VWDiesel.net The IDI, TDI, and mTDI source.
Engine Specific Info and Questions => IDI Engine => Topic started by: NintendoKD on July 07, 2010, 11:19:52 pm
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ok, so I will be negotiating with the chinese, on behalf of those here that want to run enought boost to kill a herd of elephants, much less an alumionum head/start a forge inside your engine ::) I need numbers, no crap interest in said unobtanium, so that I can feed these numbers to my contacts in china, or possibly Vietnam "the latter has lower production costs per unit" I will probably pitt the two of them aginst each other to get a more competetive price, but will not accept junk, in other words we will get quality as quality can get from said countries. We also need to iron out some details, this will be for an AAZ head the goal is 5-800 USD per unit @ or about 100 units if there is enough interest, we also need to figure out dimensions or any modifications that we as users would like to add to the final product, it would be adventageous of us to take hold of this golden opportunity to input good design ideas such as valve stem dia. valve dia. etc to build a somewhat "better" head we can send them all kinds of numbers but before we confuse the crap outta them and waste a crapload of R&D money on a fruitless venture I would like to have all of our own R&D ducks in a row so to speak. We also need to decide whether or not the finishing work will be done here, or in location keeping in mind that it will likely be cheaper to get it done there rather than here because of shipping, union fees, taxes etc. you see where I'm going with this I am going to move forward soon so I need to get as much participation from the forum and it's members as possible, so tell all your friends that you think will be interested. we will also have to come up with a central shipping location in the states that the heads can come to and be processed out of after fees are paid of course, all money will probably be taken up front as soon as a price is negotiated so hold on to your checkbooks. I will be double fisting it, I am the team captqain for team kai hei tai for the Military only battle of the builds so I can't do everything and being that I am running this as well as a myriad of other things in preparation of Deployment to Afghanistan I may die inevitably and someone will have to take up the bridle and replace me if this is ever going to be completed.
thanks,
Kevin
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If you do get the print/pattern. I would like to take it to my buddy Rajiv. I sell to him and there is no union there :D I am confident that I can get the best USA price of anyone and it be of great quality. I send a ton of Amish customers there for there short run farm machinery parts and he does them very well. I just need the pattern and what steel we want.
BTW I would like a head, but the wife will cut pieces of me off in my sleep, unless it is cheaper :D
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vietnam it is then. ;) Hold on, I'll have to brush up on my vietnamese. :P The great thing about being in the military is the diversity of folks here, there isn't only your training, there are volumes upopn volumes to be learned just from the folks around you. Makes me wonder what some of the dolts who get out have really been doing their entire elistment. :-\
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I really want to be in but I can't commit financially right now. I want this to become reality so bad!
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That price would be for the bare casting, right? ...I'm interested.
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im in :)
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Too bad you couldn't have them make some audi 5000 TD steel heads; That would be wonderful.
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If there is enough interest it could certainly be done, as I am well aware of the flaws that those heads have. From a proffessional sandpoint, the private sector, like the community that we have here has the best chance of making something like this come to fruition, as there isn't enough demand individually from one region to the next, instead, our community spans the globe giving us a huge advantage, all we need now is numbers, sheer multitudes, and a junk head for the audi 5000 td guys. ;)
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NintendoKD, you're a little bit nuts, but I like it! :-*
If it can be kept in the $500 range, I'd be in for one.
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If it would be possible to keep a 5000 head in that price range I could send you a junk head right away. Let me know if there is enough interest, and send me a PM if there is!
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whoretex it up bro, I already have interests there in multiple sections, I only have responses in the custom fabrication section, and it is just full of haters/non-believers. I just gotta get the word out, I know there are a crap ton of folks that want these just don't know that I'm offering, call your friends. There may even be interest in the gasser 8v circles.
http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?4907266-CAD-MAPS-anyone-help-digitizing-an-old-IDI (http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?4907266-CAD-MAPS-anyone-help-digitizing-an-old-IDI)
http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?4947079-interest (http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?4947079-interest)
http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?4947074-Interest-4340-aaz-head (http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?4947074-Interest-4340-aaz-head)
http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?4947077-interest-4340-aaz-turbo-diesel-head (http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?4947077-interest-4340-aaz-turbo-diesel-head)
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NintendoKD, you're a little bit nuts, but I like it! :-*
If it can be kept in the $500 range, I'd be in for one.
ME! NUTS!@#$??
No way, you folks are crazy, I'm likely the only sane one here 8)
I am fighting for something that we in the turbo IDI community should have had access to a LOOOOOONG time ago, and in plenty, and cheap......and....... well, when I think of something else I will likely insert it here.
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any modifications in order? changes to the original aaz design?
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any modifications in order? changes to the original aaz design?
If it were up to me, it would get a moderate port, but otherwise nothing at all changed
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I would be in all day long for one.
just a question, might it be worth contacting one of the aftermarket companies that already makes aluminum heads(topline?) and see if they could make a run of steel ones if we got enough interest?
-Owen
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already contacted them, they politely told me that they didn't want our buisness, in just a few more words
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haha yeah id have to agree maybe just a bit of a mild port job would be about the only change
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I'd be interested in one if it ended up in the $500 range. I'm looking forward to seeing if you can hit the $500 -$800 range as I used to work in manufacturing engineering for a casting steel company in Canada and currently work for a top end, machine shop that does lots for heavy industry. The other question is I would have is casting/foundries tend to have a large amount of scrap(bad castings) on something complicated like this. Will there be a warranty if there are problems with the casting? Or will that be for us to deal with? Will this be a weldable alloy? If its .30% carbon or higher that is extremely difficult. If you can answer a few of those questions - count me in!
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that is why I made this post, we can add collective design Ideas to make this as best a concept as possible to avoid problems in the final product. not sure about a warranty, but I will make sure that I will ask, they will be pressure tested and stress tested before they go out to everyone.
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If anyone has seen Aki-76's head (or is it TurboJ?) I think that would be an avenue to go down. He ported his aaz head to the point where he needed over sized valves. His two valves (per cylinder) almost touch each other.
once we get drawings of the head and a 3D graphical of it, it should be clear how much bigger the points can get before risking structural integrity (seeing as it will be steel not soft alluminium)
Edit: at least i thought they got over sized valves. I couldn't find the pictures in the jetta 200 thread... there is a picture of a piston with big cutouts for larger lift on the valves...
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thermal expansion, the mold would have to be redone, couldn't use the same one. XXX,XXX cost
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so what's new here? Don't let this idea be dead in the water...
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Well Andy2 apparently has a cast iron head on a TDI... i just read that. Where did he find that?
I'd be very interested in casting an alluminum 16v IDI head. possibly much cheaper? but less potential i suppose.
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Well Andy2 apparently has a cast iron head on a TDI... i just read that. Where did he find that?
