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Engine Specific Info and Questions => IDI Engine => Topic started by: jpedro on August 02, 2010, 05:16:09 pm
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Hey guys. This is my 1990 Vw Jetta 1.6L TD that i just did a complete rebuild on. any how to the point of my story, everything in it is brand new. i got it all put together today and set up the timming like i have done a few times before checked everything over. well went to start it and for some odd reason i thought i should get a video of it well that was sorta worth it cause now someone might have an idea as to what the sound was. everything still turns over nicely. so if its something major im scrapping this car so if theres parts any of you need ill sell cheap. theres many new parts and i have lots of extra good old parts to. but heres the video see what you all figure.........
Jpedro
video: (http://i126.photobucket.com/albums/p88/pedro_8149/Jetta%20Re-Build/th_MOV02625.jpg) (http://s126.photobucket.com/albums/p88/pedro_8149/Jetta%20Re-Build/?action=view¤t=MOV02625.mp4)
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Was the bang it shutting off? I had one do that after running for half an hour with a bad injector, and it burned into the water jacket.
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Was it a tool or a fastener falling down into the timing belt or the intake?
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Hey man, don't give up so easily!
Can you turn the crank clockwise by hand with a ratchet? If not take the timing belt off and see if the pump, crankshaft, and camshaft turn by hand.
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Everyything spins freely with timming belt. There was no tools around and everything was done properly im stumped. Ive had no luck with this unit. To much money and no gain. Why would it bang n shut down instantly like this when my t belt broke it didnt even sound that bad. Actuallyy sounded just like a stall from being in high gear goin slow
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If everything spins freely around more than two revolutions, check your intake and exhaust for restrictions or anything amiss.
If you find nothing then make sure your fuel cut solenoid is working, listen for the click.
If that is good, try starting again, and see what happens. Go slow and observe everything you can.
Are you missing any tools?
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Lol no im not missing any tools and as far as restrictions there is 0 and i dont know if the fuel solienoid clicks where do i listen for that i think ill set the timming again and re try it
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The fuel cut solenoid is on the back of the injection pump right above where all the fuel lines come out. On most old pumps it is the only part that has an electrical wire going to it. When your turn the key it should go "click". It might be easier for you to test it by running a little wire from the + on your battery to the top of the solenoid where the electrical connection goes. Just touch it to it and you should hear it. When it has power to it, it retracts and allows the motor to run, when your turn off the key, it cuts the power to that solenoid and the spring tenses up and a rubber stopper comes down and stops fuel flowing which stops the engine running.
Make sure your timing is good. Make sure your camshaft sprocket is not loose. And make sure your tension is good. Not too tight, should be able to flex 45° if you twist it side to side.
As long as you can rotate the engine several turns by hand, and everything is tight and timed, don't be afraid to try cranking again, but pay attention, make another video too.
And for the heck of it, give us a brief synopsis of what all you did, and the order in which you did it.
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Ok, ill have to check the fuel shut off tomorrow. but that doesnt explain the snapping stop.... but anyways 1st we got the timming belt wrapped around everything and installed the other belts roughly. then i TDC the injector pump. 2nd lined up the crank at TDC by aligning the two triangles threw the sight hole 3rd i flattend the two lobes on the cam to TDC and locked the cam. slide on the timming belt made sure it was sitting everywhere in the grooves properly and adjusted the tension so you could rotate around 45* so after everything was all tightened down i went threw everything took everything out that needed to be removed triple checked the timming again and went ahead and cycled the GP's and cranked away. took a bit as there was no prime on the fuel system. once it was running it all sounded good for a few seconds and then all of a suddon pop and stoped. so i tryed to turn the engine over at the crank with a ratchet and it wouldnt go very much so i took of the T belt and tried the crank again it went around many times nice and easly. the injector pump was nice feeling and also was the cam all the lifters went up and down freely without sticking or anything odd. at this time i was so mad i just stopped cause id get to pi**ed off and reck something more. so im thinking about retimming it and trying again and see what happens. Hopefully its nothing major, as i have so much money and time into this sucker id be sad to scrap it like i said im going to. seeing as engines are impossible to find here. and i dont see me rebuilding it all over again. what do you think.... if its easier for any of you to contact me fast send me a txt message on my cell phone im easier to get ahold of on there as im not on here every few hours. my number is 1-250-975-1101 and im Joe. and if i missed anything on here im sure (Thezorn) will chime in he was here helping me set the timming and get it running. thanks for your help again guys.
