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Engine Specific Info and Questions => IDI Engine => Topic started by: Jetmugg on February 24, 2013, 01:33:30 pm
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Yesterday, I picked up the engine parts that I dropped off at the machine shop a while back. Everything looks great. The shop did an excellent job of balancing all the rods to the pistons, setting all the bearing clearances, polishing the crank, setting up the head, etc., etc.
Here are some pics...
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/DSC_1379_zps98cb494c.jpg)
Reworked stock rods, new small end bushings, ARP bolts installed, resized big ends, and individually weight matched to the corresponding pistons.
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/DSC_1377_zps2791f25c.jpg)
Matching pistons, sized for each bore, and balanced in conjunction with the rods.
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/DSC_1382_zps481b2b07.jpg)
The stock, forged crank only needed to be cleaned up and have the journals polished.
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/DSC_1378_zpse91328a1.jpg)
For reference purposes, the bore sizes are noted on the piston box.
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/DSC_1385_zps0713fb35.jpg)
The assembled head
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/DSC_1387_zpsc1f83d18.jpg)
A view into 2 ports, showing the tapered guides, lightly ported bowls, and 7mm stems.
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/DSC_1395_zps23c91fe5.jpg)
The guest of honor, with head studs, main studs, line honed main caps, and fresh intermediate shaft bearings.
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/DSC_1397_zpscfed021d.jpg)
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/DSC_1400_zpscfcb27e3.jpg)
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/DSC_1402_zps92a13ad2.jpg),
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Very sexy IDI build! Looking great!
Sent from my HTC One X using Tapatalk 2
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The TT 7mm stem valve parts worked out ok? Did you increase the valve sizes?
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Looks good but I bet they could have ported your head quite a bit more around the guides. Let us know if you dyno it. I would love to see what it makes for power.
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Yes, the TT valves worked out. They had to do some mixing and matching of parts to get the right combination, though.
Sorry about posting on the wrong forum - I must have been too excited. ;D ;D
I'm sure there was plenty of room for more porting, but this was basically just a cleanup operation. If/when I get a chance to dyno this engine, I will absolutely post the results.
Next on the $$$ list is a Garrett GT2056 turbo. I need to check my funds, then make the buy.
Steve.
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All hail. Gt2056 good choice which exhaust housing have u chosen? Beautiful parts
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Such a nice motor build!
Kind of a shame what the speed record will do to it...i guess its live a short fast life and go out gloriously
;)
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I'm hopeful that the engine will survive the LSR attemp in good condition. I've already had visions of putting this engine in a small streamliner and going after the 1.5L diesel streamliner record.
Steve.
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In all honesty I don't think it will be hurt a bit. If you test and run it say 10 times. That is only 30 miles. Yes it is all at wide open, but if you have it warmed to operation and cool it down after I bet you could do this several hundred times. The worst parts I bet will be the precups or some part of the head. The block as long as the head doesn't destroy it I bet will be fine.
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My thoughts exactly - the only parts that I'm really worried about are the pre-cups. I have heard of people "peening" them in place, but don't know if that's a good idea or not.
Steve.
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I peened all of mine, when #3 failed the others were loose. I am not trying to clutter your build, just trying to give good input. They didn't coat your pistons? That is something I would for sure do before sticking them in.
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They didn't coat your pistons? That is something I would for sure do before sticking them in.
That is a really good point.
i wonder how the small diameter wrist pins on the 1.5l pistons will hold up...a local rebuilder once cautioned that 1.5l pistons might have problems in a TD because of this difference compared to a 1.6l?
But then again, Kevin had a 1.5l w/ a VNT-17 and it was the weak 1.5l block that failed, not the wrist pins...and he may have set a speed record or two in the process
;)
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I did not have the pistons coated. It's not something that I know a lot about, and decided to keep things a little more on the simple side. I am prepared to learn and spend more if it will help, though.
What can you guys tell me about piston coatings? (cost, who does them, dimensional changes, special precautions, etc)?
Regarding the wrist pins - I was shocked at how "beefy" these pins are. They are very thick-walled. That being said, the small end bushings were pretty well beat on the rods before being R&R'ed. New bushings have been fitted.
Steve
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They didn't coat your pistons? That is something I would for sure do before sticking them in.
That is a really good point.
i wonder how the small diameter wrist pins on the 1.5l pistons will hold up...a local rebuilder once cautioned that 1.5l pistons might have problems in a TD because of this difference compared to a 1.6l?
But then again, Kevin had a 1.5l w/ a VNT-17 and it was the weak 1.5l block that failed, not the wrist pins...and he may have set a speed record or two in the process
;)
i don't think the wrist pins will ever be an issue, high hp gas engines use their stock small wrist pins with out issue.
i agree with theman53 tho ur engine shouldn't have any trouble lasting, as long as u keep all your temps in check u should be golden.
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I just sent an email inquiry to Swaintech regarding having a a coating applied to the piston tops only. The piston to wall clearance is already set, so the diameter of the pistons can't be increased.
Steve.
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I did not have the pistons coated. It's not something that I know a lot about, and decided to keep things a little more on the simple side. I am prepared to learn and spend more if it will help, though.
What can you guys tell me about piston coatings? (cost, who does them, dimensional changes, special precautions, etc)?
The coatings act as a thermal barrier, keeping the heat from combustion in the cylinder where it belongs and where it can actually do work, rather than letting it absorb in to the piston. You coat only the piston top, as that is the only area that comes in contact with the flame front.
Heat = expansion = force pushing down on the piston. Some of the heat is absorbed by the cylinder head, the cylinder walls and the piston itself - that heat is "lost" to the cooling system / oil and doesn't do any useful work. Coating the cylinder walls isn't practical, but the piston top is an easy win and helps with engine longevity as well. Less heat absorbed by the piston means more work done in the cylinder.
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i'd love to try an idi with ceramic coated pistons, exhaust ports, valve faces, head combustion surface, and also to ceramic coat the inside of a prechamber but only the top head part not the inconel insert. i believe the inconel needs to still be able to get hot, who knows. but u maybe just as far ahead to run a tdi since the finnish are revving them to 5500+ and making big power up there... my post became some what unrelated.
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I know what you are talking about. The hi-tech options for engine building are all out there. For my application, I want to give myself the best shot at being competitive against the record, without getting so complex that something gets screwed up.
If I am successful with this 1.5L record attempt, my next goal would be to go after the 2.0L engine record, probably by putting a TDI or M-TDI in the same vehicle. The record in the 2.0L class is 129.xxx, a pretty far cry from the 106 mph in the 1.5L engine division.
Steve.
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This is the turbo that I have ordered, after consulting with my local supplier. ;D
http://www.turbobygarrett.com/turbobygarrett/sites/default/files/default_images/turbogroup/catalog_pdf/GT2056_751578_2_1.pdf
Steve.
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Please do come after the record, the current record holder has a 1.5 tdi that I would love to see run but he won't bring it out until his record had been broken.
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Fascinating. Do you know what they did to build the 1.5 TDI? I understand if you are not at liberty to discuss the details, but that would be a very interesting engine to learn about.
There's virtually no information on the web about their race vehicles, as I have never seen mention of the build details of the truck or the streamliner.
Somebody from Ohio ran against the H/DT record last year, but they must have had mechanical problems. I don't think they ever put together a run over 85 mph or so, and then there were some turnout runs.
I seriously hope that I can be competitive against their existing record. I plan to be at WOS in September, and will put my best foot forward.
Steve.
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I researched the friction coatings and dispite what Swaintech says the skirt film is NOT to be used as a wall clearance builder. It is to be thought of as lubrication and nothing more. The ceramic or whatever it is they put on the tops is fine and that is the coating I was thinking of. Make sure you mark the bottoms with a scratch or something as you will not be able to read the tops when you get them back.
Audi Technologies or Air Cooled Engines Plus in Tiffin Ohio does the coatings as well, but he still has my head from last April, so don't go to him until I get my head back. BTW he was around 20.00 per piston cheaper than Swaintech.
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I can say it was put together with a mix of factory vw tdi and idi parts. The current holder only runs with the Utah salt crew.
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i'd love to try an idi with ceramic coated pistons, exhaust ports, valve faces, head combustion surface, and also to ceramic coat the inside of a prechamber but only the top head part not the inconel insert. i believe the inconel needs to still be able to get hot, who knows. but u maybe just as far ahead to run a tdi since the finnish are revving them to 5500+ and making big power up there... my post became some what unrelated.
The Malone engine I bumped here a few weeks ago stated that he did the inside of the precup and wouldn't do it again. He said it acted like it never warmed up and blew a bit of white smoke, LIGHTLY at idle even warm.
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My thoughts exactly - the only parts that I'm really worried about are the pre-cups. I have heard of people "peening" them in place, but don't know if that's a good idea or not.
Steve.
Please don't "peen" them. If anything, you might research "friction stir welding" in a couple of spots to see if they can be secured better that way. I know dissimilar metals can be welded this way, but not specifically inconel and aluminum.
Anyway, really cool project. I would really like to go out to Bonneville and watch you run.
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The only friction stir welder I have ever laid eyes on is in a metallurgical research lab at the University of Missouri - Rolla. I don't know of any in common commercial use.
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I've wondered if you could put a friction stir welding bit in the chuck of a large drill press, and just stir the edge of a swirl chamber and the head together. Just thinking outside the box here.
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looks like a fun build!
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Looks good but I bet they could have ported your head quite a bit more around the guides. Let us know if you dyno it. I would love to see what it makes for power.
head should have been heavily ported..
that barely looks like they did anything..
did they even blend the bowls to the valve seats?
there is LOTS to be gained from a good port job, especially on the exhaust side, and your exhaust ports look untouched..
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Looks good but I bet they could have ported your head quite a bit more around the guides. Let us know if you dyno it. I would love to see what it makes for power.
Especially on the intake side. The exhaust side flows pretty well stock.
head should have been heavily ported..
that barely looks like they did anything..
did they even blend the bowls to the valve seats?
there is LOTS to be gained from a good port job, especially on the exhaust side, and your exhaust ports look untouched..
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I bought the head second hand. It had previously had some mild porting work performed on it. My machine shop only "cleaned up" some of the work that was previously done.
At this point, I am pretty much committed to setting the engine up with the head as it is. In the future, it would be great to have some serious head porting performed, to see how much of an improvement can be made.
I am hopeful that I can be competitive against the existing record. It sounds like the Winders team (current recordholders) has another engine they have been holding onto, in the event that someone beats their record.
There are a lot of "if" factors right now, but if everything plays out they way I hope, I would set a new record this year, then the Winders team would bring out their 1.5 TDI, up the record again, then I would have a chance to make improvements to this engine before going after the new (higher) record again. It's exciting to think about.
Steve
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Did Giles do your pump yet? I think that they maybe in for a surprise. The revs possible with power on this idi with Giles will be awesome. The 1.9 head with those valves will already flow a ton more than the old 1.5 but my thinking was go all the way. I don't think the 1.5 TDI will have as much stuff up top as the IDI, but maybe I am wrong. Also as you have told us it is more than just engine, so if the rampage is better aero wise you may really shock them.
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The pump I have right now is one that came from a forum member (Smoky Eddy). He did the internal pump work himself, and was running it on a hopped-up 1.9L, feeding it with an electric fuel pump. I think that this pump should be up to the task of feeding my 1.5L Franken setup.
Due to budget and time constraints, I am planning to go to the salt with the pump I currently have. If I fall short, I'll have another year to spend money and collect parts to raise my game for the next attempt.
If I can stay on track, schedule wise, I hope to run at the Ohio Mile in July as a shake-down run, and try to get a chassis dyno session fitted in somewhere along the way.
Steve.
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The pump I have right now is one that came from a forum member (Smoky Eddy). He did the internal pump work himself, and was running it on a hopped-up 1.9L, feeding it with an electric fuel pump. I think that this pump should be up to the task of feeding my 1.5L Franken setup.
Due to budget and time constraints, I am planning to go to the salt with the pump I currently have. If I fall short, I'll have another year to spend money and collect parts to raise my game for the next attempt.
If I can stay on track, schedule wise, I hope to run at the Ohio Mile in July as a shake-down run, and try to get a chassis dyno session fitted in somewhere along the way.
Steve.
pretty sure he has the governor mod done to that, u may just have to play with the timing to get it ideal for the rpm u will be at to beat 106mph.
and lucas u no i used to really believe the idi had an advantage with its revability, and in stock form it probably does, but then i saw some of aki's work haha. maybe everyone has been so obsessed with low end power and tiny turbos on the tdi that they have not realized the true potential. hey u can move more air at higher rpms, more air means more power. but even still, this car is breaking 200hp at only 3700 rpms with a turbo that i wouldn't have even thought would work.
(http://s1.postimage.org/o12chq8zz/lappu.jpg)
i would think the 1.5td could remain competitive with a 1.5tdi it'd would be lovely. to see a shoot out each year between the 2 setups.
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What turbo is on that 1.9? :o
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http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5PT7TrBBMP8 (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5PT7TrBBMP8)
schwitzer/borgwarner s256v it says.
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Not trying to bash smokey eddy, but he is NOT Giles...
if you want a real pump, send one off to Giles..
Eddys pump was basically just a slightly modified stock pump..
Giles calls them SUPERPUMPS for a reason!!
you will never build big power on a stock pump.. 193hp is about all they are ever good for.
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Not trying to bash smokey eddy, but he is NOT Giles...
if you want a real pump, send one off to Giles..
Eddys pump was basically just a slightly modified stock pump..
Giles calls them SUPERPUMPS for a reason!!
you will never build big power on a stock pump.. 193hp is about all they are ever good for.
you will not make 193hp with a stock pump unless you believe in magic.
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Not trying to bash smokey eddy, but he is NOT Giles...
if you want a real pump, send one off to Giles..
Eddys pump was basically just a slightly modified stock pump..
Giles calls them SUPERPUMPS for a reason!!
you will never build big power on a stock pump.. 193hp is about all they are ever good for.
you will not make 193hp with a stock pump unless you believe in magic.
how come its been done then??
Dave cross (935racer, Passenger Performance) has dynod 193hp on a 9mm pump...
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If I can make somewhere in the 125 - 140 hp range, I think I can be competitive against the current record.
Steve.
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The pump I have right now is one that came from a forum member (Smoky Eddy). He did the internal pump work himself, and was running it on a hopped-up 1.9L, feeding it with an electric fuel pump. I think that this pump should be up to the task of feeding my 1.5L Franken setup.
Due to budget and time constraints, I am planning to go to the salt with the pump I currently have. If I fall short, I'll have another year to spend money and collect parts to raise my game for the next attempt.
If I can stay on track, schedule wise, I hope to run at the Ohio Mile in July as a shake-down run, and try to get a chassis dyno session fitted in somewhere along the way.
Steve.
Depending on where and when and IF I ever get my head back I would let you borrow my Brand new Giles Pump. It is not just the first notch Giles either. When he reworked it he put some other parts in it. I know he had some TDI parts in it. My advice to him was "I don't care if I melt it down, I just want it to run."
If you are close in Ohio in July I would come over and possibly we could do a quick timing job with my pump and have an A vs B on the track.
ROR, The pump was 9mm but it was a Giles 9mm pump IIRC. I just bumped the thread not too long ago.
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If I can make somewhere in the 125 - 140 hp range, I think I can be competitive against the current record.
Steve.
125hp is basically do-able on a STOCK engine, with the fueling and boost turned up..
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The pump I have right now is one that came from a forum member (Smoky Eddy). He did the internal pump work himself, and was running it on a hopped-up 1.9L, feeding it with an electric fuel pump. I think that this pump should be up to the task of feeding my 1.5L Franken setup.
