VWDiesel.net The IDI, TDI, and mTDI source.
General Information => General => Topic started by: 8v-of-fury on June 25, 2010, 08:40:05 pm
-
for me to dump some cash in to my rock'n'rolla 81. ;D
(http://i299.photobucket.com/albums/mm307/J_holubek/Random/100_0166.jpg)
(yeah my picture stitching sucks, shutup) lol
What I have so far on the list is this;
- Need to do a HG
- Was looking at either stock non-stretch normal 11mm bolts.. or finding some ok used 11mm studs.
- Want to do a rubber valve cover gasket as well, anyone know where I can find the stud kit in Canada?
- New oil drain plug as the old one is FUBAR'd.
- Oil change, trying to decide weather to 1: do a flush 2: switch to a synthetic..?
- I want to do the suspension for sure, as rusty springs with coils broken off and shot struts, with verrry loose front end is WAY NO FUN TO DRIVE.
- I've already got KYB gas rear struts, plan on getting KYB fronts as well.
- I will be using good quality strut mounts as well, Bilstein.
- Got tie rods, ball joints, and new control arms on the list.
- What do you guys suggest I do for springs?? I really do not want to spend $80 a spring if i do not have too.. find somebody local that just did a coil over swap? lol
- I have seen these kits of red poly bushings to replace pretty much every rubber bushing in the car, but i can't seem to find them.. anyone know where I can get them in Canada as well? or for at least not to much from wherever? (which engine mounts are bad to have poly mounts on a diesel? Front and back? or sides?)
I am completely comfortable with the amount of power of the 1.6 N/a for now, and power mods can wait. I need to make this car safe, and a bomb to drive. Then power will come. What are your guys thoughts on all of this please! what would you change about what I want to do and why. Your views are very welcome.
Also I need to do a clutch, I want it to be street-able and inexpensive. But have moderate clamping pressure, as this engine will not ever see much power. Unless I decide to turbo it and drive it to its grave. :P I have seen a wide variety of mix matching parts. Whats the best to go with? and from who?
thanks a lot guys. I Needa Spend Some Ched. ;)
-
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/75-84-VW-Rabbit-Prothane-Suspension-Bushings-Kit-MK1-1-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem45f17a0ea8QQitemZ300404051624QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories (http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/75-84-VW-Rabbit-Prothane-Suspension-Bushings-Kit-MK1-1-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem45f17a0ea8QQitemZ300404051624QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories)
This guy wanted $36 to ship to me.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=360275450307 (http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=360275450307)
This link has free shipping to me.......and is in the mail now ;D........the picture is mk2 stuff.
http://store.blackforestindustries.com/suspension.html (http://store.blackforestindustries.com/suspension.html) sell it too, they also sell control arms with prothane's installed.
I've been looking around and it sounds like some people like the motor mount inserts and others don't and some like the rear mount and others don't.
Overall for a diesel I think the suspension stuff is the main reason to get the kit, you'll also save money and if you want try the engine mounts for your own amusement ;D.
-
http://store.blackforestindustries.com/suspension.html (http://store.blackforestindustries.com/suspension.html) sell it too, they also sell control arms with prothane's installed.
If you buy this stuff separately you'll get a better deal and not have to deal with BFI.
-
Never dealt w/ BFI, but the total kit is a waaaay better deal than getting each thing separate.
-
thanks Rabbitman, for that info. Gladly appreciate it! :)
Will be getting the kit from MI i think.. I guess there all the same right? lol
I have an 84 with good springs all around, so what I was thinking of doing.. was just taking pretty much every piece of suspension from it. Take the rear axle off, as it will be needed to put poly bushings in and doing the rear struts abd poly mounts for them as well, and then take every thing from the front and swap it over. (axles, control arms as mine are bent, knuckles, strut cartridges and swap in new mounts and struts) On the control arms I will be doing the poly's and new bj's. Also will be doing new tie rods, not just ends as they are god knows how many miles on them.. and there the same price for the end or the whole rod anyway.. so replace it all. After doing all this I should theoretically have a completely new car underneath, yes?
-
Never dealt w/ BFI, but the total kit is a waaaay better deal than getting each thing separate.
I just meant the control arms and cab's, the total kit is a bargain but there are probably cheaper places to get it than bfi, and then you don't have to bring bfi the business.
-
In the for sale section, gtidiesel1.6 has some 11mm head studs.
He's on your side of the border too.
There has to be a decent nut&bolt store up there that sells 6mmx30mm strait studs. I can get them for you with allenhead recess in top (nice perk) for $2 usd set of 8, plus envelope postage.
Or i could price a box of 100 and put you in business as the canadian valve cover stud kit man / go-to-guy.
You 'could' grind the shoulders off some old ones on a bench grinder - if you had too. But ..... uggh
-
Doesn't Victor Reniz offer the valve cover gasket with the studs? I'm pretty sure that's the brand I've been getting.. Don;t have anything around with the P/N at the moment..
-
I'm not sure Max.
Around a year or so ago - Vince Waldon offered a VicReinz rubber VC gasket that had studs included. But don't know if he tossed them in there with it as a bonus - or if they were factory included.
I've bought 4 VicReinz rubbers so far - none came with studs.
Could be a "special" part number to order that comes with studs.
