Quantum Syncro + 2.0 L Audi TD, project for sale... - page 4 - IDI Engine - VWDiesel.net The IDI, TDI, and mTDI source.

• #45 by chrissev on 17 Apr, 2005 18:08
• Quote from: "jackbombay"

  Quote from: "chrissev"

  does the pump sprocket move when you have it locked?  I found with my 1.6TD that I had to hold the pump at TDC with my left hand, and put the cam pulley on with my right, otherwise the pump sprocket would move slightly back from TDC (locking pin didn't lock very well) and then it would be really out of time.

  
  
     The locking pin fits well, a little slop, but not much. I guess the descrepency is just in the belt?

  
  
  I guess.  I found the locking pin on my 1.6TD would allow the injection pump gear to move back enough that the belt was actually one tooth off where it was supposed to be on the pump sprocket, and this messed up everything else (couldn't get the camshaft pulley to line up with the crankshaft pulley with the belt on).  When I held the pump gear in place with my hand, all was cured and camshaft pulley slipped in easily and lined up perfect.  Weird design for a locking pin.  Almost completely useless.
• #46 by watsongs on 17 Apr, 2005 22:46
• I just replaced the pump on my 1.5 and had to use a 3/8 socket extension as a locking pin; it was a long one so it allowed me to leverage the sprocket into the right position -
• #47 by jackbombay on 18 Apr, 2005 20:45
• Got a few more things checked off the list today, oil cooler installed (still need ot cut out some of the body for proper air flow)
   
  
  
    Here is a pic of one of the mounting brackets
  
   
  
    and the other end
  
  
  
  
  
    Fuel filter mount
  
   
  
    And frankenstein Down pipe work,
  
   
  
  
     So the battery that came with the car has 780 cranking amps at 32*F, shold be enough juice right? And I need to get battery location figured out...
• #48 by jackbombay on 19 Apr, 2005 18:25
• Few more things checked off the list, Gas tank emptied of gas and a sucessfull trip to the junk yard, I was missing the checkvalve that screws into the vaccum pump, and the fitting on the IP that is supplied with boost from the intake manifold, thoes bits have been difficult to find.
  
      One problem that has shown up is that the fuel tank and filler neck are one piece, I need a different filler neck so the diesel nozzle will fit, the chances of finding a Quantum diesel tank anre VERY slim, all the wreckers I called today laughed. I suppose I will have to use a die grinder to make the hole in the filler neck larger to accept the diesel nozzle. I'll stick the sho vac hose up to the opening from inside the tank while I grind I am thinking.
  
    I also need a "clunk" or weight for the end of the fuel line in the tank. Is there a filter incorperated into the "clunk"? I could just use one from any VW diesel right?
  
  
    I also got this of the Volvo 740 TD at the junk yard
  
   
• #49 by fatmobile on 19 Apr, 2005 23:38
• I just put a diesel engine in an '81 Rabbit gasser and couldn't use the diesel fill nozzle.
   I pulled the pipe off the car and took a chisel to the inside. Found a rivet on the side, put the chisel to it and the whole piece turned sideways and came out in one piece.
   I'm not sure how this would work with your car but I'm going to try it with my '91 Golf next.
• #50 by Mark(The Miser)UK on 20 Apr, 2005 12:16
• Quote from: "jackbombay"

  
  
   

  
  
   :mrgreen: AHHH BISTO :mrgreen:
• #51 by jackbombay on 24 Apr, 2005 23:24
• Quote from: "fatmobile"

  I pulled the pipe off the car and took a chisel to the inside. Found a rivet on the side, put the chisel to it and the whole piece turned sideways and came out in one piece.

  
  
    Mine is not set-up like that unfortunatley, but I have a solution in mind.
  
  
    So I was just working on the car thinking that I was getting close to making some Diesel exahaust, I was refilling the radiator and... the water pump is bad    Coolant came pouring out the weep hole :cry:  :cry:  :cry: . It is cheap enough that I should have installed a new one when I did the T-belt.. Oh well. Now I have to re-time everything, Hopefully I will get it fired up tomorrow, assuming i can find a water pump around town.
• #52 by jackbombay on 25 Jun, 2005 16:21
• I am close to getting this going again, I want to do a budget rebuild.
  
    Head completley rebuilt at aluminum head rebuilders here in Portland, $300
  
     Bad cylinder overbored and sleeved, all cylinders honed, $350
   
     New HG and bolts ~$100
  
     rings, $80
  
    So somewhere around 850-900 bucks all said and done is what I am hoping for.
  
      I am hoping that the bearings are good to reuse and that the pistons are close to spec, a set of pistons would make this a lot more expensive. I will be dissasembling the block next weekend and was wanting to know the best way to check bearing condition, Plastigauge them? along with visuall indicators of wear? What about checking the piston/bore spec? just use a high quality caliper? How do I check for cylinder taper?  
  