Due to budget and time constraints, I am planning to go to the salt with the pump I currently have. If I fall short, I'll have another year to spend money and collect parts to raise my game for the next attempt.
If I can stay on track, schedule wise, I hope to run at the Ohio Mile in July as a shake-down run, and try to get a chassis dyno session fitted in somewhere along the way.
Steve.
Depending on where and when and IF I ever get my head back I would let you borrow my Brand new Giles Pump. It is not just the first notch Giles either. When he reworked it he put some other parts in it. I know he had some TDI parts in it. My advice to him was "I don't care if I melt it down, I just want it to run."
If you are close in Ohio in July I would come over and possibly we could do a quick timing job with my pump and have an A vs B on the track.
ROR, The pump was 9mm but it was a Giles 9mm pump IIRC. I just bumped the thread not too long ago.
You are truly THE MAN. I've got to keep wrenching to get it together for July, but your offer provides a real incentive!!! Thank You.
Steve.
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If I can make somewhere in the 125 - 140 hp range, I think I can be competitive against the current record.
Steve.
125hp is basically do-able on a STOCK engine, with the fueling and boost turned up..
i did 136 crank with just fuel,k24 at 2 bar and front intercooler.
all rest was stock...
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That's good power, no doubt. I have always wondered something about boost numbers. When you say at 2 bar, are you saying 2 bars above ambient pressure, or 2 bars absolute, including the 1 bar of ambient pressure?
To make it work at Bonneville, I need to be able to put out that much power over a 3 mile long course. That 3 miles is going to seem like an eternity with my foot buried on the floorboard for most of it.
I will have an air-water intercooler under the hood, with an icewater tank in the bed.
Steve
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I think 2 bar is his max boost
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These were also probably 1.6L engines not the 1.5 you are running.
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I think 2 bar is his max boost
...so 3 bars absolute pressure, correct? I just want to make sure my thinking is aligned with the numbers people are using.
Steve.
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The Winder's team is a 72 y/o man, his son's only drive for him. The salt is very different to run on. There's another 1.5 diesel team coming next year as well.
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I think 2 bar is his max boost
...so 3 bars absolute pressure, correct? I just want to make sure my thinking is aligned with the numbers people are using.
Steve.
right.
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These were also probably 1.6L engines not the 1.5 you are running.
yes,was a 1.6 diesel mechanical lifters
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The Winder's team is a 72 y/o man, his son's only drive for him. The salt is very different to run on. There's another 1.5 diesel team coming next year as well.
I have the utmost respect for his/their efforts and achievements. The Winders team currently holds at least 6 Land Speed Records in small-displacement truck and streamliner categories (after a quick look at SCTA records). That's a dominant presence in anybody's book.
The previous recordholder (Before Jesse's team) in H/DT was Mike Manghelli, who is also in the absolute upper echelon of LSR racers, holding records in trucks, roadsters, streamliners, and motorcycles. His Rabbit Pickup is on the verge of 200MPH with a VR6 for power. He ran something like 195 with a 2.0L gasser.
Those guys are not lightweights by any means. If it was easy to beat any of their records, someone would have already done it.
This has been a lifelong dream for me, just to get to Bonneville and experience "the fastest place on earth". I''ve read everything I could get my hands on, looked at every photo, seen every movie. I know that some people look at the records and think that it would be easy to break one. I have no misconceptions about that. My primary goal is to be competitive. Of course, in the pit of my heart, I want my name in that record book, just like every else who has ever run at Bonneville.
Last year, I believe at SpeedWeek, a guy from Ohio brought another H/DT entry. I think the name was Aaron's Salt Toy, or something similar (#8217). I never saw a photo or heard a description of that truck, but they are "in the game" as well.
UnderPSI - when you mentioned another 1.5D racer, would that happen to be the USU Aggie A Salt team, who briefly held the I/DS record last year (for about a day), before the Winders boys took it away from them?
In any case, it looks like there's a lot of activity in the smaller displacement diesel classes. It is very exciting. I'm looking forward to this trip of a lifetime in September.
I appreciate all of the help I have received from this board. This is the internet at its best, sharing information that would otherwise be VERY difficult to obtain.
Steve.
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This has been a lifelong dream for me, just to get to Bonneville and experience "the fastest place on earth". I''ve read everything I could get my hands on, looked at every photo, seen every movie. I know that some people look at the records and think that it would be easy to break one. I have no misconceptions about that. My primary goal is to be competitive. Of course, in the pit of my heart, I want my name in that record book, just like every else who has ever run at Bonneville.
In any case, it looks like there's a lot of activity in the smaller displacement diesel classes. It is very exciting. I'm looking forward to this trip of a lifetime in September.
I appreciate all of the help I have received from this board. This is the internet at its best, sharing information that would otherwise be VERY difficult to obtain.
I'm sure everyone on here appreciates helping!! Someone needs to get you a vwdiesel.net sticker for the back window (if anyone still has 'em??)
I'm very much enjoying watching your build process, especially in the 1.5L class. I think folks often underestimate how much you can do with a small engine, especially in "Bigger is Better" America. Hauling a trailer at interstate speeds and still being able to whiz past people with my 1.6TD is pretty darn impressive in itself! Can't wait till you start building things up.
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wont say that the 1.6 speed record look "easy" to beat but it as come in my head many times...
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The Agg team had the record over night, built a 750cc vw diesel at the salt to take that record.
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wont say that the 1.6 speed record look "easy" to beat but it as come in my head many times...
Running a 1.6 puts you in the 2.0 class.
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The Agg team had the record over night, built a 750cc vw diesel at the salt to take that record.
That's real ingenuity! I assume they did the same kind of thing for some of the smaller displacement gasser records. That's one of the quirky/cool things about Bonneville (even though I've never been there). I have read and heard about so many unique engine/drivetrain/vehicle combinations.
The machine shop that did the work on my stuff had recently finished a V4 Chevy (cut down a Chevy V8 to a V4) for another Bonneville racer, that uses Subaru cylinder heads from a horizontally opposed 4 cyl. Wild stuff.
Steve.
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The Agg team had the record over night, built a 750cc vw diesel at the salt to take that record.
VW made a 750 cc diesel? Or did the Agg team cut a 1.5 in half? ???
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That's good power, no doubt. I have always wondered something about boost numbers. When you say at 2 bar, are you saying 2 bars above ambient pressure, or 2 bars absolute, including the 1 bar of ambient pressure?
To make it work at Bonneville, I need to be able to put out that much power over a 3 mile long course. That 3 miles is going to seem like an eternity with my foot buried on the floorboard for most of it.
I will have an air-water intercooler under the hood, with an icewater tank in the bed.
Steve
mine went bout 2 miles before it melted.. was going up hill, @100mph..
EGTs were prolly 16-1800* the whole way up..
3 miles flat out should be no problem..
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The USU Aggie team is using some kind of Chinese generator V-twin engine.
I think what UnderPSI is saying is that the Winders team de-activated 2 cyliders of their 1.5L VW streamliner engine to get under the 1.0L displacement limit for the I-size engine class within SCTA rules. While not exactly common, it is not exactly uncommon to do things like that for LSR attempts.
The Aggies got to hold the record for brief period of time, but the Winders streamliner took it away from them in short order.
Regardless of the duration of the Aggies' recordholding status, they did set and hold a record.
Steve.
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Last night, I pickup this little trinket...
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/GT2056inlet_zpse3005058.jpg)
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/GT2056exhaust_zps5bcb5234.jpg)
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The USU Aggie team is using some kind of Chinese generator V-twin engine.
I think what UnderPSI is saying is that the Winders team de-activated 2 cyliders of their 1.5L VW streamliner engine to get under the 1.0L displacement limit for the I-size engine class within SCTA rules. While not exactly common, it is not exactly uncommon to do things like that for LSR attempts.
The Aggies got to hold the record for brief period of time, but the Winders streamliner took it away from them in short order.
Regardless of the duration of the Aggies' recordholding status, they did set and hold a record.
Steve.
you would think that the pumping losses from having 2!! dead cylinders would be enough to give the engine almost no useable power?!
and WTF are you gonna do with that little tiny turbo? your more than likely going to need something MUCH larger..
that turbo looks MICROSCOPIC, even in terms of VW diesels... appears to be smaller than the infamous K03 even..
i see RESTRICTION written all over that little guy..
or were you planning on boosting your lawn tractor?! lol..
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It's a GT2056.
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... and I suspect that the devil is in the details of HOW they reduced the 1.5 down to .75 Liters to set the existing I/DS record. Perhaps the other 2 cylinders were empty...
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Last night, I pickup this little trinket...
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/GT2056inlet_zpse3005058.jpg)
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/GT2056exhaust_zps5bcb5234.jpg)
Tell us more!!
Is that a GT2056? I am thinking about one of those for my M-TDI build. I'll be very interested to see what you think of it!!
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no way thats a 2056...
Chris and my 2056s are WAY BIGGER..
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I guess it's a matter of perspective. There isn't much else in the photo to compare to the size of the turbo.
Steve
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I guess it's a matter of perspective. There isn't much else in the photo to compare to the size of the turbo.
Steve
i know how big the oil line restrictor is, and every aspect of that turbo is smaller than my 2056vnt..
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The USU Aggie team is using some kind of Chinese generator V-twin engine.
Steve.
you would think that the pumping losses from having 2!! dead cylinders would be enough to give the engine almost no useable power?!
and WTF are you gonna do with that little tiny turbo? your more than likely going to need something MUCH larger..
that turbo looks MICROSCOPIC, even in terms of VW diesels... appears to be smaller than the infamous K03 even..
i see RESTRICTION written all over that little guy..
or were you planning on boosting your lawn tractor?! lol..
What kind of lawn mower is your GT2056 mounted on? LOL.
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http://www.turbobygarrett.com/turbobygarrett/sites/default/files/default_images/turbogroup/catalog_pdf/GT2056_751578_2_1.pdf
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The USU Aggie team is using some kind of Chinese generator V-twin engine.
Steve.
you would think that the pumping losses from having 2!! dead cylinders would be enough to give the engine almost no useable power?!
and WTF are you gonna do with that little tiny turbo? your more than likely going to need something MUCH larger..
that turbo looks MICROSCOPIC, even in terms of VW diesels... appears to be smaller than the infamous K03 even..
i see RESTRICTION written all over that little guy..
or were you planning on boosting your lawn tractor?! lol..
What kind of lawn mower is your GT2056 mounted on? LOL.
maybe its just the pic, but the hot side of my 2056 is held on with 6 bolts, and the hot side is almost as large as the cold side..
my cold side is bigger than a stock T3 cold side..
take a pic of it next to a tape measure, or a lighter, or a pop can..
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... and I suspect that the devil is in the details of HOW they reduced the 1.5 down to .75 Liters to set the existing I/DS record. Perhaps the other 2 cylinders were empty...
yeah i would think so, theres definitely a few things that could be done to remove the pistons, i remember seeing a "portable" air compressor it was a ford v8, one side was basically a 4 cylinder, the other side was 4 a cylinder compressor.
physical size of a turbo doesn't mean much, its all about the wheel sizes and the size of the turbine housing. but i think most advances with turbo technology in the last 20 years have been mainly on the exhaust side. gt2056 is a great turbo on paper, so i would expect nothing but stellar results from this thing.
u gotta keep in mind also that your turbo is probably very different, i would bet it has a different compressor wheel and also that the vnt stuff adds some size to the turbo.
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VNT exhaust housings are muuuuch larger than wastegated housings.
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Since I don't have it in front of me right now, my memory says that the hot side is held on with 4 bolts instead of the 6.
I have no idea about Garrett's part numbering system (2056 vs 2056 VNT). I could not find any 2056v or VNT in the standard Garrett catalog. I suspect this may be due to the VNT's being OEM equipment to Mercedes, etc.
I only know that it's a GT2056, that was the turbo recommended by several sources and my own "homework". It should be up to the task of the HP level I'm looking for, and offer some room to grow.
Steve.
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Since I don't have it in front of me right now, my memory says that the hot side is held on with 4 bolts instead of the 6.
I have no idea about Garrett's part numbering system (2056 vs 2056 VNT). I could not find any 2056v or VNT in the standard Garrett catalog. I suspect this may be due to the VNT's being OEM equipment to Mercedes, etc.
I only know that it's a GT2056, that was the turbo recommended by several sources and my own "homework". It should be up to the task of the HP level I'm looking for, and offer some room to grow.
Steve.
gt is the series theres also gta, gtb, gtx, and so on. 20 is the exhaust size, i think its more of a designation for the turbine wheel family, in this case t2, the 56 is the exducer size of the compressor wheel, but trim size could one of many.
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R.O.R-2.0: you make yourself look uneducated with your some of your comments. Have you ever compared a wastegate turbine housing vs. VNT?
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Last night, I pickup this little trinket...
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/GT2056inlet_zpse3005058.jpg)
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/GT2056exhaust_zps5bcb5234.jpg)
Looks awesome, I want one.
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R.O.R-2.0: you make yourself look like uneducated with your some of your comments. Have you ever compared a wastegate turbine housing vs. VNT?
Best siht to date...
(http://images.wikia.com/uncyclopedia/images/archive/7/73/20070425070816!Roflcopter.gif)
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The Agg team used a Yanmar 2 cylinder on a Jr Dragster with fairing on the front wheels to qualify as a streamliner, neither team new the other were going for that record.
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Looks like the Aggies are stepping up their game this year - all new bodywork, completely faired rearend, lots of new mechanical goodies. According to their FB page, the engine they used is a Chinese copy (probably of the Yanmar).
I think they will be turbocharged this year, as well.
It's good to see some university level attention paid to the land speed racing at the salt flats. Get those kids involved at the grass roots level, learning from the bottom up!!!
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Hell yeah. Get their hands dirty. I can't learn unless my hands are involved
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Getting slightly off-topic, but here's a link to the USU Aggie's blog page for their diesel LSR project.
http://usulsp.blogspot.com/
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love the blog, very awesome.
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R.O.R-2.0: you make yourself look uneducated with your some of your comments. Have you ever compared a wastegate turbine housing vs. VNT?
the cold sides should be basically identical on any of the 2056s tho.. all the ones ive seel, were all very similar, besides this one..
im aware the hot sides are WAY bigger on a VNT.. ive always known that.. but this turbo looks absolutely TINY for a 2056..
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the cold sides should be basically identical on any of the 2056s tho.. all the ones ive seel, were all very similar, besides this one..
im aware the hot sides are WAY bigger on a VNT.. ive always known that.. but this turbo looks absolutely TINY for a 2056..
I've been looking at GT2056 turbos all over the place for days now and this sure looks just like the pictures I've seen everywhere....
:)
On a TDI it should come out looking something like this:
(http://www.squirrelpf.com/turbocalc/graph.php?version=4&pr0=1&pr1=1.07&pr2=1.75&pr3=2.43&pr4=2.43&pr5=2.43&pr6=2.43&pr7=2.43&airflow0=1.8&airflow1=2.9&airflow2=8.1&airflow3=15.7&airflow4=17.2&airflow5=18.6&airflow6=20.6&airflow7=22.6&product_id=24)
I'll be very interested to see how it performs on a 1.5L!
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the cold sides should be basically identical on any of the 2056s tho.. all the ones ive seel, were all very similar, besides this one..
im aware the hot sides are WAY bigger on a VNT.. ive always known that.. but this turbo looks absolutely TINY for a 2056..
Despite the fact that this doesn't look the way you expect it to look, this IS a Garrett GT2056 Turbo - Part# 751578-5002S. It looks exactly the way it is supposed to look.
Steve.
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the cold sides should be basically identical on any of the 2056s tho.. all the ones ive seel, were all very similar, besides this one..
im aware the hot sides are WAY bigger on a VNT.. ive always known that.. but this turbo looks absolutely TINY for a 2056..
