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Engine Specific Info and Questions => IDI Engine => Topic started by: ShoulderMan on January 07, 2011, 09:51:41 am
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Hello all. I have finally got around to installing a KKK14 onto my car. I have a few questions and concerns about it as well as some findings.
Over all, with only the altitude compensating IP, it feels as if I now have a larger engine. I didnt get the kick in the pants that I thought I would have gotten, but at least now I can actually pass a simi truck on the freeway, instead of thinking I could pass him, but end up getting back behind him because she just wouldn't move.
I had two half way complete stock setups, one for a t3 and the other for a k14. The t3 was for a mk2 and the k14 for a mk3. so I had to switch a few parts around and make my own oil drain hose from the two. the t3 drain hose only had the correct drain pan threads and the k14 only had the correct turbo spout threads. So, I had to chop both of them up, I cut the threaded metric end off the bottom of the k14 tube, grounded down the little bulge and welded it into a standard JIC male fitting. this way if i ever need a new hose, I can just run down to the local hydraulic hose shop and they can make me a new hose. The drain pan end was more of a pain in the but than that upper part. I ended up just using a radiator clamp to hold it in the hose. Since theres no pressure or only very little, it would have to do for now. Its near impossable to get metric hydraulic fittings here in the US. The other issue is that the drain on the pan for the turbo is right next to the rear engine mount. So, I had to grind that a little for the hose and fitting to fit. If I ever have to take the Drain pan off again, I will remove the location of the drain spout to a more convenient location and change the threads to JIC as well.
After installing the turbo it was time to go get my car emission tested. I have a 3" exhaust from the turbo to the back wheel, 2 1/2 under the back tire, and 3" back out to the rear bumper.
I failed. and as I think I already knew the problem,(some oil blow by) I went home and drained about 1/2 -1 qt of oil. so the oil line is only 1/2 way up the cross hatch to full. The lady also told me to change out my new air filter. so I figured, what the hell. So I went out and bought the largest cloth cone filter they had. and removed the stock air box. I passed the emissions the second time around, from 33.6 to 1.8 where they want to see no more than 20 nox or something. anyway, by ditching the stock air box, the car went from "Eh, I guess its faster to, WOW, where the hell did that power come from.
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I dont know why, but after you type too far down, the box gets a little jumpy. so I am continuing. Sorry its so long.
Does anyone know why vw would put such a small air box on their turboed cars, if a larger one would make the difference between day and night?
I also decided to block off the stock bypass valve for the intake to vent excess pressure. it didn't make a huge difference, but the car is a lot more funner to drive now.
I do not have a td block so I dont have the oil squirter's, but I did install the higher capacity oil pump and put in a set of guages, because after 2-3krpm my oil light flashes and the buzzer goes off... and doesent turn off untill you hit a good bump or cycle the key. I Also dont know what standard oil pressures should be, but in the winter mornings in Arizona, at startup im at 100psi (cold), and at operating temp (hot) im idiling at 16psi. While driveing on the freeway im at 40-60psi hot. and 60-80psi warm.
I run chevron 15/40, or rotella 15/40 and use the german oil additives. (kinda like slick 50) no water to oil cooler or oil cooler. I also have the guage at the oil filter location,(along with the oem oil pressure sender)
The other question i have is that I have little to no heat comming from my heater. Ive read and serched where I could. Both heater hoses are hot, comming in and out. i have the 180-190deg thermostat, and have cardboard covering the radiator. with out the cardboard, the car will never get past 180, I can get it to 200' with it, but the fan kicks on by then..by 185-190 actually. I still cant get anything but luke warm air which cools down soon after you turn on the heater fan.
Ive flushed the car twice, once with just the liqued flush and once with some powder flush, ran it 60 miles, with the heater, flushed, ran with water for a few days, flushed, flushed again, then filled with antifreeze and watter wetter. Ive checked to make sure the vents and cables are working corrrectally and everything is.. also.,.. in the day time, 12-4pm, it blows hot air like no tomarrow, and in the summer time it blows hotter than the turbo... but it will still blow cooler air if i turn the vent from hot to cold. Any one have any ideas?
Thanks,
-Ron
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Both heater hoses are hot, comming in and out.
