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Engine Specific Info and Questions => IDI Engine => Topic started by: carrizog60 on March 10, 2011, 12:07:37 pm
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hello
how do you remove the side pin that limits the trow of the lda pin?
i was thinking to dremel the sh*it out of her but i am affraid of debris coming inside the pump...
other thing:
this pump is for selling,any way to put it in a way that it could start and then the guy adjust at his taste?
i kinda miss the aligment marks on the T. shaft... :(
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on my pump, i pushed the pin in towards the governor shaft, drilled the indentations holding the pin from coming out, then i pushed the pin back out past where it was originally sitting.. the pin is sticking out the side of my pump, but i could care less.. i could have tooken the dremel and sliced off the protruding pin..
or you could push the pin out, and drill and tap the hole with a pipe plug or something..
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My pump was gutted so I just ground it off with a cutting wheel.
I had the top off the other day and it looked like removing the stop allowed the lever to travel an extra 1/8" MAX, probably less, the lever hits the shaft with the flyweights on it and that's the end. Screwing the shaft out would allow considerably more fueling.........
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can someone throw up a pic of this actually before and after for us that have never done it?
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I just rebushed and sealed a TD pump from an '85 Jetta TD.
It still had the pin.
The lever coming from the top didn't come down on front (opposite of cold start side) of the pump.
It didn't replace the pin.
The lever rode against an area near where the governor spring attached.
I didn't compare it to an NA pump to see if that part was there for it to ride against but it could be.
Point is, there might be some LDAs that will work on an NA pump.
There certainly are tops that don't require removing the pin, because it will do you no good.
The pump is closed up and on the car now; so no pics.
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the lda pin will work as it is,but removing the side pin on the case will alow for more movement of the lda pin.
that way i can even ground more the lda knowing that the pin will stick out more.
thats another question about the weights shaft limiting the throw of that lever.
messing with that shaft will mess with what?
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I just rebushed and sealed a TD pump from an '85 Jetta TD.
It still had the pin.
The lever coming from the top didn't come down on front (opposite of cold start side) of the pump.
It didn't replace the pin.
The lever rode against an area near where the governor spring attached.
I didn't compare it to an NA pump to see if that part was there for it to ride against but it could be.
Point is, there might be some LDAs that will work on an NA pump.
There certainly are tops that don't require removing the pin, because it will do you no good.
The pump is closed up and on the car now; so no pics.
all the TD pumps ive seen didnt have a pin in them..
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on my pump, i pushed the pin in towards the governor shaft, drilled the indentations holding the pin from coming out, then i pushed the pin back out past where it was originally sitting.. the pin is sticking out the side of my pump, but i could care less.. i could have tooken the dremel and sliced off the protruding pin..
or you could push the pin out, and drill and tap the hole with a pipe plug or something..
With the peens removed, you run the risk of fuel pressure pushing the pin out. It might not happen, but would stink if it did. If I were going to take that approach, I'd peen the pin itself (use wire nippers or similar to squish a groove) near the inner end and then squish it out to the peened area.
thats a really good idea Andrew..
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I ground the peens off and tried pushing the pin out but it was too tight so just cut it off.
Thinking about the gov shaft, adjusting it out might not change anything since the sleeve probably slides all the way towards the weights and hits a stop at that end rather than the end of the shaft bottoming in the sleeve.
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some of us have never had an injection pump apart.... :'(
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There are lots of pics on here of injection pump insides.
I took the top off because it wasn't pulling fuel right.
I did take a pic but won't be able to post it tonight.
It looks like the LDA could be set right on top of an NA pump.
External difference on this pump was accelerator lever springs that were old school.
Just like the old Rabbits.
The springs had straight ends,.. no hooks.
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I ground the peens off and tried pushing the pin out but it was too tight so just cut it off.
