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#15
by
bbob203
on 04 Mar, 2012 18:52
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yep trying to get the drum off still its that race its on there good.
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#16
by
R.O.R-2.0
on 04 Mar, 2012 19:00
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yep trying to get the drum off still its that race its on there good.
may have to take the stub axle off with everything still attached to it, and take it to the vice, so its not in such an awkward position..
in the end, you may have to replace the whole stub axle, bearings, drum, brake hardware n pads, and everything on that particular side..
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#17
by
CRSMP5
on 04 Mar, 2012 19:25
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i know a guy in talmage.. he less then 20 min from summit racing..
http://www.globalgarage.biz/440)796-1239
jeff good people...
jeff also has my #... i expect he has a stub sitttin round from his haldex mk1 conversion.. but if all else fails.. i have one..
biggest question is rear brake size.. and if all else fails.. you BREAK the drum... its only cast.. so once you get a hole in it it will crack/break rest of way.. but need to know what size drum for a replacement..
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#18
by
ORCoaster
on 04 Mar, 2012 19:37
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I had this same problem about 6 months ago. Bearing got so hot it welded itself to the stub. I ended up being able to hit it hard enough with a chisel and heavy ball peen hammer and got it to snap off. The thread was battered up but still had a few threads for the nut to catch on. I was able to replace the bearing, I had a spare in the tool box, and squeeze the drum on best I could, eased the nut on and held it in place with the cotter key. Then I drove at 40-45 mph for then next 75 miles and made it home. 4.5 hr trip went to 10.0 hrs.
I replaced the stub axles, the bearings and the end caps but the brakes were fine.
Best of luck on this. Been on that road and it really bites that you HAVE to be somewhere in the morning.
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#19
by
bbob203
on 04 Mar, 2012 20:22
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ah yea Jeff Pilney I've dealt with him before good guy Ill probably give him a ring. I've got things figured out repacked my girlfriends car to accommodate me. luckily i work for an airline so i can fly for free so ill be back on Thursday to see if i can fix this bastard. In the meantime I'm gonna try to come up with the parts I need to get this back together.
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#20
by
ORCoaster
on 04 Mar, 2012 21:00
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Sounds like the only plan you can have at this point. Good that you had a spare car, maybe just put the GF in a motel next to the car, have her get the parts and fix it. Then fly up and bring the two home. Love you too dear.
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#21
by
Baron VonZeppelin
on 04 Mar, 2012 22:57
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The 91 Jettas will have 200mm rear brakes/drums.
90-98 should be interchange.
A good propane torch should get it hot enough.
Might take 5 solid minutes though - and a slide hammer.
It sounds like you might have already nookered the axle beyond limits,
but you need to get e-Brake cable undone in there - could bend and bang backing plate enough probably to get at it.
Shoes, hardware (springs), drum are specific to 200mm
All else could be from 180mm donor
... well backing plate i'm not 100% certain if its the same.
actually you "could" have one side all 180mm for time being if thats what it takes to get it home for now.
fwiw
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#22
by
Mark(The Miser)UK
on 06 Mar, 2012 17:29
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Try pulling on the drum whilst rotating it, does it bind then? If so it may well still be a shoe catching issue. Shame the stub axle bolts are in the drum side.
Also they are either 15 or 16mm when you do get to them 
Newer replacement drums are soft machined steel that wear as fast as the pads [almost]. Old original ones are hard but brittle cast iron, which will smash off. They were hard because they ran the last of the asbestos shoes...
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#23
by
srgtlord
on 08 Mar, 2012 15:54
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Not to be a pest but....did you sucessfully disengage the brake shoes? There is a wedge in the upper left inside the brake drum that is only accessable with a long screw driver. You push it up and the shoes release.
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#24
by
bbob203
on 08 Mar, 2012 15:56
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#25
by
ToddA1
on 08 Mar, 2012 19:41
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Glad to hear! I've always installed the races with a hammer and socket. If you heat the drum, the races practically fall in.
-Todd
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#26
by
ORCoaster
on 08 Mar, 2012 19:46
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If you put the races in the freezer you don't have to heat up the drum as much. Maybe not at all.
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#27
by
8v-of-fury
on 08 Mar, 2012 19:46
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Glad to hear! I've always installed the races with a hammer and socket. If you heat the drum, the races practically fall in.
-Todd
If you put the races in the freezer you don't have to heat up the drum as much. Maybe not at all.
I do both. Works like a charm
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#28
by
ToddA1
on 08 Mar, 2012 19:54
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If you put the races in the freezer you don't have to heat up the drum as much. Maybe not at all.
I used to do that and it works fine. I'd always forget to put the races in the freezer until 5 minutes before they're ready to be installed. The torch method is way faster and everybody knows that fire is cool.
-Todd
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#29
by
bbob203
on 09 Mar, 2012 04:47
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i tapped the old ones out with a punch sanded em down and used them to tap the new ones along with a big socket worked out great. now my problem is figuring out where these camber shims where placed
cuz i didnt relalize what they were til last night before bed?