If you've got good coolant circulation thru the core then the top two suspects are the blend door and the core itself... at about 99.9% probability that the foam has come off the blend door. ;-)
Search here and, even better, on the MK2 Vortex forum for "blend door" and you'll find tons of discussion, pictures, various ways people have repaired this common problem, etc.
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You need to add an EGT gauge asap. It's just too easy to get into the danger zone with a NA-TD.
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You need to add an EGT gauge asap. It's just too easy to get into the danger zone with a NA-TD.
yes it is, ASK ME HOW I FRIGGEN KNOW!!!!!!!!
get an EGT gauge if you have a n/a block with no piston coolers!!!
most important mod you can do to your diesel..
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Thank you very much for the information about the Heater (blend door) information. I never would have found what I was looking for if it wasent for that. that might be a nice sticky for when someone else goes looking for "no heat from the heater", and they should be looking for the "Blend Door" thread.
I am working on an extra exhaust, doing a mild port and polish, then I will get it plained for a flat finish. I will add the egt to that one.
untill then, im running the stock boost setting on the turbo, but have not increased the fuel. Im running 3" exhaust, and a large cone filter. also temps dont go much above 70 for the next 2 months. I dont rev it above 3K, and use it for the fuel mileage. I could hit 55mpg before the turbo, so I am hoping for more with it, while driving the same (kinda like grandma) I just wanted the turbo for the xtra mileage and to go over the hill, or pass a slower than me truck.
If this is still too risky, (untill I get a pyro guage) should I re connect the blow by valve from the intake? I think that will limit my boost to about 10psi (or what ever the spring rate has fallen to) vs 15psi from the turbo its self.
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Thank you very much for the information about the Heater (blend door) information. I never would have found what I was looking for if it wasent for that. that might be a nice sticky for when someone else goes looking for "no heat from the heater", and they should be looking for the "Blend Door" thread.
I am working on an extra exhaust, doing a mild port and polish, then I will get it plained for a flat finish. I will add the egt to that one.
untill then, im running the stock boost setting on the turbo, but have not increased the fuel. Im running 3" exhaust, and a large cone filter. also temps dont go much above 70 for the next 2 months. I dont rev it above 3K, and use it for the fuel mileage. I could hit 55mpg before the turbo, so I am hoping for more with it, while driving the same (kinda like grandma) I just wanted the turbo for the xtra mileage and to go over the hill, or pass a slower than me truck.
If this is still too risky, (untill I get a pyro guage) should I re connect the blow by valve from the intake? I think that will limit my boost to about 10psi (or what ever the spring rate has fallen to) vs 15psi from the turbo its self.
first off, a turbo does NOT add mileage.. its back pressure. you dont gain mileage from it, you can just burn the diesel more efficiently. (more power from the same amount of fuel) 55 mpg is spectacular. you will never see it ever again now tho, not with boost.
i tried convincing myself that they got better mileage turbo charged, but they get about 5 mpg more with no turbo.
if you dont rev it above 3 grand, you barely see any boost..
and what are you talking about with this "blow by valve"? the little round thing on top of the valve cover that routes the PCV gasses into the turbo intake?
or are you talking about blocking off the over boost protector valve on the intake manifold?
most of us delete that stupid over boost protector, because 15 psi is all you will ever make with one of those in place.
or are you talking about the waste gate?
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Well thats unfortunate, I figured Id pick up another 5mpg because of the more complete burn, and because I have not turned up the fuel, I would not burn any extra, but beable to use less fuel by burning all the fuel in the cylinder, allowing for more btu output per the same injection, which would give more power per stroke, and waste less unburnt fuel than a non turboed car. (I understand that if the NA smoked, and you added the turbo, the turbo would clean up the smoke, giving you a minor boost in hp. but if you dont increase the fuel output, how can you burn more fuel? unless you used to drive at 65, and now you drive at 85, I dont see where you would burn more fuel. ...(I also do not have a tubo injection pump installed.)
Now, I may be wrong, but why do they make black boxes that give the big diesels(dodge ford chevy) better fuel milage and more power?