Thinking about the gov shaft, adjusting it out might not change anything since the sleeve probably slides all the way towards the weights and hits a stop at that end rather than the end of the shaft bottoming in the sleeve.
have you tryed to see that?
if it makes no difference why does it has some adjustment at the pulley side?
i have now a spare TD pump (damaged,i used the lda top) to mess around and want to check all the possible as i can understand :)
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Here's a pic of this TD pump insides:
(http://img854.imageshack.us/img854/427/tdinjectionpumpnopost.jpg) (http://img854.imageshack.us/i/tdinjectionpumpnopost.jpg/)
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Here's a pic of this TD pump insides:
(http://img854.imageshack.us/img854/427/tdinjectionpumpnopost.jpg) (http://img854.imageshack.us/i/tdinjectionpumpnopost.jpg/)
cool, so whats this pin I need to modify on my AAZ?
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See the pin sticking out of the side of the pump? by the cylinder thingy?
There is a spot right next to it where another pin would be machined into a NA pump.
It's used as a stop for a lever.
With this lid you might be able to leave the pin in place,..
damn, I should have tried setting this lid on an NA pump body while I had it off.
The TD pump top "LDA" has an arm that reaches down and replaces this pin/stud,.. a moveable stop.
You can see it in the pic.
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unless you need to pour copious amounts of coals out your tail pipe, it really doesnt need to be modified..
most users find thier pump throws down quite fine for every day activities..
ive had 2 different pumps, one had the pin, one did not, both had the same LDA on them.
and i found that i got more power/smoke out of the one that STILL HAD THE PIN..
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thanks for the input on that.
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many things can affect that...
and it doesent makes difference if you dont grind the lda pin
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unless you need to pour copious amounts of coals out your tail pipe, it really doesnt need to be modified..
Oh yes it does, I get some AAZ pumps in that the stop is so severe that you can grind the LDA all you like because it doesn't even come into play until you get rid of the stop.
I took some pictures of the last one I did, it was a 1.6 TD - they aren't affected too much by the fitment of the pin.
Here it is in Crezz' 1.6 pump, I've removed the governor as that's normally the only way to gain access to shift it.
(http://i492.photobucket.com/albums/rr281/regcheeseman/PUMP/Throttlelimitpin001sml.jpg)
You can see the pin sticking into the pump.
Removing the governor can be tricky, I mark the bolt and lock nut with a centre punch and count the turns to remove it (normally 16) - dont pull it out completely, just enough to lift the gov out , catch hold of the gov weights as they WILL fall into the pump.
It's pushed into place and the hole peened over to stop it coming back out so you have to remove some material, I do this with a dremel before opening pump
(http://i492.photobucket.com/albums/rr281/regcheeseman/PUMP/Throttlelimitpin002sml.jpg)
The pin is a tight fit and needs tapping out with a punch, I just leave it in place and dob on some JB to stop any leaks
(http://i492.photobucket.com/albums/rr281/regcheeseman/PUMP/Throttlelimitpin005sml.jpg)
You could trim it off, for my pump I removed it and I fitted a bolt in with sealant.
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unless you need to pour copious amounts of coals out your tail pipe, it really doesnt need to be modified..
Oh yes it does, I get some AAZ pumps in that the stop is so severe that you can grind the LDA all you like because it doesn't even come into play until you get rid of the stop.
I took some pictures of the last one I did, it was a 1.6 TD - they aren't affected too much by the fitment of the pin.
Here it is in Crezz' 1.6 pump, I've removed the governor as that's normally the only way to gain access to shift it.
(http://i492.photobucket.com/albums/rr281/regcheeseman/PUMP/Throttlelimitpin001sml.jpg)
You can see the pin sticking into the pump.
Removing the governor can be tricky, I mark the bolt and lock nut with a centre punch and count the turns to remove it (normally 16) - dont pull it out completely, just enough to lift the gov out , catch hold of the gov weights as they WILL fall into the pump.
It's pushed into place and the hole peened over to stop it coming back out so you have to remove some material, I do this with a dremel before opening pump
(http://i492.photobucket.com/albums/rr281/regcheeseman/PUMP/Throttlelimitpin002sml.jpg)
The pin is a tight fit and needs tapping out with a punch, I just leave it in place and dob on some JB to stop any leaks
(http://i492.photobucket.com/albums/rr281/regcheeseman/PUMP/Throttlelimitpin005sml.jpg)
You could trim it off, for my pump I removed it and I fitted a bolt in with sealant.
this is EXACTLY how i modified my pumps.. glad im not the only one crazy enough to do it..
