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Engine Specific Info and Questions => IDI Engine => Topic started by: 8v-of-fury on July 18, 2011, 08:10:48 pm

Title: How to properly set the IP
Post by: 8v-of-fury on July 18, 2011, 08:10:48 pm
I have messed around with all the adjustments on my 1.6 n/a pump... and I think it is far from being ideal at the moment.. however I dont know exactly what makes what, and I am pretty sure I have my throttle arm in the wrong position and then the rest of the pump set up to compensate. Can you please help me?

(http://i299.photobucket.com/albums/mm307/J_holubek/84%20Jetta/100_1321.jpg)(http://i299.photobucket.com/albums/mm307/J_holubek/84%20Jetta/100_1322.jpg)
(http://i299.photobucket.com/albums/mm307/J_holubek/84%20Jetta/100_1325.jpg)
(http://i299.photobucket.com/albums/mm307/J_holubek/84%20Jetta/100_1323.jpg)
(http://i299.photobucket.com/albums/mm307/J_holubek/Diesel/IMG00687-20110517-1651.jpg)

Here is my current setup.. as you can see I have the Idle (back of the pump) as low (its bottomed on the pump lid almost) as it will go with aid on that shaft to make it go lower. I have the residual fuel screw also as low as it will go while still maintaining contact with the throttle lever. The max rev screw is also set to the point where it just contacts the lever at full throttle insuring my throttle inside the pump is physically being pulled to its full extension. I also have my governor shimmed completely solid.

What can you tell me from where I have my pump set? is the throttle lever in its right orientation to the throttle shaft?

The only reason I bring this up is after driving it for a while it almost seems like I have very little low end power (like a diesel is supposed to have), and i just get smoke if i give more pedal. It just feels WAY down on power all around.. please can you help?
Title: Re: How to properly set the IP
Post by: 745 turbogreasel on July 18, 2011, 11:11:17 pm

The only reason I bring this up is after driving it for a while it almost seems like I have very little low end power (like a diesel is supposed to have), and i just get smoke if i give more pedal. It just feels WAY down on power all around.. please can you help?

Did you hear a boost tube  pop off?
Title: Re: How to properly set the IP
Post by: regcheeseman on July 19, 2011, 03:19:05 am
on an NA?
Title: Re: How to properly set the IP
Post by: regcheeseman on July 19, 2011, 03:23:01 am
your spline 'looks about right'

the fuel screw looks wrong - have you moved the metal collar on it? If not, undo the lock nut and wind it in until the collar is tight against nut, then you will have original setting
Title: Re: How to properly set the IP
Post by: Mark(The Miser)UK on July 19, 2011, 04:47:07 am
on an NA?
;D Perhaps he was going/driving through a severe depression
Title: Re: How to properly set the IP
Post by: theman53 on July 19, 2011, 05:29:24 am
This is how mine have acted. It has grunt but not snap.

I would check on advancing timing and maybe not completely solid on your main spring gov mod. Mine still has some movement. other than that the spline could be off for your pump. You could try to rotate it one spline and see if it helps. You can do that easily enough without opening anything.
Title: Re: How to properly set the IP
Post by: 8v-of-fury on July 19, 2011, 07:12:08 am
This is how mine have acted. It has grunt but not snap.

I would check on advancing timing and maybe not completely solid on your main spring gov mod. Mine still has some movement. other than that the spline could be off for your pump. You could try to rotate it one spline and see if it helps. You can do that easily enough without opening anything.

I don't think the full solid governor would have anything to do with this.. I think I just have my idle and residual set way too low, and the fuel in too far.. Its right at the point where another smidgen of fuel screw will hang the rpms between shifts.

Timing is set to like 0.040-0.041" and is VERY clack clackity, so i dont think more advance is the ticket either. :D

your spline 'looks about right'

the fuel screw looks wrong - have you moved the metal collar on it? If not, undo the lock nut and wind it in until the collar is tight against nut, then you will have original setting

The fuel screw is a few turns in from stock, I have both idle adjustments bottomed out. The MAX fuel is in so far to compensate, with an idle of around 975-1025 im guessing.
Title: Re: How to properly set the IP
Post by: 8v-of-fury on July 19, 2011, 10:39:54 am
So as it turns out, maxxing the max fuel screw with the lowest idle possible of the two settings and not hanging the idle is not the best your pump can do..