I'd be very interested in casting an alluminum 16v IDI head. possibly much cheaper? but less potential i suppose.
benefits?
wouldn't crossflow be awkward with our IPs kinda in the way?
I'm not sure how I'll get the money, but I'd be interested, but want more info first.
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best valve size is 39 in and 34 ex orginal aaz head.Bigger bore ( 81 ) can use 41 / 35 valves.That latesīt version my own head is allmost twice better flow vs. orginal.
If you can,i recomend rise intake port and use diffrend port shape.
If i make head,can you copy that to cast iron ?
here is flowchart
http://s434.photobucket.com/albums/qq68/Aki-76/asiakas%20osia%20ja%20muuta/?action=view¤t=tsivirtauslappu.jpg (http://s434.photobucket.com/albums/qq68/Aki-76/asiakas%20osia%20ja%20muuta/?action=view¤t=tsivirtauslappu.jpg)
http://i434.photobucket.com/albums/qq68/Aki-76/moottorin%20osia/03042010812.jpg (http://i434.photobucket.com/albums/qq68/Aki-76/moottorin%20osia/03042010812.jpg)
http://i434.photobucket.com/albums/qq68/Aki-76/moottorin%20osia/07102009606.jpg (http://i434.photobucket.com/albums/qq68/Aki-76/moottorin%20osia/07102009606.jpg)
4 valves per cylinder,that is what we want.
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aki, do you have a video with good sound quality of what that engine sounds like with those massive valves?
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sorry but i donīt have good video,only few...
Volkswagen Vento TTSI 1/4 mile test (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XO1oMFw066k#)
http://s434.photobucket.com/albums/qq68/Aki-76/moottorin%20osia/?action=view¤t=DSCN1057.mp4 (http://s434.photobucket.com/albums/qq68/Aki-76/moottorin%20osia/?action=view¤t=DSCN1057.mp4)
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not like that thing has torque or anything 8)
thats pretty amazing. love the way it sounds. that squeal is the tires breaking loose in like 3rd gear, right?
thats some pretty amazing stuff Aki, keep up the AWESOME work.
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I love the pics of that head, any more? That's one hell of a port job!
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best valve size is 39 in and 34 ex orginal aaz head.Bigger bore ( 81 ) can use 41 / 35 valves.That latesīt version my own head is allmost twice better flow vs. orginal.
Did you need to find larger diameter valve seats or did the stock ones have enough material left? Specifically for the 39/34 valves.
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valve seat is extra hard stainless steel,only for racing use.and lot of bigger thant orginal.If you use 39mm valve,you need 40 or 41mm seat.
egine give all most 150nm torgue at 1100 rpm,and 450-480nm 4500rpm.Redline is 6500rpm.That 1/4mile video drive only half of normal boost.
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any modifications in order? changes to the original aaz design?
Larger valves / runners are always welcome if there is room for them ;-)
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thermal expansion, the mold would have to be redone, couldn't use the same one. XXX,XXX cost
Said another way, when you pour the liquid metal into a mold, as it cools it shrinks. The rate depends on the alloy. You have a large pour funnel and raisers on top of the mold that fill when you do the pour. As the metal shinks, it pulls metal in from the funnel and raisers. I don't know the difference between aluminum and steel, but tool steel we calulated 17% shrinkage. You should be able to find this on the web. It could be there is a steel alloy with a similar rate to the aluminum casting. Maybe a stainless ? :-D $$$
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staibnless head...... hmmmmmm........ now THAT would be sexy 8)
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and way out of the realms of most of us. stainless would cost more than an arm and a leg.
i still wanna be able to give my VW throttle and shift after we get these new heads! so i will be needing all my limbs.
and when is the head going to be stronger than the block? im sure its not gonna take much to make the block the weak point.
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41/40 cast steel with some machining sound good? I had a great machinist suggest it and I think it is definately in the realm of the doable
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if the head is in the 500 dollar range, everyone will want one. if its 5000 dollars, nobody will want one..
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still in for updates, thanks for keeping this dream alive KD ;D
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if the head is in the 500 dollar range, everyone will want one. if its 5000 dollars, nobody will want one..
No way dude...everyone will still want it at 5,000.00, they just won't buy it 8) Well someone might, but not this guy
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im really REALLY hoping these heads will be somewhat affordable. but the thing is, it would probably cost less for us to all buy TDI short blocks and machine up some TDI heads. then there is no need for pre cups and all that sort of machining.. crap, we could even not machine the heads for GPs for people in warmer climates. TDIs barely need GPs anyway.
ive been told the TDI head is much easier and cheaper to build.. and the engines are only capable of 3 or 400 hp or so :o
what are we waiting for?!?!?!
and good point Lucas.. i like your thinking.. everyone is going to be in the "just window shopping" boat if they cost too much..
i thought the whole point was to keep the heads as cheap as possible.. and every time we hear updates, they are sounding more and more expensive..
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currently still working an angle on this folks, I just need to find someone that is willing to hear me out and not laugh me out of their shop, or off the phone.
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well, you do seem to come across as pretty crazy sometimes ;D
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MARINE, CRAZY, synonymous I get that a lot actually, I consider it a compliment
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ANy updates on this. Even at $800 a pop, its still a good deal.. Whats a used one go for.. 3-400? and thats a soft one.
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Kev is still gone over seas..
unless someone else wants to pick up the ball on this one and get it rolling again?
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still haven't dropped the ball on this, just in Afghan right now, but anyone is more than welcome to give it a go. I think that this would be really great for the community, and that is probably my biggest motivator "how cool would it be for everyone here to have a cast iron or steel head, at a reasonable cost"
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i made a conclusion..
if we are really gonna make steel heads, they need to be for the TDI engine..
it would be much easier to cast and machine a TDI head. plus, you would be able to make twice, if not 3 times the power of an IDI..
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the idis are swell and rev like a gas car but thats really the only advantage, the tdi is better in every other way, once i have my jetta together, i still want to build a franken engine for it and shoot for 200hp, but after that i am moving on to tdis or gas engines(still daily diesels tho haha)
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im ready to build a supercharged 16v gasser..
sure our diesels are cool, but ive got a turbo rabbit, and a diesel datsun pickup. i need a gas car again.. and a fast one, my buddy bought an SRT-4, so i gotta make a S/C Jetta keep up with that.
shouldnt even be hard, those cars arent even 250 hp stock.
im thinking my 16v ABA will be 250 hp if it runs..
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250 should be cake for an abf clone. as much as i would really love to have an iron head and see what one of these engines could really do, it just isn't cost effective, and the markets too narrow for them to ever have a decent price.
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yea, the diesels are a rare breed, and people tuning them, even more rare..
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I'd buy one.
If someone gets a head scanned into 3d, I want a copy. Curious.
