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Engine Specific Info and Questions => IDI Engine => Topic started by: TurboJ on November 03, 2008, 05:57:44 am
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Let me introduce my project car, and a story of how things get seriously out of hand.
I bought this '91 Jetta 1.6 TDIC last summer and the idea was to just fix it a little bit and maybe see what the engine pumps out with all stock parts.
Here's how the poor thing looked when I first got it:
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/IMG_3178.jpg)
...alas, with the 'little fixing' I got slightly carried away:
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/IMG_3379.jpg)
...this is how it sits now. Or in truth, after this pic was taken, even the very last techical bits have been removed and stripped down.
So, what originally was supposed to be just minor repair and detailing, has now turned into a full overhaul. And naturally, the parts that will be replaced must also be made better in the process.
This little rust bucket has covered some 470 thousand kms (about 295 k miles), so to be honest, an overhaul is of course due.
The car has had quite a colourful history, having been, among other things, used as a driving school car for the first years. When stripping the car down it did have a few interesting surprises in store. For example, some 10 kilos of unnecessery wires were removed along with a full NMT kit! 8)
At this point it has become quite clear what I want to do with this thing.
Style-wise, I will be implementing 'OEM+" and 'Old school' ideas, and trying to make this into a usable car that has the edge over modern equivalents in the performance department.
I won't be satisfied with the engine until it makes at least 2.5 times the original output (!), that being 80 hp / 59 kW of an original Golf GTD SB-engine that the car has been retro-fitted with. That may prove to be a challenge as it's my intention to try and retain most of the car's reliability... Obviously the car will also have to be able to go round cornerns and stop well.
I will be updating this topic while the work takes progress.
Any questions, comments or other feedback will be most welcome!
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Rust is going to be a major concern here.
The car had been repainted quite nicely a couple of years ago, but somehow the then-owner had completely ignored any rust repairs prior to painting. So wherever I looked, rust had taken hold of the areas below the surface that looked pretty OK still.
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Kori/th_IMG_3446.jpg) (http://s232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Kori/?action=view¤t=IMG_3446.jpg)(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Kori/th_IMG_3364.jpg) (http://s232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Kori/?action=view¤t=IMG_3364.jpg)(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Kori/th_IMG_3286.jpg) (http://s232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Kori/?action=view¤t=IMG_3286.jpg)
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Kori/th_IMG_3269.jpg) (http://s232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Kori/?action=view¤t=IMG_3269.jpg)(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Kori/th_IMG_3266.jpg) (http://s232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Kori/?action=view¤t=IMG_3266.jpg)
The smoke screen equipment:
To replace the car's original 'Eko-TD' engine, an SB engine had found a home under the bonnet. That's to say an intercooled 1.6 TD with 80 stock horse power. It wasn't up to it's former glory though as the car struggled to do 100 mph...
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Tekniikka/th_IMG_3149.jpg) (http://s232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Tekniikka/?action=view¤t=IMG_3149.jpg)(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Tekniikka/th_IMG_3213.jpg) (http://s232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Tekniikka/?action=view¤t=IMG_3213.jpg)
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Tekniikka/th_IMG_3215.jpg) (http://s232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Tekniikka/?action=view¤t=IMG_3215.jpg)(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Tekniikka/th_juhannus2008015.jpg) (http://s232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Tekniikka/?action=view¤t=juhannus2008015.jpg)
The stock turbocharger was a water cooled T2 that of course had nice spool-up, but that really did run out of puff over 1 bar (14 psi).
A bigger one was in order then...
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(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Tekniikka/th_IMG_3281.jpg) (http://s232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Tekniikka/?action=view¤t=IMG_3281.jpg)(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Tekniikka/th_IMG_3270.jpg) (http://s232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Tekniikka/?action=view¤t=IMG_3270.jpg)(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Tekniikka/th_IMG_3261.jpg) (http://s232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Tekniikka/?action=view¤t=IMG_3261.jpg)
The original injection pump with the stock 9 mm head was sold on.
The second picture shows an OE KKK K24 turbo. That was supposed to go in, but after some thought it was decided to be too small still.'It's how it always goes: Once you start to tear things down and start finding replacement parts, your power goal just soars and the things you first got won't cut it after all...
Third picture shows the original down pipe with connection to the exhaust system. What a straw! Not recommended.
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Tekniikka/th_IMG_3278.jpg) (http://s232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Tekniikka/?action=view¤t=IMG_3278.jpg)
One of the few positive things about this project was the engine block.
The engine itself had far less miles on it than the car itself, but it had even been overhauled recently. 15 k kms ago it had been rebored and fitted with 0.5 mm oversize pistons. Well, that's at least one problem less...
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Tekniikka/th_IMG_3307.jpg) (http://s232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Tekniikka/?action=view¤t=IMG_3307.jpg)(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Tekniikka/th_IMG_3311.jpg) (http://s232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Tekniikka/?action=view¤t=IMG_3311.jpg)(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Tekniikka/th_IMG_3314.jpg) (http://s232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Tekniikka/?action=view¤t=IMG_3314.jpg)
The new 'hi-po' engine was a go with a nice layer of paint to do first:
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Tekniikka/th_IMG_3327.jpg) (http://s232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Tekniikka/?action=view¤t=IMG_3327.jpg)
..and this is how it turned out.
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So we have begun our attack against the rust monster.
Battles have been fierce and for a while it seemed like the enemy was winning...
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Kori/th_IMG_3349.jpg) (http://s232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Kori/?action=view¤t=IMG_3349.jpg)(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Kori/th_IMG_3375.jpg) (http://s232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Kori/?action=view¤t=IMG_3375.jpg)(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Kori/th_IMG_3359.jpg) (http://s232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Kori/?action=view¤t=IMG_3359.jpg)
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Kori/th_IMG_3373.jpg) (http://s232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Kori/?action=view¤t=IMG_3373.jpg)(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Kori/th_IMG_3342.jpg) (http://s232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Kori/?action=view¤t=IMG_3342.jpg)(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Kori/th_IMG_3358.jpg) (http://s232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Kori/?action=view¤t=IMG_3358.jpg)
The A-pillars had been rusted through on both sides.
Also the bases of both front and rear screen were wreck.
Let's see if I can muster up enough courage to see how the floor looks like!
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Kori/th_IMG_3365.jpg) (http://s232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Kori/?action=view¤t=IMG_3365.jpg)(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Kori/th_IMG_3265.jpg) (http://s232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Kori/?action=view¤t=IMG_3265.jpg)(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Kori/th_IMG_3286.jpg) (http://s232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Kori/?action=view¤t=IMG_3286.jpg)
To everybody's surprise there were even some un-damaged places left on the bodywork. Even so, I'll be very happy if we can get this thing to the paint shop before the year is over. As for the new colour - it'll be the same coulur actually! Tornado Rot all the way.
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Now on to the interesting bits :)
Originally, the engine was only supposed to be upgraded on the turbo and exhaust departments. But you know how it always goes...
Before I knew it, my power goal had grown from 130 hp to 150 hp and finally 200 hp...
So all sanity was left behind and we set to build a true 'monstah' with my friend Aki, at whose garage the following pics were taken.
Here's some of the main ingredients:
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Tekniikka/th_11102008135.jpg) (http://s232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Tekniikka/?action=view¤t=11102008135.jpg)
...On the back ground you can see Aki's own 1.9 TD project engine that in it's latest incarnation pumped out 260 horsepower with both a blower and a turbo (!) Now he's gonna put in a multi-valve head and twin turbos... you know, the usual.
As for my engine, this is the recipe we will be following:
1.6 TD block with 0.5 mm oversize pistons (SB-block)
1.9 AAZ head, ported and combustion chamber smoothed out
AAZ-camshaft with 'R-koneistus' reground profile
AAZ three-layer head gasket
Aki-design special head studs and nuts
1.9D (1Y) exhaust manifold modified for a T25 flange
1.9D (1Y) inlet with a WRC-style twin-plenum
Schwitzer S1BG -turbo with 40/47 mm wheels and a 16 psi actuator
2.5" 'Group A' stainless steel exhaust
Twin-Downpipe with a separate pipe for the waste gate
55x23 cm front-mount intercooler
External oil cooler with a thermo-controlled adapter
Top Secret injection pump with 11mm head
AAZ injectors
Main girdle for the block and 1Y oil baffle
We'll see how it turns out, but I suspect it's going to be fun!
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Tekniikka/th_IMG_3395.jpg) (http://s232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Tekniikka/?action=view¤t=IMG_3395.jpg)
The special injection pump looks like this. The bolts are only there to protect it from dust..
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Tekniikka/th_11102008136.jpg) (http://s232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Tekniikka/?action=view¤t=11102008136.jpg)
The special steel head studs fitted to the block. These have zero stretch, and will really help the head gasket to seal. 8)
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Tekniikka/th_11102008137.jpg) (http://s232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Tekniikka/?action=view¤t=11102008137.jpg)(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Tekniikka/th_11102008138.jpg) (http://s232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Tekniikka/?action=view¤t=11102008138.jpg)
A heap of performance parts and an almost new AAZ head. I almost feel sorry for the poor thing...
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Tekniikka/th_11102008140.jpg) (http://s232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Tekniikka/?action=view¤t=11102008140.jpg)
The famous main girdle. Will help hold the famously fragile bottom end in one piece. We will be using stock con-rods which are flimsy, but with careful matching of the turbo, injection pump and camshaft we will make this engine 'a revver' while the low-down torque is limited. That's the key to longevity with stock internals.
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Tekniikka/th_11102008142.jpg) (http://s232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Tekniikka/?action=view¤t=11102008142.jpg)(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Tekniikka/th_11102008145.jpg) (http://s232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Tekniikka/?action=view¤t=11102008145.jpg)
The head test fitted onto the block. Looking good!
And yes, that is a cast iron exhaust manifold from a normally aspirated diesel!
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Tekniikka/th_11102008148.jpg) (http://s232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Tekniikka/?action=view¤t=11102008148.jpg)(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Tekniikka/th_11102008147.jpg) (http://s232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Tekniikka/?action=view¤t=11102008147.jpg)(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Tekniikka/th_11102008149.jpg) (http://s232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Tekniikka/?action=view¤t=11102008149.jpg)
Test fitting the turbocharger. The exhaust manifold collector is farther away from the block's center line so we'll turn the turbo the other way.
That'll also make it easier to make the downpipe, boost and inlet pipework.
The 1Y inlet manifold will be further modified and fitted with a twin plenum that's crucial to divide the air flow evenly among all four cyliders. That's something the stock manifold doesn't QUITE do :)
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Tekniikka/th_IMG_3260.jpg) (http://s232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Tekniikka/?action=view¤t=IMG_3260.jpg)
Unfortunately this won't fit on the AAZ head un-modified. I didn't want to go drilling / tapping the AAZ head because I somehow suspect I may have to change the head at some point 8)
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This thing is gonna get hurt:
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Tekniikka/th_IMG_3283.jpg) (http://s232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Tekniikka/?action=view¤t=IMG_3283.jpg)
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Tekniikka/th_IMG_3282.jpg) (http://s232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Tekniikka/?action=view¤t=IMG_3282.jpg)
...and with these I presume the rust bucket should be able to stop too.
Those are Girling 54's with 280 mm Zimmermann discs.
Although I may still replace the discs with stock items as the are already a bit worn. New Zimmermanns are way too expensive.
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So, the welding is soon done. My god there have been a lot of places that had to be patched up! I managed to hurt my eye real bad too, by stupidly welding a particularly tough spot with my bare eyes.. The next day I didn't really leave the bed :)
Here are some results of the last patch-ups:
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Kori/th_IMG_3455.jpg) (http://s232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Kori/?action=view¤t=IMG_3455.jpg)(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Kori/th_IMG_3461.jpg) (http://s232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Kori/?action=view¤t=IMG_3461.jpg)
We had to re-do the rear screen's bottom support almost completely.
After all is said and done, it would not have been such a bad idea to source a more rust-free body somewhere. The problem is of course, that there aren't that many of those around here in Finland, with all the road-salting in the winter etc..
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Kori/th_IMG_3446.jpg) (http://s232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Kori/?action=view¤t=IMG_3446.jpg)(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Kori/th_IMG_3449.jpg) (http://s232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Kori/?action=view¤t=IMG_3449.jpg)(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Kori/th_IMG_3454.jpg) (http://s232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Kori/?action=view¤t=IMG_3454.jpg)
The left-down corner was the worst. Well, you can see how bad it was.
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Kori/th_IMG_3417.jpg) (http://s232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Kori/?action=view¤t=IMG_3417.jpg)(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Kori/th_IMG_3418.jpg) (http://s232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Kori/?action=view¤t=IMG_3418.jpg)(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Kori/th_IMG_3434.jpg) (http://s232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Kori/?action=view¤t=IMG_3434.jpg)
We had to make a new hole for the right-side wiper. The good thing was that with the wind screen surround, we only had to re-do half of the bottom part! :roll:
Well, at least the main sturcture seems to be pretty sound, which is always nice.
Special thanks to Marko for helping with the welding! With my pitiful welding skills the bad spots would not have been done.
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This piece of kit just arrived:
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Tekniikka/th_IMG_3411.jpg) (http://s232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Tekniikka/?action=view¤t=IMG_3411.jpg)
A cheap purchase on the German eBay, it's a 2.5 inch stainless steel racing system with a single straight-through silencer.
It's of course much thicker than the stock system, but I'm a bit worried about whether it will be able to support my power levels.
3-inch pipes aren't really available ready to fit, and fabbing one up myself would have ended costing way more than this unit which actually turned out to be very nice quality despite the cheap price.
I'll still have to get a flex-pipe for this, and fab up a 3-inch twin-downpipe.
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When we were repairing all the rust damage, it was of course a good time to also modify the rear fenders. As you know, there isn't much room there the way these cars left the factory.
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Kori/th_IMG_3441.jpg) (http://s232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Kori/?action=view¤t=IMG_3441.jpg)(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Kori/th_IMG_3444.jpg) (http://s232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Kori/?action=view¤t=IMG_3444.jpg)(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Kori/th_IMG_3465.jpg) (http://s232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Kori/?action=view¤t=IMG_3465.jpg)
I cut off a 3-4 cm high piece of metal from both the outer and inner sheet.
Then I hammered the inner fender to meet the outer, after which they were spot welded together. Some seam sealer to finish the job, I think It'll now allow me to tune my coil-overs the way I like.
These should now be able to fit:
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Alusta/th_IMG_3427-1.jpg) (http://s232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Alusta/?action=view¤t=IMG_3427-1.jpg)(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Alusta/th_IMG_3258.jpg) (http://s232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Alusta/?action=view¤t=IMG_3258.jpg)
They're Lenso BSX, another cheap purchase on the German eBay 8)
Of course they're just BBS copies, but the quality and balance is very good. The tires are Goodyear Eagle F1 GS-D3. Sizes are 16 x 7.5 ET 25 and 195/45 R16 respectively. I may still need small spacers to acieve the stance I'm after, but that remains to be seen.
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Kori/th_IMG_3468.jpg) (http://s232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Kori/?action=view¤t=IMG_3468.jpg)
We finished off the body welding by filling the rear "logo" holes. It'll look much cleaner that way...
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The intercooler and the oil cooler have arrived:
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Tekniikka/th_IMG_3470.jpg) (http://s232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Tekniikka/?action=view¤t=IMG_3470.jpg)
The I/C core is 55x23 cm. That's not huge of course, but it was the biggest one available with 60 mm thick core. I didn't want a thicker one as it might be a pain to make fit behind the stock bumper.
For the oil cooler I have a Mocal adapter plate that has an in-built thermostat allowing oil to flow through the cooler only above a certain temperature. No over-cooling for me.
And if I'm to take the engine work seriously, I might as well make it look good too:
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Tekniikka/th_IMG_3475.jpg) (http://s232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Tekniikka/?action=view¤t=IMG_3475.jpg)(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Tekniikka/th_IMG_3513.jpg) (http://s232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Tekniikka/?action=view¤t=IMG_3513.jpg)(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Tekniikka/th_IMG_3582.jpg) (http://s232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Tekniikka/?action=view¤t=IMG_3582.jpg)
Citric acid was very helpful in de-rusting and cleaning up parts that were either unpractical size or shape to be sanded down.
The acid is pretty effective - even the most rusted items only took 2 days to clean up. And let me tell you, there WAS rust! :roll:
For the valve cover, I went for a more peronalized look.
An experimental 'flake' paint was applied: First I cleaned it to bare metal. Then a couple of layers of high-heat black engine paint. When the last layer was still wet, I sprayed on a light coat of silver laquer from a meter's distance. As the small flakes attach the surface only lightly, it's going to need a high-temp clear laquer on top still. Hopefully it'll stand the heat, because I really like the way it looks in real life.
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Tekniikka/th_IMG_3515.jpg) (http://s232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Tekniikka/?action=view¤t=IMG_3515.jpg)(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Tekniikka/th_IMG_3519.jpg) (http://s232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Tekniikka/?action=view¤t=IMG_3519.jpg)
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Things are going well at the garage. This weekend we met up with a couple of VW guys and started to put the engine together.
First off, we stripped the cylinder head so that porting and other mods can later take place.
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Tekniikka/th_IMG_3544.jpg) (http://s232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Tekniikka/?action=view¤t=IMG_3544.jpg)(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Tekniikka/th_IMG_3523.jpg) (http://s232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Tekniikka/?action=view¤t=IMG_3523.jpg)
Aki had already modified the pre-chamber openings a bit.
Apparently it's not a good idea to make the holes hugely bigger if one's not after the ultimate power. A bit of smoothing-off works a treat on a daily-driven TD.
The valve springs will need shimming too. The engine probably won't rev much past 6k rpm, but add boost and spirited driving to the equation, it's clear that the valve springs need attention.
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Tekniikka/th_IMG_3541.jpg) (http://s232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Tekniikka/?action=view¤t=IMG_3541.jpg)
Here's a comparison between a stock AAZ head, and Aki's twin charged moster's head. My head will get a similar shape for its combustion chambers, but porting will be a bit less extreme to aid longevity.
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In case someone wondered why it would be a good idea to use a cast, normally aspirated exhaust manifold as a basis for a performance manifold, here's why:
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Tekniikka/th_IMG_3542.jpg) (http://s232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Tekniikka/?action=view¤t=IMG_3542.jpg)
The header canals don't get a much better shape than that.
We aim for two things with the exhaust manifold: It has to be smooth, and it has to be short. That way we'll get as much energy as possible all the way to the turbine while not causing much flow resistance.
Even the collector diameter just happens to be EXACTLY right for the T25 flange!
Turbos can be strange sometimes:
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Tekniikka/th_IMG_3545.jpg) (http://s232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Tekniikka/?action=view¤t=IMG_3545.jpg)
On the front you can see my Schwitzer S1BG, and on the back is a stock turbo from a M-B 300 turbodiesel, a KKK K26. Now, the picture doesn't really tell, but if you saw the two side by side, the size difference is simply HUGE. Still, they make almost exactly the same power. A bit over 200 hp on a diesel application, apparently.
For a scale comparison, we added a container of project oil. That's 0W4.5 and it's not synthetic 8)
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Then we got to work with the engine block:
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Tekniikka/th_IMG_3531.jpg) (http://s232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Tekniikka/?action=view¤t=IMG_3531.jpg)(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Tekniikka/th_IMG_3557.jpg) (http://s232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Tekniikka/?action=view¤t=IMG_3557.jpg)
On the lower surface of the block we drilled a series of holes that will hold the main girdle on place. One hole next to each original oil sump holding one. Conical bolts will have to be used to clear the sump's sealing surface.
As we know, the bottom end of the block isn't exactly sturdy. The walls are thin, and the main bearing caps have very little support from the block.
The girdle solves this problem effectively.
In order to make the girdle sit tightly on the bottom surface it has to have the ability to be torqued down with real force.
For that purpose, a set of long special steel studs were made that will go through the girdle and replace the original main bearing cap bolts.
To be able to use stock caps, we had to fill the void with something.
Aki made some special sockets for this purpose out of hard tool steel.
They will not compress, allowing for a reliable structure to be torqued down. There's actually a very small gap for each socket, and the main girdle will bend down ever so slightly to fill the gap.
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Tekniikka/th_IMG_3535.jpg) (http://s232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Tekniikka/?action=view¤t=IMG_3535.jpg)(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Tekniikka/th_IMG_3554.jpg) (http://s232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Tekniikka/?action=view¤t=IMG_3554.jpg)(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Tekniikka/th_IMG_3553.jpg) (http://s232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Tekniikka/?action=view¤t=IMG_3553.jpg)
Fitting the main bearing cap studs and sockets:
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Tekniikka/th_IMG_3533.jpg) (http://s232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Tekniikka/?action=view¤t=IMG_3533.jpg)(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Tekniikka/th_IMG_3562.jpg) (http://s232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Tekniikka/?action=view¤t=IMG_3562.jpg)(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Tekniikka/th_IMG_3561.jpg) (http://s232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Tekniikka/?action=view¤t=IMG_3561.jpg)
Girdle in place:
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Tekniikka/th_IMG_3568.jpg) (http://s232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Tekniikka/?action=view¤t=IMG_3568.jpg)](http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Tekniikka/th_IMG_3578.jpg) (http://s232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Tekniikka/?action=view¤t=IMG_3578.jpg)
An extra oil baffle was deemed necessery because the car's performance is going to be "slightly" different from original.
It's even possible that from time to time, it may get driven through a bend! :roll:
This baffle was sourced out of the naturally aspirated 1.9 D (1Y).
That little engine has proven to be a valuable donor for the performance engine - something that was not really expected.
Now, since the baffle had to have holes cut to it to allow the cap studs come through, there were now holes for the oil to flow down too. So we had to make the original openings smaller. A hammer did a good job..
The top surface of the block will be left as-is otherwise, but extra holes had to be drilled for the water passages that the 1,9 engine has but the 1,6 does not. There are two holes between every cylinder. These are necessery since we'll be using the 1.9 AAZ head.
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Tekniikka/th_IMG_3537.jpg) (http://s232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Tekniikka/?action=view¤t=IMG_3537.jpg)
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Now there was only left the balancing of the engine internals.
We satisfied with two gram-accuracy with each of the moving parts.
Better than that shouldn't be necessery since the engine probably won't rev much past 6k rpm.
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Tekniikka/th_IMG_3548.jpg) (http://s232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Tekniikka/?action=view¤t=IMG_3548.jpg)
Everything looked pretty good to begin with, but one of the recently-fitted oversize pistons was seriously over weight. While the others were all within three grams, the fat one was 12 grams over!
That lead to the piston's downside looking 'interesting' after all the extra weigh was ground down.
We noticed that the 1.6 TD and 1.9 TD have some unexpected differences.
In the picture are the stock crankshafts of said engines.
On the left is the 1.6 and on the right the 1.9:
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Tekniikka/th_IMG_3552.jpg) (http://s232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Tekniikka/?action=view¤t=IMG_3552.jpg)
Just by looking at them you will see that they differ quite radically.
But once we weighed them, we couldn't really believe the result:
The 1.6 crank weighs 11,4 kg, but the 1.9 one weighs 16,0 kgs!
It's no wonder that the 1.6 is a keen revver compared to the 1.9.
So the naturally aspirated 1Y engine has donated quite a few parts for my project engine - which is a good thing really, because apart from this, there's really only one valid use for a N/A diesel:
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Tekniikka/th_IMG_3574.jpg) (http://s232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Tekniikka/?action=view¤t=IMG_3574.jpg)
At this point, thanks are once again very much in order:
Engine work, all the machining and custom parts: A deep bow and big thank to der Motorenmeister Aki.
Also, many thanks for all the help to herrn Ingenieur Petteri.
I bet uncle Rudolf would be proud.
This is a good place to continue...
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very cool build up! and nice work too.
200hp+1.6TD+reliability= :lol:
when you read about the 1.6's with more then 150hp seems like reliability is out the door?
how much did those BBS knockoffs cost you?? those are pretty nice looking 8)
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Thanks!
Well, the twin charged 260 hp engine was reliable.
We do have a couple of tricks up our sleeve though :wink:
And actually, it should make 200 hp de-tuned, max should be around
220-230 hp. But yeah, it's going to be a challenge!
The wheels cost around 550 eur, or $700. There are cheaper wheels of course, but when you compare to real BBS, well...
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wow, nice project... GOOD LUCK :)
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Thanks mate! I think I'm gonna need it :D
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share more :!:
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Sure, I'm going to update this topic all the time whenever something happens. Right now I'm waiting for a few parts so not much to do.
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Wow.
I'm just glad you're in Finland so you won't make me look quite so bad.
Wow.
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Wow.
I'm just glad you're in Finland so you won't make me look quite so bad.
Wow.
Why? I've been watching your project for a while and I think it looks good.
You're being too modest :)
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Mine is absolute rubbish! I'm not even taking he block out of the car. The cdn dollar dropped right as I made an order with Prothe so it cost 200$ more than I had anticipated so I had to remove over bore and pistons from my list.
All I'm doing performance wise is hone, arp studs, TDI intake, aaz head+a lil porting, boost/fuel mods and 2.5 to 3 dual exhaust. and a new water pump. And, of course, the plethora of gauges to make sure I don't ruin everything.
To me, it's not a real rebuild at all. I'm not changing the main bearing or the bearings on the intermediate shaft. I'm not boring when I should be.
I'm using cheap chinese parts with very old and worn stock ones. (although the turbo (t3) is surprisingly OK) My build started out good and just gets more and more welfare towards the end. I'll be lucky if it makes 100hp, and keep reliability.
Add ceramic coated .5mm over pistons, a cleaned block, new bearings all around, a giles super pump, and better than stock exhaust manifold (like yours there) and I'll have something comparable but what would that cost??? 1,000 for the pump, 500 for the 0.5mm over job... At least $1,500 thats basically what I've spent on the car already in total including purchase price. No way I can afford it! If I didn't pay tuition this semester I could for sure and i'd be smokeing :wink: all those blasted ricers!!!
I don't know how bad the ricer situation is in finland but you show those coke suckers!
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I hear you man...
I'm way past any reason with my costs too, even though I have calculated the average price for my tuning parts to be 1/3 of the market value.
But in your case, if the bottom end is fine then there's no real need to rebuilt it anyway. I hope that would have been the case for me too!
BTW, I might just be able to source some performance parts for a good price, so PM me if you still have any needs.
And with your specs, I have no doubt whatsoever you'll make a reliable 100 hp - In fact, I would multiply it by 1.5 8)
About the ricers - I'm afraid it's pretty bad in Finland too, but at least that makes for a lot of opportunities to spank 'em. It's a good thing these Jettas are relatively light compared to more modern cars so they go well with modest power even. But to be honest, If I had known from the beginning how far I'd go with my project, I would have opted for a Polo G40 for a starting point - that's 830 kg curb weight (!). Now you know what will happen when rust eventually kills my Jetta body :)
For now, I'll try to get the bodywork finished in a week or so, and try to book a smartly priced paint service somewhere.
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Oh nice! thanks a bunch!
My issue is I don't know how to tell if the bottom end is okay or not! :oops:
Good luck, can't wait to see more!
My parts should come this week...
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AAZ-camshaft with 'R-koneistus' reground profile
what cam is it?
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I don't have the specs right here (they're at my garage), but it's a 1.9 TD (AAZ) camshaft that has been reground for a new profile, namely slightly lower torque on low rpm range, but improved flow in the upper rpm range.
This cam should allow me to run 6000 rpm or even more with no serious flow losses. I'll post the specs here when I have them.
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WTF??? :shock: +200 bhp??? in a 1.6cc diesel engine?
I am shocked... and I thought it could suport near 150 bhp...
Nice one there... keep on going, I will be close to this project :D
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What are the torque values on numbers like that with a diesel of our stroke and bore?
Torque means just as much to me as BWHP does
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Great build! Interesting thoughts on the NA exhaust manifold. I didn't think the lower end was so fragile that it needed a girdle but I guess it won't hurt right?
Keep us updated!
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What are the torque values on numbers like that with a diesel of our stroke and bore?
Torque means just as much to me as BWHP does
on daves car the peak torque was around the same number around 190, not that they are comparable in that way.
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Would anyone agree that with a built 1.6td the hp is on par with torque or what seems to be the trend? I would have imagined the torque would have been 200ft.lbs+ with 150hp
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Are you going to stitch weld the body or reinforce it somehow to handle all the extra power and not flex into oblivion?