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So i decided id go and check out the fuel solenoid and it seems to be ok turned the key on and pulled the wire off and put it back on and it does click.
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have you confirmed good oil pressure?
when I started the G60 diesel for the first time it had the wrong oil pump in it, so it had no oil pressure.
it would start and run for a bit and then come to a very abrupt stop, and would only restart after it cooled.
I replaced the oil pump with the right one, and changed the main and rod bearings, only to find that the damage to the bearings was so slight that I could have just replaced the oil pump and run it with the old bearings in it(this is after a combined 10 minutes of running with no oil!)
-Owen
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so i tryed to turn the engine over at the crank with a ratchet and it wouldnt go very much so i took of the T belt and tried the crank again it went around many times nice and easly.
I don't believe the engine would ever turn one complete revolution with the timing belt removed. Do I understand the statement above correctly? Did you also rotate the cam by hand at the same time as the crank?
Chris
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vw diesels are supposed to be interference.. so that means that they aint supposed to turn over unless they got the belt.
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so i tryed to turn the engine over at the crank with a ratchet and it wouldnt go very much so i took of the T belt and tried the crank again it went around many times nice and easly.
I don't believe the engine would ever turn one complete revolution with the timing belt removed. Do I understand the statement above correctly? Did you also rotate the cam by hand at the same time as the crank?
Chris
When the camshaft is in TDC can't the crank rotate freely b/c all the valves are closed?
And likewise if you have the crank positioned with all 4 cylinders halfway, you can turn the camshaft all around b/c none of the valves will touch the pistons?
I think I have done this.
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I don't have the ability to view videos so just shooting from the hip on some stuff.
Did you pre-pressurize the oiling system before trying to crank/run the engine ? You can do this by removing the vac pump - and running a drill with a 13mm socket attached - in Clockwise direction - on the oilpump stub shaft. If you don't have an adapter to put a socket on a drill - you could use an impact wrench on its lowest setting.
I'm guessing you didn't prime the oil as mentioned above.
Maybe it ran on assembly lube and died out before the oiling system was up to full snuff. Sort of like truckinwagens experience.
Its also possible that it simutaneously caught an air pocket in the fuel system since you didn't prime it either.
I would get the timing coordinates back in order.
Pull a full prime on the return side of the inj pump.
Prime oil system - with valve cover off - until all lifters are oiling.
Then give him another go at it.
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When the camshaft is in TDC can't the crank rotate freely b/c all the valves are closed?
No, there is no position on the cam that all the valves are closed. You can remove the cam and then spin the crank.
And likewise if you have the crank positioned with all 4 cylinders halfway, you can turn the camshaft all around b/c none of the valves will touch the pistons
This is correct.
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There's some scary noises in that video... sorta metal on metal tapping.
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It seems as though several of the lifters are loosing oil pressure prior to the bang.
When you inserted the vacuum pump, did you make sure it seated all the way down onto the oil pump rod?
Did you happen to use any really good hi-temp assembly lube when you put this engine together??? I'm thinking there was little or no oil in the top end and a lifter siezed (really quickly) and one or more valves were left handing in dangerous space.
Once, when assembling an engine, I used bolts (that hold the fuel pump in time/mountings) which were just a little too long. The engine immediately started up and ran. Then I revved it. As the revs built (very quickly), the pump pulled the pump gear inward on the shaft, and the backside of the pump gear made contact with the tips of the mounting bolts.....cutting a circular arch into the back on the gear.....and the engine seized.
However, the seize took a few milliseconds longer to seize and there was not quite such an accompaning BANG.
After I kicked everything on the farm and cracked off a couple of teeth in my mouth....it took a long time to determine what the problem was because the engine would turn over just fine with a wrench. Only, the engine would not start because the pump shaft was internally now damaged and fuel delivery was now not possible.
But, Andrew is right about always using GREAT caution with placement of the cam gear.
