VWDiesel.net The IDI, TDI, and mTDI source.
Engine Specific Info and Questions => IDI Engine => Topic started by: zagarus on August 23, 2009, 10:13:05 pm
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Seeing as I haven't posted anything on here about my build I figured I'd give a few teaser pics :P
(http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j67/zagarus/Coupe%20Rebuild/100_3247.jpg)
(http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j67/zagarus/Coupe%20Rebuild/100_3241.jpg)
(http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j67/zagarus/Coupe%20Rebuild/100_3244.jpg)
(http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j67/zagarus/Coupe%20Rebuild/100_3243.jpg)
(http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j67/zagarus/Coupe%20Rebuild/100_2958.jpg)
(http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j67/zagarus/Coupe%20Rebuild/100_2960.jpg)
(http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j67/zagarus/Coupe%20Rebuild/100_2967.jpg)
(http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j67/zagarus/Coupe%20Rebuild/100_2966.jpg)
(http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j67/zagarus/Coupe%20Rebuild/100_3151.jpg)
(http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j67/zagarus/Coupe%20Rebuild/100_3255.jpg)
(http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j67/zagarus/Coupe%20Rebuild/100_3253.jpg)
(http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j67/zagarus/Coupe%20Rebuild/100_3260.jpg)
(http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j67/zagarus/Coupe%20Rebuild/100_3257.jpg)
(http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j67/zagarus/Coupe%20Rebuild/100_3294.jpg)
(http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j67/zagarus/Coupe%20Rebuild/100_3293.jpg)
(http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j67/zagarus/Coupe%20Rebuild/100_3296.jpg)
(http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j67/zagarus/Coupe%20Rebuild/100_3299.jpg)
(http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j67/zagarus/Coupe%20Rebuild/100_3304.jpg)
(http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j67/zagarus/Coupe%20Rebuild/100_3310.jpg)
Fully rebuilt 1.9TD with a T3, custom intake made by a buddy, Giles fuel pump with calibrated injectors. Gonna get the passenger performance DP ceramic coated this time. Also going to be running an AWIC, 25psi after break in. And all stuffed in a 1992 Jetta Coupe, should be fun :D
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:o Wow, nice engine! Your friend planning on making any more intakes?
Jetta's gonna scoot! 8)
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thats one Sweet looking motor.
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SWEET !!! I like your turbo pointing up like that :-) Have not seen an oil pressure sending unit that big in many years,,,
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Lookin good Tom! Can't wait to see the finished product!
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I sold the same early production downpipe for 100.00 since it wouldnt fit my K14
Techtonics used it as a mock-up thou...
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:o Wow, nice engine! Your friend planning on making any more intakes?
Jetta's gonna scoot! 8)
when I go back to school and I have to have a "projects" I may knock out a few, but that won't be until feb 2010. I really don't like to bring work home.
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wow that engine is clean
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too bad he didnt actually take the time to make it a dual plenum intake... with the tapered slit in the top plenum, would have been tits.
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newb question...what is that exhaust manifold off of? I think that it would be ideal for the Toyota swap I am planning...clearance with the starter and a low-hanging turbo is a problem, and that definitely wouldn't interfere...standard T3 flange I assume?
Thanks
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newb question...what is that exhaust manifold off of? I think that it would be ideal for the Toyota swap I am planning...clearance with the starter and a low-hanging turbo is a problem, and that definitely wouldn't interfere...standard T3 flange I assume?
Thanks
correct me if i'm wrong here...but IO think thats a regular Turbo diesel VW manifold...with a T3...but it's the VW T3??(non standard?)
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I'm used to two different types...a "normal" one that has the bolt holes in a rectangle, and the turbo dodge one that has one bolt out a bit further than "normal"...I've seen triangular flanges and trapezoidal ones on this site, although it is likely that the KKK turbos might use those...as for the manifold, the reason I inquire is that if it's a stock one that is simply flipped, then that might make my life easier when I go to put the motor into my Toyota truck, as the starter and the turbo are very cosy with the turbo hanging down.
Thanks
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Upon looking at the TDI swap threads on tdiclub again, I realize that the IDI mainfolds generally carry the turbo like my 90 caravan and 87 daytona, and the TDI ones seem to hang it...my apologies.
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Holy crap forgot about this thread here. To answer a few of those orientation and parts questions before (im sure they have been answered but what the hey). Turbo is a stock vw Garrett T3 on a stock exhaust manifold. The flange on the turbo is a trapezoidal shape, not a regular rectangle like most garrett manifolds. As for the intake I would like to get a PD150 intake down the road because those look amazing.
Now for a few more pictures, progress has been slow now because the car is sitting in a tent, and well its winter.
(http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j67/zagarus/Coupe%20Rebuild/100_3317.jpg)
(http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j67/zagarus/Coupe%20Rebuild/100_3318.jpg)
(http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j67/zagarus/Coupe%20Rebuild/100_3319.jpg)
(http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j67/zagarus/Coupe%20Rebuild/100_3303.jpg)
(http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j67/zagarus/Coupe%20Rebuild/100_3320.jpg)
will have it running come spring time :D
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Looks good!!
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Correct, I think it should look as nice as the oil line...
Nice paint work...
GB
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starter is just for the initial priming and firing of the engine. will have a new one going in.
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PD150 intake on it's way! will be building one of these in the future for sure!!!
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Had the intake cleaned up nicely so it was time for a picture. Thanks ryanp!!!
(http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j67/zagarus/Coupe%20Rebuild/100_3342.jpg)
will post more pictures in the coming month once I have the coupe moved to its new location (somewhere with a concrete floor!!!!!)
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So will that PD150 intake clear the T3 / KKK24 turbo? 'cuz that seems like a super good way to go if so...
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yeah they will clear just as well as the stock TD intakes. much better for flow, these only prove to be a restriction on the TDi's over 250whp, should be fine for most then!!!!
this is the rear:
(http://i463.photobucket.com/albums/qq352/ryan-pak/Parts%20reference%20pics/Passatinletrear.jpg)
glad to know you are happy, the race pipes are nice aren't they!
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Mini update, have most of the parts needed to make this car live on the way, managed to get the alternator and pulley setup on and torqued down. Also got a new starter, still have one of the wiring harnesses to make nice and neat. Intake bolts on no problem, however a stock T3 will come in contact and not sit flush on the exhaust manifold. I will look into a spacer for in between the head and manifold. Anyway here are a few pictures of how it sits right now.
(http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j67/zagarus/Coupe%20Rebuild/0315001348.jpg)
(http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j67/zagarus/Coupe%20Rebuild/0315001348a.jpg)
(http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j67/zagarus/Coupe%20Rebuild/0315001349a.jpg)
I love a clean car with new goodies :D
(http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j67/zagarus/Coupe%20Rebuild/0315001349.jpg)
more to come in the following weeks, my goal is to have it idling before the end of March.
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hey zagarus, is this the same white jetta coupe that had the incedint with the ford taurus a while back???, becuase if it is i have to say, its looking dammned good. :)
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No the car that was in the accident was my old 4dr jetta, it was a complete writeoff. This is a coupe I picked up 3 weeks later ;D. Just been awhile to get going on it as i was waiting for an engine donor.
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Looking good! I can't wait to see video of the beast running. 8)
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The vortex proved useful in finding somewhere that makes manifold spacers.
http://weirtech.ca/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=13_28&products_id=178 (http://weirtech.ca/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=13_28&products_id=178)
8)
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I just got my bill from Extrude a hone for my plasma polishing for my PD130
330.00 ( dealer )
I will be happy to send a pic if you wish, They did a super job on my new AAZ head.