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If we are going cast iron could we make it cross flow??? use the same stock intake and hope to clear the IP and injectors??? Just an idea:D
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to go cross flow you neeed to rotate the prechamber and injector and lean them a bit to clear the intake runner.
the isuzu(crossflow) has injectors leaned over to clear, and the prechamber points off-center of the piston(and the piston top has the cloverleaf cut differently)
-Owen
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If we are going cast iron could we make it cross flow??? use the same stock intake and hope to clear the IP and injectors??? Just an idea:D
There's no way it the intake mani would clear the injector lines though. Try changing the GP's and imagine a manifold sitting there too ;D.
With a steel head you could probably get away with less metal here and there making larger runners possible.
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one of the biggest motivators to moving to a steel head, and he is right, making a cross flow 8v head would require the modification of a lot more than just the head, I need a print, or someone that can do auto cad to measure and print the head so that we at least have that out of the way, I was just going to have the foundry do it, but for time constraint purposes, and also the idea of an enthusiast forum having a 3-d print of such A THING AVAILABLE TO THE WHOLE COMMUNITY COULD MAKE tuning or modification much more visual. shoot, I'm no visionary, just making a suggestion here. OH! btw, greetings from ramstein AFB Germany folks, don't worry, just passing through on my way back to the battlefield to fight the zombie hoardes in Afghanistan.
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i still think we should all just switch to TDI.. then we could have a cast iron head, and the possibility of 80+ psi boost, and 4 or 500 hp..
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make it cross flow will require alot of engineering and r&d, just getting one made from iron is big enough of a chore really. but i agree beyond a 200whp goal tdis are where its at.
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one of the biggest motivators to moving to a steel head, and he is right, making a cross flow 8v head would require the modification of a lot more than just the head, I need a print, or someone that can do auto cad to measure and print the head so that we at least have that out of the way, I was just going to have the foundry do it, but for time constraint purposes, and also the idea of an enthusiast forum having a 3-d print of such A THING AVAILABLE TO THE WHOLE COMMUNITY COULD MAKE tuning or modification much more visual. shoot, I'm no visionary, just making a suggestion here. OH! btw, greetings from ramstein AFB Germany folks, don't worry, just passing through on my way back to the battlefield to fight the zombie hoardes in Afghanistan.
Seen chalked on the back of a Marine LAV
"do not brake for Taliban"
Is that you Kevin? It was spotted by a friend of mine working in the Marine AO.
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if it was southern Helmand than that is us, c co 3lar bn a nd we frequently work with the brittish. good bunch o guys
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coming home soon, still trying my darnedest, to get the ball rolling on this. any more takers? the idea here to get as many interested as possible so I can get the price per unit down. The final idea is not a 34/30 head but one of cast, similar in alloy to the 1.6 blocks. BTW, anyone got a lowdown on the exact mix of one of these, or some literature on it?
thanks,
Kevin
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I want this done, not so much for me, but for everyone here, I have contacted a couple more people but here stateside, I need , like REALLY NEED an autocad saavy guy to print one for me, there is an busted aaz head just begging to be played with here. Also, I would like to iron out all of the details, on this and believe the community input/majority vote wins rule here irov vs steel, what type, changes, finished or bare, etc that way I have something other than "we are still working that out to give to the machinists, as they tend to dislike indecisiveness.
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Let me know when and I will have it cast. I deal with several major casting companies that do ductile iron. One guy actually likes me :D and would give me a deal I am sure.
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need a junk head for that? I have one.
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what about adjusting the valve angle or allowing for a larger set of valves by moving them out a little further, instead of having them so close togeather,
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I agree, lets do that, we need some specifics, so that we know which aftermarket valves to use, same dia? different length? need some quantitative numbers, normally I would be right on this but the fact that everything is in storage halfway around the world from me right now prevents me from doing much, sorry guys. How far apart are we planning to go. how far can we go before we interfere with the water jacket/port definition "don't want to have to use a completely different intake mani do we?" the franken motor is notorious for cold start issues, , so my next question is can we inset the valves even more to allow for more vertical travel without compromising CR, VERY importatnt questions folks.
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I agree, lets do that, we need some specifics, so that we know which aftermarket valves to use, same dia? different length? need some quantitative numbers, normally I would be right on this but the fact that everything is in storage halfway around the world from me right now prevents me from doing much, sorry guys. How far apart are we planning to go. how far can we go before we interfere with the water jacket/port definition "don't want to have to use a completely different intake mani do we?" the franken motor is notorious for cold start issues, , so my next question is can we inset the valves even more to allow for more vertical travel without compromising CR, VERY importatnt questions folks.
if we move the valves out, what about the cam adjustment to compensate? I can't see a whole lot of play, without making hot spots on the cooling jacket. Insetting the valves will affect the CR somewhat, and also may cause the need to redesign the cam to work under the new specs. Just spit balling here so feel free to add or refute my thoughts.
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I would need a pattern or money to make one :D Then all the casting can be done. Rough cast will look different than the finished machined junk head you have.
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I'm a Marine, but I'm not a complete idiot. we need to sell a lot of these to bring price down? most that would want one of these would want a new cam, however, I am sure there are those that want to keep their stock cam, so...... what to do?
also, I am offering a junk aaz head for printing purposes, one that can be cross sectioned up and dissected that won't hurt someone trying to keep one of these precious heads. I am willing to donate to a good cause here. 8)
love,
Kevin :-*
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I'm a Marine, but I'm not a complete idiot. we need to sell a lot of these to bring price down? most that would want one of these would want a new cam, however, I am sure there are those that want to keep their stock cam, so...... what to do?
also, I am offering a junk aaz head for printing purposes, one that can be cross sectioned up and dissected that won't hurt someone trying to keep one of these precious heads. I am willing to donate to a good cause here. 8)
love,
Kevin :-*
If you were a complete idiot, you'd be a naval officer..........
back on subject, the cam would have to change enough with the new design parameters that we would need a cam designed to work with the block, or we more then likely will see live catastrophic failure of the engine and new head on first start.
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not disagreeing with you..... on either count. I was spitballing that some may be discouraged from buying one if there are too many modifications. kiss it and it will be better K eep I t S imple S tupid inevitably we will end up modding everything "ooh, let's change this, or OH! let's change that" face it we can do it better than the Germans did we have the technology, we can make it stronger, faster "tv ref." My question is should we do that??? don't get me wrong, I am just as eager to milk this cow dry as any warm blooded male with speed on his mind.
