VWDiesel.net The IDI, TDI, and mTDI source.
Engine Specific Info and Questions => IDI Engine => Topic started by: JGWarner on June 29, 2011, 11:24:15 pm
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In the course of my Fox TD project I removed, cleaned, and re-installed the IP, all this time with a freely moving cold start advance arm/lever.
Then installed the cable to control it, still moved freely with the cable and by hand.
Then I timed the engine, set the lift timing on the pump (using the dial indicator method), turned it over a few revolutions in the course of setting all the timings, and now my cold advance lever is jammed in the off position. I can barely move it by hand, and the cable doesn't stand a chance of budging it.
What did I do?
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try and start it. Mine feels like the cable is going to break if I pull it and it isn't running or cranking. Might be all that it is since it is in a new spot???
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try and start it. Mine feels like the cable is going to break if I pull it and it isn't running or cranking. Might be all that it is since it is in a new spot???
if the cam plate is getting ready to travel UP the rollers, then you have the spring force from the plunger, trying to push the cam plate back down the rollers, but then you activate the cold start advance, and it moves the rollers a little farther up the cam plate bumps.
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Yes either start it, or turn the motor another 1/4 turn by hand. See if that helps.
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Thanks guys, I'll try that tonight. Definitely feels like I'm fighting the tension of the timing belt/motor. I guess I was freaking out for no reason!
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if the cold start advance is hard to pull when before i start my car, i put a little tension on the cold start knob, hit the key, then i pull the cold start as the engine is turning over, and then the knob pretty much flies out..
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If we are not talking about binding up inside the pump, I stumbled on something on another forum as far as the cable routing goes. If you don't route that thing right it can tweak enough to get stuck, etc.
For me the missing link was some small vw bushings that go around that piece in the arm that you screw the cable down to! It makes it so it tracks correctly and doesn't go cockeyed, etc. My pumps never had any on there so it was amazing to get the new ones and set the cable and tighten down and have it work the first time! Not tracking straight would allow the slack to hit things.
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Part numbers please!
I did think it was odd how that little metal cylinder just floated around loose in the lever.
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are you talking about the bushing for the cable bracket? or for the cable connection at the end of the actual arm?
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Here is the vw part # 068-130-337
Here is a pic from another thread
(http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b87/h4198/CSLBIns.jpg)
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thank you!
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I had those washer/ bushings crack on me and I found some very close in diameter at the hardware store. Only needed a little filing with a fine toothed file to make them work. Outside diameter was spot on. Lever works flawlessly now.
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Here is the vw part # 068-130-337
Here is a pic from another thread
(http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b87/h4198/CSLBIns.jpg)
HOLY CRAP!! ive never seen those before! none of my pumps have those..
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HOLY CRAP!! ive never seen those before! none of my pumps have those..
My pump's got the same cold advance as that.... right under the idle adjustment. Where's the lever on your pumps for cold start advance?
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HOLY CRAP!! ive never seen those before! none of my pumps have those..
My pump's got the same cold advance as that.... right under the idle adjustment. Where's the lever on your pumps for cold start advance?
the bushings, not the cold start lever..
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HOLY CRAP!! ive never seen those before! none of my pumps have those..
My pump's got the same cold advance as that.... right under the idle adjustment. Where's the lever on your pumps for cold start advance?
the bushings, not the cold start lever..
lmfao, classssic.
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HOLY CRAP!! ive never seen those before! none of my pumps have those..
My pump's got the same cold advance as that.... right under the idle adjustment. Where's the lever on your pumps for cold start advance?
the bushings, not the cold start lever..
hahaha, that is pretty funny Matt.. nothing like a good laugh to start off the day, just took me a minute to see the humor in it..
lmfao, classssic.
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Here is the vw part # 068-130-337
Here is a pic from another thread
(http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b87/h4198/CSLBIns.jpg)
I didn't know the p/n or where to get the bushings and made my own out of aluminum. Wish I woulda found this thread sooner, woulda saved me some time. Are the VW bushings bronze or nylon? I suspect nylon which falls apart after 20 years explaining why so many of them are missing?
(http://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/x480/Ecodiesel92/Photo_080311_006.jpg)
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HOLY CRAP!! ive never seen those before! none of my pumps have those..
Yeah, me too! It's something that i never thought about, but I want them.
Somewhat off topic.... when replacing the arm, after seal removal, how do you position the arm's limiter? I replaced mine the way it came off, but somehow I don't think that's right. It was positioned, so the lever had a lot of tension, then the tension dropped, like it was coming down the ramp.
After thinking about it, I think the limiter should stop the arm at the peak of tension, when the timing pin is being pushed the farthest. Does this make sense?
The way it was originally, never seemed to affect the idle when cold.
-todd
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They are gooey from vw.
As far that cold start arm I don't know for sure but every pump I have had reacts to that lever. And if I have it off the car there is some freeplay at the beginning of the stroke as if the lever was being pulled. Then it starts to catch and is harder to turn and you will feel it seem to click into place and seat so if you took your hand off it wouldn't snap back. Beyond that I think mine has just a tad bit of freeplay on the other ends stopper to give it some wiggle room once activated so it doesn't pop back.