Gee-Bee
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sure post it up here or pm me. How much flow increase did they say it will produce?
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damn thats a sexy car! ;) Good job thus far!
How much does your shift weight weigh in at? looks like its close to 3.5lbs! lol its huge!! I went the ghetto strap a hunk of steel stock on to the rod :P
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Go find a mk3 with an o2o tranny. It's a stock part on them. Great upgrade for a mk2 :D
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cruised around and took some photos with a buddy in our dirty cars. Mine is the grey Carat.
(http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j67/zagarus/IMGP1306_fhdr.jpg)
(http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j67/zagarus/IMGP1313.jpg)
Wil also be doing a lot of work on the coupe tomorrow. Will try to finish up as much of the lighting wiring as I can, install radiator which showed up yesterday, hopefully my other brake pads arrive tomorrow which will allow me to get all the brakes installed. Then all thats left to do is get the oil cooler lines sorted out (need to get some fittings) install the turbo (once the manifold spacer shows up) and prime the fuel. Intercooler will be installed and whatnot after I have the car initially running. I really just want to hear this thing come to life.
Anyway will update with more pictures tomorrow :)
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I found with my build my oil temp barely changes. i got the cooler but never plumed it because my oil temps never rose... i guess if I were doing a hill climb or a rally i'd need one
nicely done. Your pictures really make me want to pull out my interior and lay down tons of sound proofing
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Apparently this fatmat is more for dampening then it is for sound proofing. Meaning hopefully fewer squeaks and creaks but more awesome diesel sounds! :D
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Slowly getting things done. It's amazing how many things go unnoticed once you start putting things back together. Like missing grommets, or damaged seals, or brake pads that don't fit :-\. Still plenty of work left ahead of me.
One thing that I found neat was the brake booster vacuum line from the pump. The original 1.9TD line did a huge massive loop up and over, looked ugly in my opinion. So while at the junkyard yesterday I noticed a mk3 gti 2.0l and its vacuum line. It ran nice and close to the head and turned 90 degrees into the front of the intake manifold. I thought to myself, "hmmmm if i just rotate it 90 degrees again it'll go straight down into the vacuum pump!" Low and behold its perfect! You can see in my pictures below. Other then that I just tinkered away at coolant hoses, wiring, and other small things while i wait for more parts.
(http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j67/zagarus/Coupe%20Rebuild/IMGP1328.jpg)
(http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j67/zagarus/Coupe%20Rebuild/IMGP1326.jpg)
Volvo oil cooler I will be using.
(http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j67/zagarus/Coupe%20Rebuild/IMGP1322.jpg)
Pump for my AWIC system.
(http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j67/zagarus/Coupe%20Rebuild/IMGP1327.jpg)
Metal housing and new parts! (Don't ask me why i'm so happy for a metal housing, just am)
(http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j67/zagarus/Coupe%20Rebuild/IMGP1319.jpg)
Well as you can see wiring is still being worked on but I should have that all lengthened and loomed up to my liking within the next few days of work. More to come!
8)
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im in kamloops quite often, could we meet up and you show me this masterpiece????? you can see my abomination of a car too.
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Sure would be sweet. Would have to be any day but a Sunday because the storage unit isn't open on Sundays :(
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PD150 intake on it's way! will be building one of these in the future for sure!!!
So how much does one of these cost? Would be really nice on my build as well.
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Metal housing and new parts! (Don't ask me why i'm so happy for a metal housing, just am)
Hell ya... metal housings rock. My daughters learned several new words back in the day of plastic housing. ;)
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Nice build.
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So I had a brilliant idea on how to relay my headlights.
At first I was going to use two of these (one for low beams one for high beams). They are fully weatherproofed relay holders I got from Lordco.
(http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j67/zagarus/Coupe%20Rebuild/IMGP1337.jpg)
But I didn't want to mount them in the engine bay because I'm trying to keep it nice and clean. So then I noticed a heated seat wiring harness I had laying around and went "hmmmmm!!"
(http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j67/zagarus/Coupe%20Rebuild/IMGP1335.jpg)
So now this means I will have an oem mount and location for my relays ;D
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Oh here's a question for the gurus. I used a vacuum hand pump to prime the fuel pump and the lines. Hooked it up to the return line and sucked fuel through the pump. Well my question is how can I get the injector lines primed without actually cranking the engine over? I tried sucking from the end of the tiny return lines that go from injector to injector but with no success. There must be a way.
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inline lift pump?
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There's not really any way I can think of to prime the injector lines WITHOUT cranking the engine over. Standard operating procedure is to loosen the injector lines at the injectors and crank the engine over till fuel seeps out. With the lines loosened the injectors won't reach their pop pressure so the engine won't start.
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ya that's how I did it last time. alright guess that will be how it's done then.
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Manifold spacer came in today as well as the pin for the fuel pump throttle cable. Managed to get the turbo and down pipe on, got the lighting wiring harness all sorted out (going to loom it up at home).
Another question for the gurus. The diesel tank I pulled from the wreckers was still full of diesel, now I don't know how long the car sat there but I do know for a fact that the fuel is pink. It kind of looks like grapefruit juice. Now would this have to do with it being really old diesel or is it possible it's marked diesel? All I know is im going to siphon as much out of the tank as I can and refill it with new stuff. Anyway on with the pictures (cell phone quality)
The much anticipated spacer (didn't need it quite this thick because it barely left me any threads for the nuts to grab.
(http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j67/zagarus/Coupe%20Rebuild/0322001329.jpg)
(http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j67/zagarus/Coupe%20Rebuild/0322001444.jpg)
WOOO TURBO!!
(http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j67/zagarus/Coupe%20Rebuild/0322001444a.jpg)
(http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j67/zagarus/Coupe%20Rebuild/0322001444b.jpg)
Ceramic coated downpipe (one made by Dave at PP long ago)
(http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j67/zagarus/Coupe%20Rebuild/0322001458.jpg)
(http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j67/zagarus/Coupe%20Rebuild/0322001514.jpg)
And a bit of intercooler mock up with pieces from my old setup (should work nicely, only need a few modifications :D)
(http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j67/zagarus/Coupe%20Rebuild/0322001447.jpg)
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alright so I was just told that the copper nuts are no good, the top of the collar needs to thread or else it will just rattle off. So exhaust studs are M8 x 35. The studs that hold the camshaft plates are M8 x 56. Me thinks I found a candidate for extended exhaust studs :) Will find out tomorrow when I go back to the car and "test"
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This is the extent of the wiring in the engine bay (I love mechanical diesels!). I still have a few things to add such as the relays harness for my headlights, few wires for gauges and that's about it. Notice how i have the turbo and manifolds off again...Ya that's because of the exhaust studs I had to replace because the stock ones are too short now with the manifold spacer.
(http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j67/zagarus/Coupe%20Rebuild/0324001059.jpg) (http://s77.photobucket.com/albums/j67/zagarus/Coupe%20Rebuild/?action=view¤t=0324001059.jpg)
New shiny radiator :D Sent the AC condenser and volvo oil cooler off to get flushed and pressure checked.
(http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j67/zagarus/Coupe%20Rebuild/0324001355.jpg) (http://s77.photobucket.com/albums/j67/zagarus/Coupe%20Rebuild/?action=view¤t=0324001355.jpg)
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Update:
Finally got the longer studs I needed in order to run the manifold spacer.
