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how to remove limit pin going D to TD pump?
by
carrizog60
on 10 Mar, 2011 12:07
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hello
how do you remove the side pin that limits the trow of the lda pin?
i was thinking to dremel the sh*it out of her but i am affraid of debris coming inside the pump...
other thing:
this pump is for selling,any way to put it in a way that it could start and then the guy adjust at his taste?
i kinda miss the aligment marks on the T. shaft...
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#1
by
R.O.R-2.0
on 10 Mar, 2011 13:16
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on my pump, i pushed the pin in towards the governor shaft, drilled the indentations holding the pin from coming out, then i pushed the pin back out past where it was originally sitting.. the pin is sticking out the side of my pump, but i could care less.. i could have tooken the dremel and sliced off the protruding pin..
or you could push the pin out, and drill and tap the hole with a pipe plug or something..
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#2
by
rabbitman
on 10 Mar, 2011 19:12
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My pump was gutted so I just ground it off with a cutting wheel.
I had the top off the other day and it looked like removing the stop allowed the lever to travel an extra 1/8" MAX, probably less, the lever hits the shaft with the flyweights on it and that's the end. Screwing the shaft out would allow considerably more fueling.........
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#3
by
Digital K
on 10 Mar, 2011 19:36
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can someone throw up a pic of this actually before and after for us that have never done it?
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#4
by
fatmobile
on 10 Mar, 2011 22:28
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I just rebushed and sealed a TD pump from an '85 Jetta TD.
It still had the pin.
The lever coming from the top didn't come down on front (opposite of cold start side) of the pump.
It didn't replace the pin.
The lever rode against an area near where the governor spring attached.
I didn't compare it to an NA pump to see if that part was there for it to ride against but it could be.
Point is, there might be some LDAs that will work on an NA pump.
There certainly are tops that don't require removing the pin, because it will do you no good.
The pump is closed up and on the car now; so no pics.
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#5
by
carrizog60
on 11 Mar, 2011 05:00
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the lda pin will work as it is,but removing the side pin on the case will alow for more movement of the lda pin.
that way i can even ground more the lda knowing that the pin will stick out more.
thats another question about the weights shaft limiting the throw of that lever.
messing with that shaft will mess with what?
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#6
by
R.O.R-2.0
on 11 Mar, 2011 08:27
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I just rebushed and sealed a TD pump from an '85 Jetta TD.
It still had the pin.
The lever coming from the top didn't come down on front (opposite of cold start side) of the pump.
It didn't replace the pin.
The lever rode against an area near where the governor spring attached.
I didn't compare it to an NA pump to see if that part was there for it to ride against but it could be.
Point is, there might be some LDAs that will work on an NA pump.
There certainly are tops that don't require removing the pin, because it will do you no good.
The pump is closed up and on the car now; so no pics.
all the TD pumps ive seen didnt have a pin in them..
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#7
by
R.O.R-2.0
on 11 Mar, 2011 09:34
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on my pump, i pushed the pin in towards the governor shaft, drilled the indentations holding the pin from coming out, then i pushed the pin back out past where it was originally sitting.. the pin is sticking out the side of my pump, but i could care less.. i could have tooken the dremel and sliced off the protruding pin..
or you could push the pin out, and drill and tap the hole with a pipe plug or something..
With the peens removed, you run the risk of fuel pressure pushing the pin out. It might not happen, but would stink if it did. If I were going to take that approach, I'd peen the pin itself (use wire nippers or similar to squish a groove) near the inner end and then squish it out to the peened area.
thats a really good idea Andrew..
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#8
by
rabbitman
on 11 Mar, 2011 18:57
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I ground the peens off and tried pushing the pin out but it was too tight so just cut it off.
Thinking about the gov shaft, adjusting it out might not change anything since the sleeve probably slides all the way towards the weights and hits a stop at that end rather than the end of the shaft bottoming in the sleeve.
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#9
by
Digital K
on 11 Mar, 2011 23:38
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some of us have never had an injection pump apart....
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#10
by
fatmobile
on 12 Mar, 2011 00:27
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There are lots of pics on here of injection pump insides.
I took the top off because it wasn't pulling fuel right.
I did take a pic but won't be able to post it tonight.
It looks like the LDA could be set right on top of an NA pump.
External difference on this pump was accelerator lever springs that were old school.
Just like the old Rabbits.
The springs had straight ends,.. no hooks.
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#11
by
carrizog60
on 12 Mar, 2011 04:45
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I ground the peens off and tried pushing the pin out but it was too tight so just cut it off.
Thinking about the gov shaft, adjusting it out might not change anything since the sleeve probably slides all the way towards the weights and hits a stop at that end rather than the end of the shaft bottoming in the sleeve.
have you tryed to see that?
if it makes no difference why does it has some adjustment at the pulley side?
i have now a spare TD pump (damaged,i used the lda top) to mess around and want to check all the possible as i can understand
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#12
by
fatmobile
on 12 Mar, 2011 20:33
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Here's a pic of this TD pump insides:
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#13
by
Digital K
on 12 Mar, 2011 21:29
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Here's a pic of this TD pump insides:
cool, so whats this pin I need to modify on my AAZ?
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#14
by
fatmobile
on 13 Mar, 2011 00:44
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See the pin sticking out of the side of the pump? by the cylinder thingy?
There is a spot right next to it where another pin would be machined into a NA pump.
It's used as a stop for a lever.
With this lid you might be able to leave the pin in place,..
damn, I should have tried setting this lid on an NA pump body while I had it off.
The TD pump top "LDA" has an arm that reaches down and replaces this pin/stud,.. a moveable stop.
You can see it in the pic.
