And that's the problem of using a tee to add an oil temperature sensor unfortunately... you don't get much flow in a tee and so the response times can be quite slow.Having said that, if your oil filter flange is not plumbed for an additional oil temperature sensor you don't have many options.. unless you own a M10 x 1 tap. :wink:
If you keep adding tees you can have as many gauges as you want. Smile I personally would get the pressure reading from the side of the head. Reason being that in theory, this should have pretty much the lowest pressure of the system.
But would that be with straight after market gauges and senders? I was saying once you add oil temp into one of the stock oil pressure senders (they work as a pair) and then that stock function doesn't work anymore.I think i'll just have to put the oil temp where the sandwich is and hope it doesn't block any flow. And then put the oil pressure sender in the top of the head to basically just fill the hole.
The components of the dynamic oil pressure warning system are the pressure switches, the electronic control unit, the low oil pressure indicator, and the warning buzzer. A 0.3 bar pressure switch provides a warning when the oil pressure falls to near zero at any time, including at idle. The other (1.8 bar) pressure switch provides earlier warning, at elevated RPM, whenever oil pressure falls below a minimum safe level.The low pressure switches are located on the oil filter flange (0.3 bar) and on the end of the cylinder head (1.8 bar). The electronic control unit is located behind the instrument cluster.
The 1.8 bar pressure switch is normally open (no circuit to ground). When the engine is running above 2000 RPM, oil pressure closes the switch (completing circuit to ground). If oil pressure is insufficient to close the pressure switch, or the switch is stuck open, the indicator will flash and the buzzer will sound.
I bought a second sender and installed it in the water return coming out of the head and back to the top of the radiator
I've been considering where the best place to install a temp sender for he oil and still haven't really made a final decision.There are good and bad on every location I think of.If you read it at the filter mount you are reading for all intensive purpose's the temp in the pan sorta I'll get into that in a second here, it's pulling from the pan to the pump then through the filter then to the sender so basically the same as the pan. There may be some extra heat added due to the compression as it goes through the pump but I'll bet it's not to bad. Also in some cases there is the oil cooler in that step as well so you are reading what temp the oil is heading to the engine instead of reading what the return oil temp is. I don't feel that's a good way to read it, i want to know what temp the oil is coming OUT of the engine so the return oil temp is what I'm looking for.And to address the comments of it sitting in the pan for a long time I'm going to have to disagree. I've not done the calculations as to how much the 36mm pump actually moves at what rpm but I dare say the oil isn't sitting in the pan for very long at all. So you are really reading what the oil temp the is after it is returned to the pan from the internals.
The picture of the two senders that you have on the previous page, they both look like the one on the right. I dropped the pan and welded a bung to screw in the sender. For the coolant, there's a fitting that the upper rad hose attaches to on the block. That way it reads the coolant out of the head toward the rad. I got it of a VW gasser at the junk yard.-JB