As far as boost, I can here it, and feel it well before 3K. It starts spooling at 1200rpm, and I notice a large pick up in accelateration from 2-3 upshift at around 2200-3200rpm. I figure I get full boost by 3200rpm, (As I here the air just blowing from the turbo pop off valve, or blow off valve)
I have a k14, I dont think it makes too much boost past 3K, I think thats the t3 that doesent start to spool untill 2500-3000rpm.
The other pop off valve or blow by valve or over boost protector that im talking about is the one on the intake manifold. it routes back into the intake tube.
the PCV hose I had just went to Atmosphere. There wasent a second port on the intake tube that I could plug it into. as of right now, I have the over boost protection plugged off and the pcv is now going to where the over boost air used to go.
I still need a boost guage to get an accurate boost reading, but I dont think its much more than 15psi. and i beleave anything more than 20psi becomes inefficient for the k14. just blowing hotter air.
as of now, I have logged 600 miles on the setup, and so far everything is running great. my first tank of fuel only lasted me 500 miles, but I also took it through emmissions, and tweeked the system here and there, and ran it hard a few times with some short bursts up to a max of 4K rpm to see what she would do, and mostly drove it 75-85mph on the freeway (I have to drive 55mph to get 55mpg) So i am hopeing to get 55mpg @65mph. Ill find out in about 2 weeks from now, what kind of milage ill get with the turbo. and will post. but it will take a few tanks to get a more accurate account of weather or not im saving or spending.
In the end, I hope im right and your wrong, as Im using the car for the mpg. The M3 is for going fast.
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first off, a turbo does NOT add mileage.. its back pressure. you dont gain mileage from it, you can just burn the diesel more efficiently. (more power from the same amount of fuel) 55 mpg is spectacular. you will never see it ever again now tho, not with boost.
i tried convincing myself that they got better mileage turbo charged, but they get about 5 mpg more with no turbo.
if you dont rev it above 3 grand, you barely see any boost..
k3vo, I don't think it is accurate to say you will most certainly not see the same if not better mileage by adding a turbo. I think generally the reason why people do not usually see gains on turbo cars is because they have them tuned for power, and not so much mileage. OP you have obviously noticed the power increase.. that is what is gonna rob your fuel mileage, your own right foot. Burning the fuel more efficiently means you get more power out of each molecule right? So you can do what you could before with less pedal, therefore less fuel needed, therefore less fuel used, therefore higher mileage per gallon ;)
Well thats unfortunate, I figured Id pick up another 5mpg because of the more complete burn, and because I have not turned up the fuel, I would not burn any extra, but beable to use less fuel by burning all the fuel in the cylinder, allowing for more btu output per the same injection, which would give more power per stroke, and waste less unburnt fuel than a non turboed car. (I understand that if the NA smoked, and you added the turbo, the turbo would clean up the smoke, giving you a minor boost in hp. but if you dont increase the fuel output, how can you burn more fuel? unless you used to drive at 65, and now you drive at 85, I dont see where you would burn more fuel. ...(I also do not have a tubo injection pump installed.)
Correcto.
Now, I may be wrong, but why do they make black boxes that give the big diesels(dodge ford chevy) better fuel milage and more power?
As far as boost, I can here it, and feel it well before 3K. It starts spooling at 1200rpm, and I notice a large pick up in accelateration from 2-3 upshift at around 2200-3200rpm. I figure I get full boost by 3200rpm, (As I here the air just blowing from the turbo pop off valve, or blow off valve)
I have a k14, I dont think it makes too much boost past 3K, I think thats the t3 that doesent start to spool untill 2500-3000rpm.
I still need a boost guage to get an accurate boost reading, but I dont think its much more than 15psi. and i beleave anything more than 20psi becomes inefficient for the k14. just blowing hotter air.
Yes, the k14's spool low and are best kept in there efficiency range to a max of 15-18psi. Anymore and you are being counterproductive on such a small turbo, and are compressing now HOT air.
as of now, I have logged 600 miles on the setup, and so far everything is running great. my first tank of fuel only lasted me 500 miles, but I also took it through emmissions, and tweeked the system here and there, and ran it hard a few times with some short bursts up to a max of 4K rpm to see what she would do, and mostly drove it 75-85mph on the freeway (I have to drive 55mph to get 55mpg) So i am hopeing to get 55mpg @65mph. Ill find out in about 2 weeks from now, what kind of milage ill get with the turbo. and will post. but it will take a few tanks to get a more accurate account of weather or not im saving or spending.
