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Engine Specific Info and Questions => IDI Engine => Topic started by: coke on January 16, 2011, 12:30:29 am
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Any tips/tricks on priming the older A2 filters that aren't heated? The bolt in the top looks far too small to pour clean fuel into, but there isn't any other orifice to fill it from that I can see.
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fill then install
vacuum the out line
get a tiny funnel from the kitchen store
or loosen and pressurize the tank vent.
I've dribbled ATF in the bolt hole in a pinch before though.
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Think an Outboard primer bulb on the out line would draw enough vacuum to suck through the in line and fill it?
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Yes, but I removed mine as it seemed to be a source for air. I have installed them with no diesel and the IP pulled it through. Ran rough for a bit, but all was well. I just fill mine pretty good now and install.
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Take out the bleed bolt and drop the whole filter into a can of diesel. Wiggle it around to get all the air out. Works great, but is of course messy. Last time I changed a filter I just put it on empty and let the IP suck it full of fuel. Didn't really take long and worked fine. I assume this is the factory procedure, as the Bentley manual says nothing about pre-filling the filter.
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Loosen the bleeder and blow through the return line and pressurize the tank. That should push fuel to the filter and then you can close the bleeder.
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Loosen the bleeder and blow through the return line and pressurize the tank. That should push fuel to the filter and then you can close the bleeder.
I LIKE THIS METHOD!!!
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Blowing through won't work, as if I'm not mistaken diesel tanks are vented to atmosphere.. Through a tube that goes up to the filler neck.
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Blowing through won't work, as if I'm not mistaken diesel tanks are vented to atmosphere.. Through a tube that goes up to the filler neck.
I've done it on my rabbit, it has a small vent line that runs from the tank up to the........uh, hefty beam thing that the bumper bolts to, forgot what it's called.
Anyways I could blow harder than that could vent so the tank pressurized. Early MK2 fuel filters are the same deal only not the spin on type.
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interesting, I figured it would take a little more than whatever our lungs can push to push fuel from the tank ;)
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I got a marine primer bulb at NAPA. It has 5/16" ends and works great. no mess.
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I got a marine primer bulb at NAPA. It has 5/16" ends and works great. no mess.
i hate those primer bulbs. ive had soo many of those in the last 5 years cause me problems.. the valves stick closed in them all the time..
just personal preference tho..
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I have a diesel marine grade primer ball too. Right before the filter on the strut tower. Nice easy location, 4 good pumps fills the filter and pump
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The primer bulbs that I've gotten have failed when the valves stay open. Maybe we could trade? My SVO system has a fair amount of resistance so I installed an electric fuel pump between the filter and IP. When I change a filter, I let it rattle away until primed then off I go.
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I would run an electric helper pump in a heart-beat if they were cheap around here...
They are common on most small outboards.. unusual for them to fail :s
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I got mine from NAPA. I think it was around $35. It was for a non-FI gas engine car. Nothing special as we don't need huge GPM's of fuel. It is a solenoid electronic type. The high volume Holley or Carter vane types can get quite expensive. I tapped into the IP shutoff solenoid wire with no problems. Seems to be able to take the heat too. 150* veg oil for those using that.
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I got mine from NAPA. I think it was around $35. It was for a non-FI gas engine car. Nothing special as we don't need huge GPM's of fuel. It is a solenoid electronic type. The high volume Holley or Carter vane types can get quite expensive. I tapped into the IP shutoff solenoid wire with no problems. Seems to be able to take the heat too. 150* veg oil for those using that.
I think I got the Mr. Gasket diesel rated one I have in the Rabbit was only around $45 3 years ago. I mounted it in the back right after the tank and when I turned it on I figured it would run till it built up pressure and then shut off and just tick now and then but they just slow down some on the diesels, I forgot about the return line with the little restrictor in the fitting on the pump which just lets he fuel circulate after everything is full. I ran it on a toggle switch running constant for 3 months and it never hurt it but now I just run it for a few seconds before I start and it makes all the difference in the world. Big help for you guys up where it's real cold and have to crank a while to crank to get started if the pump leaks down a little.