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Engine Specific Info and Questions => IDI Engine => Topic started by: NintendoKD on September 08, 2009, 12:14:26 am
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Ok, I can do all of the maintenance on the car just short of machining, so here goes. The problems started when I bought the car for $700.00 :o, I should have known that it was too good to be true. I got a third owner 80' vw rabbit diesel L in pretty darn good shape too and the engine ran to boot. I have had the car for a week and the original owners have disconnected their lines "no I did not stalk them" I should have known that something was fishy when they told me to meet them at a grocery store. Anyway, about five days into this now and there is oil in the coolant, an obvious leak around the water pump "upon closer inspection" so I am guessing a bad head gasket. Got some odd idling/ engine dying spontaniously, checked on here and re-checked my lines. I had air in my lines but that was an easy five minute fix by cutting the line and re-attaching. Once that problem was out of the way the engine ran great for a couple of days, keep in mind that I had no idea that the water pump needed to be rebuilt or that there was oil in the water yet. I changed the oil, and put in a new air filter "noticing the crappy hooks didn't seal right once re-installed" filled her up, and went home. To start this car the gentleman before told me that the toggle for the glow plugs was broken and he rigged it to a clamp that you can touch to the battery for about five seconds to get the engine started in the morning. This worked great except it heated up and always worried me. One day the engine stalled and the dash lights, clock and everything else in the car wouldn't work. I got home, and trouble shot the system as only I can and tried everything and after nothing worked out of complete and total defeat and suffering I removed the fuze box and... something popped. Put in the key and voila, the wiring harness had been hacked all to hell because at some pont in the vehicles life the A/C had been removed and wires had just been pulled, cut, and were every which way from right. After some routine maintenance, and changing out a busted taillight, and installing two batteries in the rear of the vehicle "set up for 12V but for higher current output". The starter would no longer work like an idiot I thought that it was a battery problem and tried to jump it with no success. The starter works but you have to jimmy it just rght to get it to start just one time then the whole process starts over again I'm thinkin solenoid, but cannot be sure until I have it tested. After this I started the engine and took her for a test drive, and boy what a drive it was, it seemed like the car had been given new wings, but this was shortlived as when I returned home the engine stalled. I started it back up only to the sound of what I can only describe as a monkey wrench dancing inside my engine wth ringing and banging veeeerryyy loud! I turned it back off and began investigating, that's when I found my bad water pump, I know there is an oil problem because after just a couple of days after filling her up wth oil I not only have oil pressure problems but oil in my cooland. I need help I need a new master gasket set from somewhere, I have a brand new thermostat, adn I need to change the head gasket cam and crank seals, and seals for most of the other components of the system "I like to play it safe" I also nee dto rewire the whole car, so If someone has an e-bntley manual and can send me the necessary page sit would be awesome as I don't have a bentley for this one yet.
thanks,
Kevin
P.S. this thing is doing something extremely annoying, When I wromt this post I wanted to stay at t he part where my text was but this stupid thing kept taking me back to the beginning. I must apoligize about my spelling but as you can see I can't go back
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wow man, that rabbit is really giving you the finger. i hate it when they do that. and that really sucks it doesnt run right. im kinda thinking its probably gonna come down to replacing the fuel pump.
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Is that really what is wrong?, I want to be sure before I go crazy and dissassemble her.
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maybe it's not a head gasket? no unburned smoke except at initial start and that is minimal and not black. I just dont know rod, bearing, mainbearing? piston, glowplug, valve. or somehting in the head???? What sounds like a monkey wrench dancing in the engine sounds like it's also coming from the exhaust.
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Welcome to old VW diesel ownership!!! :P It's not always this bad.. Sounds like you just got someone else's mess to clean up...
THe oil in the coolant is a head gasket.. Unless it was recently replaced and there is residual oil in the cooling system.. From what you have described so far I'm betting it hasen;t though...
I would get to the bottom of the noise first and foremost!! Do not run it anymore!!!! First thign to check is the timing belt.. Make sure it didn't jump.. Spin the engine over by hand and see if you can hear/feel anything... Next thing would be to drain the oil and look for signs of metal in it.. Metal means bearing failue which probably means the engine will need to come out of there.. You coudl pull the pan and do some initial inspections..
If nothing turns up in those checks probably you next step would be to pull the head and see what you got in there...
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Welcome to old VW diesel ownership!!! :P It's not always this bad.. Sounds like you just got someone else's mess to clean up...
THe oil in the coolant is a head gasket.. Unless it was recently replaced and there is residual oil in the cooling system.. From what you have described so far I'm betting it hasen;t though...
I would get to the bottom of the noise first and foremost!! Do not run it anymore!!!! First thign to check is the timing belt.. Make sure it didn't jump.. Spin the engine over by hand and see if you can hear/feel anything... Next thing would be to drain the oil and look for signs of metal in it.. Metal means bearing failue which probably means the engine will need to come out of there.. You coudl pull the pan and do some initial inspections..
If nothing turns up in those checks probably you next step would be to pull the head and see what you got in there...
Add to this advice you can pull the valve cover and oil pan to get a fairly good look at the internals while the engine is in the car. Deffinately don't run it any more with that sound.
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good advice, changing the oil is muuch cheaper than replacing the engine, I'll do it and see what I can see. Ho wwill I know if the belt jumped, and more importantly, THEY CAN DO THAT!!!??? :o The valve cover comes off soon, is there supposed to be oil in the intake, I just replaced the oil filter and it is soaked. Sorry about all of the questions but rabbitownersclub is too slow and there are more members/enthuziasts here. I am also a diesel noob but still learning.