I bet you I took the max screw out about 2.5 full revolutions to where I am now and cranked in the throttle stop screw to compensate the idle.. It is the best spot I have had it yet. Good power all over the powerband instead of just up top, and loads more smoke on WOT than with the fuel screw in 2.5 more turns... WOWZA
Title: Re: How to properly set the IP
Post by: R.O.R-2.0 on July 19, 2011, 01:01:47 pm
i dont have a residual fuel screw high idle screw, but the way i did it, was screw in the fuel screw until it hung rpms.. then i backed it out, and messed with it on the road. im right to the point where any more fuel screw would make it hang.. and i still have enough idle screw left that i can turn my idle down to about 300 rpms..
Title: Re: How to properly set the IP
Post by: 8v-of-fury on July 19, 2011, 01:20:32 pm
The residual screw is the screw the throttle rests on when off throttle. Your pump doesn't have the idle adjustment on the backside of the pump then? I have that adjustment bottomed, and the throttle stop out a little further than stock.. The fuel screw is prob a turn in from stock now.. Ill update with new pics after work lol.
Title: Re: How to properly set the IP
Post by: 8v-of-fury on July 19, 2011, 06:26:51 pm
Will it hang if you drop the idle that far and give a touch more fuel screw as well?
Title: Re: How to properly set the IP
Post by: CRSMP5 on July 19, 2011, 08:30:06 pm
the center line of throttle shaft usually used middle line on throttle linkage.. not all to the one way that ive ever seen stock..

Title: Re: How to properly set the IP
Post by: rabbitman on July 19, 2011, 09:22:01 pm
The residual screw is the screw the throttle rests on when off throttle. Your pump doesn't have the idle adjustment on the backside of the pump then? I have that adjustment bottomed, and the throttle stop out a little further than stock.. The fuel screw is prob a turn in from stock now.. Ill update with new pics after work lol.

Looks like you have a newer pump with the idle up feature, way more confusing than the older ones.
On an old pump you have the max rpm screw, the idle screw and the residual fuel screw ( the one with the collar), unless I'm all messed up.

The pump on my '92 golf has the marks lined up the same as in your picture and I've never touched it.

Regcheeseman, I think the collar is only to limit the adjustment and rather than the factory setting. In fact when I bought a professionally rebuilt/calibrated pump the nut was not against the collar.
Title: Re: How to properly set the IP
Post by: regcheeseman on July 20, 2011, 05:49:14 am
Quote
Regcheeseman, I think the collar is only to limit the adjustment and rather than the factory setting. In fact when I bought a professionally rebuilt/calibrated pump the nut was not against the collar.

I've never seen a factory pump with the collar NOT against the nut, the one you bought was not even factory 'stock' so how is that even relevant? I've seen a lot of pumps but I could be wrong...

That spline setting is also not uncommon, as a basic guide the slot in the top of the lever will normally turn nearly just parallel with the pumps shaft at full throttle. On pumps that have no baseline I use this to guide rebuilds
Title: Re: How to properly set the IP
Post by: 8v-of-fury on July 20, 2011, 12:10:28 pm
Well I knew it went somewhere around there from when I took the lid off to swap on my N/A pump top.. But got it all mixed up when I tried several different settings.. Lol. Wherever I have it right now is cherrry. Cold started today without the glow-plugs (33c), and the idle is just a touch below where the alt kicks on and charges.. Loovein it. Power off idle for clutch engagement is solid, mid to high end is great too. I need to retrofit my 3" abs intake on this car now :) it was a good increase on my other 1.6D I think that's gonna be my tomorrow project :)
Title: Re: How to properly set the IP
Post by: R.O.R-2.0 on July 20, 2011, 12:33:02 pm
Will it hang if you drop the idle that far and give a touch more fuel screw as well?

never tried turning my idle down that far with the screw wound in that far. i hate low idles on diesels, makes the dash wanna jump out of my car..
Title: Re: How to properly set the IP
Post by: rabbitman on July 20, 2011, 08:36:26 pm
I've never seen a factory pump with the collar NOT against the nut, the one you bought was not even factory 'stock' so how is that even relevant? I've seen a lot of pumps but I could be wrong...

Well yeah, on my rabbit when I turned the screw in a turn or two but still not to the collar it would blow huge black clouds and barely idle low enough.

My golf on the other hand does have the collar against the nut and makes very little smoke, but also very little power. I've only got to look at about two other diesels around here and their collars weren't against the nut either. Most around here (that I've seen, they're very rare here) have probably been tampered with/rebuilt at some point