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Would anyone agree that with a built 1.6td the hp is on par with torque or what seems to be the trend? I would have imagined the torque would have been 200ft.lbs+ with 150hp
i think it all really depends, all the dynos i've seen on here seem to be different, it seems like people with smaller turbos have a way high torque number, not that this is surprising
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Torque is dependant on what rpm range the engine makes its power in. We are expecting about 350 Nm ( 260 lb-ft ), but with VNT turbos there have been 1.6 TDs with more than 500 Nm ( 370 lb-ft).
We're not after the most possible hp ( again, 250 hp has been done with a 1.6 ), but a usable engine with nice power.
We are confident it will hold in one piece, since most of the other engines have, that have been built with similar parts. The most important part is not putting it through too much low-down torque.
The 1.6 TD like the 1.9 TD, have pretty weak bottom-ends. The con-rods in particular are extremely weak, a LOT of these have bent or cracked on Finnish turbo projects. This is the very reason why we need to limit low-down torque. As I try to limit my costs, I won't be getting H-profile rods, but try to do with stock ones, albeit balanced. This is why we use a girdle and steel sockets, so that the stock parts have the best possible change of holding together.
In this engine, all parts are similar as the ones used on my friend's 260-hp twin charged TD, only my turbo is smaller. This should mean that my engine will be just as reliable, if not more, than his was. After all, on a 1.6 the internal loads should be lighter than on a 1.9 as the stroke is shorter and there's more metal between the cylinders.
As for the head and head gasket problems, well, we are using a special inlet manifold that allows even flow to each cylinder, along with a reground camshaft that improves flow dramatically. This reduces the strain on the head a lot. As for the head gasket, we have special custom built studs and nuts which absolutely do not stretch ( much, much stronger than ARP ones), and we also re-torque these studs to higher-than stock torque after initial warm-up. On all the engines we have been associated with, no problems have been present with head gaskets.
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What upgrades are you doing for handling? Strut tower reinforcing bars, chassis seam welding, etc?
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GTI front and rear anti-roll bars, all bushings replaced with polyurethane, height adjustable coil-overs with helper srings all round.
We're not reinforcing the body shell at this point, but if that later seems necessery, we will. I may be fitting strut braces front and rear if I find a good price.
Does the 'rally' in your nick tell you have some racing experience with mk2s?
If so please let me know if you find strenghtening the body work is essential.
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I wish it did. I am just going from the body flex that is noticeable from jacking the car up. Since you have the body completely stripped, now would probably be a good time to reinforce the seams.
Anyways, could you explain how your friend makes the custom head studs and did he also make the girdle?
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The girdle was made by another guy I know.
Making the head studs and nuts: It's special high-strength steel that's used on some high-end tools. It's machined down to the exact size wanted and then heat-treated. Apparently they work really well, as we have no problems with head gaskets not sealing properly.
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Would your friends make some to sell?
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I'll ask when I next meet them :)
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This build makes me reconsider building an mTDI. TDI stuff is still so expensive. An IDI actually seems like a better hobby project. For me, the affordability of IDI performance is why I was hooked in the first place.
Now I just have to convince myself my precups won't fall out.
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Precups won´t fall off. Those fall off from gazillion times overheated&wrong used (beating cold engine, not cooling hot engine etc) engines. Just keep the temperature at normal, there is no problems with head. When people started building superturbo Mercedes, there was "knowledged" people who kept telling: "head doesnt last in stock engine, it cannot be souped" Well, stock engines still keep cracking heads, but not superturbos :roll: It´s not the power that makes problems with head, it´s heat.
I had no problems with head or hg with my Scirocco engine, before it blew. It threw a con rod and I know what went wrong with it. I was at 230-240hp (crank) range at that time.
Those girdles are made by me. I had these made a bunch, sold them all.
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and the head studs?
what would be tha price for those?
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first off awesome project, you are a inspiration to us all.
do you have the cad file on that girdle?
if so would it be possible to get it so a local machine shop could make one for me?
how thick is the girdle and what kind of steel is it(mild/alloy)
I am working on a sequential turbo setup, and that girdle looks like the solution I have been looking for to hold the bottom end together,
I also have a few buddies with gassers that are interested in the girdle design to make their high HP motors more reliable.
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I think MJF should answer the questions about the girdle.
As for the head studs, I can ask when I next meet the guy who made mine.
I'll post info about that then.
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At this point I still haven't got price info on the camshafts and head studs, but I will let you guys know when I get the change.
As for now, I'm still busy with bodywork repairs. It's taking a lot more time than I had planned, and the deadline at the end of the year even seems threathened now.
There's still one day of welding left before we can get to filling and sanding pre-paint. A quick calculation tells me there are now 24 patches welded into the bodywork! And I originally thought it was a rather good starting point...
Anyway, I will post new pictures when I can, and I'll post the parts info as well, as soon as possible.
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just so everyone knows, those girdles are available, but they cost 500 dollars
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just so everyone knows, those girdles are available, but they cost 500 dollars
Yeah, that's what they cost in a speed shop...
I'll see still if I can find a way to have a series of them made. It seems like there is a lot of interest about them.
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even just a CAD drawing of one so we could make them ourselves would be good,
I feel confident that I could build one, but if all the measurements were already made it would be way easier
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first off awesome project, you are a inspiration to us all.
do you have the cad file on that girdle?
if so would it be possible to get it so a local machine shop could make one for me?
how thick is the girdle and what kind of steel is it(mild/alloy)
I am working on a sequential turbo setup, and that girdle looks like the solution I have been looking for to hold the bottom end together,
I also have a few buddies with gassers that are interested in the girdle design to make their high HP motors more reliable.
Sorry I didn't see your post right away.
Thanks a lot for the nice feedback!
The girdle is approximately 10 mm thick and it's precision machined, plasma cut mild steel. I don't have the exact material info right here though..
No CAD drawings I'm afraid, as the girdles weren't made by me (MJF had them made ).
I will try and see if some could be made still. No promises though.
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just so everyone knows, those girdles are available, but they cost 500 dollars
If I remember right, in Finland those girdles costs about 40-50€..
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just so everyone knows, those girdles are available, but they cost 500 dollars
If I remember right, in Finland those girdles costs about 40-50€..
Last time I saw one for sale for 80 €, but they're very rarely available.
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oh well, I might have to bust out the calipers and autocad and do it myself.
which is fine, I had already planned on it, I just thought that if it was already designed I could save some time.
good luck with your project, it looks like it will low the rest of us out of the water big time!
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oh well, I might have to bust out the calipers and autocad and do it myself.
which is fine, I had already planned on it, I just thought that if it was already designed I could save some time.
good luck with your project, it looks like it will low the rest of us out of the water big time!
post your CAD when your done!!!
:wink:
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will do, I will be putting up a thread of my own when my compound daily driver project gets off the ground.
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will do, I will be putting up a thread of my own when my compound daily driver project gets off the ground.
sweet!! sounds like a great project!!! I wanna do compounds after I get mine running for a bit.... 8)
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will do, I will be putting up a thread of my own when my compound daily driver project gets off the ground.
sweet!! sounds like a great project!!! I wanna do compounds after I get mine running for a bit.... 8)
Ya, you better just get yours running there Mr!! :evil:
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seems top be a common problem, mine has been sitting dead 240 miles away at my parents house with air/fuel issues for three months!
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I apologize for not updating this topic for a while.
I've been busy with other stuff lately, and the last time I was working on the car I forgot to bring the camera.
The bodywork is beginning to get ready as far as the rust repairs are concerned. We are now contemplating on doing some body reinforcement - spot welding and perhaps longitudinal fender well supports to go along with the strut braces that I have decided to order. I will be getting front upper and lower braces and also a rear brace. With that and extra spot welding of the body, I think the little Jetta should be more than driveable!
The engine has progressed some as well. Everything is going smoothly apart from the fact that the connecting rods have quite a lot of wear on their upper ends. New rings will go on there.
I opted for not ordering the discussed H-profile rods yet, since there are strong OE rods also available, namely the 1.9 N/A ones. So, in case my rods go, I will just switch to a 1.9 block.
The block has now been honed and washed, and everything apart from the rods is bolted together.
Here you can see our guest master mechanic performing the honing task.
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Tekniikka/th_22112008176.jpg) (http://s232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Tekniikka/?action=view¤t=22112008176.jpg)
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Tekniikka/th_06122008181.jpg) (http://s232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Tekniikka/?action=view¤t=06122008181.jpg)
This is Aki applying glue to the block's lower sealing surface.
We won't be using a gasket between the block and the main girdle, to make sure they are torqued to eachother as strongly as possible.
Between the girlde and the sump a normal paper gasket will go.
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Tekniikka/th_06122008184.jpg) (http://s232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Tekniikka/?action=view¤t=06122008184.jpg)
Tightening sockets, main girdle and the special main bearing bolts and nuts fitted together to stay. Just the rods to go and then it's on to the head work...
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Tekniikka/th_06122008185.jpg) (http://s232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Tekniikka/?action=view¤t=06122008185.jpg)(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Tekniikka/th_06122008187.jpg) (http://s232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Tekniikka/?action=view¤t=06122008187.jpg)
Test fitting the engine ancillaries.
As you can see, I have colour coded all the little parts and fittings.
I thing with the black/silver combination it will look good and not too 'ricey'. And knowing Aki's skills in building engines, I have confidence that the performance aspect will be every bit as good.
I will also pay attention to the engine room appearance with a new coat of paint and some overall clean-up with wires, fittings etc.
Now I'm just anxious to get putting the car back together!
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Tekniikka/th_26112008180.jpg) (http://s232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Tekniikka/?action=view¤t=26112008180.jpg)
Building of the twin-plenum intake manifold.
The log than connects to the original manifold's plenum needs to have an opening of exactly right dimensions to provide equal air flow for each inlet port. The twin plenum design works really well when done right, which is why race and rally cars have used them extensively since the '80s.
The formidable Group B Audi S1, for example, has a very similar inlet manifold design.
I only hope that I'll be able to squeeze the front upper strut brace in there with the new inlet manifold.
More will follow soon as I will have to speed things up to get the car finished before february.
Again, comments and questions are all welcome!
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dang you have some sweet tools!!
that girdle is PIMP!!! somebody get a CAD for that PLEASE!!
good work!
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Thanks man!
I'll try to get a CAD drawing at least, but there MIGHT be a possibility we could get some made. I'll look into that and let you guys know :)
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This is an awesome build :shock: two thumbs up!
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Oooo Girdle Interesting.
I made some progress too!
http://www.vwdiesel.net/phpBB/viewtopic.php?t=16482&start=105
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Yeah, I saw that earlier! Nice stuff. Let's see who gets it finished first, eh? :D
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GRrrrrrrrrrrrrr
I'm waiting on 4 valves and a ring set :P
ring set has another ... 12 days or so just on shipping then i start to put everything back together.
my aim is for the first week after Christmas i want to start it up.
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quote" Building of the twin-plenum intake manifold.
The log than connects to the original manifold's plenum needs to have an opening of exactly right dimensions to provide equal air flow for each inlet port. The twin plenum design works really well when done right, which is why race and rally cars have used them extensively since the '80s.
The fomidable Group B Audi S1, for example, has a very similar inlet manifold design.
I only hope that I'll be able to squeeze the front upper strut brace in there with the new inlet manifold.
More will follow soon as I will have to speed things up to get the car finished before february.
Again, comments and questions are all welcome!"
Sorry but I need to know and see your design. I just posted something on here asking the question on what the insid of these manifolds should look like...please let me know.
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No problem!
Here's my intake manifold. It's still some way of finishing, but you can see the basic idea here. The OE manifold on which it is based is that of the 1.9 N/A D engine (type 1Y) which is somewhat similar to a G60 inlet. It's one of the best OE manifolds in terms of flow. And it has the correct port shape for the AAZ head...
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Tekniikka/th_13102008152.jpg) (http://s232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Tekniikka/?action=view¤t=13102008152.jpg)(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Tekniikka/th_13102008154.jpg) (http://s232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Tekniikka/?action=view¤t=13102008154.jpg)
The diameter of the primary tube has to be correct for the equivalent secondary plenum (that of the original manifold) And then the two chambers are connected by a thin longitudinal opening which, again, has to have the right width. All respective to the volumes of the two chambers.
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Tekniikka/th_P1000132.jpg) (http://s232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Tekniikka/?action=view¤t=P1000132.jpg)(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Tekniikka/th_P1000089.jpg) (http://s232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Tekniikka/?action=view¤t=P1000089.jpg)
Here you can see an almost-finished manifold based on the VW LT 6-cylinder diesel inlet. The opening between the two chambers is visible here. In addition to dividing the flow equally to each inlet port, this design also prevents much of the unwanted flow-back from the cylinders.
Unfortunately I don't have the measurements at this time, but really that wouldn't help much - you need to calculate the volumes, diameters and opening widths accurately and then there's more math and flow theory involved - all staring from which manifold you use as a starting point.
Anyway, in practice these manifolds have been tested and tests show they really do the job of equal air flow. Also there's a noticeable increase in power, while smoking is greatly reduced as all cylinders have the same AFR.
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OK. I understand R-ith-mathtics somewhat, let me know what the formulas are and I will get to work. That manifold you started with is different than mine. I have the 1.6td for transverse engines, but I am sure that it will work. I was also thinking of a design before I posted earlier... what if you plumbed the turbo piping into a T and then into the top of the log on BOTH sides. Of course there is more piping, but I am thinking it might equal itself without the second plane. Just a thought though.
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I know one tuned VW 1.9 diesel engine that has a twin-inlet manifold that you described. Apparently works OK as the car makes 250 hp.
I will PM you the math stuff when I get in touch with the guy (I don't have the right formulas myself).
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Hello!
This is my first post on here!!!
Firstly, i just want to say that i don't have a VW (Boooo) I have a vauxhall Nova with a 1.7 isuzu td and i also want to say that i'm amazed at what you guys have been doing with your dubs. Theres some really insperational stuff on here!
Mine currently has the fueling turned up and boost at about 22psi putting out around 110-120 bhp.
I was wondering, what is an 'aaz' head?. Also, TurboJ where could i find out more about how my head should be ported? Could you give me some pointers or recomend a book?
What is the speacial pump you talked of, how is it different from standard?
I'm new here and i hope you guys don't mind me asking questions. I'v made my way through the FAQ's so i'll try not to ask anything too tedious/stupid.
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Hello!
This is my first post on here!!!
Firstly, i just want to say that i don't have a VW (Boooo) I have a vauxhall Nova with a 1.7 isuzu td and i also want to say that i'm amazed at what you guys have been doing with your dubs. Theres some really insperational stuff on here!
Mine currently has the fueling turned up and boost at about 22psi putting out around 110-120 bhp.
I was wondering, what is an 'aaz' head?. Also, TurboJ where could i find out more about how my head should be ported? Could you give me some pointers or recomend a book?
What is the speacial pump you talked of, how is it different from standard?
I'm new here and i hope you guys don't mind me asking questions. I'v made my way through the FAQ's so i'll try not to ask anything too tedious/stupid.
welcome! there's no problem with asking questions :) people here aren't ***s :wink:
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1. I was wondering, what is an 'aaz' head?.
2. Also, TurboJ where could i find out more about how my head should be ported? Could you give me some pointers or recomend a book?
3. What is the speacial pump you talked of, how is it different from standard?
Let's see...
1. AAZ head refers to the AAZ 1.9 TD engine that was used by VAG (VW-Audi Corporation) between '92 and '98 approximately. The AAZ head is a common upgrade on a 1.6 TD as it has much better flow capability.
2. As far as porting itself goes, any head shop with a good reputation can help you, but if you wan't to do it yourself, it's basically just to remove some material everywhere around the inlet / outlet canals, and smoothing out the valve guides. Smoothing out the combustion chamber and pre-cup edges is a more specialized job - you have to know a diesel tuning specialist really if you want good results. This is why I'm also resorting to a friend to do this job for me, one who has a lot of experience in tuning VW diesel engines.
3. I have just sent you some PM !
Feel free to ask if you have more questions! Someone will always answer, this is a very friendly bunch of people on here!
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i just ported my new aaz head
waiting for parts :(
We'll see what the difference is when it's back together!
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you mentioned earlier about a motor with a supercharger and a turbo.
how were they plumbed? I just bought a G60 and want to do the same(I was going to do a compound turbo, but $100 for a G60 will change plans fast)
my thought is to have the turbo feed the G60, but I am interested in how your friend did his.
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you mentioned earlier about a motor with a supercharger and a turbo.
how were they plumbed? I just bought a G60 and want to do the same(I was going to do a compound turbo, but $100 for a G60 will change plans fast)
my thought is to have the turbo feed the G60, but I am interested in how your friend did his.
(http://www.munkuvat.org/thumb/95472.jpeg) (http://www.munkuvat.org/kuva/95472)
The Eaton blower sucks its air through the turbo compressor, so it helps the turbo to spool. Of course, the blower also helps create more enery to the exhaust side to spin up the turbine faster as well.
The system had a pressure-operated shut-off valve for the blower that cut the blower off when the turbo started to make real boost. This car had a really big Holset hybrid turbo, rated at 400 hp+, and without the blower it wouldn't spool up at all :)
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Hi folks :D
Jeah,that´s my car,super chargered turbodiesel vento,and i build janne´s 1.6td superturbo motors.
litle more vento aaz motors : that eaton runing all time and all air going eaton`s through.idling boost is approximately 0.4 bar and 1100 rmp motor produce 148mn torgue that boost.When holset/switzer turbo wake up boost gain up to 2.6 bar and motor produce 415-425nm and 250-260hp,in wheel !
now im buildin 20v (4 sylinder) turbo diesel engine.It´s prototype and maybe we will see that next summer in drag trip... :twisted:
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5 valves per cylinder? How does that work??
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Nice to see you here Aki!
5 valves per cylinder? How does that work??
Eddy, I'll reply to this gor now: Take one SDi block and one 1.8T 20V head. Bolt together. Fit injectors where spark plugs should go.
Drink many beers. Pray. Go damn fast. 8)
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Nice to see you here Aki!
5 valves per cylinder? How does that work??
Eddy, I'll reply to this gor now: Take one SDi block and one 1.8T 20V head. Bolt together. Fit injectors where spark plugs should go.
Drink many beers. Pray. Go damn fast. 8)
With that large combustion chamber, how do you get the compression ratio above 16:1 ? Also, what about glow plugs or pre-heat for starting ?
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That large chamber is not problem if I can modify pistons to right shape.
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Nice to see you here Aki!
5 valves per cylinder? How does that work??
Eddy, I'll reply to this gor now: Take one SDi block and one 1.8T 20V head. Bolt together. Fit injectors where spark plugs should go.
Drink many beers. Pray. Go damn fast. 8)
:shock:
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That large chamber is not problem if I can modify pistons to right shape.
How are you going to modify them ? Did you ever see the movie "The world's Fastest Indian" ?? The guy in that true story casted his own pistions in his garage.
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Eddy, I'll reply to this gor now: Take one SDi block and one 1.8T 20V head. Bolt together. Fit injectors where spark plugs should go.
Drink many beers. Pray. Go damn fast. 8)
so simple ;) :lol:
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so simple.piston shape is allmost ready and next is injektor fitting..hard,and very hard.broblem is diesel´s injektions pattern because diesel can get hit to piston otherwise piston crack
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any vids of those cars?
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yes i want to see more vids.We need a pic and vid section.I remember that mercedes that was boosted and charged,wild frickin wild 8)
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Drink many beers. Pray. Go damn fast. 8)
That's a scary combination. :shock:
Andrew
I didn't mean they should be done simultaneously :P
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come on where are the updates and new pics???
get to work so we can see what you have done!!...lol.. :lol: 8)
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http://s434.photobucket.com/albums/qq68/Aki-76/
and (very) old video my vento
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jVYvCw-NfXo
(http://www.munkuvat.org/thumb/128193.jpeg) (http://www.munkuvat.org/kuva/128193)
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OK, here's some update of my car's progress (finally !)
I have still been tackling with bodywork repairs.
When all the patching and welding seemed to be done, I found a couple of new holes and rotten areas, so no choice but to keep working.
My original schedule has streched a bit because the bodywork has given me a few time consuming surprises, but it should, at last, be done soon.
The final repairs are scheduled for this week, and today I prepared the inner floor for painting. The factory bitumen had cracked badly and let moisture under it, so it all had to come off. Only one real hole on the whole floor! Probably the only nice surprise about the whole bodywork... :roll:
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Kori/th_IMG_3592.jpg) (http://s232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Kori/?action=view¤t=IMG_3592.jpg)(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Kori/th_IMG_3595.jpg) (http://s232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Kori/?action=view¤t=IMG_3595.jpg)(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Kori/th_IMG_3598.jpg) (http://s232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Kori/?action=view¤t=IMG_3598.jpg)
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Kori/th_IMG_3594.jpg) (http://s232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Kori/?action=view¤t=IMG_3594.jpg)
When I checked the condition of the tank filler surround, my finger went right through the sheet metal.... And it was really difficult to source a repair section. Also with the welding it went slightly wrong as the metal around the patch warped slightly - and yes, we were being extra careful with cooling it etc. Well, it's patched up now.
Also, I wanted to upgrade my CL interior to GTI / GTX specification.
The stock seats don't hold anyone in place during cornering :)
Problem was, GTX Jettas are extremely rare in Finland, and so I couldn't find a complete interior anywhere. I went on and bought a '89 Golf GTI 4-door interior, and decided to make that fit.
It sounds simple - you just have to make new upper mounts for the rear seatback, otherways it's bolt-on. In practice it took quite a bit of measuring and test fitting though. Upper mounts from a Golf were modified and welded onto the Jetta body.
Now, at last, the Recaro set will fit!
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Kori/th_IMG_3599.jpg) (http://s232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Kori/?action=view¤t=IMG_3599.jpg)
There's still plenty of work to be done before I can take the car to the paint job, but I know once the new coat of paint gleams on the Jetta's surface, I just know my motivation will go up in spades and fitting all the parts back to the car is going to be a bliss! And Aki, we have to discuss that body strenghtening too.. The braces have been ordered 8)
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So did you end up reinforcing all the seams?
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So did you end up reinforcing all the seams?
I'm thinking about it. It's also a question of time.. We'll see what happens!
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Oooohhh... This should be cool.
Finding a way to have a really tall pentagonally hemispherical (I assume thats the shape of it anyway, if its anything like Toyota's 20v 4-cyls) piston that still has a swirl bowl in it... Sweet. Don't want to inject the diesel right through the piston crown lol.
That could turn out really awesome. Or have a really freaky failure. lol.
You should stitch up the body. Not only will it help out with absorbing the power, but your body flex in cornering and manuevering will be cut down as well. Much more sure-footed!
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old pictures from finish "ffp" topic
http://www.ffp.fi/bb/viewtopic.php?t=87801
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Finish the floor in truck bedliner. It really works and is a sound deadener also.
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Finish the floor in truck bedliner. It really works and is a sound deadener also.
I have already painted it, no chance that could be applied on top of the paint?
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I think it can as long as you rough it up. I put it in the trunk of my new Toyota, and all I did was a quick wipe with a sanding pad, then degreaser.
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What are you doing with the transmission to handle the power?
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I'm hoping the combination of a big turbo and an aggressive camshaft will make it a 'revver' and limit the low-down torque - I'll see if the stock tranny will keep in one piece. If not, I'll strip a Passat for a 02A.
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Some updates again:
I have been painting the floor:
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Kori/th_IMG_3601.jpg) (http://s232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Kori/?action=view¤t=IMG_3601.jpg)(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Kori/th_IMG_3618.jpg) (http://s232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Kori/?action=view¤t=IMG_3618.jpg)
The driver's floor piece will have to wait until I get all the wires sorted out and the steering column refitted. I'm expecting a few little holes may be found down there...
I have decided to use only normal paint in finishing the floor pieces and leave out any bitumen. I will then only put factory-style noise-suppressing carpets on the painted floor. They can just be lifted off as there is no glue or anything. I decided to do this because when the floor rusts through the next time, it will be much quicker and easier to repair than with bitumen.
I finally got the front struts out. As you know, in typical VW fashion, a special tool is needed to undo the strut's top nuts. And the style of the special tool even cahnged during the production run of the mk2 Golfs/Jettas... The '91 Jetta requires a 22 mm socket with an opening on its side. Naturally the tools is NLA at the VW dealership, so I just had to make one myself.
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Tekniikka/th_IMG_3614.jpg) (http://s232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Tekniikka/?action=view¤t=IMG_3614.jpg)
You need a long 22mm socket, and then use an angle grider to make the opening. A 6mm hex-head key will have to fit through the opening. With most long sockets, there's only so much room to grind material off for the opening, so you may need to shorten the hex-head key too, as I did.
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Tekniikka/th_IMG_3607.jpg) (http://s232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Tekniikka/?action=view¤t=IMG_3607.jpg)
My total re-arrangement of engine room ancillaries meant I had to give up the idea of using a factory air box. So I ended up buying a second-hand BMC Carbon Dynamic Airbox (CDA). I hope it is as durable as the manufacturer claims. I'll see what the cotton fabric looks like after I have washed it thoroughly. Anyway, the idea behind this air box's design is that it's a normal cold-air system, but with a carbon-fibre air box. Heat suppression should be first class, and now I get to choose where I take the cold-air feed from.
I dismantled all the wires forward of the firewall:
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Tekniikka/th_IMG_3620.jpg) (http://s232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Tekniikka/?action=view¤t=IMG_3620.jpg)
Much of the original wiring was in pretty bad shape and many individual wires were almost broken in two, so I'm going to replace the whole lot.
I'm also going to fit a kind of 'master plug' so that when I take off my engine the next time, I'll only have to open one connector instead of dozen little connectors all around the engine compartment. While I'm doing this, I also got the change to get rid of some of the unnecessery wires, such as the fog light and turbo cooling thermoswitch wires. Which is good.
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Tekniikka/th_IMG_3619.jpg) (http://s232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Tekniikka/?action=view¤t=IMG_3619.jpg)(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Tekniikka/th_IMG_3625.jpg) (http://s232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Tekniikka/?action=view¤t=IMG_3625.jpg)
...the wires as they were removed from the car.
On the next picture, I have separated all the wires and they are now ready to be used as a model for the completely new harness that I will be making next.
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Hey, anybody have a wiring diagram for a mk2 diesel?
EDIT: Thanks to mr. Vincent Waldon who helped me to a suitable wiring diagram!
But there is still a question:
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Tekniikka/IMG_3625-1.jpg)
This thingy was bolted onto the firewall in the engine compartment.
It's been many months since I took it all apart and unfortunately I failed to mark one or two wires... :oops:
So I'm assuming the 'thingy' in the picture is the glow plug fuse.
One of the thick wires should then go to the glow plugs, but the other thick wire was clearly connected to battery plus feed! There'd have to be a relay of some sort in there somewhere?
Furthermore, what is the function of the three small wires? They seem to go to the fuse box. Maybe it could be a combined fuse / relay box and the three small wires would control the relay circuit...?
Any help would be appreciated! It's all a bit frustrating since there is one other nameless wire in there that could also have something to do with the glow plugs...
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bump for updated info on my last question...
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if it can wait 'till tonight I'll get a picture of the wiring. My one is not at the house.
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Sure, thanks mate!
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Called my Dad, where the car is, to get a pic ... the fuse box only has the one wire hoock-up, sorry :(
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Called my Dad, where the car is, to get a pic ... the fuse box only has the one wire hoock-up, sorry :(
But hey, thanks for your help anyway! You mean it only has the thick red wire connected to it on either side? If so, can you confirm where the other one goes, the one that's not connected on the glow plugs?
Thanks again!
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Lovely project!
Can you elaborate exactly on how you plan to have the supercharger cutout when the turbo has built boost?
is it some kind of clutch to disengage it or what?
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The supercharger was on my friend's last engine evolution.
My car doesn't have a supercharger, just a simple old school Schwitzer turbocharger. As for the supercharger cut-out, if Aki is reading this, he can answer that one as it was his project :)
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Did you find out what that is? I can't really see from the pics.
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Did you find out what that is? I can't really see from the pics.
It's the glow plug fuse box, but the problem is the wires attached to it are a bit mixed up. I know where the three small wires go, but the thick plus feed is something I need to sort out. I'm trying to make the engine room a bit more organized and 'clean' so I'd like to move the fuse to the other side of the fire wall.
But there has to be a reason why it was fitted where it is?
Then on the other hand, mk3 TD:s did have the fuse next to the main fuse box, under the dash..