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not disagreeing with you..... on either count. I was spitballing that some may be discouraged from buying one if there are too many modifications. kiss it and it will be better K eep I t S imple S tupid inevitably we will end up modding everything "ooh, let's change this, or OH! let's change that" face it we can do it better than the Germans did we have the technology, we can make it stronger, faster "tv ref." My question is should we do that??? don't get me wrong, I am just as eager to milk this cow dry as any warm blooded male with speed on his mind.
if were gonna re-design the entire head, lets make it cross flow, and twin cam, and 16v.. if were gonna change some of the design, we might as well completely change it, so its more like the later VW diesel heads from europe..
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cross flow twin cam mmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmm donut................ I mean I'd rock that
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ok, what changes are we talking here, new cam? rearranged ports, what else?
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maybe a 12 valve, as we would have to use much smaller valves to still fit within the chamber and pre-cup. use the same size intake valve and 2 smaller exhaust with an overall dia. larger than the single. just have one valve tappet push two valve stems.
but insetting the valve wouldent be a bad idea, a small drop in compression 1 or 3 points, just raise the boost a few points to compansate.
what does the cross flow offer that the non c/f doesnt?
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I would be in about $600, I think we should just build stock aaz heads, if we get into custom *** it either won't happen, or it will get messed up.
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stock aaz with a slight inset would be a good compromise, maybe see about slightly larger valves too
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not disagreeing with you..... on either count. I was spitballing that some may be discouraged from buying one if there are too many modifications. kiss it and it will be better K eep I t S imple S tupid inevitably we will end up modding everything "ooh, let's change this, or OH! let's change that" face it we can do it better than the Germans did we have the technology, we can make it stronger, faster "tv ref." My question is should we do that??? don't get me wrong, I am just as eager to milk this cow dry as any warm blooded male with speed on his mind.
if were gonna re-design the entire head, lets make it cross flow, and twin cam, and 16v.. if were gonna change some of the design, we might as well completely change it, so its more like the later VW diesel heads from europe..
Can one of these EU 16v heads be obtained as a printing donor ?
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I wonder if Danster can find a pooched one, the caster will obviously not include cracks between the valves
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maybe a 12 valve, as we would have to use much smaller valves to still fit within the chamber and pre-cup. use the same size intake valve and 2 smaller exhaust with an overall dia. larger than the single. just have one valve tappet push two valve stems.
but insetting the valve wouldent be a bad idea, a small drop in compression 1 or 3 points, just raise the boost a few points to compansate.
what does the cross flow offer that the non c/f doesnt?
it would be better to have 2 intakes and one exhaust..
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maybe a 12 valve, as we would have to use much smaller valves to still fit within the chamber and pre-cup. use the same size intake valve and 2 smaller exhaust with an overall dia. larger than the single. just have one valve tappet push two valve stems.
but insetting the valve wouldent be a bad idea, a small drop in compression 1 or 3 points, just raise the boost a few points to compansate.
what does the cross flow offer that the non c/f doesnt?
it would be better to have 2 intakes and one exhaust..
Cummings went to 4 valves when they updated their 5.9L - Was there a 12v IDI in any market ? A copy will always be less work than a "new" design.
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I am all for the simple design, this keeps prototypes to a minimum, and improves overall result, we can always tinkier with a new design later. inset valves, valve size change, and improved port size/shape. only three changes, and not difficult ones at that. that should be it. ok, now lets do this thing. first step? let me know if there is anything I can do.
what is this about a eu head with more valves, this is a completely different engine isn't it? won't work with the blocks we have? someone tell me more about this please, don't have to post you can pm me. Arb, welcome, and thank you for joining. good to hear from some experience.
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I am all for the simple design, this keeps prototypes to a minimum, and improves overall result, we can always tinkier with a new design later. inset valves, valve size change, and improved port size/shape. only three changes, and not difficult ones at that. that should be it. ok, now lets do this thing. first step? let me know if there is anything I can do.
what is this about a eu head with more valves, this is a completely different engine isn't it? won't work with the blocks we have? someone tell me more about this please, don't have to post you can pm me. Arb, welcome, and thank you for joining. good to hear from some experience.
the european heads were still 8v idi, or 16v TDI later down the road.. but roller cam and all that fun stuff.. but for the small block diesels.
if we wanna K.I.S.S. then we just need to directly copy the AAZ head..
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I really think that we should just do a direct copy, at least for now., we can pay later. I plan to live a few more years at least untill the temple is completely torn down and rebuilt.
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The one change I would make is to put a precup with a larger internal volume in. This would lower compression exactly where you want it to, thereby reducing peak force attempting to tear your bottom end apart for the power you're making.
Having a multi valve head would be good, although if you want more air, you can simply turn the boost or NOS up to compensate. There's no substitute for lowering compression in the precup
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The one change I would make is to put a precup with a larger internal volume in. This would lower compression exactly where you want it to, thereby reducing peak force attempting to tear your bottom end apart for the power you're making.
Having a multi valve head would be good, although if you want more air, you can simply turn the boost or NOS up to compensate. There's no substitute for lowering compression in the precup
lol, thats a bit odd, a canadian wanting LESS compression.. that compression is what makes our cars start so nice and easy.. ever dealt with any of the other IDI diesels of the same vintage? they SUCK for starting compared to the VW. my datsun pickup for example, it needs the glow plugs to start, even when its at running temperature! same goes for alot of old IDI tractors. and the 6.9/7.3 diesels, all the ones that ive messed with, even at 32*f, they need the plugs cycled like 3 times just to fire. both of those engines were under 20:1 compression also, the VW is up at 24:1.. hell, my VW starts with just the cold start knob, even if the block is barely warm to the touch..
less compression, and we would be limited to a car that we could only drive on days that it will start.. (haha, not really)
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The one change I would make is to put a precup with a larger internal volume in. This would lower compression exactly where you want it to, thereby reducing peak force attempting to tear your bottom end apart for the power you're making.
Having a multi valve head would be good, although if you want more air, you can simply turn the boost or NOS up to compensate. There's no substitute for lowering compression in the precup
Kev brings up a good point about the compression making stuff work. Bumping boost or using NOS isn't an option for some of us. A better flowing head would make more power without messing with the prechamber. Redesigning a prechamber isn't a matter of hit or miss. It is an exercise in engineering. Can we improve it? Yes is the short answer. Testing the results, and then when we get what we want, to make it affordable and recover money that went into the R&D will be near impossible.
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I just figured that most people interested in this head would have plans for it anywhere from crazy up to retarded.
Cold starting if it's 20*C (70ish*F) I wasn't even using the glow plugs, even when my engine had 240k on it
Once the head is steel, it'll be the bottom end that'll become the power limiter; blowing the main caps out, splitting the block, bending rods, bending the crank etc. The lowered compression will lift yet another power limitation. And when I was saying to use a larger volume precup, I was thinking of using a pre existing precup (for example, maybe a GM 6.9/7.3) and matching nozzles for it.
