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General Information => General => Topic started by: bbob203 on March 04, 2012, 03:53:12 pm
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today i started a drive from erie pa to louisville ky im moving and my car is full of all my stuff. 40 minutes into my drive i pull over to grab a snack out of the my girlfriends car at a rest stop and i look down and notice my rear driverside wheel bearing is smoking and blownout. i got it towed to my grandparents which luckily is 80 miles in the right direction woohoo for aaa. anyhow Ive got it torn down and the drum wont come off it seems like the inner race of the outer bearing is seized onto the spindle i even put a puller on it and it didnt budge just buggered up the end of the spindle... any ideas i gotta start at my new job tomorrow afternoon so i gotta get this thing fixed asap. also i called all the big name auto parts stores around autozone advance oreillys and none had a new axle. they all said it was unavailable to them. ??? ??? ???
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Advanced can get one in a day IIRC. If you are close to Youngstown then I know a member on here who maybe able to help. If I were you I would get new parts and assemble the races, grease, get everything ready and come back sometime in the week.
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Hey buddy, first of, when you get a chance do you mind updating your profile with the car you drive and where you are located? Thank-you. It will make it %100 easier for us to lend a helping hand.
If you have any junkyards near, pretty much any rear spindle off any mk1/mk2/mk3 will work. However it depends on whether you have a 180mm or 200mm drum shoe. That is the difference, pretty sure they are the same between drum and disk too.
Lucas he needs the car by tomorrow afternoon. Tight timing to have a break down :(
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Not the same between drum and disc. I have an 83 GTI that he could rob the lot from, but I am not going to do it...cold and dark. But it is near Millersburg.
Could you just call AAA and have them tow it to your home? If you have the premium membership and not the junk one I have they will do 100 miles before they charge. Mine is 3 miles and then 1.00/ mile.
WHere is the car now?
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Not the same between drum and disc.
Ahh you are right, I re-referenced ETKA and it is all the DRUM spindles from 75-92 are interchangeable. Also it does not matter between the 180mm and 200mm drum. The spindle is the same. Mk1/mk2 the same. Mk3/Mk4 the same.
Could have sworn somewhere I could have made the 200mm mk3 drum and spindle work on my mk1.. hmm
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car is in tallmadge oh about 350 miles from my destination. its bad but could be worse over half of the needles are still in it. im contemplating driving it as far as i can and maybe getting it towed the rest of the way if it gets so bad i cant go any farther. ive had at least one of the rear drums off before and i didn't have to loosen up the shoes with the adjuster.
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Tallmadge is right by youngstown I think...close anyway. I will call CRSMP5 and see if he is willing to get on here and contact you.
I just remembered the disc/drum deal as I was thinking of going to disc but the disc spindle is about 10x the cost of the drum, so I did not :D
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Even with two needles missing it will sit and ride on that one spot.. and not let the bearing spin. I would suggest highly against this. Very highly.
I have nearly had my wheel come off from a bearing failure, and I wasn't missing any of the needles..
350 miles to go, I'd say you make 25.. maybe on this bearing before you watch your tire pass you by .
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yea, dont drive on it.. once its injured, it wont take long for it to completely come off..
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Yeah, better luck taking the tire off and having a fat chick sit on the opposite corner. Go slow and I don't take responsibility if you give it a try.
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Yeah, better luck taking the tire off and having a fat chick sit on the opposite corner. Go slow and I don't take responsibility if you give it a try.
hahaha... just screw a lawn chair to the hood, get a fat chick to sit there, and a fat chick in the passenger seat.. that SHOULD work..
PS, take pics if you use the fat chick method!!
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ytown is about 40 miles from tallmadge. I'm stumped here I guess the race is welded to the spindle. I can't see it hanging up on the brakes I released the pads thru the lug bolt hole. heated it up also and pb'd it but all i have is a plumbers torch though don't even think its near hot enough.
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ytown is about 40 miles from tallmadge. I'm stumped here I guess the race is welded to the spindle. I can't see it hanging up on the brakes I released the pads thru the lug bolt hole. heated it up also and pb'd it but all i have is a plumbers torch though don't even think its near hot enough.
if the race spun on the stub, and over heated, it could have fusion welded its self to the stub axle.. ive also seen the races SHRINK from getting too hot, and being basically stuck on the stub till they are re-heated..
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I don't think I'm getting anywhere with this propane torch. and the brake shoes can't possibly be holding me back. I got a puller on there and I'm standing on the wrench its so tight on.
