duane :wink:
2nd on the 80% kit (not too hard to install) and yummy cheese!!!
the 80% kit is pretty much just a shim...
http://www.peloquins.com/products_80.html -
#4 by 8v-of-fury on 04 Feb, 2009 17:52
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Quote
Please note: This kit is recommended for 020 transaxles with 100mm CV flanges, if you have 90mm CV's contact Gary for information.
I have 90 mm, does that mean i just ask the dude whats up and he tells me a certain thing then tells me which one to order? lol what is all involved in order to do this.. modification? it sounds too good to be true! full traction in the snow? unbelievable lol -
#5 by blkboostedtruck on 04 Feb, 2009 17:57
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Quote from: "8v-of-fury"Quote
Please note: This kit is recommended for 020 transaxles with 100mm CV flanges, if you have 90mm CV's contact Gary for information.
I have 90 mm, does that mean i just ask the dude whats up and he tells me a certain thing then tells me which one to order? lol what is all involved in order to do this.. modification? it sounds too good to be true! full traction in the snow? unbelievable lol
yep i guess it's that simple? i never ordered one but if you do let us know how easy it is!
it's all how you cut the cheese man! :shock:
Duane -
#6 by 8v-of-fury on 04 Feb, 2009 17:59
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wicked wicked WICKED! thank-you guys for shining the light upon my dark and lonely life with a stock differential i think i may seriously look in to this. and yes for sure if i go with it I will document it and post a thread Thank-you again!
p.s Gotta love cheeeeeese :lol: -
#7 by blkboostedtruck on 04 Feb, 2009 18:01
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well if you wanna know what a diff does with a 7000rpm hole shot ask me i'll tell ya!
was bad cheese! literally!
Duane -
#8 by Turbinepowered on 05 Feb, 2009 01:39
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Quote from: "8v-of-fury"
Yes that makes alot of sense.. ***ty design.. oh wait that tires spinning lets transfer allll the power over to this tire so it spins as well! it will work. BS lol All the power all the time to both wheels is how it should always be on fwd cars. then who cares if one spins.. atleast there both spinning and getting you out of whatever ur in.
If both wheels were spinning all the time with all the power no matter the traction, it wouldn't be a differential. And you'd be replacing tires every three months, as going around curves would steadily chew them apart.
Differentials exist to allow the wheels to spin independently of each other. This is necessary because when you are making a turn or driving through a curve, the outside tire must cover more distance than the inner tire. Since the tire circumferences are fixed, the extra distance is covered by that tire spinning a little faster than the inside tire.
If you didn't get this speed differential (see? There's where the name comes from) then you'd be trying to cover the same distance with both tires, and the inner one would "hop" and skid through the turn. Your handling in curves would suck, too.
The tires naturally sort out their speeds without any sort of input or physical selection; as long as both tires have the same traction, they will spin appropriately for the distance they're traveling. When the traction levels are different, the tire with lower traction can "break free" and start spinning as the engine overpowers what little traction there is. Once it's up and spinning, it's going to continue spinning until traction is restored or power input is reduced.
Limited slip differentials, locking differentials, viscous couplings and torsen differentials were all devised to limit or eliminate the slipping that occurs in uneven traction situations. Locking differentials physically lock the two half shafts together so the wheels spin as one. Limited slip and viscous couplings put a "cap" on the amount of speed differential from one side to the other before locking the two halves together, and torsen differentials perform some arcane mechanical voodoo to transfer power from the slipping side to the traction side. -
#9 by clbanman on 05 Feb, 2009 02:57
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What he said. There is a local guy that has a pro street pickup with a spool in the rear end, and if you had ever seen him make a turn into a parking lot you wouldn't want 100% lock in your diff. One tire tries to twist backwards while the other tries to twist forward, eventually the tire with the least traction breaks free, hops in the direction it was twisting with a chirp of rubber, the back of the truck hops up and usually sideways, repeat every 2-4 feet. Its painful to watch but I guess he's cool cause he's got a spool. Best part is he's never been to a strip and launched it hard enough to actually use the spool.