In the end, I hope im right and your wrong, as Im using the car for the mpg. The M3 is for going fast.
If you maintain your driving techniques for mileage alone, I personally think you will see an increase in mileage. Everything theory you have said in your post IMHO has been spot on ;)
Congrats on the successful swap bro.
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Well thats unfortunate, I figured Id pick up another 5mpg because of the more complete burn, and because I have not turned up the fuel, I would not burn any extra, but beable to use less fuel by burning all the fuel in the cylinder, allowing for more btu output per the same injection, which would give more power per stroke, and waste less unburnt fuel than a non turboed car. (I understand that if the NA smoked, and you added the turbo, the turbo would clean up the smoke, giving you a minor boost in hp. but if you dont increase the fuel output, how can you burn more fuel? unless you used to drive at 65, and now you drive at 85, I dont see where you would burn more fuel. ...(I also do not have a tubo injection pump installed.)
Now, I may be wrong, but why do they make black boxes that give the big diesels(dodge ford chevy) better fuel milage and more power?
As far as boost, I can here it, and feel it well before 3K. It starts spooling at 1200rpm, and I notice a large pick up in accelateration from 2-3 upshift at around 2200-3200rpm. I figure I get full boost by 3200rpm, (As I here the air just blowing from the turbo pop off valve, or blow off valve)
I have a k14, I dont think it makes too much boost past 3K, I think thats the t3 that doesent start to spool untill 2500-3000rpm.
The other pop off valve or blow by valve or over boost protector that im talking about is the one on the intake manifold. it routes back into the intake tube.
the PCV hose I had just went to Atmosphere. There wasent a second port on the intake tube that I could plug it into. as of right now, I have the over boost protection plugged off and the pcv is now going to where the over boost air used to go.
I still need a boost guage to get an accurate boost reading, but I dont think its much more than 15psi. and i beleave anything more than 20psi becomes inefficient for the k14. just blowing hotter air.
as of now, I have logged 600 miles on the setup, and so far everything is running great. my first tank of fuel only lasted me 500 miles, but I also took it through emmissions, and tweeked the system here and there, and ran it hard a few times with some short bursts up to a max of 4K rpm to see what she would do, and mostly drove it 75-85mph on the freeway (I have to drive 55mph to get 55mpg) So i am hopeing to get 55mpg @65mph. Ill find out in about 2 weeks from now, what kind of milage ill get with the turbo. and will post. but it will take a few tanks to get a more accurate account of weather or not im saving or spending.
In the end, I hope im right and your wrong, as Im using the car for the mpg. The M3 is for going fast.
about the black box: the fords chevys and dodges, along with VW TDI engines, are all electronically controlled. the injection cycles, pump timing, everything..
so yea, a new tune does help those engines.
our VWs are IDI engines, and completely mechanical controlled..
K14 turbos make boost from like 1800 to the top of the red line. they only make about 15 or 20 psi maxed out, but still make way plenty.
if you hear the turbo making enough bost that it operates the overboost protector, then your really not gonna get good mileage like you thought.. how do you hear the air going thru a valve?
there is atleast 1 psi of drive pressure for every 1 psi boost that is built.
so when you are boosted up, your engine has back pressure, theres no way to get away from it.
its very hard to understand what you are trying to get at, because you dont really know what specific parts your actually talking about..
the overboost protector (most people call it a BOV) is located on the intake manifold. passenger side.
the wastegate is located on the turbo its self, back by the fire wall..
and sorry, but there is no way you are going to gain MPG from adding a RESTRICTION to the exhaust system..
someone will chime in. i thought i got better MPG with boost too, but its basically physically impossible, unless you do tons of pump mods..
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ask tyler, or vince, or andrew or any of the Gurus... they will tell you the same thing..
n/a engines get better economy..
ive been told this a thousand times..
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ask tyler, or vince, or andrew or any of the Gurus... they will tell you the same thing..
n/a engines get better economy..
ive been told this a thousand times..
Well, I hope I can prove this thery wrong, as i respectfully dissagree with it.
