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General Information => General => Topic started by: ToddA1 on May 16, 2011, 03:42:27 pm
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Everyone still adhering to the 3,000 mile oil/filter change schedule? I'm not sure if today's oils made that number a thing of the past; maybe I can squeeze another 1 or 2 thousand out of it?
I run standard Dino oil, although in a diesel grade.
-Todd
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I pretty much stick to 3000 with delo 400.
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3000 miles then change it. That is 3 months driving. Easy to remember and worth the extra change every year. Using Rottella. 15-40 Do the filter as well. Clean is good for oil.
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idi diesels are fine on 5k intervals, 3k is too short for a diesel. I run rotella 10w30 non syn for break in, and am now on pensosin 5w40syn. Does not seem excessively dirty, just use a good filter.
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What makes you say that 3k is too short?
I always use a quality oil whether it's Delo 400, Delvac 1300, Rotella, etc.; I'm not brand loyal, but I buy what's on sale, if there's a sale. Mann or Mahle filters are used at every oil change.
I've read people on other forums say they'll go up to 10k, when using a Frantz filter, and that's what spurred the question. I bought a Frantz a while ago, but haven't installed it, yet.
-Todd
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because in combustion motors fuel gets into the oil, its a fact of life. Gasoline does not lubricate, diesel does. Therefore diesel oil loses less lubrication when contaminated with fuel than gas motors and can have a longer service life. Also why diesel motors just plain last longer.
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because in combustion motors fuel gets into the oil, its a fact of life. Gasoline does not lubricate, diesel does. Therefore diesel oil loses less lubrication when contaminated with fuel than gas motors and can have a longer service life. Also why diesel motors just plain last longer.
the oil in a diesel never gets fuel contaminated in a properly working engine..
diesel oil gets more soot in it than anything else.. thats why you can change the oil on your diesel, and 5 minutes later with fresh oil its just as black as the oil you drained..
usually, no fuel gets in the lubrication oil. thats why diesels last so much longer. and the fact that the fuel isnt injected till TDC, so there is no solvent (fuel) washing the lubrication off the cylinder walls all the time..
and i kinda feel retarded saying this, but you CAN drive a VW 10k miles between oil changes. i just did it.
would i ever do it again? not a snow balls chance in hell.. im not even sure what that was that i drained out of my engine, but it was not oil. it was more like coal sludge. i really feel like an idiot for neglecting my engine for 6k miles, but i was broke, and things needed to get done..
anyways, these engines will run with completely worn out oil just fine.. i just wouldnt suggest it..
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We do a lot of oil particle count testing but do not do so on diesel engines because the soot prevents the particle count machine from functioning. This is on an engine with 8-10 hours on it. My concern with extended change intervals would be wear from the soot. Does it cause wear? I'm not sure but as previously mentioned by R.O.R., it definitely changes the oil consistency. The one time I would be willing to extend change intervals would be if I was using a bypass oil filter.
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the oil i drained out of my engine last week, it sheened off the drain plug like water beads up and sheens off your windshield after a fresh rain-x treatment..
it was more like water, than oil, but thick like syrup.. i really had no idea that oil could get so worn out in such a short period (relatively) of time..
i drove my toyota for way too long once, like 12-15k miles on one oil change, but i had 15w40 in there, and a nice big filter. when i drained that oil, it wasnt even completely black, and it still looked/smelled/felt like oil. i imagine that has something to do with the fact that gassers are alot easier on their oil. no 24:1 compression to deal with, or soot from the fuel burning..
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My oil pressure gauge even acts different with fresh oil, the needle bounces all over when the relief valve opens and closes. It only takes like 5 minutes to get normal.
Soot is the reason oil gets black, and that soot is abrasive so once you get too much in the oil it'll wear things out faster.
I have a frantz filter but haven't installed it yet so can't comment.......but I think it's supposed to trap soot.
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i just need to get a frantz..
amsoil bypass filters are also a good deal, ~$200 for a complete kit.. not specifically for our VWs, but im sure it will work.
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I was doing some reading last night, and there are a lot of variables that I never considered. Some were towing, trip length, turbos, dust/dirt conditions, etc..
Most people that were doing extended change intervals were running some type of bypass filter set-up, whether Frantz, Amsoil, etc. A lot of these guys were found in Ford Powerstroke, Cummins, and other big diesel forums.
Anywho, these guys were getting regular oil analysis, too. Some guys who did mainly highway driving were getting results that stated they could keep driving on oil that was already 12-15K miles old. Other results mentioned oil that had totally acceptable lubricating quality, but was contaminated with coked oil or other abrasive media that warranted a change.
Personally, I have a 15 minute commute to work, so I'll probably stick to 3k, maybe 4k intervals, until I add the Frantz. Reason being, the oil never/barely reaches full operating temperature, and the moisture that's not cooked out, degrades the oil faster.
The filters in the Frantz would still require changing about every 3.5K, but I'll probably shell out the $25 per test, just to get an idea where I stand.
-Todd
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i usually go 4k miles on mine, my dad puts nearly 7500 on his full synthetic oil which is rated for me in his 85 td. he does do an oil change half way through. oil has come a long way, and i don't feel bad doing 4k miles, honestly i think i could do way more than that, but i'd rather be safe than sorry. i don't think that the soot in the oil really effects anything, diesels are known for lasting as long and generally much longer than gas cars.
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i usually go 4k miles on mine, my dad puts nearly 7500 on his full synthetic oil which is rated for me in his 85 td. he does do an oil change half way through. oil has come a long way, and i don't feel bad doing 4k miles, honestly i think i could do way more than that, but i'd rather be safe than sorry. i don't think that the soot in the oil really effects anything, diesels are known for lasting as long and generally much longer than gas cars.
so to reiterate, you have the oil changed, but not the filter at 2000 miles? then the filter with oil at 4000 miles?
I'm on the border of needing to change my oil, but i've only driven 3000 miles on mine [5000 km] the oil is still reasonably full according to the dip stick, and other than that it's still reasonably smooth.
I think i may consider holding out for another 1000 miles [1600km] and see how it pans out.
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I think he means his dad changes the filter, halfway through the 7,500 mi. interval.
-Todd
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I think he means his dad changes the filter, halfway through the 7,500 mi. interval.
-Todd
oh wow, there's no way I'm going 7500 miles/12000 km between oil changes.
maybe on a new clean diesel tdi, but not on my dirty diesel.
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yes my dad changes his filter half way through.
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oh wow, there's no way I'm going 7500 miles/12000 km between oil changes.
maybe on a new clean diesel tdi, but not on my dirty diesel.
Black oil doesn't mean the oil isn't doing its job. Like I said before, there are a lot of contributing factors...
-Todd
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It hot down here in hell (Florida). I am running Mobil1 15w-50 for 6k miles. But they just changed the formula and it's no longer CF rated, so I will find some other synthetic. Rotella T6, most likely.
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maybe on a new clean diesel tdi, but not on my dirty diesel.