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You are still trying to get the drum off correct? or are you just stuck on the race??
If the drum is stuck, you might try two pry bars on either side of the drum.. but be careful you can bend the back plate wuite easily.
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yep trying to get the drum off still its that race its on there good.
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yep trying to get the drum off still its that race its on there good.
may have to take the stub axle off with everything still attached to it, and take it to the vice, so its not in such an awkward position..
in the end, you may have to replace the whole stub axle, bearings, drum, brake hardware n pads, and everything on that particular side..
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i know a guy in talmage.. he less then 20 min from summit racing..
http://www.globalgarage.biz/
440)796-1239
jeff good people... :D
jeff also has my #... i expect he has a stub sitttin round from his haldex mk1 conversion.. but if all else fails.. i have one..
biggest question is rear brake size.. and if all else fails.. you BREAK the drum... its only cast.. so once you get a hole in it it will crack/break rest of way.. but need to know what size drum for a replacement..
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I had this same problem about 6 months ago. Bearing got so hot it welded itself to the stub. I ended up being able to hit it hard enough with a chisel and heavy ball peen hammer and got it to snap off. The thread was battered up but still had a few threads for the nut to catch on. I was able to replace the bearing, I had a spare in the tool box, and squeeze the drum on best I could, eased the nut on and held it in place with the cotter key. Then I drove at 40-45 mph for then next 75 miles and made it home. 4.5 hr trip went to 10.0 hrs.
I replaced the stub axles, the bearings and the end caps but the brakes were fine.
Best of luck on this. Been on that road and it really bites that you HAVE to be somewhere in the morning.
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ah yea Jeff Pilney I've dealt with him before good guy Ill probably give him a ring. I've got things figured out repacked my girlfriends car to accommodate me. luckily i work for an airline so i can fly for free so ill be back on Thursday to see if i can fix this bastard. In the meantime I'm gonna try to come up with the parts I need to get this back together.
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Sounds like the only plan you can have at this point. Good that you had a spare car, maybe just put the GF in a motel next to the car, have her get the parts and fix it. Then fly up and bring the two home. Love you too dear.
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The 91 Jettas will have 200mm rear brakes/drums.
90-98 should be interchange.
A good propane torch should get it hot enough.
Might take 5 solid minutes though - and a slide hammer.
It sounds like you might have already nookered the axle beyond limits,
but you need to get e-Brake cable undone in there - could bend and bang backing plate enough probably to get at it.
Shoes, hardware (springs), drum are specific to 200mm
All else could be from 180mm donor
... well backing plate i'm not 100% certain if its the same.
actually you "could" have one side all 180mm for time being if thats what it takes to get it home for now.
fwiw
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Try pulling on the drum whilst rotating it, does it bind then? If so it may well still be a shoe catching issue. Shame the stub axle bolts are in the drum side.
Also they are either 15 or 16mm when you do get to them >:(
Newer replacement drums are soft machined steel that wear as fast as the pads [almost]. Old original ones are hard but brittle cast iron, which will smash off. They were hard because they ran the last of the asbestos shoes...
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Not to be a pest but....did you sucessfully disengage the brake shoes? There is a wedge in the upper left inside the brake drum that is only accessable with a long screw driver. You push it up and the shoes release.
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beat it with a screwdriver turned into a chisel. for the hell of it i threaded the axle nut on it and cranked it hard... VOILA! the race cracked then i put the slide hammer back on it came right off. the axle would've needed replaced anyway it was grooved from the race spinning free on the axle. got a new axle and bearing kit today. gonna take the drum somewhere tomorrow morning to get the new outer races and inside seal installed.
;D ;D ;D
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Glad to hear! I've always installed the races with a hammer and socket. If you heat the drum, the races practically fall in.
-Todd
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If you put the races in the freezer you don't have to heat up the drum as much. Maybe not at all.
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Glad to hear! I've always installed the races with a hammer and socket. If you heat the drum, the races practically fall in.
-Todd
If you put the races in the freezer you don't have to heat up the drum as much. Maybe not at all.
I do both. Works like a charm :)
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If you put the races in the freezer you don't have to heat up the drum as much. Maybe not at all.
I used to do that and it works fine. I'd always forget to put the races in the freezer until 5 minutes before they're ready to be installed. The torch method is way faster and everybody knows that fire is cool.
-Todd
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i tapped the old ones out with a punch sanded em down and used them to tap the new ones along with a big socket worked out great. now my problem is figuring out where these camber shims where placed ??? cuz i didnt relalize what they were til last night before bed?