I've been looking at GT2056 turbos all over the place for days now and this sure looks just like the pictures I've seen everywhere....
:)
On a TDI it should come out looking something like this:
(http://www.squirrelpf.com/turbocalc/graph.php?version=4&pr0=1&pr1=1.07&pr2=1.75&pr3=2.43&pr4=2.43&pr5=2.43&pr6=2.43&pr7=2.43&airflow0=1.8&airflow1=2.9&airflow2=8.1&airflow3=15.7&airflow4=17.2&airflow5=18.6&airflow6=20.6&airflow7=22.6&product_id=24)
I'll be very interested to see how it performs on a 1.5L!
Yeah I'd even wonder how a gt2259 compares to it. They both appear to be a great match
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Holset HE211W is very simal in size to the GT2056 (wheels, comp.map and physical size). With 1.6td and original head it is just on the limit of surge, slight adjustment on wastegate actuator cures it. With 1.9 head there is mite margin. Your 1.5 might see some surge with this turbo, but loosening up on the pretension on the wastegate will help you. We've dynoed 173whp on 1.6td/1.9td Franken with this turbo and custom 11mm pump so you will be limited on your pump for sure! Unmodified 9mm pump won't get you more tha 110-120whp is my guess based on dyno results from maxed out stock pumps.
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Alcaid:
Thank you very much for weighing in on this topic. I was hoping that you might do so. Based on the turbo map, I was also concerned with being VERY close to the surge line.
In order to ensure that I understand your recommendation, are you saying that the wastegate should be set to open (bypass) more quickly than the stock settings (i.e. lower boost levels), or to set the wastegate to open at higher boost levels (open later)?
I have just about made up my mind, and increased my budget once again, to have the injection pump fully modified. I am going to contact "Dieselmeken AB", who I follow on Facebook, to investigate the possibility of having him do the pump work. I have spoken to Giles in Canada earlier, but want to investigate all options.
Thank you again,
Steve.
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I trust Giles. The Dieselmaken is the guy in the rock and roll pump video that Alcaid had his pump done by. Both are probably equal in ability. One will be much cheaper shipping and I would tell him you are going for LSR and 'maybe' beg for a price difference or partial sponser type deal. It won't hurt, maybe he would give you a deal on a better pump but charge you the rate for the regular super pump? Just guessing things here, maybe Dieselmaken would as well??? Get a price war on the 2 of them LOL. I would think that one of them would want the opportunity to have their pump on a potential LSR record holder.
I am very biased as I am sure Alcaid is as well. I would love to see a Giles pump on your engine and it is why I offered mine to 'test'. Once you get a taste I bet you wouldn't want to let it go.
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I know that Giles is "The Man" when it comes to injection pumps in North America. I am confident that he would do an outstanding job, and is the standard to which others are compared.
I have been following Dieselmeken on Facebook, and have been impressed by what I have seen. It seems that there is something about the Finns, Norwegians, and Swedes that leads them to be excellent diesel builders. Perhaps it is the long, cold winters.
Right now, I am keeping my options open. I have mentally made the leap to open up my budget (again). I hope to hear something from Dieselmeken soon.
Steve.
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giles has certainly proven himself. it'd be interesting to see a dieselmeken pump here tho. its fun to be different.
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I sent Dieselmeken a message - I'm looking forward to hearing his response.
Steve.
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Dieselmeken had 220hp 1,9TD Skoda 10 years ago.
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I have made contact with Goran at Dieselmeken. I think we may be coming to terms. ;D
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I have made contact with Goran at Dieselmeken. I think we may be coming to terms. ;D
Right on man! I hate to see monopolies on anything.. so this will get some competition really going for sure.
(edit, i accidently modified your original instead of quoting.. my bad.)
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Good enough, I am still biased to Giles but as long as you get A performance pump I will be happier than not having one.
Just don't tell your competition where or what you end up with ;D
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I trust Giles. The Dieselmaken is the guy in the rock and roll pump video that Alcaid had his pump done by. Both are probably equal in ability. One will be much cheaper shipping and I would tell him you are going for LSR and 'maybe' beg for a price difference or partial sponser type deal. It won't hurt, maybe he would give you a deal on a better pump but charge you the rate for the regular super pump? Just guessing things here, maybe Dieselmaken would as well??? Get a price war on the 2 of them LOL. I would think that one of them would want the opportunity to have their pump on a potential LSR record holder.
I am very biased as I am sure Alcaid is as well. I would love to see a Giles pump on your engine and it is why I offered mine to 'test'. Once you get a taste I bet you wouldn't want to let it go.
Giles pumps are like crack...
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I have given Goran (Dieselmeken) the go-ahead to build my pump. Nothing against Giles at all, but Goran is going to do the work on this one.
This pump will probably be like Swedish crack.
Expected turnaround time = 1-2 weeks.
Steve.
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I have given Goran (Dieselmeken) the go-ahead to build my pump. Nothing against Giles at all, but Goran is going to do the work on this one.
This pump will probably be like Swedish crack.
Expected turnaround time = 1-2 weeks.
Steve.
swedish crack is just snow :P
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Hey guys, what is the story on these manifolds?:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Golf-Jetta-Cast-Iron-Turbo-Exhaust-Manifold-VW-8V-/160520377540?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item255fc294c4&vxp=mtr
There are plenty of them available for sale.
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http://www.vwdiesel.net/forum/index.php?topic=32901.0
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and keep in mind you need a t25 flange.
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I have given Goran (Dieselmeken) the go-ahead to build my pump. Nothing against Giles at all, but Goran is going to do the work on this one.
This pump will probably be like Swedish crack.
Expected turnaround time = 1-2 weeks.
Steve.
Gotta say Dieselmeken has a well organized shop. How does Gile's shop compare?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tObGyloEzfw
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His 455HP MBZ pump sounds pretty happy too, I doubt you will regret your choice.
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I have a MB 190 with an OM602 Turbo & 5-speed as my daily driver. At some point, I may have him do my MBZ pump as well.
Steve
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I have a MB 190 with an OM602 Turbo & 5-speed as my daily driver. At some point, I may have him do my MBZ pump as well.
Steve
Much envy, outstanding little car. Rather that than a 16v.
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His 455HP MBZ pump sounds pretty happy too, I doubt you will regret your choice.
LIKE ^ ^ ^
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What is diesel keen charging to build a pump?
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If you want details, it's probably best to contact him directly with what you want.
That being said, his pricing is competitive with Giles, with the difference being Goran is providing the pump in the price (I don't have to send him one).
That will allow me to keep the pump I got from Smoky Eddy as a backup.
There will obviously be some price difference in shipping, but that will just be another drop in the bucket for this whole project.
Steve
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Steve, what I meant about the wastegate setting was to shorten the actuator length to reduce the preload on the wastegate flapper. Only needed if you see some surge. Hoping your head will flow enough so that it is avoided.
That generic manifold was used on the 173whp Franken dyno ;) tubular manifold, bigger turbo and ported head going in for this season. I have a sequential compond setup on the way for this season so I guess we will see how much our Dieselmeken pumps will dyno ;)
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If possible, I will run mine on a chassis dyno before going to Bonneville. Otherwise, it will be tested on the "Great White Dyno" - which never lies.
Steve.
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The Dieselmeken pump is complete and is on it's way to the USA!!!
Goran tested it to 3000 pump rpm (6000 engine rpm), and it produces a steady 90cc of output at that level. He assures me that the pump will not be the limiting factor in my setup.
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/SwedishPump_zps626b9026.jpg)
Steve.
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that part number is hard to check on bosch catalogue ;D
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My Dieselmeken pump has 130cc available ;)
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that part number is hard to check on bosch catalogue ;D
Special part# - you have to look under "F".
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My Dieselmeken pump has 130cc available ;)
Just wondering, at what point can we hydro lock these IDI engines? Granted I think the precup would heat up and push its way into the head and get loose beforehand *like mine did* but at some point when will there be too much fuel in the cylinder and it bends rods? 130cc is about 6x the size of the precup volume, so I am just wondering.
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My Dieselmeken pump has 130cc available ;)
Just wondering, at what point can we hydro lock these IDI engines? Granted I think the precup would heat up and push its way into the head and get loose beforehand *like mine did* but at some point when will there be too much fuel in the cylinder and it bends rods? 130cc is about 6x the size of the precup volume, so I am just wondering.
Diesel fuel ignites and turns into a compressible gas, meaning it won't hydro lock. Although peak cylinder pressure will get too high at some point. I have Rosten H-beam rods and a crank girdle to keep the bottom end safe, ARP studs to keep the head bolted in place but at some point something will fail. Don't want to find that limit though ;)
A friend dynoed with 38psi of boost with stock rods and stock head bolts, no harm done ;)
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Any more information to share regarding that bottom end girdle?
Steve.
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My Dieselmeken pump has 130cc available ;)
Just wondering, at what point can we hydro lock these IDI engines? Granted I think the precup would heat up and push its way into the head and get loose beforehand *like mine did* but at some point when will there be too much fuel in the cylinder and it bends rods? 130cc is about 6x the size of the precup volume, so I am just wondering.
Diesel fuel ignites and turns into a compressible gas, meaning it won't hydro lock. Although peak cylinder pressure will get too high at some point. I have Rosten H-beam rods and a crank girdle to keep the bottom end safe, ARP studs to keep the head bolted in place but at some point something will fail. Don't want to find that limit though ;)
A friend dynoed with 38psi of boost with stock rods and stock head bolts, no harm done ;)
I understand the ignition properties, but at some point we "could" have too much fuel for the air and not all of it would get burnt I would think. I guess this is the PCP you are speaking of that I am thinking would be hydro lock, but I guess if it is no longer a liquid it wouldn't be. Proper question is at what point is too much fuel turn into a PCP that is too much?
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If you are at the point of more fuel than air, then add more air :p
Regarding the girdle: http://www.vwdiesel.net/forum/index.php?topic=27133.0
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I would say somewhere around 16cc per cylinder would hydrolock. Of course that would be theoretical. There would have to be some room for air.
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the pump is rated @ 90cc/min i believe.. not 90cc/stroke..
think of it, the pump plunger would need to be the size of a honda 90 piston to put out 90cc/stroke!
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That's good thinking right there. I got a little carried away. :o
Steve.
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Actually pumps are rated in cc / 1000 strokes
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Actually pumps are rated in cc / 1000 strokes
That's even better thinking.
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Actually pumps are rated in cc / 1000 strokes
thank you.. wasnt sure if it was a timed reading like gasser fuel injector flow, or something else..
90cc/stroke sounded out of the question..
90cc/min sounded more plausible..
but 90cc/1000strokes, that makes ALOT more sense..
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looks like just what you need, although they are really really light.
http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?5998497-BFI-020-Clutch-Kits-amp-Billet-Flywheels (http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?5998497-BFI-020-Clutch-Kits-amp-Billet-Flywheels)
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I will probably end up with one of the BFI flywheels. I already have a 210mm pressure plate & clutch setup.
Steve.
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i had no idea they had those billet wheels, im thinking they just now came out?
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Where are you at with this mr jetmugg
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World Of Speed is Sept 7-10. I am working on this deal every day. It WILL be done, and will run at World of Speed, I just don't have a lot of time to spare between now and then.
Engine and trans are in the truck. Yesterday, I got the throttle linkage and clutch cable worked out and adjusted. Tonight I will fab up the radiator mounts. Intercooler is mounted and plumbed. The 2" tubing shown in the photo was replaced by 2.5" tubing over the last week.
There's still plenty to do, but it's within sight.
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/null_zps1a10934c.jpg) (http://s468.photobucket.com/user/Jetmugg/media/null_zps1a10934c.jpg.html)
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/null_zpsc123f6f0.jpg) (http://s468.photobucket.com/user/Jetmugg/media/null_zpsc123f6f0.jpg.html)
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/null_zpsdc95fd4e.jpg) (http://s468.photobucket.com/user/Jetmugg/media/null_zpsdc95fd4e.jpg.html)
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/null_zps665b17c4.jpg) (http://s468.photobucket.com/user/Jetmugg/media/null_zps665b17c4.jpg.html)
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/batteryholddown_zpsf45b3389.jpg) (http://s468.photobucket.com/user/Jetmugg/media/Dodge%20Rampage/batteryholddown_zpsf45b3389.jpg.html)
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/disconnecthandle_zps53017aed.jpg) (http://s468.photobucket.com/user/Jetmugg/media/Dodge%20Rampage/disconnecthandle_zps53017aed.jpg.html)
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/DSC_1779_zps17ecebd9.jpg) (http://s468.photobucket.com/user/Jetmugg/media/Dodge%20Rampage/DSC_1779_zps17ecebd9.jpg.html)
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/DSC_1750_zps74217268.jpg) (http://s468.photobucket.com/user/Jetmugg/media/Dodge%20Rampage/DSC_1750_zps74217268.jpg.html)
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/DSC_1748_zpsa97eead7.jpg) (http://s468.photobucket.com/user/Jetmugg/media/Dodge%20Rampage/DSC_1748_zpsa97eead7.jpg.html)
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/DSC_1768_zpsb1aedc0d.jpg) (http://s468.photobucket.com/user/Jetmugg/media/Dodge%20Rampage/DSC_1768_zpsb1aedc0d.jpg.html)
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A few more pics - need to upload more...
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/DSC_1758_zps248227f4.jpg) (http://s468.photobucket.com/user/Jetmugg/media/Dodge%20Rampage/DSC_1758_zps248227f4.jpg.html)
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/DSC_1753_zps3f789663.jpg) (http://s468.photobucket.com/user/Jetmugg/media/Dodge%20Rampage/DSC_1753_zps3f789663.jpg.html)
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/DSC_1790_zps9e2995d8.jpg) (http://s468.photobucket.com/user/Jetmugg/media/Dodge%20Rampage/DSC_1790_zps9e2995d8.jpg.html)
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/Bedbatteryandcooler_zps3bfb5426.jpg) (http://s468.photobucket.com/user/Jetmugg/media/Dodge%20Rampage/Bedbatteryandcooler_zps3bfb5426.jpg.html)
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i think 0.95 wouldnt be enough advance...
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On a performance pump like mine and his .95 maybe too much for the high rpm, but not too too much that it is horribly bad. Giles told me between .90 and .95, his pump builder probably did the same. The only thing I would do different is take that red line at 5500 rpm and move it to 6,000 :D
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Woow :o
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Very clean!!
Love the industrial grey engine and bits.
Carry on
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A quick follow-up post for now:
The 0.95mm at TDC setting was suggested by the pump builder (Goran at Dieselmeken AB) as a good starting point. This engine also has one of Giles' performance cams installed which makes for a unique combination of hardware. It's not a well-established science for where exactly the timing should be set on a 1.5 bottom end/ AAZ head / performance cam / performance pump, but 0.95mm will be the starting point.
I'll keep a very close eye on EGT's, and should have time to adjust pump timing and boost based on how the truck runs at Bonneville. (4,300 ft altitude). This will be new ground for me. If anyone has tuning tips, I'm all ears. There are not a lot of Land Speed Racing diesel folks around.
Regarding the gray paint - thank you very much. I was definitely going for the industrial look. The engine compartment is not as well detailed and tidy as my mind's eye thought it would be, but I'm getting into crunch time on this project, so the level of cosmetic details has definitely slipped a bit lately. Everything is still 100% functional, but just not as well detailed as if I had really taken my time.
Steve
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The Dieselmeken pump is complete and is on it's way to the USA!!!
Goran tested it to 3000 pump rpm (6000 engine rpm), and it produces a steady 90cc of output at that level. He assures me that the pump will not be the limiting factor in my setup.