This is where I was coming from. 1981 vintage versus 2011. Lots of wear, lots of crap in the oil. Best insurance policy is early oil change is it not? I also think about the compression of these engines compared to the gassers. That has to factor into the potential wear and tear.
And yes I agree that just because it is black doesn't mean it isn't doing the job. Some diesel oils come black. But for a boy raised on the black is not beautiful concept when it comes to oil I have to change it out when it is that bad.
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Very interesting topic and one I "struggle" with. Lately, I have been extending my intervals somewhat due to "economics." However, I clearly remember the work (even if you get a kick out of spinning a wrench, etc) of rebuilding my last 3 VW diesels (not to mention all the nickles and dimes....that quickly grew into $100 bills.....and a fair stack of THOSE), and those memories get me nervous and I budget the coins and time to "get er done" before the interval stretches much.
Something I miss being able to readily do, when I was living at the farm, is that I used to pour about 1/2 gallon of diesel through the engine after draining out the oil. On the farm, you could always use the contaminated fuel to burn the house trash or burn some tall dry weeds somewhere, etc., but living in town and now looking at MUCH more expensive "go juice," the belief that I can still practice this has changed. I used to wash a LOT of soot out of those oil passages/drains and out of the pan. Nowdays, I only have gravity to work with. And, to be frank, the bottoms of some of the oil pans aren't as flat as they were when they left the factory ::).
Never run out of sheet to worry about.......
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This is where I was coming from. 1981 vintage versus 2011. Lots of wear, lots of crap in the oil. Best insurance policy is early oil change is it not? I also think about the compression of these engines compared to the gassers. That has to factor into the potential wear and tear.
I think a heathy engine would be a healthy engine, no matter how old it is. I'm not sure what you think is in your dirty oil, but if you're seeing metal or other contaminates, you've got bigger issues. Get your oil tested... It could be cheap insurance that an oil change wouldn't solve.
Changing the oil sooner definitely would be the best policy, but maybe not necessary. You could change the fuel filter every 3k, but is it necessary?
Diesel rated oil is designed to cope with the extreme conditions that the engines produce. There are a lot of added detergents and lubricating additives in there, such as ZDDP. Although (most of) these oils are being deemed acceptable for gassers, I've been reading some conflicting info, but that's another topic.
Something I miss being able to readily do, when I was living at the farm, is that I used to pour about 1/2 gallon of diesel through the engine after draining out the oil.
A friend of mine would dump a quart of clean oil in after daring his oil. I always thought he was wasting his time and money. My logic was, if he wasn't pulling the valve cover off, the oil was only going down the nearest drain.
Personally, I wouldn't worry about the diesel flushing. If you think your engine is that contaminated, either change the oil and filter, or just the filter after 1k of driving, then go back to the normal schedule. I used to do this to all used cars when I first got them. They were gassers, but the oil would be very clean between changes.... no way you'll experience this on a diesel, without some type of bypass filter.
-todd
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The filters in the Frantz would still require changing about every 3.5K, but I'll probably shell out the $25 per test, just to get an idea where I stand.
-Todd
haha, I had to laugh at the "filters" in the frantz, it's actually a roll of toilet paper......
I bought a "reconditioned" frantz setup for like $75. I called a dealer that I found online to ask some Qs and found out they sell used ones too. Waaaaay cheaper than new.
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Yeah, it's pretty much all the filter element is. I bought both of my NOS kits on Ebay.... I think I paid around $100 for one, and $75 for the other. There's a part that I need to buy for both since the TP cores increased diameter... maybe $5 each.
FWIW, this is the thread that I first read about Frantz, about 2 years ago. Take note of the color (or lack of) of the oil on the dipstick @ 5k miles. The lack of soot amazed me and made me research them. This guy had 20K miles on the oil in one of his trucks!
http://www.cumminsforum.com/articles/articles/18/1/Anatomy-of-a-Frantz-toilet-paper-bypass-oil-filter/Page1.html
There are a ton of other threads out there about them.
-Todd
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oh wow, there's no way I'm going 7500 miles/12000 km between oil changes.
maybe on a new clean diesel tdi, but not on my dirty diesel.
Black oil doesn't mean the oil isn't doing its job. Like I said before, there are a lot of contributing factors...
-Todd
i completely understand the fundamentals of diesel oil and the characterstics of it's duties, but I normally stick to a routine schedule of 6k give or take, on conventional oil.
going beyond that to 10-12k is pretty ballsy. I just hit 5000km on my current oil now. and with the weather being warmer where I am, i am "considering" extending it another 1000 km or so.
That and I'd like to do an oil change, and a coolant flush/fill right after eachother.
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because in combustion motors fuel gets into the oil, its a fact of life. Gasoline does not lubricate, diesel does. Therefore diesel oil loses less lubrication when contaminated with fuel than gas motors and can have a longer service life. Also why diesel motors just plain last longer.
the oil in a diesel never gets fuel contaminated in a properly working engine..
diesel oil gets more soot in it than anything else.. thats why you can change the oil on your diesel, and 5 minutes later with fresh oil its just as black as the oil you drained..
usually, no fuel gets in the lubrication oil. thats why diesels last so much longer. and the fact that the fuel isnt injected till TDC, so there is no solvent (fuel) washing the lubrication off the cylinder walls all the time..
and i kinda feel retarded saying this, but you CAN drive a VW 10k miles between oil changes. i just did it.
would i ever do it again? not a snow balls chance in hell.. im not even sure what that was that i drained out of my engine, but it was not oil. it was more like coal sludge. i really feel like an idiot for neglecting my engine for 6k miles, but i was broke, and things needed to get done..
anyways, these engines will run with completely worn out oil just fine.. i just wouldnt suggest it..
3 things are inside a running motor, fuel, air and oil: diesel soot is not air, or oil, so it MUST be fuel. When you romp on it, what comes out the tail pipe, black soot, or unburnt fuel). I see no reason why an idi with tdi oil can't run 5k (1/2 of a tdi interval). Especially when people are putting 20k on oil (with monitoring systems) in europe in tdis. It's alll the motor, the person, the climate. My 2.0 aba with 5w40 502.00+ and a diesel/1.8t filter can go like 8k before the oil starts being remotely dark on the dipstick.
Not even to consider: how many idi's are retired because of worn bearings or cylinder walls (within reasonable service life ex. 200k). What I am saying is: the point of oil changes is to prevent wear, when wear is rarely the case for motor failure. basically myke_w put it best stating: "if you have oil in your motor, registering your dipstick, you are ahead of the game.."
haha
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http://www.vwdiesel.net/forum/index.php?topic=19157.15 (http://www.vwdiesel.net/forum/index.php?topic=19157.15)
Keep in mind that what makes the oil look black to our eyes is particulates suspended in the oil. No matter how abrasive they are, they definitely do not lubricate like oil, so they accelerate wear to some extent. That extent varies based on the particulate composition. When oil sampling is done, the two most common methods are systems that use a laser to count the amount of restriction to the passage of the light through the oil to calculate particle size and quantity or a patch method (using a microscope and visual comparison with baseline samples. The patch method is what has to be used on diesel engine oil as all that soot prevents the laser system from working. What we see with our eyes is far beyond any ISO count level that would be commonly accepted. An ISO particle count level of 26/20/18 for example would greatly accelerate wear and yet would not look like a problem to the naked eye at all.