And Kevin, my weather hardly differs from yours at all! A little bit colder on average, but not significantly. Almost identical to Seattle
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I just figured that most people interested in this head would have plans for it anywhere from crazy up to retarded.
Cold starting if it's 20*C (70ish*F) I wasn't even using the glow plugs, even when my engine had 240k on it
Once the head is steel, it'll be the bottom end that'll become the power limiter; blowing the main caps out, splitting the block, bending rods, bending the crank etc. The lowered compression will lift yet another power limitation. And when I was saying to use a larger volume precup, I was thinking of using a pre existing precup (for example, maybe a GM 6.9/7.3) and matching nozzles for it.
And Kevin, my weather hardly differs from yours at all! A little bit colder on average, but not significantly. Almost identical to Seattle
see, i keep forgetting you are on the island, and not mainland canada.. and that might be a decent idea, using a pre-cup from something else, but probably not something as big as a 6.2 or 6.9.. i think those ones would be too big to work with on a 1.6 engine.. we would need something thats only a little bigger than the VW precup, not 3x as big. lol.. because the 6+ litre engines are twice as big as our engines, so they gotta have a pre-cup size that is atleast double the volume of ours. and i dunno if we wanna go that big on the cup..
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Yeah, I suppose the 6.9's would be massive. There's probably something that'll fit though
And I'm not on the island, I'm about half an hour out of Vancouver :)
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Yeah, I suppose the 6.9's would be massive. There's probably something that'll fit though
And I'm not on the island, I'm about half an hour out of Vancouver :)
maybe some nissan 2.2/2.5 precups, or something along those lines..
OR!!
some mercedes precups! people seem set on running merc injectors, so lets get some merc precups in an engine too..
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the merc 2.2 would be a nice fit, with very little mods needed.
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Merc Precups would be the only way Id run an IDI when this one goes tits up. The Merc precups screw in from the top so there is no worry of them falling into the pistons and destroying your engine.
Press in precups on the cylinder head deck is just stupid.
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i am wondering more and more how necessary a steel head would be, look at powered by spearco hes doing 200whp with out nitrous no head problems, same with daves franken engine, no head issues unless you count the precup that melted into the piston, but thats an injector issue. the other thing too is if there is going to be a 1.9 head made from iron or steel, its going to cost alot, no matter what its going to be expensive, so modifying it in anyway is going to jack that price up, alot. i think the best thing would be to have an aaz head professionally ported and then have that head used for making the castings. the swirl chambers are not an issue on these engines, and the injectors are not either, why change those things. k.i.s.s.
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i am wondering more and more how necessary a steel head would be, look at powered by spearco hes doing 200whp with out nitrous no head problems, same with daves franken engine, no head issues unless you count the precup that melted into the piston, but thats an injector issue. the other thing too is if there is going to be a 1.9 head made from iron or steel, its going to cost alot, no matter what its going to be expensive, so modifying it in anyway is going to jack that price up, alot. i think the best thing would be to have an aaz head professionally ported and then have that head used for making the castings. the swirl chambers are not an issue on these engines, and the injectors are not either, why change those things. k.i.s.s.
well, the iron head lets us run ~80 psi..
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i suppose that would be interesting haha. i wonder how much is even reasonably possible, sure cummins and power jokes can do 1000hp or w/e but they are 5-6 times the displacement, how ever they do only rev at half the speed our engines do, so i suppose the amount of air they move in n/a form is only around double what ours would be, so with an iron head maybe 4-500hp is reasonable
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i suppose that would be interesting haha. i wonder how much is even reasonably possible, sure cummins and power jokes can do 1000hp or w/e but they are 5-6 times the displacement, how ever they do only rev at half the speed our engines do, so i suppose the amount of air they move in n/a form is only around double what ours would be, so with an iron head maybe 4-500hp is reasonable
my sentiments exactly, that is the general plan. stay simple. aaz print, cast, done. you want porting, get it done, you want different chambers get it done., the head can thus be welded no problem, and machined, as well so anything will be possible once this thing goes through. plus there will be the possibility to tinker later, "for the more serious demons" for whatever they can afford. The object is to get the most for less, which means keep it simple. and VERY stock.
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looks like we need to build 2 different heads..
a stock AAZ idi head
and a performance 16v TDI head. too bad we couldnt use the 16v head and put fuel injectors in the spark plug holes..
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lets do it, I see no reason why we IDI guys should keep all of the fun for ourselves. 8)
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well, TDI is alot easier to machine. theres no swirl-chamber..
and we honestly wouldnt even need glow plugs for such a hot rod head..
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When do we do this? I want to get started right away.
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I'd be pretty pumped about the idea of a TDI head to do an mTDI swap on my AAZ....
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I'd be pretty pumped about the idea of a TDI head to do an mTDI swap on my AAZ....
bolt a TDI head on it then... AAZ and early TDI are the same engine block.. just gotta change the AAZ pistons to TDI pistons. and use a TDI head of course.
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Well I realize that, but they're $1200 new (there's one new one in NJ still ;) ), and I haven't been able to source a decent used one locally yet. However, if there's discussion being had about a performance head, and it's comparable to a new head, or refurbishing a junkyard head with an unknown history, I would strongly consider it.
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i imagine these heads are going to cost $2-3k in all reality when all is said and done..
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*shrug* I'm still watching with interest.
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Bump for an update?
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its not gonna happen..
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My butt, I am willing and ready with my "very" printable head. I refuse to give up. The K.I.S.S method is def. the way to go, there has just got to be a tdi blown up somewhere that screams "print me!" I am going to ecology this weekend to hopefully procure a "new" motor for my cracked, for a second time, bmw e36. I need some info about the said desireable tdi head. If I find one I will undoubtedly pull and buy it. I need the contact info on a good bechflow porting service to send them off to. From there I need them sent to someone to dissect and print the heads, or to a magic caster personnages. I at least owe it to the interested parties to have "professionaly ported and benchflowed" heads available so that it makes it worth the money. The new heads can be welded or machined easily to accomodate any further desireable mods, and if the job is good enough and we can generate enough interest, then there will be heads enough for anyone and everyone. I would be willing to bet that despite his reputation prothe, may be willing or perhaps able to take this on. I a currently in heated negotiations with a gentleman from vietnam. My Vietnamese is poor and his english is as well, but our correspondance is going well and I am well acquainted with his family. Buk, "the guy's name" is willing to take almost anything right now, as the economy is poor, and although production costs are low there, no one is buying, and he is welcome to any buuisness at this point. I need to free up some funds, and as of now I may be forced to leave the military after 9 years of faithful sevice due to the economy and defence cuts. I need to sell my crap and be ready to move on, but I give my word I will not let this go. BTW my wife, Atsuko turned 37 today, and I have discovered the secret to smoky yunick's "Hot Vapor" engine. no joke.