You may have to simply walk away from this project until you can cool down....I understand...I have to take cardiac meds these days!
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no i didnt pre prime the system, i used assembly lube on everything that required oil on assembly. after just a few seconds of cranking i had 20psi and at an 1000rpm idle i have just over 70 psi of oil preasure. so other then re doing the timming and trying again i might just look for a decently priced motor as im not screwing with this one again. any of you guys know of a motor somewhere in british columbia i could pick up. and whats a decent price on a motor?
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I think you're giving up too soon to be honest.
These engines are extremely simple.
if there is atomized fuel getting into the cylinder and it is rotating and building compression it WILL burn the diesel. just sit and think for a bit on it.
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Its getting everything it required to run and was running for a breif minute then bang. Ive checked everthing out i could possibly check with out pulling apart the motor. So
Im gunna retime it then try her out again and if thats a now go ill be looking for a new motor for. So if any of you know of any in canada leme know please thanks
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When you retime it torque the cam gear bolt to 45ft-lbs, tap bolt with hammer and torque again until it doesn't tighten any more.
While you're in there it wouldn't hurt to put the crank at halfway and turn the cam a full circle to make sure the lifters are moving up and down.
After the belt is on turn the crank at least two turns to make sure nothing hits.
Did you torque all of the rod cap bolts? I'm thinkin' if one came off it would've stopped it pretty quick and maaaayyyybeeee didn't hurt anything too awful bad.
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Good luck on finding what that crack of doom sound was. :(
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It looks like it rocks with rotational inertia for a second it stops so suddenly. Man that's nasty.
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so i tryed to turn the engine over at the crank with a ratchet and it wouldnt go very much so i took of the T belt and tried the crank again it went around many times nice and easly.
I don't believe the engine would ever turn one complete revolution with the timing belt removed. Do I understand the statement above correctly? Did you also rotate the cam by hand at the same time as the crank?
Chris
When the camshaft is in TDC can't the crank rotate freely b/c all the valves are closed?
And likewise if you have the crank positioned with all 4 cylinders halfway, you can turn the camshaft all around b/c none of the valves will touch the pistons?
I think I have done this.
there is no spot on the cam where all the valves are closed.. there is always 2 valves open atleast a little bit all the time, no matter what position the cam is..
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Yup, that bears repeating, since it's a common misconception that can bend valves and ruin your day... there's no spot the cam sits where all valves are closed and thus safe from a crankshaft rotation perspective.
Specifically at TDC: #2 and #3 pistons are at BDC, and both have valves open:
(http://i197.photobucket.com/albums/aa85/vwaldon/TDC.jpg)
The *only* safe way to rotate an engine without a timing belt is to loosen all the cam saddle bearings (evenly and slowly ;-) ) so that the cam floats up and all valves are closed.
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one of these days when im not busy working on my truck ill try timming the car again and try starting. If not ive got a line on Vw Rabbit Diesel N/A with a man trans. That should bolt up to my trans right? and my intake and exhaust manifold should all bolt up as well? it is a mechanical head as well, runs like a top. but i think id have to use my turbo injector pump. unless one of you know of a 1.6L TD i could use...... or would using a na and adding the turbo in be easier, whats your ideas / takes on this......
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? ANYONE ?
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all of your parts, except the cylinder head, will swap. That is assuming the one in the car was a hydro head.
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I was at the library today using their hi-speed internet, and remembered to check out your video.
Luckily i put the headphones on.
You have my deepest sympathy friend.
That sounded like hell from the very start.
If your initial timing parameters all still show right - i would not attempt to run it again until a deep inspection.
Will it still rotate with a socket on the crankshaft ?
It sounded like it rattle-banged til it locked up. Not saying that is what happened - saying that is how it sounded. You already said it showed pressures on the guage.
Where does the gauge get its reading ? The oil filter pedestal or the cylinder head ?
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Since I dont know if jpedro will check up on the thread for a while Ill chime in. Yes, with a socket on the crank he can still turn the engine over just as easiley as before. And from what I remember, the oil pressure is coming from the sensor port on the drivers side of the head.