As far as changing the oil, with proper filtration and maintenance of the oil properties, the change is not required at all. Oil is not generally changed on diesel locomotives. They do a lot of filtration, including bypass filtration. They also do a lot of oil analysis to ensure that they maintain the desired lubrication and protection properties. They also do a very good job of ensuring that external contaminants don't enter the engines. However, for most of us, it is far simpler to just change the oil.
Another thing to keep in mind is that the vast majority of the engines you hear of that achieved 1,000,000 miles or some such number also mention that they change the oil far more frequently than most people would consider necessary. "Pay me now or pay me later."
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Bentley book says 10k between oil changes
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The Bentley ratings are most likely meant for the proper oil and filter to be used. With them in place I would not fear 10k
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To me the 1.5-2.0 VW is pretty suspect in the oil capacity department to start with.
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The Bentley ratings are most likely meant for the proper oil and filter to be used. With them in place I would not fear 10k
What's the proper oil and filter? er, is it better than what most people use? ;D
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i run shell rotella, i used to run the full synthetic but i'm going to try just regular for now, its half the price, and um i like having money in my pocket, things are quite different now that i am out on my own haha. I usually add a bottle of this stuff i forget the name i think it starts with an s, its really thick and gets really stringy like when you kiss an old lady and saliva trails out
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Last post was MAD dirty ;).
I mean like VW apprOved oils and OEM filters. I am currently running 15w40 rotella T6 Triple Protection with a Mann filter.
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My oil changes on these cars have ALWAYS been 8000m to 10000 kms (5-6000 miles). Wife's car is '91 1.6NA with 350,000 kms, burns no oil. Mine is an AAZ that I got used in a '92 jetta, don't know the total mileage on the engine, but I've put over 200,000 on it, same thing, burns no oil between changes. I buy filters in bulk quantities at the local auto parts stores (Napa brand or Carquest's store brand) whenever I can get them cheap. I use Cheap 15W40 oil that I buy at walmart or can tire, as long as it meets diesel spec I buy it. I use the same oil in my diesel tractor (3 cylinder perkins), my truck (354 perkins) and my other toy, a 1960 champion road grader with a 495 inch 4 cylinder cummins. Same goes for the lawnmower (John Deere with a kawasaki engine) and the bobcat (4 cylinder air cooled wisconsin).
NEVER had an oil related failure. NEVER.
Don't sweat the small stuff. These things are pretty tough. Change the oil once in a while, and KEEP the air filters clean, make sure there's no leaks between the air filter and the engine. Dirty air will cost you a lot more a lot faster than stretched out oil changes! (been there done that)
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yes i used to always use mann filters since they are oem, but i have been using napa gold filters lately, they are made by wix, and actually are very very good, mann still has thicker air filters tho.
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I use Cheap 15W40 oil that I buy at walmart or can tire, as long as it meets diesel spec I buy it. I use the same oil in my diesel tractor (3 cylinder perkins), my truck (354 perkins) and my other toy, a 1960 champion road grader with a 495 inch 4 cylinder cummins. Same goes for the lawnmower (John Deere with a kawasaki engine) and the bobcat (4 cylinder air cooled wisconsin).
NEVER had an oil related failure. NEVER.
Don't sweat the small stuff. These things are pretty tough. Change the oil once in a while, and KEEP the air filters clean, make sure there's no leaks between the air filter and the engine. Dirty air will cost you a lot more a lot faster than stretched out oil changes! (been there done that)
Here's something that hasn't been brought up. Using cheaper oil isn't a bad thing if you're getting the same protection. It'll take some of the expense out if extended changes don't appeal to you. I know for a fact that Walmart , and other discount and auto stores doesn't have their own refineries, so someones got to be selling it them under contract. Now, how often that contract changes is anybody's guess. I remember looking at the back of 2 ATF bottles, last Summer; I was comparing Walmart Supertech brand and Pennzoil. They read exactly the same, word for word.... pretty good indication that Supertech is Pennzoil.
Another good point about the air filter, the less crap that the engine ingests, the less crap that will make it into the oil. Mann sells a HD filter that's less than $0.50 more than their OE replacement. Pretty thick, and less than $7.
-Todd
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To me the 1.5-2.0 VW is pretty suspect in the oil capacity department to start with.
isnt 5 quarts enough?
my buddies neon SRT4 only holds 4 quarts with a full filter.. and its a 2.4L turbo engine..
our diesels hold almost 6 quarts..
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Diesels hold the same 4.5L (with new filter) as the gasoline engines. Atleast thats what my manual says.
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Diesels hold the same 4.5L (with new filter) as the gasoline engines. Atleast thats what my manual says.
maybe n/a diesels. but the TD oil pan is bigger. look at the sticker on the back of the pan. it says something like "caution, this car is fitted with a larger oil pan" then it gives the fill capacities also. the TD holds almost a quart more oil.. swear over my left one..
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Every 3000 miles.
Somebody mentioned extended drain intervals and what people are doing to their diesel trucks. It's not a comparable situation. My Cummins holds three times as much oil (of course, the engine is more than 3 times larger) and has an oil filter that's also 3 times the size as the VW. And, these are directly-injected diesels, they burn cleaner than our old IDI's, they don't throw so much soot into the oil. The soot isn't really that bad for it but if you push it too long on our engines it's like you have more soot than oil going through it.
I also like the German oil filters, if only because they have that thing on them so you can remove it with a screwdriver which makes it a lot easier due to where VW put the oil filter in the first place.
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Every 3000 miles.
Somebody mentioned extended drain intervals and what people are doing to their diesel trucks. It's not a comparable situation. My Cummins holds three times as much oil (of course, the engine is more than 3 times larger) and has an oil filter that's also 3 times the size as the VW. And, these are directly-injected diesels, they burn cleaner than our old IDI's, they don't throw so much soot into the oil. The soot isn't really that bad for it but if you push it too long on our engines it's like you have more soot than oil going through it.
I also like the German oil filters, if only because they have that thing on them so you can remove it with a screwdriver which makes it a lot easier due to where VW put the oil filter in the first place.
whats wrong with where VW put the filter, its right up front, standing up, easily accessible..
if you think the VW filter is hard to change, then service a honda... oil filter on the back of the engine, and you have to reach past the scorching hot catastrophic converter to get at it.. we had a "honda glove" at work, for getting to the filters on hondas. it was like an OVE GLOVE, but it was elbow length..
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My oil changes on these cars have ALWAYS been 8000m to 10000 kms (5-6000 miles). Wife's car is '91 1.6NA with 350,000 kms, burns no oil. Mine is an AAZ that I got used in a '92 jetta, don't know the total mileage on the engine, but I've put over 200,000 on it, same thing, burns no oil between changes. I buy filters in bulk quantities at the local auto parts stores (Napa brand or Carquest's store brand) whenever I can get them cheap. I use Cheap 15W40 oil that I buy at walmart or can tire, as long as it meets diesel spec I buy it. I use the same oil in my diesel tractor (3 cylinder perkins), my truck (354 perkins) and my other toy, a 1960 champion road grader with a 495 inch 4 cylinder cummins. Same goes for the lawnmower (John Deere with a kawasaki engine) and the bobcat (4 cylinder air cooled wisconsin).