Someone call VWaldon and get the verdict.
-
There could be a place that sells cup point socket set screws in a m6-1.0x30mm. These would work awesome and have the hex drive BVZ is talking about.
-
Around a year or so ago - Vince Waldon offered a VicReinz rubber VC gasket that had studs included. But don't know if he tossed them in there with it as a bonus - or if they were factory included.
The kit I had was a genuine Victor Reinz and it came with the studs.... sounds like perhaps they sell two different kits.. a "starter" kit and a "replacement" kit?
Here's a sample from eBay... claims to be a Reinz and it has the studs:
http://cgi.ebay.ca/VW-Dasher-Fox-Golf-Valve-Cover-Gasket-Set-79-81-85-93-/270589380425?cmd=ViewItem&pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3f00624749 (http://cgi.ebay.ca/VW-Dasher-Fox-Golf-Valve-Cover-Gasket-Set-79-81-85-93-/270589380425?cmd=ViewItem&pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3f00624749)
-
The ones i get w/o studs are VictorR # 71-31691-00
AhausAZ # 051 103 483A @ $10
Local bigboxpartstores are about $14 for same.
The one on eBay lists part # 026 198 025C
so... that "might not" be a VictorR number you can take to a parts counter and order with. fwiw
Would be good to have the verified VictorR part number for the VC/Stud package to pass along as people inquire.
-
According to their website the Victor Reinz part number for the version *with* studs is 15-31692-01.
-
myke_w sells the rubber gasket w/ studs........if he's still selling stuff anyways.
-
I had the poly stuff in my old mk1 rabbit TD. I started out with replacing each bushing by bushing to see what i would tolerate after a few months on my daily. I used all the suspension stuff and what a difference, i recommend using all the suspension stuff for sure.
I first did the nose stub mount thingy. Great improvement in clutch grab/feel, high rpm shifting felt tighter.
I took it out and threw in the stock one and the rear tranny mount that is under the car. Had the same feeling as the stub mount, only downside was in reverse the dash would really shake, it died down after awhile but still noticeable which wasn't a concern to me since you aren't driving constantly in reverse.
The mount inserts for the side mounts were my least favorite, i put them both in, no noticeable improvement in performance, bad shakes and vibrations at idle. Left them out and just put new oem bushings in. Never tried it with all 4 bushings in.
So I only used the stub and the bottom trans mount, along with new oem side bushings it was great to daily, slight more vibration at idle then stock, my girlfriend didn't even notice and she is usually picky with squeaks/rattles/noises/etc.
-
http://store.blackforestindustries.com/suspension.html (http://store.blackforestindustries.com/suspension.html) sell it too, they also sell control arms with prothane's installed.
If you buy this stuff separately you'll get a better deal and not have to deal with BFI.
Not dealing with BFI is a big plus if you are a Canadian
-
Hey what's the big deal with BFI anyways, I've heard a lot about them (mostly on this site) and it's all been totally negative. I've never dealt with 'em so I'm not biased, just curious.
-
They only ship UPS. What that means as a Canadian is when your $80 order arrives it will come with a $50 "customs/made up UPS fees" on top of that. What seemed like fair prices suddenly become very expensive.
I had no problem with the parts I ordered though, everything went well.
-
Hey what's the big deal with BFI anyways, I've heard a lot about them (mostly on this site) and it's all been totally negative. I've never dealt with 'em so I'm not biased, just curious.
I'm sure what burn your money said about the shipping is true for our neighbors to the north but the reason I don't like them is the way they've ripped off some designs/products from entrepreneurial enthusiasts and marketed them as their own. When this came up on vortex speaking in a negative way about bfi produced a strong response from the mods because bfi is a big site sponsor. I guess it's sort of silly internet politics but that kind of behavior bothers me so I don't support them and encourage others to do same. The only thing they make that I'd ever be interested in are the rear caddy coilovers but I have to wonder where the design came from and if the designer was properly compensated, all the rest of their "products" are available through other sources.
-
I will gladly boycott BFI. :P
I hate companies that do what they do (ie. steal ideas without proper reimbursement). I will not support them at all as a mega-conglomeration.
So I just did my taxes, yeah a month late.. ;) Seems the Gov of Canada owes me quite a large sum of money. :D
Sawedoffgolf, thanks for the reply man! Yeah I will be definitely getting the poly set, and trying out all the engine mounts for sure. I am mainly wanting the kit to make the car handle like its on rails. I figure this kit along with new bj's and tie rods and it should pretty much eliminate any play in the front end, and possibly the rear beam.. by replacing the beam bushings and rear shock mounts too. Hopefully.
Now I run in to the fact that I need a new suspension all around.. New struts up front, shocks in the rear, and springs at all four corners.. Do I
A) Go OEM, and replace it all with OEM springs and sachs struts and shocks??
B) Go OEM+, and replace it with OEM springs, and an upgraded gas strut? such as KYB or the likes?
C) Go Coil-overs.. Not something I have really looked in to AT ALL.. However maybe it is a route I would like to go.. I would probably only rock an inch drop if that, not in the BASH the oil pan of every bump area...