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#10 by jtanguay on 05 Feb, 2009 05:47
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Quote from: "clbanman"
Its painful to watch but I guess he's cool cause he's got a spool. Best part is he's never been to a strip and launched it hard enough to actually use the spool.
sounds like douchebag material... :roll: :lol: -
#11 by lord_verminaard on 05 Feb, 2009 08:00
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Quote from: "8v-of-fury"
Is this some sort of lame limited slip Bs? or what? is it faulty? whatever the problem is its stupid.
95% of all differentials in everything, front or rear, cars or trucks, are open differentials like that. Factory limited-slip is usually a special extra-cost option. Open diffs are cheap to produce, do not usually have any internal parts to wear out, and provide "safe" handling characteristics. For example, in my Camaro that I don't have anymore, with an open diff, the inside rear wheel would spin under throttle around a turn, but it would keep the car mostly straight. When I put a torsen differential in, I bet I spun that thing around 3 times the first day it rained, as the outside/both wheels would spin during a turn which caused the back end to swap places with the front very easily.
The 80% "budget Peloquin" is not really a true differential in that it cannot manipulate torque from one wheel to the other, but it does increase the amount of break-away force needed from each wheel, my Scirocco had the %80 kit, and even under hard throttle around a turn the inside wheel would still spin, but it really helped under moderate throttle under slick conditions, i.e. daily driving. The kit is easy to install, the hardest part (usually) is removing the axles.
Brendan -
#12 by 8v-of-fury on 05 Feb, 2009 14:47
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wow, you guys really ripped me a new one
I kno open diffs are commonly found on most cars, i was just being obnoxious to liven things up if you will. I have a 67 cougar with limited slip and posi-trac. Ass end slides around corners like its ice an i love it. now obviously i dont want my dd to be uncontrollable, yet more controllable in the way of actually having both wheels contribute to me getting moving. I live in an area where there is literally snow on the ground for 6 months straight. i need the traction
but thank you for all your replies, and seeing as how the hardest part of the %80 kit is removing the axles then this should be a piece of cake if i plan to go with it, probably will in the spring. thanks guyS!
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#13 by truckinwagen on 05 Feb, 2009 14:56
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I feel you on the traction thing, and I have a little trick for you to help out, comes from rock crawling.
the 80% kit workd by fooling the diff into thinking there is equal traction. you can do the same by loading the brakes slightly as you accelerate, the diff will feel the brake force on the tire with less traction and "think" that it has traction, as long as you dont give it too much power both wheels will spin together as if they were on pavement.
so if you are CAREFUL about it, you can use your left foot(or the heel of your right foot) to apply some brake force as you slowly pull out you can make both wheels spin on very loose surfaces.
I often find myself spinning one tire and going nowhere, with a little careful application of the brake I can pull out slowly(but actually moving) where I usually could not.
I am actually installing a hydraulic handbrake that will allow me to actuate the front and rear brakes separately for this purpose and for rallcross
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#14 by jtanguay on 05 Feb, 2009 16:47
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Quote from: "truckinwagen"
I feel you on the traction thing, and I have a little trick for you to help out, comes from rock crawling.
the 80% kit workd by fooling the diff into thinking there is equal traction. you can do the same by loading the brakes slightly as you accelerate, the diff will feel the brake force on the tire with less traction and "think" that it has traction, as long as you dont give it too much power both wheels will spin together as if they were on pavement.
so if you are CAREFUL about it, you can use your left foot(or the heel of your right foot) to apply some brake force as you slowly pull out you can make both wheels spin on very loose surfaces.
I often find myself spinning one tire and going nowhere, with a little careful application of the brake I can pull out slowly(but actually moving) where I usually could not.
I am actually installing a hydraulic handbrake that will allow me to actuate the front and rear brakes separately for this purpose and for rallcross
hmmm this is a good idea. i'll have to try that next time im stuck in snow. sounds like a good trade-off for not having over-steer