The longer studs are the ones used for the camshaft holder plates.
(http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j67/zagarus/Coupe%20Rebuild/IMGP1340.jpg)
Final result
(http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j67/zagarus/Coupe%20Rebuild/IMGP1341.jpg)
Final wiring harness loomed up
(http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j67/zagarus/Coupe%20Rebuild/IMGP1339.jpg)
Interior progress
(http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j67/zagarus/Coupe%20Rebuild/IMGP1348.jpg)
16V passat fan shroud
(http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j67/zagarus/Coupe%20Rebuild/IMGP1342.jpg)
cleaned, pressures tested, and fins straightened AC condenser (going to use for AWIC)
(http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j67/zagarus/Coupe%20Rebuild/IMGP1343.jpg)
And the "package" as it sits now
(http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j67/zagarus/Coupe%20Rebuild/IMGP1344.jpg)
(http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j67/zagarus/Coupe%20Rebuild/IMGP1349.jpg)
(http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j67/zagarus/Coupe%20Rebuild/IMGP1350.jpg)
(http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j67/zagarus/Coupe%20Rebuild/IMGP1351.jpg)
(http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j67/zagarus/Coupe%20Rebuild/IMGP1347.jpg)
Over the next two days I will try to get the rear brakes done (discs). Also will start to get the gauge wiring all sorted out as well as the relayed headlights (Got some 12gauge wire for those :D)
Thanks for looking.
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man every time im just STARING at that intake. drooolllzzz
next time im in loopsie im CALLING you - gimme yo digits yo! =D
i go there fairly often, i have a good friend there.
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Here is my relay harness for headlights all done with 12g wire soldered to the pins.
(http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j67/zagarus/Coupe%20Rebuild/IMGP1354.jpg)
Just waiting for a few more things for my gauges, still need to empty my tank of marked diesel (grrrr, stupid farm people), get the oil cooler system all done (just waiting on a couple fittings), and potentially get the Air side of my intercooler piping done so it will at least be able to boost properly upon initial startup. It is getting so close!
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i totally second making sure your boost will be working on start up just for smoking purposes and keeping the egt's cold on break in.
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well im just going to fire it up to at least hear it roar to life, but only for like a minute or two. next time it fires up wont be until its done and ready for break in driving.
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What are these copper nuts ive been seeing lately? Is there an advantage to using them? Where do you get them?
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well im just going to fire it up to at least hear it roar to life, but only for like a minute or two. next time it fires up wont be until its done and ready for break in driving.
Thats what i did but i regret it. I think i ruined my rings by letting it idle...
first run i think should be normal stop go driving around your block topping up the coolant.
and then just do gentle city driving with it for at least 500km...
i know it's SO hard to restrain but it will pay off. The rings will seat much faster and you can lay your foot into it.
you don't want to have to replace the rings because you let it idle and didn't put any load on the rings on start up.
I had to replace the rings very shortly after.
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What are these copper nuts ive been seeing lately? Is there an advantage to using them? Where do you get them?
they are self locking and corrosion resistant, so they dont vibrate loose, and are easy to remove in a few years(as they wont rust in place)
you should be able to get them at any auto parts supplier.
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well im just going to fire it up to at least hear it roar to life, but only for like a minute or two. next time it fires up wont be until its done and ready for break in driving.
Thats what i did but i regret it. I think i ruined my rings by letting it idle...
first run i think should be normal stop go driving around your block topping up the coolant.
and then just do gentle city driving with it for at least 500km...
i know it's SO hard to restrain but it will pay off. The rings will seat much faster and you can lay your foot into it.
you don't want to have to replace the rings because you let it idle and didn't put any load on the rings on start up.
I had to replace the rings very shortly after.
Gah ya I know. And considering it's been 2 years since I last drove my old diesel I think another month or two of waiting is ok. how about 20 sec of idle? Just to know it runs :P
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start it up make sure you have oil PSI and then rev the *** out of it...my .02
I know it's hard on the 1st start since you usually have some leaks and other bugs...but the less you idle it the better off you'll be IMO.
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I've been reading around on break in procedures and so far I have come across the "drive it hard right away" procedure and I have also found a "drive it gradually harder and harder" procedure. So far I like the idea of the drive it hard right away in order to seal the rings in the very short allotted time where the cylinder walls are still rough. Chances are i'll just drive it like I normally drive a car which is changing gears often and different loads.
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you don't want to drive too hard, as the rest of the moving parts are breaking in too.
but you want to stay away from constant engine speed and load, find a nice twisty back road and drive on it for a while(I don't like stop and go in town traffic for break in, because you can get stuck in traffic and be forced to idle)
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Z, hello. Very nice build, it shows that you do not to spend $10,000 in the engine compartment to have a clean and well performing package. If I may make a couple of observations, please do not construe what I say as harsh criticism, but. From the pictures, and that is all I can see, there are 2 things you might want to look at.
1. The apparent close proximity of the turbo drain tube and the exhaust manifold. It appears to be "too close for comfort". What can occur is Dodgeitis, where the hot manifold could actually burn some of the oil going back into the engine causing a breakdown of the oil, this heat can also cause Gel/Sludge/Crystallized Oil buildup in the tube.
2. The apparent close proximity of what I believe is the brake line to the right caliper and the Turbo, even if you are going to run Dot 5 Silicone fluid, it might be best to move the line or if not, get a turbine housing bag for insulating the turbo and some insulating wrap on the line. Oh and do not run Dot 5 Silicone fluid in an ABS system.
BlueMule
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Good criticism bluemule, and actually yes those are two things I would still like to address. As for the brake line to the right caliper there will be a heat shield that covers that, still have to find one, as for the oil drain line I guess I will need to get one refabbed up or see if I can space it away a bit more. How much room do you think would be acceptable?
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Hello Z. 3 inches minimum, since it is a turbo though, the farther the better. You can effectively increase the distance with insulation, an inexpensive turbo cover is about $40 and some 2" wrap is about $20. The ties for the wrap are cheap and easier to work with than hose clamps.
A suggestion would be to move the brake line down a bit, and then wrap it in insulation, that along with a turbo cover should be enough. As far as the drain is concerned, looking at the photo again it seems you are going to have to get one made up. I would suggest retaining the flexible part if possible, you can wrap the pipe with insulation also.
http://www.thermotec.com/full-product-line.html (http://www.thermotec.com/full-product-line.html)
BlueMule
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Mini update:
Got the oil cooler fabbed up with russel fittings and hoses (ain't cheap stuff). Still have to make a bracket to mount it securely but the way it is right now it won't be going anywhere. Also did some AWIC thinking and came to the conclusion that the AC condenser may not be sure a great idea. Here's why:
The bosch pump that I have is the same one used on Cobras and Lightnings, it is designed for Air Water systems.
(http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j67/zagarus/Coupe%20Rebuild/bosch_pump_picture.jpg)
Specs:
(http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j67/zagarus/Coupe%20Rebuild/bosch_specs.gif)
According to that at 0.3 Bar (roughly 5.3 psi) it can push 1200 litres/hour. In a straight pipe with a diameter of 17.2mm (diameter of pump inlet and outlet) water is flowing at 4.7ft/sec.