Thanks,
Kevin
P.S. my other cars are an 01' MR2 Spyder, 54 plymouth savoy, suzuki reno, mazda MPV, 78'rabbit VR6 MID engine AWD project...... yeah, I think thats it
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Belts can indeed jump, but it's usally due to either failure of the belt itself, or failure of a related component (tensioner and such) Generally if the belt did jump there will be some visable damage, or it'll be really loose.. PLan on chaning it at any rate, these are an interfereance engine, By the sounds of it who knows when it was changed last, plus the leaky waterpump was probably bathing it pretty good as well..
Check out http://vincewaldon.com/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=24&Itemid=28 (http://vincewaldon.com/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=24&Itemid=28)for the timing procedure, that should give you something to reference whether the belt is right...
How much oil is in the intake?? A little is normal, alot (as in puddles) is excessive blow by.. In later years they started putting a plastic oil baffle under the valve cover (when they introduced hyro lifters I believe).. This will help with oil in the intake...
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Sweet! you are the best brother, I don't have a bentley yet, so procedures are going to be a BIG! help. There are nice puddles, but what causes it, and is it bad? I have a baffle for a gasser, will it work? will hydro lifters from a gasser work? I have those too, and if I have to take off the head, then I might as well change to hydro lifters, better, right? The belt has tension and everything appears to work properly since there are no plugs "like a gasser" there is no way for me to see if the TDC is good with the cam's timing without removing the head, or is there??? ??? Any way thanks for all of your help so far, tis is good stuff.
Thanks,
Kevin
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The puddles are basically engine oil blown in the intake through the breather by the blowby gasses.. Some oil in the intake is normal since a diesel has no intake vacuum for a typical PCV system.. Alot of oil in there usually means the rings are getting bad.. Although the baffle will help this out..
Another thing that can cause this is a vacum leak between the vac pump and booster, or the booster itself.. The vac pump exhaust is routed into the crank case.. If there is a leak in the vac system it will suck more air in which in turn will leave more air to exhaust out... This extra air pressure in the crank case pushes more gasses and oil out the breather..
Alot of oil being blown into the intake can be VERY bad as it could lead to a condition known as "engine runaway".. These darn little buggers will run on darn near anything, engine oil included.. IF the engine oil is being blown in the intake from the breather you have no control over the engine speed (diesels vary their engine speed by the amount of fuel injected).. So lettng off the gas or shutting the key off will not stop it.. Kind of a vicious cycle, the faster the engine runs the more oil it blows out, the more oil going in the intake the faster the engine runs.. Not pretty!!! The only way to stop one at this point is to dump the clutch and stall it..
I believe the gasser baffle will work fine, but you can't put hydraulic lifers in a solid lifter head.. There are not provisions to get oil pressure to them... The mechanical lifters are pretty much trouble free.. I think the interval to check the clearance is 20K miles.. I generally do it when I change the timing belt at 60K since I have the V/C off anyhow... Although I rarely have to adjust them... It has also been debated that the solid lifter engines make more power.. I can;t say either way on this, but I can say I have fewer headaches with them...
The only way to check the cam position is to remove the valve cover, no need to pull the head for that though...
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Not sure if I'm going to need it yet but where can I get a maser rebuild kit for this thing? What I mean by that is when I rebuilt my inline 6 for the 54' plymouth I got all of the engine seals, piston rings, pistons rods, bearings...... basically, everything I needed to rebuild the engine from just the block and head. Does anyone do that? or will I have to shop around? "most bang for buck" is the objective here. If not could you point me in the right direction here? My wife has been through this with my other cars and is not too happy about one more, so the little I spend the better, to the point of low quality components "that I just can't do" No junkyard in my area has this engine or any diesel for that matter. Also, If I need to dissassemble the engine are there any mods I can do while it's out ex. holes for increased oil flow, removing excess material, etc. I would like to do what I can to keep from having to take this thing out again and avoid the machinist at all costs as well as preserve the originality of the car "in the event I ever do wish to sell......NOT!"
Thanks,
Kevin
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I know what you mean as far as a complete rebuild kit... I've never specfically bought an entire rebuild kit but I'm sure they are out there, that or one of the vendors would probably work with you..
AS far as vendors who sponsor this forum there is:
Performance Diesel - Get in touch with "burn_your_money" or "Giles@performancediesel"
We also have Myke_w
There is also vwdieselparts.com , http://partsplaceinc.com/
I know I am gonna hear it for even mentioning this one but there is also emiata.com aka dieselvw.com aka a few other websites.. Commonly refered to as "Prothe" which is also his handle on ebay.. The reason I'm sure I'll hear it is that some of his parts are of questionable quality and origin.. His rebuilt injection pumps have been historically crap.. I've bought pistons and some other odds and ends and felt they were fine, I believe it was Smokey eddy got one of his heads and it was okay, not great but better than nothing.. His prices are hella cheap, I'd like to say his customer service has been improving.. I guess I would say use your best judgement and ask around for testimonials of his parts before you jump at a deal...
A little note about piston rings, the Top Line rings have not worked well for me, I believe it was Zukigod that had problems with their pistons as well... Grant and Goetze have always worked well for me.. There's another brand out there that I can;t think of I've heard good reports about..
If you are gonna go at it whole hog, send the head to a machinist and have it pressure tested, and most likely it will need re surfaced.. A valve grind may not hurt pending on the condition..