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/SwedishPump_zps626b9026.jpg)
Steve.
i have some special pump whic provide over 400cc feed/1000 stroke and redline is 6200rpm !
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Yeah, but is it over 12" long?
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orginal wv/bosch case,only special internal parts.
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[/quote]
i have some special pump whic provide over 400cc feed/1000 stroke and redline is 6200rpm !
[/quote]
That sounds like a VERY large amount of fuel. What engine is this pump fitted to?
Steve.
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a few more pics, now that I have worked out the radiator, fan, shroud, clutch and throttle cables, and I'm starting to sort out the electrical system...
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/DSC_1808_zps062e3cbf.jpg) (http://s468.photobucket.com/user/Jetmugg/media/Dodge%20Rampage/DSC_1808_zps062e3cbf.jpg.html)
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/DSC_1810_zpse59e0ce1.jpg) (http://s468.photobucket.com/user/Jetmugg/media/Dodge%20Rampage/DSC_1810_zpse59e0ce1.jpg.html)
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/DSC_1812_zps94bc2356.jpg) (http://s468.photobucket.com/user/Jetmugg/media/Dodge%20Rampage/DSC_1812_zps94bc2356.jpg.html)
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/DSC_1814_zps6e114557.jpg) (http://s468.photobucket.com/user/Jetmugg/media/Dodge%20Rampage/DSC_1814_zps6e114557.jpg.html)
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/DSC_1804_zpsd67dfc3f.jpg) (http://s468.photobucket.com/user/Jetmugg/media/Dodge%20Rampage/DSC_1804_zpsd67dfc3f.jpg.html)
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^^^^ HAWT. Looking great, can't wait 'till you are ready to make some passes!
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sweet. The funny thing is everyone looking in will be wondering what engine you have if they are from the US. We never got the aaz and the 3 bolt valve cover kinda looks like the AHU, but not wavy in the front. They will definitely be curious I am sure. Hope to see a first run soon.
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Where's your speedo? Wearing it?
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Where's your speedo? Wearing it?
Hahahaha. For some reason i pictured a rapper like flavor flav with a speedometer around their neck
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speaking of speedos, that reminds of when i went to the beach earlier this year with a few buddies of mine. we had stayed for a week in ocean city, md. we kept seeing this guy on the beach every day, and he always had a couple of girls talking to him, and they were different girls each time. so i asked him, how he does it, how does he always have different girls talking to him. he told me ever since he started wearing the speedo it just attracts them. so i bought a speedo and tried wearing it to the beach the next day but i didn't get any attention(to anyone that has met me, u already know i am quite handsome) so that was weird. i went back to mr speedo and told him it didnt work. and he told me that his secret was that he puts a potato in his speedo. so i went back to our hotel room and grabbed a potato, and then spent some more time on the beach. but i still i didn't get attention from any girls. so i went back to mr speedo, and i told him hey man, i tried the speedo, and the speedo with the potato and its not working out for me, he looked me straight in the eyes and said, hey man the potato goes in the front.
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hahahahahahahahahahahaha!
Seriously though - Jetmugg, that is so clean I want to. . . well, . it's just super that's all, super.
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Yes, the potato definitely goes in the front. ;D
I will be using a Garmin 500 as my speedometer. It will be mounted to the center of the dash. I also have a tach that will be mounted to the top of the dash. My aim point for shifts will be 5,500 rpm, and then I'll run to whatever rpm I can hit in top gear.
1 month from today (September 7, 2013), I'll be on the salt.
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I fired the engine for the first time last night. Here are a few short videos. In the first video, the diesel noise you hear at the very beginning is from my Mercedes, which is being used to provide jump start boost to the battery in the Rampage. It started pretty easily, but does have a bit of a fuel leak (I didn't have the right injector loop return lines), and an oil leak around the valve cover.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YNp8WfyXBjs
Here's a video of the first drive around the block, including all the excess fuel and oil which had run down onto the street. Note the satisfying black puff of smoke.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tiFDCbwFsMA
Last video for now - returning from the initial drive...
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FLIB_fcg0Is
There are plenty of details to sort out, but at least it's a runner now. It seems to have PLENTY of power, much more than any Rabbit I've ever driven, and more punch than my Mercedes 190 2.5 Turbo / 5 speed setup.
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Awesome that yours sounds like it revs like mine. I and the turbo sounds almost the same at lower speeds like that. Mine misses at start up as I did some stuff with the compression. Once warm I am sure you will have no issues like me, as on the return trip it sounded fine.
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Like the man said in vid2..."bad ass"
;D
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sounds healthy and bad ass!!!!
also sounds like a record breaker, or better yet a record setter.
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Once I get some of these leaks under control - by installing the correct injector loop lines, and a new valve cover gasket, I'll get it out and run it a bit more.
I will also be running a "stack" type exhaust up through the bed of the truck, trying to keep the black smoke out from under the chassis.
I was very pleased that there was not a lot of blow-by. I ran a Moroso "puke tank" fed by a clear plastic hose from the valve cover breather to the tank. There was a little bit of oily residue in the tube, but no liquid condensed in the puke tank.
Goran at Dieselmeken watched the video and said that I might want to increase the advance a bit, but to let the engine break in longer before messing with it.
The engine felt very strong, and is more than willing to rev up. I'll definitely keep the board posted as to the record attempt.
Steve.
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All I can say is Wow
Even backwards - woW
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Thanks, Guys. ;D
I still have a considerable list of things to get done over the next 3 weeks, but getting it running and driving was a major milestone.
This forum has been super-valuable in getting my knowledge at least up to the level of getting this thing to run.
Steve.
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Now are you going to pay someone to drive it and get it really loosened up? Freer the engine is the faster it will be. Can you put wheel covers, belly pans, and what not on the truck or does it have to remain basically as it would come off the floor? ....nevermind answering that as you may have already, spend your time working on that thing and answer me later :D
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I need to do a couple of things to make it more driveable (fix the leaks, put a windshield in it).
Then I can drive it around town a bit. I have classic/antique license plates, and Hagerty Insurance.
Yes on the wheel covers. I have a full set of Moon disks. No on the belly pan (not allowed per the rulebook).
Per the rules, all the factory sheetmetal has to be "all stock panels, mounted in original relationship to one another" -i.e. no chopped tops, etc. Streamlining (belly pans) is not allowed, nor is filling of body seams. Removing mirrors is OK.
What's running through my head right now is how high an EGT I should be willing to live with. I have an air/water intercooler, which will be fed by icewater, a fairly unrestricted exhaust (2-1/2" tubing with no muffler), AFCO aluminum radiator, and a pretty good sized oil cooler.
I have a mechanical boost controller (basically a small regulator) that I can use to "fool" the turbo wastegate if needed.
Any recommendations regarding maximum EGT for a run of 3 miles at WOT?
Steve.
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Here's a photo of a guy who is at Bonneville right now, trying to raise the record. He's made about 8 passes so far, but hasn't cracked the 100 mph speed yet.
(http://www.scta-bni.org/Bonneville/SpeedWeek%202013/Photos/Aug11/DSCN0967.JPG)
I have no idea what kind of engine combination he's running, only that it's less than 1.523L, which is the limit for the class.
I'm hoping that my Rampage will be more aerodynamic than a stock bodied VW Caddy.
Steve.
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itd be nice to see what he is running just from curiousity. but i know some people take it the engine building much
i think theres definitely an aero advantage as your truck looks like it sits much lower, plus the front appears alot more aerodynamic.
not to mention i wouldn't be surprised if your truck dynoed at over 200whp
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I'd like to put it on a chassis dyno before heading to B-ville, but the time crunch might get me.
If I was guessing, I'd estimate more like 140 HP, which should be enough power "on paper". As we all know, the race is not run on paper. It's run on the salt.
Steve
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it would depend on many things, but you definitely have a setup that is capable of much more than 140hp.
i think how much boost u want to run is the main thing. i vote 30psi haha.
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It's my intention to adjust boost levels as needed, based on the EGT's, and whether or not I'm above the existing record.
I'd like to start out on the conservative side and "creep up" the power and speed. I don't want to blow it up too early in the game.
If it gets close to the end of the meet and I haven't been able to get the power I'm looking for, the I'll definitely turn up the wick as much as needed. (Go big or go home).
Steve.
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.. no more then 1250f for the first 2 miles.. and what ever makes more power for the last..
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Did you coat your pistons and head with the thermal coating like I did? If so the only worry is the heat soak into the coolant and oil. I agree with CRSMP5 that you should hold it lower until the final measured mile and make sure to let it idle for a good long while before powering it down. I wouldn't recommend this for street but you are going for a record and if you have everything coated as I did then I think you could hold that 1250f for as long as you wanted maybe even higher like a 1400f, but it would be nice to save some for the last mile. I wouldn't be worried to head into the 1600f range for a record attempt.
Being that you have a pretty nice GT2056 you may have a hard time getting it up there. My pump was re touched by Giles and is delivering way more fuel than the IDI 9mm pump previously did, but with the turbo I have the EGT are 1/2 of what they were with the K24. With the pump you have and the turbo to move the air I would say you have the possibility for 200 is there. It will be up in the RPM range but I bet it will be there.
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There are no coatings in this engine.
It would have been nice, but at the time I would have needed to get the coating done, I was feeling like I had a few too many irons in the fire. I was getting a bit overwhelmed with the various options, and decided to forego the coatings.
I have another AAZ head that I picked up. That head may get a nice porting job and thermal coating before next year, along with pulling the pistons out for the same type of treatment.
I'm trying not to get too far ahead of myself, but my mind is constantly swirling about this stuff. Thanks for the EGT recommendations. The 2 gauges that I have positioned right in front of me in the truck are EGT and Oil Pressure. Those 2 variables will the the ones that I think demand the highest level of attention.
I'm willing to spin it as high as it will go in top gear. I'll have 2 transaxles with me (different ratios), and 2 different pairs of tires (different diameters), so I can mix and match depending on how the initial setup works.
Steve.
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Theres room to grow with your engine for sure, u still have stock cam too right? Either way i dont doubt at all that u can set a record, im sure it is harder than it sounds but u have a pretty serious td there
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I have one of the performance cams from Giles.
He was happy to be part of the effort, made me a great deal, and has become a sponsor for my #672 H/DT entry.
Steve.
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Ok woot woot!!!!
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this is about how to squeeze 104mph from a 1.5 diesel... its that last 1mph they are going for.. if ts stood for this long.it must be really hard.. :D and i give thumbs up on that. my kubvan been there by gps with the 1.9 tdi-m... gassers no issue... that little 1.5... thats all he has.. alt rotation.. tire weights... all kinds of things you have to get max from for that last ittle bit..
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The guy with the white Caddy (Aaron's Salt Machine) managed to eek out a speed of just over 106 mph yesterday. If my count is right, that was on his 11th run of the meet. :o
I tip my hat to him.
I have not heard if he was able to "back it up" this morning in order to establish a new record. As of yesterday, the record was 105.581 mph.
If Aaron was able to run over 105.581 again this morning, he's the new recordholder.
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But u have no idea of the specs of the other 2 trucks are?
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Yeah it would be real nice to know if they had an old K24 on there or if they had a VNT 15 or if they have the same turbo as you. If they have your turbo and a stock pump even then you have a serious advantage. And they all probably do not know what you do about the AAZ head and the cam in it, so I bet your engine is up to task...it is the rest of the areo and driving that looks to be the limits. But as Rabbit Jockey has shown me turbo selection is huge on these engines in terms of what kind of fuel you can run. Obviously you can run a stock pump past the fuel collar they put on but if you don't have enough cool air you will melt it all down. Your turbo IIRC is pretty big for a 1.9 TDI, Large for a 1.6, so it should be really happy for your 1.5.
BTW if you need spare parts of stuff you don't have but would like to take with you let me/us know...I have collect enough junk to build about 3 complete engines in a pinch.
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I don't know any of the details of the #8217 Aaron's Salt Machine, other than this is his second trip to the salt. He's not active on the landracing board, and apparently he hasn't run at the Ohio mile, either.
A lot of the land speed racing guys "hang out" at the landracing.com forum, but not everyone.
I do know that the recordholder as of yesterday (maybe still today, depending on the #8217 back-up run) is a family/team from Utah. They hold plenty of records in gasoline and diesel classes, including a diesel streamliner. Their family name is Winders.
One of the guys on this board (UnderPSI) says that the Winders team has another engine (a 1.5L TDI) that they will run if someone breaks their existing record.
Obviously, I'd like to be the person who breaks their record, but if #8217 did it today, then I'm happy for them, too.
I have total faith in both Giles and Goran in terms of the parts they have supplied. I have total faith in AMT Racing engines, who did all the machine work on the engine. I think the Rampage has pretty good aerodynamics, at least as far as pickup trucks are concerned.
There are a million things that could cause problems. I'm trying to address as many as possible, and some good luck will also be needed.
I don't want to come across as too cocky, but I think the Rampage / 1.5L/1.9 VW Frankendiesel has the potential to run up around 120 mph after it's all sorted out.
The current 2.0L diesel truck record stands at 129 mph, which was set by an AAZ in a Dodge D-50 pickup.
TheMan - thank you very much for your offer, and I may take you up on it. Right now, I'm trying to figure out how much extra stuff to bring, without completely filling the trailer full of spare parts. It's hard to know when to say "when".
Steve.
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Know anymore about the aaz car?
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A while back, I talked to a family member of the guy who set the 2.0L record. The guy who actually drove the truck passed away a few years ago, and they haven't run the truck since then.
Steve.
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I've been burning a lot of midnight oil lately, getting this thing done in time for World Of Speed.
Here are a few quick pics....
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/DSC_1833_zps0ca24eb1.jpg) (http://s468.photobucket.com/user/Jetmugg/media/Dodge%20Rampage/DSC_1833_zps0ca24eb1.jpg.html)
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/DSC_1838_zps31485832.jpg) (http://s468.photobucket.com/user/Jetmugg/media/Dodge%20Rampage/DSC_1838_zps31485832.jpg.html)
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/DSC_1841_zpsd1c6798d.jpg) (http://s468.photobucket.com/user/Jetmugg/media/Dodge%20Rampage/DSC_1841_zpsd1c6798d.jpg.html)
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/DSC_1844_zpsb95b149d.jpg) (http://s468.photobucket.com/user/Jetmugg/media/Dodge%20Rampage/DSC_1844_zpsb95b149d.jpg.html)
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/DSC_1847_zps67026ddb.jpg) (http://s468.photobucket.com/user/Jetmugg/media/Dodge%20Rampage/DSC_1847_zps67026ddb.jpg.html)
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/DSC_1849_zps674091df.jpg) (http://s468.photobucket.com/user/Jetmugg/media/Dodge%20Rampage/DSC_1849_zps674091df.jpg.html)
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/DSC_1853_zps64033f50.jpg) (http://s468.photobucket.com/user/Jetmugg/media/Dodge%20Rampage/DSC_1853_zps64033f50.jpg.html)
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If salt is like dirt then you will probably run some toe out? Looks good, but do you really want the pipe up that high in the wind, you can't take it out the back?
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I'd Love to hear it run ;D
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I'm going to cut the exhaust stack off flush, or just below the roofline. There is a rule regarding stack height.
It's considered "polite" to run vertical exhaust with these diesels, so as to avoid smoking out the people behind or alongside you in the staging lanes, during the engine warmup. The "gasser" guys don't like getting a face full of black smoke while you are warming up in the staging lanes.
This will blow white smoke for a minute or so after initial startup, then clean up.
A romp on the throttle sends a satisfying cloud of blackness into the sky.
It sounds different with the exhaust run up like it is now, as compared to when I ran it with only the down pipe. I'll have to make another recording.
When listening at the engine compartment, it sounds like a lot of diesel clatter.