NEVER had an oil related failure. NEVER.
Don't sweat the small stuff. These things are pretty tough. Change the oil once in a while, and KEEP the air filters clean, make sure there's no leaks between the air filter and the engine. Dirty air will cost you a lot more a lot faster than stretched out oil changes! (been there done that)
BTW, 20 litre pails are a LOT cheaper than 4 litre jugs!
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whats wrong with where VW put the filter, its right up front, standing up, easily accessible..
if you think the VW filter is hard to change, then service a honda... oil filter on the back of the engine, and you have to reach past the scorching hot catastrophic converter to get at it.. we had a "honda glove" at work, for getting to the filters on hondas. it was like an OVE GLOVE, but it was elbow length..
I agree other manufacturers have chosen poor locations for the oil filter. The problem with the VW is the cross-member/subframe thing in front of the engine. Mk1s are pretty easy and mk2s not too bad but mk3 and up, it's a pain, partially because of the big bumper which seems to get in the way of things if the car isn't on a lift. It's hard to put a wrench around the oil filter because of that cross-member being in the way and since the oil filter sits at a slant, it's hard to remove it without spilling oil on the cross-member which then goes everywhere and that needs to be cleaned up... maybe nobody else cleans it up... In my mind, easy, unobstructed access to the oil filter and air filter should be design criteria.
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my mk1s and mk2s are cake to do oil changes.. thats for sure.
how do you get oil on the front cross member? dont you loosen the filter s few turns and let the excess oil run down the side of the filter?
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I'm going with a remote oil filter set up with a dual filter element. I bought 2 transadapt kits. One for my vw and one for my landcruiser hzj75.
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it's hard to remove it without spilling oil on the cross-member which then goes everywhere and that needs to be cleaned up... maybe nobody else cleans it up...
Prior to pulling the filter spray everything down with soapy water, and give it a few minutes to dry. For easy cleanup, spray everything down with a garden hose, when you're done.
-Todd
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I just did the Mk2 this weekend and I think it's a PITA. The front crossmember interferes with sticking a cap type remover on the filter. I guess a strap wrench might work. Then there's the issue with the German filters and that lug on the end that I haven't figured out how to deal with yet.
How do you guy's handle it?
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hahahah, all a chasis cars are easy, every motor, every one of them....
try doing a large oil filter on an audi TT
or a cooling flange on a b6 a4 1.8t.
that is hard.
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how do you get oil on the front cross member? dont you loosen the filter s few turns and let the excess oil run down the side of the filter?
Mine drips down the filter and all over the block/oil pan/cross member... I prefer changing the filter on my 302. lol
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how do you get oil on the front cross member? dont you loosen the filter s few turns and let the excess oil run down the side of the filter?
Mine drips down the filter and all over the block/oil pan/cross member... I prefer changing the filter on my 302. lol
I coat those areas with vaseline and then wipe them off after the oil change.
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I don't change my oil anymore.. ;D ;D
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I don't change my oil anymore.. ;D ;D
just keep adding oil ;)
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just keep adding oil ;)
Sometimes when I feel like it, or the light starts flickering... Whichever comes first...
I must say, this 20 some year old 30 weight compressor oil I've been using seems to stay in there a while..
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Compressor oil eh? Why not! lol
Have you tried or thought of running a thicker than that oil?? Like a straight 50 weight?
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I never tried 50 weight in it.. Probably would help the consumption.. But I have about 10 gallons of this compressor oil, and it was free... My guess is the slurry of multiple oils and crap from not being changed in forever is helping plug things up...
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crap from not being changed in forever is helping plug things up..
yeah like those oil galleries and holes that lube parts unseen or maybe even the valve sleeves. I wonder what would come out of the engine if you added a couple of quarts of diesel and ran it a few minutes like some of the earlier posters mentioned. Might find half the engine in the oil pan as shavings. Then how would you ever get them back together again.
Maybe you start running SAE 75 or 90 gear oil in there with a quart or two of 10-40. That would thicken it up a bit.
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I thought about that, but I got to thinking about it, and if I go too thick, that may make things worse with higher oil pressure.. The question is, would the thicker oil flow though the crack in the block slower, or from the higher pressure would it go though faster??? Hmmm
Ambient temp seems to make the biggest difference.. Now that it's warmer I haven't had to clean near as much oil out of the coolant..
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I thought about that, but I got to thinking about it, and if I go too thick, that may make things worse with higher oil pressure.. The question is, would the thicker oil flow though the crack in the block slower, or from the higher pressure would it go though faster??? Hmmm
Ambient temp seems to make the biggest difference.. Now that it's warmer I haven't had to clean near as much oil out of the coolant..
4 quarts 20w50, and a quart of gear oil would work out just fine..
and yes, you can run straight gear oil in one of these engines. IN THE CRANK CASE.. my 5k TD would go thru a quart of oil to a gallon of fuel.. it took it about 100 miles to use a quart of gear oil..
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man if I was going thru that much oil and gas in combination i would be seriously looking at a fix. That is way to high a price to pay for going 40 or more miles. Might as well be driving in real style and comfort in a big butt Ford F350 or something like it.
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man if I was going thru that much oil and gas in combination i would be seriously looking at a fix. That is way to high a price to pay for going 40 or more miles. Might as well be driving in real style and comfort in a big butt Ford F350 or something like it.
dude, it was an audi 5000 TD that i paid 250 bucks for.. i bought it strictly for the engine. i didnt care how much oil it burned, it made it from the california border, to the washington border.. (literally the entire length of oregon)
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isnt 5 quarts enough?
my buddies neon SRT4 only holds 4 quarts with a full filter.. and its a 2.4L turbo engine..
our diesels hold almost 6 quarts..
My D24 holds 7.5 if I don't use the big filter. 3.1 Qt/L
MBZ is pretty close to that as well.
7.3 Powerstroke has 14qts, or 1.9Qt/L
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didnt care how much oil it burned, it made it from the california border, to the washington border
Now I know why hwy 101 doesn't need all that much paving between Brookings and North Bend. All them dripping oil pans coming up from the border. Once they make it to NB they are out of oil. I sure hope you rebuilt that leaking bucket of bolts.
Perhaps you did this trip before the price of petrol jumped to 4 bucks a gallon along the coast. Be nice if the price would come down for the holiday. Could use with some tourists in town.
later
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didnt care how much oil it burned, it made it from the california border, to the washington border
Now I know why hwy 101 doesn't need all that much paving between Brookings and North Bend. All them dripping oil pans coming up from the border. Once they make it to NB they are out of oil. I sure hope you rebuilt that leaking bucket of bolts.