Now if I only could find a good deal on a Bentley manual. My current manual doesn't cover the diesel engines at all so it's slightly difficult to find information about glow plug wires on it :)
To update the project story, my Wiechers stress bars arrived today:
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Alusta/th_IMG_3629.jpg) (http://s232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Alusta/?action=view¤t=IMG_3629.jpg)
and this has lead to another problem. I ordered these from a reputable eBay merchant who asked me for the vehicle MY and model variant when I put in my order. I told them I wanted a 16V upper front bar, but now thay have sent me a 8V one :evil: And the great thing is the eBay shop isn't there anymore so I can't make a complaint.
When did that ever happen? I store with a +20.000 feedback rating went out of business exactly after I had put in my order.
It seems I'll just have to modify this bar to fit my TD. That should give me an opportunity to weld a firewall triangle brace on it though, so maybe it's not all bad.
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I know one tuned VW 1.9 diesel engine that has a twin-inlet manifold that you described. Apparently works OK as the car makes 250 hp.
I will PM you the math stuff when I get in touch with the guy (I don't have the right formulas myself).
Give me the goods. I am almost ready to build a LOG manifold but need some stuff on how numbers and stuff should work. Let me know if you find anything. OR you could just send me your intake and I could copy it an send it back :D Your car will be done before mine though so that might not work
:lol:
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Sold my gearbox yesterday.
Aki sourced a Passat 1.9 TD that he's dismantling for parts so I got the 02A gearbox! Now I guess I won't have to worry about the g/b exploding.
The conversion is pretty complex however:
I need pedal assembly from the Passat, as it has a hydraulic clutch. Then the master and slave cylinder, shift linkage and gear lever etc.
Then I'll have to find suitable drive shafts too. Does anyone know if any other than the Golf G60 ones will fit?
I'll need a different clutch too. I'm going to try a 228 mm G60 clutch with a stiffer pressure plate and a grippier disc, along with a lightened G60 flywheel.
That's gonna require quite a few hours in the garage to finish, but it should be worth it!
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I used to have a link to a guy that did this in a write up. The one thing I remember is that he used a hole saw to cut the firewall for the hydro clutch pedal and system. The link is no longer working, but there was something about the axles as well, but I can't remember now.
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Now I guess I won't have to worry about the g/b exploding
My 02A (http://www.kotinet.com/matti.farm/Scirocco/28092008.jpg) :lol:
You can use Passat clutch cable too if you don´t want to convert hydro-clutch.
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Now I guess I won't have to worry about the g/b exploding
My 02A (http://www.kotinet.com/matti.farm/Scirocco/28092008.jpg) :lol:
You can use Passat clutch cable too if you don´t want to convert hydro-clutch.
Hmm.. Any idea why that broke? How much torque did you have again?
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Hmm.. Any idea why that broke? How much torque did you have again?
Probably all the 2nd gear burnouts and beating :D Not much torque, 350-370nm estimated maximum.
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My inlet manifold is almost ready:
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Tekniikka/th_02012009200.jpg) (http://s232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Tekniikka/?action=view¤t=02012009200.jpg)
The combination of a 1Y inlet and a round, secondary plenum makes this thing really flow. And I think it'll look pretty nice too once it's all done.
I'm going to take some strain off Aki and do the polishing stuff myself :lol:
The cylinder block is also ready now.
Next weekend Aki is coming over and we'll be test fitting the engine so I can start to fabricate the downpipe and boost pipes. Now that should be fun!
Aki has also promised to do some serious spot-welding on my Jetta body, so it'll be a lot of work for one weekend.
Can't wait to see the finished exhaust manifold too - especially if there's time to get it ceramic-coated for the weekend. Well, if not, I'll just have wait for another time 8)
Next thursday I'll booking a time at a paint shop. A deadline like that is sure to boost the progress of the body repairs. Soon the car will gleam bright, proud to really be Tornado Rot once again.
I'm starting to become somewhat worried about my stock rods again..
Just think about it, people have 170-180 hp with 1.6 heads, stock cams, stock manifolds and small core pumps - I'll have a seriously modified 1.9 head, a custom cam, a very efficient inlet manifold and a good exhaust manifold too, along with a modified large core pump.
This means that the 200 hp target is just all too easy to reach!
In fact, the only thing on my engine preventing it producing 230 hp is the turbocharger. I seriously hope that the Schwitzer turbo won't spool too quickly - otherways I'm certain the rods will bend or crack.
Just one little thing to keep me preoccupied... :roll:
On the positive side of things, I'm thinking this car could be pretty quick once it's done. If it makes 200 hp and 350 Nm torque and weighs in 1000 kilos, then it'll have similar hp per ton and Nm per ton than my old Saab Turbo. That car did 0-200 km/h (0-125 mph) in 19.6 seconds. That's period Porsche 911 territory.
If you really think about it, a 1.6 TD mk2 Golf / Jetta is a VERY smart basis for a fast road car. Simple, easy to work on, cheap to service and to modify, robust and great in handling. Can do 55 MPG, can do 240 km/h... Add to that the classic looks and all that pedigree - It's perfect really! Those who rant on about 'it's crazy to put all that time and money into such cheap, old car - they just don't know what they're talking about.
I'm so anxious to get behind the wheel of my beast! :twisted:
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your making me think that my goal of 115HP is attainable. I have a fully ported 1.6 mechanical head, ported exhaust, Giles super pump, fresh .020" overbore, KKK24 turbo, and I will have an intercooler and 3" downpipe. And maybe now you might have talked me into an intake...I hope to be 115HP. I need to fix the rest of the AC, floorboards, and well the car first though. Good luck with your 230HP beast. Back to your special thread
I like the way you think.
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your making me think that my goal of 115HP is attainable. I have a fully ported 1.6 mechanical head, ported exhaust, Giles super pump, fresh .020" overbore, KKK24 turbo, and I will have an intercooler and 3" downpipe. And maybe now you might have talked me into an intake...I hope to be 115HP. I need to fix the rest of the AC, floorboards, and well the car first though. Good luck with your 230HP beast. Back to your special thread
I like the way you think.
I think with those mods you should be able to pass 150 hp with little trouble.
115 hp can, after all, be taken out of a standard engine with a lightly modified pump and a T3 or K24 turbo. You'r car fill fly, make no mistake!
P.S. You've got a private message :)
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If you really think about it, a 1.6 TD mk2 Golf / Jetta is a VERY smart basis for a fast road car. Simple, easy to work on, cheap to service and to modify, robust and great in handling. Can do 55 MPG, can do 240 km/h... Add to that the classic looks and all that pedigree - It's perfect really! Those who rant on about 'it's crazy to put all that time and money into such cheap, old car - they just don't know what they're talking about.
I'm so anxious to get behind the wheel of my beast! :twisted:
Well said.
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Thanks! 8)
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This time I have rather many updates to post :)
This weekend Aki came by my garage and brought with him my newly built 1.6 bottom end. The inlet and exhaust manifolds have also taken shape. Some test fitting followed, about which later.
We also started to do the bodywork reinforcements.
Aki had experience from a racing mk2 he had built before, so it was one step easier for me not having to learn the hard way.
BUT, the MIG welder was not cooperating at all - and since it was saturday evening, we couldn't get spares anywhere.
We did get to a start anyway:
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Kori/th_IMG_3635.jpg) (http://s232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Kori/?action=view¤t=IMG_3635.jpg)
The door surrounds were drilled every inch or so - not full holes, but so that the tip of the drill could just be seen from the other side. This way it should be easier to fill the holes.
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Kori/th_IMG_3640.jpg) (http://s232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Kori/?action=view¤t=IMG_3640.jpg)
The holes were then filled with big 'old bungs - better to have a secure weld and grind some off later..
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Kori/th_IMG_3644.jpg) (http://s232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Kori/?action=view¤t=IMG_3644.jpg)
...and because this is first and foremost, a street vehicle, grind is what we did ( flat surfaces help when fitting the door seals).
I'm going to follow this same procedure with the windshield frame as well.
The rear screen surround is going to be left as is, because the lower part is already pretty stiff after all the rust repairs, and the rear end has better torsional rigidity already, than a Golf for example ( a sedan bodyshell is better in this respect). And I do also have a rear strut brace, which should help too.
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Kori/th_IMG_3646.jpg) (http://s232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Kori/?action=view¤t=IMG_3646.jpg)
The seams in the engine compartment will also be seen to.
The gaps are surprisingly generous from the factory (!)
No wonder there's so thick a layer of that gooey seam sealer stuff - which, BTW, is a real pleasure to remove...
So the welding didn't get to a great start, but now that I have all the theory and know the places to work on, I should be able to tackle the job on my own.
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Then to the more interesting bits..
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Tekniikka/th_IMG_3663.jpg) (http://s232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Tekniikka/?action=view¤t=IMG_3663.jpg)
The bottom end is basically complete.
Inside are 0.5 mm oversize pistons and rings - which were balanced to 2 grams accuracy along with the connecting rods. The crankshaft is the only completely stock engine part. We figured no lightening was necessery as the 1.6 crank was found to be considerably lighter than the 1.9 one.
The rods needed new upper rings, and all the bearings were naturally renewed.
The main bearing caps are stock, but they are tightened to the block with special high-strenght sockets and custom bolts, through the main girdle.
Below the girdle is the 1.9 D (1Y) oil baffle.
Aki has fitted some new internals into the oil pump, as well as the vacuum pump. An AAZ crank case breather was added too. I think the 1.6 should always had one. Well, now it does.
The engine recipe looks good, and in the future I may be adding a reinforced slave axle to the equation. They can snap you know..
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Tekniikka/th_IMG_3656.jpg) (http://s232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Tekniikka/?action=view¤t=IMG_3656.jpg)
Another angle of the bottom end. I reckon that should be a bit strong!
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Tekniikka/th_IMG_3664.jpg) (http://s232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Tekniikka/?action=view¤t=IMG_3664.jpg)
Honing marks are in the right angle now that Aki has worked his magic, which could not be said of the job a reputable engine shop had done 15k kms earlier...
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Tekniikka/th_IMG_3651.jpg) (http://s232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Tekniikka/?action=view¤t=IMG_3651.jpg)
Oil baffle and oil pump test fitted once again.
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Awesome thread. Do you have to keep the surrounding area cool somehow or is danger of warping not a problem? Keep up the good work!
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I will lift the engine in its place during the following days so I can start designing the boost pipes and the downpipe. In order to do so I need a head and some manifolds. Aki obliged..
A dummy 1.9 head was fitted on top of the block and the almost-complete inlet and exhaust manifolds could then be fitted on it.
My own special cyl. head is still being worked on, as it will have quite extensive modifications.
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Tekniikka/th_IMG_3666.jpg) (http://s232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Tekniikka/?action=view¤t=IMG_3666.jpg)
The exhaust manifold is ready apart from final polishing and the addition of an EGT probe. The manifold has a ceramic coating which should help reduce radiated heat, and also improve turbo response since more energy is channeled to the turbine housing.
That's a kind of an exhaust manifold you get by welding a T3 flange onto a N/A 1.9 cast iron manifold 8)
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Tekniikka/th_IMG_3719.jpg) (http://s232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Tekniikka/?action=view¤t=IMG_3719.jpg)(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Tekniikka/th_IMG_3715.jpg) (http://s232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Tekniikka/?action=view¤t=IMG_3715.jpg)
And there we have the little turbo.
It DOES look small next to the engine and manifold, doesn't it?
The turbine has ample clearance to the engine block ( a heat shield will fit there still ), but the compressor is "pretty close" to say the least.
If I manage to fit the waste gate assembly the way I like, I will clock the compressor housing so that it faces downwards. From there, I will route the boost pipe UNDER the gearbox to meet the FMIC. Yes it's cramped in there, but then the boost pipes only have 2" diameter which should help.
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Tekniikka/th_IMG_3708.jpg) (http://s232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Tekniikka/?action=view¤t=IMG_3708.jpg)(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Tekniikka/th_IMG_3700.jpg) (http://s232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Tekniikka/?action=view¤t=IMG_3700.jpg)(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Tekniikka/th_IMG_3710.jpg) (http://s232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Tekniikka/?action=view¤t=IMG_3710.jpg)
Next thing was naturally the fitment of the inlet manifold.
A pretty neat little package has been fabbed up from the 1Y factory inlet that was just sitting in a parts bin.
On the third picture you can see how the twin-plenum system is put together: The boost pipe is continued on the side of the plenum, partially IN the plenum actually. Then a small opening is machined to the pipe.
This design will keep any flow-back from the inlet tracts to a minimum.
It does look like a tight little hole through which the inlet air must flow, but once you calculate its surface area, it actually doesn't hinder flow much at all. All things considered, it can be clearly seen why these manifolds have been used on racing turbo engines since the group B rally cars. The flow to each port is made equal, back-flow is almost negated and total flow capacity remains good. More HP, more even fueling, less smoke and less strain on the engine.
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Awesome thread. Do you have to keep the surrounding area cool somehow or is danger of warping not a problem? Keep up the good work!
Thanks mate!
No warping really. Since we're doing this with spot welds, there's no warpage to speak of. Actually, I did manage to warp some places when I was drilling the holes :P
The drilling bit is actually pretty challenging, because there are very different areas on the door surrounds. Some places have two sheets, some three or even four (!) sheets on top of eachother. And then there are places that have high-strenght steel. Really, the drilling is the difficult part!
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Here's how the complete package looks once the "new" 02A gearbox is also test fitted to meet the engine:
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Tekniikka/th_IMG_3692.jpg) (http://s232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Tekniikka/?action=view¤t=IMG_3692.jpg)(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Tekniikka/th_IMG_3694.jpg) (http://s232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Tekniikka/?action=view¤t=IMG_3694.jpg)(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Tekniikka/th_IMG_3697.jpg) (http://s232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Tekniikka/?action=view¤t=IMG_3697.jpg)
The boost pipe coming to the inlet manifold is what I call "a not very tight bend". I will be putting considerable effort in designing and routing the boost pipes. It was once measured that in this power range, every tight 90-degree bend robs 3-4 engine horsepower. Make that 4-5 bends total and you could lose 20 hp on the boost pipes alone :!:
Sure you can take it back by turning up the boost, but think about it, 20 hp's worth less engine stress and the same performance..
When it's all done, I can promise that under the hood the engine will look very different to most VW diesels
8)
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Today I went back to the garage and decided to begin 'cosmetic finishing' of the inlet manifold.
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Tekniikka/th_IMG_3726.jpg) (http://s232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Tekniikka/?action=view¤t=IMG_3726.jpg)(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Tekniikka/th_IMG_3727.jpg) (http://s232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Tekniikka/?action=view¤t=IMG_3727.jpg)
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Tekniikka/th_IMG_3728.jpg) (http://s232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Tekniikka/?action=view¤t=IMG_3728.jpg)(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Tekniikka/th_IMG_3729.jpg) (http://s232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Tekniikka/?action=view¤t=IMG_3729.jpg)(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Tekniikka/th_IMG_3730.jpg) (http://s232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Tekniikka/?action=view¤t=IMG_3730.jpg)
The easy seams I grinded flat and with a special polishing tool I started on the flat surfaces. It's still a very long way to go, but you get the general idea. I'm going to have to figure out how to do the places that are hard to get to, though. I will NOT do it by hand with sand paper!
What I'm after is that smooth 'factory look', not some bright chrome-style glow. If anyone knows how to achieve that without excessive effort, let me know!
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Here's the 02A out of a parted-out Passat 35i diesel.
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Tekniikka/th_IMG_3723.jpg) (http://s232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Tekniikka/?action=view¤t=IMG_3723.jpg)
It will have to be cleaned and detailed of course.
I think I'll re-paint the parts that come off easily, but the gearbox case itself will be left bare aluminium. It should come pretty good once I acid-treat it.
I hope this gearbox has some long ratios - I had super long on the 020, but once I got offered this 02A I just couldn't refdure - these are so much stronger and the clutch will be much easier to do as well.
I just don't want it to be a 'screamer' on the highway, and I do like a nice top speed too. With my planned power output, the Jetta should be able to do way, way past 125 mph if the gearing allows it.
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Hello,
very impressive build up. I like the intake manifold very much, what is the diameter of the boost pipe 2" and will can you please share the dimension of the gap (between the two plenums)?
Because i can`t find a 1.9 NA Intake here, i have bought a 2.4 NA (6 cylinder) intake from a VW LT28. Today i have seen pictures from aki and think he has also a used the LT intake, it is correct?
I just get it yesterday and not tryed, if the middle of the six ports, fit our 1.6 td engines. Here is a link to this type:
http://cgi.ebay.de/VW-LT-28-35-40-Ansaugbruecke-Ansaugkruemmer-Saugd-DW_W0QQitemZ290275099963QQcmdZViewItemQQptZAutoteile_Zubeh%C3%B6r?hash=item290275099963&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14&_trkparms=72%3A1229%7C66%3A4%7C65%3A12%7C39%3A1%7C240%3A1318
Best regards
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Hello,
very impressive build up. I like the intake manifold very much, what is the diameter of the boost pipe 2" and will can you please share the dimension of the gap (between the two plenums)?
Because i can`t find a 1.9 NA Intake here, i have bought a 2.4 NA (6 cylinder) intake from a VW LT28. Today i have seen pictures from aki and think he has also a used the LT intake, it is correct?
I just get it yesterday and not tryed, if the middle of the six ports, fit our 1.6 td engines.
Best regards
Thanks for your kind words!
Yes, my boost pipes are 2" diameter. No need to go bigger than that if you have less than 250 hp. A too big pipe will harm performance actually.
Look at WRC cars for example :!:
The inlet pipe's side of the manifold is made in the same diameter as the boost pipes, to reduce flow losses.
You're right the LT manifold fits the 1.6 once you take the outer two runners off. In fact, the LT manifold is the most popular upgrade on a 1.6 as it even has the correct port size and shape to match the 1.6 head.
Sorry - I can't help you with the gap width etc. right now because my specs won't work on the LT manifold. A twin plenum system requires careful calculation of inlet tube, primary and secondary plenum measurements... You have to do a lot of math and I'n not an expert there I'm afraid! You can PM Aki, he knows his stuff :)
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Oftopic question.
What taxroules do you got in Finland , any taxfree year ?
Keep up the god work !
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Thanks!
Nah.. Nothing's tax free in Finland! :P
That's also one reason why I like to build older cars.
What were you wondering about the tax rules in particular?
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I mean the roadtax.
If there is any year that the car become free from the taxes.
In Sweden, when our cars turn over to 30 year or older they are completely taxfree :D
Now it´s 1979 or older, next year 1980 and so on.
Best regards.
Anton.
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We don't have anything exatly like that in finland, but when a car is 30 years old and if it is in good original condition or restored you can register the vehicle as museum vehicle and then you pay less than 100€/year taxes.
Here's a picture for comparison to 1.9TDi (AHU) and a modified LT intake manifold (made by me and AKI).
(http://s139.photobucket.com/albums/q302/jedi8986/seat/imusarja/th_vakiojalt.jpg) (http://i139.photobucket.com/albums/q302/jedi8986/seat/imusarja/vakiojalt.jpg?t=1231737896)
As you can see there is some improvements. The engine revs now much happier over 3500rpm with the LT manifold.
Here's a picture to my new LT intake manifold (also made by AKI)
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Tekniikka/th_P1000089.jpg) (http://s232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Tekniikka/?action=view¤t=P1000089.jpg)
The gap in the first plenum is calculated to have exatly the same area as the intake pipe. (sorry Janne for stealing the picture)
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We don't have anything exatly like that in finland, but when a car is 30 years old and if it is in good original condition or restored you can register the vehicle as museum vehicle and then you pay less than 100€/year taxes.
so how do i get citizenship in Finland??? :lol: thats too cool! although here in Canada we pay about $75 a year in tax :roll: not to mention the fuel taxes too... it almost seems like the tax is being taxed :lol:
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Sorry I ment roadtaxes
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Also you can import 30 year old cars or older, without import tax. But that's not very good, since you shouldn't have to pay taxes for a used import anyway, or so the EU says. Finnish government doesn't want to listen though..
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does any government ever wanna listen to stuff like that?
:lol: :roll:
They say,
"buy locally!"
"why import a car when you can buy one from your own country?"
Makes sense i guess... but is annoying!!!
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We don't have anything exatly like that in finland, but when a car is 30 years old and if it is in good original condition or restored you can register the vehicle as museum vehicle and then you pay less than 100€/year taxes.
In Michigan if its more than 25 years old, we can put a plate from the year it was built (or historical plate) and pay about $18 for every 5 years. You can't drive it for anything but: shows, historical car club meetings, maintenance, etc.
We can also import DIESEL cars from the rest of the world if they are more than 25 years old. I'd love to have the ugly diesel Citroen CX
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We don't have anything exatly like that in finland, but when a car is 30 years old and if it is in good original condition or restored you can register the vehicle as museum vehicle and then you pay less than 100€/year taxes.
Actually, no taxes for museum inspected vehicles at all. Not even diesel-tax. Only 40-50€ (don´t know exact nowadays) insurance for 30 days of use in year.
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Thanks MJF for the correction!
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In Sweden the roadtax for a Golf2 Jetta Caddy etc will cost you about 2500Skr = 227Euro = 310Usd every year.
The fuel (1L diesel) 11Skr = 1Euro = 1.375Usd
Thats 5.5$ / gallon.
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About 500 € here every year...
They make us pay extra for driving a diesel, the bastards!
For a gas mk2, it would only be 115 € /year.
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They make us pay extra for driving a diesel, the bastards!
:shock:
more road tax on diesel cars, that's insane... why? pollution?
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About 500 € here every year...
They make us pay extra for driving a diesel, the bastards!
For a gas mk2, it would only be 115 € /year.
Same here...
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We don't have anything exatly like that in finland, but when a car is 30 years old and if it is in good original condition or restored you can register the vehicle as museum vehicle and then you pay less than 100€/year taxes.
In Michigan if its more than 25 years old, we can put a plate from the year it was built (or historical plate) and pay about $18 for every 5 years. You can't drive it for anything but: shows, historical car club meetings, maintenance, etc.
We can also import DIESEL cars from the rest of the world if they are more than 25 years old. I'd love to have the ugly diesel Citroen CX
just 15 years here 8) man 15 years ago, europe had some sweet diesels!!! if i had the cash i'd start importing like crazy! flood the market :lol:
it seems as though diesel gets hit with all kinds of extra's. as if thats going to stop us from driving them... :roll:
finally BMW is coming out with diesels in Canada! it won't be long now before they're available, but thing is they are probably going to cost about $50,000 as i believe it is the 6 series. definitely not affordable for me (yet) :lol:
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BMW is coming out with the 335d here in Canada. It looks very nice. And it has a compound turbo set-up OEM!!!!!
(http://www.canadiandriver.com/galleries/2009/images/bmw/2009_bmw_3_series/2009-bmw-335d_cc_002-3957.jpg)
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They make us pay extra for driving a diesel, the bastards!
:shock:
more road tax on diesel cars, that's insane... why? pollution?
No.. More income for the government. They figure if you save on fuel by driving a diesel, they're gonna take theirs back some other way. Criminals the lot of them.
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No.. More income for the government. They figure if you save on fuel by driving a diesel, they're gonna take theirs back some other way. Criminals the lot of them.
WTF :!: that's horrible :evil:
but here it's kind of the same... we get better millage on diesel so the price of diesel goes up, actually 35 cents higher that gas :roll:
* walks out mumbling " stupid government " *
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it has a lot to do with the tree huggers too, they wanna increase gasoline taxes to bring the prices back up to record highs that way there is less incentive to drive and waste fuel. argh if i were president haha.
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some pictures my own intake
http://s434.photobucket.com/albums/qq68/Aki-76/imusarjan%20valmistusta/
not ready yet :D
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weve got new international vt275 cabovers at work they come with a v6 powerstroke type engine with a compound system.theres a k17 with a k27 borg warner which took over kkk.seems its the new technology.
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some pictures my own intake
Nice :twisted: keep them comming
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Where did you get the all important bell horns ?
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weve got new international vt275 cabovers at work they come with a v6 powerstroke type engine with a compound system.theres a k17 with a k27 borg warner which took over kkk.seems its the new technology.
Pics ffs :twisted:
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http://i434.photobucket.com/albums/qq68/Aki-76/pakosarjan%20sovittelua/16012009237.jpg
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i'd love to have an intake that served as the air/water intercooler... there wouldn't be any extra plumbing for the intercooler, but all the benefits of one :twisted:
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Thats a good idea. I think the cooler core could stabilize the air flow evenly to the cylinders.
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http://i434.photobucket.com/albums/qq68/Aki-76/pakosarjan%20sovittelua/16012009237.jpg
Looking very good.You are sticking with the AAZ engine?
If you small turbo's compressor housing is held on with a snap ring then you might want to secure the ring so that it can't pop out when the big turbo is force feeding it.Some of the cummins guys had the compressor housings blow of due to the snap ring poping out.
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Aki's turbos will run separetly.
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Hi,
something new here?
Best Regards
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any progress? hope all still goes well...
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I started working with Janne's cylinderhead. Some pictures of the head in progres.
http://s434.photobucket.com/albums/qq68/Aki-76/asiakas%20osia%20ja%20muuta/
maybe next week new photos
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wow!!! You have removed LOTS of material! Nice work!
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ain't it cool how those heads take a beautiful shine when polished :lol:
nice work aki :!:
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whats going on here?
(http://i434.photobucket.com/albums/qq68/Aki-76/moottorin%20osia/SDC10056.jpg)
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that is my own twinturbo piston´s.groove increase valve space and i think i put very serious camshaft,about 285 and 12mm...
Janne´s sylinderhead is full race head without any compromise :twisted:
next week new photos that.
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wooowwwwww
That's amazing. So much work! You guys must have your own machine shop!!! what is the groove in the middle for?
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it´s for air,conduct to pre camber.it´s very important and shape should be smooth.
my own sylinder head is little different shape as usually :twisted:
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Hello guys!
Sorry for not updating for a while - I've been extremely busy with work and school lately...
Aki: Incredible work as usual! We'll have fun when I come over!
And I will want to drool on your own project's special parts too!
I HAVE been working on the Jetta anyway!
The body reinforcements are almost complete, and tomorrow I will take all removable body parts to the paint shop.
I've been sourcing some missing parts too.
Too bad my schedule has bent this far though..
Now it seems the Jetta will be driveable no sooner than April.
On the other hand, a big project like this is something where cutting corners isn't a wise choice so I'll just have to be patient and keep on working.
Thanks for all the interest to all you good people!
I will post some photos of my own in a couple of days!
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it´s for air,conduct to pre camber.it´s very important and shape should be smooth.
my own sylinder head is little different shape as usually :twisted:
There are some guys getting better combustion with "V" grooves on their pistions.... sharp edges.
http://mpgresearch.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=598
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Those are gassers though.
I think jimfoo did this as well for his Rover but he didnt have any before measurements to compair.
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did you break a timing belt?(valve kisses?)
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No, I think he's running oversized valves.
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He most certainly is :)
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Are you going to do ceramic coating?
This is probably the most intensive build i've seen yet. So much bottom end work and alterations. IE. over sized valves! :P and that is some AGGRESSIVE porting going on
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Remember there are two engines talked about here.
The head porting pictures are of my 1.6 engine with AAZ head,
the pistons are from Aki's twin turbo engine.
As for the ceramic coating, both our engines will have that. (Piston tops, combustion chambers, exhaust ports and manifold, possibly also insides of the pre-cups).
Now I hope I had bough those uprated con-rods after all.
The rods are now the only thing that prevent me from going seriously over 200 hp. Well, there's always next time...
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get custom ones, i am considering it, and i'm not doing half the stuff you are, such as the girdle and ceramic coating, the rods really seem to be what fails on these motors when they're built, i'm not planning on getting 200hp tho either.
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Remember there are two engines talked about here.
The head porting pictures are of my 1.6 engine with AAZ head,
the pistons are from Aki's twin turbo engine.
As for the ceramic coating, both our engines will have that. (Piston tops, combustion chambers, exhaust ports and manifold, possibly also insides of the pre-cups).
Now I hope I had bough those uprated con-rods after all.
The rods are now the only thing that prevent me from going seriously over 200 hp. Well, there's always next time...
watch out on coating the swirl chambers... the design of the motor requires them to be quite hot to ignite the diesel effectively. i would think that coating them to limit the heat transfer to the head might actually work though... if anything, you would want a coating that would enhance heat transfer inside the swirl chamber, but i think its already good enough.
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OK, finally a little update.
Like I said, I have been very busy lately, so I haven't been able to work on the Jetta as much as I would have liked.
The bodywork is still under way, but I like to think it'll be done in a week or so.