With the OEM we run in to the problem of Sachs struts/shocks just sucking a lot of the proverbial "you know what".. OEM+ would be a good option but still leaves it to handle like stock.. I really want something I can just RIP around corners! Coil-overs, everyone says ride like complete POO! Now is this because everyone always buys them and runs them at the lowest drop they are designed for?? I plan to run them so the Control arms are near parallel with the ground for best handling (which is about a 3/4"-1" drop I have read, I think). If I go coil-over route, what brand would you suggest for the budget minded who is looking for an ok ride?
The Valvecover gasket does seem like a very viable option, if i could find the correct kit offered local i would grab it, as i cannot see it on the parts site I have an order ready to go with, and don't feel like paying shipping on one part from another site..
So far the list;
Complete suspension
Steering components
Bushings all around
Head gasket and bolts or studs
Valve cover gasket
Swap on the snowflakes
Intake - Cold/Ram Air setup
Exhaust - 2-2.25" DP-Free flowing muffler
Gauges - EGT/Water/Oil
Governor Mod (ohhh yeahh)
I was just thinking today how so many lucky people have successfully pulled these cars out of barns to make them awesome drivers, this is my Barn-to-Daily VW! I pulled it out of a barn last October and started driving it this April!! its been awesome to drive a diesel!
Thoughts PLEASE!! ;) :D ;D
-
I have a similar problem with suspension. I don't want to run coils as none of the coils I have looked at advertise stock ride height. Every vortex thread on this ends up saying that if you slam these cars or even lower a little the handling goes away porportionally to how far you get away from stock ride height. I think what I will do when the jetta needs it is the Bilsteen sport or HD. I forget which one I liked the specs on best but I think that is the route to go. There are some coilovers I would love to try, but I can't ever get an answer on tallest setting only lowest.
Definately do the head studs, intake, exhaust, and Gov mod. You will like it.
-
In regards to the BFI issue I think it would be fair to read the thread on vortex if it didn't get black holed. Initially when it was posted I was on the boycott BFI bandwagon but then as more details came out about the specific incident I was swayed off the wagon.
Basically as I read and understood it there was a user on vortex who was supplying BFI with front cross braces. BFI said that he had become unreliable and there was also a quality control issue for a while (the user resolved it). BFI got fed up and starting making the braces in house. The user got mad that they were stealing his idea and made a post about it. In that post it was brought up that about 5 years ago he had posted asking for dimensions on the brace that at that time someone else was making and selling. No one had exclusive rights to the product so as I see it, all's fair. I feel that it was implied in BFIs responses that they would have continued to purchase the braces off the seller had he not become unreliable.
That's just my take on the matter, I would recommend reading the thread when it comes back and drawing your own conclusion.
-
Good day dearest forum people,
How do you guys feel about Bilsteins? I was thinking of maybe going with there Sport line as there Heavy Duty line is a tad outta my rice range. However, how do you feel about their Touring line? OR what I kinda want to do is go with KYB Gas-a-Just so that I can also budget in new springs. As I don't really need to be able to get in to any more trouble.. :P I already whip it around pretty quickly with a recockulously worn suspension.. a really tight one will for sure mean trouble ;D
I think doing a completely new everything (under the car) will help substantially to make this car more fun to drive. I will be most certainly doing something along the lines of intake and exhaust this weekend, if I can source some cheap pipe for the exhaust. I should be able to get the intake opened up no problem though as I like the way you did yours Lucas :)
Tyler, back on topic here please :) However I do recall the thread turning out that way, I was reading it from the start as well.. and Vortex definitely covered it up on BFI's part.. deleting any evidence that the user even existed (yup deleting his account), and then denying it happened when confronted about it.. however it was wrong to do so.. they user openly admitted to having no patent on the design, and to stealing measurements years prior to make what he sold to BFI.. Kinda had it coming to him didn't he? ;)
oh Well!
-
I wouldn't waste time going with stock suspension, springs yes, shocks and struts never.
I've been drooling over the biltein HD's too, Partsgeek is the cheapest I've found.
I'd definitely recommend getting the poly bushings. Mine came yesterday and last night I put on just the control arm bushings and steering rack mounts and I can already tell that it's waaaay better! The kit I got came with rear axle beam bushings, upper rear shock mounts, drivers side engine mount insert and front and rear engine mounts.
Part number for the kit is 22-2008
My control arms are parallel with the ground right now but I don't think I ever lowered it ???.
Have FUN!!!!!!!!! 8)
-
How about Koni Special D Reds??
http://www.raceinspired.com/p-16484-koni-special-d-red-shocks-volkswagen-jetta-1979-1993-front.aspx (http://www.raceinspired.com/p-16484-koni-special-d-red-shocks-volkswagen-jetta-1979-1993-front.aspx)
http://www.raceinspired.com/p-16487-koni-special-d-red-shocks-volkswagen-jetta-1979-1993-rear.aspx (http://www.raceinspired.com/p-16487-koni-special-d-red-shocks-volkswagen-jetta-1979-1993-rear.aspx)
Also what is better Twin tube hydraulic? or Twin tube gas struts? And what springs would you recommend with these beasts? Just OEM? or what?
I WANT A NEW SUSPENSION SO BADLY
-
blew out another strut yesterday.. that didnt take long. anyone know of any good heavy duty struts for an mk1 that wont blow out on the first bump?and why do mk1s have such crappy bump stops? they should be called bang stops damn it.. cause they bang..