To counter my back pressure i have deleated the toliet bowl exhaust for a full 3" line, which should increase spool time, decrease backpressure and keep the system running smoother.
I have a few camera picts that i will post. and also have a question on one of them.
I have also compleated the "pimp my glo-plug" proceadure, and have to say, makes it start like a new car in the arizona winter months.
(http://i607.photobucket.com/albums/tt157/ShoulderMan78/IMG00058-20110113-1037.jpg)
(http://i607.photobucket.com/albums/tt157/ShoulderMan78/IMG00062-20110113-1039.jpg) (http://i607.photobucket.com/albums/tt157/ShoulderMan78/IMG00066-20110113-1042.jpg)
(http://i607.photobucket.com/albums/tt157/ShoulderMan78/IMG00011-20100315-0821.jpg)
(http://i607.photobucket.com/albums/tt157/ShoulderMan78/IMG00012-20100315-0821.jpg)
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The other question I has is that I'm using this altitude compensating pump, but what is the little device that hooks into the fuel line. It has a place for a wire. and its not on any of my other pumps, na or td. this pump came off a german jetta 1991 na.
(http://i607.photobucket.com/albums/tt157/ShoulderMan78/IMG00038-20100322-1152.jpg)
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what flows better?
a n/a manifold with nothing hooked up to it?
or a turbo with nothing hooked to it?
thats right, the n/a mani flows better.
look, im sorry, i couldnt wrap my head around it either, but everyone who knows there stuff, has told me that mpgs decrease with boost. period.
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and, only 2 things spool the turbo:
fuel, and air..
to get mpgs.. your boost gauge should never move. then your getting great mpg with your turbo motor..
were you boosted when you were getting 55 mpg?
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Alright, I have a pict here showing most everything.
the green circles are the pcv to the intake
The Yellow is circling the little unknown to me device.
The Red shows where I have plugged the BOV with a barb to a quick disconnect air chuck (just incase I want to air up my tires) ::)
(http://i607.photobucket.com/albums/tt157/ShoulderMan78/enginebay.jpg)
Now i agree with you that stock, k14's boost at 18psi. with the stock air box and exhaust. both are restrictions to and from the engine. When I went from a stock pipe to the 3" exhaust pipe on my N/A, I noticed a boost in performance, small, but noticeable. I cant say what that would have felt like with a turbo, but I can say that changing the stock air box to that big blue filter made a night and day difference in driving the car. it all of a sudden had boost. you could hear it and feel it.
Combined, large air filter, large exhaust, mild port and a polish on the exhaust manifold, and a polish in the intake runners, a insignificant as it may be, they all add up for something bigger. an engine that breathes in and out a lot easier. .... ie: try breathing through a straw, running 1 mile. how are you going to make that mile if you cant get enough air to your bloodstream to convert into energy. you could walk it, but you would have a hell of a time trying to run it. same with an engine. its an air pump, it sucks air in, compress it and blows it out. you just need to add three legs, air fuel and heat. the more you can stuff the more power you make.
So having a better breathing system lets you spool quicker, cool faster, and has the potential to make much more power.
I'm not stuffing in any more fuel than i was before, I have stock boost, nothing crazy, and the cooler ambient intake air if anything should help with the power and mileage. with most of my driving on the freeway, i will be using less petal to achieve the same mph.
I appreciate the terminology , and any other information that is given, as one cannot learn or grow with out it.
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from the sound of everything, I was not making much boost, I only hear it when i shift through gears, or give it the gas to accelerate
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my car (the turbo on it) screams at idle.. the only thing that made my car spool better was when i went from a 2" turbo intake, to a 3" turbo intake. that made it spool much easier..
i make about 20 psi at the top of shifts.
the thing on the pass side of the intake manifold, thats the overboost protector, or blow off valve (BOV) as most call it, even tho its not.
the thing on the front of the pump is an electronic timing advance for cold starting IIRC.. should just be left alone..
and there should be enough ports on the turbo intake for the crank case vent, and the hose from the BOV.. not like it matters in your case tho..
wine corks work wonders when you stuff one in the outlet side of the BOV. lol.. and looks much nicer than an air chuck.
if you only hear boost when you accelerate, thats how its supposed to be to a point.. but you need a boost gauge..
does your car burn the tires when boost comes on? in first and second i have to pedal my car, or else it just turns the tires to smoke when the boost comes on hard.
now, what valve can you hear the air going thru as the turbo spools?
the only one ive ever been able to audibly hear over normal engine racket is the BOV you marked with red. but it shouldnt make any noise since you have it blocked off..
and im gonna wager a bet and say that your fueling is backed WAY off... that would account for decent mileage, and low power and boost.