For the time being, I work 15+ hour days, I just got off work, I DO NOT get paid overtime. I need a by name and qty list of heads desired, so that I can continue negotiations.
thank you to all parties concerned,
Sgt Kevin A. Davies, USMC
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Not only the IDI forum but the TDI forum im CERTAIN would hold great interest in this. As well as other forums.
In theory, you could make a monster of a machine with this head and appropriate fastners. I think the weakpoint would then be the rods...
I strongly believe there is a client base for this idea. One day, my 1990 will be recycled at which point i will be definitely interested in a TDI and I LOVE the alh engine.
I would be interested in the future (<5 years) i just cant commit at the moment.
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I want to do this, primarily because of the love of the community here, and partially because I want to experiment with my own precup design, and some other technological advancements that I have concieved to improve emmissions, and MPG, as well as power. I am eventually planning to pursue mechanical engineering, however, right now it is just a pipe dream. I have some dramatic Ideas about IDI that will completely change the way that people will percieve diesel. Since the diesel model is the closest native to an adiabatic model, which is my ultimate goal, I want to use this model to achieve what others could not. Besides, maybe my hard work will inspire an innovation of a different kind.
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Just posting so that no one will think I died, and left you all to hope and dream for a steel head for which to wet dream about. A couple of things, at which point will the aluminum head really melt down? Can a camshaf remap change this? AKA very little overlap, the reasoning is this, if timing can be changed due to a better precup design then more overlap is unnecessary, this is because the engine will be more efficient as the vaporization of diesel will act as a cooling action "see: evap cooling 101" as much a the combustion therof will act as a heating action. This will necessitate the use of a more heat ductile metal. I also wondered about the valves themselves? Can the valve design be changed slightly to allow for angled valves? This aides cars racing in the nascar circuit, and I surmise that with proper planning, and the use of some truly unique valves, "like the vr-6, flat on one side", a high static compression and high flow can be esily achieved. Once again this is just a pipe dream here. The design of the swirl chamber is so that a jetlike force will be present both creating a vacuum in the swirl chamber, and forcing the flamefront out of the nozzle like a rocket nozzle would. It also creates an "eye" if you would, in the very epicenter of the swirl allowing for more air that is not properly heated or mixed to move into and freely out of the chamber, "will work best will dual stage injection." The compression can safely be lowered with the use of a larger swirl chamber "screw in design" with little detriment to performance, it will only truly show it's true colors when forced induction is applied. I plan to implement a diesel vaporization system, upon which I will expound, to aide in combustion, lower emmissions and give better fuel economy and power. high fuelinjection pressures would not be neccessary, "perfect for mechanical operation, and the system itself is not overly complicated, and does not require electrical expertise. "ex. ultrasonic vaporization" this vaporization process occurs after pressurization and before injection into the swirl chamber, interesting huh. Hopefully this will make cold starts a cinch. Stll need more proof? Think I'm just a madscientist?, I simply borrowed a page from Smokey Yunick's book on adiabatic engine building. I figured out the secret of his motor, I am currently woking on a system which will give petrol or gas cars double the fuel economy by using a very simple principle. I should be done by the new year, I'll post some pics of course. I have been scraching my head for ideas to implement the same principles to our engines and I think I have it. The interesting thing is that the mechanical injection systems will benefit the most from it, it doubles effective output pressure from the injector, vaporizes fuel and of course different braking pressures "higher" will have to be used. PM me for more details.
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(http://i585.photobucket.com/albums/ss298/NintendoKD/dieseladiabatic.jpg?t=1325065637)
yellow is engine coolant
blue is ambient air
black is engine exhaust
gonna give alla mah secrets away
1962 shell oil built a 59' opel TRACK CAR that got 376 MPG real history, not a joke, weighed 2500 LBS, no cooling fan, and everything was heat wrapped. opelp1 experimental look it up if ya dunnah believe me. My principals are crazy, but they work.
What happens when you have sex in a car??? I'll give you a hint, vapor is built up inside. The colder air outside causes the "vapor" to condense. Now we all know hat liquid fuel doesn't burn well, quite the opposite in fact, but a vapor, now were talkin. THE ICE is percieved all wrong, it is nothing more than a heat pump, and what makes the diesel different is that some of that heat is used to perform work, but still most of it is wasted simply vented out into the blue yonder.
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You see, I believe that efficiency can be gained not from cold air but from hot air, for turbocharged application a great magnitude of difference, especially those utilizing the VNT's for reasons which I will outline at a different date. for the same reason that you don't want anyone to know you are knocking boots in your car is the same reason that you don't want cold air in your motor. cold air "CONDENSES VAPOR" vapor burns, not liquid fuel, see where I am going wth this now? you might think that I am wrong, well we will just see about that when you are making about 2.2HP per cubic inch, if my math is correct, and it may very well may be, I have been letting my magnificent brains go to mush for 8 long years in the Fantastic United States Marine Corps.
Enjoy,
Kevin
P.S. I don't suffer from insanity, I enjoy every minute of it.
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you wanted my input?
i dont like it..
too complicated..
wheres the twin turbos?
if i cant decide what the drawing is, then its too complicated..
and i will be one of the last people running one.
i didnt like the adibatic design, nor any of the other ones. you are trying to re-invent the wheel.
WE wanted a steel head that could be cheaply and easily reproduced.
YOU wanted to go so far fetched on the build, that nobody will ever be able to afford one..
is this even about a steel head anymore? i havent heard anything about a steel head in a VERY long time.
and my brain hurts from reading those posts..
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Yeah yeah, steel head is coming, relax, just got really excited, and wanted to share a unique design that I had. This, the steel head, will all depend on wether or not I get out of the military in Sept of next year or not, I don't exactly have a job lined up, and don't have any college. Since I am fronting the cash for the initial of this venture, I hope that no one will complain. The object is affordability here, nothing less. The adiabatic design is nonetheless cool, will increase power, fuel economy, and lower emissions. I also admit that I am no artist, no one can ever accuse me of otherwise.
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Ok, so seriously now back to the topic at hand. ;)Believe it or not, the plumbing and what haveyou will certainly fit beneath the hood, even on a twicharged system, but I understand your sentiment. I am still working on that, I have a contact that will do it, and 3-d print the head, he has even agreed to do some cleanup, and make a few neccessary changes, because of the material difference. The initial head will cost about 5k, after that, I take all of the data cllected, and the finishd head, as well as the print information, and the old crosss sectioned al. head, and send them of to a foundry in Vietnam. There the child laborers will sweat the rest, LOL. Seriously though, out the door cost should be around 250 per person, for a finished head, no after shipping finishing at a machinist. Just put your cam, valves, and lifters in, and off you go. his place will install the valve guides, which they manufacture at their facility. They use casting, with a unique twist, which improves reliability, but also keeps costs down, the gentleman there has told me that this teel is unusual to make a cyl. head from, and asked why, when I told him he was surprised to learn that no one in America would help me for a reasonable cost. Quote: "I thought that that is what Americans did?" Hope you guys enjoy it when It's finished.