-
anyone know of any good heavy duty struts for an mk1 that wont blow out on the first bump?
Bilstein......and they have an internal bump stop.
-
Alright, alright...8v see if there is a group buy for misc. bilstiens mki and mkii. If so I am in LOL
-
anyone know of any good heavy duty struts for an mk1 that wont blow out on the first bump?
Bilstein......and they have an internal bump stop.
so, when i hit one of these massive pot holes we have around here, it wont make that terrible banging? our county has some of the worst pot holes ive ever seen. what model bilsteins would you suggest? any in particular?
-
probably their touring line, as I assume they would offer the best ride quality.
Anyone ever use the Koni Reds I posted up there?
-
myself, i dont really care about ride quality. im used to driving lifted toyotas. they bounce like no other.. i just want a good strut that wont blow out quite as easy as the stock garbage. sorry for the thread jack jermo.
-
KEvo no worries as I am trying to find struts/shocks myself Bilstein or Koni seems to be the way to go for a good long lasting suspension.
-
You start with a stock intake..
(http://i299.photobucket.com/albums/mm307/J_holubek/Diesel/100_0252.jpg)
You take it apart..
(http://i299.photobucket.com/albums/mm307/J_holubek/Diesel/100_0253.jpg)
(http://i299.photobucket.com/albums/mm307/J_holubek/Diesel/100_0255.jpg)
You cut some ABS (with a saw that is like 50 years old)..
(http://i299.photobucket.com/albums/mm307/J_holubek/Diesel/100_0257.jpg)
You fab it up..
(http://i299.photobucket.com/albums/mm307/J_holubek/Diesel/100_0258.jpg)
You eff up the skill saw cut..
(http://i299.photobucket.com/albums/mm307/J_holubek/Diesel/100_0263.jpg)
You fix it..
(http://i299.photobucket.com/albums/mm307/J_holubek/Diesel/100_0271.jpg)
(http://i299.photobucket.com/albums/mm307/J_holubek/Diesel/100_0272.jpg)
You aim it to your highbeam spot..
(http://i299.photobucket.com/albums/mm307/J_holubek/Diesel/100_0262.jpg)
You put some screen on your highbeam bezel..
(http://i299.photobucket.com/albums/mm307/J_holubek/Diesel/100_0275.jpg)
You have yourself a finished 3" cold air intake ;)
(http://i299.photobucket.com/albums/mm307/J_holubek/Diesel/100_0280.jpg)
(http://i299.photobucket.com/albums/mm307/J_holubek/Diesel/100_0281.jpg)
(http://i299.photobucket.com/albums/mm307/J_holubek/Diesel/100_0282.jpg)
(http://i299.photobucket.com/albums/mm307/J_holubek/Diesel/100_0284.jpg)
(http://i299.photobucket.com/albums/mm307/J_holubek/Diesel/100_0286.jpg)
(http://i299.photobucket.com/albums/mm307/J_holubek/Diesel/100_0285.jpg)
Noticeably more power over the stock snorkel! A lot less smoke at WOT then before. Easily does 140km/h on the highway in 4th gear with three 240lb people in the car ;) A must do for anyone owning an N/A! I think the screen-bezel trick will fool most of the coppers around my area :P lol. Their pretty dumb to begin with. What do ya'll think? Next is the exhaust. 2.25-2.5" to a free flowing muffler of choice ;D
ps. I plan to setup some sort of flare at the end of the intake to make it suck primarily from the front bezel, instead of being able to get a bit of hot air still. Noise is not noticeably quieter over stock snorkel, but is quieter over no intake cover and just filter ;) as i was driving around for parts half way through the ordeal lolol
-
Good stuff. I was actually thinking of doing the exact same thing until I realized I need to use a TD air box on my car :(
What did you attach the screen with?
Where's your timing belt cover?
-
I used contact cement as it was all I had available at the exact moment of thinking to do the screen idea.. I suppose the fix-it putty epoxy may have worked. So far the epoxy is holding on my 140km/h highway runs.
Gov Mod and Exhaust is on the way :)
anyone know where I can get affordable 2.25" exhaust straights and bends?
-
come on jermo, just pop the top off your pump and mod the gov.. its so worth it. the first time you floor it and your engine pulls till 5500 it will put a grin on your face from ear to ear. and im talking its PULLING GOOD still. and i only used about half the shim i used in my last mod. i used one nut. maybe 3mm thick. worked awesome.
-
Call your local exhaust shop and ask if they will sell you some. Call around because I'm sure some of them will really mark it up
-
KEvo I want to do the exhaust and HG first so when I have the head off I can tap the manifold for an EGT. as I do not want to burn this little guy down ;) The engine will pull amazingly to said rpms once I have the exhaust on there! Gonna need a tach too! Cuz I will probably be up around the 5300+ area quite often as there is no reason these engines can't pull hard up there like there similar 1.6 gas brethren.
thanks Tyler, I will give it a shot tomorrow on the lunch break.
-
I've seen some high beam ram air fabs on other cars and always thought it was kick azz cool. Way to go 8v.
I've been trying to think of something non-hardening you could use to encapsulate around the headlight housing that would be cheap and easy to remove when needed. A chunk of carved out foam rubber/couch cushion is all that hits me yet.