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Kori/th_IMG_3748.jpg) (http://s232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Kori/?action=view¤t=IMG_3748.jpg)(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Kori/th_IMG_3753.jpg) (http://s232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Kori/?action=view¤t=IMG_3753.jpg)(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Kori/th_IMG_3770.jpg) (http://s232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Kori/?action=view¤t=IMG_3770.jpg)
The door surrounds are complete. The welding luckily didn't distort the panels, so the doors and trim went back on beautifully after the work was done. Of the windscreen surround I drilled only the sides and the upper part, as the lower part had aready been welded pretty much through when repairing the rust damage. Next will be the engine bay, and then the reinforcings are done.
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Kori/th_IMG_3763.jpg) (http://s232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Kori/?action=view¤t=IMG_3763.jpg)(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Kori/th_IMG_3765.jpg) (http://s232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Kori/?action=view¤t=IMG_3765.jpg)
I test fitted the front wings and cut the arches to allow more room for the wheels. The wings became really flexy after removing the inner lip from the arches! Then of course the plastic arch trims also needed attention...
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Kori/th_IMG_3773.jpg) (http://s232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Kori/?action=view¤t=IMG_3773.jpg)(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Kori/th_IMG_3775.jpg) (http://s232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Kori/?action=view¤t=IMG_3775.jpg)
Old trusty dremel tool proved useful in trimming the plastic arches.
I hope the openings are big enough, since the arches and wings are now at the paint shop. Not going to be easy to further modify them after they are painted. And no - I'm definetely not painting them body colour! The plastic parts will get a nice matt-black coating to make them look like they did when they left the factory.
When I took all the parts to the paint shop, I noticed that my original arch trims had some serious damage, and even some pieces missing.
So I had to find some replacements. That was not easy!
New arches cost 100€ + apiece at the $tealership, and used ones I came by, were all even worse than those I had.
Finally I found a set that did have broken parts, but different parts to my set. So I combined 4 arches from a set of eight. As a result, I only had to repair two bigger cracks. Here's the picture:
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Kori/th_IMG_3776.jpg) (http://s232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Kori/?action=view¤t=IMG_3776.jpg)(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Kori/th_IMG_3777.jpg) (http://s232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Kori/?action=view¤t=IMG_3777.jpg)
Soldering iron fixed the cracks in no time, and after the arches are grinded smooth and painted over, no-one's gonna know.
Sure beats paying 600€ for a full set of new side trims!!!
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Kori/th_DSC00002.jpg) (http://s232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Kori/?action=view¤t=DSC00002.jpg)(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Kori/th_IMG_3779.jpg) (http://s232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Kori/?action=view¤t=IMG_3779.jpg)(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Kori/th_IMG_3781.jpg) (http://s232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Kori/?action=view¤t=IMG_3781.jpg)(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Kori/th_DSC00004.jpg) (http://s232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Kori/?action=view¤t=DSC00004.jpg)
All the parts that came off, were taken to the paint shop this week.
The paint guy started the work right away. I should be getting all these back in a few days, and in about three weeks' time the complete body should be done. This means a lot of work to be done in the following days.
Expect some nice engine footage after next weekend - I'll be going to meet Aki at his garage and we're going to be working on my engine.
Aki's told the AAZ head should be ready by then. I can hardly wait!
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my own twin turbo crankshaft just arrived balancing..
http://i434.photobucket.com/albums/qq68/Aki-76/moottorin%20osia/IMG_3806.jpg
weight is 1,2 kg lighter vs. orginal :twisted:
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aki, I Sent you a pm re. the 1Y diesel engine, did you get it?
crank looks 8)
i'd love to build a big power motor!
cheers!
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Things are moving on, and as promised, here are the latest pictures.
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Kori/th_IMG_3787.jpg) (http://s232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Kori/?action=view¤t=IMG_3787.jpg)(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Kori/th_IMG_3789.jpg) (http://s232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Kori/?action=view¤t=IMG_3789.jpg)(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Kori/th_IMG_3794.jpg) (http://s232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Kori/?action=view¤t=IMG_3794.jpg)(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Kori/th_IMG_3798.jpg) (http://s232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Kori/?action=view¤t=IMG_3798.jpg)
The bodywork's reinforcement weldings are now done.
All together it took about 600 welds.
Spot welds on the door frames and the wind screen frame, and some seam welds on the front shock turrets.
I'm not sure how much all this has affected the rigidity of the body,
but just by jerking the inner fender panels by hand,
you can definetely feel a difference after seam welding all the
(plentiful) factory seams on the turrets.
The complete feedback will of course only be available once the car is driveable once more,
but then, all suspension components have changed too, so it will be difficult to spot which upgrade has the most effect.
If you have personal experience on a spot-welded bodywork, let me know!
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When I ordered my stress bars through the eBay, I got the wrong bar for the front turrets, so I sold it on and Aki volunteered to fabricate a custom stress bar to fit the Jetta with the modified 1Y intake manifold.
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Alusta/th_IMG_3816.jpg) (http://s232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Alusta/?action=view¤t=IMG_3816.jpg)
Compared to the usual commercial offerings, these turret-top plates are really heavy-duty. The plates are some 8 mm thick and the bar itself will be much straighter than on the usual kits, so this thing should really help improve the front end's rigidity. A coat of paint to match the engine bay's hue is coming along.
A lesson here: Never buy cheap aftermarket A-arms.
To this point, I have already had to buy three sets of new A-arms, and still not fit one set.
I have the Prothane polyurethane bushing kit, and the bushings all have the the same dimensions as OE stock arms. So, none of the cheap aftermarket arms would work with these bushings, since the arms had all the wrong size mounting points.
Now I bought a set of German-made Lemförder A-arms, and obviously, they are of the right dimensions. I will NEVER ever buy the chinese crap anymore, be it not intercoolers or door handles :lol:
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Alusta/th_IMG_3785.jpg) (http://s232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Alusta/?action=view¤t=IMG_3785.jpg)
After removing the rubber bushings from the crappy Chinese A-arms, I noticed the different dimensions. The two arms from the same factory even had 2mm difference between them!!!
I had also bought a brand new aftermarket subframe, which had the same exact problem. That, luckily, I was able to return for a full refund. Then I got a rust free OE subrame for 1/10th of the price. Sometimes you DON'T get what yoy pay for...
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The cylinder head is ready apart from ceramic coating and re-assembly:
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Tekniikka/th_IMG_3840.jpg) (http://s232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Tekniikka/?action=view¤t=IMG_3840.jpg)(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Tekniikka/th_IMG_3838.jpg) (http://s232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Tekniikka/?action=view¤t=IMG_3838.jpg)
The head was almost new to begin with, so I should have a good starting point in terms of potential head failure.
The inlet ports were enlargened quite a bit, the exhaust ones a bit less just to be safe. The head has been re-planed (how do you say that in English?)
and the valves are mounted deeper into the head to allow for the increased lift of the performance cam.
The valve guides have also been re-shaped:
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Tekniikka/th_IMG_3846.jpg) (http://s232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Tekniikka/?action=view¤t=IMG_3846.jpg)
It's a venturi shape of sorts, one that apparently works quite well on VW 8V heads.
The valves themselves got some attention too.
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Tekniikka/th_IMG_3822.jpg) (http://s232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Tekniikka/?action=view¤t=IMG_3822.jpg)(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Tekniikka/th_IMG_3828.jpg) (http://s232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Tekniikka/?action=view¤t=IMG_3828.jpg)(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Tekniikka/th_IMG_3841.jpg) (http://s232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Tekniikka/?action=view¤t=IMG_3841.jpg)
The valves have a full angle, lapping and polishing job.
We sanded the valve heads to 400 grade. Not mirror-smooth by any means, but a big improvement none the less. Besides the valves were almost new to begin with. The angle job should improve flow quite noticeably too.
As you can see, the valves sit quite deep in the head.
That and the 3-notch H/G (it had a 1-notch originally) will help the valves keep as smooth as they are.
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Tekniikka/th_IMG_3847.jpg) (http://s232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Tekniikka/?action=view¤t=IMG_3847.jpg)(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Tekniikka/th_IMG_3850.jpg) (http://s232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Tekniikka/?action=view¤t=IMG_3850.jpg)
There's almost 1 mm difference on how deep the valves sit compared to a stock AAZ head. That will also lower the compression ratio, which is no bad thing considering how high it is on a stock engine. You can also see how the combustion chambers and pre-cup openings have been re-shaped on the first picture.
This week I will be getting my bumpers, doors and plastic trim from the paint shop. The complete body goes in next week, and within a month I should be able to start putting it all back together. Actually, I only need a clutch now, and some little detail parts, then it's just fitting and finishing ( I WISH... :P )
Anyway, the beast should be ready to hit the street just before summer, so I hope no more nasty surprises.
BTW, this is how we left the Passat that gave us a TD-spec 02A gearbox:
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Tekniikka/th_IMG_3814.jpg) (http://s232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Tekniikka/?action=view¤t=IMG_3814.jpg)
With the 0.71 5th gear, I'm aiming to reach a top speed of 150 mph.
We'll see how that goes!
Once more, thank you for all the great work and help, Aki, Marko and Esa!
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Very nice head !! Has anyone powder coated theirs when its this clean ?
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nope, but I might when I do my next one as I will have some time to do it.
great idea!
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wow wow wow u guys are really doing it and going all out damn.
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Thanks for all the positive feedback!
Anyway, I'm currently in the process of repainting my 'new' subframe and steering rack. What's curious is that the subframe has 'made in Mexico' or the equivalent Spanish words on it, and the steering rack (power steering) has USA on it.
They both came off a German import Golf GTI 16V.
Did they really put American made parts on German-built Golfs?
Just wondering, I thought it was strange.
Furthermore, will the US-made steering rack be interchangeable with my original TRW rack?
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i am cruious about a few things that the finnish may know since you guys seem to tune these engines much more than many other countries, will a 2 piece plastic sdi intake clear a 1.6td injection pump? i don't have my td car anymore since the body shop has had it captive for ages now and i am just really curious if i have a nice upgraded intake or a paper weight. i have it bolted it to my 1.9 head but i just cant tell it is too close to tell.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v306/Trev0rbr/DSC03155.jpg)
also how is the 20v tdi coming along?
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Aki's doing an AAZ twin turbo first, 20V TDI is next 8)
As for the intake, AFAIK it should fit fine. No experience on my own, but that's what I've been told.
BTW, What do you mean the body shop's keeping your car captive?
You ARE getting it back, right? :P
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i better get it back its a mk1 jetta coupe, mk1s are hard enough to find around here, a jetta coupe is even worse. it took him a year to get it done and i want him to fix a few blemishes and i think he is just ***ing around about fixing them so that i will throw a fit and just come get it.
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i got a chance to look at my dads mk2 td i really doubt it will fit now that i have had a chance, i sat my bare head with the sdi intake on it in the engine bay to compare, the lda is just too high it looks like it will hit in many places. maybe it would work on an na motor or a td with a jx pump. it looks as though even the injector lines could cause issues
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Too bad.. But at least it will be easy to sell the SDi intake to the TDI people.
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Time for our weekly update :)
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Well, I HAVE been busy with the car, so I will update this topic soon.
All the pictures are divided between two cameras, and I need to get them on my computer first.
So, an update will follow in a couple of days :)
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Janne´s engine look very cool,and this week it´s ready ( i hope = )..
"High end motor",ceramic coating,big flow head,modified s1bg turbo.Spring (dynoday) we see results :twisted:
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:D :D :D :D :D :D :twisted: :twisted: :twisted: :twisted: :twisted:
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I am very interested in this project as it is right on line with what I am building. The intake manifold you have built based off the 1Y is very nice and will allow you to run heavy boost and high rpms while giving nice even airflow, protecting your conecting rods. I will also be getting a 1Y intake and would very much like to do the same dual plenum modification you have performed.
On this engine, what is your opinion if a vnt turbo was to be used. Say a gt1749vb with mechanical control. It should be able to give 25psi very easy, all day long. It will also produce the boost very quickly which is nice, but high boost at low rpms can be hard on the connecting rods. I kept the stock rods but completly rebuild them, had arp connecting rod bolts installed, resized etc. As I could not afford custom h-beam rods, I improved what I could and had the sides polished and shot peened to get the most out of them that I could. I hope it helps. Here is a photo:
(http://i239.photobucket.com/albums/ff120/subsonic44/DSCN0361.jpg)[/quote]
I will be aiming for the 150-170hp range with the hopes of using this as a reliable daily fun driver in the summer months. It will be connected to a
02A CTN transmission out of a diesel passat. It has very long gears to wind out and let the turbo and rpm's work. I have a euro spec g60 lightened flywheel and a vr6 pressure plate to transfer the power. I have to build it piece by piece as I can afford it, but if I want it to be fast and powerful AND reliable it needs to be done correctly. Lots of research before each part selection. Your build is just the kind of research I love to find :)
Jim
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I'll be watching your build with interest for sure! ( Nice rods BTW)
Hopefully the beasts are all ready for summer!
My working rate with the Jetta has gone up - now I use 4 to 5 days a week building it. Wife's still around which is a surprise really :P
Next week I aim to take the body to the paint shop - doors and bumpers are done already. Pictures will follow shortly...
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lucky you, my girlfriend throws a fit when ever i take out a few hours on a saturday for normal maintenance crap like brakes and oil changes. but i guess i'm so great that its hard for her to be with out me haha.
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lucky you, my girlfriend throws a fit when ever i take out a few hours on a saturday for normal maintenance crap like brakes and oil changes. but i guess i'm so great that its hard for her to be with out me haha.
:roll: :lol:
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OK, finally updating the topic.
I really do not like deadlines, but spring is coming and the paint shop is busy, so I have to get the body ready for painting before the end of next week. The finishing touches are always the most time-consuming as you good people no doubt very well know.
I decided to do the engine compartment myself. That'll save a couple of hours of prepping work for the paint guy.
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Kori/th_2009_03090032.jpg) (http://s232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Kori/?action=view¤t=2009_03090032.jpg)(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Kori/th_2009_03090045.jpg) (http://s232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Kori/?action=view¤t=2009_03090045.jpg)
I probably should have stripped it all to bare metal, but the factory primer is so good I didn't want to remove any when not necessery.
The whole engine bay was actually in very good shape. Only minor rust spots and the turrets were both just fine.
But since the seams were reinforced anyway, the factory seam sealer had to come off, and boy, is that messy!
Drilling holes for the strut brace proved very challenging...
Metal on the right-hand side turret top was unbelieveably hard. We spent several special-hardened drills to get the four holes done. The other side was just your typical sheet steel. Go figure...
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Kori/th_2009_03090049.jpg) (http://s232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Kori/?action=view¤t=2009_03090049.jpg)
New seam sealer and primer applied.
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Kori/th_2009_03090052.jpg) (http://s232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Kori/?action=view¤t=2009_03090052.jpg)
Yeah, I know the seams aren't shaved, but the Finnish four seasons demand some thought for rust prevention. And the bare welds wouldn't have been pretty anyway.
Switching to a 02A gearbox meant holes had to be made to the firewall for the clutch master cylinder and the Passat pedal assembly.
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Kori/th_IMG_3858.jpg) (http://s232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Kori/?action=view¤t=IMG_3858.jpg)
You can just see the extra holes in the picture. The master cylinder will go to the right from the brake servo and steering column.
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Kori/th_2009_03090044.jpg) (http://s232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Kori/?action=view¤t=2009_03090044.jpg)
Passat pedals. The clutch pedal has it's mounting point further to the left than the Golf/Jetta pedal set, so new mounting holes were needed too, even though the Passat pedal set is a 'bolt on' of sorts.
Maybe I'll need a reinforging plate between the brake and clutch pushrod holes, the firewall is very flexible as you know.
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Kori/th_2009_03090029.jpg) (http://s232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Kori/?action=view¤t=2009_03090029.jpg)
Passat pedals test fitted.
After all the modifications had been made to the firewall, more priming followed...
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Kori/th_IMG_3888.jpg) (http://s232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Kori/?action=view¤t=IMG_3888.jpg)
And finally the first coat of Tornado Rot:
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Kori/th_IMG_3899.jpg) (http://s232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Kori/?action=view¤t=IMG_3899.jpg)
sorry about the crappy picture, my camera doesn't work well with fluorescent lights :P
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...meanwhile at the paint shop:
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Kori/th_IMG_3852.jpg) (http://s232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Kori/?action=view¤t=IMG_3852.jpg)(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Kori/th_IMG_3853.jpg) (http://s232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Kori/?action=view¤t=IMG_3853.jpg)
Hood and trunk lid have been primed and await their turn in the 'oven'.
Doors are done, and they do look pretty good in the flesh, even though my puny photo skills hardly do them justice.
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Kori/th_IMG_3856.jpg) (http://s232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Kori/?action=view¤t=IMG_3856.jpg)
Both bumpers half-way done. Body colour sprayed on first, and matt black finish to the upper parts will follow. The rear bumper had taken a few hits in its 18-year life, so lots of elastic platic padding had to be applied. It turned OK after all, and I'm not after 100% showroom finish anyway. It's a freakin' diesel for crying out loud!
The same OEM -style matt-black finish was needed for the side trim and arches too, which meant more smoothing, etching and filling:
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Kori/th_IMG_3854.jpg) (http://s232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Kori/?action=view¤t=IMG_3854.jpg)
I think the black bits turned out OK - it's not the exact same colour as it was from the factory, but it's close enough. And at least the trim looks fresh now, and is all of the same hue.
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Kori/th_IMG_3878.jpg) (http://s232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Kori/?action=view¤t=IMG_3878.jpg)(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Kori/th_IMG_3880.jpg) (http://s232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Kori/?action=view¤t=IMG_3880.jpg)(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Kori/th_IMG_3884.jpg) (http://s232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Kori/?action=view¤t=IMG_3884.jpg)
The all-important badgeless grille also had to have its lower stripe painted...
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Kori/th_IMG_3866.jpg) (http://s232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Kori/?action=view¤t=IMG_3866.jpg)
And yes, the dust IS everywhere!
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Here are some of the parts I have collected from various sources.
I'm really glad I can soon start to put it all together - absolutely everywhere is filled with VW parts! My home, the parent's house, the garage, the warehouse, you name it. It's incredible really how many parts even the most simple 80's car ( = VW ) has when you really scatter it all around.
Anyway, here's my new skid plate:
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Kori/th_IMG_3875.jpg) (http://s232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Kori/?action=view¤t=IMG_3875.jpg)
...proudly made in Russia! :twisted: It even has some 'cool' Russian letters on the oil plug cover, the meaning of which I haven't the slightest of clues.
'Smoke style Hella rear lights, originally out of a Jetta GTX ( 16V GTI equivalent euro-spec model ). On the left my 'a bit' faded original rear lights.
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Kori/th_IMG_3882.jpg) (http://s232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Kori/?action=view¤t=IMG_3882.jpg)
Momo Monte Carlo steering wheel. It has the same diameter as the original VW wheel, which made this particular wheel my only choice.
I HATE too small space-age wheels!!
BTW, the Momo cost me 15 € on eBay 8)
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Sisusta/th_IMG_3489.jpg) (http://s232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Sisusta/?action=view¤t=IMG_3489.jpg)
The venerable Votex center console, complete with Votex 3-gauge holder panel. Got these by change and I'm quite glad since this is the only way to fit 6 auxiliary gauges in OEM style. (I have a 3-DIN panel for the original radio slot too). As for the gauges, well, I would 've iked VDO, but the price for all six would've been INSANE. So Autogauge it is. I hope it won't look too 'ricey'.
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Sisusta/th_IMG_3881.jpg) (http://s232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Sisusta/?action=view¤t=IMG_3881.jpg)(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Sisusta/th_IMG_3874.jpg) (http://s232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Sisusta/?action=view¤t=IMG_3874.jpg)
I got a complete '89 Golf GTI 16V interior off a German-imported parts car. It has some small imperfections, but the seats have no wear on them at all, which has to be very rare. The colour scheme isn't the best possible for a red car, but it's not like you can choose the one you like...
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Sisusta/th_IMG_3865.jpg) (http://s232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Sisusta/?action=view¤t=IMG_3865.jpg)(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Sisusta/th_IMG_3876.jpg) (http://s232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Sisusta/?action=view¤t=IMG_3876.jpg)(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Sisusta/th_IMG_3868.jpg) (http://s232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Sisusta/?action=view¤t=IMG_3868.jpg)
On the first picture you can see the horrible things I've done to my parents' attic... And if you look closely, you can see how the bumpers turned out. What say you?
The new radiator:
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Tekniikka/th_IMG_3867.jpg) (http://s232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Tekniikka/?action=view¤t=IMG_3867.jpg)
The Passat TD 02A gearbox:
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Tekniikka/th_2009_03090037.jpg) (http://s232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Tekniikka/?action=view¤t=2009_03090037.jpg)
This one was a *** to wash. It took 3 hours, many types of solvents and an industrial steam washing machine. The toughest agricultural poisons eventually bit through the grime and soon I can start the finishing touches.
I can hardly wait :roll:
Aki made me this really nice catch tank (thanks!!):
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Tekniikka/th_IMG_3863.jpg) (http://s232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Tekniikka/?action=view¤t=IMG_3863.jpg)
It even has a 'tap' below the tank, to allow fitment of a drain hose.
You know, put a jar under the car and turn the tap - voilá - oil residue drained. Too cool...
Braided steel brake lines and a Wiechers K-bar brace, ARB loops, mangled fenders...
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Alusta/th_IMG_3886.jpg) (http://s232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Alusta/?action=view¤t=IMG_3886.jpg)
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Still going to keep the original anti-roll bars.
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Alusta/th_2009_03090039.jpg) (http://s232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Alusta/?action=view¤t=2009_03090039.jpg)
I figure there are so many improvements on the chassis already that it may not need thicker bars. We'll see how it turns out if I get the car on to a race track come summer.
My 'new' subframe needed a new layer of paint:
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Alusta/th_2009_03090041.jpg) (http://s232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Alusta/?action=view¤t=2009_03090041.jpg)(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Alusta/th_IMG_3895.jpg) (http://s232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Alusta/?action=view¤t=IMG_3895.jpg)
Guess who'll be repainting some walls soon...
Yet another set of A-arms stripped of the original rubber bushings.
This time true German quality from Lemförder.
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Alusta/th_IMG_3892.jpg) (http://s232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Alusta/?action=view¤t=IMG_3892.jpg)
I got a low-miles power steering rack thrown in when I bought the subframe, so now I have two to choose from. Nice how sometimes you get the good deals too, although that hardly makes the whole project financially sane!
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Alusta/th_2009_03090042.jpg) (http://s232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Alusta/?action=view¤t=2009_03090042.jpg)
The rear axle requires some minor maintenance:
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Alusta/th_2009_03090036.jpg) (http://s232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Alusta/?action=view¤t=2009_03090036.jpg)
I just know I'm going to learn many new curse words with that one.
OK, that's it for now! I'll be working extra hard the next 6 days to get the car to the paint shop by next thursday. I'll keep you guys posted how everything goes. We might even see a complete engine somewhere in the near(ish) future. Now I just have to fing me a flywheel and a good clutch kit and I'm mostly set to begin bolting things together.
Suggestions, comments and questions are again welcome!
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you sure are working hard at it!
You are lucky to have the time and people surrounding you to get this project going, my projekt Fox will probably take me at least a year to get this far :oops:
BTW deadlines SUCK but they have a way of pushing you to get it done :P
keep up the amazing work :twisted:
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nice nothing is over looked.
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What is so special about the 02A gearbox?
Maybe i have found a complete Passat 1.9TD engine-gearbox with the wiregearbox.
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The 02A is a stronger gearbox than the 020. It will support larger power and torque. It also allows you to use a larger and stronger pressure plate / clutch combination. The 020 is a good transmission but has some faults that need to be corrected for power use. If you look up the phrase "self machining" it will describe it. There are some more differences that others will describe I am sure.
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The 02A is a stronger gearbox than the 020. It will support larger power and torque. It also allows you to use a larger and stronger pressure plate / clutch combination. The 020 is a good transmission but has some faults that need to be corrected for power use. If you look up the phrase "self machining" it will describe it. There are some more differences that others will describe I am sure.
Okey sounds great.
Will the gearbox fit the older mk1 golf caddy jettas ?
The gearbox looks to be a little bit wider.
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Okey sounds great.
Will the gearbox fit the older mk1 golf caddy jettas ?
The gearbox looks to be a little bit wider.
You will have to make it fit. You need to make your own brackets and driveshafts for example.
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Hey, nice to have some positive feedback again!
I've really been busting my back with the car lately, so it's great to see you guys are interested on the project!
Still a few steps from the paint shop, but it's getting there...
One good thing about deadlines is that I know when I get to ease off a little.
It's surreal how the Jetta has taken hold of my days, but it'll all be worth it once I get it up and running ( I hope ).
Dirtrag2: A year to do a full-scale performance project isn't bad really.
Mine has taken me 8 months to this day, and it'll take two more at least to get in finished. And I have worked on the car every single week of the 8 month, if not exactly every day.
DYNOMAX: The 02A gearbox is actually shorter in width than the 020. Only the driveshaft flanges are a little wider apart. So, size-wise it fits the Mk1 Golf/Jetta even better than the 020, but you need different driveshafts.
A couple of questions about my brakes and clutch hydraulics, If you guys can help me here:
-My brake calipers have just been sand blasted, but unfortunately the slide 'bolts' (I don't know the English word) got detached and so sand was able to enter the slide holes. Now the smooth-machined mating surfaces are somewhat rough to the touch and the walls on the holes also.
It's not bad, but it's noticeable. Will good grease make them work, or should I get replacement calipers / slide bridges (whatever that is in English...)
-When fitting the clutch master cylinder, does it matter which way round I fit it? Like, does it affect bleeding of the system if it sits the wrong way round. Should the pipe connector face up or down?
Yeah, stupid I guess, but I can't know everything... :oops:
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clutch faces upwards, doubt it matters.
The calipers are not expensive brand new (might be 80euro a pair?) so i wouldn't waste my time, the play can be noticable on just used calipers so these 'may' have gone too far. the slider pins wear slower than the softer cast iron usually making the caliper 'baggy' and loose
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I have G60 brakes, so the calipers are Girling 54.
I doubt you can find new ones for that kind of money.
But if you can, please let me know where! I would buy a set in a heart beat.
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I'll check on another forum, a guy on there has the same calipers and having a simialar problem as you and was only quoted what i said, I'll see! lol
http://www.clubgti.com/forum/showthread.php?t=187149
post #11
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:O
where can i get one of those center consoles???
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eBay
They're an OE Volkswagen accessory, but today ofcourse they're all used and old.
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wow what a project but the end product is definantly going to be worth it, looks likek its definantly going to be putting dowm some good hp and tq numbers, adn the fact that pretty well no detail has been missed is awesome :) well done.
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i am think that with this build... you should be able to far exceed 200hp
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you gotta post some dyno numbers on here when done, i think we'd all like to see them :)
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I will post up my dyno results when I have them for sure!
My goal is to take the car to a dyno late May. We'll see about that..
About power - I also think over 200 hp would be relatively easy to achieve.
However, I won't set it up to run at 230 hp, but keep it at around 200 instead. We'll see on the dyno how much power the engine pushes when not stressed to the limit, and just keep it there for time being. No unnecessery risks the first time round!
When I get some custom con-rods, then I'll turn the screw up... :twisted:
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How many km's are you planning on putting on the engine to let it break in before you start to increase the boost and fuel?
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1500-2000 maybe... rings are already broken in as they were used for 15 k km after last rebuilt. Other than that, I don't see much benefit in a very long breaking-in period.
Modern motor oils are so good anyway, that the engine should be pretty well protected from the start.
Besides, I want to get the engine dyno-tuned as soon as possible, so I'll know it's running at optimum performance. Bad pump settings, for example, can cause more harm than 'forgetting' to break the thing in!
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A healthy engine needs only a very short running-in period.
The mainbearings etc allready got their clearance.
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What injectors are you planning on using? 1.6td, 1.9n/a single stage, or 1.9td dual stage?
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1.9td dual stage.
Aki told me they're the best OE alternatives and I trust Aki in everything diesel related! :)
BTW, I've just spent some of the most insane days of my life, putting the Jetta together for the paint shop. There were a lot of nasty surprises in the last few yards, so I've been working like a madman.
Now I have to get some sleep, in 5 hours I'll take the car to the paint shop.
Those gleamy new suspension parts really make it all worthwhile...