I'm guessing you have a 1.5L.. Oversized pistons are near non existant... These early engines also used 11mm head bolts that were trouble to say the least.. Inspect around the head bolt holes on the block for cracks, if it's questionable have it magnafluxed.. You will need head studs with the 11mm stuff.. No if's ands or buts.. Not only does it prevent repeat head gasket failures, it prevents the block from cracking.. The 11mm bolts were a bit too short and only thread into the block about a half inch.. Not near enough for the compression...
Inspect the intermediate shaft bearings closely.. Especially the one out by the pulley.. These have been known to chip away... Check out the FAQ, myke_w has a great write up about improvements that can be done on the main bearings.. I used clevite bearings on my engine that do the same thing already..
Have the injectors tested or plan on replacing/rebuilding them.. Generally it's said they are good for 50 - 60K miles.. The engine still may run okay with worn injectors, but you'd be amazed at the power and economy of fresh ones..
Replace that timing belt AND tenstioner.. Rather cheap comparted to the expense of a failed belt...
I'm sure there have been some things I have forgotten, hopefully someone will chime in and add that.. I know I;ve seen some other vendor names tossed around as well..
Speak up folks!!! It's 3am and I'm outta cigars!!!
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There is also vwdieselparts.com , http://partsplaceinc.com/
I live near these guys. 30 years ago, they were _the_ place... now, the owner has sold the parts place inc business to his daughter. So far so good. Problem is he still owns the bone yard next to the shed he moved his daughters business into. He charges her a steep price for the parts he supplies to her (New and used). As a result, most of that you see in their catalog is no longer available and the prices are going to be steeper, not to mention the customer service has fallen on the floor.
Family Feud.
The last master rebuild kit I bought was through JC Whitney, but I don't know if they still can get them. NAPA might be a good choice.
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wow lotta information, good stuff, I have one "leaky injector"so good idea to relace them. They appear as if they have never been relaced 205,209 on the ODO and I still haven't tracked down the original owners, o find out maintenance history, which would help. Head studs, from ARP I imagine, dimensions mentioned, I can check the block and head for warping etc. Have one of those straight ege thingy's that machinists use and a flashlight to check for dimples etc. I want to avoid the machinist at all costs because there is no quality machining here in the desert anymore, and The only guy around's work is questionable and exspensive at best. :P I can clean the valves and determining whether they are good or not is pretty easy I know a guy with a valve grinder and can do 3-angle jobs on my own. I can alo port the head "although veeery time consuming" I have done it before and can do it again, polish the exhaust, What I really need is a Bentley, all of the dissasembly, reassembly ino clearances, head stud torque specs etc. Is there anyone that has a spare? I promise I'll give it back "with only a few greasy fingerprints" JK.
Thanks soo much you guys,
Kevin
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you wont find head stud torque in a bently yo...
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Speak up folks!!! It's 3am and I'm outta cigars!!!
Don't roll them so fat and your bag will last longer :P
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wow lotta information, good stuff, I have one "leaky injector"so good idea to relace them. They appear as if they have never been relaced 205,209 on the ODO and I still haven't tracked down the original owners, o find out maintenance history, which would help. Head studs, from ARP I imagine, dimensions mentioned, I can check the block and head for warping etc. Have one of those straight ege thingy's that machinists use and a flashlight to check for dimples etc. I want to avoid the machinist at all costs because there is no quality machining here in the desert anymore, and The only guy around's work is questionable and exspensive at best. :P I can clean the valves and determining whether they are good or not is pretty easy I know a guy with a valve grinder and can do 3-angle jobs on my own. I can alo port the head "although veeery time consuming" I have done it before and can do it again, polish the exhaust, What I really need is a Bentley, all of the dissasembly, reassembly ino clearances, head stud torque specs etc. Is there anyone that has a spare? I promise I'll give it back "with only a few greasy fingerprints" JK.
Thanks soo much you guys,
Kevin
Seriously before you buy anything get another book, there is no end to the problems on these creatures till you have basicly rebuilt the whole car. Actualy probably rebuilt twice, by then we know what we didn't do right the first time. But none of us will ever admit that publicly will we, Can I get an AHMEN ;D P.S., I have got 2 Master kits and lot sof other parts from Parts Place and have no complaints with their parts. I have seen a change in their style since their change in ownership but they are still very good and you can talk to somebody on the phone who has more knowledge about VW's other than where they parked theirs at when they got to work like some places are. Things are changing everywhere and pretty fast too but I think they are a still a very good place and their shipping is good too.
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Actualy probably rebuilt twice, by then we know what we didn't do right the first time. But none of us will ever admit that publicly will we, Can I get an AHMEN ;D
I don;t know what you're talking about.... ::) Now excuse while I go work on assembling my second engine...
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I realize that head stud specs aren't in a bentley bro, but they have to be somewhere on the forum as I really want to do this right. I you talk to anyone I always measure twice before I cut, and If I cut it I do it really well or not at all. 8)
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This was debated once upon a time.. The VW specs for 11mm bolts seem kind of low, I debate if that wasn;t because they knew the block would take no more.. I think the measuremant for the 12mm stretch bolts used on later diesels ends up to being something around 103 ft/lb...
Personally, I use the ARP specs, no problems yet.. At least with that particular aspect.. The uber fussey machinists at the machine shop concur that the arp spec is ideal for this setup.. Others prefer to torque them up to between 90 and 100 ft/lbs.. I guess if you happen to have a head that isn't quite flat the extra torque may make up for it... I've pulled that particular number myself on other engines...