I'd put the screen mesh over the other headlight too, for uniform look and stealthiness.
-
so actually i have a question regarding my headlights. ;) before doing the removal I actually had only one side.. hitting the high beam switch would only turn on the passenger high beam and passenger low beam high beam filament.. it would not light up either of the two driver side high beam filaments.. why is this? do they not run off the same power? I can't recall when i relayed my headlights on the 84.
-
not bad, still liked mine better ;D jk
If you get a 3" to 4" coupler and put it on the end I think you will have what you want OR go to the heating cooling section of the hardware and see if they have an aluminum vent for ductwork. They might even have the exact size or close enough to it, of your headlight.
No idea on the lighting question.
-
Where's your timing belt cover?
;D Those are for the WEAK!
haha, its being cleaned and painted.. Haven't had it on in months though.. ;) I was thinking of painting my valve cover and timing cover like the flag of Germany :P lol
-
Does the driver low beam work ?
I 'think' power goes to driver side lights first - then feeds off over to passenger side lights. Maybe you just have poor connections. Or bad bulbs.
Mk1's can be brutal sometimes on popping up with funky electrical quirks. But when you finally find or figure out the cause (hours/days/weeks later) its usually a pretty simple fix.
What i meant earlier was grill mesh on both high beams.
Or maybe even over all 4 lights.
-
my mk1 gets power from the drivers side power. then crosses the core support, then goes to the pass light..
-
Try and jump them with battery power and see what happens.
-
you did make sure that the lights even function?
-
I haven't gotten in to it at all, for the lack of amount i used them.. but now my only working one is gone! so i kinda need it to work. I will go out right now, and see whats up.
-
probably their touring line, as I assume they would offer the best ride quality.
Anyone ever use the Koni Reds I posted up there?
Someday I'm gonna do that intake mod...........I like the headlight idea.
I've never used anything but stock and napa struts so this is just what I've heard is that bilstein tourings ride more like stock, the heavy duties ride a little stiffer and the sports are better if you use lowering springs.
-
Hello good people of the forums. ;)
Ok so I didn't cement the one connection near the intake box so that I could take the whole conglomerate off easily and pain free.. however there is a tight tolerance between the pipe and the t-belt (yeah yeah covers going back on soon) so that one will fix up easy.. however the pipe and throttle arm have a slight interference. I think by putting the cover back on it should lift it up that needed like 1/8" so i guess we'll wait and see. It only rubs because i didnt cement that joint and its a little free to move around.. havent had time to diagnose the Headlights either.. check that out thursday evening i s'pose.
-
Put a wood screw through it like the factory did for the mk2.
-
Put a wood screw through it like the factory did for the mk2.
Genius! Thank-you! even the stock mk1 had this... why didn't I think of it.
-
The intake is working very well, and the ABS remains fairly cool even after a long hard run.. not only that but its rated to about 800F so i think it will hold up :P Also thank-you Tyler for the screws idea, fixed it right up and all is well :) It has most certainly given a noticeable high RPM boost, highway in and around the 30-3600 range in fifth at around 135 km/h it pulls i swear better then my Gasser. I am hoping the exhaust will, along with the Gov Mod, liven up this cumbersome beast even more :)
However, while awaiting my tax return I still work away at what I want to get done on this car. I'm gonna spew off a small revised list of what i need to get/do.. thoughts please :)
Body:
- Front windshield replaced
- Rust dealt with, properly ;) (whats a good way to make sure it does not return?)
- My front valence lip (it has possibly rusted away completely and it has been crapped patched with a sheet of metal)
- PAINT! I saw this rabbit build on the Vortex and I have seen a few cars with this color, I think it will look spectacular on this beast.
(http://blog.niot.net/blog-images/road-trip-2009-toyota-venza-a-few-refinements-short-of-a-great.jpg) - Floor rust will need minor tending too, a fairly significant hole in the drivers rear pan, but nothing a weekend can't fix.
- Fix one of the vent windows, one is the adhesive style, the other the bolt through.. adhesive one broke. I was thinking a good glob of contact cement. Any Ideas?
- I wish to paint the very widely used checker design on my roof ;) (just because its overplayed doesn't mean it doesn't look awesome!) Figuring on just doing the color the paint is, and then white checkers.. Mind you this is gonna be before actual paint.. when its still in rat stage.
- STRAIGHT FRONT BUMPER!! Both of the mk1's I have owned have had the drivers side of the front bumper turned up, pisses me off! lol whats best to do? try and find OEM? get euro bumpers? Never find any in the junkyard round here or close.
- Trailer Hitch!! I'm figuring a good class 1 hitch off the bumper will suffice for anything I wish to tow. As the bumper can already handle the 450lbs of my brother and I bouncing on it, i figure a 75lb tongue weighted trailer will be just fine ;D
- Most certainly love the look of vintage beer tap as a shifter, but I will settle for my golf ball for now lol
- Need one of these for sure!