At the stack, the sound is much deeper, most likely due to the 2-1/2" straight pipe.
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Sounds like you have the same thing going on as I do. The engine is real tractor sounding but the exhaust is deep. CRSMP5 said he could hear me coming to his house from up the street LOL.
How many miles do you have on it? Ready to run it hard yet? What about the spare parts list LOL.
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I have about 2 miles on it so far :o
I've been too busy taking care of the items that are must-complete before departing for Utah. It's a scramble, just trying to keep the little odds and ends moving forward and making sure that I haven't missed any critical items.
Hopefully, by this weekend, I'll have a chance to make some harder acceleration runs. It is street legal (plates and insurance).
I won't be able to fully wind it up in 4th gear, but I hope to get a decent idea of how hard it will pull while running through the first 3 gears. If it pulls hard at 4,000 rpms and up in 3rd, then I'll feel pretty good that it will behave in a similar manner in 4th.
Steve.
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Regarding spare parts, I think I'm just going to take another transmission, some injector lines, hoses, wires, and gaskets.
If anything like the cylinder head or something in the block goes bad, I'm pretty well screwed, and will have to wait for another opportunity to run, probably at The Ohio Mile.
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where is ohio mile and when? few of us here might show up for support with enough notice.. :D
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The East Coast Timing Association runs the Ohio Mile in Wilmington, OH.
The schedule is shown on their website. I thought they had an October or November meet, but it looks like the last meet this year is at the end of Sept. They typically start in April.
http://ecta-lsr.com/
There are classes for lots of different kinds of vehicles. It would be great to see a bunch of VW diesels at one of their events!
STeve.
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well plan it out.. we will show... :D there has been talks of a forum gtg... this type of event could stage such a weekend... so next season...
wish you the best on your run.. your street legal thoughts is where mine would be on 3rd gear pulls... good reving gassers good for 80-85(7-8k) in 3rd with good ratio tranny.. so if you can pull 70ish.. you got a chance to wind it up to tripple number.. then its all wind, friction ans stuff that really starts effects.. my old 82 coupe the doors would flap the tops on at silly speeds... the solid 84 does not.. :P
ive got a great 5 mile upgraded hill with little poiopoo that you could do a speed run on.. if you can do 80 on it.. flat no issue at 100...
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well plan it out.. we will show... :D there has been talks of a forum gtg... this type of event could stage such a weekend... so next season...
wish you the best on your run.. your street legal thoughts is where mine would be on 3rd gear pulls... good reving gassers good for 80-85(7-8k) in 3rd with good ratio tranny.. so if you can pull 70ish.. you got a chance to wind it up to tripple number.. then its all wind, friction ans stuff that really starts effects.. my old 82 coupe the doors would flap the tops on at silly speeds... the solid 84 does not.. :P
ive got a great 5 mile upgraded hill with little poiopoo that you could do a speed run on.. if you can do 80 on it.. flat no issue at 100...
Just checked the schedule and if it is cheap enough I would drive it down there and run my junk if you are going to be there. I didn't see a diesel car class but I bet it is there somewhere in the 4400 classes they advertised. It would be 2 hours from me south on 71 it sounds like. They only take your speed for a 132foot pass at the end of the mile it said, so that wouldn't be too hard on the car I wouldn't think.
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I don't think I'll be able to make the September meet this year, my credit card will still be recovering.
However, I definitely intend to run at Wilmington in the spring of 2014!
I'll get more information, but pretty sure they have "street" classes as well as SCTA/ECTA defined classes.
Steve.
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Here's a quick cut-and paste from ECTA's Ohio Mile Car safety requirements:
These are just some of highlights of the safety requirements for cars; you will need to purchase a rulebook to ensure your total compliance.
To go to 135 MPH:
Speed rated tires
Three point seat belts
Long Sleeve shirt/jacket
Long Pants
Snell 2005 or 2010 full-face helmet with face shield
Once you get above 135 mph, then the 5-point harnesses, fire suits, etc. become mandatory. I'm guessing that not many of our vehicles will be in position to crack 135 mph through the standing mile (but I'd love to be proven wrong).
Steve.
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I run H rated tires and all the factory stuff is in place, also have long sleeved attire, so all is well there. Do they have a grace as I haven't tried to go that fast with this engine and don't know if it could, but I would love to try. Do they ban you if you break out?
At any rate you should get the truck broken in an freed up as much as possible before the salt. I am approaching 1,000 miles with mine and it is starting to loosen up a bit. It would be great if you had over that on yours when you go out there. You will find many problems in those first 1,000 miles at least I did, and it should run better for you.
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Here's a short, low-res video shot last night, with the Rampage "rolling a little coal".
I still have to calibrate the tach. Goran from Dieselmeken says the pump is good to 6,000 rpm. It was reading a little over 5,000 on the tach when it started going soft.
Sorry about the quality of the video.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6p8EYJ7BfH8
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cool. Love it.
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When are you going to dyno? :)
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The first dyno session will be on The Great White Dyno, which never lies.
I'm departing for Bonneville next Thursday, and still have plenty of items to take care of before then. It won't see a chassis dyno until well after the World of Speed meet has concluded.
I have driven somewhere in the neighborhood of 10 different diesel automobiles (not counting trucks). Mostly MB 190's, 2.2's, 2.5's, 2.5 Turbos, a couple of 300D and 300D 2.5 Benzes, and 3 or 4 different VW Rabbit/Golf diesels.
At 1.5Liters, this Rampage is far and away the hardest accelerating of the bunch. It builds revs in a BIG HURRY, at least in 1st and 2nd gear.
Fully winding out 3rd gear is a possibility before departing for Bonneville, but high RPM's and 4th gear are going to have to wait.
I'm guessing/hoping for 140 HP. On paper, that should be enough to be competitive against the current record. However, the race isn't run on paper, it's run on the salt flats.
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140 ::)
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for some reason i think jetmugg doesent bealive in the power capabilities of this engines lol
140 hp was what i had with just k24 at 2 bar,intercooler and fuel turned all way up...
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I will be conservative I am sure at saying 190 hp.
But as he says you can have a 1,000hp but the salt track it what matters when it comes to speed record.
Jetmugg get as many miles, pulls, and whatever else you can before you head out. My engine is nearing 1,000 miles and it is pulling harder the more miles I put on it.
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I'd rather estimate low and have some "left over" power (at least from a peace of mind standpoint).
It's going to be a tough mental exercise to keep my foot to the floor for 3 straight miles.
Looking at the tach, pyrometer, oil temp, water temp, etc., it's going to seem like an eternity.
I've seen plenty of dyno pull videos, most of them last about 10 seconds at power.
This will be more like 1-1/2 - 2 minutes on the floor, from a standing start.
Steve.
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well, i will say, malone had a similar setup in his mk3 golf, it was a 1.6 rather than a 1.5, but other was very similar, i think his turbo was a hair smaller than your as well tho it was a gt20. his awic wasn't even working, it was plumbed in but had no water in it, and he was able to do 140whp with a gtech, which reads lower due to wind resistance. so like i said, as long as you are not shy with the boost and fuel, u will definitely exceed 140hp. just keep your egt's safe and make us all proud at the salts!
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I'd rather estimate low and have some "left over" power (at least from a peace of mind standpoint).
It's going to be a tough mental exercise to keep my foot to the floor for 3 straight miles.
Looking at the tach, pyrometer, oil temp, water temp, etc., it's going to seem like an eternity.
I've seen plenty of dyno pull videos, most of them last about 10 seconds at power.
This will be more like 1-1/2 - 2 minutes on the floor, from a standing start.
Steve.
maybe just try to stay conservative with temps, idis notoriously run hot.
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why not try to wind it up to a good speed,let it rest for a bit then hammer it the final(and recorded)miles?
i can go forever on the highway cruising above 160km/h without the temperatures go over 80ºC
or do you feel that you don't have enough space to get it to high speed without full throttle all the way from start?
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I think larger powered (still vw 4 cylinders) engines would labour to just casually get up to max speed in a short two miles.
80-90.. maybe no big deal.. but the record is only 105.581 mph. Clearly it is a hard thing to do.. I don't think it will be easy! BTU DAMN AM I EXCITED!
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The current recordholder and the previous recordholder are both very well known names in Land Speed Racing, with somewhere in the range of 20 LSR records between them.
Guys like that know what it takes to get the most out of any vehicle/engine combination, and have many years of experience.
This will be my first time on the salt.
My goal is to be competitive against the existing record, and get as much speed as I can out of this thing.
I've got 2 transmissions and 2 sets of tires, giving me a total of 4 different final drive ratios. I'm willing to switch anything and everything if I find that I can't "pull the gear" as I approach top speed.
Thanks for all the support and help, guys.
Steve.
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Did you ever figure out if the one guy beat the said record earlier this year or not?
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This will be my first time on the salt.
Thats gotta be a great feeling, all the prep, the calcs, the work - this will be one of those unforgettable bits - best of luck!
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Did you ever figure out if the one guy beat the said record earlier this year or not?
He did not. The guy had one run that would have qualified him for a record run, at 106.2 mph or something like that, but he didn't back it up with a second run.
I saw that he made something like 11 or 12 passes during SpeedWeek, and just had the one run over 106.
Here's a few more pics, it's getting very close now!
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/DSC_1855_zpsfc7027c1.jpg) (http://s468.photobucket.com/user/Jetmugg/media/Dodge%20Rampage/DSC_1855_zpsfc7027c1.jpg.html)
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/DSC_1854_zps2de2f9bc.jpg) (http://s468.photobucket.com/user/Jetmugg/media/Dodge%20Rampage/DSC_1854_zps2de2f9bc.jpg.html)
More than 1 person has suggested some kind of VW emblem on the hood. I'm thinking of something like "Mopar Makes It, VW Shakes It"
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Wow! Your car looks so professional. Very nicely done! I think you have an excellent chance at breaking the record. I would suggest adjusting your gearing so you're running around 5000 rpm at your estimated max speed. Chances are the power will drop off quickly after that. Good luck! 8)
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Bring some diesel purge too LOL. I know mine feels faster running a bottle of that in the tank, but it could melt you down as I don't know if it runs hotter or not.
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I'd say SportWagwen badges on the hood bulges carry both VW and Mopar heritage.
Do you have blanking plates for the headlights?
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Are you running a lift pump?
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As far as any fuel additives, none are allowed. You have to use "event diesel" which they provide, and then they seal the tank.
As far as headlight covers, only OEM units are allowed. For this model, they are extremely rare. I have been looking for 1-1/2 years, and have not seen a single pair come up for sale at any price.
Lift pump - I'm using a Mr. Gasket electric diesel-rated pump, mounted in the bed, just downstream from the fuel cell.
Steve.
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Lift pump - I'm using a Mr. Gasket electric diesel-rated pump, mounted in the bed, just downstream from the fuel cell.
Have you observed the feed pressure at the pump under WOT conditions?
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Lift pump - I'm using a Mr. Gasket electric diesel-rated pump, mounted in the bed, just downstream from the fuel cell.
Have you observed the feed pressure at the pump under WOT conditions?
Furthermore did the MEKEN say you needed to run one to support this pump at 6000?
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I'll have to go back through my notes. As I recall, the MEKEN didn't specifically tell me to do so, but I asked him about running a boost pump, and he told me to go ahead and run the electric pump.
I don't have a fuel pressure gauge before the pump. The pump is rated at 4-7 psi pressure, and 35 gph flow.
I guess if I feel like I'm running out of fuel, I can borrow one of those big Holley pumps.
Steve.
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I don't have a fuel pressure gauge before the pump. The pump is rated at 4-7 psi pressure, and 35 gph flow.
I would think that you would have over 0.5 gpm (30 gph) just coming out of the return on the pump at 4000 RPM, nevermind the fuel being injected into the engine.
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you shouldn't run out of fuel with the lift pump, as the IP pulls fuel too. I am running one and have no condition where it seems I run out of fuel yet.
I keep forgetting the "do over" of backing it up. You should be able to crush that record especially if you hold it down to the melting point of EGT, but then if you melt it down no back up. I guess no matter how hot you run it I would let it idle for at least 5 minutes to let all the hot spots equalize in the engine and intercooler setup before p0wering down. Too bad you haven't really seen what the EGT are in a full pedal scenario as you maybe able to give the fuel screw a boost.
Make sure if I haven't told you to already to run either Redline's Water Wetter or some other equivalent in both your AWIC and the Rad. It will help pull the heat out of the engine and help the coolant cool down past the rad. I don't know which brand is best today I know redline, royal purple, Lucas Oil, Hyper lube and others all do the same thing I believe. That should help you be able to run it to the floor longer as the entire process will be cooler.
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I got Lucas in mine.. worked great.. not the 20* they claimed though ;)
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I'm running the pink colored Water Wetter in the radiator. That's a good idea about running it in the intercooler circuit also.
I have the EGT gauge and oil pressure gauges mounted front and center on the dash. I figure those two are the most critical, so I'm keeping them right in front of my face.
Steve.
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Does anyone know if the water-wetter mixes with Pentofrost? I'd hate to have a weird chemical reaction in a brand new system.
I like the idea of running it in the WAIC as well.
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I know water wetter redline and the super coolant brands say they will mix with every type of coolant on the market. I have it in my TDI with the G12++ or whatever it is and it works fine.
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I know water wetter redline and the super coolant brands say they will mix with every type of coolant on the market. I have it in my TDI with the G12++ or whatever it is and it works fine.
Cool - thanks
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Got the tach calibrated today. I'm using a "W" terminal alternator, feeding a Dakota Digital converter box, running to an Autometer tach.
Calibrated it with a handheld tach against the injection pump shaft.
Took it for a little spin, and it had no problem winding up to an indicated 5900 rpm in 1st and 2nd gear.
Loading up...
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/DSC_1866_zps9d83deef.jpg) (http://s468.photobucket.com/user/Jetmugg/media/Dodge%20Rampage/DSC_1866_zps9d83deef.jpg.html)
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Amazing!!!!
Best ride ever...good luck
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So clean!
I know you have tons of stuff on your mind but, any chance you're going to have a video camera inside?
One on the salt and one on your grinning face would be cool ;D
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Call us if you need us :D Post lots of pics and videos
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I have a GoPro camera mounted to the roll cage. It will mount just to the right of my right shoulder, which will look out the front of the truck and should simultaneously show the gauge readings. I'm hoping to use that as my "poor man's data recorder" for post-race analysis of rpm's, speeds, temperatures, etc.
A friend of mine told me that he's going to loan me his GoPro as well, which I can shoot video of me driving the truck. I'll have to wait and see if he comes through on that - there's a lot of stuff going on right now. The same friend is setting up a live audio feed from the salt flats. He is going to broadcast the "official" radio feed, which is normally only heard on the salt (low power FM). I'll try to post a link to the live webcast, which should be through saltflats.com and/or landracing.com.
Steve.
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I have a GoPro camera mounted to the roll cage. It will mount just to the right of my right shoulder, which will look out the front of the truck and should simultaneously show the gauge readings. I'm hoping to use that as my "poor man's data recorder" for post-race analysis of rpm's, speeds, temperatures, etc
I would be surprised if the gopro will be able to properly expose the windshield area and the gauges. It will probably be one or the other, unless the gauges are very brightly lit up.
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Sweet. Let us know when you will be racing and see if you can upload anything.
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I should be able to upload any video footage when I get back to the hotel each night. Saturday morning will be rookie orientation and tech inspection. I hope to be able to make my first run(s) down the course on Saturday afternoon. If I qualify above the existing record, the "record", or back-up runs all take place first thing in the morning on the following day.
Steve.
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i so cited
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Steve.
Your truck looks really great and you have put so much effort in to it.
I've been following your thread for a while now and I just wanted to say, I wish you the best of luck and have safe travels shattering the
record!