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yup i got my oil preasure from the port on the top of the head. once it cools down ill re time and try and run again, if that fails i know where there is a 1982 N/A VW Diesel i can get for cheap, put my turbo on there and swap it out alls im wondering whats the pros and cons of hydro vs. mech heads? and will the trannys from the 1990 jetta bolt up the the 1982 motor? and what should i change on it? the motor runs like a top, wasnt started for over 10 years had an old battery in it and fired right up no troubles. and as far as swapping the injector pump should i do this ? to put the turbo one on it and how hard is that to do? as much help would be greatly appreciated. thanks
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If you end up getting the mk1 motor, you'll have to chop off the motor mount that is part of the injection pump bracket. the ps motor mount attaches to the back of mk2's.
you can see where I cut the mount off here.
(http://a.imageshack.us/img9/4608/img5153v.jpg)
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ok well that seems easy enough to do. and i dont hve p/s anyways my braket that bolts to the block was damaged so i turfed it and found a shorter belt for the crank to water pump
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Yeah, it really didn't sound all that bad running until the "bang". You say everything spins freely. My initial thought would be to check to see if the cam sprocket is slipping/spinning on the camshaft. Retime and check compression as expressed before. Pull the oil pan and valve cover and look around. You should see something.....
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tomorrow night ill actually have time to set timming and giver it a whirl again, cross my fingers she runs. ill be recording again so hopefully something fantastic happens!!( hope it runs)
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Ok, so heres the scoop. today i had time to re-time my car, and check everything over..... All that said and done i figured everything look A-Ok. go ahead with a start attempt.no as much as being lucky. wouldnt start. doesnt help the starter is half dead and battery neither is to great. that being said im gettin a new starter tomorrow and the battery is in the charger right now. when i was cranking it, you cold deffinately hear it wanting to take off, it was smoking like crazy out the tail pipe good or bad not so sure, deffinatly diesel though.ill give it another whirl tomorrow when im off work. im crossing my fingers that it wakes up from its acomma tomorrow lol. ill get a video of it as well to show what its doing and someone from watching it might have an idea as what there is i need to do.
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Ok, so heres the scoop. today i had time to re-time my car, and check everything over..... All that said and done i figured everything look A-Ok. go ahead with a start attempt.no as much as being lucky. wouldnt start. doesnt help the starter is half dead and battery neither is to great. that being said im gettin a new starter tomorrow and the battery is in the charger right now. when i was cranking it, you cold deffinately hear it wanting to take off, it was smoking like crazy out the tail pipe good or bad not so sure, deffinatly diesel though.ill give it another whirl tomorrow when im off work. im crossing my fingers that it wakes up from its acomma tomorrow lol. ill get a video of it as well to show what its doing and someone from watching it might have an idea as what there is i need to do.
Make note of the smoke colour (or position the camera so we can see)
Colour of the smoke tells quite a bit about what's happening as well...
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so i retimeed the engine tonight and tried again with a new starter / batteries. that made a huge difference but still lots of dark grey almost black smoke coming out the exhaust, but it still wont actually start, ill do a video tomorrow and post it up with what it is doing cause i know thats what you all like to see is videos lol.
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I'll preface wthis next comment question with an I DON"T KNOW....
Could the pump be 180* out?
What are the symptoms of that?
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So heres a video of the car, and as "westcoaster" stated the pump could be 180* out? how is that possible when i locked the injector pump with the dowl hole? how do i check that for sure? or any other ideas on this POS of a car i have lol. thanks
(http://i126.photobucket.com/albums/p88/pedro_8149/Jetta%20Re-Build/th_MOV02654.jpg) (http://s126.photobucket.com/albums/p88/pedro_8149/Jetta%20Re-Build/?action=view¤t=MOV02654.mp4)
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For some reason it's only firing on one cylinder.... I think you must have some internal damage from something.... After all, there is a reason it sounded so bad and came to a sudden stop in the first video..
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thats what i kinda thought, ugggghhh i hate this car lol i suppose ill pull of the oil pan and inspect what went wrong.....
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Damn that is a lot of smoke just for cranking RPM. Had you been turning it over for awhile before that video?
FWIW, I had a NA 1.6 with that same 1 cyl firing sound that was due to a dead front pump seal sucking tons of air, didn't smoke like that though.