I think this thing is going to be loads of fun already when I start fitting all the goodies on it! Let alone drive it as 2.2 bar of boost pressure... 8)
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Just think, you are almost done and will be able to take a break and rest!
Will you be using the stock aaz nozzle in the injector? Will you keep the pop / breaking pressure of the injectors at oem setting?
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Will you be using the stock aaz nozzle in the injector? Will you keep the pop / breaking pressure of the injectors at oem setting?
Yes on both counts :)
Apparently the limit of OE AAZ injectrors is around 70-80 hp, so I won't need special injectors or nozzles at this point.
When I upgrade the engine in the future, I might get some biodiesel injectors, they're supposed to be the new hotness.
The car is finally at the paint shop, so maybe I really can take a little break now!
Thanks for all the input and comments, fellows!
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Time to update again 8)
Like I said, I worked very hard the last two weeks to get the bodywork ready to be painted. There were lots of nice little surprises as the work went on...
The inner fenders had to be rust proofed of course:
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Kori/th_2009_03260009.jpg) (http://s232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Kori/?action=view¤t=2009_03260009.jpg)
I think I'll add a couple layers more, as the plastic inner fender guards won't fit, I'm going to need a lot of protection for the wheel wells.
The front fenders had to be lined up to fit the front doors:
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Kori/th_2009_03260018.jpg) (http://s232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Kori/?action=view¤t=2009_03260018.jpg)
Both sides needed cutting, forcing and bending to make them fit.
Still they're not perfect - I really should have stuck with original front fenders. We'll see how it looks when it's all painted.
Speaking of the nice surprises that I found:
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Kori/th_2009_03260023.jpg) (http://s232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Kori/?action=view¤t=2009_03260023.jpg)(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Kori/th_2009_03260025.jpg) (http://s232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Kori/?action=view¤t=2009_03260025.jpg)(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Kori/th_2009_03260027.jpg) (http://s232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Kori/?action=view¤t=2009_03260027.jpg)
..and remember, this was less than 24 hours from the moment when I was to take the car to the paint shop.
So I needed to repair the multiple new-found holes.
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Kori/th_2009_03260028.jpg) (http://s232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Kori/?action=view¤t=2009_03260028.jpg)(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Kori/th_2009_03260031.jpg) (http://s232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Kori/?action=view¤t=2009_03260031.jpg)(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Kori/th_2009_03260030.jpg) (http://s232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Kori/?action=view¤t=2009_03260030.jpg)
Luckily these holes won't be visible to the outside of the car, so I didn't need to make the repairs pretty...
The next surprise came when I tried to finish the windshield wiper holes.
One that we had welded up earlier, gave up when drilling the new hole, and the other just had too thin metal around. I was in a terrible hurry at this point, so I just welded on a couple of washers there, and called it a day! (or should I say night...)
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Kori/th_2009_03260032.jpg) (http://s232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Kori/?action=view¤t=2009_03260032.jpg)(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Kori/th_2009_03260034.jpg) (http://s232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Kori/?action=view¤t=2009_03260034.jpg)
The next morning the Jetta was on its own four feet for the first time since last July:
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Kori/th_2009_03260043.jpg) (http://s232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Kori/?action=view¤t=2009_03260043.jpg)
Speaking of feet, there they are:
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Alusta/th_2009_03260036.jpg) (http://s232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Alusta/?action=view¤t=2009_03260036.jpg)
Cheapo Raceland coil-overs and Passat 16V hub carriers.
I just hope the new and recently repainted suspension parts don't get covered in Tornado Red paint mist after the paint job!
Onto the trailer:
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Kori/th_2009_03260047.jpg) (http://s232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Kori/?action=view¤t=2009_03260047.jpg)(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Kori/th_2009_03260049.jpg) (http://s232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Kori/?action=view¤t=2009_03260049.jpg)
She ain't pretty yet, but she does look better than two weeks ago.
And soon I'll post some piccies of the new paint job 8)
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Coming along nicely :)
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Have you ever figured out how many man hours you and Aki-76 have into this project total? You guys are just going at it like men possessed! I love it! I wish you guys lived next door to my house!
I have a turbo question for you. Did you ever consider a VNT style turbo? Something like a GT2256v, 2259v or 2260v? I don't rember the turbo you said you are using, I will have to go back and do some reading of your early posts. Do you thing the ones above would be big enough for what you want to do?
Jim
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Thanks for the feedback!
subsonic, I never considered a VNT turbo, because at my power level, the low-down torque would just be too much. Con-rods wouldn't stand a chance.
I think if I ever do an Evo II build, I will look into compound turbos instead, or perhaps just upgrade my current turbo a bit further.
The turbo I have now is a Schwitzer S1BG with 39 mm and 46 mm inducer / exducer respectively. It's currently at a turbo shop being modified to a 42 mm inducer. That should give it around 230 hp capacity, if our calculations are correct. Experience from people who have put these turbos to 1.6 TDs tell me that it should act much like a well tuned N/A gasser - very smooth power and torque curves and no spikes to hurt the rods. That is exactly what I'm after. This turbo is originally form an agricultural tractor, so it's pretty heavy duty despite its smallish size, and it can withstand constant boost of 2 bar + ( 30 PSI + ).
About the turbos you mention - I really wouldn't know as I haven't looked at VNT turbos at all for this project. Someone with personal experience will know how those would work.
About the elapsed hours of work - well, since last July I've worked on the car every week, and at least 10-15 hours a week, so that should give a rough estimate! I never expected it to take so many hours, but the bodywork had so many hidden surprises in store that it just happened.
Meanwhile, Aki has been working on my engine quite a bit, and a couple of my other friends have frequently stopped by to help, so I guess there have been quite a lot of man hours involved! But the work has to be done, otherways the car will never run...
I hope the car will be up and running before June, but there's definetely a lot of work to be done still!
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Turboj,
off topic here but I'm curious... what is your favorite Beer ? prety important for a tear down/ rebuild like this :lol:
keep it up I can't wait to see videos of a running car. :wink:
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To keep things German, I would have to say dark Erdinger Weissbier! 8)
Yesterday I cleaned up the garage so it's less dusty when the body gets back from the paint shop ( you can imagine how dirty it was after 9 months of grinding, cutting and welding )... So I have done something else besides drinking beer! :P
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i am curious what you or one of your friends thinks of the holset hy35w turbocharger if i end up going through with my 1.6/1.9 id like to use this turbo because they have an internal wastegate and are cheap and plentiful from the dodge cummins turbo diesel trucks.
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Once you go unfiltered wheat beer, you never go back to regular beer!
(http://www.genx40.com/images/beerblog/hefe3.JPG)
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i am curious what you or one of your friends thinks of the holset hy35w turbocharger if i end up going through with my 1.6/1.9 id like to use this turbo because they have an internal wastegate and are cheap and plentiful from the dodge cummins turbo diesel trucks.
Someone had one on an AAZ, and it was too big - didn't really spool up at all.. But what are the dimensions? There are different HY35s. A smaller one could work just fine.
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this is what i found its the measurement from an hx35w but they have the same compressor but different turbine side from what i understand i'm still. i'm trying to find the hy35w's turbine side
Compressor minor/major: 2.077"(52.75mm)/3.0645"(77.84mm)
Turbine minor/major: 2.2825"(57.98mm)/2.5670"(65.20mm)
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Once you go unfiltered wheat beer, you never go back to regular beer!
(http://www.genx40.com/images/beerblog/hefe3.JPG)
yum!!! now a couple of those is like a full course meal :lol:
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The hy35 from the doge cummins has a 54mm inducer?? Too big unless you rev the engine to 5500 rpm.It will only start to get moving at 4000 +.Heck its even a touch bigger than what I'm running for a primary turbo on my compound setup.An hx30 would work ok but a Schwitzer like turboJ has is using would be best yet.Or a 50 trim T3.
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ok, i do not understand turbo sizing very well, but i would like to somewhat copy what dave did with his 200hp build(he did only reach 195hp though) but he used a t3/t4 60trim .63 ar. so i wanted to find something similar to this which came with surge protection, and an internal waste gate, viola the hy35w is supposed to be a similar sized turbo that is said to spool much faster. but since i do not understand turbo sizing very well, it's hard for me to make such a call, but i do know that dave was revving to nearly 6k.
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Once you go unfiltered wheat beer, you never go back to regular beer!
YES !! Especially if its on tap in Germany ! You can get crap faced every night and not get a hang-over. They have purity laws there - no chemicals in their beer.
I make beer like this at home. It take about 3 - 4 weeks, but it worth it. Blue Moon is very similar and its severed on tap around here.
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ok, i do not understand turbo sizing very well, but i would like to somewhat copy what dave did with his 200hp build(he did only reach 195hp though) but he used a t3/t4 60trim .63 ar. so i wanted to find something similar to this which came with surge protection, and an internal waste gate, viola the hy35w is supposed to be a similar sized turbo that is said to spool much faster. but since i do not understand turbo sizing very well, it's hard for me to make such a call, but i do know that dave was revving to nearly 6k.
Yes you can run a big turbo and get good hp but you will loose tons of torque.Using a smaller turbo will give much more torque at lower rpm.I don't want to operate a diesel that has gasser like torque otherwise I'd have a gasser.We don't need to rev the diesels past 5000 rpm to keep up with the gasser its all about the torque :wink:
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T3 is slightly too big for me in everyday driving. I only really see boost on my 1.6/1.9 at 0.5 throttle or more. at WOT it will pin my gauge at 30 pretty quick though but no higher than 30 i wouldn't think.
If you're just having a psi competition i guess a big turbo would be nice? hit 50psi if you can ruddy fuel it enough!
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ok i see. maybe an hx30 would be a better choice.
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A small update once again.
The bodyshell is at the paint shop, and it should apparently be ready in a couple of days.
Here's a couple of pics...
Some filler was needed because of slight welding-induced distortion where we fixed the fuel filler surround, and the top of the rear panel:
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Kori/th_IMG_3903.jpg) (http://s232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Kori/?action=view¤t=IMG_3903.jpg)(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Kori/th_IMG_3902.jpg) (http://s232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Kori/?action=view¤t=IMG_3902.jpg)
Primer has been applied, and door frames, wind shield/rear screen frames painted with LY3D.
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Kori/th_IMG_3904.jpg) (http://s232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Kori/?action=view¤t=IMG_3904.jpg)(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Kori/th_IMG_3905.jpg) (http://s232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Kori/?action=view¤t=IMG_3905.jpg)(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Kori/th_IMG_3906.jpg) (http://s232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Kori/?action=view¤t=IMG_3906.jpg)
I believe I'll be able to post up some pictures of the complete new paint job in a couple of days. Meanwhile, happy smoking to all!
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lookin good! i've always wanted to tear down a mk2 and re-do it completely like that. but my dream is to powder coat the entire shell and laugh in the face of salt and rust mouhuhhuhahahahha!!! :lol:
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Janne´s sylinderhead with ceramic coat
http://i434.photobucket.com/albums/qq68/Aki-76/asiakas%20osia%20ja%20muuta/13042009352.jpg
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Is it OK to cover the precombustion chamber like that with the ceramic coating?
Did you ceramic coat the exhaust ports as well?
Are the valves oem or did you use over size intake and exhaust valves?
Are the valves "back cut / under cut" to help improve flow?
Can you tell us about the AAZ-camshaft with 'R-koneistus' reground profile. Do you have the lift and duration specifications? How will this cam affect lower rpm daily driving torque levels?
Have you ever had any of your heads flow tested after the porting is complete? If so, what do the numbers look like?
Do you know what the compression ratio on this engine will be when everything is all done? Because it is a daily driver I am guessing that you will have had to keep it higher than a race engine setup.
For the turbo selection process, do you know what this engine will move for airflow? I have seen numbers for a stock 1.6td and for stock 1.9td, but never flow numbers for a performance 1.6/1.9 engine. It has always been some what of a guessing game. I am sure the ported intake tract and the better intake manifold will increase the number, as well as the work you have done around the combustion chambers.
That's a lot of questions for now :lol:
I look forward to reading your answers.
Jim
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1. Is it OK to cover the precombustion chamber like that
with the ceramic coating?
2. Did you ceramic coat the exhaust ports as well?
3 & 4.Are the valves oem or did you use over size intake and exhaust valves? Are the valves "back cut / under cut" to help improve flow?
5. Can you tell us about the AAZ-camshaft with 'R-koneistus' reground
profile. Do you have the lift and duration specifications?
How will this cam affect lower rpm daily driving torque levels?
6. Have you ever had any of your heads flow tested after the porting is
complete? If so, what do the numbers look like?
7. Do you know what the compression ratio on this engine will be when
everything is all done? Because it is a daily driver I am guessing that you will have had to keep it higher than a race engine setup.
8. For the turbo selection process, do you know what this engine will move
for airflow? I have seen numbers for a stock 1.6td and for stock 1.9td, but never flow numbers for a performance 1.6/1.9 engine. It has always been some what of a guessing game. I am sure the ported intake tract and the better intake manifold will increase the number, as well as the work you have done around the combustion chambers.
That's a lot of questions for now :lol:
I look forward to reading your answers.
Jim
Yes, that IS a lot of questions! :lol:
No problem though, I love to reply all the questions you guys might have!
1.
Yes. The combustion chamber can't have un-coated hot spots, besides
the ceramic coating adds a slight layer of matter onto the chamber head, so with one spot not coated, it could cause a sealing problem.
2.
Aki is going to do that, but it's still to do. He's a pretty busy guy now that we all want out diesel monsters ready for the summer :)
3. and 4.
Valves are OEM AAZ size, but they are 3-way cut/polished. It's a VW 8V specific angle job which apparently has a big effect on total air flow.
And the AAZ inlet valves are slightly bigger than 1.6 ones to begin with.
5.
It's 260 degrees duration and the valve lift is 9,45 mm.
The inlet valve opens at 202 degrees after TDC.
Does anyone have the stock spec?
The cam should enable much more flow on the higher rpm range, but the side effect of less low-down torque is actually a wanted one in my case.
The Jetta doesn't weigh much so low-down torque isn't all that important, but this does improve engine durability. So that's what we wanted, really.
Will see how the cam acts in practice in a few weeks' time!
6.
Not to my knowledge. But Aki is contemplating on getting a flow bench, and then we would really see what makes what in head tuning.
7.
C.R. will be slightly less than typically with a 1.6/1.9 combination.
If someone knows, please tell me what the C.R. would normally be on an AAZ-headed 1.6 - I have forgotten the numbers.
My head has had some material ground off when the chamber was reshaped, the valves sit deeper, and also my .5 mm oversize pistons will have a small effect.
We didn't measure the actual C.R. because we knew that similar engines have worked OK, and have not had serious cold-starting problems.
8.
I'll ask Aki what estimates he's been using for CFM when doing the inlet and head work. As for the turbo selection, we didn't look as much at port sizes and ARs, we used experience in determining which turbo we wanted. An S1BG with 39/46 wheels has performed well on a 1.6, and had exactly the right boost behaviour. The little Schwitzer is very tough (rated at 30+ PSI continuous) and moves a great deal of air considering its size, and has a smooth boost curve to help eliminate unnecessery engine stress.
Now the turbo is getting a 42 mm inducer wheel to better match the high-flowing inlet and cylinder head. It should have about 220-230 hp capacity on my engine once it's done. When I do the Evo2 build with stronger rods, I may move onto a bigger turbo, or put a bigger turbine on the Schwitzer.
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All seems good stuff, I'd love to go crazy on the two 1y's i can get my hands on for free, lol!
I've had the 1Y manifold modded to fit the T25 for my M-TDI build, cheers for inspiring me!
Ry
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just spent 2 hours reading this build very very cool i have a mk1 caddy diesel and have just gone and brought a 1.6 gtd engine getting it on sunday
keep up the good work will follow this build
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Thanks guys :)
As it happens, the car's back from the paint shop.
The finish turned out OK. Not great, not bad. I think it'll be quite nice with all the body trim fitted. Pictures will follow when I get a change to snap some proper ones.
There's still a lot to do, and the car may not be ready before June.
I'm trying to make it all happen, but I'm not going to cut corners just to save time - I'm a firm believer in 'do it right the first time'.
I just hope that's really what I've been doing so far...
Here's a couple of pictures from the latest progress:
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Tekniikka/th_12042009338.jpg) (http://s232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Tekniikka/?action=view¤t=12042009338.jpg)
The head looked like this straight from sand blasting.
..and after ceramic coating was applied:
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Tekniikka/th_13042009353.jpg) (http://s232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Tekniikka/?action=view¤t=13042009353.jpg)(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Tekniikka/th_13042009352.jpg) (http://s232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Tekniikka/?action=view¤t=13042009352.jpg)
The close-up shows how the stuff covers the whole combustion chamber.
The pre-cups weren't coated from the inside, but Aki did that too on his twin turbo engine. Interesting test results will surely follow!
Here's a stock intermediate shaft, and my new billet steel one that Aki custom made for me. Props for the good work again, Aki!
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Tekniikka/th_25032009327.jpg) (http://s232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Tekniikka/?action=view¤t=25032009327.jpg)
You know, the IM shafts tend to snap on many occasion. This steel shaft is supposed to be some 800% stronger that the stock shaft! One less thing to worry about I guess!
BTW, as we've always wondered where to get decent, good quality con-rods for the IDI engine - Pauter makes them! At least for the 1.6 engine. And the 1.9 TDI too! Do TDI rods fit on an AAZ?
Pauter's a name you can actually trust, so less than $800 for a set of chrome-moly H-profile rods sounds pretty good (at least for a European buyer). I think I'll get me a set for the Evo 2 build :twisted:
Here's a link:
http://www.importperformanceparts.net/imports/vw-rods.html
Now back to the garage for more work...
Tomorrow I'm going to meet Aki again and we're gonna put the block and head together - pictures will be here in a matter of days.
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that IM shaft is AWESOME! 8)
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How could you break an IM shaft? All it does is turn the oil pump? :?
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I think its really a balance thing, lots of the IM shafts still have the cam originally used for the carb gasser fuel pump.
if spun fast enough the cast shaft could break from vibration(also the reason the bearings go out so badly sometimes)
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I think its really a balance thing, lots of the IM shafts still have the cam originally used for the carb gasser fuel pump.
if spun fast enough the cast shaft could break from vibration(also the reason the bearings go out so badly sometimes)
x2 when you take the stock IM and turn it down it gets pretty thin...with his IM shaft it can stay balanced and still be small and strong..pretty nice IMHO.
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Here is the before and after of my IM Shaft. It is still .700" dia.
You would need some HUGE, MASSIVE power to twist / snap a .70 thou. dia shaft that is not under direct load. When you say people have broken them, do you mean complete fracture of the shaft? :shock:
(http://i239.photobucket.com/albums/ff120/subsonic44/DSCN0366.jpg)
(http://i239.photobucket.com/albums/ff120/subsonic44/DSCN0395.jpg)
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i know 3 differend engine which snap shaft.if you drop shaft floor it´s probably snap.castiron is so weak.
try this : put shaft screw clamp and twist it,same time hit hammer midle,hit very soft ! and you get two piece.That hit is same what feedpump reduce and twist is what oilpump reduce...
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The broken shafts have indeed snap into two pieces (!)
Some of these engines have been tuned, some have not.
It may also have something to do with driven miles, most IDI VWs in Finland have LOTS of miles under their belt.
About the lightened shaft - I guess it might actually improve the crack resistance when the surface is basically polished... Anyway, out aim on my engine has been to eradicate all known weak spots so the engine won't explode due to any other reason than excessive boost and fueling :twisted:
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She's back home, finally with a new coat of paint!
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Kori/th_IMG_3944.jpg) (http://s232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Kori/?action=view¤t=IMG_3944.jpg)
The pictures are pretty bad quality, but that's all i could get right now..
The garage is so small and my camera doesn't work with artificial light, but at least you can see that the car didn't turn blue :)
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Kori/th_IMG_3936.jpg) (http://s232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Kori/?action=view¤t=IMG_3936.jpg)(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Kori/th_IMG_3943.jpg) (http://s232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Kori/?action=view¤t=IMG_3943.jpg)
I met up with Aki, and we worked on the engine again
(patience, pictures will follow once it's all in one piece!)
Anyway, Aki sand-blasted my inlet manifold:
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Tekniikka/th_IMG_3942.jpg) (http://s232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Tekniikka/?action=view¤t=IMG_3942.jpg)
I'll probably polish the plenum part, and paint the runners silver.
I'll see how that turns out in a while..
Since everything that goes under the hood needs to look new or better, the transmission needed some attention too.
From this
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Tekniikka/th_IMG_3921.jpg) (http://s232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Tekniikka/?action=view¤t=IMG_3921.jpg)(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Tekniikka/th_IMG_3919.jpg) (http://s232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Tekniikka/?action=view¤t=IMG_3919.jpg)
...through this...
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Tekniikka/th_IMG_3931.jpg) (http://s232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Tekniikka/?action=view¤t=IMG_3931.jpg)
...to this
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Tekniikka/th_IMG_3938.jpg) (http://s232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Tekniikka/?action=view¤t=IMG_3938.jpg)
Now nearly all under-hood parts are ready to be fitted, I only have to fab up the downpipe and boost pipes and then it's basically ready for final installation. Soon the engine will be ready and meanwhile I'll be working with the floor pan, interior panels, sound proofing and wires, not to mention the rear axle and brakes. Hopefully I can get it done before summer...
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Dear TurboJ,
anything new in process?
Best Regards
Clemens
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Thanks for asking, I'm working on it almost daily, but there's so little time...
I haven't been able to upload my pictures recently because my home PC went bang, and I haven't been able to get a new one just yet.
Next weekend is again going to be busy, and hopefully I can also post some pictures of the progress.
This topic is definetely not dead, it's just been quiet for a while...
...which is nothing like the Jetta will be once I fire it up :)
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Been busy with every possible other aspect of life besides diesel VWs recently, but I can report that the engine is finally done! Now the pump is under modification, and hopefully soon I'll be able to fit the engine back onto the Jetta.
I noticed an interesting thing when I took apart the fuel tank of the Jetta.
The feed line for the fuel pump only has 4 mm inner diameter. That sounds really, really thin.
Can it possibly flow enough for 200+ horsepower?
If any of you have met problems with insufficent fuel flow due to too thin feed pipes, please let me know...
...and most importantly how you have fixed the problem. The plastic cylindrical 'thing' that goes into the fuel tank doesn't really allow for easy modification due to its complex design. At least in the case of '91 ecoTD that my car was when this tank / ancillaries were fitted at Wolfsburg.
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Dear TurboJ,
this sound really thin, my 1984 Golf Mk2 TD (72 HP) has had a 6mm or 7mm tube as stock.
Unfortunately i do not have a easy fix for you, but if you just change the long part, from the tank to the pump, this should be enough.
Best Regards
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Dear TurboJ,
this sound really thin, my 1984 Golf Mk2 TD (72 HP) has had a 6mm or 7mm tube as stock.
Unfortunately i do not have a easy fix for you, but if you just change the long part, from the tank to the pump, this should be enough.
Best Regards
Hmm.. Do you mean inner or outer diameter 6 mm?
As it happens, my Eco-TD fuel tank has a 6 mm fuel feed pipe, but that only leaves the aforementioned 4 mm inside diameter.
BTW, does anyone know if a Jetta III / Vento fuel tank would fit on a mk2 Jetta?
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i know a mk3 golf tank fits, look the P/n's up!
Any other updates?
Ry
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Thanks mate!
I'll see if I can use a tank off my friend's Vento...
As for updates - yes I have been working on the car and progress is nice, but still no pictures as I still don't have a new computer.
I will update this topic once and for all when I get all my pictures on one hard drive.
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i am still very excited even tho its been going on for a long time...
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Hello TurboJ,
i hope everthing is going on, like you wand. Something new in scandinavian?
Best Regards
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TurboJ You are unsing an 1.9 aaz pump or 1.6 pump??
I´m very Impressed with your project! it´s an inspiration!.
Best Regards
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OK...
Finally back on here!
It's been a really challenging time for me, the past couple of months, but things are moving on, and hopefully I will soon have something new to report!
Everybody: If there have been particularly interesting developments since august, I'd be more than happy to hear about them :)
Tiago, it's not a VW pump at all ;) I may post some more specific info when the pump is ready.
As for now, I need just a couple more parts, then it's assembly time!
I'm going to be extra busy during the christmas holidays...
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iveco turbo daily pump?
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Yep, that's the base pump ( how did you know? )
But it's undergoing some extensive modifications to suit the VW engine and to combine high flow with acceptable idle and low-speed response.
Last weekend we finally settled on the turbo system for my engine.
During the past couple of months, several different turbos and exhaust manifolds have been tried on highly tuned AAZs around here, and
there is more experience accumulating as I speak. It seems that when you go well past the 200 hp mark, and do the associated improvements
to your pump, head and camshaft, the engines become quite picky with their turbos. It's quite difficult to build a turbo that has enough flow
on both sides, enough pressure potential, strong enough internals and acceptable spool-up, on a high-performance AAZ.
But once you have worked your cylinder head so that is really flows, and have a suitably hot cam, a well-optimized pump, and a correctly built
exhaust manifold, you can run stupidly large turbos with little trouble. With those big Holsets and Schwitzers off industrial engines etc, you have
potential for safe 2.5 bar boost all day, and yet they spool up nice if you have the right work done on your engine.
As for the right work and correct parts, good old Aki has fabricated me a really nice stainless steel tubular exhaust manifold that will allow a
Schwitzer S2B to fit the tight spot between the inlet mani and the firewall. We'll be looking at 45-47 mm compressor inlet and 54-57 mm turbine
outlet sizes. The bigger Schwitzer also comes without an integral wastegate, so there's a good reason to fit a more reliable and efficient external
wastegate. Now I'm really looking for H-profile rods too...
I'll post up some pictures of the new development as I get something done in a couple of days!
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Dear TurboJ,
i was thinking, that you an AKI has stopted to work with our stupid old diesel engines, because i have not seen something during the sommer, so welcome back in the www. Honestly, i am glad to see me wrong, becuase this is one of my all time favorite builts and i like your way to handle this engines.
What you say regarding the switzer S2B is very interessting, i had follow the same idea (without testing something) for a long while, in regard to my one build. Up to now, i have a S2B turbo (with your specs) and a additionally a Nissan ballbearing turbo (ebay offer, were i cant say no) and did not know, which one is the best to use. So please speed up your work and give me hint.
Best Regards Alleslowbuged,
who just get his ported and polished cylinderhead back.
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I'll try to work as quickly as possible :)
We haven't been active on forums since summer for a number of reasons, but I believe I will have a good deal of progress to report, at least after the christmas holidays! There are also two twin-charged engines being built at Aki's workshop as I speak, and one of them should possibly be ready for the summer, so expect to see some crazy diesels in the following months!
Good luck with your project too!
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I'm lookin forward to updates also, been followin this build from the beginning just haven't anything constructive to add. At some point I'd like to have the math you guys use to design the dual plenum intakes if it's not too much trouble. I assume it's different for the 1.9 than your 1.6 because of the amount of air each engine flows regardless of whether they use the same(aaz) head. Is this true?
Thanks,
Aaron
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it was a guess that iveco pump.
in portugal it was tried on a Mtdi and worked good so on a power build i knew that was an option...
many greetings to you and good luck with the build. :D
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On Monday I will be working on the car, and there will be updates afterwards!
Things are going pretty well as far as the engine is concerned too, I really think I can get the car running before summer!
Although I probably shouldn't say that aloud, what with mr. Murphy and all...
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Awesome build! I just finished reading through all 19 pages of it and can't wait for more!
One question though, did you ever end up tracking down a CAD file for that main bearing girdle? It would be awesome if we could get some of those made over here!
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One question though, did you ever end up tracking down a CAD file for that main bearing girdle? It would be awesome if we could get some of those made over here!
PM truckinwagen (aka owen) He organized a group buy of main bearing girdles. He might have one left...
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That's a good bet.
As for me, I don't have any CAD files, but I can source a girdle if someone really, really needs one.
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I've been very busy with moving and building my new workspace etc. but things are starting to look brighter for my own and others projects.
Coming up some hardcore stuff for diesel engines!!
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OK, folks, here's some of the long awaited update material!
I just can't believe how much work the Jetta's bodywork has required, and even now there is still a little work to be done, but this time I believe the bodywork should be pretty much OK in two weeks time...
The techical stuff hasn't really progressed all that much, since I have to get the bodywork done in order to make some room in the garage, so I can work on the engine etc. There has been a lot of thinking going on with the engine and all things realted, though, and I have slowly been colleting all the missing parts for my build, of which, sadly, there are still many.