(http://i.ebayimg.com/18/!Bdq5y2Q!2k~$(KGrHqEOKicEq3-Zi1bHBK56OzqK,Q~~_3.JPG)
Interior:
- Take carpet/seats out and fix floor rust, lay down some sound deadening material of sorts
- Paint the rest of the lower faded to ish dash pieces and re-install
- Make new door cards to possibly delete the big armrest, that never gets used as an arm rest, and replace with the "OH **** " handles featured in the rear of the car lol
- Get mother to fashion and assist on the install of a Tartan headliner, and door Cards :):). In this sort of color/design;
(http://www.coatsatfedaye.co.uk/catalog/images/browntartan.jpg) - Gauges, in the spot where the central A/c vents used to be. EGT, Oil pressure, Water temp.
Suspension etc:
- Polyurethane Bushing Kit
- Struts/Shocks and mounts all around, I need an idea of what kinda strut/shocks I should go with people! lol KYB Gas-a-just?
- New control arms
- New tie-rods and ball joints
- Bearings up front and in the rear
- Front brakes, discs and pads. Rear brakes just drums if the shoes are still o.k from last time.
- New tires on freshly color matched rims of choice. What are some good looking easy to get rims? (NOT stretched or low pro's, just normal good tires)
Engine:
- I have a 1.6 N/A MF engine sitting in my garage that has lowerish miles on it, and I plan to get an AAZ head and a turbo on it
- Port the helllll out of the head and gasket match them
- Run some reasonable sized turbo, and find then fab in an inter-cooler
- Rebuild the current FN trans that the car has, or swap my .71 5th over to my 4K trans for a way more fun ride ;)
- Giles Pump!!
- GOV MOD and Exhaust are in the planning stage.
- Find an old polished chrome tractor trailer stack to stick out the back ;D
- I also wish to do a little German colors under the hood, on the timing belt cover and the valve cover, eh? eh!?
(http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c386/relayer85/IMG_0986.jpg?1279070591)
So yeah in list form it seems I have quite a bit to do before I am fully satisfied.. but in reality its only a small chunk of good hard work :) and when hours go down at work in September, massive work will commence from the money I have been stashing for just this! Muhahahaha!
How do you guys feel about my plans? I know I am going with the "crowd" so to speak on the tartan interior, and checkered roof.. but at least I'm not slamming it, throwing in a VR, rusting the hood, and taking pictures of how my cellphone or a die just barely fits under my oil pan.. ;)
FEEDBACK PLEASE
-
(http://i299.photobucket.com/albums/mm307/J_holubek/Diesel/100_0315.jpg)
This is the fabric I have picked up for the headliner, and possibly the door cards, if it isn't too much..
It was a eagle eye find at the fabric store too, hidden in behind a bunch of old old old stock with just a corner visible.. and it will match the paint i want to do PERFECTLY lol Do you not think so as well?
Also do you feel 155/80R13 are too small? Maybe 165/80R13? How abouts 185/80R13? i kinda like the "I have a real tire on my car" look I feel 185/80R13 will fill the wheel well nicely.
-
LIES!!!
I have been looking for those PJ's for a long time...when did you come down here LOL jk
I think it would look fine. On the tires I think to keep a stock speedo in range you can't do those tires.
This is the tire size site and fwiw I have had the best ride on 175/75 on the 13s. You can play on this site to see what it would be to keep your speedo somewhat accurate. I think ROR said after 205's he had rubbing issues, but I could be wrong on that size. I bet 195 or under and you wouldn't have an issue.
http://www.miata.net/garage/tirecalc (http://www.miata.net/garage/tirecalc)
-
205s rub like a MOFO! 195s rub pretty good, but not as good as 205s. there isnt enough fender there. with a 205 it is almost hitting the spring plate/strut tower, and it still sticks clear out of the fender.
run a 195/60/r14 on there, it will handle like its on rails.
VWs like 60 series tires. anything with a bigger sidewall bigger and they start feeling sloshy around corners..
-
Back to suspension boys, what should I do? I dont really have the funds to be dropping like mad money on suspension alone.. Stock springs are shot, so I will need Struts/Shocks and Springs for all four corners. Gf's mk2 handles quite nicely on KYB Gas-a-just. These are like an upgrade yes? where the Gr-2 would be more like a stock strut?
-
you can get coil overs for about $100 on craigs or ebay
-
Gf's mk2 handles quite nicely on KYB Gas-a-just. These are like an upgrade yes? where the Gr-2 would be more like a stock strut?
From what I've heard that's correct.
If it were me I'd do just about anything to stay away from a stock suspension.
-
i have gas-a-just shocks on my 92 jetta. and some sort of BLUE no name lowering springs. it handles like NO OTHER.. the shocks are firmer than stock. kinda bouncy how it was set up tho..
i wouldnt mind having another set of gas-a-justs..
-
it appears gas-a-justs are impossible to find up here for the front of an Mk1.. So i will be getting;
-Monroe Sensa-tracs
-Febi/Bilstein mounts
-Upper & Lower front strut brace
-Front sway bar**
-Rear strut brace
**= possibility
-
i will be getting;
-Monroe Sensa-tracs
-Febi/Bilstein mounts
As a suggestion, i'd go with the matching Monroe strut mounts.
Mostly in part to take advantage of their lifetime warranty.
Febi/Bils probably will not have that.
They appear to be very high quality.
Also will highly recommend getting the Monroe boot/bumpstop kit.
Lifetime warranty there too. Very high quality full length black accordain boot. Bumpstop is dense urethane - just white in color.