Compression test?
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I got nothing....
Those in the know Should post up at some point....
That almost looks like incomplete combustion. I regularly start my camp fires with a jug of diesel. Sometimes I pour it on a bed of coals and end up with that white-ish smoke. (until I flick my lighter at it and things go *POOF*) How you would get that out of an engine, I'm not sure...
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Compression test?
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v603/burnyourmoney/up1.jpg) (http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v603/burnyourmoney/up1.jpg)
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Is it me or is the fact that the smoke is coming out slower than a 100 year-old lady having a pee, a sign of something wrong with your compression...
Not that I've made a study of exhaust rates though ;D
Any smoke entering the valve cover?
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Another vote for compression test....
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... the pump could be 180* out? how is that possible when i locked the injector pump with the dowl hole? how do i check that for sure?
I'll have to get back over to the library and see the newest video.
Its pretty easy for new-to-dieselers to get the pump 180* off - it'll fit the lock either way.
When all parameters are correct - the KEYWAY on the pump shaft/pulley will be pointing towards the engine - NOT pointing forward towards the radiator.
There is also an index mark on the pulley that should be at top 12 o'clock. Sometimes its marked on front - sometimes on back.
They will start hard and run about half power, at best.
Not saying that is your fix, just answering that question.
And its worth checking.
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I have been biting my tongue for almost twenty four hours now...
Motor is clearly protesting the insult to it's clattery dignity that the exhaust "thing" on there is inflicting upon it.
;)
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today i made the call to the guy who has a NA motor so now im just in the process of pulling that motor out to make room for the new motor. does 400.00 for a well running motor with 125000km sound fair? the engine is a 82? and anything i should do before i put my turbo on all that good stuff on it?
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today i made the call to the guy who has a NA motor so now im just in the process of pulling that motor out to make room for the new motor. does 400.00 for a well running motor with 125000km sound fair? the engine is a 82? and anything i should do before i put my turbo on all that good stuff on it?
.....But we want answers first!! Bent valves??? :o
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I would second Libbybapa's vote for the cam sprocket slipping. I think that horrible sound was the pistons telling the valves where they should be. :-[
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I would second Libbybapa's vote for the cam sprocket slipping. I think that horrible sound was the pistons telling the valves where they should be. :-[
If the cam sprocket did slip, he would know if it was out any when he went to retime it
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And here's why... if you just walk away from this engine and swap in another, without figuring out where it went amiss... well, as they say.... he who forgets the past is doomed to repeat it. :o
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today i made the call to the guy who has a NA motor so now im just in the process of pulling that motor out to make room for the new motor. does 400.00 for a well running motor with 125000km sound fair? the engine is a 82? and anything i should do before i put my turbo on all that good stuff on it?
Gotta agree with the others.
Your walking too soon on this. Either that or there's something your not telling us.
Lack of tools? (I can see where you don't have a compression tester)
Lack of time and or place to work on it? (daily driver?)
Lack of money? (trying to stop the bleeding)
I can see where you may need to get SOMETHING in and running but for the love of everything diesel don't dump this project. Someone up there must have an old roach wagon you can buy for $400 until you get this one going again...
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Someone just explained how an engine will run with the IP 180 degrees but:
It will be hard to start and it will smoke a lot, and not have much power but it will run. ::)
You can read about it here:http://www.vwdiesel.net/forum/index.php?topic=26681.0 (http://www.vwdiesel.net/forum/index.php?topic=26681.0)
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Hey everyone, i was reading all the new posts tonight. I dont have a compression tester tool so im outta luck on that one. but what i discovered is my cam timming is ok, injector pump timming is ok and the crank not so much..... the mark is towards the radiator about 3/8" how does this happen when its all tight and was all aligned perfectly? was that snap in the first video the motor breaking the keyway on the crank pulley? and is it slipping now? Thezorn was just over and we were looking at it and thats what we came to think, so i tried cranking it for him and we noticed there is some smoke comming out of the valve cover as well, but there is new pistons and rings that never have been seated either. so when the weather up here gets nice again me and Thezorn will check out the crank pulley and see if it is messed up. i know all holes build really good compresion cause when i roll the engine over by hand its hard as hell to do so and when the valves open you can hear the air moving. im thinking my timming is out to much to actually run hense all the smoke. ill keep checking it out but ill also be preping the new motor gettting it ready to go in, im not sure if its a 1.5L or 1.6 NA im pretty sure its a mechanical head. but the other question i have about that now is when i go to bolt my trans up to it, how do i alighn it properly so my timming marks all are the same if you know what i mean, but i would like to figuree out what happeend to this motor in there right now. so if theres anything else you need to know ask away, if i dont answer right away im sure Thezorn can help some to hes seen alot of this car to lol. thanks all
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my cam timming is ok, injector pump timming is ok and the crank not so much....