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what head gasket should I use? three notch? lower notches means higher comp. no's right? there is another post for the crank that I want to buy good idea? not sure on that on either. Are there any special tools necessary for this build? I don't want to have to do it twice, that's why I'm here, I want to avoid all of the mistakes that others have made. I try to live vicariously. :P
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I am rebuilding everything, already decided. I am rebuilding everything, save the fuel pump. Replacing the oil pump, water pump, bearings, rings, and all of the seals and installing head studs. Any other suggestions for trouble free, maintenance free..... er as little maintennce as possible, longevity operation are greatly appreciated. Thanks, guys.
Kevin 8)
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Hey kev, take your 1.5, get a TD block, and throw the 1.5 roataing assembly in it. you willl need to get 1.5 pistons and notch them tho. its a pretty easy swap, then you have the beauty of a tough block, and the revs/powerband of a 1.5.
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anyone got one they can give me ;D the idea is cheap here folks, reason being that the wife is already having a coniption over all of this I'l post up some pics, oh and I'll need someone to walk me through all of this like should I keep the cyl head as well? etc. I don't want to go turbo for simplicity and price but hey if someone is feeling generous 8) I told her I would get it running an then that's it, no modding, etc. so if she's got any inkling that I'm going somewhere crazy with this she will go crazy too and probably move back in with her parents in Japan and take my two year old with her :-[
oh and I don't know if I mentioned before but I live far away from a good boneyard with vw diesels and don't have a means to truck one out here even if I did. :'(
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(http://i585.photobucket.com/albums/ss298/NintendoKD/my%2080%20rabbit%20diesel/P1010460.jpg?t=1252982973)
(http://i585.photobucket.com/albums/ss298/NintendoKD/my%2080%20rabbit%20diesel/P1010461.jpg?t=1252983310)
(http://i585.photobucket.com/albums/ss298/NintendoKD/my%2080%20rabbit%20diesel/P1010462.jpg?t=1252983369)
(http://i585.photobucket.com/albums/ss298/NintendoKD/my%2080%20rabbit%20diesel/P1010463.jpg?t=1252983413)
(http://i585.photobucket.com/albums/ss298/NintendoKD/my%2080%20rabbit%20diesel/P1010464.jpg?t=1252983459)
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I know what you all are thinking just how did he get the intake and full exhaust mani./downpipe off together while the fuel pump is still attatched? Very carefully gentlemen, very carefully. 8)
Ok, next are the other pics I took
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(http://i585.photobucket.com/albums/ss298/NintendoKD/my%2080%20rabbit%20diesel/P1010465.jpg?t=1252985868)
(http://i585.photobucket.com/albums/ss298/NintendoKD/my%2080%20rabbit%20diesel/P1010466.jpg?t=1252985900)
(http://i585.photobucket.com/albums/ss298/NintendoKD/my%2080%20rabbit%20diesel/P1010467.jpg?t=1252985942)
(http://i585.photobucket.com/albums/ss298/NintendoKD/my%2080%20rabbit%20diesel/P1010468.jpg?t=1252986183)
(http://i585.photobucket.com/albums/ss298/NintendoKD/my%2080%20rabbit%20diesel/P1010469.jpg?t=1252986231)
(http://i585.photobucket.com/albums/ss298/NintendoKD/my%2080%20rabbit%20diesel/P1010469.jpg?t=1252986231)
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looks like valve slap, bad rings??? should I get oversized rings to compensate for the old block walls. I understand that the 1.5 blocks crack, however, I don't exactly see anyone giving one up and I don't have the cash to buy one and the rebuild kit, so I wll just rebuild this one RIGHT, THE FIRST TIME! I will no doubt need everyones help, and preventative measures for this to go smoothly. I think I should start a build thread just for this. but everything else is already here so I think I'll stay. I want the most reliable best performance for the buck, without going turbo here so any and all input is welcomed. Thanks so far everyone. 8)
Kevin
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those are really crappy pics, i cant even really tell what im looking at, besides a greacy 1.5. cant really assess damage from them. and the pistons are at the bottom of the bores too, so that didnt help much either.
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sorry the camera wouldn't focus properly, I'll rotate the rotting assy, and take some more pics tomorrow. I'll also get the no's from the head and block to compare. As far as I can tel this thing has never seen a machinista and those are the original internals, yes, original. 250,000 mi. and still original it was about her time I know some live longer, but I need something reliable and I can't very well shrug my problems off on someone else "that's how this all got started" Do you notice the cracks in the cylinder head between the vave seats? is that normal? I know that diesels are different but that looks bad :-[
thanks,
Kevin
"fate rarely calls upon us at a time of our choosing"
The last prime
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Cracks between valves are normal.. As long as they are no wider than the thickness of a dime is the general rule of thumb....
IF there isn;t a horrendous ring ridge, a set of standard ole rings and some honeing will do the job..
I think it may have had a broken TB at some point.. Looks like some valve inprints in the crows of the pistons.. Meaing the head has has some variety of work done at some point.. Which also means it has been removed and insalled.. More reason to check around thsoe head bolt holes for cracks.. These generally crack upon torqing the head after a HG job.. ..
I know you want to keep this cheap, but all the best rebuild parts in the world aren;t gonna fix a cracked block..
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broken tb? what's a tb I thought that diesels don't have throttle bodies there wasn't one connected to the intake???
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that's after removing the cam right so that all of the valves close to check the valve seals, I planned on doing a three angle job on the valves, however, are they any good especially after valve slap like that? grr. soooo frustrating I just don't know anything about these engines can't wait for that bentley to come in.,
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honestly, its better to wait for the book, so you know exactly what you are doing when you do it. you can almost get by with just a haynes or chilton manual.