As the Tornado Rot diesel monster is slowly, but surely, progressing, I have been driving around in this new aquintance:
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/th_IMG_4022.jpg) (http://s232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/?action=view¤t=IMG_4022.jpg)
It's a '88 Jetta GT, which means (for a Finnish-sold car) a GU engine (90-hp 1.8 carburettor engine), GTI brakes and suspension, and special interior trim plus some accessories. I think this one will eventually turn into a megasquirted 8V turbo. That is, if the diesel Jetta is ever finished!
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Since it happened that there was a lot of bodywork fixing to do even after the outside of the car had been painted, I had to redo the interior paintwork eventually.
There were many small holes to weld up in the bottom of the floor pan, and some in the rear floor have yet to be done...
Anyway, as there had to be some welding work done, I decided that most of the floor pan seams should be spot-welded too, as on a car with 470k km on the clock surely has the bodywork gone a little soft. Hence, I had to repaint the inner floors, since the weldings obviously torched the paintwork.
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Kori/th_IMG_4066.jpg) (http://s232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Kori/?action=view¤t=IMG_4066.jpg)(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Kori/th_IMG_4042.jpg) (http://s232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Kori/?action=view¤t=IMG_4042.jpg)(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Kori/th_IMG_4043.jpg) (http://s232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Kori/?action=view¤t=IMG_4043.jpg)
The driver's side front floor even had to be cleaned up for the first time, since I had not the sense to remove all of the wiring and stuff prior to the painting of the outside panels... Well, next time I know to strip a car 100% completely before any hint of painting work!
Here's a small example of the rust damage of the lower floor:
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Kori/th_IMG_3974.jpg) (http://s232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Kori/?action=view¤t=IMG_3974.jpg)
The front jacking points both looked like this!
...and repaired:
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Kori/th_IMG_3978.jpg) (http://s232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Kori/?action=view¤t=IMG_3978.jpg)
Then after a huge amount of cleaning, sanding and grinding, finally some primer:
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Kori/th_IMG_4080.jpg) (http://s232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Kori/?action=view¤t=IMG_4080.jpg)(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Kori/th_IMG_4080.jpg) (http://s232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Kori/?action=view¤t=IMG_4080.jpg)(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Kori/th_IMG_4089.jpg) (http://s232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Kori/?action=view¤t=IMG_4089.jpg)
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Kori/th_IMG_4090.jpg) (http://s232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Kori/?action=view¤t=IMG_4090.jpg)(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Kori/th_IMG_4091.jpg) (http://s232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Kori/?action=view¤t=IMG_4091.jpg)
In case you're wondering, painting the interior panels of a car after having the exterior painted and laquered, well, that is obviously a VERY stupid thing to do! Why it ever came to happen, is that when the car had been repainted the last time, the previous (very careful and tedious >:( ) owner had put on a very thick layer of rust proofing undercoating on the floor pan, and it all looked, and felt, under inspection to be solid. Now I know I should never trust work done by previous owners, and just do it all over again no matter what the history! You know, it took almost exactly ten hours to cover up all the outer panels of the car, and all the door and window surrounds:
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Kori/th_IMG_4039.jpg) (http://s232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Kori/?action=view¤t=IMG_4039.jpg)
Sorry about the quality of pictures, but I have concentrated more on building the Jetta than taking artistic snaps :)
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Almost all metal parts that are going to be fitted onto the Jetta, have been sand-blasted and epoxy-coated,
here's one heap of 20-year old German metal:
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Kori/th_IMG_4020.jpg) (http://s232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Kori/?action=view¤t=IMG_4020.jpg)
The axle beam was just one of the many parts that I painted at least twice ::)
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Alusta/th_IMG_4060.jpg) (http://s232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Alusta/?action=view¤t=IMG_4060.jpg)(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Alusta/th_IMG_4061.jpg) (http://s232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Alusta/?action=view¤t=IMG_4061.jpg)
When I predicted there was going to be some work involved to get the axle up to the job, I wasn't wrong. It was down to just one of the stub axle attaching bolts that didn't unscrew no matter what.
I tried penetrating oil, heavy locking pliers after grinding the bolt end to shape, drilling, heating... It didn't budge.
So I took the axle to a good tig-welder, and he heated the surrounding metal up (red hot) and then tig-welded a nut to the bolt end - so the bolt came out nice and easy. Good luck I didn't have to source another rear axle just because of one seized bolt! Thread came good after all, so hopefully the wheels won't come off during cornering :D
Finished article (again a crappy pic, but anyway...)
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Alusta/th_IMG_4078.jpg) (http://s232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Alusta/?action=view¤t=IMG_4078.jpg)
...considering that it looked like this before dismantling, it turned out OK.
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Alusta/th_2009_03090036.jpg) (http://s232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Alusta/?action=view¤t=2009_03090036.jpg)
By the way, here's an example of basic tools with which to remove your rear axle bushings without power tools :)
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Alusta/th_IMG_4050.jpg) (http://s232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Alusta/?action=view¤t=IMG_4050.jpg)
Another cheapo working method:
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Kori/th_IMG_4076.jpg) (http://s232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Kori/?action=view¤t=IMG_4076.jpg)
A front engine mount made stiffer by drilling some holes on top, draining all the 'hydraulic' fluid inside, and filling the void up with silicone sealer!
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Janne,
Did you get my message??
Cheers
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Since I finally had the sense to take the fuse box and all the accompanying wires off the car, naturally I had to spread them out all over the floor...
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Tekniikka/th_IMG_4035.jpg) (http://s232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Tekniikka/?action=view¤t=IMG_4035.jpg)(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Tekniikka/th_IMG_4036.jpg) (http://s232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Tekniikka/?action=view¤t=IMG_4036.jpg)
I did manage to make a template of all the wires, so I might actually stand a change of making a working replacement.
But there is still one single wire that is un-accounted for - anybody know, or have a Bentley manual at hand, what would a single red/green wire be? It comes with the regular bundle through the firewall, and I have lost the other end of it, but it's the only red/green wire on the whole set, so maybe someone can tell me what it is? The car is '91 EcoDiesel originally, but the wires may also be '91 GTD.
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Janne,
Did you get my message??
Cheers
Yeah I did, your engine looks amazing, I'll definetely keep an eye on your project too! I'll get back to you about the SDI crank too...
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OK, on to the engine.
Some of you may remember the very strange development I had with the crankshaft of my SB engine.
(Namely that it had a 1.6 8V 85-hp gasser crankshaft!!)
So, when I still thought I could get the car running during year 2009, I was in a hurry to find a replacement crankshaft!
Luckily, I had a spare CY engine laying around. I decieded to give it a try, but the thing had definetely seen better days!
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Tekniikka/th_IMG_3982.jpg) (http://s232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Tekniikka/?action=view¤t=IMG_3982.jpg)
Surprisingly, only the head had suffered from it long time off the road; it seems moisture hadn't got to any of the bottom-end parts, so there I had my replacement!
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Tekniikka/th_IMG_3981.jpg) (http://s232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Tekniikka/?action=view¤t=IMG_3981.jpg)
The head was scrap after all the years sitting outside, but hey, it was a 1.6 head so no matter ;D
Too bad it would have been in best shape of all VW IDI heads I have ever seen, had it not been for the moisture damage. Absolutely no cracks between the valves etc...
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Tekniikka/th_IMG_3979.jpg) (http://s232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Tekniikka/?action=view¤t=IMG_3979.jpg)
It seems the CY might have been fully rebuilt shortly before being left sitting dead; the pistons for example, looked brand new.
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Tekniikka/th_IMG_3984.jpg) (http://s232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Tekniikka/?action=view¤t=IMG_3984.jpg)
Not bad for a scrap engine that cost me 20€: everything in the bottom end was in excellent shape. So I got a full set of Mahle pistons, good rods and caps, a good crank, and also a nearly unused oil pump, that now resides in my franken engine.
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Tekniikka/th_IMG_3983.jpg) (http://s232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Tekniikka/?action=view¤t=IMG_3983.jpg)
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Speaking of the engine, this is the first picture taken since I got it back home in the summer:
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Tekniikka/th_IMG_4018.jpg) (http://s232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Tekniikka/?action=view¤t=IMG_4018.jpg)
Always use original VAG parts when better alternatives (preferrably custom made by Aki Motorsport) aren't available ;D
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Tekniikka/th_IMG_4019.jpg) (http://s232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Tekniikka/?action=view¤t=IMG_4019.jpg)
True to the tradition of this particular project, I'm going to disassemble the engine once again, to replace these weight-balanced and newly re-bushed OE rods with H-profiles:
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Tekniikka/th_IMG_3992.jpg) (http://s232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Tekniikka/?action=view¤t=IMG_3992.jpg)
My motto it seems, is don't do anything just once if you can do it at least twice!
As for now, the engine is a pretty good showcase of '80s and '90s VAG parts, as well as a multitude of custom parts.
It now has an overbore SB block with a CY crankshaft, 1Y head and reground AAZ camshaft. And there is the modified 1Y inlet of course, plus AAZ belt drive, apart from the timing gear which is SB. Not to mention the Fiat pump that Aki's building for me. And add the fact that the drive train is a mix of Passat TD and 2.0 16V, Corrado G60 and Golf VR6 parts, never mind the subframe, steering and rear beam that are from (different) '89 Golf GTI 16Vs...
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So here's the famous CY crankshaft, that is the first diesel crank this engine has had since the last 15k kilometers!
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Tekniikka/th_IMG_3993.jpg) (http://s232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Tekniikka/?action=view¤t=IMG_3993.jpg)
Oil splash tray with special glue to seal the oil pan...
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Tekniikka/th_IMG_4001.jpg) (http://s232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Tekniikka/?action=view¤t=IMG_4001.jpg)
The special camshaft fitted (presumably) the last time!
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Tekniikka/th_IMG_4006.jpg) (http://s232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Tekniikka/?action=view¤t=IMG_4006.jpg)
AAZ twin-phase injectors
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Tekniikka/th_IMG_4011.jpg) (http://s232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Tekniikka/?action=view¤t=IMG_4011.jpg)
And the inlet/exhaust tracts as finished (you can see the ceramic coating on the exhaust passages):
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Tekniikka/th_IMG_4007.jpg) (http://s232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Tekniikka/?action=view¤t=IMG_4007.jpg)
...and those valve guides you can't really see, aren't standard either, hence why you can't see them :)
Take notice: Anytime you torque up a head on a VW turbodiesel engine, make sure you have a head gasket of this brand name ;)
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Tekniikka/th_IMG_3985.jpg) (http://s232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Tekniikka/?action=view¤t=IMG_3985.jpg)
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The inlet manifold after sand-blasting:
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Tekniikka/th_IMG_3942.jpg) (http://s232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Tekniikka/?action=view¤t=IMG_3942.jpg)
And this is how it looks after all the layers of paint and clearcoat:
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Tekniikka/th_IMG_3960.jpg) (http://s232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Tekniikka/?action=view¤t=IMG_3960.jpg)(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Tekniikka/th_IMG_3959.jpg) (http://s232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Tekniikka/?action=view¤t=IMG_3959.jpg)(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Tekniikka/th_IMG_3963.jpg) (http://s232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Tekniikka/?action=view¤t=IMG_3963.jpg)
I'll still have to grind off the thread pieces and their support, that you can see on the third picture, since they won't clear my new exhaust manifold.
...which looks like this:
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Tekniikka/th_IMG_4099.jpg) (http://s232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Tekniikka/?action=view¤t=IMG_4099.jpg)(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Tekniikka/th_IMG_4101.jpg) (http://s232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Tekniikka/?action=view¤t=IMG_4101.jpg)(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Tekniikka/th_IMG_4100.jpg) (http://s232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Tekniikka/?action=view¤t=IMG_4100.jpg)
Stainless steel, and again, made by Aki. But it's not yet finished - some smoothing and flange work still to be done, apart from the small job of adding a feed pipe for the external waste gate, which is also Aki's custom work. And of course, the mandatory ceramic coating ;) Sorry, no pictures of the W/G yet, but it's pretty trick, I can tell you. And I do like that fact that the W/G is going to be external; it'll be so much more accurate and reliable, not to mention easier to work on and adjust as needed. Way easier to hook up twin downpipes too!
On to the reason why a new exhaust manifold was needed.
The S1GB Schwitzer is a good turbo, but experience from other engines showed that it is still undersized for my kind of power goal. Now that I'm adding H-profile con-rods to the mix, I can reach for as much hp as I can get with driveability still preserved. I think 220 hp should do fine. Anyway, we came to the conclusion that a bigger turbo is a must.
Aki's ample supply of Schwitzer turbo parts resulted in a choice of S2B Schwitzer family as a staring point.
The turbo you see here is basically just a template, this one I'm using to measure everything up and fabricate the exhaust, oil lines, boost pipes, heat shields etc. The S2B that's going to be on my engine will be bigger than this, at least the wheels will be on both sides. About 45 mm inlet and 55 mm outlet sizes, I suspect. Of course, it may require some trial and testing to find the perfect combination on this particular engine. And I will be after a broad, nice power band rather than peak hp, so don't expect any records broken here!
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Tekniikka/th_IMG_4095.jpg) (http://s232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Tekniikka/?action=view¤t=IMG_4095.jpg)(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Tekniikka/th_IMG_4096.jpg) (http://s232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Tekniikka/?action=view¤t=IMG_4096.jpg)(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Tekniikka/th_IMG_4097.jpg) (http://s232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Tekniikka/?action=view¤t=IMG_4097.jpg)(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Tekniikka/th_IMG_4098.jpg) (http://s232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Tekniikka/?action=view¤t=IMG_4098.jpg)
And here's the first part of the downpipe, stainless steel once again:
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Tekniikka/th_IMG_4105.jpg) (http://s232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Tekniikka/?action=view¤t=IMG_4105.jpg)
The D/P and the exhaust manifold were both originally going to be on Aki's own twin-charged 1Y, but I managed to persuade him to part from them, since they really are a perfect fit for for my engine/inlet combo. My job was once again made so much easier with the outlet pipe Aki had made, because it fits exactly with this turbo and the SB rear engine support. The turbo will sit "the wrong way round" since this manifold / downpipe combo had originally been designed for a compound-turbo solution. That also means, that it'll be really easy to convert my system to compound turbo in the future, if that's what we want!
This is all for now, and if you wonder why it took such a long time since the last update, I actually lost my camera battery charger (!) when moving to my current home, and thus could not upload any pictures. Work and school have really taken their toll too, but at least the christmas and new-year holidays have lent me time to get some work done on the Jetta at last!
I really hope my predictions will be more accurate this time when I say I believe I will be able to drive this thing to Mantorp, Sweden, for this year's Bug Run - that's June, so I'll have to be quick about the build!
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cool work, nice to finally see whats going on again. the amount of work you've put into this car is insane, i don't think i could ever drive a car i put that much work in to haha.
From what you have seen on other engines, has the hy35w holset been a good turbo? or is it much too big?
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Yeah, It's been a lot of work, and there's still a lot to do...
The HY35 are fine if you have a well prepared head, the right camshaft, intake, exhaust and pump, but on mostly stock engines they tend to be too big. A friend of mine had one, and it didn't work on his AAZ; now it would be the perfect turbo for the engine after it's been thoroughly overworked, and all the above mods done to it.
Next summer we'll have a lot of new experience on different turbos - we should have at least three IDI engines ready for testing, all with a different turbo setup.
I'll head back to the garage now to finish up seam-sealing of the Jetta's underbody! Fun stuff!
Already my nostrils are LY3D-colured and I'm coughing up kerosene fumes etc ;D
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With your new connecting rods, have you thought about now going the VNT route? The rods should have eliminated the last weak link in your setup. What about something on the lines of a gt2056v? That should not be very restrictive and it should offer some very good flow even at higher rpm.
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No VNTs, at least this time round.
The S2B should be a good basis, there are many housing/wheel combos that can be fitted, and even Holset turbibe housings can be used. Maybe a VNT would be nice for Evo2 build, but more likely I'll do a single turbo again, or maybe a compound. I like to keep things as simple as ever possible, that's like a credo of mine... Hence a 'good old Schwitzer with no waste gate. It'll be fine when we get the right housings/wheels combo going. Will see about that in the summer!
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Time for a little update again.
It's mostly just bodywork progress once again, but that's always what takes most time and effort on old cars like this...
The body after finishing the interior re-painting process...
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Kori/th_IMG_4121.jpg) (http://s232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Kori/?action=view¤t=IMG_4121.jpg)
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Kori/th_IMG_4122.jpg) (http://s232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Kori/?action=view¤t=IMG_4122.jpg)
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Kori/th_IMG_4125.jpg) (http://s232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Kori/?action=view¤t=IMG_4125.jpg)
Spraying the clearcoat finish on the interior panels resulted in a layer of clearcoat dust everywhere.
It's fun how you have to thoroughly clean the interior before AND after the paint job.
I also got the bottom of the floor ready for first layer of primer:
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Kori/th_IMG_4108.jpg) (http://s232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Kori/?action=view¤t=IMG_4108.jpg)
...it's pig ugly that's for sure, but my aim was to make the bottom last as well as possible - there's either
well-preserved factory rust proofing, acid primer or pure acid-treated steel everywhere. All the seams have also been re-sealed with silicone glue. That's why it looks funny like that. Tomorrow some primer on there, so it'll look less disturbing.
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And once I got the interior surface looking like this...
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Sisusta/th_IMG_4133.jpg) (http://s232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Sisusta/?action=view¤t=IMG_4133.jpg)
...it was time to beging laying some sound deadening sheets on there:
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Sisusta/th_IMG_4135.jpg) (http://s232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Sisusta/?action=view¤t=IMG_4135.jpg)
Vibroplast is basically some butyl sheets with aluminum covering; it attaches like glue to all clean surfaces, and as the butyl does not dry up at all, the adhesion is pretty permanent. In this case VP is better than bitumen, as it doesn't get brittle and hard over time. It should also take heat and cold well, and be able to keep water from penetrating. It's supposed to be light for the amount of sound deadening it offers, so that should work well with this build.
And no, I'm not going to fit some monster stereo equipment, I just want to be able to drive longer distances without ear plugs :)
And so the work begun:
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Sisusta/th_IMG_4137.jpg) (http://s232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Sisusta/?action=view¤t=IMG_4137.jpg)
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Sisusta/th_IMG_4144.jpg) (http://s232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Sisusta/?action=view¤t=IMG_4144.jpg)
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Sisusta/th_IMG_4148.jpg) (http://s232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Sisusta/?action=view¤t=IMG_4148.jpg)
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Sisusta/th_IMG_4157.jpg) (http://s232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Sisusta/?action=view¤t=IMG_4157.jpg)
And finally, after quite a long time laying those sheets around (with a lot of measuring and cutting), the floor part of the interior was done.
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Sisusta/th_IMG_4196.jpg) (http://s232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Sisusta/?action=view¤t=IMG_4196.jpg)
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Sisusta/th_IMG_4199.jpg) (http://s232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Sisusta/?action=view¤t=IMG_4199.jpg)
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Sisusta/th_IMG_4208.jpg) (http://s232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Sisusta/?action=view¤t=IMG_4208.jpg)
I sealed most of the gaps between the sheets with aluminum tape, my aim was to make the 'new surface' as water-resistant as possible. Hopefully rust will keep at bay with all the effort that's been put to this.
I'm hoping I can get away with only the Vibroplast coating, and not need any extra sound deadening; time will tell of course. If I can avoid factory-style bitumen/rubber/wool kind of stuff, I'll save quite a bit of weight, and also get to keep away from materials that store moisture. Let's see if it works or not!
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Then something for the suspension/brakes department;
With my original G60 front calipers there was a little error by me when I took them out for sand basting, and the result
was the slide "holes" of the caliper carriers got some blasting, and the surfaces turned out so rough I didn't want to risk using them. And as luck would have it, the caliper carriers can't be had for any reasonable price anywhere.
So I turned once again to ebay.de and found a set of Corrado Vr6 front calipers for a good price:
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Alusta/th_IMG_4188.jpg) (http://s232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Alusta/?action=view¤t=IMG_4188.jpg)
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Alusta/th_IMG_4190.jpg) (http://s232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Alusta/?action=view¤t=IMG_4190.jpg)
These are Lucas, as the others were Girling - do you guys know if there are any differences?
Now I should have two sets of good calipers (that both need some sand, paint and new gaskets etc), and one set of good caliper carriers. Do you know if the Lucas carriers fit the Girling calipers?
And furthermore, has anyone seen these 54-mm brake pistons sold separately, or slide bolts for any rational price somewhere?
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This is the first time this winter that I feel things are really going forward. Now there's only the bottom of the floor to finish, and after that I can slowly begin to put the car back together. It's sure been a heck of a long time coming! ::)
And yes, there's still the small question of wires to consider...
I wasn't very smart about the wiring when I started this project, and only a short while ago did I strip the body completely of wires. I currently have three full sets of Golf/Jetta wiring looms scattered around the attic, and once again I have been surprised just how long it can take to figure out and label all the wires, even on a car as simple as a diesel Jetta.
And as I have three looms to work with, I stripped the 'GTD' fuse box of all its wires:
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Tekniikka/th_IMG_4170.jpg) (http://s232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Tekniikka/?action=view¤t=IMG_4170.jpg)
I wanted to get rid of the mystic extra wires it came with, including a special control unit for both the glow plug circuit, and the electric coolant pump for the OE turbocharger. Plan is I'll use a normal 1.6 TD fusebox assembly, and plug in the best ones of each wires I have on the different looms. And scrap all unnecessery ones in the process.
The GTD fuse box looks like this:
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Tekniikka/th_IMG_4176.jpg) (http://s232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Tekniikka/?action=view¤t=IMG_4176.jpg)
It came like that from the factory, the relays 38 and 46 are for the coolant pump and the glow plug controller respectively. Those I want to throw to the bin, as they are both annoyingly connected to pretty much everything on the fuse box!
So these won't be going back on the car.
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Tekniikka/th_IMG_4182.jpg) (http://s232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Tekniikka/?action=view¤t=IMG_4182.jpg)
I drew a schematic of the GTD fuse box connectors, as this version with water-cooled turbo isn't covered by the Bentley manual's wiring diagrams.
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Tekniikka/th_IMG_4184.jpg) (http://s232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Tekniikka/?action=view¤t=IMG_4184.jpg)
Plan is to build a new setup using partly this schematic, partly the basic Jetta TD setup, and partly Bentley's diagram to come up with a new, simplified electric system. I know, it sounds challenging, but at least I have professional help to rely on, courtesy of a good friend who happens to be an electronics engineer. There'll be some "minor" work involved, because I plan to also incorporate headlight relays, battery relocation, glow plug relay -and fuse upgrade, stereo wiring and alarm system electrics to the same "master" bundle - goal is to make it look like it was factory made. That's me being obsessive once again.
Here's the difference between a base '90 1.6 TD (left) and the 80-hp SB set (right), although the extra relays were already removed in this picture. There's still an awful lot of wires to grapple with when it's all in one big messy heap, even if it is a '91 VW. To date I have completely dismantled two of the three full wiring looms I have, and it's looking pretty good, as far as franken-wires are concerned. Too bad next week is all school and no fun...
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Tekniikka/th_IMG_4187.jpg) (http://s232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Tekniikka/?action=view¤t=IMG_4187.jpg)
That's it for today, I think the next update may be slightly more interesting - at least I hope it will! Till then, keep boosting those IDIs!
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Do you still have the electric turbo coolant pump? I'd like to see a pic of it and how it connects to the coolant system or is it separate? I have a big vnt with coolant ports that I would like to liquid cool at some point.
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Do you still have the electric turbo coolant pump? I'd like to see a pic of it and how it connects to the coolant system or is it separate? I have a big vnt with coolant ports that I would like to liquid cool at some point.
No, sold it on along with the OE turbo. I may have some pictures on another computer. I'll check it out when I get a chance.
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is vibroplast readely available in you country? non existant in france as is alternative sound deadening mats and dynamat is extremely expensive
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Yeah, it's available - not as cheap as I would like, but available yes. I'm going to need some more of that stuff too, I still have to cover the firewall and the rear fender corners. Vibroplast seems a good choice, I'll just have to wait and see if I can get away with no other means of sound insulation. There will be some underbody stone chip spray going on the bottom side though, that should help some too.
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Any pics of that exhaust manifold? Or have you been hiding from the weather just like me? How is it comming. I would love to see or hear something.
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Wonderful build.
I have a few tidbits Id like to insert though.
I personally am very unimpressed by the 02A transmission. The weak part of them is the 2nd gear synchro. Its a silly 3 piece, tinfoil thing. Its way over complicated (on a VW...really?) and very weak. The 02As also suffer from the biggest drawback of the 020s..SMS. If you have yours apart..or if you dont Id do it anyway...Id replace those horrible rivets with a bolt kit. If you have your buddy make them whip up a batch of 200 (20 transmissions worth) and unload them...people will buy them. The other draw backs to an 02A are sourcing one (you already have) and the hydro clutch. Personally I like a cable. They are easier to rebuild then 020.
If I remember the main reason rods fail in these motors is the center cylinders get more air then the outside cylinders..so the inners are stressed unevenly from the outside rods. Your modified manifold should solve this.
Truckinwagon should have at least one spare girdle. I never paid for mine. Divorce tends to take priority over the VWs. Too bad..because my VW never ran off with another driver..thats loyalty.
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020s are cheap and plentiful thats why i have yet to be worried about swapping to an 02a or 02j
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Any pics of that exhaust manifold? Or have you been hiding from the weather just like me? How is it comming. I would love to see or hear something.
Hmmm.. No pics right now, it'll have to be finished first ( the flange needs some more work and the W/G pipe needs to be fabricated and welded on). I'm not sure when that'll happen as I'm very busy with my studies and my daily driver Jetta right now.
I have't been very active in updating laltely, but there's nothing real to update just yet. The gas Jetta needs a new engine as I decided to quit playing with the carburettor altogether when the carb decided to stop playing with me :)
So I'm swapping in a CIS-fuelled 1.8i, GTI spec. Also my previous daily, a '88 Audi 80 Quattro has kept me busy as I'm preparing it for sales puproses. The red diesel monster is well and my H-profile rods have arrived too, I expect to go over the engine just one more time to fit them right after I get the CIS swap done and the Audi sold.
Nice to see people are still interested after all this time! Oh how good it would be if I didn't have to work with all that other boring stuff and just be able to focus on the TD!
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Wonderful build.
I have a few tidbits Id like to insert though.
I personally am very unimpressed by the 02A transmission. The weak part of them is the 2nd gear synchro. Its a silly 3 piece, tinfoil thing. Its way over complicated (on a VW...really?) and very weak. The 02As also suffer from the biggest drawback of the 020s..SMS. If you have yours apart..or if you dont Id do it anyway...Id replace those horrible rivets with a bolt kit. If you have your buddy make them whip up a batch of 200 (20 transmissions worth) and unload them...people will buy them. The other draw backs to an 02A are sourcing one (you already have) and the hydro clutch. Personally I like a cable. They are easier to rebuild then 020.
If I remember the main reason rods fail in these motors is the center cylinders get more air then the outside cylinders..so the inners are stressed unevenly from the outside rods. Your modified manifold should solve this.
Truckinwagon should have at least one spare girdle. I never paid for mine. Divorce tends to take priority over the VWs. Too bad..because my VW never ran off with another driver..thats loyalty.
Divorce... Yes, what I perfect scheme for delaying turbo projects! :D I just put in the final paperwork earlier today, and I can say I'm very relieved! Now, if only my other lovers (the silver one and the white one) would cooperate!
About the 02A:s, sure, they have their problems too, but they are much harder wearing than the 020s anyway.
Luckily it's very easy to find 02As around here. If I had the money, I would definetely swap in a 6-speed out of a Mk5 PD. For now the 02A will do, and if it won't hold together, I'll upgrade the next one, or think about another transmission type.
Locally we haven't had many problems with the 02As not holding on, but that could change when the next generation of Finnish TDs hit the streets during the next few months ::)
...speaking of which, there are some very interesting developments going on in Aki's new workshop... 14 mm plunger ends are the least radical modifications there.
Kudagra, you seem to know your VWs - we have noticed the exact same thing around here about the rods and bearings.
There is a new evolution of the twin-plenum intake too, my friend is working hard to optimize the design so that the flow would be exactly even (it's not an easy task). The latest evolution has two opposite inlets and too helper-plenums to go with that, along with trumpet-shaped inlet extensions in the main plenum.