Used this for calculation ---> http://www.1728.com/flowrate.htm (http://www.1728.com/flowrate.htm)
Ok so that's nice but of course in a real world situation there will be bends and different medias (ie intercooler and radiator) that it has to pass through. Naturally my idea of using the AC condenser was good from an OEM direct bolt in perspective, but for optimum cooling it is not. To my understanding by having the water forced through a smaller diameter pipe ( i'll guess 8mm for the condenser) the pump would have to work extra hard in order to flow the same 1200 l/h in the 8mm as opposed to the 17.2mm of the pump. By using the same calculator and achieving the same flow velocity of 4.7ft/s the pump is actually only moving ~260l/h. I'd say that is one hell of a drop in performance.
So now im looking on www.frozenboost.com (http://www.frozenboost.com) again and noticed a few other radiator options they have. Once I get measurements of my car and figure out how much room I have to play with these would be my options:
Option 1 :
http://www.frozenboost.com/product_info.php?cPath=217&products_id=1062&osCsid=4f6258eda803ee581262be38b5ee6131 (http://www.frozenboost.com/product_info.php?cPath=217&products_id=1062&osCsid=4f6258eda803ee581262be38b5ee6131)
Option 2 :
http://www.frozenboost.com/product_info.php?cPath=217&products_id=1002&osCsid=4f6258eda803ee581262be38b5ee6131 (http://www.frozenboost.com/product_info.php?cPath=217&products_id=1002&osCsid=4f6258eda803ee581262be38b5ee6131)
Option 3 :
http://www.frozenboost.com/product_info.php?cPath=217&products_id=1063&osCsid=4f6258eda803ee581262be38b5ee6131 (http://www.frozenboost.com/product_info.php?cPath=217&products_id=1063&osCsid=4f6258eda803ee581262be38b5ee6131)
This would allow me to maintain a larger diameter sized hose between cooler, rad, pump, and resevoir. That and it would allow me to spend more money on russell fittings and hose (YAY...)
Feedback and ideas welcome on this. Did what I say make sense?
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oh ya and the oil cooler location.
(http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j67/zagarus/Coupe%20Rebuild/IMGP1358.jpg)
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Your flow through the AC condensor will not be the same velocity (ie. 4.7m/s). Depending on the pump curves and ratings, it will probably be nearer to the same flow rating at a higher velocity. If possible, I would suggest either asking the manufacturer about your intended use, or perform a test. Easy enough to pump a 20l pail of water through and time it. If you maintain a flow rate of more than about 2/3 of factory rating, the pump should be happy, and I'd think that 800l/h should meet your needs. If not, have you considered splitting the condensor into 2 or more parallel sections? Just de-solder one U in the middle, and push water into both those tubes and out the original inlet and outlet. To match up fairly well to your 17mm pump outlet, you'd have to run it as 4 parallel, that is de-solder 3 U's to create new inlets and outlets. This would actually give you a little more area inside the pipes than the 17mm, but you'd lose a little to friction, so it'd balance out about the same as one 17mm pipe.
good luck.
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Yes true, an 8mm diameter pipe flowing 1200 l/h is going 21.757ft/sec. I just assumed that by having the water transition from a larger diameter pipe to a smaller diameter that the pump would have to work extra hard in order to maintain the same flow. But like you said really the only good way to find out is to actually test it with a bucket of water and see how much comes out.
Another question, how would one go about de-soldering the u bends? I'm assuming a regular soldering iron wouldn't work would it lol.
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you can use a propane torch
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I ditched the AC condenser idea, ordered an aluminum rad from frozenboost.com, 24x12x1. Will cover just as much surface area as the condenser did only it'll be much better for fittings and all around flow (1/2NPT as opposed to the 7.5mm AC pipe diameter).
I also got my distributor box made up. Battery is located in the trunk and I decided to mount my power box where the ECU on a gasser car usually goes...The rain tray. It will be properly sealed up and mounted away from any grounding/shorting possibilities.
Box is from a mk4 vw.
(http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j67/zagarus/Coupe%20Rebuild/100_3353.jpg)
(http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j67/zagarus/Coupe%20Rebuild/100_3357.jpg)
Plenty of expansion for power options :D
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Blood flows through the veins once again!!! :D :D
Still have to get intercooler piping welded up, drain the tank of the marked diesel and fill with fresh diesel. Other then that she's close to breathing.
(http://s77.photobucket.com/albums/j67/zagarus/Coupe%20Rebuild/?action=view¤t=IMG_0001.flv)
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You sure are getting close. I can't wait to see it running. It's been a long time coming. 8)
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I love the angle of that camera shot.
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hows this project goin? looks unreal. makes me wanna sell my trans am and put all my money in my jetta!
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WEll I attempted to fire it up today, was 50% successful. I had everything primed (oil, fuel through pump) so the next step was to crank the engine over to get the injector lines primed. Got that all done so I became really excited because any time now it should fire up. It coughed a few times but never fired up and after warming up the starter significantly I called it a day. During a little cool down session I decided to check the glowplug system as I've had a problem with them before on my old diesel. As far as I could tell the system wasn't getting any power whatsoever. Not even off the red/white lead terminal off the back of the fuseblock. I didn't do much troubleshooting as I was running out of time but my relay is #60 (Slow or fast?). Anyone have any ideas what I could check? Will I have to take out the injectors and see if they glow? ( I shoulda done that beforehand, grrrrrr)
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Awesome build!
When i did mine i found my Gp's weren't working and it ended up i just had a bad ground at the relay.
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I think I may have figured it out. Looks like I might have a few wires mixed up on the fuseblock. According to the Bentley power from the battery should come in on the Y pins on the back of the block (they are located at the top right corner when looking at the block from the front). From there I should use a little jumper wire from pin 30 to 30B which should then give the glowplug relay full POWAH!! At the moment I have main power coming in on pin 30 only with the glowplug wire on pin Z1. BLLLAAARRRRGH!!! Stupid mistake.
(http://www.a2resource.com/electrical/images/CE2.gif)
Update tomorrow hopefully with video of it running!
And a couple recent update pictures:
Engine bay
(http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j67/zagarus/Coupe%20Rebuild/0423001333.jpg)
(http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j67/zagarus/Coupe%20Rebuild/0420001430.jpg)
(http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j67/zagarus/Coupe%20Rebuild/0420001430a.jpg)
Also got the lower firewall heatshield on, half the exhaust mounted (stops just in front of the rear beam) new oil cooler that DOESN'T leak mounted, and I'm still waiting on the AWIC fittings and lines.
Thanks for looking!
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As promised!
http://s77.photobucket.com/albums/j67/zagarus/Coupe%20Rebuild/?action=view¤t=IMG_0030.flv (http://s77.photobucket.com/albums/j67/zagarus/Coupe%20Rebuild/?action=view¤t=IMG_0030.flv)
;D ;D
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Looking for oil leaking. Classic! i do it every time :P
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Question for the masses:
As I have the pump built by Giles and set for 25psi, will it still be alright to break in the engine at the stock 9psi? Just until its been driven for a bit then turn it up in increments?
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It will be fine. I had mine on for break in and i just took it real easy (well except for the day i put a clutch spring through my tranny case) for a few weeks. I had my pump over built and as the stuff went on that i needed i would turn up the boost.