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I do have another turbo intake, its for a t3, and has the two ports, but looks like one is used for a computer (mk3 turbo)
I try the wine cork, next time i open a bottle, thanks.
My car couldn't burn the tires if you greased them. I can chirp em if i rev to 3K at dump the clutch, they chirp, but thats it,.. theres no smoke or adrenaline rush, both na and td, and nothing by 2nd gear. I am assuming everything is stock on this car. I bought it with not running with about 220K and it now has 298K
so, when I say it feels like it takes off, ive prob. went from 50hp to 75hp. if that.it just feels so much faster than before, like it has a larger engine. its like a power wheels, in low, and the turbo is high... its still slow as snot, but it feels faster. ;D
At idle, my car sounds stock. you cant hear the turbo spin till you give it the throttle. Maybe I hear what i hear because before i was able to fab the whole exhaust togeather, I just used that down pipe, before the expansion peice to test the car, and then to drive it to the exhaust shop. as soon as you steped on the pettle, you could her the turbo wine, she will wine up and wine down. As you increased the rpms, the boost limiter valve would open up, (I call it a valve) I could clearly hear the air slowley wooshing out untill it sounded like an air hose with out a tip. then I plugged that and now I hear the same sound, but its now coming from the turbos wastegate, and i dont hear it untill about 26-2800rpm. where as before I would hear the boost limiter open as soon as 2200rpm.
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i bet you just got a boost leak..
cause the overboost protector wont operate till about 4k rpms, or whenever the engine reaches 15 psi boost. theres no way you are opening the BOV at 2200 rpms..
are you intercooled at all? or just stock turbo setup?
the hose between the turbo and intake probably has a hole in it, and its right above the BOV, so it would sound like a leak from there..
i bet if you fix that boost leak, you will be able to burn your tires..
my engine isnt even that built up, and its still a riot to drive. gets the adrenaline going for sure..
i really dont like driving my diesel in the rain. its stupid when your driving down the road at 55, then the tires just start spinning..
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Ill have to go out side and check it for a leak, ...edit( i checked out in the driveway, but heard nothing or felt nothing leaking around the hose from the turbo to the intake. I didnt hear the wastegate blow, but reving the engine in netural doesesnt put much load on the engine.)
but even then, i have the boost protector blocked off.
Im all stock. no intercooler the little black elbow goes right to the intake from the turbo.
That would have to be a massive hole too loose so much boost,
what turbo do you have on yours? and are you at stock fuel settings, or are yours turned up?
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I wish to call b.s on some of R.o.R's information. ;)
You claim to be able to unleash your tires at 55mph in the rain on a boosted 1.5? (I assume your talking bout the VNT 1.5) No way unless your running 8 year old tires that have been worn completely flat..(No tread). When I drove my TDI donor for the month of september I had some pretty worn all seasons on there and even it would have no hope in hell at spinning the tires at 55mph.. And it has a lot more torque than even a built 1.6..
You also claim that when your boost sets I that you can roast your wheels? Dry pavement? First gear from a rolling start? Or dumping the clutch on a 4k rpm start? Lol a lotta inaccuracies here. :p
To the OP, if the car feels faster and you can get the same if not better mileage all the power to you :) I think it will be pretty close, like within a mpg or two..
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Jeremy:
ok, when it just rained over 1" in less than 24 hours, yea, you can FRY the tires off going down the road how ever fast you feel like it.. its called hydro-planing.. and i still got my burnt down VNT 1.6 in my rabbit. it got well...
i have the tires off my GTI on my rabbit.. my GTI never hydro-planed this bad.. if you are on the gas at all when you hit a puddle, it burns out and makes the speedo jump big time..
another reason why your TDI couldnt burn out that good is because of weight.. my car weighs about 1700#, your car weighs in at around 3000# i imagine.. could be wrong, but its still not light like a rabbit..
and yes Jeremy, if i shift 2nd, and 3rd just right, i can keep my tires burning on dry pavement right on by 55 mph.. i have not yet mastered the 4th gear burn out tho..
yes, let the clutch out at idle, floor it, wait for boost to pick up, then start shifting until it grabs traction.. just idling along in first or second gear, usually when it boosts hard, it burns the tires, or tries to..