In all you would have matching one-line top grade products with lifetime warranty. So ..... when time comes they need replacing again - you make one claim with one vendor and get all new stuff again. WIN !
The stock dust boot/cap and stock bumpstops are a bad joke.
Not even funny.
-
you already got a rear sway bar Jeremy? those are supposed to help out more than fronts.
-
you already got a rear sway bar Jeremy? those are supposed to help out more than fronts.
MK1 Jetta's came stock with one, I assume to help deal with the extra weight of a full trunk. I bought a stock mk1 bar a few years ago off ebay for my rabbit. It was hardly noticeable......I'm thinking of removing it just to see the difference. Now that I have the prothanes the swaybar might help more.
-
you already got a rear sway bar Jeremy? those are supposed to help out more than fronts.
On a RWD car. FWD needs a stiffer front bar to counter the engine torque.
-
you already got a rear sway bar Jeremy? those are supposed to help out more than fronts.
On a RWD car. FWD needs a stiffer front bar to counter the engine torque.
The less swaybar in the front the better (depending on what kind of driving or racing you do). With a FWD car coming out of a corner standing on the gas you don't want the inner front wheel trying to lift off the ground.
A fat bar in the rear and stiff springs all around are the first thing to do and if it still leans too much then go for a front swaybar.
-
I see i see! thanks for the info guys. No front bar it is ;) However I think I will go for the strut brace, and the lower control arm brace. as well as maybe a strut brace for the rear.
The only problem with the Rock Auto for me BVZ is the shipping..
Subtotal $180.42
Country:Canada Postal Code: L3V 3P3
Shipping: from United States $48.41
Total $228.83
I mean I guess for the 4 struts, 2 mounts, and 2 boot/bump kits.. $48 in shipping isn't all that terrible. I'm just so used to dealing with a Canadian online site that goes free shipping over $75.. and I wait till I have enough to break $80 to get the free shipping ;) For the 8 items in total with shipping.. I am still way less then buying Sensa-tracs locally. The two front struts alone here will be close to $180.. then another $44 each (ON SALE!!) for the rears and another $53 each for the monroe mounts.. like fml right?
Seems I am going that route ;) that along with the Prothane Bushing kit. and some strut tower braces.. this car will handle like it is on rails!
-
you already got a rear sway bar Jeremy? those are supposed to help out more than fronts.
On a RWD car. FWD needs a stiffer front bar to counter the engine torque.
Actually, every VW I've driven understeers with stock suspension setup. Putting on a stiffer sway bar in the rear helps make the handling more neutral.
-
Will you have to pay any import duties on that order ?
On top of the total you have now ?
That is some incredible mark-up you guys deal with on some of this stuff.
The full length boot is great.
It is easy for water to get into the strut housing otherwise.
Mine were heavily corroded on the inside, and holding mucky swamp water.
Had to remount both sides back on the spindles to get internal threaded top secure nut broken loose with a huge pipe wrench.
Had to use a bottle jack with strut rod mounted in vise upside down to remove the cartridge from the worst one. Had to continue jacking until it was about half way out.
Spent 30-45 minutes on each getting them cleaned up on the inside. The motor oil backfill was cooked and dead long ago.
These things were way past due years ago.
Could have done 4 normal sets in same amount of time.
ATF backfill is the choice ticket in my mind.
Since it has much longer service intervals than motor oil.
I'm gonna do a write up soon on front strut tips.
-
Will you have to pay any import duties on that order ?
On top of the total you have now ?
They offer to ship through FedEx or UPS. UPS I know does the ridiculous duty fee, does FedEx?
-
Check this site out
http://www.thefinalcost.com/ (http://www.thefinalcost.com/)
-
with this news Tyler, it is actually roughly the same or slightly cheaper to buy the local stuff at; $80.25 ea. Front Struts, $44 ea. Rear Strut, $53 ea for Monroe front mounts.. = $354.5 before taxes.. So it may still be cheaper to pay ungodly prices to have it shipped from USA.
-
Buy local and haggle the price a bit if you can. If there is a garage you normally deal with see if they can get you the parts.
-
you already got a rear sway bar Jeremy? those are supposed to help out more than fronts.
On a RWD car. FWD needs a stiffer front bar to counter the engine torque.
Actually, every VW I've driven understeers with stock suspension setup. Putting on a stiffer sway bar in the rear helps make the handling more neutral.
no dude, OM617 is god, he knows everything.. we are all idiots that know nothing, and he knows everything, isnt it apparent? what he says is the law of the land ;D
-
Let's not get this thread closed ;).
A front sway is fine for the average driver, it'll just keep it from swaying all over. The way I see it if you want to do any "performance" driving you gotta use a fatter rear bar and none in the front.
I have read some stuff where they used a fat bar up front and none in the rear but I think that's for a different type of racing, maybe high speed stuff.
-
Yes kEvo sthu ;) So I've got kind of a plan.. ship it to someone in the states and then have them USPS it to me. It SHOULD work out cheaper then if I get it UPS/FedEx to Canada.
So stiffer bar out back. Perfect. That will probably come after getting the front upper and lower braces and the rear strut tower braces.. I also would like to try that front lower brace that BFI offers (that goes between bumper mounts and front motor mount).. but by making my own and not paying $250 for a stolen design :P as I think they are a little more fundamental for stiffening the car up. doing the four corner susp upgrade, with new control arms, tie rods, bj's and bushings should redo the whole front end.