Perhaps you did this trip before the price of petrol jumped to 4 bucks a gallon along the coast. Be nice if the price would come down for the holiday. Could use with some tourists in town.
later
i NEVER drive 101 for longer than like 40 miles at a time.. im talking I-5.. 70 mph, and long LONG hills.. in an audi 5k TD with exhaust leaks so bad the wastegate didnt work the whole trip home.. it would make like 6-7 psi @ wot.. some of those hills, i was going like 50 at the top.. from a run of 80 mph at the bottom. one of the battery wires shorted out, burned the terminal right off the wire. stranded 100 miles from nowhere, thank god i had vice grips, i stuck the end of the wire on the battery post, and vice gripped it on there. then not even 50 miles down the road, the rear driver tire EXPLODES. like a good enough explosion i thought the engine fell out of the car or something, oil light and coolant lights were going off, along with their respective alarms.. from a damn tire.. that car fought me the whole way home. hell, it fought me till i actually did some work to it..
no, i never re-built that engine, its still sitting in the car right now. if i ever come across the funds to rebuild it, im going to put the 5 cylinder in my 88 Toyota 4runner..
damn, its amazing the purposes of vice grips! i drive my black rabbit around for thousands of miles with vice grips clamped on the stub left that used to be the shifter.. never even locked that car, just took the keys, and the vice grips.. lol. you would have to be DAMN DETERMINED to steal a car with no shifter..
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my trick I learned from dumpin oil on Semi's was to get a screwdriver you never use, and sharpen it into a punch,
and then on the downward edge pop the filter, let it drain same as the block (same time)
i do that on my MK3 1.9 TD
haven't made a mess yet, hell after 10 years if I get oil on my hands its a piss off.
Pete
John Deere
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That is GENIUS.
I will use it next time I change my oil! When I get back to Ontario from Nova Scotia!
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my trick I learned from dumpin oil on Semi's was to get a screwdriver you never use, and sharpen it into a punch,
and then on the downward edge pop the filter, let it drain same as the block (same time)
i do that on my MK3 1.9 TD
haven't made a mess yet, hell after 10 years if I get oil on my hands its a piss off.
Pete
John Deere
on ALL my cars, if you drain the oil, then when the oil is drained, the filter has drained enough that you can take it off without making a mess. you have to spin it off quick tho, to keep oil from running down the side of the filter..
never had to punch a filter, and never made a mess. only mess comes from the oil cooler, and thats only if i didnt let the filter sit long enough and drain back into the engine.
punching a hole in the filter isnt a bad idea, ive just never found it necessary.
im with pete, i hate getting oil on my hands. a coulpe drips from taking the drain plug out is one thing, but it pisses me off when it runs up to my elbows..
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Let it run out on the floor and roll in it.. Then you won;t care much about oily fingers.. ;D
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ROR, if a filter lets it drain back that means its a bad filter!
An oil filter like these should hold oil above it in the lines, with its drain back valve
I get 3 times as much as the filter will hold when I pop mine.
And thats after the engines drained
And I only use John Deere filters, there are very good and I get them for one dollar at work
Beat That.
Oh if you have access to a John Deere dealer.
the part number is TY9425E
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let me re-word that..
the flange has drained enough that there wont be oil flowing down the side of the filter as soon as you break the seal..
the oil heater and oil filter flange DO drain back into the engine.. thats what i was talking about. when i take the oil filter off, its still full, right up to the anti-drain back valve.. just the oil heater and filter flange have less oil in them to run down the back of the filter, and front of the block..
does that make more sense?
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Hmm, then somethins gotta be different, if I let my car sit for 25 min after pullin plug, even then unscrewin my filter gets me a flow of oil down the sides and I crack it loose.
Oh and I do recommend the JD filter. Excellent quality, we were cuttin them open and others at school.
Steel caged!
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Hmm, then somethins gotta be different, if I let my car sit for 25 min after pullin plug, even then unscrewin my filter gets me a flow of oil down the sides and I crack it loose.
Oh and I do recommend the JD filter. Excellent quality, we were cuttin them open and others at school.
Steel caged!
thats gonna be one upgrade i will probably never run.. i can get napa gold filters (WIX) for about $5/ea, and thats good enough for me. guarantee theres no way the JD filter would be even close to that cheap..
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yeah, to the public they are pricey.
I work for John Deere,
so I get them for 1 dollar
5 dollar filter? you gettin hosed man!
haha
hey I am gonna post a pic of the ultimate turbo! for 4 cylinders!
Can you say water cooled VGT actuator!!
coming soon
hint! (its green)
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yeah, to the public they are pricey.
I work for John Deere,
so I get them for 1 dollar
5 dollar filter? you gettin hosed man!
haha
hey I am gonna post a pic of the ultimate turbo! for 4 cylinders!
Can you say water cooled VGT actuator!!
coming soon
hint! (its green)
dude, $5 is the cheapest i can get a filter here.. if i go to the parts store close to my house, its $13.. for an 1191 WIX..
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Thats cool man. I know for a while I was able to get bulk from Oil Mart for my buddies 89 F-450 at 3 dollars a filter. those were WIX as well.
Oil Mart is a sweet lube store and they are building a big one on the road to the city from my town.
Score!
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I was so impressed with their Diesel Purge I splurged on the oil and went with some of this
http://www.liqui-moly.de/liquimoly/produktdb.nsf/id/en_1360.html?Opendocument&land=DE&voilalang=e&voiladb=web.nsf
I had bought a 3 pack of Mann filters when I first got the car so I put a fresh one of those in. 5000 miles on Rotella. No issues. I only have a couple hundred miles on it but Ill see if there is a difference in fuel economy.
Oh wait, I also just put on some fresh 185/70's and got a much needed alignment, so that test is null. ::)
Rides so much nicer! Has me totally rethinking lowering it! Lower RPM's, and they really soak up the bumps.
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I was so impressed with their Diesel Purge I splurged on the oil and went with some of this
http://www.liqui-moly.de/liquimoly/produktdb.nsf/id/en_1360.html?Opendocument&land=DE&voilalang=e&voiladb=web.nsf
I had bought a 3 pack of Mann filters when I first got the car so I put a fresh one of those in. 5000 miles on Rotella. No issues. I only have a couple hundred miles on it but Ill see if there is a difference in fuel economy.
Oh wait, I also just put on some fresh 185/70's and got a much needed alignment, so that test is null. ::)
Rides so much nicer! Has me totally rethinking lowering it! Lower RPM's, and they really soak up the bumps.
13 or 14" wheel? those tires are gonna suck your mileage down atleast 3-4 mpg if on a 14"
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There on my snowflakes. 14's. Its runnin 400 rpm less at 65 mph. Why would I get less mpg? Its the same aspect ratio as the previous set. Added weight is the only thing I could think of that may effect it but sureley not enough to offset the less fuel bein used to run 400 rpm less at desired speed.
Interested in your response.
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Well not to mention the 14" snowflakes are an alloy, and therefore probably weigh less than a 13" steel.. so its not like rotating mass is any different. I have 185/60/14's on my snowflakes and I didn't notice any mileage difference between 14" alloy and steel, or 13" alloy or steel.