I remember noticing a large difference between my stock pump and giles' down low. It was great. Then it was broken in, boost turned up and i almost crapped myself between two corners. Yah Giles! :D
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(http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j67/zagarus/Coupe%20Rebuild/IMGP2117.jpg)
(http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j67/zagarus/Coupe%20Rebuild/IMGP2122.jpg)
(http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j67/zagarus/Coupe%20Rebuild/IMGP2124.jpg)
Little dusty from the paint shop
(http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j67/zagarus/Coupe%20Rebuild/IMGP2125.jpg)
8) 8) She's coming together nicely.
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Looking good.
You might want to disconnect the LDA while breaking it in.
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So the other day I went to remove one of the -12 fittings from my AWIC only to have it seize up and strip the threads >:( Thankfully I had another one lined up for down the road so this made for a perfect opportunity to upgrade.
(http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j67/zagarus/Coupe%20Rebuild/IMGP2144.jpg)
(http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j67/zagarus/Coupe%20Rebuild/IMGP2145.jpg)
Also got my battery, will install battery box next time I work on the car
(http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j67/zagarus/Coupe%20Rebuild/IMGP2139.jpg)
(http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j67/zagarus/Coupe%20Rebuild/IMGP2142.jpg)
And got my new power distributor block, with LED readout
(http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j67/zagarus/Coupe%20Rebuild/IMGP2141.jpg)
Rear end is good to go now that I got a replacement lock button (broke mine on the inside)
(http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j67/zagarus/Coupe%20Rebuild/IMGP2143.jpg)
(http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j67/zagarus/Coupe%20Rebuild/IMGP2127.jpg)
At this moment in time the front end is once again on jackstands while I want for my ball joint extenders and bump steer kit to arrive (might as well keep the car geometry proper as I do like to corner)
More update on saturday when I get to work on it again. Hoping to have it ready before a local car show on aug 7th. Wish me luck!
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man this is great, are you leaving just the air filter on the turbo?
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Great build...being the buzzard I am are you looking to get rid of the stirpped AWIC :D
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I'm going to leave the filter on the turbo just for now until I can get a pipe made up to move the filter down behind the foglight. As for the smaller AWIC I will hold onto it until I know the big one works fine with no issue. Keep reminding me about it and I may sell it. I have a 1/2 NPT tap so I will see if i can fix it.
On a side note unrelated to vw, I just got a complete 5spd drivetrain for my subaru legacy. Fun fun winter ahead :D
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you wouldn't happen to know how long your ebrake cables are would you?
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they would be the shorter ones. Earlier ebrakes had the cables mount somewhat in the middle of the handle. Mine are attached at the very end.
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(http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j67/zagarus/Coupe%20Rebuild/IMG00025.jpg)
Engine bay is complete!
Tomorrow is install new axle and ball joint bolts and down on the ground she goes ready to be sent off for an alignment!
Then break in! WOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO!!
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the vent on the crankcase will give bad smell to the interior...
i placed mine in front of the front wheel
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I figured it would be ok seeing as it is right beside the intake.
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i figured you'd have plumbed the intake to an area that wouldn't be so stinkin' hot ???
even with water to air intercooling, wouldn't you rather start off with colder air?
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I will be moving the intake to in front of the wheel. Just didn't have any pipe yet to make it. Figured once it is driveable I can bring it to my buddy to get something welded up.
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What a glorious day it was (despite being super smokey out)
(http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j67/zagarus/Coupe%20Rebuild/0731001236.jpg)
8) Thursday it's booked in for an alignment.
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Sweeeeeeet!
That looks awesome :o
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well done, looks awesome!
how bad is the fire out there, anyway?
haven't they asked for some people to leave their homes?
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^^ What they said... definitely one of the nicest mk2's around... and a coupe too!
Are you going to Great Canadian?
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Beautiful car sir!! :)
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Thats one sweet looking jetta :o
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Hey rado, no I won't be bringing it down to GCVW this year (Still a little too far to drive after just getting it on the road). Instead I have it signed up for a local car show along side a bunch of hondas and a sweet 370z. Will post pictures after this weekend as they will be some nice ones. 8)
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Finally get to enjoy what I've built!!! :)
(http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j67/zagarus/Coupe%20Rebuild/IMGP2392.jpg)
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Amazing work, I love the bay.
I was out in Kamloops for a soccer tourney a couple weekends back, could barely see across the valley because of the smoke. Things looking better out there now?
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ya its cleared up, getting some rain right now.
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So.... how does it run? As you expected? If you ever have problems with your car and are near Merritt, my home garage is open for any repairs you might need. I also have a pit and a roof mounted chain block which makes some things a little easier. Very nice build by the way!
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Great job. I don't know how you did it so fast. I kind of hate that you could do that working in a storage unit and I have a barn and cant get done. Please post vids to keep us motivated.
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She is running pretty well. Better than I expected for only 600km so far. Only issue is I appear to have oil leaks from the oil pan gasket and potentially the rear main seal :(. Guess that gives me something to do this winter. EGT's are slower getting cooler and don't creep up so fast anymore when I push the pedal. Tomorrow I am getting the fuel pump properly timed so hopefully that helps. Also for some reason oil temps are insanely hot, highway cruisin yesterday they were a steady 270F :o. And that is with my oil cooler showing half of itself in the front bumper. I'm going to move it behind the grille so the entire cooler gets airflow. But all in all she is driving fine, boosting stock 9psi right now, will go 25psi once I've driven more then 3000km.
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Is that an aftermarket or OEM oil temp gauge? That sounds absurdly high for these engines. I had a GTI with an MFA and my oil temp was showing some funky yet almost believable numbers. It ended up being a voltage regulator in the cluster itself. Turning my lights on/off changed my oil temp by 20deg C ;)
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it's an autometer oil temp gauge and sensor.
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So what are you doing about the breather system?
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How are you liking the AWIC?
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I'll find out soon enough, just got it working yesterday after waiting for some new fittings due to a leak. EGT's seem to be a lot cooler now.
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AWIC seems to help alot in keeping the EGTS low. They do climb high when i really romp on the pedal but they drop even faster. I also got to eager and installed my boost controller the other night and left it where it was on my old car...25psi. All I can say is holy smokes!!!!!!!! Less smoke, EGTs are down a lot, the sound is incredible and the pull is nuts!!! As for cruising on the highway at 100kph on level ground EGTs are about 550F, boost is between 1-2psi, oil temps roughly around the 220F mark (Still trying to get them down). This car pulls just as hard uphill, its crazy!!!!!
I'll make a video tonight of some pulls and i'll have a few more pictures to show after tonight. I am very happy with this car ;D
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Cool beans... did you end up running a fan on the AWIC radiator? I'd love to see pics of some of your plumbing / pump / reservoir etc if you have them....
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Well it's been awhile since I got to play around with the car so here is a mini update:
March 5th I pulled the car out of hibernation so I could move it to its new home
(http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j67/zagarus/Coupe%20Rebuild/IMG_3083.jpg)
Upon arrival I immediately got busy
(http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j67/zagarus/Coupe%20Rebuild/IMG_3101.jpg)
Issues I needed to resolve include but not limited to:
- Oil pan gasket leaks
- Valve cover leaks
- Oil flange leaks
- More F$^#ing oil leaks
- Broken pressure plate (too much torque + ***ty sachs quality = BOOM!)
- Redo AWIC piping (had a couple pinches that killed water flow)
- Attempt to solve timing belt shaving issue (hopefully was just the tension pulley)
- Install bump steer kit
- Install oil filter relocate kit and larger oil cooler
- Get injectors rebuilt with new nozzles to 155bar
- And for fun bought a Nardi/Personal wheel with Nothelle horn button :D
I haven't been taking any pictures ( i really should have) but here is the new oil cooler mounted. 3/4 of it is behind the bumper but I need to find a slim fan to help cool that area. Air still has plenty of room to flow in front of the whole thing so we will see how it performs.
