Author Topic: Rear shocks removal! (Read 7874 times)

cipo28 · « **on:** September 06, 2008, 03:16:20 pm »

Do I need a spring compressor tool in order to remove my rear shocks? 'cause I don't have that tool, where I can get a chip one? Any ideas? It's so frustrating when you don't have a proper tool to do the job. Thanks

gigaz2 · « **Reply #1 on:** September 06, 2008, 04:14:27 pm »

no, on the rear ones you can load the car until the top is loose, unscrew the top (carefully), unload it then jack it until the springs extend fully.
then take the shocks and springs off.

be real careful, as the springs are really strong and can severely injure someone if not handled with that in mind.

also take pictures and note the order and orientation of the spacers and shims on the upper shock mount.

Vincent Waldon · « **Reply #2 on:** September 06, 2008, 04:27:32 pm »

Quote from: "cipo28"

Do I need a spring compressor tool in order to remove my rear shocks? 'cause I don't have that tool, where I can get a chip one? Any ideas? It's so frustrating when you don't have a proper tool to do the job. Thanks

All you need is a 17mm wrench and socket to remove the shocks:

-jack up the rear end and remove the rear wheels
- remove the 17mm bolt and nut that hold the bottom of the shock to the trailing arm of the rear suspension
- working in the trunk, remove the three 17mm nuts that hold the assortment of washers and rubber spacers on the top of the shock
- withdraw the shock

Once you remove the shock you'll be left with one more nut (it might also be a 17) that holds down the spring retainer and then you disassemble the whole unit... no spring compressor required because of the lengh of the spring.

As the previous poster suggests... good idea to take notes or pictures so that you put all the various spacers, nuts, etc back in the right order when you put your new shocks back in.

gigaz2 · « **Reply #3 on:** September 06, 2008, 06:00:10 pm »

I like that version, a lot simpler than mine

I'll try it next time

cipo28 · « **Reply #4 on:** September 06, 2008, 06:42:41 pm »

...thank you so much guys, I looked today after a spring compressor but is much more expensive than what I payed for the shocks together...this is great that I don't need it. Thanks again!

clbanman · « **Reply #5 on:** September 07, 2008, 11:20:26 am »

http://www.princessauto.com/_osn.cfm?CTRY=CAN&output=OSN&SRCH=1&SRCHAREA=OSN&T1=COIL%20SPRING%20COMPRESSOR
I think the store in Mississauga would be closest to you:http://www.princessauto.com/PAcountry.cfm?CTRY=CAN&INF=MAP&LOC=MISS&SPC=1

cipo28 · « **Reply #6 on:** September 08, 2008, 05:38:59 pm »

Quote from: "clbanman"

http://www.princessauto.com/_osn.cfm?CTRY=CAN&output=OSN&SRCH=1&SRCHAREA=OSN&T1=COIL%20SPRING%20COMPRESSOR
I think the store in Mississauga would be closest to you:http://www.princessauto.com/PAcountry.cfm?CTRY=CAN&INF=MAP&LOC=MISS&SPC=1

THANK YOU! $11.99...THAT'S A STEAL!

Vincent Waldon · « **Reply #7 on:** September 08, 2008, 06:17:15 pm »

And they work just fine and are very safe.... hard to believe for 12 bucks !!

Still, it's a good idea to treat a McPherson strut like a loaded gun that could go off without notice.. in other words, point it away from you at all times !!

burn_your_money · « **Reply #8 on:** September 08, 2008, 07:05:04 pm »

Quote from: "Vincent Waldon"

And they work just fine and are very safe.... hard to believe for 12 bucks !!

Still, it's a good idea to treat a McPherson strut like a loaded gun that could go off without notice.. in other words, point it away from you at all times !!

Solid advice on both counts.

smutts · « **Reply #9 on:** September 30, 2008, 01:42:56 pm »

Watch out for Boge and Sachs using normal and fine metric threads for the top mounts, this has caused me grief before.

saurkraut · « **Reply #10 on:** October 01, 2008, 05:39:56 am »

If your car has a horizontal bolt going through the shock and the axel, have a Sawzall near by.

If they salt the roads in your local, the lower shock bolt is fused to the sleeve inside the lower shock mount with rust. You'll have to cut the lower shock bolt on both sides of the shock to get it out.

BlackTieTD · « **Reply #11 on:** October 02, 2008, 07:01:25 am »

naw shouldn't be as bad as all that. i just did the rears on my salt-driven rabbit and although the lower bolts were rusted in there good, a little PB blaster and some taps with a hammer sort that out. we have to be the road salt capital of the world here. :x

saurkraut · « **Reply #12 on:** October 02, 2008, 08:16:24 am »

Nos-hit, I've had to do quite a few with the sawzall.

Heat, beat, rustoff, didn't do squat.

Be prepaired

Try the lowers first. If the come out, your in luck. If not, find a sawzall.

BlackTieTD · « **Reply #13 on:** October 02, 2008, 09:52:42 am »

you made it sound like the common procedure required a sawzall to do the job on a car with this type of bolt. i think its more of a last resort if the car has been sitting in a field or something. no need to go get a sawzall before doing rear suspension work :? can be done with simple hand tools and a jack.

saurkraut · « **Reply #14 on:** October 02, 2008, 10:45:23 am »

I truely hope the OP doesn't need the sawzall.

But i've seen too many daily drivers in this area that need it for a rear shock change. I guess we get more salt than you.

Lucky us....