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Width. More wider is more badder for mileage.
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If your comparing 245's to the 185's i'd say so, but 185 and 175? Then you factor in the offset of the lower rpm's, and your probably not any worse off.
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The difference from 175 to 155 is huge. I don't know about the 185 to 175 the only thing I have done with that is my snow tires and I did see a jump in mileage but only had them for 1 week and it was time to take them off.
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From the book "How to Select a Motor Oil for Your Car or Truck":
Sooner or later, wear from abrasive particles and deposits from carbon and oxide insolubles will interfere with efficient combustion in an engine. Valve train wear (cams, valve guides, etc.) can impact timing and valve movement. Wear of rings, pistons and cylinder walls influences volumetric compression efficiency and combustion blow-by resulting in power loss. Particle-induced wear is greatest when the particle sizes are in the same range as the oil film thickness.
For diesel and gasoline engines, there is a surprising number of laboratory and field studies that report the need to control particles below 10 microns. One such study by General Motors concluded that, "controlling particles in the 3 micron to 10 micron range had the greatest impact on wear rates and that engine wear rates correlated directly to the dust concentration levels in the sump."
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I was so impressed with their Diesel Purge I splurged on the oil and went with some of this
http://www.liqui-moly.de/liquimoly/produktdb.nsf/id/en_1360.html?Opendocument&land=DE&voilalang=e&voiladb=web.nsf
I had bought a 3 pack of Mann filters when I first got the car so I put a fresh one of those in. 5000 miles on Rotella. No issues. I only have a couple hundred miles on it but Ill see if there is a difference in fuel economy.
Oh wait, I also just put on some fresh 185/70's and got a much needed alignment, so that test is null. ::)
Rides so much nicer! Has me totally rethinking lowering it! Lower RPM's, and they really soak up the bumps.
13 or 14" wheel? those tires are gonna suck your mileage down atleast 3-4 mpg if on a 14"
our cars call for 175/70/13's...
my car has 185/70/14's on it, they are about 3" taller than stock size. and about 2 inches wider..
increased height, and width are badder for mileage.. pizza cutters are where you get the mileage.
my speedo reads 55mph when im doing 63mph.. so your speedo will be off DieselBalz.. WAY OFF..
my GTI got 34 mpg on the freeway with 165/80/13's..
with the 185's, all the better it would do is 30..
my wheels are LIGHT too.. old skool enkei 92s..
i didnt post up something just to waste my breath.. your car is going to get worse mileage, i dont care if its a diesel or not..
185/70/14 is the stock tire size on audi 5k cars.. FWIW.. not even close to the stock mk2 tire size..
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I went from 185/60's to 185/70's. I'm on my first tank after the changes. Ill letcha know.
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just so you guys know, the first number, is tire width..
the second number is how tall the sidewall is, the second number is basically an aspect ratio..
185/70/14 would be read as, 185mm wide, sidewall is 70% of 185mm, and it fits on a 14" wheel..
check your speedo dude, you will see that its WAY OFF now.. actual 55 mph is just right below the 50 mph mark on the speedo..
if your going 55 on your speedo, you are really doing 63 mph..
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If that's the case than I am doing less rpms than I originally thought. Like I said though ill kee an eye on it and report back.
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our cars call for 175/70/13's...
my car has 185/70/14's on it, they are about 3" taller than stock size. and about 2 inches wider..
No way.
175/70/13-
-sidewall 4.8"
-radius 11.3"
-diameter 22.6"
-circum 71.1"
-revs/mile 891
185/70/14
-sidewall 5.1"
-radius 12.1
-diam 24.2"
-circum 76"
revs/mile 834
Your tire is only 1.8" taller, and half inch wider.. where'd you get 2"?? that'd be the difference between a 175 and a 225 :o. Also when your speedo reads 60, your actually doing 64.1. %6.8 too slow.
DieselBalz, Keep it under a 225 tire.. and I think you'll alright.. ;) There is negligible difference between a 155 and 185 even.. Don't sweat it. If your really worried about the tires being your biggest drawback, get some of those hyper-mileage tires :)
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I am telling you the wider the tire the more you will lose in mileage. It is very noticeable with my car, and all the other ones I have owned. Best mileage and WORST ride were the 155/80r13 tires.
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Rolling resistance is equal to width on the road is it not? That is why the skinny tires, 155s do roll so well. The wide fat boys 225s just don't roll like their little brothers. Any idea on how siping affects tires for heat and mileage? Strange that cutting a tire up like that will reduce friction and increase traction. Anyone running such tires? Or are we all to cheap to do that? I am looking for new tires by the end of the summer and with all the rain driving I do I may buy into it.
Opps sorry thread hijack.
Off topic my bad
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So you are saying that my 205/45/ZR17's are hurting? haha
Maybe, but i'll take it cause the handling is out of this world
i still pulled 876k on the last tank, so can't be all that bad
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If you need calculator for tires here it`s http://www.internet-prodaja-guma.com/pages.php?pageid=12 (http://www.internet-prodaja-guma.com/pages.php?pageid=12)
Perhaps no need for translation.Best
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English site, with visual! :)
http://www.miata.net/garage/tirecalc.html
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our cars call for 175/70/13's...
my car has 185/70/14's on it, they are about 3" taller than stock size. and about 2 inches wider..
No way.
175/70/13-
-sidewall 4.8"
-radius 11.3"
-diameter 22.6"
-circum 71.1"
-revs/mile 891
185/70/14
-sidewall 5.1"
-radius 12.1
-diam 24.2"
-circum 76"
revs/mile 834
Your tire is only 1.8" taller, and half inch wider.. where'd you get 2"?? that'd be the difference between a 175 and a 225 :o. Also when your speedo reads 60, your actually doing 64.1. %6.8 too slow.
DieselBalz, Keep it under a 225 tire.. and I think you'll alright.. ;) There is negligible difference between a 155 and 185 even.. Don't sweat it. If your really worried about the tires being your biggest drawback, get some of those hyper-mileage tires :)
dude, i got pulled over the other day, speedo was dead nuts @ 55 mph.. cop radar'd me at 63..
dug my GPS out the next day, and sure enough, she was not lying, i really do go 63 mph @ 55 on the speedo..
and my 185/70s rub on my mk2.. like rub good enough to mess the arches up..
im just letting the dude know what hes in for is all..
i thought my 205/40/17s were tall on a mk2, until i stood one of my 185s up next to it last night.. my 185s are still an inch taller than a 205/40
and how could you say that there is little difference between a 155 and a 185 tire? thats a very false statement for sure.
like Lucas already stated, best mileage, and worst ride are to be had with 155/80 tires..
wider tires on a VW really do take mileage away.. ive experimented with LOTS of different tire sizes.. the best ecno tires are 155s and 165s..
had 165/80 snow tires on my GTI, and it would do 30 mpg all the time around home. then i switched to some 185/70 road tires, and my mileage dropped to 27 mpg, no matter how much i babied it..
and the power difference from a narrow tire, to a wide tire, is un believeable..
i can barely catch traction with my 155/80s on my rabbit.. but it hardly gets out of its own way with 205/40/17's on it.. definitely a noticeable difference in power.
look, you guys all have your own agendas, and ways of doing things, but im just saying that by my standards, 185/70s and anything bigger than that are too big for a VW..
numbers dont lie tho.. plain and simple..
