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Injector re and re questions...
by
dieselweasel
on 26 Mar, 2005 19:41
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First off, do I need a special socket? The Bentley says that you need a 27 mm deep socket. I noticed that Snap-On sells a special socket worth 50 something bucks for this job. I'd like to just buy a regular $10, 27mm deep socket from Cdn Tire if possible.
Anyone ever come across an injector that was seized in the head or damaged the threads coming out? The head is aluminum and injector is steel so that concerns me a bit.
As for the heatshields, where is a good place to buy them? Dealership?
Anything else I should be aware of?
Thanks.
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#1
by
Dr. Diesel
on 26 Mar, 2005 21:01
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I bought a cheap socket and hogged it out to clear the little return fittings on the injector. Works great.
I usually get heat shields from the dealer.
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#2
by
srivett
on 26 Mar, 2005 21:08
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I would get the thinnest walled deep socket I could find. When I used an impact socket on my car and it caused some problems on both sides. It hit the return lines and was a bit too big to fit between the injector and cylinder head.
Steve
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#3
by
chrissev
on 26 Mar, 2005 21:24
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First off, do I need a special socket? The Bentley says that you need a 27 mm deep socket. I noticed that Snap-On sells a special socket worth 50 something bucks for this job. I'd like to just buy a regular $10, 27mm deep socket from Cdn Tire if possible.
Anyone ever come across an injector that was seized in the head or damaged the threads coming out? The head is aluminum and injector is steel so that concerns me a bit.
As for the heatshields, where is a good place to buy them? Dealership?
Anything else I should be aware of?
Thanks.
hmmm, I had a regular 27mm deep socket. It didn't fit (hit the return line fittings) so I had to buy the $50 one from snap on which is curved on the inside so it fits over the return fittings. Whatever socket you buy make sure it is really deep. I should measure mine and tell you how deep next time I go out to my car (where my tools are, in the trunk).
The injectors will often be seized due to carbon build up in the threads. One thing you have to keep in mind (and I see you were thinking about it already) is that the head is indeed made of aluminum, which is a very soft metal, and the injector holes in the head are rather close to the edge of the head with only a small thin bit of metal at the front. It is very possible (people do it all the time) to tear the aluminum head while using a breaker bar or some such device to remove a stuck injector. So as much as possible you want to limit the brute force you use to take the injectors out if they do happen to be stuck or carboned in place, and instead use other methods like alternately tightening and loosening the injector to try to break it free, using penetrating oil, etc. to help free the stuck injector.
The next major thing you want to remember is when you put the injectors back in, you need to only tighten them to a specific torque, that being 70Nm, 51 ft. lb. Before you do this you need to clean the threads really well. If you don't have a torque wrench forget about doing the job until you get one. Correct torque is really important. It's also a good idea to coat the injector threads with anti seize compound so that the injectors will be easy to take out the next time.
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#4
by
jackbombay
on 26 Mar, 2005 22:14
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A craftsman 27 mm Deep socket worked fine for me, no modification necessary.
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#5
by
fatmobile
on 26 Mar, 2005 22:33
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I think mine is a 1 1/16".
Me thinks the 12 point sockets clear the return lines better than the 6 point ones.
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#6
by
dieselweasel
on 27 Mar, 2005 11:13
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Thanks very much guys...I think I'll look for a Craftsman chrome 12 point.
Thank you for the tips chrissev. I do have a couple torque wrenches...in fact I own enough tools to make your head spin, but there's always just one more thing...
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#7
by
Mark(The Miser)UK
on 27 Mar, 2005 12:26
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Thanks very much guys...I think I'll look for a Craftsman chrome 12 point.
Thank you for the tips chrissev. I do have a couple torque wrenches...in fact I own enough tools to make your head spin, but there's always just one more thing...
:twisted: I made a 'socket out of a piece of pipe which I hit round an inch-ish Nut. (25.4mm) I think its best to use /create some kind of 'T' bar to reduce adverse leverage on head. Penetrating oil pre-soak and then treat like cutting a thread if stiffness continues... :twisted:
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#8
by
81rabbit
on 27 Mar, 2005 15:52
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Another thing I’d add is when you go back to putting the injector in. Be very careful when putting that last bit of torque on it. In fact someone once told me (to late I might add) to make sure the torque wrench handle is running parallel with the car (have the end pointing either towards the front or even better the rear of the car).
The reason for this is if you had it pointed towards one of the sides of the car you could very easily put to much torque on the thin part of the head where the injector seat is and crack it. I did that and have to spend $40 to get a welder in town to fix mine...
I also got that 27mm from sears and it just bearly fits. It kind of brushed the return nipples on the injectors but it work okay..
Good luck..
-J
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#9
by
dieselweasel
on 27 Mar, 2005 21:28
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Thanks again for the info...that's something I definitely would not have known. Poorly made if you ask me...I hate flimsy designs.
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#10
by
Mark(The Miser)UK
on 28 Mar, 2005 00:50
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Thanks again for the info...that's something I definitely would not have known. Poorly made if you ask me...I hate flimsy designs.
:lol: Being a weasel you'll be OK...Now if you were a stoat... :lol:
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#11
by
Mark(The Miser)UK
on 28 Mar, 2005 00:55
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Another thing I’d add is when you go back to putting the injector in. Be very careful when putting that last bit of torque on it. In fact someone once told me (to late I might add) to make sure the torque wrench handle is running parallel with the car (have the end pointing either towards the front or even better the rear of the car).
The reason for this is if you had it pointed towards one of the sides of the car you could very easily put to much torque on the thin part of the head where the injector seat is and crack it. I did that and have to spend $40 to get a welder in town to fix mine...
I also got that 27mm from sears and it just bearly fits. It kind of brushed the return nipples on the injectors but it work okay..
Good luck..
-J
I assume youre talkin' Rabbits here :lol:
I suppose youwant the force to go along the engine rather than across it....
:idea: I think a 'T' bar helps too :idea:
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#12
by
veeman
on 28 Mar, 2005 05:45
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>>I bought a cheap socket and hogged it out to clear the little return fittings on the injector.
I read that and modified my Home_Cheapo "Husky" deep socket (same size as the crank pulley on most I-5's BTW) to fit around the top of the injector. Five minutes with the die grinder and it works great!
Thanks for the tip.