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#15
by
92EcoDiesel Jetta
on 10 Jun, 2012 07:06
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assuming the cable is still good, and still on the car, press the pedal to the floor once, then grab the cable above the adjuster and then the adjuster itself. push the adjuster UP towards the cable. Of course i should have said to put some mechanic wire around the cable just above the adjusting sleeve with some left hanging down on both sides. If and when the adjusting sleeve moves up grab one of the wire ends and wrap it around the little tab that's sticking out, then the other side. If it doesn't work the first time try again pushing the pedal to the floor only once.
I have no problems with those cables and i garantee they will make your clutch last longer.
Some people don't like them because you can't visaully see how much adjustment is left. The way to tell if your clutch is shot [besides the smell !] is if you push down the lever, the more clutch is left the more you will be able to push the lever down.
As above but with the cable on the bench, put the clutch end into a vise and pulling slight tension on it grab the cable and pull the adjuster towards the firewall end of the cable.
good luck and keep the faith
Hey Caveman, I tried your procedure but can't seem to get enough length out of the metal cable to reach through the opening of the clutch lever. Can you describe how the clutch cable self adjust feature works internally? What does stepping on the clutch in your procedure do? Does it rest something? I don't want to pull the cable to study it and end up doing more work/ breaking something else in the process. Right now I have the cable end hooked up to the clutch lever with just the cable retainer minus the rubber block and metal support spacer because I can't get sufficient length from the metal cable.
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#16
by
the caveman
on 10 Jun, 2012 09:28
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I just reread what I wrote and may have described it wrong. It helps to have someone help for the first part. First with it still mounted up to the trans and clutch lever, press the clutch pedal once to the floor and release. Then under the hood, with that piece of wire wrapped around the end of the cable sleeve just above the adjuster [ with about 5-6 inches of ends hanging loose on opposite sides], grab the adjuster part with one hand and push up against the sleeve. You should be able to move it a few inches up. Now quickly tie the ends of the wire around the two round tabs sticking of the side of the adjuster tight enough to hold the adjuster in place. you should now be able to detach the end of the cable off the clutch lever,pull the cable down [while holding the adjuster] enough to get slack to mount the rubber bit, metal clip and lock.
Doing it is much easier than trying to explain it.
Be patient, it may take a couple of tries, but you should be able to do it. All this is assuming your clutch isn't shot and at the end of it's adjustment, which means the lever will be at it's lowest point , there fore you won't have enough cable , because there isn't enough slack left.
It can be done, i've done it dozens of times.
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#17
by
92EcoDiesel Jetta
on 10 Jun, 2012 13:07
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Caveman, maybe I was not being clear. The clutch cable is already unhooked from the lever without taking any special precaution. The clutch was working fine so not completely worn out afaik. I need more slack out of the metal cable in order to put it back on the lever. Right now, I have it hooked to the lever without the rubber block/ metal plate under it because of insufficient length in the metal cable. I would like to put the rubber block/ metal plate back in but unless I can get more length from the metal cable, it will not fit.
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#18
by
R.O.R-2.0
on 10 Jun, 2012 13:47
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Caveman, maybe I was not being clear. The clutch cable is already unhooked from the lever without taking any special precaution. The clutch was working fine so not completely worn out afaik. I need more slack out of the metal cable in order to put it back on the lever. Right now, I have it hooked to the lever without the rubber block/ metal plate under it because of insufficient length in the metal cable. I would like to put the rubber block/ metal plate back in but unless I can get more length from the metal cable, it will not fit.
just throw away the auto cable and buy a mk2 manual adjust cable.
the auto cables are junk. they never let your clutch assembly completely release.
if you have an auto cable, its basically the same as riding the clutch 100% of the time.
there is always a load on the throw out bearing, as well as everything associated with it..
and it NEVER fully releases tension on any of the clutch components..
i had an auto cable on my Jetta when i first got it, then the clutch started slipping, and i noticed the clutch cable was very tight. switched to a manual cable, and drove that clutch another 20k miles..
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#19
by
the caveman
on 10 Jun, 2012 17:34
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R.O.R-2.0_When we used to service all the diesel Jetta taxis back in the late eighties, the ones with adjustable clutch cables would wear them out in less than a year [ driven 24/7 ; 150,000 kms per year]; which meant that by the time 2 year unlimited warranty ran out, some of them had had their clutches changed 2,3 or 4 times. The ones with self adjusting clutches would need it changed once , maybe twice. Since then I would only use a self adjusting cable.
Caveman, maybe I was not being clear. The clutch cable is already unhooked from the lever without taking any special precaution. The clutch was working fine so not completely worn out afaik. I need more slack out of the metal cable in order to put it back on the lever. Right now, I have it hooked to the lever without the rubber block/ metal plate under it because of insufficient length in the metal cable. I would like to put the rubber block/ metal plate back in but unless I can get more length from the metal cable, it will not fit.