    Thanks, Jack
• #53 by Otis2 on 26 Jun, 2005 12:12
• I can't speak to piston measurement & cylinder taper, but as to bearings...
  
  If I were you, and I had this engine all disassembled anyway, and I knew that it had been mistreated by its previous owner (just as you know now), then I'd be replacing bearings as a matter of course, whatever the Plastigauge readings said.  (Unless they show "out of round", which is another P.I.T.A. altogether).
  
  A number of us here have low oil pressure issues.  Some have traced that to the I-shaft bearings, so those should *definitely* be replaced.  But, "in for a penny, in for a pound", the main & connecting rod bearings might as well be renewed, too, at the same time.
  
  I know it's a few bucks more, but if you get it all together installed, and you have no more than 60 psi oil pressure on stone cold startup, and near 0 at warm idle, then you're going to wish you had spent the few extra $ when it would have been relatively easy to do.
• #54 by veeman on 27 Jun, 2005 07:28
• Hey there...
  
  IMO, the 5-cyl cranks are really stout and you probably don't have any worries there, but I think it'd be a good step to plastigage the bearings, see if they're in spec and then replace if necessary.
  
  Is the engine's bottom end out of the car?  I've checked crank saddle and big end bearings with the engine in the car, but it's not super fun.  
  
  Both times I've gone over 5-cyl bottom ends (both gas/turbo), I went to the trouble of removing the engine, taking the crank to a machine shop and both times they were absolutely fine.  The guys there remarked that they were in good shape for having 150k and only polished them up a bit.
  
  As for the intermediate shaft bearings... I'm sure you know that your 5-cyl doesn't have those.
  
  Good to hear your project is going again!  Can't wait to see how it drives.
• #55 by jackbombay on 27 Jun, 2005 08:26
• Engine is out of the car on an engine stand so checking tolerances will be easy. I'm getting some prices for parts from Halsey automotive, somehow I can't find rod bearings avalible, hopefully they have them... if I need them.
• #56 by jackbombay on 10 Jul, 2005 18:49
• The block has most everything removed, but I am not sure how to remove the dipstick tube, anyone know?
  
    The crank and rod bearings are in very good shape, all are well within the tolerances for new parts  
  
  Crank bearings,
  1) .045mm
  2) .050mm
  3) .040mm
  4) .045mm
  5) .045mm
  6) .045mm
  
  Rod bearings
  1) .040mm
  2) .032mm
  3) .038mm
  4) .038mm
  5) .040mm
  
    I can't find my feeler gauges right now though so I cannot test the side clearance on the crank bearings or the thrust bearing, but they seem quite good, the thrust bearing has no wear of note as the motor was originally mated to an auto.
  
    The only thing of note inside the engine was that the #5 piston oil squirter was broken off just like the #4 was on Malones engine.
  
    2 of the crank bearings had marks like this, but I could not feel any imperfection where these marks are,
  
  
  
    The rod bearing all looked like this,
  
  
  
    At this point I am not going to replace any of the bearings, I don't see any point.
  
   I am however going to get some fancy headbolts so I won't have to worry about head gasket issues in the future.
• #57 by therabbittree on 10 Jul, 2005 19:23
• man i would replace the bearings if i was you they are cheap..and its apart and on the satnd ..whats $60bucks during a rebuild..the mark on that first bearing could be from a bit of dirt or grim under the bearing shell that caused it to wear different in that spot when it was torqued down... any new news about your project?..im iching to do mine sometime soon..mummn i smell nickle and dime me to death thought ha..how to hear more from you soon
  thanks
  Deo
• #58 by jackbombay on 10 Jul, 2005 19:35
• The project is moving along slowly, need to get the rebuild sorted and done, I'm dropping th block at the rebuilders tommorow so they can measure for cylinder taper and piston tolerances. Having taken the engine in and out a few times now it will only take a few hours to get the rebuilt installed, once it is rebuilt of course. The Diesel gas conversion of the car is complete, all I need is a running 2.0 L TD :?  It will probably be the end of summer at this point.
• #59 by veeman on 11 Jul, 2005 10:13
• >>The block has most everything removed, but I am not sure how to remove the dipstick tube, anyone know?
  
  If it's like the gas 5-cyl, it should be a pretty tight fit into the block...almost press fit.  I've never taken one off personally, but I've heard people say you can use a slide hammer with a special attachment (bolt with diameter large enough to go into the ID of the tube) to pull it off.
  
  Before you do any of that though, I'd be sure that you can find a replacement if necessary.   I'd hate to see the thing damaged beyond repair upon removal...
  
  Glad to see the project is moving along...