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Truth. Anything under a 195 is A-okay by me.
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your prolly running 13" wheels tho.. and a 195 will probably clear with a 13.
but with some offset 14" enkei 92s and some 195's they would rub while turning, and when hitting bumps..
oh yea, i forgot to mention..
my 185/70s rub on the inner fender well when you turn hard over..
like, back by where the rack n pinion goes, it rubs back there on the inner fender..
to me, any tire that rubs, is too big.
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I did not go wider, just taller. Lower rpms on the highway is my agenda. It is definitely lower on the tach at desired speed, but I am gonna have to check on the difference on the speedo. I was expecting a difference as one time I put a smaller tire on my F150 and it messed with the speedo. I would go through those little trailers the Sherrif's dept sets up that lets ya know how fast youre going and would be five mph off.
I am assuming that less rpm's mean better fuel mileage. Since I didnt go wider, shouldnt I see a better mph?
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if your speedo is correct with 175/70/13s (the specified tire size for most mk2 cars) then its way off (8mph) with the 185/70/14s..
trust me.. my speedo was dead nuts with the old tires on the car, now its 8mph off. was with my GTI also, same with the rabbit when they were on it.
idk how you wouldnt have the same 8mph deficit as i do..
no, i really doubt you are going to see any mileage GAINS from bigger tires.
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Yeah, I feel the difference with my 17's on. No more wheel spin, at all!
CLutch will slip before my yokohama's do.
So I'm thinking, need a new clutch.
Acceleration is down a lil bit, but my highway momentum and passing power is up actually.
Cruises easier at 125 kmph. I use my boost gauge as a load indicator.
Truth be told I did get my best tanks when I rolled with my 185/65R14's, but I hated the handling.
I pulled three tanks of 940, 925,985 with those tires. So I do lose 100K per tank
But all in all, good balance!
and the car is gonna roll 600,000k so it doesn't owe me anything!
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Yeah, I feel the difference with my 17's on. No more wheel spin, at all!
CLutch will slip before my yokohama's do.
So I'm thinking, need a new clutch.
Acceleration is down a lil bit, but my highway momentum and passing power is up actually.
Cruises easier at 125 kmph. I use my boost gauge as a load indicator.
Truth be told I did get my best tanks when I rolled with my 185/65R14's, but I hated the handling.
I pulled three tanks of 940, 925,985 with those tires. So I do lose 100K per tank
But all in all, good balance!
and the car is gonna roll 600,000k so it doesn't owe me anything!
yea, my diesel, with a good clutch, will barely burn my 17s.. its just a dog..
but with the stock rabbit wheels, and tiny snow tires, it just frys the tires off, basically without even trying.
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I will have to try that. Even living in Kanada! I have never bought snow tires.
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I will have to try that. Even living in Kanada! I have never bought snow tires.
i didnt buy them, but when i bought my car, it was summer time, and the car came with studs, so my first order of business was to de-stud the tires. after that, i drove it with those tires for a while.. they really work good in the snow even without studs..
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I run 195/60 15's on BBs rims on a late mk2 jetta. No clearance problems, and 972 kms on the last tank. The AAZ twisted up too.
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you know with big tires mileage reads high, right? when I had 15s on corrado steelies on my caddy, it was nearly 60 miles per tank wrong.
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Rim size is not a factor, its the overall diameter of the tires that changes your gear ratio.
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Rim size is not a factor, its the overall diameter of the tires that changes your gear ratio.
a 185/70/13 is most definitely smaller than a 185/70/14..
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I just swapped over from 155.80.13 winters on OEM vw alloys to 205.50.15 performance summers on OEM corrado steelies.
HUGE difference in acceleration and hill climbing, but much better over all cruising and corner speed entry/exit. Makes me want to have an intercooler quick just in general.
It's mainly for highway cruising and the occasional corner carving. As I don't see myself keeping these tires on for longer than 6 months out of the year. The other 6 months will have the winters for my mountain expeditions.
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Rim size is not a factor, its the overall diameter of the tires that changes your gear ratio.
a 185/70/13 is most definitely smaller than a 185/70/14..
Could very well be, I don't have the two to measure. But rim size doesn't affect your odometer/mileage, its the circumference of the tire.
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Rim size is not a factor, its the overall diameter of the tires that changes your gear ratio.
a 185/70/13 is most definitely smaller than a 185/70/14..
Could very well be, I don't have the two to measure. But rim size doesn't affect your odometer/mileage, its the circumference of the tire.
rim size may not directly affect your odometer, but the bigger tire circumference on that wheel sure will make the odometer..
look you guys, im not talking to hear my brains rattle.. bigger tires and rims will make a difference.. 185/70/14 tires are big on a mk2, and HUGE on a mk1.. they DO make your odometer read slow, and 185/70/14's ARE BIGGER than 185/70/13s.. over an inch taller..
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He isn't joking...nor was I :D
http://www.scirocco.org/gears/
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205/50/15 (this size just used as example, because the math was easy to do in my head)
=
205mm wide, side wall being 50% of the width of the tire (102.5mm in this case) on a 15" wheel..
if the tire size does not change, but the rim size does (205/50/16) then the tire height will increase atleast 1" from the bigger wheel..
the tire is still 205mm wide, and the sidewall is still 102.5mm, so there is NO WAY IN HELL that a 205/50/15 and a 205/50/16 are the same size.. width, yes.. height, not even close..
your 185/70/14s are ATLEAST 1" taller than your same tires on 13" wheels.. you WILL LOSE FUEL ECONOMY. if i lost 3mpg on my gasser, i expect you to see similar losses..
metric tires are measured by width, and sidewall aspect ratio, not the actual width and height like SAE tires.. (a 31x10.50, is still a 31x10.50 no matter what diameter of wheel is inside it)
with metric tires, if the tire size stays the same, but the wheel size increases, the tire diameter increases also.. plain and simple.. if you dont believe me, Wikipedia that S#!T or something...
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(a 31x10.50, is still a 31x10.50 no matter what size wheel is inside it)
Rim width will change the OD of the tire, found that out the hard way. Had to move my exhaust when I went from 10" to 8" rims with the same tires on my jeep.
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(a 31x10.50, is still a 31x10.50 no matter what size wheel is inside it)
Rim width will change the OD of the tire, found that out the hard way. Had to move my exhaust when I went from 10" to 8" rims with the same tires on my jeep.
im talking wheel diameter tho, not width..
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Rim size is not a factor, its the overall diameter of the tires that changes your gear ratio.
a 185/70/13 is most definitely smaller than a 185/70/14..
100% correct.
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Rim size is not a factor, its the overall diameter of the tires that changes your gear ratio.
a 185/70/13 is most definitely smaller than a 185/70/14..