Your cam timing is NOT ok if your crank is 3/8" out. You may have sheared the key (probably not), but the crank simply may have moved when you were diddling with the cam and pump since it is not locked. You need at least three hands to time a VW diesel, like it says in the Bentley.
You should pull the crank pulley and check it, but you need to get the timing spot on if you expect this thing to run without bending valves (if you didn't already). You really can't damage the engine (short term) if you get pump timing wrong, but you can damage it if the cam and crank aren't EXACTLY where they need to be.
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Why are you potentially wasting your money buying new engines, if all you may need to buy is a compression tester?
I doubt much damage has been done to the engine, as you were only idling the engine at the time. If engines can recover from breaks when 1 tonne of car is attached, then I think you're being a little hasty.
Get a budget compression tester whatever you decide, as it's a tool that will be useful in the future!
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Seeing as he is in Terrace, It may not be as simple as running down to your local parts store and buying one....
Long shot but, perhaps you could badger your local Canadian Tire to rent you one. Even if it means they need to bring it up on the bus?
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It dousn't take long to pull the cam and inspect your hydraulic lifters,if your crank sprocket slipped the pistons would hit the valve stems in your lifters and destroyed them,since your car was idling it could very well be the only thing thats broken
Allmost no valve lift also explanes the no starting and heavy smoke when trying
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ill have order a comp tester. and yes the cam timming was exactly where it should be and the injector pump dowel was in place and also the cam locking plate, the cam sprocket was tightend to about 100ft lbs so theres no way that slipped...... Thezorn was here to witness all this so there is no BS in me saying where my timming marks are. im almost betting the keyway sheared off. when the weather allows us to do so well check that key way and ill rip out the cam and check for collapsed lifters seeing as i happen to have 16 extra ones for some odd reason need be ill replace em and try again, and where does the compression tester hook into? Gp's or the intjectors?
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Could you guys post a pic or 3 of the cam, IP, and crank? Preferably when the cam and IP are locked in place and what the crank is doing when those are locked in. If the key way snapped it shouldn't be in time unless it spun around to near perfect alignment...which would be my luck. I just would like to see it since it seems there are conflicting info in these posts.
Also, you can get a comp tester and then adaptors come with it. I have one for the injector and one for the GP. Maybe others are different, but that is what mine is.
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sorry i wont be able to get pics, i removed the timming belt already and also the cam to check the lifters and there fine, and i attempted to remove the crank bolt with no luck, whats the best way for that.
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sorry i wont be able to get pics, i removed the timming belt already and also the cam to check the lifters and there fine, and i attempted to remove the crank bolt with no luck, whats the best way for that.
This is on a 1.6TD?
Those aren't really "known" to shear the end.
As far as the bolt goes, brace the crank and use the mother of all cheater bars. I had a dickens of a time when trying to remove mine. Make sure you use a socket with a "lifetime" warranty....
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IF you didn't leave the camshaft bolt and sprocket "loose" when you set/adjusted the tension on the timing belt - that would cause the crank to go advanced - and perhaps by the same amount you have specified.
Just putting it out there.
The crankshaft parameter always needs triple checking all the time since it isn't locked securely. Not to be taken lightly for sure.
A 1.6 will have either 16 (usually 11mm) - or - 1.6 (usually 12mm) in big raised cast numbers on the backside (firewall side) of the block.
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sorry i wont be able to get pics, i removed the timming belt already and also the cam to check the lifters and there fine, and i attempted to remove the crank bolt with no luck, whats the best way for that.