I hope my "cheapo" H-profiles will at least be stronger than stock rods, anyway, as our calculations mostly suggest even the stock rods would have just cut it. Hopefully with these rods the engine will be fine in the 'detuned' 200-hp tune; with the tube header/turbo/wastegate combo that's going to be on this engine, max power could probably be 25-30 hp more.
Safe 200 hp? There's hoping.
I also hope I'll be able to work on the 'monster' more during this spring. Weather is one thing too - the garage isn't too big so being able to open the doors and do some of the work outside will make things easier.
Now if I only could resist the temptation to spend too much time on the daily....
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Hi,
nice to hear, that you still working on your diesel driver, and yes i am still interessted in your project and i am nearly the same exicted than last year in april to read the results from your engine work.
Best regards
Alleslowbuged
P.S. And i also know how other cars could slow down "main" project.
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http://i434.photobucket.com/albums/qq68/Aki-76/moottorin%20osia/29032010808.jpg (http://i434.photobucket.com/albums/qq68/Aki-76/moottorin%20osia/29032010808.jpg)
headflow datasheet
http://i434.photobucket.com/albums/qq68/Aki-76/asiakas%20osia%20ja%20muuta/tsivirtauslappu.jpg (http://i434.photobucket.com/albums/qq68/Aki-76/asiakas%20osia%20ja%20muuta/tsivirtauslappu.jpg)
orginal and my new twin turbo head,u see difrend ;)
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you are my inspiration, I can only hope to achieve half of what you will. :o I may have to move to Finland to finish my work on the engine. 8)
Kevin
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Last, it´s ready to install
http://i434.photobucket.com/albums/qq68/Aki-76/kayttiksen%20osia/DSCN0794.jpg (http://i434.photobucket.com/albums/qq68/Aki-76/kayttiksen%20osia/DSCN0794.jpg)
http://i434.photobucket.com/albums/qq68/Aki-76/kayttiksen%20osia/DSCN0800.jpg (http://i434.photobucket.com/albums/qq68/Aki-76/kayttiksen%20osia/DSCN0800.jpg)
small details
http://i434.photobucket.com/albums/qq68/Aki-76/kayttiksen%20osia/DSCN0813.jpg (http://i434.photobucket.com/albums/qq68/Aki-76/kayttiksen%20osia/DSCN0813.jpg)
dyno sheet come later,but i hope broke 200kw and 450nm.It´s possible this engine ;D
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Wow. Has any done this before on a VW diesel?
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Holy belts batman. There is a ton of them. Looks awesome though. What do you think it will do and how long?
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looks pretty close to what I plan on building...
may I ask what style of crank nose that motor is using?
also, what kind of turbo is strapped back there?
looks good!
-Owen
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Good God that engine is amazing. This will be a beast!
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looks pretty close to what I plan on building...
may I ask what style of crank nose that motor is using?
also, what kind of turbo is strapped back there?
looks good!
-Owen
Turbo is holset he 221 w , small and very powerfull
cranknose is my own desing
http://i434.photobucket.com/albums/qq68/Aki-76/asiakas%20osia%20ja%20muuta/08042010819.jpg (http://i434.photobucket.com/albums/qq68/Aki-76/asiakas%20osia%20ja%20muuta/08042010819.jpg)
http://i434.photobucket.com/albums/qq68/Aki-76/asiakas%20osia%20ja%20muuta/08042010818.jpg (http://i434.photobucket.com/albums/qq68/Aki-76/asiakas%20osia%20ja%20muuta/08042010818.jpg)
orginal size but slightly stronger ;)
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NICE work, my man. The attention to detail is fantastic. You've gotta post a video of the first run. ;D
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I mean are you using the TDI D-shaped crank nose, or the AAZ nose, or something else
(the interface between the crankshaft and timing belt sprocket)
-Owen
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TuboJ, don't overlook some kind of supporting bracket for your manifold turbo & downpipe as im sure they are VERY heavy. You dont want to pull all that weight on those manifold studs if you can avoid it.
torque is a powerful thing. and in this scenario im not refering to the torque of the engine but the mass of the turbo & downpipe on the lever arm which is the manifold.
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How is the injection pump attached to the block?
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the AAZ(or is it the TDI) pump mount only attaches to the front of the block, not to the end too like the 1.6
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Yes there will be bracing for the manifolds..
Aki's work is little short of phenomenal (as usual...) but it'll be more interesting still when that car is running. I'll be the first one in queue to have a run ;)
I will shortly finish my engine too, I now have the H-Profiles ready to go. I just have to get a CIS swap done on my daily first.
About Aki's work; there is really only one problem. When I see all the cool parts and mods he's doing to his engines, I instantly want to have them too :)
Well, I never said there isn't going to be an Evo2 build!
BTW, Aki, Jouni will be bringing you the GTI head with him next weekend - great to have you for help!
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I mean are you using the TDI D-shaped crank nose, or the AAZ nose, or something else
(the interface between the crankshaft and timing belt sprocket)
-Owen
This engine i use tdi d-shape crank and orginal 14mm bolt , my twin turbo engine use olso d-shaped crank and 16mm bolt !
Okey,i post first run video here,and dynovideo when i get it ;)
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Jeah..it´s runing ! ! !
i post video later ;D ;D ;D
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Aki only has 45 posts but they sure are legendary.
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aki, you are the dude 8), and the dude abides ;D
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Yeah AKI is like the silent bob of the GTD forum.
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That settles it then, I was contemplating hard for the longest time, but now I know. I'm moving to Finland ;)
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i can rent to you own room in my workshop :D
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jeah..only 0.1bar boost and little smoke
http://s434.photobucket.com/albums/qq68/Aki-76/kayttiksen%20osia/?action=view¤t=26042010019.flv (http://s434.photobucket.com/albums/qq68/Aki-76/kayttiksen%20osia/?action=view¤t=26042010019.flv)
max boost is 1.5bar and about 220hv...tomorrow mayby 2bar or 2.1bar
http://s434.photobucket.com/albums/qq68/Aki-76/kayttiksen%20osia/?action=view¤t=26042010018.flv (http://s434.photobucket.com/albums/qq68/Aki-76/kayttiksen%20osia/?action=view¤t=26042010018.flv)
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looks like you have two air intakes in there, mind if I ask how you are connecting both the turbo and supercharger to the intake?
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Jep,now new and bigger turbo.
http://aki76.kuvat.fi/kuvat/videota/07052010%28002%29.mp4 (http://aki76.kuvat.fi/kuvat/videota/07052010%28002%29.mp4)
small boost and lot of smoke ;D
Today mayby new precombust camber,with own desing...
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keep me in the loop on the new design of the swirl chambers. I am actively pursuing a way to make cheap, affordable "performance?" ceramic/composite chambers that will make the world look to IDI in a new light. OH! and provide all of our IDI brethren with an alternative to inconel.
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Tomorrow is dynoday ;)
Att last it´s fell good,litlle power and torgue cognizable ;D
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A looooong time waited dyno day, hopefully everything goes well ;D
(http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a297/mattif/80q/th_P5200392.jpg) (http://s13.photobucket.com/albums/a297/mattif/80q/?action=view¤t=P5200392.jpg)
A little peek of my build, 1/4 mile and dynoday at saturday. But there isn't anything that special, small pump with K14.
-
please be sure to take video. I am so glad Janne is getting it done. Mine is coming along now too.
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dynoday = master failure,clutch slide and power+torgue is poor
dynosheet
http://i434.photobucket.com/albums/qq68/Aki-76/moottorin%20osia/dynolappu247hv.jpg (http://i434.photobucket.com/albums/qq68/Aki-76/moottorin%20osia/dynolappu247hv.jpg)
and video.You can hear when clutch start failure
http://s434.photobucket.com/albums/qq68/Aki-76/moottorin%20osia/?action=view¤t=DSCN1057.flv (http://s434.photobucket.com/albums/qq68/Aki-76/moottorin%20osia/?action=view¤t=DSCN1057.flv)
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Nice stuff Aki! I can hardly wait to get the Jetta done too! Four cars to work on right now, so time is short, but I know you're familiar with that! I hope you can get the Vento going 100% soon! I'll come and check it out soon too!
To all the people who have sent private messages to me during the last couple of months:
I'm sorry I can't reply to your messages more quickly, I'm just way too busy to go through all the forums......
I am still live and kicking however!!
Here's a little teaser:
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Tekniikka/th_veivit.jpg) (http://s232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Tekniikka/?action=view¤t=veivit.jpg)(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Tekniikka/th_veivit2.jpg) (http://s232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Tekniikka/?action=view¤t=veivit2.jpg)(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Tekniikka/th_veivit3.jpg) (http://s232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Tekniikka/?action=view¤t=veivit3.jpg)(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Tekniikka/th_veivit4.jpg) (http://s232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Tekniikka/?action=view¤t=veivit4.jpg)
*click for bigger pictures*
That's a picture comparison between the eBay-sourced Chinese H-profiles, and genuine Pauter X-beam rods.
The measurements differ because the Pauters are for a 1.9 and the China rods are dor the 1.6.
My friend will run the Pauters on his uber-super IDI 1.9, which will be little short of revolutionary.
As for me, I will be testing how the China rods do - the price is 4x less than Pauter, so It'll be useful to know how they stand up to the challenge of a high-power IDI! Just looking at them and checking for tolerances, the China rods don't look half bad, although you can already see the Paurters are in their own league.
Now if I only could get the other three cars done so I could focus on the Jetta again...
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I would love to run x-beams in my setup, however they lose some strength with the weight, I worry, will they stand up to 40+ pounds of bost?
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The Pauters do seem incredibly strong when you have one in your hand.. I doubt there is any trouble with those rods. After all, some people seem to get away even with stock rods!
-
How many chargers can you spot in the picture?
http://aki76.kuvat.fi/kuvat/vento%20TTSI/kes%E4+2010+168.JPG (http://aki76.kuvat.fi/kuvat/vento%20TTSI/kes%E4+2010+168.JPG)
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It looks like a supercharger to a intercooler to a turbocharger to a intercooler to the intake 8)
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wicked ;D 8)
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i dunno looks to me like it goes turbo-intercooler-super-intercooler-intake
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Correct answer is : Turbo => turbo = > intercooler = > super = > intercooler and then intake
This setup is two turbos ;D
I take photo and post in here today
1/4 mile test video,1.3bar boost
Volkswagen Vento TTSI 1/4 mile test (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XO1oMFw066k#)
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your running a tripple setup!? ZOMG.
-
http://aki76.kuvat.fi/kuvat/vento%20TTSI/IMG_4472.JPG (http://aki76.kuvat.fi/kuvat/vento%20TTSI/IMG_4472.JPG)
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Probably doesn't need to be stated, but everything in this thread is awesome.
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what did it run
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not enough yet, maybe i have to get better tiers too..
-
what did it run in the quarter et and trap speed?
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15,0/150kmh. No traction and baaad boost leak.
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not bad, im sure it will improve alot in the future being that this is a new set up.
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At Saturday i drive 1/8 to 9.52 with no traction.60-120kmh is something like 4.6 sec.
Now i have little problem with small turbo,it´s too small and create counter pressure to bigger one.
Test continues and now i will change smaller turbo to very big,maybe to switzer S300 or S200super.
On the otherwise i have new plan build fast diesel car to drag and track...mayby winter we see something differd ;)
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now i have new turbo and a engine power is sufficient.
and i have some new ideas for traction.. :)
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Aki... your car is friggen sweet. how do you find real estate for a super, and 2 very large turbos?
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jeah.
now i have new car body to build for faster..
four-wheel drive and ventos old engine whit new turbos ;)
lighter and faster =)
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Got any more vids of your engine bay? You rock by the way! ;D
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Hi,
what`s on TurboJ, no progress since june?
Come on and do not longer torture us.
Best Regards
Alleslowbuged
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Once again I'm just dropping by quickly, but I'd like you people to know that I am in fact still alive :D
The car has only been waiting for my attention lately as I simply do not have the time.
BUT, I'm never any good in quitting anything, so it will all be done sooner than later!
Thanks for all the interest, I'll try to browse through all the personal messages too, soon.
Happy boosting!
-
Time to update the latest stuff...
My life has gone through some pretty big changes; a new fiancee, new lines of work... But also new energy and motivation!
I have made time plans far too many times to stress too much over such things, but the fact is once the latest shipments of parts come in, I won't be missing many anymore... So I think it is realistic to get the car running this winter, so that it'll be ready for the 2012 season. I hope, I hope...
I'll put up some pictures since the last ones are more than a year old already ::)
All the pics are thumbnails, so CLICK FOR BIGGER PICS
I continued working on the body shell:
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Kori/th_IMG_4212.jpg) (http://s232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Kori/?action=view¤t=IMG_4212.jpg)
..which led to the notion that there was still some more rust in the back end of the floor pan >:(
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Kori/th_IMG_0060.jpg) (http://s232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Kori/?action=view¤t=IMG_0060.jpg)
Quickly repaired though, since I don't feel rust repairs on the underside of a car have to be pretty.
Now the entire floor and all the wheel wells have been rust proofed too, at least two layers of Tectyl on each spot.
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Kori/th_IMG_0056.jpg) (http://s232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Kori/?action=view¤t=IMG_0056.jpg)(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Kori/th_IMG_0057.jpg) (http://s232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Kori/?action=view¤t=IMG_0057.jpg)(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Kori/th_IMG_0063.jpg) (http://s232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Kori/?action=view¤t=IMG_0063.jpg)
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The blue tape is there to stop the thinner rust proofing agent from spilling all over..
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Kori/th_IMG_0262.jpg) (http://s232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Kori/?action=view¤t=IMG_0262.jpg)
I went through the windscreen and back window frames with the stuff...
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Kori/th_IMG_0275.jpg) (http://s232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Kori/?action=view¤t=IMG_0275.jpg)
....as well as the box sections:
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Kori/th_IMG_0277.jpg) (http://s232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Kori/?action=view¤t=IMG_0277.jpg)
Should be OK for a mostly-summer vehicle I guess.
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Since I had progressed with the sound proofing and wiring also (pictures are on following posts), it was time to put the screens on:
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Kori/th_IMG_0443.jpg) (http://s232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Kori/?action=view¤t=IMG_0443.jpg)(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Kori/th_IMG_0431.jpg) (http://s232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Kori/?action=view¤t=IMG_0431.jpg)(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Kori/th_IMG_0435.jpg) (http://s232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Kori/?action=view¤t=IMG_0435.jpg)
A good friend helped with the fitting and also sourced a new front screen seal.
The back screen is used, I had choice of two, and so is the seal, so I hope that won't cause any problems..
I'll have to polish the rear screen a bit though, there is glue residue from stickers and a third brake light, as well as scrapes from past winters.
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The paint guy who did the bodywork's finish had already painted a badgeless grille I had, but during the 3+ years of this build my style opinion has tilted towards an OEM grille. So I had to paint an old one that I had lying around.
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Kori/th_IMG_0319.jpg) (http://s232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Kori/?action=view¤t=IMG_0319.jpg)
...which ofcourse required a badge to be finished in a suitable colour:
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Kori/th_IMG_0326.jpg) (http://s232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Kori/?action=view¤t=IMG_0326.jpg)
Should be fine, but too bad it'll still take many, many weeks before I get to put it on to see how it looks for real.
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When I was preparing the body for the paint shop back in 2009, I had a terrible hurry in repairing the windscreen wiper holes. Following my typical luck, the wiper axle holes were too small, so I had to grind some filler and metal off...
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Kori/th_IMG_0530.jpg) (http://s232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Kori/?action=view¤t=IMG_0530.jpg)
Now the wiper motor and arms, axles fit like a glove, finally.
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Kori/th_IMG_0532.jpg) (http://s232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Kori/?action=view¤t=IMG_0532.jpg)
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I have also been working with the sound insulating stuff.
Standardplast products work fine for me, nice pricing and easy application.
I put some Vibroplast on the fire wall's inside, plus the wheel wells.
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Sisusta/th_IMG_0049.jpg) (http://s232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Sisusta/?action=view¤t=IMG_0049.jpg)
I also did the rear seat area and rear wheel wells.
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Sisusta/th_IMG_0210.jpg) (http://s232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Sisusta/?action=view¤t=IMG_0210.jpg)
...and since I now wanted to do the trunk area too, I had to clean it up a bit:
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Sisusta/th_IMG_0086.jpg) (http://s232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Sisusta/?action=view¤t=IMG_0086.jpg)
And this is the end result:
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Sisusta/th_IMG_0282.jpg) (http://s232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Sisusta/?action=view¤t=IMG_0282.jpg)
A project of three years has changed some of my objectives a couple of times.
A while back I wanted to make this car almost 'full race', but now I'm after a more civilized result. That means I have started thinking more about the sound levels. I'm not building a stereo car - I'm not interested in that stuff at all, but I want the car to be easy on the ears on longer trips of which there will be many in the future.
So I also put some silicone seam filler on all the lateral seams on the inner roof:
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Sisusta/th_IMG_0304.jpg) (http://s232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Sisusta/?action=view¤t=IMG_0304.jpg)
That should help the vibration-induced noise from the roof area, without having to put on any heavy insulating stuff this high-up (would not be nice for weight distribution).
The aluminum-covered butyl sheets work best against low-frequency noise and vibrations, so something else was needed for high-frequency noise:
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Sisusta/th_IMG_0237.jpg) (http://s232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Sisusta/?action=view¤t=IMG_0237.jpg)
This adhesive-backed foam stuff is good for that, although stupidly expensive...
I covered all the seams with some special tape to help the seams not let unnecessery sound waves through, and also to stop the glue residue from sticking to the carpets later on:
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Sisusta/th_IMG_0294.jpg) (http://s232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Sisusta/?action=view¤t=IMG_0294.jpg)
It looks likely that this is the only piece of factory sound proofing that will stay in this car.
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Sisusta/th_IMG_0393.jpg) (http://s232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Sisusta/?action=view¤t=IMG_0393.jpg)
For the rest, I'm trying a kit supplied by VW Heritage UK.
So I will still have factory-style sound deadening mats on the floor, but under them a foam solution, under which there is the butyl mat. That should be quite enough, even though the factory "filler" style stuff has been removed from the floor.
I'll see how it works next spring I guess!
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The heater system could now be fitted. Somehow it felt like a big deal to me.
It took three heaters to build one decent unit :)
Well, now at least I can dismantle and fit together a mk2 heater system!
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Sisusta/th_IMG_0392.jpg) (http://s232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Sisusta/?action=view¤t=IMG_0392.jpg)
...on it went:
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Sisusta/th_IMG_0399.jpg) (http://s232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Sisusta/?action=view¤t=IMG_0399.jpg)
Which meant I could now start building the wiring harness. Now, about this I was really enthusiastic! :-\
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Sisusta/th_IMG_0376.jpg) (http://s232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Sisusta/?action=view¤t=IMG_0376.jpg)
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Sisusta/th_IMG_0383.jpg) (http://s232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Sisusta/?action=view¤t=IMG_0383.jpg)
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Sisusta/th_IMG_0423.jpg) (http://s232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Sisusta/?action=view¤t=IMG_0423.jpg)
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I'm not doing a full wire tuck thing, but I want the engine bay to look clean and simple all the same.
My focus is on useability, so the plan was from the beginning to make one wiring loom for the engine, and another for the stuff that's on the very nose of the car. That one, which handles the headlights, horn, rad fan etc, will go through the rain tray and the left fender. The engine loom will go where it goes normally, but this way there will be a lot less wires.
Also, I'm converting my '91 electric system to use older heat and pressure sensors, so that I can use cast aluminium water flanges on the engine. This also lessens the need for many wires, since I can use the engine as a ground for many of the sensors.
I'm building a 4-branch system for the glow plugs:
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Sisusta/th_IMG_0421.jpg) (http://s232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Sisusta/?action=view¤t=IMG_0421.jpg)
An artsy picture of the whole mess; although that's only about 1/4 of the wires there yet!
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Sisusta/th_IMG_0413.jpg) (http://s232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Sisusta/?action=view¤t=IMG_0413.jpg)
Here you can see how I routed the 'secondary front loom´:
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Sisusta/th_IMG_0426.jpg) (http://s232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Sisusta/?action=view¤t=IMG_0426.jpg)
(it's the big cable that goes over the heater housing and from there onto the rain tray)
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The front brakes needed some attention..
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Alusta/th_IMG_4190.jpg) (http://s232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Alusta/?action=view¤t=IMG_4190.jpg)
So I had the calipers sand blasted and powder-coated:
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Alusta/th_IMG_0361.jpg) (http://s232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Alusta/?action=view¤t=IMG_0361.jpg)
Then I sprayed on some bright red caliper paint.
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Alusta/th_IMG_0362.jpg) (http://s232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Alusta/?action=view¤t=IMG_0362.jpg)
I hope the calipers will look fine when I get to dismantle them ::)
The sand blasting has to be done with the pistons, seals and hoses attached so it's a risky business, but I'm sure they're fine...
I also managed to find some cheap OE rear brake shields, and treated them to some hammerite:
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Alusta/th_IMG_0437.jpg) (http://s232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Alusta/?action=view¤t=IMG_0437.jpg)
Sometimes (not often) it's useful to work as a auto parts salesman:
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Alusta/th_IMG_0404.jpg) (http://s232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Alusta/?action=view¤t=IMG_0404.jpg)
Needless to say, I didn't have to pay exactly the list price for the DS pads. Now the car should be able to stop too, even though I only have the OE 280mm G60 front brakes and regular GTI rear discs. Brembo or AP Racing WOULD be cool, but the price, you know...
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Then it was time to paint the G60 front anti-roll bar (23 mm stock!) and the rear strut brace:
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Alusta/th_IMG_0306.jpg) (http://s232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Alusta/?action=view¤t=IMG_0306.jpg)
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Alusta/th_IMG_0316.jpg) (http://s232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Alusta/?action=view¤t=IMG_0316.jpg)
Tornado Rot, obviously... ;)
...the lower front stress bar had already been painted and I even fitted it:
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Alusta/th_IMG_0547.jpg) (http://s232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Alusta/?action=view¤t=IMG_0547.jpg)'
Yes, that's the subframe, streering rack, a-arms and stuff already fitted.
...and here you can see the rear strut brace in place:
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Alusta/th_IMG_0430.jpg) (http://s232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Alusta/?action=view¤t=IMG_0430.jpg)
While the front one doesn't even exist yet; I'll fabricate it myself when I see how much clearance there is after the engine is in.
I still did fit the mounting plates for the strut brace, custom parts made by Aki:
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Alusta/th_IMG_0542.jpg) (http://s232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Alusta/?action=view¤t=IMG_0542.jpg)
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Goodies from good old Deutschland:
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Alusta/th_IMG_0401.jpg) (http://s232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Alusta/?action=view¤t=IMG_0401.jpg)
I sold some time ago the BBS -knock off wheels that I had. In the end I didn't want to do the "RS thing" like everybody does; I wanted a bit more personality. Since I also wanted some quality wheels, it took a very long time before I could settle on what wheels I wanted.
But this is what the final decision was: Open the boxes, and...
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Alusta/th_IMG_0408.jpg) (http://s232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Alusta/?action=view¤t=IMG_0408.jpg)
Ronal Turbo R10 15x7 ET 28.
So I also went one size smaller from my previously planned Lenso BSX 16x7.5.
Now I just have to find some sticky rubber in 195/45 R15 to cover those ronals with.
My opinion is that the 'Turbo would look better on a small bumper car, but I like them on big bumper cars too.
I'm thinking about having them painted in medium gunmetal grey in the future, I think that would work better with T-rod than the silver finish they come as stock.
-
Before the spring of 2011, it had been almost a full year since I had done anything to the Jetta.
That, and the fact that VW parts were almost everywhere yet at the same time always nowhere to be found, I decided to clean up the house a bit:
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Tekniikka/th_IMG_0113.jpg) (http://s232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Tekniikka/?action=view¤t=IMG_0113.jpg)
After which things started to look a little like this inside:
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Tekniikka/th_IMG_0103.jpg) (http://s232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Tekniikka/?action=view¤t=IMG_0103.jpg)
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Probably the last heap of parts to be sent to sand blasting/ powder coating:
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Tekniikka/th_IMG_0257.jpg) (http://s232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Tekniikka/?action=view¤t=IMG_0257.jpg)
And they came back looking like this:
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Tekniikka/th_IMG_0355.jpg) (http://s232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Tekniikka/?action=view¤t=IMG_0355.jpg)
The front hubs dismantled so the ABS rings could be taken off and new bearings fitted:
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Tekniikka/th_IMG_0342.jpg) (http://s232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Tekniikka/?action=view¤t=IMG_0342.jpg)
The starter motor was so new that I didn't replace it. Of course it had to be painted then:
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Tekniikka/th_IMG_0312.jpg) (http://s232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Tekniikka/?action=view¤t=IMG_0312.jpg)
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Tekniikka/th_IMG_0314.jpg) (http://s232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Tekniikka/?action=view¤t=IMG_0314.jpg)
...and the end result can be seen here along with other parts I had done a while ago:
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Tekniikka/th_IMG_0347.jpg) (http://s232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Tekniikka/?action=view¤t=IMG_0347.jpg)
(the alternator was just there waiting to be taken away as an exchange core for a new one)
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Labeling the last remaining bits of electrics:
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Tekniikka/th_IMG_0252.jpg) (http://s232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Tekniikka/?action=view¤t=IMG_0252.jpg)
More new parts:
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Tekniikka/th_IMG_0338.jpg) (http://s232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Tekniikka/?action=view¤t=IMG_0338.jpg)
8V GTI's CV joints since the drive shafts I aquired were that spec. For the cooling system I did a little research. I got a T3 Transporter 80-degree thermostat and a eighties Saab 900 Turbo thermoswitch for the rad fan; will blow from 82 to 68 degrees! Goodbye heat problems in city driving!
Some more freshly painted parts:
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Tekniikka/th_IMG_0368.jpg) (http://s232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Tekniikka/?action=view¤t=IMG_0368.jpg)
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The brake booster mounting flange and the clutch master cylinder are also on:
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Tekniikka/th_IMG_0386.jpg) (http://s232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Tekniikka/?action=view¤t=IMG_0386.jpg)
And today I finally got to continue my work on the electrics.
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Tekniikka/th_IMG_0538.jpg) (http://s232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Tekniikka/?action=view¤t=IMG_0538.jpg)
The custom part of my wiring system will require many new fuses and relays to be fitted somewhere. I want them to be easily accessible yet hidden from the casual eye. So I decided to fit the fuse boxes and relay mounts in the rain tray, below the removable plastic upper part of the rain tray.
Test fitment:
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Tekniikka/th_IMG_0536.jpg) (http://s232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Tekniikka/?action=view¤t=IMG_0536.jpg)
...and the extra relays will go under the tray on the right - the one that would house the ECU on fuel-injected gasoline models. As for the fuse boxes that can be seen on the picture, the left one is for the 4 glow plugs, and is separate because their wires are routed differently. The one on the right will provide protection for everything else.
OK, Now I'll go and get some sleep!
More will follow, but in the meantime, have a great time with your VWs too!
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Its sure good to see your build updated. Glad to here all is well. Keep up the great work. Can't wait to see the finnal outcome.
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still alive and kicking as i can see.
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Hi,
winter time is garage time, any progress?
We all are waiting for the "everthing done perfekt" result.
Best Regards
Alleslowbuged
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Perfect... lol !
But anyway, yes I have been working on the Jetta. Quite a lot actually...
I haven't wanted to post pictures yet since most of the work is of the kind you can't see.
I've been working with the electrics still, and it's really been a LOT of work.
Now the interior part and bulkhead part of the electrics are done. Routed the wires better and replaced all wires front from the firewall.
Fitted separate fuses for glow plugs, manual/automatic cooling fan control, semi-hidden engine harness, wires for extra gauges and stereo, as well
as new electric locking system with alarm and remote control. But what took most time was making it all look OEM or nicer... ::)
Next week I'll be doing the last bits of sound deadening for the passenger compartment, and then the dash and carpets will go on!
Then the fuel lines and tank.
Then suspension and brakes. (And cooling systems fitment and modifying the mounting points for them...)
Then... It's time for engine -> hopefully running in... Late April... ???
-
Hi,
did you make some process, did it run allready?
Best Regards
-
Once again it's been a typical car building year for me --> two days at the garage at Christmas and two days in the summer. So no huge leaps of progress here.
But, I will not give up.
Sound deadening almost done. You can even spot my windscreen washer fluid line on the picture ;)
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Sisusta/th_025.jpg) (http://s232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Sisusta/?action=view¤t=025.jpg)
Yes, the reservoir and the pump will sit in the boot of the car...