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I know I'm getting in on this late, but you asked about rebuild kits. I have no experience with either vendor so can't speak to the quality.
http://www.rpmrons.com/Volkskits1.html (http://www.rpmrons.com/Volkskits1.html)
http://www.importperformanceparts.net/imports/ekvw-index.html?gclid=CO3W1pjy8ZwCFeNB5godRAM4lQ (http://www.importperformanceparts.net/imports/ekvw-index.html?gclid=CO3W1pjy8ZwCFeNB5godRAM4lQ)
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sweet, awesome, thanks for the info bro. I'll look into that I am currently looking into getting some high tensile strength head studs for the rebuild, I know that they are 11mm however, what I do not know is the length, and the thread pitch for the studs. I checked at NAPA, and Auto Crap and neither have them in the correct sizes based on the bolts that came out, apparently 11mm is a very strange size. How do I know what notch the head gasket is and more importantly isn't this how someone could modify the comp. ratio? lower is thinner so I'm guessing that would make a higher compression ratio, right? can I do this for the rebuild or shouls I stick to what was in there? ???
Thanks,
Kevin
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ARP makes the head studs, same as 8v gasser P/N 204-4701..
You'll need to measure the piston protrusion and select the proper thickness gasket... More compression is not necessarily a good thing with a diesel..
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how do I know what notch is the one I have?.... I think I said that really wierd, How do I know which one I have. This measurement will have to occur after the rebuild, right? oh, and partsplace inc. has a better deal on a full rebuild wih timing kit and everything for 450.00 shipped roundabouts called them today waaayyy cheaper that the guys listed above and you get everything, not just a re-ring kit.
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will this block work? it's a 1.7 but will it still work? no good? oh, woe is me :'(
http://salem.craigslist.org/pts/1345706814.html
I really want to get the ball rolling on this order the kit this week and have it finished by Fri next week. Mon is my birthday and I want to enjoy it doing something fun "not at work" should be on leave all of that week
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Gasser blocks are not as strong as the diesel blocks AFIK.. Althoug by the looks of another post on here it has been done but it ended badly.. It is probably doable, but questionable at best...... And the 1.7 blocks still use the smaller 11mm head bolts and I woudl guess would have the same issues.. Ideally a mid 82+ 1.6 diesel block and head would be the way to go... But I know what you mean about them being scarce in the boneyards.. Around here I keep finding 1.5's and early 1.6s...
HG is identified by the number of notches.. THese notches would be on the side facing the front of the car to towards the driver side of the center oil return hole.. The measurement will have to be done once it is all put back together... Theoretically it shouldn;t change, but one never knows.. Good chance when the head was off someone just threw a thick gasket under there which works, but is not the best for optimal performance...
Take some time and check you the FAQ section, and the search.... Most anything you'll need to know till your bently arrives is out there...
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the boneyard ::)...... well out here in the desert, there are no diesels in our boneyard except big, and I mean BIG! trucks like some industrial three tonners and bigger. Kinda strange I suppose for other boneyards buy not for this guy basically a pristine scirocco with all flat tires engine and all but all other VW's are stripped LOL a couple late model 12v vr6's but nothing in the diesel market. looks like I'm going with the 1.5 for this build. NOOOO! power build for this guy, reliability all the way.
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why do you want to screw around with an ancient gasser block? its closer to me than you are. for that amount of miles, just come buy a running 1.6 from me. haha.
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Don't have the money or the means buddy, or else I would, how high can I get the comp safely/reliably? how hard is it to go turbo, and if, BIG IF, I do it it would be rather low boost, and intercooled like in the 1-15 psi range this turbo has a 5bolt flange and is wastegated with a vaccum actuator came off of an 240sx engine.
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ive got a 1.5 in mine. stock head bolts, stock reused head gasket. its intercooled and has a max of 28 psi boost. its the most reliable diesel ride i own.
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I'm dropping around 500.00 into the car in rebuild costs, plus, the labor is al mine too, could I get 1,500.00 for it? or is that asking too much?
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I have a straight pipe exhaust, and weitec coilover suspension to put on it to lower it and provide a bit of tuned suspension performance. I got all of this for free today in a 78 rabbit that was given to me with no engine "just a parts car" I have some really good friends, anyway if you guys need anything for your MK1's let me know and I'll see what I can do. NO, to answer your question, the dash is cracked beyond all belief and you cannot have the round style headlights as they were taken from the car before I got it. I have also taken all of the poly bushings from the suspension and will integrate them into the diesel.
thanks,
Kevin
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Rebuild, Rebuild here I come full rebuild in the works, pictures to ensue soon. I am ordering the rebuild kit, and some plastiguage, I already have everything else. Anybody have any idea where I can get a hone brush wires with little sand balls on the ends and a drill spring extension so that I can polish out the exhaust ports? I may have to start another thread for this. I am not even sure the proper name for he tools. I will order the head studs from summitracing. Before I do is there anything else that I should remember? anything special for the rebuild at all I get that feeling that I missed something ???
Also, can I get chromemoly rings for this engine? or some dimensions for the stock rings so I can maybe find some moly ones?
Thanks,
Kevin
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I accidentally ordered .25 over bearings for a machined crank. What a nightmare that was... just saying i have a set that will likely never get used.
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good to know, pull the bottom end first, then order the parts.
Thanks,
Kevin
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you dont know if that thing even needs to be rebuilt or not. if it runs as good as you say it does i would just run it.