100% correct.
And a 185/60/14 is smaller than a 185/70/13, and my point is just because the rim is bigger doesn't always mean the tire/wheel combo will be a bigger diameter.
You very well could end up with identical diameters between various 13" and 14" tire and wheel combinations, but overall diameter is whats gonna affect speedo and mileage.
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Rim size is not a factor, its the overall diameter of the tires that changes your gear ratio.
a 185/70/13 is most definitely smaller than a 185/70/14..
100% correct.
And a 185/60/14 is smaller than a 185/70/13, and my point is just because the rim is bigger doesn't always mean the tire/wheel combo will be a bigger diameter.
You very well could end up with identical diameters between various 13" and 14" tire and wheel combinations, but overall diameter is whats gonna affect speedo and mileage.
im 100% aware..
the bigger, heavier wheel will achieve less economy tho..
ive never disagreed with you about wheel diameter..
all im saying, is that if you have 2 of the same size tires, with different wheels size, then the tires are not the same size..
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Wow, you guys really worry about tires!
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Wow, you guys really worry about tires!
Even more worry and bickering over 2-3mpg :O.. lmao Every day above 20 is GOOD FOR ME :D:D
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its not about that.. its about being correct, and people thinking otherwise.. when ive been there and done that, got the t-shirt.. i know what happens..
and i know a thing or 2 about tires.. especially that metric tires and SAE tires are measured differently..
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Well I am still gettin an MPG done, and will have results soon (not that they are some deciding factor). But to swing it back around to the oil changes, how about some filter talk?
Found this over on Vortex http://forums.redflagdeals.com/important-oil-filters-1005723/
I am so happy I have Mann filters for the Eco I bought a 3 pack when I got it..
Now I need to figure out a better filter for the F150.
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JD Filters all the way
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Do you have a JD part # that works on our diesels?
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Blackbirds gave us this on Page 4 of this thread.
Oh if you have access to a John Deere dealer.
the part number is TY9425E
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Sorry there has been like 563 posts about nothing to do with oil changes at all.. Hard to keep track, plus I'm on my phone so I can't see the whole thread at a time.. Only a few posts.
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Sorry there has been like 563 posts about nothing to do with oil changes at all.. Hard to keep track, plus I'm on my phone so I can't see the whole thread at a time.. Only a few posts.
Sorry bout that.
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yeah, kind of morphed into a discussion on rolling parts not lube. And it got kind of tense a few posts.
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it gets intense all in the name of VWs!
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Ha, ya. All in all. I change my oil every 4,000k or as it happens to be. every month. I use the JD filter and usually run 5w40 Synthetic Duron XL Petro-Canada Oil. It has the JX extreme testing spec. Very good to look out for.
I also before changes, as it is usually a little lower add 1liter of diesel to the oil and idle it for 25 min.
But I need to removed the oil cooler and change the o-rings in there. leaks around my filter mount.
Peace.
Oh and it in cold cold Winterpeg today is 36 degrees Celsius and 99 percent humidity.
There goes my balls, I just sweat them off.
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I also before changes, as it is usually a little lower add 1liter of diesel to the oil and idle it for 25 min.
Hmmmm... I haven't used an engine flush in about 2 decades. 1 liter is about 20% of full oil capacity. I wonder if it's safe to thin the oil that much. At idle, it probably isn't a huge deal, but I wonder if adding about half a liter would be better/safer.
If you don't extend the oil changes by a rediculous number and use a quality filter, I'm wondering if it's needed at all.
-Todd
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I also before changes, as it is usually a little lower add 1liter of diesel to the oil and idle it for 25 min.
Hmmmm... I haven't used an engine flush in about 2 decades. 1 liter is about 20% of full oil capacity. I wonder if it's safe to thin the oil that much. At idle, it probably isn't a huge deal, but I wonder if adding about half a liter would be better/safer.
If you don't extend the oil changes by a rediculous number and use a quality filter, I'm wondering if it's needed at all.
-Todd
i like dumping in a quart of ATF.. it has soo much detergent in it, and it cleans fast.. i should have taken before and after pics of my newest 8v that i flushed like that.. i was a quart low, so i topped back up with ATF, and my oil wasnt even that dark yet.. boy, the next few times i checked my oil, the stuff on the dip stick was getting darker. and got darker every time i checked, until i drained the oil.. i ran that quart for probably a week or more. under the valve cover, it was nasty before i ATF'd it.. and it was about spotless after the treatment..
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Won't ATF damage your seals? I hear stories of it causing seals to leak.
-Todd
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Won't ATF damage your seals? I hear stories of it causing seals to leak.
-Todd
if anything, it should SOFTEN your seals.. its not like i was running PURE ATF anyways..
ATF doesnt damage trans seals, and they BATHE in the stuff..
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ATF doesnt damage trans seals, and they BATHE in the stuff..
Good point.
-Todd
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ATF doesnt damage trans seals, and they BATHE in the stuff..
Good point.
-Todd
im sure if you ran way too much ATF, it might soften your seals enough to make them tear..
i would worry more about diesel, or bio-diesel softening the seals of the engine, rather than ATF..
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Atf is one heck aof an amazing engine cleaner.. Works wonders with sticky noisy lifters!! If you run atf through and a seal starts leaking, it was probably shot anyhow.. Especially on an older engine as it was the crud that was keeping the oil in..
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ok, so that kinda goes along with my experiences.. cause it did have a ticking lifter before i ATF'd it.. now the lifters only tick until the oil light goes out.. maybe 3-5 ticks then silent.
because the oil in my gasser wasnt very dirty when i dumped the ATF in, then about 500 miles later, it was basically BLACK.
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hmm interesting. I will try the ATF. I never really worried about diesel in the oil. Actually I asked the lab where we send oil to and they say by the time you change your oil, its 8 percent diesel anyway. the little bit that washes adds up i guess.
the only thing i would stay away from was ATF plus 4 or the stuff made after 06. It had friction modifiers in it.
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the only thing i would stay away from was ATF plus 4 or the stuff made after 06. It had friction modifiers in it.
That a very good point!!! Type F as used in old Fords is the same way.. Mercon V and Dextron VI are synthetics, and I'd suspect they contain various friction modifiers as well.. Especially Merc V.. Cheapo Plain ole Dextron II/III is the stuff to use..
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the only thing i would stay away from was ATF plus 4 or the stuff made after 06. It had friction modifiers in it.
That a very good point!!! Type F as used in old Fords is the same way.. Mercon V and Dextron VI are synthetics, and I'd suspect they contain various friction modifiers as well.. Especially Merc V.. Cheapo Plain ole Dextron II/III is the stuff to use..
yea, i use the cheapest ATF i can get my hands on, because its just going to be a cleaner, so its not like i need it to last 30k miles like it should..
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okay, so whats your best procedure with the ATF?
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Personally, I usually change oil and replace one quart with atf and run a short oil change interval...
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Personally, I usually change oil and replace one quart with atf and run a short oil change interval...
i run it for about a week, right before i change my oil, then change as normal.