Okay you will still be able to still do it.Pull the cable [ the end coming out of the adjuster] and the adjuster. Have someone press the clutch pedal once. You should then be able to collapse the adjuster and wrap the wire around the tabs. If it doesn't work once , try again. All you are doing is getting past the internal ratchet and making it's teeth move up a few spots
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#20
by
92EcoDiesel Jetta
on 10 Jun, 2012 18:32
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caveman, thanks, I'll try again. I don't understand why a manual cable will wear the clutch out sooner. As long as it's adjusted so it separates the pressure plate from the friction disc when you step on the pedal, shouldn't it last just as long as a self adjusting cable?
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#21
by
R.O.R-2.0
on 11 Jun, 2012 09:19
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caveman, thanks, I'll try again. I don't understand why a manual cable will wear the clutch out sooner. As long as it's adjusted so it separates the pressure plate from the friction disc when you step on the pedal, shouldn't it last just as long as a self adjusting cable?
yea, idk whats up with that..
like i said, i changed from a auto cable to a manual, when the clutch was already slipping, and drove the clutch another 15k miles or so..
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#22
by
CRSMP5
on 11 Jun, 2012 10:17
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id say someone did not set the freeplay properly... all auto adjust ones ive delt with wore out clutches faster then the rest as auto ones lack free play..
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#23
by
R.O.R-2.0
on 11 Jun, 2012 12:28
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id say someone did not set the freeplay properly... all auto adjust ones ive delt with wore out clutches faster then the rest as auto ones lack free play..
me too. if properly adjusted, the manual cable should be leaps and bounds better than the auto..
Caveman, you sure you dont have it backwards, and the auto cables would eat 3x or 4x more clutches in the same time period?
it doesnt sound right.. if the manual cable is adjusted right, it should NOT exert any stress on any of the clutch components when released.
the auto cable NEVER releases tension on the clutch setup. just like i mentioned before, having a auto cable is just like constantly riding the clutch pedal 100% of the time..
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#24
by
92EcoDiesel Jetta
on 11 Jun, 2012 13:54
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Agreed. I asked Brian of brokevw (he's been a great help with my ACN tranny prep) and he said that self adjust cables do not extend clutch life, they reduce it. The self adjust cable keeps constant tension on the clutch parts, not enough to disengage the clutch, but enough to cause accelerated wear between push rod and the thrust plate at the clutch.
I've got manual cable coming in the mail.
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#25
by
bbob203
on 11 Jun, 2012 19:12
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Manual cable 15-25 bucks.
self adjust 50-75 dollars.
no brainer.
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#26
by
the caveman
on 13 Jun, 2012 05:00
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What about leaving this info here for someone who may be stuck or wants to use a automatic cable. I'm sure he could of figured out that a regular cable would work.He was asking how to fix what he had, not what his options were. This is why I hate forums and why I haven't been on this site for the last 4 months
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#27
by
the caveman
on 13 Jun, 2012 07:12
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id say someone did not set the freeplay properly... all auto adjust ones ive delt with wore out clutches faster then the rest as auto ones lack free play..
me too. if properly adjusted, the manual cable should be leaps and bounds better than the auto..
Caveman, you sure you dont have it backwards, and the auto cables would eat 3x or 4x more clutches in the same time period?
it doesnt sound right.. if the manual cable is adjusted right, it should NOT exert any stress on any of the clutch components when released.
the auto cable NEVER releases tension on the clutch setup. just like i mentioned before, having a auto cable is just like constantly riding the clutch pedal 100% of the time..
NO I DON'T HAVE IT BACK WARDS. We used to retrofit all those jetta taxis so their clutches would last twice as long. At the same time we would ditch the regular discs and pads for ventilated ones, so the brakes would last more than 2 weeks.
Did 92ecodieseljetta want our opinion? NO- he wanted to know how to fix what he had
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#28
by
R.O.R-2.0
on 13 Jun, 2012 09:14
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Agreed. I asked Brian of brokevw (he's been a great help with my ACN tranny prep) and he said that self adjust cables do not extend clutch life, they reduce it. The self adjust cable keeps constant tension on the clutch parts, not enough to disengage the clutch, but enough to cause accelerated wear between push rod and the thrust plate at the clutch.
I've got manual cable coming in the mail.
but if BrokeVW says the manual cables are better, then in my mind, the manual cables are better..
and my MY PERSONAL experiences, the AUTO CABLES SUCK ASS..
i dont like messing with my cable for 45 mins to get it to adjust.
and im SURE AS HELL not going to pay the 4-5 prices of the auto cable, compared to a manual cable..
and i still think you guys were doing something wrong with the jetta taxis. that makes no sense, a MANUAL cable eating a clutch faster.. maybe it was the other end of the equation, maybe the drivers rode the clutch more with the manual cables, who knows?
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#29
by
theman53
on 13 Jun, 2012 13:24
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Thanks Caveman for the info on how to fix the auto cable. I have never owned an auto cable personally and this will be quite helpful if I ever do. I do have a bentley and I have no clue if they are covered in there or not, I have never looked for them.
Please let us mods know if there is more we could do to make it more enjoyable for everyone. I know we all have different experiences and different opinions, which is what makes it get better sometimes.