Shoulderman:
you cant really check for boost leaks without having boost at the engine.. and in your driveway in neutral aint gonna make much boost..
i have a VNT17 turbo off a 2001 TDI, on a 1.6D, with a cranked up n/a fuel pump. my car gets BAD mileage if im in the boost too long, or having too much fun.
if i were you tho, i would look at getting a boost gauge to see what your real numbers are?
and pull off the boost hose and check it over hard..
it doesnt take a very big hole to make a big boost leak. usually cant even stick your pinky thru them, and they basically cripple your engine till you fix them.
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Hydroplaning and spinning tires on wet pavement are two completely different things :p. My bone stock 1.6n/a can roast tires too then if that's the criteria lol.
Also what year is your rabbit? Doesn't matter its only got a very very weak ring in the trans that allows what is known as a "one wheel peel". Very easy to bust one tire loose on wet pavement.. But roasting past 55?? I am doubtful.. But would love to be proven wrong :D. I don't think weight of the cars has much to do with a FWD take off.. Mk3 would maybe have 50lbs on a rabbit for over the axle weight on a take off?? Not much to really matter..
Kev, love ya man ;)
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Hydroplaning and spinning tires on wet pavement are two completely different things :p. My bone stock 1.6n/a can roast tires too then if that's the criteria lol.
Also what year is your rabbit? Doesn't matter its only got a very very weak ring in the trans that allows what is known as a "one wheel peel". Very easy to bust one tire loose on wet pavement.. But roasting past 55?? I am doubtful.. But would love to be proven wrong :D. I don't think weight of the cars has much to do with a FWD take off.. Mk3 would maybe have 50lbs on a rabbit for over the axle weight on a take off?? Not much to really matter..
Kev, love ya man ;)
i dont care what you say, a lighter car will have less traction taking off..
and call BS all you want. i will give you a ride in it some day..
my rabbits an 84, had a 4A trans with conical washers (VWs ghetto locker). but it has a GC tranny now. it does one tire fryers sometimes. but if your hard on the boost, it doesnt care theres a differential there, it starts burning the other one anyways..
and when i mean i can roast them off at 55.. after you quit hydroplaning, do your tires KEEP spinning once you hit pavement, or does your car jerk, and hook right back up? if i leave my pedal down, i can keep it going on pavement thats not a pond.
im not trying to start things jeremy, but you telling me things about my car is like me telling you that you DO NOT own a TDI powered VW.
if you dont believe me, then dont believe me. cause im sure were far enough apart that we will never get to drive/ride in each others cars..
and yes, if i pull out at the mini mart intersection, and grab 2nd pretty hard, then grab third when its at about 20 psi boost, yea, the tires keep going from spinning in second..
this car burns out easier than any other low hp car ive ever driven in my life. its like driving on greased tires, basically everywhere..
heres the down and dirty:
my car doesnt give a damn if its wet out or dry, it will still burn out.. its just how much effort it takes.
i can still hold 2nd gear till 55 on a dry highway.
To OP:
sorry for the huge thread jack..
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Alright, just to let you know, I have finally went through a tank of fuel, I got 600 this tank, with a combined city/hwy mileage of 42.857. With that said, compared to the n/a driving only 55mph and shifting at 1800-2200rpms with 80% freeway, and 20% city driving 45psi in the tires, and stripped down to the nitty gritty, was giving me 55mpg.
The Turbo version has been avg. 65mph with about 50/50 city/hwy, shifting as high as 3200rpm and running about 2600rpm. I have 2 leaks, a small drip at the water separator, and one at the injection pump, I can see the injection pump drip as she idles, and the w/f separator after shes been parked. I also just noticed all my tires were at 26psi, I have approx 200 extra lbs in the rear of the car and no longer have a front bumper (just the metal bar) Because of the cooler weather, I start and idle the car in the morning (3-7am hours) for about 5-20 minutes every day before i take off.
