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banjo bolts???
by
Hammy
on 01 Jul, 2008 08:22
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Hey everyone;
Stupid me, I swapped out my IP, for a non-leaking one, until I get my seal kit. I can't remember which banjo bolt goes where? I put the larger (inside diameter) bolt with the holes in the side, on the feed line, and the smaller (inside diameter) bolt on the return.
Secondly, the pump I installed from an old engine I used to run, used to be a real SOB to get the air out of the lines. Everything was great last night, no air, this morning cranky to start, and air bubbles again. I think it has to be sucking air somewhere, and probably at the banjo fittings I would think? The engine started and ran perfectly on the old pump?
Any ideas?
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#1
by
jimfoo
on 01 Jul, 2008 09:31
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The bolt with the screen inside and very small hole in the side is the out bolt. Put it on the in fitting and I imagine the lift pump would create a lot of suction, possibly pulling air past the seals.
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#2
by
Hammy
on 01 Jul, 2008 09:37
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So, just to understand you correctly, the small diameter (hole) banjo bolt, should be on the feed side (suction from filter, tank). The large banjo bolt goes on the return. If that is the case then I have them reversed. Correct?
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#3
by
jtanguay
on 01 Jul, 2008 09:39
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did you use copper washers on the banjo bolts?
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#4
by
Hammy
on 01 Jul, 2008 09:42
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Yes I did use copper washers on the bolts. They were the old ones though, I will try cracking the lines and reseal. I have never really had problems with them before though.
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#5
by
zukgod1
on 01 Jul, 2008 10:35
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So, just to understand you correctly, the small diameter (hole) banjo bolt, should be on the feed side (suction from filter, tank). The large banjo bolt goes on the return. If that is the case then I have them reversed. Correct?
The one with the smaller hole (and screen in it) goes in the return on the back of the pump (TD) top if non TD, the larger one goes to the supply.
As jimfoo mentioned reversing them may case it to suck air past the seals.
I don't know if you would ever get it to run using the return in the supply.
That
tiny hole would be very restrictive.
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#6
by
Hammy
on 01 Jul, 2008 15:14
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I had it the right way, but to answer, yes it will run with them reversed as I tried it, but barely, lol!! I also found my leak, as the return plastic line was rubbing on the clamp for the injection lines. So, all seems well now. I will report back.
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#7
by
Hammy
on 01 Jul, 2008 15:15
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Oh, thanks for the help, and input everyone! :wink:
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#8
by
jtanguay
on 01 Jul, 2008 16:31
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to avoid issues in the future, you may also want to change some of the fuel lines while you're at it. about 3 years after purchasing my car i had to do that, and it was right during winter
pretty cold out!!! :lol: could have saved myself lots of headaches by just doing it during the summer.
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#9
by
Hammy
on 02 Jul, 2008 18:11
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Where is the best place to buy lines?
Thanks
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#10
by
jimfoo
on 02 Jul, 2008 21:15
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I just used regular fuel line from the local auto pars store. If you plan on running lots of bio, you might want to look for viton lines though.
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#11
by
jtanguay
on 02 Jul, 2008 23:21
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yea the lines start to crack on the insides... you won't notice it until its too late (and she won't start) a small lift pump will keep you going though. i bought one of those 4-7 psi facet pumps. they work excellent! very quiet, low amp draw, and best of all, they make quick work of any air in the system. fuel filter changes are much easier too :wink:
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#12
by
fatmobile
on 03 Jul, 2008 00:02
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I think you will be better off with clear fuel lines,.. big help when it comes to troubleshooting.
1/4" ID vinyl or the pretty blue urethane tubing that can be found at motorcycle shops is biodiesel safe.
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#13
by
zukgod1
on 03 Jul, 2008 07:01
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or the pretty blue urethane tubing that can be found at motorcycle shops is biodiesel safe.
I just installed some of that line.
Looks nice also, wish I could get is small enough for the return lines on the injectors.
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#14
by
dillenger1
on 03 Jul, 2008 15:48
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two stroke line works at the haedware store