Josh
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As far as any fuel additives, none are allowed. You have to use "event diesel" which they provide, and then they seal the tank.
As far as headlight covers, only OEM units are allowed. For this model, they are extremely rare. I have been looking for 1-1/2 years, and have not seen a single pair come up for sale at any price.
Lift pump - I'm using a Mr. Gasket electric diesel-rated pump, mounted in the bed, just downstream from the fuel cell.
Steve.
They allow a custom nose on the truck and custom wheel covers but only allow OEM headlight covers? I guess I don't understand the purpose of these rules.
What size fuel lines are you using with the Mr Gasket fuel pump? Why is it mounted in the bed? These pusher pumps works best when mounted low.
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stock nose... not allowed any body mods.. hence no hedlight covers.. think he speking of the 1 year only areo style headlights.. my guess 86.. as usa no allow till 86 officially.. 85 jetta got them a year sooner then most.. one of the reasons for westy golf/mk2 front ends...
s0 ill guess they had a euro style headlamp he seaks for so he can get rid of the cups that hold them now...
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[/quote]
They allow a custom nose on the truck and custom wheel covers but only allow OEM headlight covers? I guess I don't understand the purpose of these rules.
What size fuel lines are you using with the Mr Gasket fuel pump? Why is it mounted in the bed? These pusher pumps works best when mounted low.
[/quote]
There is no custom nose allowed. The Rampage bodywork is 100% stock, just lowered. Diesel Truck is essentially a "Production" body class, no body modifications other than removing mirrors and minor trim are allowed. Tonneau covers which extend no higher than the edge of the bed rail are also allowed.
Engine swaps are allowed.
As far as I can tell, the reason OEM headlight covers are allowed is that you could have purchased a Rampage from your local Dodge dealer back in '84 with the headlight covers already installed.
Moon disks are allowed for all Bonneville cars. Nothing says "Land Speed Racing" quite as clearly as a set of Moon disks.
I'm running a 5/16 fuel line from the electric fuel pump to the filter housing. The pump is mounted in the bed, because the fuel cell is mounted in the bed. The pump is mounted just under the level of the fuel outlet on the cell.
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i rember the covers now... kinda like a mad max clear panel he had over his... think they even had white lines on them...
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Thanks for all the support and help along the way, guys. I really appreciate it, and draw energy from other people's input.
Just to clear up any confusion, this vehicle is a Dodge Rampage with a VW Turbodiesel engine.
It is not a VW Caddy, although the two vehicles share a lot of physical similarities.
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Never heard of a Dodge Rampage before. Will have to look it up.
I believe you're Mr Gasket pump is similar to the Airtex solenoid pump (with similar specs) that I have taken apart. These pumps pulses at around a 20 hz rate. There is a disc valve inside with 4 very small openings. When the solenoid pump is off, the disc valve would act as a restriction. When it is pumping, I wonder if it is capable of outputting higher gallons per hour then the IP's transfer pump?
It would be interesting to take runs with and without the solenoid pump to see which gives a higher top speed.
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Just got some very bad news - the World of Speed meet has been canceled for 2013 due to water on the courses.
Everything looked great as of last weekend, but they had a line of storms roll through, and have been forced to cancel.
Steve.
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NOOOOOO!!!!! :'(
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I'm getting my mind around it.
There is one more meet at Bonneville this year - scheduled for Sept 30th - October 4th. I'm setting my sights on that week.
Steve.
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Absolutely wonderful build! I am rootin for ya! Most turbo talk is still greek to me, but one day I will have the chance to dive in! When funding permits, I will learn ;)
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Hey atleast that gives you more time for some shake down and to get the engine broken in and see what rpms it is strongest at
You have the whole forum cheering for you. This is definitely one of the best builds to grace this forum.
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That stinks and is good. If you get it broken in it will run better but you could have been racing this weekend. Oh well. I am cheering all the way for you. Start ripping down the road on it and get 1,000 or more miles on it, you have a month.
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Bitter sweet indeed. I'm looking forward to seeing your "extra" updates as a result of the extra time.
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No such element as Extra Time. Like unobtainium. All time is sucked into the void of usefulness and thus productivity spins the world around.
Too bad on the cancel but yes bittersweet if you don't blow it up between now and then.......
\\\\Practicing\\\\\
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Mannnnnnn...... :(
But good...make that great things come to those who wait (whether by choice or not as the case may be)
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looks like I chimed in a little bit late :( your time will come!
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It's going on the chassis dyno at a local Technical College tomorrow night. ;D
I will be pleased if it can lay down over 140 hp at the wheels. I'd love to be surprised with a larger number, but that would be a very strong start.
Steve
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will you be able to tweak boost and fueling during the tests?
how much boost are you currently running?
;) ;) ;) can't wait to hear the results.
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The fuel screw is essentially maxxed out right now. I can definitely adjust the wastegate settings, and pump timing between dyno pulls.
I'll have a friend with a video camera along for the testing, and I have a GoPro camera mounted to the roll cage, which I'll keep pointed at the gauges.
Steve.
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Itd be interesting to see different boost levels. When powered by spearco dynoed his he went at multiple boodt levels, it was interesting at low boost 10psi or so his power did not drop off at all as he approached 6k.
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It will be very fun, exciting, and nerve wracking, all at the same time.
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heres some dyno threads, maybe you can get an idea of what to expect?
http://www.vwdiesel.net/forum/index.php?topic=22112.0
http://www.vwdiesel.net/forum/index.php?topic=28825.0
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My guess if we are taking them is 175hp-190hp. Hope you make it cannot wait until I see what you did and when you get to run.
Remember too I think you will have 5-10hp more once it is good and broken in/loosened up and that is what my guess is for.
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OK, I've got something hopefully mean, and definitely green in the trailer.
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/null_zpsbdf13a67.jpg) (http://s468.photobucket.com/user/Jetmugg/media/null_zpsbdf13a67.jpg.html)
Dyno test & tune is tonight. I have a GoPro on the roll cage, and a separate camera to shoot video from outside the truck.
Steve.
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don't forget to report some numbers in real time
i am so anxious ;D
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I'll have my GoPro installed in the truck's cab, a second video camera outside the vehicle, and my iPhone in my pocket.
I'll try to post numbers as soon as they are available, with as much follow-up video and dyno sheets as possible.
Steve.
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also just noticed your diesel dodge pick up is pulling your diesel dodge pick up.
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Yep, and I have a diesel Mercedes Benz waiting at home. I'm all diesel at this point.
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Best of luck with your pull.
Will this make her a dyno queen till she gets out on the salt?
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And? And?
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And? And?
And?
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I dont want to stay up past my bed time for this but i will if i have to
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167hp 4600rpm
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Awesome! :o
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I made 4 or 5 pulls (can't remember exactly). I will have video(s) loaded up tomorrow, with screenshots of the dyno results. I'll have to wait for the reports to be emailed to me.
My boost controller wasn't doing what I wanted it to (because I didn't have it plumbed correctly).
The dyno at Ranken Technical College was pretty sophisticated. The instructor plugged in some values for weight of the Rampage, some aerodynamic estimates, estimated altitude data for Bonneville. This was all intended to load the dyno as if I were actually on the salt flats.
I ran up through 1st, 2nd, 3rd, and into 4th gear. We started all the pulls at about 2000 rpm, then I rolled into the throttle until 5500 rpm or so.
With 30 pounds of boost, the turbo power hit HARD! Even in 4th gear, it pulled very, very strong, up to 120 mph on the dyno.
I'll take some time to upload videos from the external camera, GoPro camera, and probably a few still photos. It was a very good night!
All in all, I was extremely pleased with the performance of the whole setup.
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That is pretty impressive at such a low number RPM. I figured in the 1.5 you would have a little more than that but it would be in the low 5,000 rpm to 5,500 rpm range. Did you turn up the fuel at all or just leave the screw where it was. Either way that is 27hp that you didn't think you had and at a lower rpm. So you may not have to run it as hard as you thought?
How many miles do you have on it now and does it feel nice and freed up or is it still really tight?
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well stock, the 1.5 made 48hp. so you have made 3.5 times that at the wheels rather than the crank, that is very impressive. it will be interesting to see the dyno plots too. but even more interesting to see you shatter the bonneville record. it'd be sick if you could beat the 2.0 record with your 1.5
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I think I could have spun more rpm's with a lower gear ratio in the trans.
I hit 120 mph on the road-simulation dyno, pulling a simulated load (as if it were actually running on the salt flats).
With lower gearing, it definitely would have hit higher engine rpm's.
On paper, and on the dyno, I should be able to be competitive against the existing record. Of course, the kicker is that the race isn't run on paper or on the dyno. I have to make it happen on the salt flats, and anything can happen out there.
Steve.
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I need to get a number in my head for EGT that I'm comfortable with.
I want power, but I don't want to burn the thing to the ground.
I hit as high as 1400F, maybe a little more, on an early pull.
It actually stayed cooler with full boost than with the boost somewhat regulated. I need to re-plumb the regulator with a "bleed" line to give the excess pressure in the wastegate line somewhere to go.
Steve.
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I bet the 2056 you are running doesn't have a 360 main bearing. I didn't realize how big a difference that makes. It lets the turbo spool earlier and for me it took away all the residual heat that I normally had prespool, since it spooled just a fuzz earlier. Also, if you were running the stock wastegate then there is tons more to be had.
Yeah plumbing that in should look like Turbo to LDA, to boost controller, to wastegate.
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yeah more boost should make it run cooler.
are you allowed to run water/meth injection? that could help alot
were all runs at 30psi? did you play with fueling or timing at all? i would not want to push egts on an idi, for fear of dropping a swirl chamber.
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http://www.squirrelpf.com/turbocalc/index.php?version=4&target_peak_power=195&pr_ref=14.696&engine_disp=1.5&engine_disp_factor=0&target_af=18&bfsc=0.36&max_ic_loss=1.7&rpm_redline=5500&rpm_peak_power=4600&rpm_max_boost=3000&rpm_min_boost=2000&vol_1=89&vol_2=93&vol_3=90&vol_4=87&vol_1=89&vol_2=93&vol_3=90&vol_4=87&intake_temp_1=90&intake_temp_2=120&intake_temp_3=135&intake_temp_4=140&turbo_n=1&map_sel0=24 (http://www.squirrelpf.com/turbocalc/index.php?version=4&target_peak_power=195&pr_ref=14.696&engine_disp=1.5&engine_disp_factor=0&target_af=18&bfsc=0.36&max_ic_loss=1.7&rpm_redline=5500&rpm_peak_power=4600&rpm_max_boost=3000&rpm_min_boost=2000&vol_1=89&vol_2=93&vol_3=90&vol_4=87&vol_1=89&vol_2=93&vol_3=90&vol_4=87&intake_temp_1=90&intake_temp_2=120&intake_temp_3=135&intake_temp_4=140&turbo_n=1&map_sel0=24)
my guess as to where you're at, considering drive train loss.
(http://www.squirrelpf.com/turbocalc/graph.php?version=4&pr0=1&pr1=1.07&pr2=2.03&pr3=2.99&pr4=2.99&pr5=2.99&pr6=2.99&pr7=2.99&airflow0=1.7&airflow1=3.6&airflow2=8.6&airflow3=15.1&airflow4=18.6&airflow5=21.1&airflow6=23.5&airflow7=25.1&product_id=24)
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I was only able to run at about 16 psi, which is the as-delivered condition for this turbo, or at 30 psi, with the WG essentially choked off.
I didn't have good control of the boost level, as I had not incorporated a "bleed" for the excess boost in the air line feeding the regulator.
I'm trying to upload video to Youtube, which is moving in super-duper-slow motion.
When I'm done uploading, I should have both in-cab video, hopefully showing the gauges, and a separate out-of-vehicle video footage, showing the truck on the dyno and the appearance of the exhaust.
I have a couple of screenshots of the first dyno test, but it wasn't the "best" dyno test results.
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How much power on 16psi?
How many questions am i allowed to ask
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I don't remember how much power at 16 psi. Seems like it was in the 140's.
I'll have to wait to get the full dyno results sent to me.
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Ask as many questions as you like, and I'll try to keep up.
Basically, the students and instructor were running the dyno, and I was just operating the truck.
There was plenty of brainstorming and BS-ing going on. It was a great night for gear-heads.
I'm still trying to upload to Youtube - it's stuck on 0%. I might have to bail out and start over.
Steve.
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Screen shot from the first dyno pull, only running to 4500-ish rpm
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/null_zps8b339435.jpg)
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Tabulated numbers from the first pull
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/null_zpsd4ec7411.jpg)
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Wow, nice work.
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Video link...
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1NYikOly9S0
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That's great. Your little 1.5 IDI is putting out 175ish ft-lbs of torque @ 2500 rpms. That's better than a stock 1.9 eTDI. 240 ft-lbs max is excellent.
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Did you have an ice bath for the intercooler coolant?
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Yes, I have a 48 quart cooler in the bed of the truck. I started with 20 pounds of ice and 2 gals of water. After 3 dyno pulls, all the ice had melted. At that point, I put in at least 10 more pounds of ice.
Steve
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Was that compressor surge 27-32 seconds in the video?
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I don't know about surge, but it was building boost very quickly at that point.
I want to get the corresponding video from inside the cab posted this evening. That video should show rpms and boost, but may not be able to see the EGT's from the GoPro footage.
Does anyone know a way to directly embed the video link in this forum software (so the video appears directly in a forum post). I can't figure it out.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1NYikOly9S0
Steve.
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that is definitely a concerning sound. but it could just come down to the acoustics of the room or something, but i'd be wanting to look in to that.
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I think that was a "full boost" run, with the wastegate essentially blocked off (unintentionally due to improper plumbing). I hear the sound you are describing, but don't have a good idea what caused it or what to do about it.
I know that I need to get the boost controller plumbed properly, so that I actually have some way to control the boost.
I don't know that running the full 30psi (never opening the wastegate) is "proper". I'm thinking that I should be a bit lower than that on boost, while still retaining the ability to adjust it as needed.
Steve.
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did you notice that sound during the dyno session?
the only thing you can do about that sound if it is surge is to either increase flow or lower boost pressure, that or get an antisurge compressor housing(ported shroud)
proper working wastegate should help make more power and low egt too.
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I would definitely like to see what the EGT, boost, and RPM were at that point. Seems like there is a little bit of smoke until it lights the turbo. It also seems like you are short shifting it a bit, if you let the Rpms climb a bit more so there is a bit more flowing through the engine you might not get that smoke as bad and it may help light the turbo.
BTW, great work on getting it done and hopefully having a shot at this.
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I don't know about surge, but it was building boost very quickly at that point.
I want to get the corresponding video from inside the cab posted this evening. That video should show rpms and boost, but may not be able to see the EGT's from the GoPro footage.
Does anyone know a way to directly embed the video link in this forum software (so the video appears directly in a forum post). I can't figure it out.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1NYikOly9S0
Steve.
I don't think our forum supports it. There is no way to do it that I have found yet, hence the random safe youtube video thread in the general section just linked.
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On my boost regulator, I had to file a tiny notch in the ball seat, much like a bleed, but internal.
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Re: Short shifting - I totally agree that winding out each gear will be better on the salt. The dyno guy wanted me to short shift so that I could get into 4th gear at less than 2000 rpms, then "roll on" the power from there.
One of my weekend projects is to re-plumb the boost controller, in the hopes of having some control over it.
The biggest question in my mind is still "How high should I let the EGT's climb on the salt?"
I'm going to do some work tonight, trying to get the GoPro footage loaded, edited, and YouTubed.
Steve.
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On my boost regulator, I had to file a tiny notch in the ball seat, much like a bleed, but internal.
Very interesting. I have not heard of this before. Can you share any additional info?