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Rebuild, Rebuild here I come full rebuild in the works, pictures to ensue soon. I am ordering the rebuild kit, and some plastiguage, I already have everything else. Anybody have any idea where I can get a hone brush wires with little sand balls on the ends and a drill spring extension so that I can polish out the exhaust ports? I may have to start another thread for this. I am not even sure the proper name for he tools. I will order the head studs from summitracing. Before I do is there anything else that I should remember? anything special for the rebuild at all I get that feeling that I missed something ???
Also, can I get chromemoly rings for this engine? or some dimensions for the stock rings so I can maybe find some moly ones?
Thanks,
Kevin
The moly type rings are probably the only type you actualy will be able to get. I tried to get the cast style for an engine a while back but couldn't find any. The biggest problem with the moly type is that they take so much time to break in especialy on an older engine where the cylinders arent perfectly round any more. The hone doesn't true them up, it just gives them the right finish or texture but it will probably be fine. The other alternative is to get it bored with new pistons but that's way more expensive. If you get one of the brush style cyl. hones you will be fine, just make sure if there is a wear ridge at the top that you remove it with a ridge reamer. Me, I personaly like the cast type rings even on a new bore but nobody seems to have them anymore and I'd hate to have to buy another set of rings when the new pistons come with a set of moly's anyhow. I'm glad you are getting the ARP studs, it will save a lot of problems on down the road. There's nothing more agravating than having an engine pressurize the cooling sytem or leak externaly after a very careful rebuild. With the studs you can retorque it a lot easier and more acurately than those stretch bolts or the shorter 11's which are prone to cracking the block. Have fun :)
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Hand cranked the crank, felt something inside sort of grind. So I must argue the point, I am pretty sure that that qualifies a rebuild. multiple system failure due to a cascading failure of the following "and as posted before" bad oil, water pumps, and a bad or getting there head gasket, as well as ailing rings. yes, I have checked these and they are bad. I am not going to do a line bore, and the rings that come in the kit are cast, however, I was under the impression that moly is better, lighter, and stronger. *snickers at the six-million dollar man reference* I ended getting the kit from parts place great people there, haven't paid "waiting for my measurements" but got a ticket no. so when I call back they have a reference on the parts I want the head gasket is interchangeable with one of the three varieties, but that is about it. This kit comes with everything, and I do mean everything cept the crank, cam, block, and head. Wicked kit for $450.00 shipped. If there is a better kit out there for a better price LET THIS GUY KNOW! I am working on procuring a flange for my gt25 turbo, and am searching for a rebuild kit as well.
This thread is working out pretty well for me but maybe I should repost and move the content?
Thanks,
Kevin
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Hand cranked the crank, felt something inside sort of grind. So I must argue the point, I am pretty sure that that qualifies a rebuild. multiple system failure due to a cascading failure of the following "and as posted before" bad oil, water pumps, and a bad or getting there head gasket, as well as ailing rings. yes, I have checked these and they are bad. I am not going to do a line bore, and the rings that come in the kit are cast, however, I was under the impression that moly is better, lighter, and stronger. *snickers at the six-million dollar man reference* I ended getting the kit from parts place great people there, haven't paid "waiting for my measurements" but got a ticket no. so when I call back they have a reference on the parts I want the head gasket is interchangeable with one of the three varieties, but that is about it. This kit comes with everything, and I do mean everything cept the crank, cam, block, and head. Wicked kit for $450.00 shipped. If there is a better kit out there for a better price LET THIS GUY KNOW! I am working on procuring a flange for my gt25 turbo, and am searching for a rebuild kit as well.
This thread is working out pretty well for me but maybe I should repost and move the content?
Thanks,
Kevin
That's where I got both my Master rebuild kits from. I have bought a lot of things from them and I like them alot. If you got cast rings don't be afraid of them, they will seat a lot faster. Most of these older cars didn't have them in the beginning and look how many miles they went. I doubt if you'll ever put another 200,000 on your car after it's done anyhow so I wouldn't worry about how long they'll last but they will definately break in a lot faster. Be careful cleaning the grooves in the piston so you don't gouge them and increase the clearance somehow
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the kit comes with new pistons so why would I clean the grooves?
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the kit comes with new pistons so why would I clean the grooves?
That's right, the $450 kit has the pistons also, that's the one I got for the N/A. I don't know how far along on this or how you are pushed for time or money but for the same price you can get the oversize pistons and boring these runs around $100 around here. Take the price of the cyl. hone off that yet and it sounds even better ;)
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everything is more exspensive in california, now here's the worst part, just because it costs more doesn't mean it is higher quality >:( As much as I would love to do a bore and hone I just don't have the dough so that's a bust I am doing this right the first time for long lasting effects. I now have my Bentley, just got it today YAY! :D
If California broke off from the country, tomorrow, I would not wave goodbye, I would have a celebration! For the folks who love it in Cali KEEP IT! YOU CAN HAVE THIS PLACE! No offense but I hate life here, hate the prices, hate the taxes, hate the DMV, hate the corrupt liberalist hippie government, and I especially hate the lazy citizens, who unlike members of the military, can actually do something about the government, but don't. People should not fear the government, it should be the other way around. If people in Virginia "where I am from", tried the crap that the Govt. here in Cali gets away with on a regular basis, at all, the COMMONWEALTH citizens would have a revoloution and "*politically correct terminology used here*the central govt. would be RELOCATED" to Hell. Now off of the political pony and back on topic. I simply cannot wait to do this rebuild. 8)
Thanks guys,
Kevin
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Ok, I have a revised list of components for the rebuild. I have a perfectly in tune 1.5 head that is sparkling clean, I will send the injectors out, get new lines "need some help on this one, don't want to buy pre measured ones" I ned the fuel lines from the big filter to the injection pump and new return lines, there was a leak, and I would rather change all of them than take a chance and miss one. I also need a new fuel filter big, and one in-line filter small, and I need to rebuild the I/P or send it off cheap rebuild to have a daily driver "how much does a bosch rebuilder cost and where is a reputable one located?" I will need an upper gasket set, oil and coolant, and a fast glow set, with plugs and relay. I think that that is all, but the wife needs the van during the day, so that will put my franken build on hold, at least until I can get the 1.5 running "in other words, she gave me an ultimatum :'(" I checked the lifters and cold, they are at the top end of the spec range "new shims in order?" the valves have zero play, and the head is in spectacular shape "only 180,000 miles, I think" The pistons are good, just need to go over the deck with a zippy wheel, and get some new motor mounts. Anything else I'm missing?