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I always think about cold-hot or warm air,which is better in which conditions/temp.Heck I have adjustable front plate (greel?) just to rise temp fast even in summer.
But for steel head mmmmmmmmm.Wish you happy in projects.
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but wont high temps air leave small place to oxigen?
allways tought the colder the air the better...
cold induction kits,intercoolers and so on...
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I think so,but too cold air maybe cool combustions temp,how cold it can be for that?
I also think my alt fuel has less combustions temp than D.
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Ports on the same side?
I'd start there. No amount of fancy heat exchanging deals are worth it when you're still heating up intake air...
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how can the cost end up being just 250 a piece? i could see them doing the casting for less than that, but its going to take a *** load of money to do all the machining, i mean u gotta make the valve guide holes, make all the cam bearing cap areas, bore out the cam bearings, machine the lifter bores, surface the head, install and grind the valve seats, i was thinking these heads would be in the thousands of dollars to have produced, especially with the cost of them making the first molds and experimenting with all the shrink rates
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The guy has a foundry in Viet Nam Gam Ahn! ;D The manufacturing costs are going to be minimal because he runs a small operation that is mostly family owned and operated, he produces bearings valve guides, etc. and also does tool and die in the same shop. They are one of the few to have a very nice CNC and have a drop forge on premesis. The family also owns and operates a salvage and scrap operation which does some small steel manufacture for sale abroad. I got REALLY lucky, this guy is a total gear head, and he is interested in what I am doing, I need to find him a 1.6 for him to play with, he is interested and totally agrees that IDI is superior, as they have many of these older engines in Nam, he knows that the technology hasn't caught up to reuse the IDI. I just caught a lucky break. ;)
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but wont high temps air leave small place to oxigen?
allways tought the colder the air the better...
cold induction kits,intercoolers and so on...
Realistically, how much more oxygen in cold air rather than warm? Think about this, have sex in a car, windows fog up, why??? You make VAPOR in the car the cold air touches the vapor and what happens it condenses... Now pay attention, if liquid diesel/petrol doesn't burn, and we all know that then why on earth would we want to put cold air in our motors? cold air plus semi-vapor diesel/atomized diesel=??? I'll tell you, very simple, it CONDENSES! DUH! ::) once again, Why on Gods green earth would we want cold air in our engines? the vaporization serves two purposes, it takes heat from the engine "it is using the otherwise wasted heat" remember the engine or ICE is nothing more than an overglorified HEAT PUMP!! it also increases power because of mixing and better stoichiometry, as well as improves economy, because you are using less fuel, and is better for the environment, no cat required and very little if any NOX emmissions. There are some holes left in the designs here, I cannot give all of my secrets away, but just pm me and I will rest all of your fears away. Instead of adding more air + more fuel to give more power with more waste, why not increase the efficiency of the air and fuel that you are already using, think about it, It's like trying to use a sledgehammer to put a thumbtack into a cork board, just plain wasteful and you are more liable to break something, no need for fancy rods pistons etc. with my system. I really should start my own thread for this subect. :-[ sorry
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Ports on the same side?
I'd start there. No amount of fancy heat exchanging deals are worth it when you're still heating up intake air...
(see post above), cold air helps TO A POINT, but only goes so far, every automotive engineer can tell you that. Besides, the cold air coming in is used to cool the motor, hence the heat exchanger in the diagram.
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BTW I started learning Vietnamese for this project, so now I can thank VWdiesel for pushing me to learn a new language. 8)
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i have a head that is scrap in cylinder 3
(http://a4.ec-images.myspacecdn.com/images02/130/ad462188ad4644a7955c1f28c95f16b3/l.jpg)
My car died and was very well ported. If he could use it for a reference then I would hope you could give me the steel version for helping. The 3rd precup area is trash, but if he could reverse engineer it from #2 and what is there then we could all get a head that flows like my chart below as cast no porting required AND I wouldn't feel like this head was a total loss :D
(http://a2.ec-images.myspacecdn.com/images02/21/d32b370c5d4d44c5950378f28ea121a6/l.jpg)
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Well, I really do not need the head right now, but hold on to it. I may need to take some measurements from it for the print. I have also been pondering DMLS, looks like a promising technology, but I will need to do some more research. As much as I want to keep the price down and demand up, I also want to keep it American made, and keep from outsourcing the work. If I can find someone here in the states, I will do it here, even if that means paying a little more.
thanks,
Kevin
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Well, I really do not need the head right now, but hold on to it. I may need to take some measurements from it for the print. I have also been pondering DMLS, looks like a promising technology, but I will need to do some more research. As much as I want to keep the price down and demand up, I also want to keep it American made, and keep from outsourcing the work. If I can find someone here in the states, I will do it here, even if that means paying a little more.
thanks,
Kevin
I don't see the point of being too picky about having American made parts for german cars.........at least the quality should be good though.
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As long as you get good metal (which is the problem over there is if they do it cheap its because its made of recycled Pontiac Grand AMs...and those are 98% plastic) and have the CNC set up right it shouldnt matter what the machinist speaks.
I see this happening the same as I see a 3rd viable party in our politics.
Keep trying though.
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there is no such thing as political parties, they were invented yo divide the public and make it easier to control them. What s important are the issues, and the real issue is that our government is too powerful, and not powerful enough at the same time; but that s off of the subject at hand. I will succeed, PERIOD! ;)
met "over the phone" today a fantastic gentleman who used to have Jay Lenno hang out in his shop in his teenies, guy is WAAAAY knowledgeable, and is helping me out in a few things. The main thing is that he is an awesome guy, with a TON of knowledge of old cars etc. He still does some machining, I have to soften him up to the idea, but he isn't against it. Located up in southern Maine, goes by Ben. I ended up meeting him via the zephyr v12 forum I moonlight on.
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Still interested, but make it quick
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So, if this becomes a reality, what becomes the next weakest link in these engines? Suppose we have a head that will not warp, a Giles super pump that will provide more than enough fuel, compound turbo's to ensure enough air gets in there, girdles to keep the bottom end from flexing.....
What's next? Is this the next step towards a somewhat reliable 300hp? Maybe I'm dreaming, but this could be a weekend tinkerers dream come true ;D
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So, if this becomes a reality, what becomes the next weakest link in these engines? Suppose we have a head that will not warp, a Giles super pump that will provide more than enough fuel, compound turbo's to ensure enough air gets in there, girdles to keep the bottom end from flexing.....