Steve
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OK - here's the in-cab video for the same dyno pull (I think). The clarity of the gauges is not great, but you should be able to tell what's going on.
The gauge on the far right of the dash is boost. Straight up on the needle (12:00 position) is 25 psi.
The far left gauge is EGT. Straight up on that gauge is 1250F.
Straight up on the tach is 6,000 rpm.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cC_moP40R5A
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I would definitely like to see what the EGT, boost, and RPM were at that point.
When I have experienced surge in the past the boost gauge would pulsate with the engine RPM because more air physically could not be pushed in.
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I cannot tell what is going on in my screen. I think you could do many miles with 1250f
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My MBC is and adjustable steam valve form Mc Master Carr about like so
http://www.dempseybowling.com/perform/grainger.htm
I forget what I actually did to it, ( tiny triangle file maybe?) but I had to make a small groove where the ball closes.
It's been on there probably 6 years without me having to service it in any way.
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http://www.ebay.com/itm/Voodoo-III-MBC-Manual-Turbo-Boost-Controller-0-30-PSI-Subaru-WRX-STI-BRZ-Legacy-/271019372012?_trksid=p3284.m263&_trkparms=algo%3DSI%26its%3DI%26itu%3DUCI%252BUA%252BFICS%26otn%3D21%26pmod%3D271236669834%26ps%3D54
similar to what I use. the wastegate remains closed until the spring is pushed past the point of bleeding to the wastegate. You lose no spool time since you are not bleeding boost off. It is contained until it opens to the wastegate then the wastegate instantly opens and modulates the boost where you have it set. The bleeding type work but you lose air so you are also loosing boost before and after the wastgate open. Also, learning more about turbos and overspeeding, to get to the upper limits of your turbo the more open your bleed type would have to be, the more your turbo is pushing to the air and wasting, the more it could be out of its efficiency range. Just some things to think about. Search ball and spring type boost controllers if you are interested.
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http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=320597&page=2
also some reading about EGT. This is the tdi crowd but still there are similarities to our engines.
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All righty then. Thanks for the information and links. I have some homework to do now.
I need to get all my dyno reports as well, since I can't remember the exact HP numbers when running 16 Lbs boost.
My gut tells me that somewhere between 16 and 30 is a sweet spot where I can make good power, not have the turbo "hit" really hard, and hopefully avoid any surging or barking.
Steve.
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It would not be particularly difficult to create an electronic wastegate controller that would limit boost based on rpm to keep below the surge point.
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It sounds too tough for me to accomplish before next weekend, however.
I am thinking about running the mechanical boost controller to my switch panel instead of in the engine compartment.
In theory, I could reach over and adjust the maximum boost during a run if necessary.
Any more thoughts on maximum EGT for a flying mile?
I completely agree that 1250F is a safe number to run over the course of a 3 mile run, but I think I may have to push harder than that.
How about 1400F for a mile at something above 110 mph? (roughly 35 seconds)
Steve.
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The ball, spring, and seat type boost controller looks like it may be a better option than the "pressure regulator" type I currently have.
If I'm understanding the ball, spring, and seat type, it is basically acting like a pop-off valve. It doesn't allow any air to pass until the pressure on the "supply" side is higher than what is required to keep the ball on the seat.
I think I might go ahead and order one from ebay today, with the hopes of having it with my for my departure next Saturday.
I checked the TDI forum - the kind of EGT numbers those guys are throwing around seem WAY too high for what I've read about the IDI engines. I am a rookie at this stuff, but from what I've heard, the limiting factor for our engines is the precups coming loose from excessive EGT's. I just don't have a good feeling for how hot is too hot.
Steve
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I agree with the EGT thing. I think a constant 1200f is good, peaks of 1600f and back down to 1200f wouldn't scare me as that is what I had on my last engine that lasted 40,000 miles before dropping a precup. Also with the 1.9 head you have a bigger precup which I think is part of the problem in performance 1.6 builds with 1.6 heads. The precups are built for a 52hp engine not a 200hp engine. IMHO anyway. I think the bigger precup the better down to around 16:1 compression. I have little build knowledge but if you look at pulling tractors this is where they strive to be. Less than that they have running issues, more and the egt and boost fights peak performance.
Yes you are exactly right on the ball and spring setup. If you wanted to run 25psi and had it set for that there could be 20psi on the input side and 0psi on the wastegate side. I cannot tell you how accurate it is but usually once it is set I don't mess with it. You can get it close with an air compressor. If they come with 2 springs as mine did use the bigger one. The little one you will never see over 12psi with it.
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Also, there are 2 basic types of regulators, bleedin and non bleeding, perhaps only one or the other works as a boost controller.
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Thanks. I guess those regulators are tune-able by adjusting the preload on the springs, then?
Tell me if this sounds like a reasonable idea....
While I'm on a record attempt, keep the boost on the low side (say 18 psi), until I get past the possibility of surging, then adjust the controller to allow 30 psi once I'm up in the rpm range higher (say above 4000 rpm or so).
Does that seem reasonable?
Steve.
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Also, there are 2 basic types of regulators, bleedin and non bleeding, perhaps only one or the other works as a boost controller.
Talking to the instructor at the Tech College where I ran the dyno test, he said that it depends mainly on the type of wastegate that is being used. They had a Camaro drag car with a turbo LS1 in their shop at the time I was there. Their wastegate had some kind of air bleed built into it.
The wastegate actuator on this Garrett GT2056 is sealed, no bleeder. It stands to reason, then, that the regulator must provide the path to bleed off excess boost, unless one of the ball and seat type controllers is used.
Steve.
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If you could find an old Greddy profec b (not the spec2) line this link they are great. You can set it up for internal or external wastegate, and whether there is a chance of boost creep or not. Run on spring pressure (controller off) and have a low and high setting. and adjust how hard the boost comes on. They are not as common now a days but when I was running my RX7 I had one and it was great. They used to have a steering wheel mounted button to toggle between low and high boost modes. The come with a stepper motor to regulate boost.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/GREDDY-PROFEC-B-ELECTRONIC-BOOST-CONTROLLER-e01-b-avcr-avcr-evc-type-s-turbo-ebc-/111148426270?pt=Car_Audio_Video&hash=item19e0f6641e&vxp=mtr
Guy explains installation and setup.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kIwMYK_jaO8
Justice
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I think the surging will go away to a point if you shift further up the rpm. You had all that load and no rpm so in theory if you shifted at 4500rpm and got back on it the engine will be eating up some of that volume of air that was possibly making it surge. By the looks of the map there is nothing you will be able to do to make it completely go away.
Yes the ball and spring *at least mine did* have the spring inside itself. You don't have to touch the waste gate. The rubber hose in the pic below you would cut in two and add it in there. I would add enough hose so you could adjust it in cab as it is sucky to have it under hood as I do. I would set it to your max boost and leave it, if it were me.
(http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/Jetmugg/Dodge%20Rampage/GT2056inlet_zpse3005058.jpg)
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Steve, what I meant about the wastegate setting was to shorten the actuator length to reduce the preload on the wastegate flapper. Only needed if you see some surge. Hoping your head will flow enough so that it is avoided.
That generic manifold was used on the 173whp Franken dyno ;) tubular manifold, bigger turbo and ported head going in for this season. I have a sequential compond setup on the way for this season so I guess we will see how much our Dieselmeken pumps will dyno ;)
Looks like Alcaid already had a method for your surging too.
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Its pretty easy to have 2 stage ball and spring by having a vacuum switching valve either bypass, or switch between 2 of them.
Mine the case halves are fine thread with a locknut to adjust spring preload...the ebay one an external bolt does the same thing
Restrictor and bleed style works too. The mechanical Cummins guys all seem to go that way.
My D24 hits 1450 at full load for the last few years, and I haven't had to look at the pistons in awhile. I do have to back off a bit on long grades, or my coolant heats up. i can run at 1250 all day, and the gauge sits in the middle.
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thats a fail IMO to not mount the boost controller so you can adj while driving...
now how to set a boost controller.... stop with what you think... and relearn...
you know how to set your regulator on your oxy-acetaline torch? you light it up.. then adjust to the flow you seek?
same thing on the boost regulaor... your looking for the spot you want i tto open at... once you get there.. you have to reduce the boost pressure to close it.. or tun up the regulator for more boost...
if it were mine... id mount it to the shifter.. point it to the side so it works like a throttle on a bike.. that way as you cruize.. you can adjust it and even put stop points on it so you can dial down the boost and increase it as you do your pull and with end points made up you can readjust between shifts.. never having to look at it.. or "reach" for it per say...
i have mine mounted by my knee... out oi the way yes.. but i can grab i with little effort i fneed be..
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By the looks of the map there is nothing you will be able to do to make it completely go away.
If you made an electronic control with an n75 controller for the wastegate and rpm and boost inputs you could open the wastegate to prevent surge and place that line on the compressor map right up the middle of the efficiency islands.
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The flaw in my earlier thinking was not realizing that the regulator needs to restrict FLOW, not PRESSURE. This is not an open system, so I need to give the excess somewhere to go.
Check this video of a guy running at Bonneville in a '64 Mini Cooper....
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O2VHyMAv1dU
He starts adjusting the boost controller about the 2 minute and something mark.
I think I'll do something like this, but possibly mount the regulator on my switch panel.
Steve.
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what he is doing is manipulating the boost once at foot to floor trying to get that little more he can... id almost assume he has a vnt type of set up where he is playing with the vnt aspect of dialing the turbine in for best time...
the thing i dislike is how he looks to be reaching for it... im still thinking a t handle shift knob with regulater built in would be best comfort/ease imo..
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The ball and spring type has approx. a .001" hole in the side so that it will not hold the spring open. It is almost exactly what you are looking for an electric control being perfect, this is the next best thing. It shuts off all flow to the wastegate and you are not loosing boost during that time.
http://www.ebay.com/gds/NXS-Manual-Boost-Controller-Installation-Install-Guide-/10000000004194851/g.html
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I think I'm gonna try a ball and spring instead of a regulator.
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I just got a boost gauge on mine recently, and I've had a ball and spring MBC on there for a while now..
It would turn out I have been boosting my GT-15 to like 30psi! So I knocked it back on the MBC, you can watch it get to about 15 in about a half second, drop to 10 (wastegate opens) and then keep on rolling to 25psi if I keep on it.
Shweeeet. No exhaust restriction, and MAD BOOST BROTHA! Now I need an IC to take HUGE advantage of that ability.
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Congrats on the great numbers and a successful dyno session!
Thumbs up for the NXS Boost Controllers (ball and spring type) from me. I've used them several times and they regulate very well, even up to 45+ psi if turbo and engine can take the beating ;)
I've seen up to 1830°F EGT on a 1.6TD, but that's crazy high, 1400°F should work OK in the long run but watch your coolant temperature.
With your relatively low compression ratio, 30psi is just a walk in the park, I would aim higher but it all depends how much fuel you are able to get in there with your pump. No need to boost more than what's needed to clear the smoke and keep EGTs at a sane level. Looks like your governor is kicking in a bit early since HP curve flattens out. A friend just did a governor mod on a 11mm Dieselmeken pump with great success and it's pulling much harder on top now.
The 56mm 55 trim Garrett compressor you are running now is not what I would've used on a 1.5 IDI. You need more surge margin and both Holset and Schwitzer compressors with anti surge housings are more in the direction I would go. 360° thrust bearing is a must-have in high boost applications. Spool isn't all that essential for you either so a bigger turbine wheel and housing to keep EGTs and back pressure even lower would be worthwile.
Saw this green monster in the last edition of the DieselPower magazine, a shame though that they thought it was a TDI build and didn't write more about your IDI engine.
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I just got a boost gauge on mine recently, and I've had a ball and spring MBC on there for a while now..
It would turn out I have been boosting my GT-15 to like 30psi! So I knocked it back on the MBC, you can watch it get to about 15 in about a half second, drop to 10 (wastegate opens) and then keep on rolling to 25psi if I keep on it.
Shweeeet. No exhaust restriction, and MAD BOOST BROTHA! Now I need an IC to take HUGE advantage of that ability.
It's called boost creep and it means your turbo is way too small ::)
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Alcaid:
First and foremost - Thank you for weighing in on this topic.
My mind is becoming more comfortable with the notion of running 1400+ F EGT's for a minute or two. I have an oversized, 2 pass aluminum radiator which should be quite effective at keeping the coolant temperature in check, especially when running at speed.
I am a beginner when it comes to turbocharger knowledge. I went with the GT2056 turbo based on the recommendations of folks more knowledgeable than myself, even though I realized that it might not be the absolute optimum turbo for this application. It got me "in the game" with what should be a workable turbo. Depending on how things go at the World Finals, and into the future, I know of some more turbo options as well as other tuning & mechanical changes that might help to make even more power.
I'm planning to leave the pump alone. I don't want to tinker with Dieselmeken's work.
For now, I am happy with the power levels, and want to see what it will do on the salt.
I had no idea that my Rampage appeared in Diesel Power magazine. I didn't contact them, so I have to assume someone else sent them a link, or they came across the build thread on a website. You are talking about the print magazine? I'll have to go search the newsstands for a copy.
Thanks again.
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I just got a boost gauge on mine recently, and I've had a ball and spring MBC on there for a while now..
It would turn out I have been boosting my GT-15 to like 30psi! So I knocked it back on the MBC, you can watch it get to about 15 in about a half second, drop to 10 (wastegate opens) and then keep on rolling to 25psi if I keep on it.
Shweeeet. No exhaust restriction, and MAD BOOST BROTHA! Now I need an IC to take HUGE advantage of that ability.
It's called boost creep and it means your turbo is way too small ::)
i told this hoser he needs more turbo and not ebay ***. he should also try some american bacon.
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With your relatively low compression ratio, 30psi is just a walk in the park, I would aim higher but it all depends how much fuel you are able to get in there with your pump. No need to boost more than what's needed to clear the smoke and keep EGTs at a sane level. Looks like your governor is kicking in a bit early since HP curve flattens out. A friend just did a governor mod on a 11mm Dieselmeken pump with great success and it's pulling much harder on top now.
something else i had thought here was that the low compression engine could really enjoy some timing advance, what is your take on this?
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It seems to make sense that earlier injection timing would work with the lower static compression.
I didn't have time to try different timing levels during the dyno session.
However, I should have all week to try different timing and boost settings on the salt flats. (The Great White Dyno).
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i wouldn't be too scared to mess with your governor either ;^P theres plenty of tech support on the forums to help u get everything running properly. but im sure u don't want to be messing 50 factors all at onced right now either.
also alcaid, do you think gt2259 would have been a little better? it has less surge issue, bigger exhaust side and lower compressor wheel speeds.
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something else i had thought here was that the low compression engine could really enjoy some timing advance, what is your take on this?
The Dieselmeken pump has much more dynamic timing built into it, but trying a bit more static timing might be worth a shot.
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also alcaid, do you think gt2259 would have been a little better? it has less surge issue, bigger exhaust side and lower compressor wheel speeds.
The biggest Holset HE221W (60/44.2mm compressor) has even better surge margin than that one and flows a LOT more air. The one showing up on a project on this forum soon will be an even better match ;)
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I asked Dieselmeken for timing recommendations, and he gave me a good starting point.
He also gave me recommendations for increasing the fueling, but it is very near maximum right now.
I know the entire engine/pump/turbo/intercooler is not 100% optimized right now, but I'm still very pleased with the power. I am not aware of any other 1.5L IDI's currently using the 1.9L AAZ cylinder head. I am hopeful that this combination will power my little truck enough to be competitive against the existing record.
When I'm out on the salt flats, I will have time and opportunity to move the pump timing up and down a bit between passes.