thanks guys,
Kevin
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Dang it, forgot a few things, like the injector bushings, the hoses that I need, how much should I order and which types do I need? Where can I get the best prices for each item, does anyone know from experience? I happen to know that the going rate for 1.5 injectors, rebuilt on autohaus is the cheapest I have seen @38.12 each, with a 11buck core, that's pretty cheap, also looking for a shim kit, rather than buy individually cheaper? or no? I am so scatterbrained right now with the build and deployment coming up a little help with the shopping list would be just spectacular. I was looking at vw partsplaceinc for their engine kits, but they contain more than I need, or do they? what should I do/check etc. I am looking at about 400, after core charges at autohaus and that is without the new style vac pump and injection pump rebuild, I'm thinking of doing the I/P rebuild myself, I want to spend as little as possible so I have more play money for the main event. ;D There has just got to be a way. I don't want to sound like a grubby miser, but I really need to make this a reliable engine for the long haul, and need to do it for fairly cheap. I have a bunch of stuff to sell, so I'll start there to put some plus in the ol paypal maybe this will give some of you the opportunity to pawn off some of your stuff at a lower price than the competition. I would love to use the aaz injectors that another member gave to me but the height is different isn't it? I would need new pump to injector pipes, and that's just more money :'( I do plan on getting ARP fasteners regardless, becase this is a 1.5 11mm block.
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I am going to use the 2.5 staight exhaust for this, and thinking of using the weitecs I have from the 78 and parting it out due to the move to the spyder. I'll also swap the front round style lights from the 78, or maybe just the other way around, and make a lightweight 1.5 N/A miserdriver
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Ok, I have a revised list of components for the rebuild. I have a perfectly in tune 1.5 head that is sparkling clean, I will send the injectors out, get new lines "need some help on this one, don't want to buy pre measured ones" I ned the fuel lines from the big filter to the injection pump and new return lines, there was a leak, and I would rather change all of them than take a chance and miss one. I also need a new fuel filter big, and one in-line filter small, and I need to rebuild the I/P or send it off cheap rebuild to have a daily driver "how much does a bosch rebuilder cost and where is a reputable one located?" I will need an upper gasket set, oil and coolant, and a fast glow set, with plugs and relay. I think that that is all, but the wife needs the van during the day, so that will put my franken build on hold, at least until I can get the 1.5 running "in other words, she gave me an ultimatum :'(" I checked the lifters and cold, they are at the top end of the spec range "new shims in order?" the valves have zero play, and the head is in spectacular shape "only 180,000 miles, I think" The pistons are good, just need to go over the deck with a zippy wheel, and get some new motor mounts. Anything else I'm missing?
thanks guys,
Kevin
you will re evaluate that small fuel filter once you actually get the car running. you are going to have to clean or replace the small inline filter about 15 times before the big filter actually even starts getting dirty.
ASK ME HOW I KNOW!!
eventually i took the small inline filter off and it worked fine until i pulled the engine out.
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I have some 7mm fuel line coming
Fuel supply to filter & pump to return line
Tell me how much you need ?
GB
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I especially hate the lazy citizens, who unlike members of the military, can actually do something about the government, but don't. People should not fear the government, it should be the other way around.
Haha, Frome here, it looks like you have it backwards, every time we 'lazy hippies' try to get heard,the SWAT team show up with dogs and pepper spray, telling us 'GTFO, go sit in a free speech zone, we don't have to listen to you.' Since we are (compared to the riot squad) disarmed, they really don't. Even worse, we pay an Army to protect us from this crap!
http://stores.ebay.com/pbtxxxs-wholesale (http://stores.ebay.com/pbtxxxs-wholesale) I've got excellent filters from these guys for a good price, you might ask about the LFS500, as the 1000 is a bit of a chunk, and hard to fit on a bunny. They aren't listing as much stuff as they used to, probably due to Ebays off kilter fee structure, but they do have pretty much everything in the Racor catalog. On the political tip, I really hope their CEO Meg Whitman does not make governor, what do you think? I'm afraid of a tax to use my front door, with an extra fee if it is more than 5' tall, and another if it is used on weekends!
In you yellow pages, have a look for hydraulics, the should be some sort of ag-industrial hydraulic dealer that will have every kind of hose and fitting you can imagine, and then some.
On the shims the cheapest path is to, rearrange the ones you have for best fit, then measure up the remaining ones, and order to fit.
Why rebuild the pump if it is running well? Get it started, and check internal pressure. Why pay $900 to have $25 of non leaking seals replaced.
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if you need hose/fittings find your local Parker store.
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I especially hate the lazy citizens, who unlike members of the military, can actually do something about the government, but don't. People should not fear the government, it should be the other way around.
