Author Topic: 1.6 D Oil pressure/pump problem? (Read 15430 times)

Trimster · « **on:** September 28, 2007, 07:44:01 am »

My oil pressure is low at idle (Oil light on, buzzer ender dash pissing me off). Sending units are fresh. Can the oil pump be replaced/rebuilt? If so, how do I get at it?

Thanks.

Trimster · « **Reply #1 on:** September 28, 2007, 08:01:06 am »

Sooo.... engine rebuild in the future?

blkboostedtruck · « **Reply #2 on:** September 28, 2007, 08:01:20 am »

is yours a diesel? did you put the larger size filter on? I know if you use a small gas style filter on a diesel it will play havoc on your engine and oil pressure!
as for as the oil pump pretty easy! just drain oil,unbolt oil pan , then 2 13mm. bolts hold on the oil pump assembly on ! should take less then 10 min to dissassemble! but you should try an oil pressure gage first to see where your at with oil pressure!

thanks Duane

madmedix · « **Reply #3 on:** September 28, 2007, 08:50:43 am »

Where the best spot to put in the sender? The top one on the right side of the block or the lower sender?

blkboostedtruck · « **Reply #4 on:** September 28, 2007, 10:02:40 am »

Quote from: "libbybapa"

More like engine rebuild in the present or tossed rod in the near future and no rebuildable core. A gauge would be a really good idea first, just to double-check.

Andrew

I agree with Andrew! also i would take some compression readings from cylinders to see where your engine life is before you decided to tear it down!
I balieve the oil sender unit would be off the side of the head?

thanks Duane

Trimster · « **Reply #5 on:** September 28, 2007, 10:54:30 am »

Ok, I can do the compression test. The little motor runs like a top, seems to be burning oil but no excess smoke. It just warns low oil pressure at idle.

If the compression is within some sort of norms, what would be the plan to get the Oil Pressure back?

And what manual is the best to buy for these buggers?

TIA

jtanguay · « **Reply #6 on:** September 28, 2007, 11:08:38 am »

Quote from: "Trimster"

Ok, I can do the compression test. The little motor runs like a top, seems to be burning oil but no excess smoke. It just warns low oil pressure at idle.

If the compression is within some sort of norms, what would be the plan to get the Oil Pressure back?

And what manual is the best to buy for these buggers?

TIA

get a mechanical gauge first to rule out faulty sensors. you wouldn't want to start replacing things and tearing into your motor when its just a faulty sensor...

Quantum TD · « **Reply #7 on:** September 28, 2007, 06:34:22 pm »

Before you get your panties all in a bunch, there's a bunch of cheap tricks you can do to salvage oil pressure:

1) What viscosity oil do you use? If it's anything less than 15/W40, then your pressure problem is caused by thin oil. Similarly, if you use crap oil (Havoline, Quaker State, etc), you're oil pressure will drop. Use Shell Rotella-T 15W/40 oil, and you shouldn't have any problems. Especially when you consider that the oil pumps on diesels RARELY go bad.

2) Have you ever used a silcone product on the oil system? For example, have you ever used silicone on the valve cover gasket? Oil pan? etc? If you have, the silicone can break free and clog the screen on the oil pump. If so, you simply need to drop the pan, remove the pick-up screen, and clean the crap out of it. Put it all back together and fill with Shell Rotella-T. No more low pressure.

3) If 1 & 2 above don't solve it, then look to the IM shaft, but I've never seen those go bad. Also look at your vacuum pump to make sure that it's bolted in properly. The lower gear on the vacuum pump drives the oil pump. If there's funkiness there, then it may affect oil pressure.

4)If nothing above stops the issue of a buzzing into relay, then look to a mechanical gauge.

Trimster · « **Reply #8 on:** September 28, 2007, 07:06:24 pm »

Cool. Lots to do... but here's some answers.

1- always use Rotella 15 w 40. However, since the oil buzzer goes on after the engine gets warm.. I have been using straight HD 40w. That prolongs the moment when the buzzer starts.

2- Nope. No silcone.

3- Did rebuild the vacuum pump (twice... something about learning that the pump needed to be timed... but I'm over that). IM shaft? intermediate shaft? From where to where?

Oil light has been a problem for 4 months. On and off with randomness even before the vacuum pump rebuild. The buzzer thing is new in the past few weeks.

I think I'll hit AutoZone and get a gauge. Then we'll know the numbers.

Thanks

jtanguay · « **Reply #9 on:** September 28, 2007, 08:17:41 pm »

yea once we get the numbers, everything will be a whole lot clearer. i've been in a car where the oil buzzer went off and everything was fine... except one thing... the engine was being stupid and gasoline was being unburnt, sliding past the rings and into the oil. so the oil was being thinned out pretty bad.. at one point the engine stalled because there was too much of the thinned out oil fowling up the whole system... after a few hours of draining out of the cyls it started right up again... damn i hate gassers!!! it was a mk2 golf too... :roll:

Trimster · « **Reply #10 on:** September 29, 2007, 08:09:59 am »

Wow... thanks. I was just under that cover when I replaced the water pump... would have been easier then.

Would the outer bearing be leaking if bad? mine is not. But that does not mean the inner one has not gone 'flaky'. If it's the inner one...not having seen where it is, it sounds like a major pain to get at. The outer one comes out with a bearing puller I would imagine and a short one at that with the tight spaces in that neck of the woods.

bob

Quantum TD · « **Reply #11 on:** September 29, 2007, 12:14:56 pm »

Whoa. Never seen an intermediate shaft bearing look like that. Am I incorrect in thinking that the whole motor has to be pulled to replace the bearings?

rallydiesel · « **Reply #12 on:** September 29, 2007, 12:29:27 pm »

Yes, you need to pull the intermediate shaft out and use a bearing puller to remove them.

Vincent Waldon · « **Reply #13 on:** September 29, 2007, 10:35:43 pm »

Quote from: "Quantum TD"

Am I incorrect in thinking that the whole motor has to be pulled to replace the bearings?

There have been reports of people tilting the engine enough that, with a notch taken out of the inside of the passenger fender, they are able to pull the IM shaft and do the bearings.

Me... I'd take it as a sign from Dr. Diesel to invest the weekend pulling the engine... great excuse to cure what ever other gremlins the engine/transmission/clutch are on about.

Trimster · « **Reply #14 on:** October 08, 2007, 09:56:32 am »

Oil pressure gauge installed and working. When the engine comes up to temp it has 25 psi aprox. That's about as close as one can guess with cheap gauges. The manual says 'min. pressure 27psi at 2000 rpm' I have more like 35 at 2000 rpm. At idle (roughly 900 rpm) it's 25'ish and the darn dash buzzer goes off.

So what do we think.... I know it needs a head gasket. IT's blowing lots of air pressure in the cooling system.

Oh, to get from the upper oil sending unit hole to the gauge... it's Rube Goldburg all the way. I wish I could post a photo of the plumbing. It would crack you all up.

bob[/img]