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unless you need to pour copious amounts of coals out your tail pipe, it really doesnt need to be modified..
most users find thier pump throws down quite fine for every day activities..
ive had 2 different pumps, one had the pin, one did not, both had the same LDA on them.
and i found that i got more power/smoke out of the one that STILL HAD THE PIN..
You had a pump that was originally TD and it had the long pin just pictured,
that gets in the way of the LDA arm?
Both of these LDAs had the arm on the front? or the cold start lever side?
The one in my pic has the arm on the cold start half of the pump.
I've seen it on the other side,.. but it had no pin either, it would just get in the way.
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unless you need to pour copious amounts of coals out your tail pipe, it really doesnt need to be modified..
most users find thier pump throws down quite fine for every day activities..
ive had 2 different pumps, one had the pin, one did not, both had the same LDA on them.
and i found that i got more power/smoke out of the one that STILL HAD THE PIN..
You had a pump that was originally TD and it had the long pin just pictured,
that gets in the way of the LDA arm?
Both of these LDAs had the arm on the front? or the cold start lever side?
The one in my pic has the arm on the cold start half of the pump.
I've seen it on the other side,.. but it had no pin either, it would just get in the way.
i worded that wrong..
my true TD pump, had no pin in it, and an LDA on top..
the other pump i was talking about tho, started out life as a n/a pump, thats why it had the pin in the side. (that i removed)
the reason they had the same LDA on top, is because i took it off one pump, and put it on the other..
pretty sure the arm on my LDA is on the pin side, not the cold start side. actually im about positive it is. cause it was opposite the fuel screw..
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I am admittedly really confused.
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You had a pump that was originally TD and it had the long pin just pictured,
that gets in the way of the LDA arm?
No - it stops the throttle plate before it even reaches the LDA arm - that's how any grind on the LDA is pointless
Both of these LDAs had the arm on the front? or the cold start lever side?
The one in my pic has the arm on the cold start half of the pump.
I've seen it on the other side,.. but it had no pin either, it would just get in the way.
LDA arm on the back of the pump, cold start lever side.
The pin is obvious when fitted, the casting is there on all pumps, some are drilled and fitted with a pin.
Later 1.6 TDs have a pin, never seen a GTD pump with a pin, later semi-electric AAZ pumps have a pin.
(http://i492.photobucket.com/albums/rr281/regcheeseman/PUMP/pump007.jpg)
(http://i492.photobucket.com/albums/rr281/regcheeseman/PUMP/pump008.jpg)
pretty sure the arm on my LDA is on the pin side, not the cold start side. actually im about positive it is. cause it was opposite the fuel screw..
I've never seen one like that but then UK pumps are massively different to yours.
The picture I posted originally was a genuine 1.6 TD eco pump, the pictures in this post are GTD
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are we talking about the fast idle lever? my pump has none.. and i guess the pump top looks about like the one that was posted up, just without the fast idle..
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Later 1.6 TDs have a pin, never seen a GTD pump with a pin, later semi-electric AAZ pumps have a pin.
Sooo later 1.6TDs have the pin,.. so the LDA arm must be one the other side.
The more i look at it the more it seems this LDA/lid would probably swap right on to an NA pump, without having to deal with the pin.
I messed with one of those pumps recently.
I always thought it would be good to have a TD pump with the cold start lever that bumps the RPMs too,..
but it's a little more complicated, really more complicated than it's worth.
I got it back together and it works :)
I am admittedly really confused.
Kris, the reason for all this is to put an LDA (turbo lid) on an NA pump.
It won't give you any more fuel,.. a 9mm pump will push what a 9mm pump can.
What it does is keep the fuel down when off boost,.. so you don't smoke so much off boost.
I'm not familiar with the 1.9 stuff and am not sure what your injection pump looks like,.. does it already have an LDA?
Seems like it's the pin in the LDA that needs changed on the 1.9 pump.
Not the limiting pin in the pump.