(http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j67/zagarus/Coupe%20Rebuild/IMG00136-20110407-1314.jpg)
Here it is as of yesterday while my buddy installs his Westy front end with homemade badgeless grille
(http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j67/zagarus/Coupe%20Rebuild/IMG00137-20110407-1654.jpg)
Here it is as of today back on the ground
(http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j67/zagarus/Coupe%20Rebuild/IMG00138-20110408-1828.jpg)
Annnnnd this is me getting into the F1 spirit with the Malaysian Gran Prix happening this weekend :)
(http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j67/zagarus/Coupe%20Rebuild/IMG00135-20110406-1756.jpg)
Goal is to have it running (at this point will be as soon as the rest of the parts I ordered arrive) before Spring Unsprung down in Vancouver. Cruise test!!!
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Got the car fired up today, once again very loud, might have to check my timing again (ugh). In other news the car doesn't move! How excited am I? Oh about this excited... I can put it in first, release the clutch and car just idles away, looks like tomorrow will be spent pulling the tranny from underneath the car (not looking forward to that again). I'm hoping it's just the wrong clutch spline or something because nothing has changed since I took it apart except for new centerforce PP and clutch. Why would it be the wrong clutch I wonder? Well that's what I'm going to find out and then I'll know if I'm to blame, or there is someone else I can get mad at lol. Will take pictures tomorrow.
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Hi Zargus, Just wondering how you resolved your timing belt getting shaved? Do you know there is a service bulletin regarding this issue? It involves loosening the 3 bolts for the injection pump bracket and pushing one way or the other depending on which way the belt is running away. I can send you a copy if you like - let me know. Also make sure you tension the belt correctly - if you over tighten it, you will take out your injection pump bushing. I use the proper tool to tension my belt now after I learned the hard way!
-Don
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Yes a link to the shaved belt info would be much appreciated! Also found out the transmission problem...Wrong clutch. Got a 28spline 16v clutch instead of a 24spline 8v clutch. Both are 210mm but the 8v is a 13/16 center and the 16v is a 7/8 center. My bad for not doing the proper research but I assumed they were the same because my old Sachs kit was labelled as a 16V HD upgrade. Bastards.
And so there is no confusion I am running the 8V gasser flywheel from the original engine from the coupe.
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Finally out and driving, man this thing is a gokart!!! Looks like I have all the leaks under control, haven't spotted anything as of late. Oh ya and oil temps and coolant temps are waaaaaaaaaaaaaay down!!! Unbelieveably cool actually, will be perfect when the hotter summer temps hit I'm so happy!!!
Anyways spur of the moment pictures. Only issue still is the radiator for my AWIC actually got buggered up during winter so it's currently not flowing any water until replacement arrives. No bigs I just won't hit 25psi until then lol, but 15 is still fine :P
(http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j67/zagarus/Coupe%20Rebuild/IMG_3160.jpg)
(http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j67/zagarus/Coupe%20Rebuild/IMG_3172.jpg)
(http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j67/zagarus/Coupe%20Rebuild/IMG_3166.jpg)
(http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j67/zagarus/Coupe%20Rebuild/IMG_3182.jpg)
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I love this car so much.
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8) stylin', probably one of my all time favourite mark 2's
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Took the car on a little hwy roadtrip north to Clearwater, oil temps were 185F on level ground cruising at 110kph and coolant temps were around 165F. Thats ~80C for oil and `73C for coolant. Looks like I'm ready for the hot summer days :D
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Isn't the AAZ supposed to have an 87 deg C thermostat? Or did you install a cooler thermostat? If it maintans a pretty constant coolant temeperature, I would suggest going higher with the thermostat if it is less than 87C. These engines like to be hotter that what you are running based on my experience.
The car is looking great! How did you make out with the timing belt? Also, what static timing are you running? I'm interested to know what you are running with the Giles pump.
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I installed a 70C thermostat and the timing belt issue is all fixed, belt stays to the inside and isn't shaving away. I set the pump timing to 1.02 and she's driving like a dream. Car should run a bit warmer once I get the AWIC rad back in, but I'm just getting ready for those 40C days 8)
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okay, i gotta know....
what radiator is that, and where can I get it?!
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which rad are you referring to? The engine rad is a factory rad with approx 50/50 G12 coolant and water with the 70C thermostat. The rad for my AWIC is the one you see in some of the previous pics and I'm also running G12 and water in that. Got it from frozenboost.com and its the 24x12x1 rad.
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which rad are you referring to? The engine rad is a factory rad with approx 50/50 G12 coolant and water with the 70C thermostat. The rad for my AWIC is the one you see in some of the previous pics and I'm also running G12 and water in that. Got it from frozenboost.com and its the 24x12x1 rad.
dang, i thought you had a full aluminum engine rad.
however the AWIC rad is slick. and If i were to run more boost then I'd consider an intercooler....looks slick. the set up is NICE.
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Well I have some good news and some bad news this time.
Bad news is better explained with pictures:
(http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j67/zagarus/IMG_4423.jpg)
(http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j67/zagarus/IMG_4413.jpg)
The good news is also explained with a picture:
(http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j67/zagarus/IMG00193-20110710-1232.jpg)
For those that can't see very well the top pictures would show what happens when a pre-chamber becomes loose and rattles about until it drops and goes BOOM!! The final picture is the car taken apart again with a replacement 1.9TD block sitting on the floor :D I don't give up easily even after all the crap this car has put me through already. At the moment progress is a little slow as I live in Vancouver now while the car is up in Kamloops. On a somewhat optimistic side the machine shop that did the work on my head is no longer in business. This means others will not suffer the same fate as I did as well as a buddy who had the same thing happen.
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turn that engine around 180* and mount it that way..
RWD would be pimpin..
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I feel so bad for you. I was worried to no end that this would happen to me with mine. Still am somedays. Looks like it beat around quite a bit, was there any bad noises or that is just how fast it happens?
Hope the best for you and this car.
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oddly enough i wasn't driving it when it happened. My buddy who was driving it at the time said it made terrible noises and was having a hard time moving along. EGT's were really high trying to maintain 90kph. Then he pulled over and shut it off, tried to start it again and it did but made awful noises so he turned it off and left it. Then it wouldn't crank over because of the pre chamber bits that were jammed in the combustion chamber. I had a bad feeling when I brought my head to the shop that did the work as the same thing had happened to another buddy not to long before. OH well it'll be back soon enough. Gotta keep on dieseling!! 8)
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how does that rod bearing look? it almost looks more like something let the piston hit the head
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Is that a radiator the head is sitting on? That isn't that good for it is it?
If you need a good guy for the next engine then Air Cooled Engines Plus in Tiffin, Ohio does excellent work.
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oddly enough i wasn't driving it when it happened. My buddy who was driving it at the time said it made terrible noises and was having a hard time moving along. EGT's were really high trying to maintain 90kph. Then he pulled over and shut it off, tried to start it again and it did but made awful noises so he turned it off and left it. Then it wouldn't crank over because of the pre chamber bits that were jammed in the combustion chamber. I had a bad feeling when I brought my head to the shop that did the work as the same thing had happened to another buddy not to long before. OH well it'll be back soon enough. Gotta keep on dieseling!! 8)
As the one driving the car and hearing horror stories of prechambers dropping, this was a very anticlimactic way to kill the engine. At first it felt more like an under fuel condition, started gradually losing speed, egts starting going up, engine noise a little louder. All got increasingly worse so I limped it to the first exit I could. The rest is obviously, presented.