That Holset HE221W seems to be a very good turbo for engines of this size. I believe there are also some Borg-Warner turbos that are in the same size/suitability range. I'll have to go back and check the flow maps on some of those.
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something else i had thought here was that the low compression engine could really enjoy some timing advance, what is your take on this?
The Dieselmeken pump has much more dynamic timing built into it, but trying a bit more static timing might be worth a shot.
Yeah thats what i meant
And i am very excited for lucas to get his holset
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From what you dyno looks like the biggest gains to be had in the pump would be the gov. mod first. The other stuff will help but I bet that would get you to fuel more on top and might not make your torque drop off as much. Also, when I have retarded the timing it seemed to move the power more toward the final RPM and advancing it seems to give it more snap off idle. Not saying you want to do either one, but just what I have noticed in my engines.
I too think the lowered compression of the head and engine combo may let you run even more boost/egt than normal. As I said before I ran my old 1.6 to 1650f for under a second, but up to 1400f all the time. It took me 40,000 miles to drop a precup. I didn't have the lowered compression or as good of a turbo, so I would say go to 1400f max just as Alcaid said.
Whatever you do keep good records and if possible only change 1 thing at a time. It is the long way but it is easy to know what did what when you make the adjustment.
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i believe on daves build (http://www.vwdiesel.net/forum/index.php?topic=11698.0) he mentioned some where that he ran very advanced timing with his giles pump, like 1.20mm initial timing or something, 1.5 should have about the same or even lower compression than daves engine. i only say that because dave had modded around the valves and some other weird stuff that could lower compression. also check out the huge turbo he ran :o :o
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i believe on daves build (http://www.vwdiesel.net/forum/index.php?topic=11698.0) he mentioned some where that he ran very advanced timing with his giles pump, like 1.20mm initial timing or something, 1.5 should have about the same or even lower compression than daves engine. i only say that because dave had modded around the valves and some other weird stuff that could lower compression.
In my examples he probably did that so that it would get out of its own way before boost hit. With normal timing or Giles retarded spec it would probably have been gutless until the turbo lit and he was trying to help it all he could***guess***
Jetmugg's seems to have a good clatter to it in the mid range. I am not going to say an advance or retard would help him or not, but I would say that the gov. mod would help the most by the looks of the dyno, for what he is doing. Going way advanced like Dave did may give you the peak cylinder pressure that likes to rattle things in bad ways. The 1.5 with all the lowered compression is probably better suited than our 1.6's but still go too much and I think you risk precup danger, I don't know what point that is but it is an eventual possibility.
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Within the next two days, I should know if the World Finals are going to be held this year or not. There is a chance of rain tomorrow and Thursday on the salt flats. :o
Beyond those two days, the conditions look excellent for racing.
If everything stays dry, I should have plenty of opportunity for test and tune on the salt next week.
If we get cancelled, I will have plenty of changes to tune before next August. I think I can get some more dyno sessions in, trying different timing and boost options.
This board is a fantastic resource of information on these engines! This is the Internet at its best.
I won't get inside the pump unless Dieselmeken specifically instructs me to do so.
Beyond those two days, the conditions look excellent for racing.
For now, I'm thinking warm, dry thoughts. I really want to put a mark on the board to see how this little truck will run!
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Here is the dyno with rpms, did some smoothing as well, the thick area at the end is because I chopped the pedal before ending the run on the computer.
(http://i94.photobucket.com/albums/l83/935racer/DaveCrossDyno.jpg)
This does lead me to believe a 14mm pump is over kill for the lower end of 200whp. A 12mm would suit my goals just fine, heck with some different injectors this 9mm is likely good enough. I am not completely decided on my pump situation yet, I want to build an new intake manifold and a new exhaust manifold and add a camshaft first, see where I am at, and go from there.
New shop is bigger and better, 6500 sq/ft, really nice race shop, we'll have a nice customer lounge area with a big plasma tv and surround for people waiting for dyno slips and such. This new shop will house my business and my friends business building custom turbo bimmers. With a dyno, ecu tuning capabilities, machining equipment, fabrication equipment an a paint shop we'll be able to tackle virtually any project.
I'll get some pics of the new shop when we are both a little more moved in.
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also i think some of his reason for advancing timing was to clear up the white smoke as well. i am just speculating everything. but check out his dyno, look how much power he has around 4600 rpms. interesting isn't it.
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I'm going to have plenty of time to tune this thing. :'(
World Finals have been cancelled due to too much water on the salt, not enough time for it to dry, and more rain in the forecast.
Steve
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I'm going to have plenty of time to tune this thing. :'(
World Finals have been cancelled due to too much water on the salt, not enough time for it to dry, and more rain in the forecast.
Steve
You more likely to make the goal now!! you can get this thing beyond perfect and have some fun with it in the mean time.
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Hi,
Have you been getting any work done on this one lately? :)
Just a hint on your way to land speed records:
- The GT2056 you are using has a turbine choke flow of 10.4lbs/min (47.0mm turbine, 72Trim, 0.46A/R housing)
- You dynoed 167whp. Just based on the turbine flow I blindly guessed 164whp based on all 1.6TD dyno runs I have data from, so I wasn't that far off ;)
- To be able to get the 30lbs/min compressor flow out of the turbo on a 1.6TD you would need to up the turbine choke flow to 12lbs/min. To get to that a theoretical housing size of 0.62A/R would be needed (or bigger for even more turbine flow / less back pressure / slower spool)
- Turbo would spool somewhat later, but as you are already in the surge area that would actually be a benefit and land speed records don't need fast spooling turbos anyway
- You should be very close to 190whp with this mod and be able to keep your existing hardware. All it would take is to find a bigger A/R turbine housing that fits your turbine wheel or port the housing you have, 15% bigger diameter internally would give you the A/R increase you need, don't know if there is enough meat in the housing to do that.
- Don't know how long the GT2056 will hold at this high boost levels without a 360° thrust bearing so that is an upgrade I most certainly would consider
Best of luck! :)
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I have been doing some work on the truck, but not under the hood. I have some roll cage upgrades to do, along with brakes and fabricating an air dam.
Budget wise, I'm pretty constrained for 2014. My plan is to run what I have in 2014, first at the Ohio Mile in June, then Bonneville in August. I don't doubt the wisdom of your advice for a second, but simply can't afford (from a dollars and cents perspective) to do any experimentation with different turbo setups.
Testing and running different turbo setups will have to wait for future seasons. This will be a long term effort.
I do have a boost controller that I will be installing in the cab of the truck, within reach of my right hand. In order to avoid the surge, it is my intent to only allow full boost at higher rpms in top gear.
I "think" I have enough power to be competitive against the current record, but there are about 1 million things that could cause me to fall short.
Whatever happens, I will continue to pursue the dream.
Thanks,
Steve.
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After re-reading your post, it has sunk in a bit more.
I didn't know it was possible to upgrade the GT2056 to 360 degree bearings. That is an excellent suggestion, along with porting of the housing.
Time to do some more homework. I have some time, but don't have much money left.
Steve.
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I have been doing some work on the truck, but not under the hood. I have some roll cage upgrades to do, along with brakes and fabricating an air dam.
Budget wise, I'm pretty constrained for 2014. My plan is to run what I have in 2014, first at the Ohio Mile in June, then Bonneville in August. I don't doubt the wisdom of your advice for a second, but simply can't afford (from a dollars and cents perspective) to do any experimentation with different turbo setups.
Testing and running different turbo setups will have to wait for future seasons. This will be a long term effort.
I do have a boost controller that I will be installing in the cab of the truck, within reach of my right hand. In order to avoid the surge, it is my intent to only allow full boost at higher rpms in top gear.
I "think" I have enough power to be competitive against the current record, but there are about 1 million things that could cause me to fall short.
Whatever happens, I will continue to pursue the dream.
Thanks,
Steve.
Keep up the posts - were' in the dream as well ;D
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June 7th and 8th, I plan to be in Wilmington, OH for the Ohio Mile meet. This will be my first opportunity to have the truck go through the East Coast Timing Association tech inspection. The ECTA rulebook is almost identical to the Southern California Timing Associon / Bonneville Nationals Inc. (SCTA/BNI) rulebook. If any tech issues are detected in Ohio, I'll have time to address them before Bonneville.
Since Ohio is a 1 mile course, and Bonneville will be 3 miles for a sub-175 mph vehicle like mine, one of the things I'm wondering about is whether I'll still be accelerating at the 1 mile mark, or if I will have hit top speed by that time on pavement.
I can picture that I'll be able to run through 1st, 2nd, and 3rd gears pretty quickly, but that 4th gear may take a while to reach top speed.
I'm getting butterflies just thinking about it.
Steve
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I know you will be able to be in triple digits by 1 mile, weather or not you will still be accelerating or not is another question. I don't think on pavement you will be, I would think if you are running it hard, it will have reached its terminal velocity.
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That's my guess, too.
From a standing start, 1st gear will "wrap out" very quickly, probably within the first 100 feet or so. 2nd gear won't take much longer. My goal is to wind 3rd gear up to my comfortable limit of rpms before shifting into 4th. I don't want to "lug" the engine in 4th. Once I'm in 4th and get up around 4000 rpm or so, I will adjust the boost controller to give full boost.
At that point, I'll sneak some peeks at the EGT gauge and manage the throttle accordingly, keeping the truck pointed in the right direction.
If everything goes as expected, my comfort level with EGT may be the limiting factor. I just don't have a good idea of a safe upper limit for EGT.
I'm trying to save some pennies for a Snow Performance water injection setup to mitigate the EGT's a bit.
Steve.
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more boost will help keep egts down, so u may want to set it and forget it, but i think in a mile on pavement you will easily reach terminal velocity, i would think in a quarter mile you can already reach 90-100mph, so a whole mile should be easy to hit your max.
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I hope that he has some news to bump one of his threads soon
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We are the new ECTA recordholders!
123mph and some change. We had a great time, and I had the chance to meet TheMan53 and CSMP5 at the meet.
Thank you very much for all the support and encouragement guys.
I'll have pics, video, and stories to share later. I just got home and will spend some time with family now.
Steve.
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I knew you had it, but didn't want to let the cat out of the bag. I wish you guys didn't have it all under control as I was prepared to wrench.
So now that you believe me that it will go that fast, what do you think you will do in Utah. You will have longer to wind it up and run different tires/trans if needed.
Have fun with the family and let us know. Great job
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Congrats Jetmugg! :)
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congrats!
now time for a tdi gearbox conversion ;D
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A CTN gearbox would be nice, together with a properly matched Holset turbo off course ;)
Dieselmeken just build me a new pump for my 1.6TTD, over 200cc of fuel, yours was something like 90-100cc? Time to step up and crush your own record :)
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How were you getting a hold of Dieselmekken? When I was trying to source my pump I emailed him several times and never got an answer :-(
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How were you getting a hold of Dieselmekken? When I was trying to source my pump I emailed him several times and never got an answer :-(
Same, I told him to build me an 11mm pump for my 1.6...no response
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[email protected] and he is also on facebook, this is the second pump he built for me, found out the 11mm 130cc didn't deliever enough for my goals ;)
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The existing record at Bonneville is 106.xxx mph. My first goal is to be competitive against that record. I need to put 2 consecutive passes together in excess of the existing record to become the new SCTA recordholder. That is my first goal.
Assuming I can do that, then I will "let it all hang out" at SpeedWeek to see how much I can wring from the existing setup. I want to get everything I can out of the current setup before changing anything.
I have always said that I don't want to blow it up in Ohio or on the first day of SpeedWeek, but I don't really care if I blow it up on the last day of SpeedWeek if I haven't set a record yet.
Looking ahead, there are plenty of paths to take, ranging from additional pump, turbo, and cylinder head work on the 1.5 engine, to building a 2.0 class engine, to putting a gasoline burning (gasp) engine in the truck to chase some of those records.
Goran at Dieselmeken has been great to work with, as has Giles. Giles sent me one of his cams, and Goran did the pump work. Goran is very easy to get ahold of through FaceBook and via email from my perspective. He seems to be a very busy guy, but has offered superb customer service to me.
He will most likely be the guy to build the next pump I need, no matter what diesel engine it's for.
Steve.
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Here's a video of Sunday's run:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PBGNUAL5nzw&feature=youtu.be
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I love the faint reflection of the puff of smoke from your stack when you shift - you can just barely see it against the orange glossy instrument panel. :D
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Where the EGT better after turning up the boost?
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EGT's were much, much better. I don't think they ever got over 1300F after turning the boost all the way up. I'm planning to leave it on the full boost setting from this point on.
Steve.
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also, I don't know how your 1.5 is compared to the larger engines, but mine seem to pull better after 1st. I short shift first a lot to get into second by 20mph or so. Seems to get up and go better than winding 1st out. Second is similar but not as bad as first. I usually shift 2nd around 40-45 but I have a completely different 5 speed than what you do. Also the 1.5 may not have the torque that the 1.6 or 1.9 do off bottom...something to think about.
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On my 3rd run Saturday afternoon, I spun the tires off the line, shifted about 6,000 rpms from 1st to 2nd, let it rev to 6,000 again between 2nd and 3rd, and then missed the 3-4 shift completely, costing me distance and speed.
You are right - 1st and 2nd are not terribly important, except to get this little truck moving. 3rd gear is where most of the speed is gained, and then the 3-4 shift is important in order to keep RPM drops to a minimum.
I think that when I added the solid urethane front mount (to the core support), it changed the position of the engine somewhat, which affected the gear shift linkage.
I'll double check and re-adjust the linkage, as it's all made up of threaded rods and heim joints.
Steve.
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Steve,
How many CC did your pump deliver at max? It was 90CC at 3000 pump RPM but must have been higher before that
A 1.5TD can get slightly more HP from a specific turbine than a 1.6TD so you should be able to reach these numbers with the correct fueling, single turbo setups:
Your current setup:
Garrett GT2056-0.46A/R - 165-170whp (need ~100CC of fuel), turbine is the limit
A few suggestions that will handle the high boost you will need:
- Holset HE211W-5cm - 170-175whp (need ~105CC of fuel), turbine is the limit
- Holset HE200WG-5cm - 195-200whp (need ~120cc of fuel), turbine and compressor max out at the same time
- Holset HE221W-5cm - 225-230whp (need ~135cc of fuel), turbine and compressor max out at the same time
- Holset HX30WSuper-6cm, 240-245whp (need ~145cc of fuel), compressor wheel is the limit but very close on the turbine as well. This is a special version of the HX30W with a 78/46mm compressor, not the 69/40mm, 73/42mm or 73/44mm ones that are easier to get hold of
You need a lot of boost or a good flowing head to get much over 200whp
If going compound you don't need compressors capable of high boost and turbine matching is a different story but if that's what you want to build I can help you out with the matching
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The 90cc at 3,000 pump rpm was reported by Goran. I'm not sure what the "curve" looked like in terms of cc's versus rpm at various levels. Goran may know, and I would defer to his expertise on the matter.
I really appreciate the suggestions regarding the various turbocharger options.
This season will leave me pretty well broke, and needing to save some $$$ for future improvements. My tentative plan for the future is to have another head ported for maximum flow, possibly including larger valves if necessary. Then, I would send the pump back to Goran to increase its output. In addition, I will have to install a properly sized turbo to support the increased fuel and hopefully better flow through the head.
The way it is now, the engine has consistently run better, and with lower EGT's with more boost. Any time I restricted the boost, my EGT's have climbed.
I don't have enough knowledge to know if a single large turbo is preferable to a compound setup for this application, but I plan to keep learning as much as I can between now and then.
I really appreciate all the help from folks on this forum!
Steve.
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Compound will give you higher compressor efficiency, faster spool, lower back pressure and lower exhaust temperature compared to running a single turbo at the same (high) boost levels.