What's next? Is this the next step towards a somewhat reliable 300hp? Maybe I'm dreaming, but this could be a weekend tinkerers dream come true ;D
time to start taco'n some rods..
i want 80psi boost.. i think that will do the trick.
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just keep beefing up the last part that failed until we end up tossing an engine through the hood? I like it ;D
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it would be kinda cool to see an engine siht the crank out the bottom... not gonna lie.
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I'm there with you, destruction is fascinating. As long as the root cause can be determined it's a learning experience.
So where's Nintendo on this little project?
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The next step, obviously, is you let the clutch out and your transmission disembowels itself. :P
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Can anyone name another engine with a 41xx series or 43xx cast steel cylinder head? I certainly can't. If you don't have a LOT of experience in the foundry and machine shop businesses, you may not quite understand just how difficult this proposition is.
You cannot forge a cylinder head like the VW IDI head. They must be cast. Without a tremendously sophisticated effort (major $$$ and a lot of potential volume), you cannot "reverse engineer" a usable mold and set of cores from an existing cylinder head. This is not "mom and pop" shop stuff. You would need access to the original patterns, or VW engineering drawings if you want to have a usable end product.
I'm not saying that it can't be done, but I know enough about manufacturing to know that what Nintendo has been dreaming about will take a lot more resources than an enthusiastic dreamer and a mom & pop fab shop in Vietnam.
That's my 2 cent dose of reality.
SteveM.
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we need to build a head thats multi-piece, and has an iron or steel deck, with an aluminum rocker assembly
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I agree it's mostly a dream I kind of wish andy2 would shed some light on the process. Anyways at my work one of the ventilators we sell has a bezel that breaks very easily the manufacturer is no longer supplying a lot of these types of parts so were having a local guy who prides himself in casting lots of one off and low quantity things. He's been working on our mold for months now doing tons of little tweaks to accommodate shrinkage and small details and this is for just for basically a picture frame shapes pierce of metal with a few tabs on it. Imagine a head with 8 ports in it the whole valve train area and the water jackets. Then once all that is made u gotta have the cam journal and caps all machined the valve cover sealing surface valve guid holes lifter bores valve seat prechamber glow plug hole and head surface all machined and I know I'm forgetting a few things it's a big job especially for a limited market like ours to make it worth anyone's time they'd have to cost a fortune
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I agree it's mostly a dream I kind of wish andy2 would shed some light on the process. Anyways at my work one of the ventilators we sell has a bezel that breaks very easily the manufacturer is no longer supplying a lot of these types of parts so were having a local guy who prides himself in casting lots of one off and low quantity things. He's been working on our mold for months now doing tons of little tweaks to accommodate shrinkage and small details and this is for just for basically a picture frame shapes pierce of metal with a few tabs on it. Imagine a head with 8 ports in it the whole valve train area and the water jackets. Then once all that is made u gotta have the cam journal and caps all machined the valve cover sealing surface valve guid holes lifter bores valve seat prechamber glow plug hole and head surface all machined and I know I'm forgetting a few things it's a big job especially for a limited market like ours to make it worth anyone's time they'd have to cost a fortune
im sure andy2s CAST IRON TDI HEAD was alot easier to machine..
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Easier sure but it still needs the same amount of machining
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casting iron is 100,000% different from forging steel..
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Can they even forge a cylinder head? It would need 10 times the machine work. Why would we want forged over cast?
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pretty sure his plan was to forge the head..
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I cannot envision any way to forge a cylinder head for one of these engines. There is no way to forge an internal passage in such a complex shape.
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@ jetmugg, "the only thing that is possible is the impossible" ;)
I am planning on having it cast, not necessarily 34/30 but steel or iron, I want to avoid thermal expansion to prevent from cracking the precups, and causing valve seats from going bye bye. and yes, I am still on this one. I am at a transitioning phase in my life, The budget crisis hit the Marine Corps hard, I may not be allowed to stay in, and right now the welfare of my family "my job security" comes first. I'll let you all know of any changes.
God bless, Semper Fi,
Sgt Kevin A. Davies, USMC
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A bit of info for the doubters, and some support for Nin. I have a business contact that can get anything copied in China. For example, how about MANN, Bosch, oil filters copied to the exact metallurgy of the can and even the exact amount of folds of filter media. I would only cost me one container, or 5k us to have these done. In other words, all I would have to do is buy 5k in product, oh, how much would be my cost??? 60 us cents a piece. I can also get Garrett turbos copied, not the cheap knockoffs you see on line, but balanced and with all of the proper casting and materials, these can be had for about $250.00. Of course I would have to buy minimums, but the main point is ANYTHING you want copied, you can get it in the BIG C.
Now as far as the head, it can be done, absolutely, but you need volume to get it done, the Chinese thinking is different than the West, if you go to them and ask to have something copied as a one off project, they will look at you like you are nuts, but talk volume they will throw the r&d in for free. I think a better solution for the head is a steel billet girdle and set screws/pins for the prechambers, you could even machine the prechamber areas to beef them up, and then re machine for new prechambers. Anyway just a viewpoint from the bleachers, oh and I don't know anything about Vietnam, but I have no reason to doubt that this project could be done.
BlauMaultier
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My input is just from the viewpoint of a metallurgical engineer, who has spent plenty of years in steel mills, foundries, and machine shops.
From my viewpoint, it is extremely beneficial to understand the "in's and out's" of making good castings or forgings, and the sometimes subtle differences between alloys, in terms of not only the final properties, but also in terms of the ease of making the part.
If you are looking for unsolicited advice, you will save yourself a lot of grief and money by using a conventional casting alloy, whether an aluminum alloy or one of about 100 cast iron grades.
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A bit of info for the doubters, and some support for Nin. I have a business contact that can get anything copied in China. For example, how about MANN, Bosch, oil filters copied to the exact metallurgy of the can and even the exact amount of folds of filter media. I would only cost me one container, or 5k us to have these done. In other words, all I would have to do is buy 5k in product, oh, how much would be my cost??? 60 us cents a piece.
I can get the German filters for $4.50 a piece. I'm lucky in that I can get a lot of parts for wholesale prices but still, I'm not that cheap. These motors are not easy to find and aren't cheap to rebuild. I'm going to stick with trusted brands. While I do believe they can produce the same quality as a Bosch or Garett product, where I have my doubts is if they will do so consistently over time, or if the quality will decline once you stop actively monitoring their operations.
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we need to build a head thats multi-piece, and has an iron or steel deck, with an aluminum rocker assembly
x2
I would like to hear more about this idea.
And we need more valves. ;D
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we need to build a head thats multi-piece, and has an iron or steel deck, with an aluminum rocker assembly
x2
I would like to hear more about this idea.
And we need more valves. ;D
And a cross-flowing head design. :D
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Well this idea seems to be dead in the water....3 years later lol