As far as the piston hitting the head, Im pretty sure the piston is missing a good 1/8th inch off of the top of it. The exhaust turbine shows...
What you cant see in the pictures are the hair line cracks in the head at the remaining three cylinders from the prechambers to the valves. Inspect those heads yo!
Glad to hear you're still excited about it though thomas. Was getting a little worried there.
Also, thats the old water rad for the awic. Had water in it over the winter and cracked, so its junk anyways.
Cas
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^ The man speaks truth. My motivation for this car goes up and down quite dramatically but in the end it always comes down to having the car because it's a blast to drive.
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Well now, this here be my build thread. At least for now.
I've been putting work in on the engines after school and work lately as zagarus is working out of town for the next little while and doesnt have time to work on it.
So Update time!
So far this week, the old engine has been stripped of internals and set aside for the "new" engine. Next week I'll be taking the crank from the blown engine and having it swapped into the "new" block as I'm told the one that currently resides in it wobbles like a 3 legged cat.
I also took the liberty of removing the head from the "new" engine to inspect it personally. Would you guess what I found? Prechambers cracked from mouth, 3/4 of the way to the opposite side! Under some heavy boost and fuel, this head would have suffered the same fate as the original. So I'll talk to the machine shop and see what they can do about new 1.9idi prechambers. Other than that, the head appears to be in great shape. The cracks between valves are very small and there doesnt appear to be any reaching from the prechamber from the valves, so thats the good news.
Stay tuned!
Cas
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Block, head and crank dropped off at the machine shop today via the trusty Carat.
Even toms old cars help build his new cars.
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I am reliving this for you now. I have torn down most of the 1.6 in the car and torn down one aaz and my other 1.6 bottom end. So far they look brand new on the bottom. I was seriously hoping nothing like this would happen to me or anyone else.
My reason for bringing this up is to ask, this was a 1.9L right? I was thinking that the precups falling were only a problem on the 1.6 engine. Also, did you end up getting it back on the road?
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loose precups can plague any IDI engine..
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car is unfortunately still not on the road. Lack of a workspace has limited what I can do. The new managers at the storage place where the car is don't really like people working on vehicles there. All that needs to be done is a new bottom end rebuilt. Got a new block that will get bored out to the first oversize and going to buy one new piston to replace the mangled one. Already have a new turbo built from two and a new head is already done. Winter and lack of time are what really slow me down, plus I just got a new toy so the jetta is sort of on the back burner.
I did set a goal to have it ready for Spring Unsprung in Vancouver so we will see.
cheers
(http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j67/zagarus/Coupe%20Rebuild/IMG_3741.jpg)
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Sweet. At least it will be going soon. My personal opinion is if you pay for space then it is yours. Now out in front of that space maybe different. If I owned it and wanted that policy then I would put it in writting, but the ones who were in before then they should be allowed as the old ownership had a policy.
Good luck, I hope too to have mine done before spring.
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If you go inside your storage box and close the door... to where they cannot see you doing work.. would that work? That is what I would do.. lol However.. maybe there is no power in there to have lights? Crap.
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I can still make it work. I did attempt a swap late last year already, did it in a weekend. The husband of the couple that manage the place was the one who told me I'm not really allowed to work on cars there. He eventually sympathized with me as he used to be a heavy duty mechanic back in the day. He even came by later in the day and brought us water, he just warned to not let his wife catch us lol. Reason the car is still a no go is because for some reason there was an incredible amount of resistance in the crank. It would not turn over at all and when hand turning it you had to put the weight of two people on a 3 ft breaker bar just to make it budge. Something is wrong inside so I said eff it, full rebuild again it is. I'm ok with that, at least I get to still use my pistons I paid for in the original build.
Depending how ballsy I plan on getting with this car still I may ditch the AWIC setup and get a Rallye FMIC setup. Some major coin for that but you can't beat OEM.
I leave you with another picture of epicosity.
(http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j67/zagarus/Coupe%20Rebuild/IMG_3763.jpg)
For anyone interested this is the new toy I spoke of. 1996 Subaru Impreza WRX STI. Comes with the EJ20K engine packing ~300hp and 253ft/lbs 8)
(http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j67/zagarus/Subaru%20Impreza%20STI/IMG_0001.jpg)
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I haven't heard what is up with this one. I would love to know if anything is.
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Late reply but the engine is currently at the machine shop, final piece of the puzzle then my friend and I are going to blitz through the rebuild sometime this fall. I miss my jetta so much!
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Looking good!
I love your attention to detail on this car...
BTW, can you tell me your wheel/tire specs? ET?
Looks like that's a nice combo on a mk2.
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the wheels are Riken Hammers, 15x7, high ET I think somewhere 40+ (not sure exactly). Tires are 195/50/R15.
I can't wait to get this thing going again. 8)
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Mini update: Feb 18th 2013
Just spoke to my machine shop and the bottom end is expected to be done before the end of the month! :)
The head/turbo and pretty much everything else is ready to go so once I pick up the bottom end and find a weekend to head up to Kamloops I'll be getting the coupe back on the road!! Can't believe it's already been two years since the engine self destructed!
I'll update with pictures once I begin working on it again. I won't be changing too much right away but I do have my freshly painted BBS RS with wider lips and gold bolts that I'd like to put on this year. I'm also debating about changing my intercooler setup and seeing about going with a Rallye front mount intercooler. I see them on ebay for ~300-600euro's so we shall see. The AWIC is nice, but at the same time far more tedious to deal with.
It'll be nice to hear the whooshy zoot noise once again :)
Cheers
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The AWIC is nice, but at the same time far more tedious to deal with.
Say Whutt?
What is different?? Other than less boost tubing and a neater setup? lol ;) ALSO, you will never find an AAIC that will do as good a job as an AWIC eh, eh ? Think about it lol.
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I know it seems longer than 2 years. I hope my project doesn't go more than this summer. Good job at keeping at it.
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Received a call from the machine shop yesterday, engine is ready :D Just have to find time to go pick it up! Uber excited, time to buy all the gaskets! I can't wait to hear this thing again *Insert giddy grin here*
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I wish we had a like button.
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The good part is that putting it all back together will only take me a weekend. The bad part is I won't be able to drive it home for a bit because of the Coquihalla Highway. I'm not chancing any rock chips. It will probably have to stay in Kamloops until end of March, mid April. No rush though :) Need to break in the engine anyway before going on a 4 hr highway cruise.
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So are you still considering selling your AWIC setup? Could you PM me if so?
Either way, this is a beautiful example of a MK2, and shell definitely be a sooty show-stopper wherever you go.
I know how it is waiting a number of YEARS for an engine build.
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Thanks for the kind words, I'll give the AWIC another chance, I just need to revamp it still and make a resevoir for it, should make it easier to deal with. I do have the small exchange unit. I just have to retap one of the inlets and it's good to go. It's the smaller non painted core if you go back through my pictures. I could sell that one cheap if you'd like, You'd have to take care of the rest though (ie heat exchanger, hoses, pump, etc)
Will be updating thread as I make progress :)
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Completely forgot about this. This was before the engine came out for a second time due to broken pressure plate (you can hear it scraping at the beginning before I release the clutch).