-
I've always read that rear upper strut braces are for show only, no benefit on the street.
-
perfect, i will use this time money and effort in to making one of those front support braces that bfi sells :) thanks Ty.
-
I would wait for someone to confirm or deny my statement before scratching it off the list...
-
front upper strut brace Night/Day difference in handling on the street. It was to be good difference because Nat wants one lol
-
But.. Tyler.. You have 4 stars! Your word means more than gold ;) I will look in to it further me thinks. but it will also hinder what i can have in my trunk.. and if its not REALLY needed then so be it. I was thinking of making the front upper from square aluminum.. anyone see anything against this?
-
THe VW one I had for MK3, you needed to drill holes in your struyt towers to install it. lol. I race, Trust me Jeremy ;D
-
We are talking about the rear upper brace though Catlin.
4 stars... clearly I'm missing one :P
-
Ahh...Stock MK3 Golfs Came with one, I never actually removed it, but from what I've been told it stiffens up the chassis quite bit in the rear end and keeps it from flexing.
But if your not planing on Track racing, I wouldn't worry about it.
-
track racing no, but street... quickness ;) yes. Haha I kid I kid, I am not a street racer.. but there are those times when you love scaring your passengers. OEM suspension in my last 84 Jetta would lift the inside rear tire on the highway on ramps :o That scared a few friends lol!
Hey Tyler, when Todd comes to see you, you need to relay to me how his Monroe's made out for his trip up :P.
As for the springs, the ones on the car ride OK, and they sit at a reasonable height. However the back two def have at least one coil broken off of them ;) Been driving it for like 5 months no issue.. so maybe just clean em up and run em? I have not hit the stock bump stops in the rear with the car fully loaded with 4 people and A LOT of stuff, and spirited driving.. so i figure all is well with them. However finding good used OEM would be best. anybody got some laying around? :P
-
I have not hit the stock bump stops in the rear with the car fully loaded with 4 people and A LOT of stuff, and spirited driving.. so i figure all is well with them. However finding good used OEM would be best. anybody got some laying around? :P
Weird, with four people and some stuff in my rabbit the rear sat on the bottom until I got heavy duty's.
The rear strut brace for one is incorrectly named, there are no strut's back there. And I believe the term damper brace would be incorrect also.
When cornering hard the rear axle beam is trying to pull the floor sideways.......that's body flex, the brace simply keeps the axle mount (floor) centered with the rest of the body, the upper shock mounts are just a good place to bolt stuff. The only force on the upper shock mounts in up or down, never sideways.
I'd get one if only I raced a lot. :)
The front braces on a mk1 are a good idea though, with lower being most important and then upper. I believe mk2 is the other way around.
-
Hey Tyler, when Todd comes to see you, you need to relay to me how his Monroe's made out for his trip up :P.
The new Monroe Sensa-Tracs on the front are excellent.
They have been put to rigorous tests - unloaded, loaded, and overloaded.
I'm very pleased.
It may be worth noting for future searchers, I used the Monroe boot/bumpstop kits. Their front bumpstop is about 3.5 inches tall and made from a very dense urethane. Perhaps comparable or perhaps superior to prothane.
Monroe knows their business.
The damping and rebound is excellent.
But a high quality bumpstop is probably also a crucial factor.
Do not rely on the inferior factory-type front rubber bumpstops and plastic dust caps.
A full length protective boot is a small price to pay to prolong the life of your investment and your labors. Thats why the high dollar stuff comes with them supplied in the box - built into the price of course.
-
Todd, I am very happy to hear you made it here and back safe and sound :) and that you gave those Monroe's a good test before I dump some money on them ;).
Also for future notes, warranty is covered if you get a shop to install them or if you install them yourself. With our without the Boot/Bumpstop kit as well.
The warranty is limited to the original purchaser of the product so the receipt needs to be to the consumer. If a mechanic is the installer, it is his invoice to you with our part numbers listed that would be required for warranty issues in the future. We replace regardless of the mileage on the units. The limits are that it is a non-transferable warranty and only good for the original purchaser of the product and the vehicle it is installed. You are correct that we only replace the part but do not cover any labor or shipping charges. We do not exclude if the units are installed by the consumer but we will not cover the product if not installed properly (any issue attributed to installer error).
Little do they know how easy it is to swap front struts on an Mk1 ;D
Weird, with four people and some stuff in my rabbit the rear sat on the bottom until I got heavy duty's.
Maybe my PO put in some KYB Whites when he re-did the rears last :P Seriously haven't hit the bumps, with a FULLY loaded car.
Todd you have given me the confidence to order Monroe. I must now figure out where from! :D OH JOY.
-
In the specs seems i remember they listed 6 inches of travel.
That is probably correct.
But fwiw - the actual length of the rod not including the taper or threaded sections - is 7 inches. So the top 1 inch is probably designed as dead space. And you won't get that far anyway unless your coil spring jumps completely off.
You could do the order deal and make payment in your name, then use a c/o on the shipping side of invoice and have them sent to a willing party in USA. As a consideration.
Might be another good question for the Monroe folks.