Haha, Frome here, it looks like you have it backwards, every time we 'lazy hippies' try to get heard,the SWAT team show up with dogs and pepper spray, telling us 'GTFO, go sit in a free speech zone, we don't have to listen to you.' Since we are (compared to the riot squad) disarmed, they really don't. Even worse, we pay an Army to protect us from this crap!
http://stores.ebay.com/pbtxxxs-wholesale (http://stores.ebay.com/pbtxxxs-wholesale) I've got excellent filters from these guys for a good price, you might ask about the LFS500, as the 1000 is a bit of a chunk, and hard to fit on a bunny. They aren't listing as much stuff as they used to, probably due to Ebays off kilter fee structure, but they do have pretty much everything in the Racor catalog. On the political tip, I really hope their CEO Meg Whitman does not make governor, what do you think? I'm afraid of a tax to use my front door, with an extra fee if it is more than 5' tall, and another if it is used on weekends!
In you yellow pages, have a look for hydraulics, the should be some sort of ag-industrial hydraulic dealer that will have every kind of hose and fitting you can imagine, and then some.
On the shims the cheapest path is to, rearrange the ones you have for best fit, then measure up the remaining ones, and order to fit.
Why rebuild the pump if it is running well? Get it started, and check internal pressure. Why pay $900 to have $25 of non leaking seals replaced.
No offense, just a little dry humor on my part, just fed up, I'm sure that you can understand. I am here not of my own free will. And about Meg, well I hope that there is another "boston tea party" of sorts it is a long time coming. I am a payer of taxes and really have no problem paying them, it is the principal underlying that gets my goat, I pay taxes to elected officials to make things better and allocate said funds without going bankrupt, in other words do the best they can with what I, and By the By thanks for the very useful advice, this helps out a great deal, and I plan on rebuilding my own pump thanks to vinc's helpful faq "thanks Vince"others, have given them, not tax the crap out of every dime I have because they can't do what They were elected to do.
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if you need hose/fittings find your local Parker store.
I'm sure that in Anchorage the "parker store" is as common as the moose's tooth and great micro brewed beer, but here in Socal, it's an entirely different story. by the way, hows the weather? 8)
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Parker is a big name brand in hydraulics, they sell hydraulic parts all over the world.
I would be very surprised if there was not one in your area.
as for the weather, it was warm today. I wore a t-shirt most of the day.
supposed to snow this weekend though...
-Owen
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http://twentynine_palms-ca.yellowusa.com/Hydraulic_Equipment_and_Supplies_Wholesale.html (http://twentynine_palms-ca.yellowusa.com/Hydraulic_Equipment_and_Supplies_Wholesale.html)
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wow, thanks 745turbogreasel, I had not thought of that, bit of a drive though....... well, everything is for me ::)
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To find your closest Parker distributor:
http://www.parker.com/portal/site/PARKER/menuitem.5f7d57d9c19d0b688621d68a237ad1ca/?vgnextoid=2f2880961f66e010VgnVCM1000000308a8c0RCRD&vgnextfmt=default (http://www.parker.com/portal/site/PARKER/menuitem.5f7d57d9c19d0b688621d68a237ad1ca/?vgnextoid=2f2880961f66e010VgnVCM1000000308a8c0RCRD&vgnextfmt=default)
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Ordered everything, should come in this weekend and be up and running by next week. YAY! I basically got everything for a good tune-up. Belts, gaskets, fuel filters, lines, injectors, arp studs. I will also be resealing the injection pump and doing the long awaited mod to the I/P to give it some more hurrah.
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So I was trying to figure out why the pistons had valve impressions on them, well I need not ask anymore, pictures to come, but the shims in the lifters are all jacked up. Anyone know the best, all out way to fix this situation. There are all different sized shims in all of the buckets. Should I just replace them as well? Valves look good but the shims were def on the bad end of tolerance levels. :'( I ordered all of that and still will not be running by wed. :-[
thanks for any help on this,
Kevin
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ok, so here are the no's listed in valve order printed on the underside of the lifter. If there is no number, it means that it wasn't present or illegible.
1)R3.65
2)3.50
4)3.60
6)3.40
7)3.40
8)3.55
now, here are the actual sizes in thicknes in mm of the shims "measured with calipers"
1)3.50
2)3.49
3)3.58
4)3.57
5)3.48
6)3.39
7)3.38
8)3.52
I measured all of the tolerances on intake valves only to discover that the shim slid right through I then dissassembled and did this. Am I wrong? is there another step in the process? What now? If I fix this and my I/P pump, will my valves no longer kiss the piston? "I have piston valve connection, ever so slightly"
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7&8
(http://i585.photobucket.com/albums/ss298/NintendoKD/my%2080%20rabbit%20diesel/P1030655.jpg)
5&6
(http://i585.photobucket.com/albums/ss298/NintendoKD/my%2080%20rabbit%20diesel/P1030654.jpg)
3&4
(http://i585.photobucket.com/albums/ss298/NintendoKD/my%2080%20rabbit%20diesel/P1030653.jpg)
1&2
(http://i585.photobucket.com/albums/ss298/NintendoKD/my%2080%20rabbit%20diesel/P1030652.jpg)
in order from cam "left" to sensor right" as I pulled them, replacement necessary?
(http://i585.photobucket.com/albums/ss298/NintendoKD/my%2080%20rabbit%20diesel/P1030651.jpg)
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how was the clearance of the valve train? they look absolutely useable to me. unless they are out of spec when installed. looks like someone used them in one engine or on a different valve, then turned it over and installed it in this engine. ive seen lifters used on both sides quite often actually.