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8Z_HE2kl-uY&list=UUmsXQRzePA7jE8-I2YVkprg&index=2
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Started work on the rebuild yesterday, started with this this morning:
(http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j67/zagarus/906978_10152708802200096_1588430175_o_zps9050f11b.jpg)
Finished the day with this:
(http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j67/zagarus/884404_10152709400380096_1959712236_o_zps9aa9f601.jpg)
Tomorrow I'll hook everything up and make sure I didn't miss anything and finally start it up!!
What would everyone recommend I run for timing?
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I actually have seen that video before on youtube before now. NOW I remember this car better!
Great to see it finally back together again. Don't really have recommendations for pump timing, though; haven't done it yet.
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Looks like from the pictures you are using a full 1.9 pump.. They suggest a factory setting of 0.80 +/- 0.02 mm, but that is a little low for real life lol.
I have my AAZ timed up above .95mm I am sure.
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Well she sort of lives as of today!
The car fires up after waiting for the glow plugs, seems to idle properly for a few seconds then it slowly gets more and more rough before dying. There is no throttle response from the pump. I can't see it being a timing issue as im pretty sure I did everything correctly (will double check tomorrow again). Other possible theories include, 2 year old diesel in tank, fuel pump sitting on shelf for almost two years (maybe a little gunked up inside). Other then that everything else engine wise is brand new.
I'm going to check my timing once more and possible run some diesel purge through the pump. AT this point I'm a little bummed out it didnt come to life more smoothly but on the bright side it saw it's first glimpse of life in a long time :)
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Here's what it did. Anyone have any ideas? *CLICK PICTURE FOR VIDEO*
(http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j67/zagarus/th_20130324_175536_zps10e1c78b.jpg) (http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j67/zagarus/20130324_175536_zps10e1c78b.mp4)
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Smells like air getting the fuel ,or unable to escape to me, not that some slippy stuff won't help everything.
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Starting, no throttle and then stalling is pretty much text-book air in the fuel pump. If it cannot pull more fuel in to replace what you have burned, it stalls. It cannot rev up if there is only enough available to idle the pump either.
You more than likely have a fuel line leak, letting air in.
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Did you use new washers for your fuel line banjos on your pump? Did you try taking off your fuel tank cap to see if it could pull fuel then? New fuel filter/hoses/lines?
Lift pump?
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I think air as well, but how long has the pump sat? Could be a little stick in the vanes?
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it sat for almost two years :\ My guess is also on the pump being gunked up a bit. Think I might send it and the injectors to Giles to take a look at for me. Sound like a good idea or is there something I can do?
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Leave it sit with ATF or diesel purge in it for a few days.
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Fuel pump and injectors sent to Giles. Now to wait and see what actually was wrong.
This is how things have been for me between my Jetta and my Sti:
(http://images.lazygamer.net/2012/10/shut-up-and-take-my-money.jpg)
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I understand completely. You have been down longer than me IIRC. My cylinder head is going to have its birthday at the machine shop next month. That is all I am waiting on. Looks like you will be up an running soon.
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here's hoping! Goal is to have it for our annual Spring Unsprung Cruise here in the Lower Mainland. I have about one month to get this car finished and broken in enough to drive the Coquihalla Highway. There is light at the end of the tunnel.
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Fuel pump had to be completely rebuilt as it was gunked up down in the transfer pump :(. But now the pump is cleaned, back together, built for 25-30psi and all injectors are clean as well. She will drive this weekend :)
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This is how things have been for me between my Jetta and my Sti:
Why does this sound familiar? Right... my Subie threw a tantrum when I bought my mk1 project. Glad to hear you're nearing completion!
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Well the car finally drives, albeit vibrates my teeth out but I still love it. Have one leaky injector, either its the return lines (which i've replaced) or the injector body needs to be re-torqued.
Everything seems to be order at the moment, but I do have a considerable amount of clutch slip. Which is odd because I have a brand new centerforce PP and clutch (upgraded PP too). It never did this before as I did use this clutch for the last 4000km of driving. Either it's getting contaminated somehow or whatever Giles did to my pump it increased the torque to an astronomical level :D.
At this point I can only drive around at %50 throttle without glazing my clutch to kingdom come :/
Any one have any suggestions for a stronger clutch kit for the O2O tranny?
PS I'm bringing the car down to the Coast tomorrow, should be a fun highway drive! Will post pics as soon as I sort out the leaks and clean the car up a bit :)
ttyl
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AWESOME! Great to hear she's finally on the way to getting done again. Hopefully you just need to torque that injector down and check timing before the car tries to rattle the bolts loose. As far as the clutch, Spec Clutch does kits that go up to 460 Ft-Lbs on their stage 5 (racing obviously, but shows that they have good selection).
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Clutch that will hold 450+ but a trans that won't hold 250+ haha.
They do have superior selection though, you are right. I will probably look at one before I go 02A.
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Clutch that will hold 450+ but a trans that won't hold 250+ haha.
They do have superior selection though, you are right. I will probably look at one before I go 02A.
Always make your connection points stronger than the things they connect. :)
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with this clutch slip I can't even hit above 18psi! I will say this, the power comes on HARD.
I may have to get my O2A rebuilt and with an LSD as this rate. But that will have to be for next year.
My two kids finally meet :)
(http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j67/zagarus/903800_10152781870450096_1645536246_o_zps3680561f.jpg)
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Had a chance to take her for a cruise. A little diesel still leaking from injector, a bit of coolant from the return nipple on the top (need a new plug)and a bit of oil from my catch can. Other then that she's driving great! Oh and minus the slipping clutch, which i've come to terms with for the time being, guess i'll have to settle with 15psi and going easy on the pedal lol.
(http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j67/zagarus/Coupe%20Rebuild/473184_10152796113885096_205037777_o_zps05b1315a.jpg)
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Saved to wallpaper folder. Nice to see her back again.
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That white is so clean. I normally don't go for white, but I really like yours, and the old one. Stay away from that intersection and old ladies.
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Haha noted! It was great crusing around downtown. The echo off the buildings, the whistle. It was unbelieveable it had me grinning from cheek to cheek the entire time :D It really is a great cruising car and equally fun on the highway. Never have to downshift to pass people. The local Dubberz Spring Unsprung cruise is this sunday so I will be sure to post up a few pictures from the day. Should be well over 150 cars turning out for it.
Thanks for everyone's support, glad to have her back.
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Pretty sure I broke another Pressure plate...
Oh well! On with a few pictures from this weekends Spring Unsprung cruise in Vancouver! Had a great day 8)
(http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j67/zagarus/Coupe%20Rebuild/8693397381_3b01f7670b_b_zps89b308c1.jpg)
(http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j67/zagarus/Coupe%20Rebuild/465770_10152808702830096_1184416702_o_zps4cf2cf32.jpg)
Looks like it's time to crack out the o2a.
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Looks like it's time to crack out the o2a.
If you want to keep your rod linkage, this site (http://www.clausvonessen.de/pi38/pd648.html (http://www.clausvonessen.de/pi38/pd648.html)) has a rod shift conversion kit for the MK1 Rabbbit that should work for a MK2 also, since their shift mechanisms are similar. I have a whole conversion list, again for a mK1, but lists of part #s and stuff that will work if you are looking to run/rod shift w/ cable clutch on a mk2. Hit me up and I'll PM you it if you want.