If you can't undo the crank bolt, then I'd be inclined to leave it, as your problem lies elsewhere IMO
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I agree, leave the crank bolt alone, but put some witness marks on the pulley and bolt so that if it happens again you will see the movement. If you remove the bolt, you will need to replace it as it is a stretch bolt(unless this is an early 1.6)
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Just tossing another idea into the ring, you don't have a lightened flywheel on that thing do you? If there is oil in the cylinder from the build, that could pink or knock all at once, might be able to stop the motor dead if the flywheel was too light. Unlikely though.
If the cam shaft sprocket is at 100 ftlb (eeek!) you sure it hasn't cracked then lost your timing? Some were sintered crap.
Or you just found where that missing nut went. :'(
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100ft/lbs is really asking for trouble. Clean well, use 50 or so, it ain't going anywhere. But CLEAN mating surfaces for the gear. People keep talking bout these things coming loose, never heard of such in hundreds of thousands of miles of driving and decades of owning and hanging out at VW shops and part houses, etc, till I found a VW diesel forum. It's possible I'm just lucky, and/or just really really good. :)
Was it still tight when you pulled the cam out or did you remove the pulley?
Did you leave the cam sprocket loose while you timed the motor the way the book says? Or was it tight and the marks lined up? If the crank is off when the cam and IP are spot on, I suspect install error to be honest. It's not hard to do, at all, for anyone. I can't count how many times I've put those belts on and I always, always, always check twice, take a break, and check again. And the alignment mark viewed through the trans hole is sorta halfassed in my opinion. There are quite a few small diesels with crank locking pin tools not unlike the pump lock, much better setup. But it's close enough for a single tooth either way on a cogged belt. I use an impact by choice on that bolt, carefully. Clean threads and blue locktight and whatever the book torque/angle is. The locktight is as much to make sure it'll come out next time as to keep it in.
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I did have the cam pulley lose when i timmed the engine. But today i did get the crank pulley off. Theres still a key. The pulley never moved so i think im going to put it all back together retime it and see if itll come alive. If it doesnt im going to pull the oil and inspect in side there. And when i reassembled the motor i used goober amounts of pre loob. Includding loaded the cylinders with it when i slide in the new pistons/rings
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Was reading this older topic and had to search the board to find the end of the chapter:
"The first motor decided to give up on life after me being a tard and leaving a peice of paper in my intake after painting and forgeting about it. enough said? well now its got a 1988 1.6L NA converted to turbo....
It was a full piece of paper shop towel stuck in the #3 Hole and went threw it, and is partially wrapped around the valve but a good portion was stuck inside the turbo and plugged right up with soot so i figuree thats why the exhaust was barely making it outta the exhaust pip, and as far as timming issues there was NO issues with that it was checked many times over and over again. and all my parts i am keeping, i have so many of them now. more then i know what to do with. the only thing that is wrong with the other motor is its always had a hairline crack in the block right behine the vacum pump into the water jacket not a big ddeal if some one wanted to weld it with some carbon (cast) rods or seal it up some how but i have no use for it now. Thezorn and myself dropped in the new motor and swapped everything over and what not got it running and timmed it by ear but there is still some adjustment needed because the injectors still tick a bit so ill bring it in and get it done properly."
http://www.vwdiesel.net/forum/index.php?topic=26949.msg217727#msg217727
Props to the OP for going the distance.
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Possibly like the 12th thread I've recently read where a RAG HAS DESTROYED THE WHOLE ENGINE.
Lesson;
TAKE YOUR RAGS OUT! OR DON'T USE THEM IF YOU HAVE THE MEMORY CAPABILITIES OF A GOLD FISH ;) LOL
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What did I just read?
Oh look a fish flake!
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What did I just read?
Oh look a fish flake!
*Blink* . . .what?
Lame to hear the rag got you. Let that be a lesson to you; TAPE YOUR OPENINGS WHEN ASSEMBLING!! Why do you think you see painters tape over ports on freshly rebuilt stand engines?! Rant over, I'm happy you stuck with it and didn't let this mistake discourage you from your second engine. We all have your first mistakes; shame yours had to be that big.