Ok... this morning I finished creating the PCB wiring and the code.
However, I have NOT tested anything yet... if someone wants to do it.. it would help everyone.. including me since I don't have time right now to do it. If someone wants to do it, contact me BEFORE so you will know if there is any changes to make to the PCB or to the PIC programming.
Here are everything that you need to build a tdi timing (and injection quantity in crankshaft degrees) to LCD. I will soon make a DIY on how to build your own PCB easily.
If you need to buy a programer for the microcontroler you can look here:
http://www.winpic800.com/tienda/index.php?page=shop.product_details&flypage=shop.flypage&product_id=17&category_id=7&manufacturer_id=0&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=8or here
http://www.canakit.com/pic-programmer.html?gclid=CKSfh5Ta_ZkCFSAgDQodm1OTGAor here
http://www.electronickits.com/kit/complete/prog/ck1708.htmor on ebay
(be careful as some may need a power supply as extra cost)
anything that can program a PIC 16F876A is good.
This is the circuit as seen from top. (the second layer is shown in red.. just use 2 wires)
You will also need this file to create the PCB itself
http://www.4shared.com/file/100273995/80ba12ef/timing_to_LCD_PCB.html... here is the components you will need and where to place them:
http://www.4shared.com/file/100274015/da659bd1/timing_to_LCD_V01.htmland... the code to program the microcontroler
http://www.4shared.com/file/100274542/3fbd38dc/Timing.htmlfor now... the code only shows timing... I didn't had time to implement the injection quantity.
-R3 needs to be adjust so you have at least 12.5V at the crank and injector connectors
-R10 needs to be adjusted close to 2.7k PRIOR to installing. In fact, it needs to be adjusted so that if you replace the injector connector by a 10k resistor, you will have 0V when you put the resistor and 5V when you don't put it AT THE TOP RED WIRE.
-R27 needs to be adjusted close to 6.8k PRIOR to installing. In fact, it should act just as R10 but you might need a 1M resistor to make the voltage change from 5V to 0V AT THE LOWER RED WIRE. This one is less difficult to adjust.
-For the LCD, you can use a connector so that you can place the LCD apart from the PCB.
-The crank sensor has 3 wire, only two are usefull, the signal needs to be positive, so you might need to invert the wire if it doesn't work (don't know yet which one to use). I will tell when I checked which one to use.
-The same thing happens with the injector connector, the signal needs to be positive first, so you might need to invert the 2 wire if it doesn't work. I will tell as soon as I have my car back (one of my friend needed it for the week) but I think that the connector at the left when the connector guide face the sky is the positive one.
Finally... when you build it.. my phone number will show on the LCD... give me a call!! lol!