I will be taking a trip to Vegas in the car soon, which will give me a good indication of the hwy mpg ill be getting, Though, I can for see that ill get better mileage coming back than I will going up. The question is, is do I complete the round trip on one tank, or fill up in Vegas before I leave, and then compare each way.
Over all not too bad, considering my first tank was 500 miles, I gained 100 miles on this tank, If i can gain another 100 miles, (700mpt) that will get me to 50mpg.(with leaks morning warm-ups and the extra weight) Shift sooner and keep it under 65, seems like it should be do-able. fix the leaks and drop the weight, and 800 miles per tank will make me happy.
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I think the extr weight and tires down to 26psi alone is almost enough to account for that huge drop.... Low tires are the devil!
Seems like your well on your way to good mileage with this one :) I am very happy to see what kind of mileage you receive!
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Sorry for the high jack, and for the BS. But there is no such thing as any US MK4 golf or Jetta or even Passat that came with a VNT17. The stamping on the turbo might say GT17, but its a VNT15. Sorry Kevin.
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Sorry for the high jack, and for the BS. But there is no such thing as any US MK4 golf or Jetta or even Passat that came with a VNT17. The stamping on the turbo might say GT17, but its a VNT15. Sorry Kevin.
GT17VNT...
is that still a VNT15?
how come people talk about having a vnt 15 or vnt 17 on there cars?
i dont get it? how can it be something that it is not, when its clearly stamped right on the turbo?
the 15 was off a 90hp car, and the 17 was off a 110hp car?
or have i been fed lines of BS since i started reading about these turbos?
mines off an ALH equipped 2001 Jetta TDI..
idk josh, whatever you say man, not gonna argue.
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I think the only 15s that had 15 stamped on them was the beetle. The 1749v is what is now called a vnt15...they are one and the same. The 1749va is just slightly bigger than the v. The 1749vb is "the" vnt17.
I guess the way it goes is GT1749v = Garret turbocharger, 17 is used to describe the hotside frame size, 49 is the intake wheel size in mm at the biggest part, and the v designates that it is a variable nozzle turbine
In my search for a VNT I found this knowledge. I have never actually held a VNT in my hands yet, but I think I know what I am somewhat looking for.
Garrett designated turbos intake Bore Exhaust Bore
GT 1749 V (GT15) 1.326" 1.441"
GT 1749 VA 1.390" 1.467"
GT 1749 VB (THE"17) 1.459" 1.505"
GT 2052 V(The "20) 1.550*** 1.550***
GT 2252 V 1.550 *** ***
GT 2356 1. 587 1.605
GT 2552 V to many sizes to list 1.550 to 1.700
*** These sizes vary in different series within that particular family group. Example, there are over 100 variations of the VNT 20 alone. The sizes shown here are of the most common sizes that are used in turbos manufactured for use in VW applications.
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Ron, Any update on the mileage?
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I think the only 15s that had 15 stamped on them was the beetle. The 1749v is what is now called a vnt15...they are one and the same. The 1749va is just slightly bigger than the v. The 1749vb is "the" vnt17.
I guess the way it goes is GT1749v = Garret turbocharger, 17 is used to describe the hotside frame size, 49 is the intake wheel size in mm at the biggest part, and the v designates that it is a variable nozzle turbine
In my search for a VNT I found this knowledge. I have never actually held a VNT in my hands yet, but I think I know what I am somewhat looking for.
Garrett designated turbos intake Bore Exhaust Bore
GT 1749 V (GT15) 1.326" 1.441"
GT 1749 VA 1.390" 1.467"
GT 1749 VB (THE"17) 1.459" 1.505"
GT 2052 V(The "20) 1.550*** 1.550***
GT 2252 V 1.550 *** ***
GT 2356 1. 587 1.605
GT 2552 V to many sizes to list 1.550 to 1.700
*** These sizes vary in different series within that particular family group. Example, there are over 100 variations of the VNT 20 alone. The sizes shown here are of the most common sizes that are used in turbos manufactured for use in VW applications.
well FML... ???
why would they stamp something on a turbo when its not even what it is? now thats some false info coming straight from garrett..