Also cleaned up and treated my best dashboard:
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Sisusta/th_050.jpg) (http://s232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Sisusta/?action=view¤t=050.jpg)
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Painted the anti-roll bar end links along with the cam pulley.
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Alusta/th_028.jpg) (http://s232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Alusta/?action=view¤t=028.jpg)
The new rear brake calipers pre-paint:
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Alusta/th_032.jpg) (http://s232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Alusta/?action=view¤t=032.jpg)
The front brake calipers and their carriers (and the rears without theirs) after the finishing layer of paint:
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Alusta/th_040.jpg) (http://s232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Alusta/?action=view¤t=040.jpg)
...and the fronts fitted with all new parts (sorry for the bad pic)
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Alusta/th_IMG_1752.jpg) (http://s232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Alusta/?action=view¤t=IMG_1752.jpg)
The 22 mm H&R front anti-roll bar.
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Alusta/th_043.jpg) (http://s232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Alusta/?action=view¤t=043.jpg)
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I replaced all three plastic water flanges on the engine with aluminum:
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Tekniikka/th_036.jpg) (http://s232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Tekniikka/?action=view¤t=036.jpg)
Which now look suitably stealthy painted matte black:
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Tekniikka/th_037.jpg) (http://s232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Tekniikka/?action=view¤t=037.jpg)
I also visited Aki's new workshop - which really is something to be seen - but unfortunately I didn't have my camera with me. Crappy cell phone pictures don't do it justice at all.
But here are just a couple teaser pics:
If you need to build a monster injection pump, then....
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Tekniikka/th_Photo0096.jpg) (http://s232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Tekniikka/?action=view¤t=Photo0096.jpg)
...and just in case you want to put on a new cylinder head, preferably with a few tweaks, then look no further:
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Tekniikka/th_Photo0098.jpg) (http://s232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Tekniikka/?action=view¤t=Photo0098.jpg)
Tomorrow my plan is to work hard on the Jetta so hopefully there will be some progress to report later!
Good luck with your own projects!
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Fantastic!! i have just read this from beginning to end.
I am 5 yrs into a rebuild as well (mgb) and things just take longer than you expect if its not your full time job.
Keep going and i (like many) can't wait to see the final result.
Kind regards
Nathan
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If my wife would only read this. She thought my 3-4 year deal was too long. Keep it up Janne
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Thank you kindly, fellow VW'ers!
As it happens, today wasn't such a big day after all - the VW dealership doublecrossed me in that they had given my suspension nut to someone else even though it was reserved for me ::)
But here are a couple more pictures that I wanted to share anyway. Tomorrow I'll drive off with my new wife to see the lovely lakes of middle Finland and the 2012 Rally Finland. Inspiration, here I come!
On to the pictures then.
This is what my new auxiliary central electric unit looks like:
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Tekniikka/th_IMG_1758.jpg) (http://s232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Tekniikka/?action=view¤t=IMG_1758.jpg)
...all the added new electric systems are controlled by relays mounted here and of course there is also a fuse for each circuit.
There's, for example, both automatic and manual control for the radiator fan. Should keep my cyl head OK...
And here's how I did the glow plug wiring:
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Tekniikka/th_IMG_1760.jpg) (http://s232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Tekniikka/?action=view¤t=IMG_1760.jpg)
Individual wires and fuses for each glow plug so I won't get stranded if one blows a fuse.
The beauty of this wiring layout is the once the rain tray plastics are on, all this is completely hidden. I like myself for that :)
There is still some electric work left but I'll try to do the suspension and brakes first. Some change helps when you get frustrated by working 100+ hours on just one aspect of your car...
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Speaking of the suspension, the H&R anti-roll bar is on:
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Alusta/th_IMG_1764.jpg) (http://s232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Alusta/?action=view¤t=IMG_1764.jpg)
...while the rear one is still waiting.
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Alusta/th_IMG_1770.jpg) (http://s232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Alusta/?action=view¤t=IMG_1770.jpg)
I have to sort out the fuel tank and make a new sender unit before I can fit it - the rear axle will only go on after that.
But I now have almost every part for it:
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Alusta/th_IMG_1778.jpg) (http://s232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Alusta/?action=view¤t=IMG_1778.jpg)
So I started to put it together.
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Alusta/th_IMG_1781.jpg) (http://s232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Alusta/?action=view¤t=IMG_1781.jpg)
I'll try to make it a complete rear axle and then fit it to the car once it is. Should be easier that way..
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Here's how I did the sound deadening:
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Sisusta/th_IMG_1757.jpg) (http://s232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Sisusta/?action=view¤t=IMG_1757.jpg)
There is Vibroplast (foil covered butyl sheet) all over the floor, and there's foam plastic on top of that. On top of that, there's fabric rag that's glued to the foam plastic.
The front bulkhead has the original rubber mat over the foam plastic and Vibroplast. Once I put the original mat on top of the transmission tunnel too, I think the front section
is pretty much covered. The goal is that the Jetta couldn't be recognized as a mk2 by its sound levels :) The trunk area will need some more work still, but it'll just be fun.
I just hope my cheapish S/S exhaust will be quiet enough. I want a civilized tourer of a car, not a farm tractor!
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Oh, by the way, here's my new monster pump. Thank you Aki!
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Tekniikka/th_Photo0109.jpg) (http://s232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Tekniikka/?action=view¤t=Photo0109.jpg)
Pretty much the only things standard about this pump is what you can see from the outside. On the inside, not one component has been left standard 8)
-- -- -- --
-"One big turbo, please."
-"How would you like it sir?"
-"Well done, please."
-"Coming right up, sir!"
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Tekniikka/th_Photo0087.jpg) (http://s232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Tekniikka/?action=view¤t=Photo0087.jpg)
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Oh what fun I wish I woulda took pictures when I cooked mine
-
OK, so there was a lot still to be done to my engine..
We had to redo the main bearing line twice because the old bearing caps were too worn.
And at the same time we put in the H-profile rods just to be on the safe side.
Aki's telling my new turbo should be able to push 240 horsepower and the new pump is good for 270 hp, so steel rods were not a bad idea :)
We also settled on a new finish - it's a bit bright, but I think it'll fit the dark-shaded engine bay just fine.
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Tekniikka/th_kone0.jpg) (http://s232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Tekniikka/?action=view¤t=kone0.jpg)
The turbo is looking like this when it's mounted:
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Tekniikka/th_kone1.jpg) (http://s232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Tekniikka/?action=view¤t=kone1.jpg)
Here Aki is test fitting the turbo with my new intake manifold.
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Tekniikka/th_kone2.jpg) (http://s232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Tekniikka/?action=view¤t=kone2.jpg)
The new intake manifold is here:
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Tekniikka/th_kone3.jpg) (http://s232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Tekniikka/?action=view¤t=kone3.jpg)
There's still some work to be done on it, but it's looking good.
On this long project a lot has changed during its development and one of those things has been knowledge on camshafts.
We decided to change to another type of intake manifold because a short-runner design like this works better with the aggressive camshaft
that I have. My older long-runner manifold will be good for someone's TD with a more conservative camshaft.
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is that the stock vw exhaust manifold? i have been curious how much hp it is really good for, i've seen gas engines use it up to 180whp
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There are stock manifolds and stock manifolds... ;)
Some variants have been used on 1.9's developing well over 300 hp, but some are quite poor.
For example, the stock 1.6 TD exhaust manifold doesn't work well at all.
My engine will (according to today's knowledge) indeed use a modified stock exhaust manifold.
There are one or two secrets to make them work, and as you will see on the end result, some are
rather surprising.
-
I understand. On my car I ported the runners as far in as I could but the spots between cylinder 1&2 and 3&4 is hard to reach obviously. My manifold is originally from a 1.6td. I did not port the turbo side much other than to clean it up since the outlet already matched the t3 turbine quite well so I did not see any reason to open it up
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Took some time to organize some bolts and nuts. Now THAT was fun ::)
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/th_IMG_1896.jpg) (http://s232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/?action=view¤t=IMG_1896.jpg)
Some things are incredibly difficult to clean... I already started to clean the fuel tank years ago! I have used many kinds of chemicals
and also lots of manual work on it. Now it was time to get it finally done:
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Tekniikka/th_IMG_1903.jpg) (http://s232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Tekniikka/?action=view¤t=IMG_1903.jpg)
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Tekniikka/th_IMG_1895.jpg) (http://s232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Tekniikka/?action=view¤t=IMG_1895.jpg)
And of course once I had been cleaning it for some hours (chemicals, jet wash, rubbing with a brush and a splint... # &@§ !! )
...it was time for paint at last.
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Tekniikka/th_IMG_1916.jpg) (http://s232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Tekniikka/?action=view¤t=IMG_1916.jpg)
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While this bugger really got me annoyed.
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Kori/th_IMG_1901.jpg) (http://s232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Kori/?action=view¤t=IMG_1901.jpg)
Never has any part of a car been so utterly difficult to get clean. It took hours and hours and at least four types of solvents and cleaners, jet wash and blood and sweat and tears. Great! Awesome! Niiiiice!
Work in progress...
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Kori/th_IMG_1892.jpg) (http://s232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Kori/?action=view¤t=IMG_1892.jpg)
But finally:
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Kori/th_IMG_1900.jpg) (http://s232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Kori/?action=view¤t=IMG_1900.jpg)
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Kori/th_IMG_1942.jpg) (http://s232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Kori/?action=view¤t=IMG_1942.jpg)
And then of course I went on to spray it with some stainless steel coating - nice shine and top notch heat resistance.
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Kori/th_IMG_1943.jpg) (http://s232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Kori/?action=view¤t=IMG_1943.jpg)
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Took a money shot of the front suspension parts. Just a shame about the rug :)
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Alusta/th_IMG_1855.jpg) (http://s232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Alusta/?action=view¤t=IMG_1855.jpg)
Then continued the assembly. Epoxy coating on those hub carriers.
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Alusta/th_IMG_1861.jpg) (http://s232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Alusta/?action=view¤t=IMG_1861.jpg)
aaand.. There they sit. Now just the top mounts to tighten. Someone know the tightening torque for VR6 top mount's lower nut? Oh, and the top one too come to think of it...
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Alusta/th_IMG_1864.jpg) (http://s232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Alusta/?action=view¤t=IMG_1864.jpg)
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The front caliper carriers dismantled and the slide holes carefully cleaned.
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Alusta/th_IMG_1868.jpg) (http://s232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Alusta/?action=view¤t=IMG_1868.jpg)
...fitted with new slides and rubbers:
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Alusta/th_IMG_1874.jpg) (http://s232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Alusta/?action=view¤t=IMG_1874.jpg)
The rears needed a little more attention. They had been badly treated in their earlier life, so there was some minor rust around the slide holes.
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Alusta/th_IMG_1910.jpg) (http://s232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Alusta/?action=view¤t=IMG_1910.jpg)
30 minutes of cleaning resulted in a nicely oiled action on the carriers. Then I touched up some paint damage on the carriers and calipers:
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Alusta/th_IMG_1919.jpg) (http://s232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Alusta/?action=view¤t=IMG_1919.jpg)
Front calipers ended up like this:
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Alusta/th_IMG_1754.jpg) (http://s232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Alusta/?action=view¤t=IMG_1754.jpg)
That's all the brake stuff ready for assembly - finally!
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Alusta/th_IMG_1924.jpg) (http://s232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Alusta/?action=view¤t=IMG_1924.jpg)
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02A type cable holder and related parts; they hadn't aged so well!
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Tekniikka/th_IMG_1933.jpg) (http://s232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Tekniikka/?action=view¤t=IMG_1933.jpg)
But some brass wire brush and minor cuts on my hands later:
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Tekniikka/th_IMG_1935.jpg) (http://s232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Tekniikka/?action=view¤t=IMG_1935.jpg)
Hammerite on:
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Tekniikka/th_IMG_1938.jpg) (http://s232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Tekniikka/?action=view¤t=IMG_1938.jpg)
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I also wanted to get started with the engine.
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Tekniikka/th_IMG_1929.jpg) (http://s232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Tekniikka/?action=view¤t=IMG_1929.jpg)
It's been a really long way, and I really don't know how it will run - there are so many custom parts etc. But other people's results have been encouraging to say the least.
Really, I'm just as eager as a young boy with his toys to get this thing running.
Oh, and the assembly is so much fun! But it does remind me of the countless hours of preparing the parts. I have even treated quite many parts that eventually did not end up on my car.
Next time, I will do more planning ahead! :) (but it seems like I've done so much of it already....)
Misc engine parts ready to be fitted:
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Tekniikka/th_IMG_1925.jpg) (http://s232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Tekniikka/?action=view¤t=IMG_1925.jpg)
Oil sandwhich fitted - I will run a front mounted air-to-oil cooler and have ditched the original heat exchanger. There's a thermostat in there as well to keep oil temps at optimum.
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Tekniikka/th_IMG_1952.jpg) (http://s232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Tekniikka/?action=view¤t=IMG_1952.jpg)
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Tekniikka/th_IMG_1967.jpg) (http://s232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Tekniikka/?action=view¤t=IMG_1967.jpg)
The rear engine support is on:
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Tekniikka/th_IMG_1971.jpg) (http://s232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Tekniikka/?action=view¤t=IMG_1971.jpg)
...as well as the cam belt back plate and pump support:
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Tekniikka/th_IMG_1986.jpg) (http://s232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Tekniikka/?action=view¤t=IMG_1986.jpg)
I sourced all three aluminum water flanges for this engine - no more broken water flanges for me... Two of them on this picture (coated with silver hammerite, of course...)
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Tekniikka/th_IMG_1989.jpg) (http://s232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Tekniikka/?action=view¤t=IMG_1989.jpg)
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There are stock manifolds and stock manifolds... ;)
Some variants have been used on 1.9's developing well over 300 hp, but some are quite poor.
For example, the stock 1.6 TD exhaust manifold doesn't work well at all.
My engine will (according to today's knowledge) indeed use a modified stock exhaust manifold.
There are one or two secrets to make them work, and as you will see on the end result, some are
rather surprising.
I need to know, what are they? I am for some reason guessing that it is making the runners smaller, but let us know.
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PM sent ;)
All of you VW guys, though, anyone have info on this:
Someone know the tightening torque for VR6 top mount's lower nut? Oh, and the top one too come to think of it...
It's difficult sometimes having only the mk2 Bentley manual...
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Not trying to hi-jack your thread here so maybe messaging me would be best but: Where did you find these fittings?!
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Tekniikka/036.jpg)
My plastic ones are warped and leak *most* of the time.
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Has the pump been bench tested? How many CC did it deliver and what is max RPM? I'm guessing at least 12mm piston to be able to support those 270hp on paper?
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Not trying to hi-jack your thread here so maybe messaging me would be best but: Where did you find these fittings?!
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Tekniikka/036.jpg)
My plastic ones are warped and leak *most* of the time.
those are mk1, or early mk2 GASSER flanges..
the top one wont work well.. the bypass hose connection points DIRECTLY at the end of the injection pump..
it is best to find coolant flanges off a mk1 diesel engine..
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They are indeed out of a '86 Jetta GLI.
Good thing that you pointed out the problem with the pump clearance! Somehow I assumed the flanges were the same on gassers and diesels.
I'll have to dig a little deeper for a mk1 diesel flange or else I have to cut and weld the present one...
Hey, anyone have a good picture of a standard 1.6 D / TD water flange so I can see what the correct angle is. Thanks!
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(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v306/Trev0rbr/PA280440.jpg)(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v306/Trev0rbr/PA280432.jpg)
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Thanks!
Much appreciated.
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I think it's time I started posting full pictures so you guys won't have to right click so much :)
I fixed the water flange problem by sourcing a Transporter water flange:
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Tekniikka/IMG_2043.jpg)
....and some clean up of the pump mounting parts:
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Tekniikka/IMG_1993.jpg)
Then I could test fit the VE pump for the first time. There are some final touches to be made on it still.
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Tekniikka/IMG_2076.jpg)
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Fuel tank is only missing one hose clip and it's ready to be fitted:
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Tekniikka/IMG_2002.jpg)
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The e-brake cable guides were looking very poorly.
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Kori/IMG_2004.jpg)
But that's not a problem to a wire brush..
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Kori/IMG_2007.jpg)
I also cleaned and painted with stainless steel spray the rear heat shield of the exhaust system:
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Kori/IMG_1998.jpg)
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Time to continue working with the braking system then.
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Alusta/IMG_2017.jpg)
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Alusta/IMG_2018.jpg)
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Alusta/IMG_2025.jpg)
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Alusta/IMG_2023.jpg)
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Alusta/IMG_2030.jpg)
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The rears:
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Alusta/IMG_2096.jpg)
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Alusta/IMG_2100.jpg)
Very soon I will post some interesting stuff considering my new fuel pickup and the whole fuel system really!
I'm having a blast working on the Jetta now and I believe this is finally the autumn it will run. It will, it will!
Meanwhile, there's a great opportunity for you guys too. My old intake and exhaust manifolds are for sale ( http://www.vwdiesel.net/forum/index.php?topic=31935.0 )
...help me out and help you out at the same time, no?
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Has the pump been bench tested? How many CC did it deliver and what is max RPM? I'm guessing at least 12mm piston to be able to support those 270hp on paper?
Yes, it was bench tested. Unfortunately I don't have the prints with me.
11 mm Bosch head in there, but apart from that, all internal pump parts have been modified.
Some have been replaced altogether with other types of parts.
I won't go into more detail just now - I want to see how it runs first :)
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also liked to know what was the modded parts on the exhaust manifold...
i had to have mine welded to turbo because of lack of space so i have to keep this manifold...
(http://t1.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcS6RlJgWC457rdxAWcFwTbugqCQmjnJeDX3rcGwHUhKgMwaYN7gbTidfLLaYA)
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PM sent :)
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:( I wanna know to see if I did it right
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:( I wanna know to see if I did it right
These built engines are all individuals. There isn't a do-it-all recipe that works on all engines.
You always have to test it to see what happens. If something doesn't work right, there's usually a clear remedy though.
If you get good spool-up and no drop on power before 5000 rpm, it can be said that your exhaust side is OK.
Provided of course, that EGT and EGP are good.
The thing is, good flow is only good if you get decent spool-up. Unless you have a VNT.
This is important because you will need a BIG turbo to flow the amount of air a diesel needs.
A big turbo is tough to get spooled up. Considering, then, exhaust manifold design:
You need to focus on spool-up first and flow second.
A big turbo will then help the flow, because
the turbine will flow more than a small one.
This is what I know, how to implement this depends on your machine and its parts.
I would say the most important thing is a decent turbo, though. If you have a high power target, forget the 80's turbos.
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Ok that makes sense. I am hoping my ideas about my turbo will be true, i have used the 50 trim t3 compressor from a volvo, it flows up to 250bhp and has a peak efficiency of 75%, and is atleast 70% efficient up at a pr of 3 (30psi). I think the compressor efficiency is pretty good considering the stock turbo peaks at 70, and most newer turbos peak at around 78%. On this forum we have seen that the 45 trim t3 is good for over 200whp. the exhaust side is the stock vw parts, .36 a/r housing and stock turbine wheel. i think the older turbine wheel is probably the more inefficient part of my turbo, fortunately tho, since it is a garret t3 there are many aftermarket turbine wheels i can have installed to increase flow, and probably spool up too with the more modern design, but that is only if the stock one seems to be lacking. i have also read that some of the ford cosworth cars came from the factory with the .36 a/r turbine housing, and the cosworth guys say it is good for 230bhp, I am hoping this is also true for us vw nuts since diesel egt's are lower, and also diesels run a lower air to fuel ratio, so the exhaust gases will be smaller because of less heat, and also will be smaller since there is less fuel added that needs to flow through the turbo as well. But i do realize that the cosworth guys also do not have to run such high pressures to make their power. And best of all i have spent only around 200 dollars total for my turbo, which my friend rebuilt for me. that was longer than i had intended haha, anyways back to talking about your car as that is what this thread is for
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Today I finally finished my fuel pickup unit, or sender unit, as some people call them.
It was a major pain to make. It would have been way easier to modify the trunk floor and fit a safety cell fuel tank with a transfer pump
and a catch tank. Even a stock GTI arrangement would have been fine. But, I don't like adding electric devices to a mechanical fuel system.
Working as a car spares salesman has taught me not to trust cheap fuel pumps, and expensive ones are, well, expensive. One more part
to fail is an unnecessary worry, and I wanted to keep the OEM touch to everything as well.
The stock fuel system is designed for 80 hp max, so my goal of 200+ hp called for an upgrade.
Think what you may, we have seen benefits and some have even broken engines with the stock fuel system...
So this is what I wanted to replicate in my build:
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Valiaikainen%20yhteiskansio/IMG_1889.jpg)
And to make the new unit this is what I had to play with:
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Valiaikainen%20yhteiskansio/IMG_2045.jpg)
...there are two 1.6 TD sender units and one 1.8 carburetor one.
The carb one was chosen to serve as a donor unit so I started by cutting it in pieces:
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Valiaikainen%20yhteiskansio/IMG_2053.jpg)
...as you can see the standard unit not only has small diameter fuel lines, they are crimped as well!
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Valiaikainen%20yhteiskansio/IMG_2054.jpg)
Then it was time to pull out the original fuel pipes altogether, and fill the holes:
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Valiaikainen%20yhteiskansio/IMG_2058.jpg)
Next up was cutting a 1.6 TD sender unit to see how the internals were designed:
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Valiaikainen%20yhteiskansio/IMG_2067.jpg)
It's a real clever system, it has a swirl channel, baffles and a breathing system. All that is spring loaded onto the fuel tank too,
to work with different fuel loads and tank pressure.
Here's how the bottom part works: ( imu means pickup, paluu means return )
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Valiaikainen%20yhteiskansio/IMG_2106.jpg)
So now I knew what I needed to accomplish. Then the real work began...
The top cap needed to be re-drilled, and an attachment system needed to be made for the new 'catch can' of sorts.
Aluminum was my material of choice, for its lightness and ease of working on. 10x8 mm pipes were chosen for
the entire fuel system. That gave me options for filters and connectors etc. Stock pickup line has a maximum of 6mm inner diameter.
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Valiaikainen%20yhteiskansio/IMG_2071.jpg)
The net benefit of this? Maximum flow capacity is now at least 1.6x the original. At least, because the OE system has
those bottle necks... OK, the capacity did not grow 2.5 times, but considering there is still extra potential in the OE system, this should do.
Making the lines bigger would have yielded many kinds of fitting problems.
I made caps for the catch can and a support for the fuel gauge sender:
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Valiaikainen%20yhteiskansio/IMG_2082.jpg)
The gauge sender had to be a specific type (Valeo origin) because the VDO one would not fit onto the catch can without serious modification.
Here it is, cut off of the old 1.6 TD sender unit:
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Valiaikainen%20yhteiskansio/IMG_2068.jpg)
And of course holes needed to be drilled, and room made for the connecting bolts:
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Valiaikainen%20yhteiskansio/IMG_2074.jpg)
At this point what I had was this:
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Valiaikainen%20yhteiskansio/IMG_2084.jpg)
Top cap and pipes were then welded onto the catch can:
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Valiaikainen%20yhteiskansio/IMG_2109.jpg)
Mocking up a baffle system:
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Valiaikainen%20yhteiskansio/IMG_2112.jpg)
The final design welded up, and pickup holes also drilled (to the same angle as the original design). Fuel pickup pipe is in the middle:
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Valiaikainen%20yhteiskansio/IMG_2118.jpg)
I made the chamber a little different than the original, mainly to allow the return line only flow to the whole fuel tank through the pickup area.
I believe this is a safer design since I did not include the original "outer curve" for the primary inlet.
After that, the bottom was sealed up with a round cap. There is only a 2mm gap between the end of the pickup pipe and the catch can floor.
Should make it difficult for air to get in there!
Supports were welded onto the catch tank/upper retainer. Then I epoxied the upper retainer to the top cap to keep all the fuel fumes inside the
fuel tank and the breathing system that was designed for them. That 2-component epoxy glue withstands all typical fuels, so it was a good find.
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Valiaikainen%20yhteiskansio/IMG_2134.jpg)
Here, finally, is the completed sender unit:
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Valiaikainen%20yhteiskansio/IMG_2142.jpg)
You WOULD NOT believe how difficult it was to get everything to fit, and sit at the correct angle. In all, building this unit took more than
ten working hours. And making it fit inside the fuel tank was even trickier. I had to modify every part of the gauge sender and grind
off material form the catch can too. It was a real big pain... But I made no short cuts, now everything is like I wanted.
It's a great help that I get to use the services of a good aluminum welder since that's something I can't do myself. Big thanks to
Raision Jäähdytin!!!
There she sits:
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Valiaikainen%20yhteiskansio/IMG_2147.jpg)
As of now, the fuel tank has been fitted to the car and next day at the garage I will make the fuel lines from the tank to the filter.
I'm even contemplating a twin filter system as on Merc diesels. You know, a "rough" filter up front and the fine filter after that.
Whatever they are called in English... What would your thoughts be on that?
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great work! :o
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Rough and fine are good words to use. Awesome build ur attention to every part of the car is great, can't wait to see it running!
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Nice craftsmanship. Another option for filters would be to use an air/particulate separator like an AirDog system. Would be handy if you are going for a really flow engine.
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Thank you so much, guys!
I am really trying to make it run this autumn, but there is still a lot to do.
Good thing is, when the fuel lines and brake pipes are fitted I can bolt the rear axle on and then I can put the car on its wheels.
Then I hope to have my manifolds and turbo so I can start with the boost pipes, oil lines and such.
It is fun, but it's also a lot of work..
Sometimes I wish I had a lower standard - I would be driving this thing already. But I can't change my personality ::)
Anyway, it's nice to see you guys keep interested! I try my best to get you guys some rolling footage before the snow comes and kills the play.
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Anyway, it's nice to see you guys keep interested! I try my best to get you guys some rolling footage before the snow comes and kills the play.
Better get busy, i am sure it won't be long before snow hits the ground in finland. can you see the north pole from your house?
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Better get busy, i am sure it won't be long before snow hits the ground in finland. can you see the north pole from your house?
Busy I am, make no mistake :)
I should still have 6 to 8 weeks to work on this before the snow... North pole - ha ha. You must have been a geography major :)
This week I have at least two full days to work on it. That should help a lot. Tires should arrive any day now and I'm only missing some little parts.
I'll get back here soon and report my progress!
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No, in school I took up space.
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I live almost as close to the North Pole as TurboJ, I get through the winter season by joyfully driving sideways with my Golf PD130 4Motion ;) Every season has it's charm, though my workshop is biting cold! :'(
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Every season indeed has its own charm, Spring is my last favorite tho, I must peel my ass off the couch from being lazy all winter and start making my yard look nice again, it's tough.
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Back at work!
Actually, I have been working on the Jetta nearly every day for the past week, but it always seems the progress is much slower than the count of hours spent working..
I still have a good feeling about this, although there is obviously very much work ahead me. At least I finally have some spare time on my hands. Or would have without
this project :)
Anyway, it was time to do the fuel lines since the sender unit was now complete:
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Valiaikainen%20yhteiskansio/Photo0140.jpg)
I was lucky the sender unit came to be the right height... If it had been too short, fixing that may have proven to be a real issue.
Replicating the original unit's sitting depth with the spring action and all was not easy.
But there it is!
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Valiaikainen%20yhteiskansio/IMG_2152.jpg)
I used similar kind of nylon line the factory uses, but 8mm inner diameter instead of the original 6.
The necessary bends were made possible by the use of a pipe bender and heat gun. It did take some testing to get it right and still I'm not
completely happy with the result. The return line has an unnecessary extra bend and it doesn't really sit right. But it has to do...
I made the fuel feed line out of white nylon pipe - it's almost transparent to help locate any leaks. And with the help of a flashlight,
all possible bubbles can easily be seen.
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Valiaikainen%20yhteiskansio/IMG_2155.jpg)
The mess in the engine compartment:
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Valiaikainen%20yhteiskansio/IMG_2186.jpg)
After I finish with the intercooler/radiators fitment project, it'll be time to do the fuel filter along with the air filter housing...
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Speaking of intercoolers and radiators, here's some parts I have gathered up for the pipework:
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Valiaikainen%20yhteiskansio/IMG_2150.jpg)
And here are the radiators themselves...
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Valiaikainen%20yhteiskansio/IMG_2207.jpg)
The first two are obvious really. The I/C will be modified a lot before it's ready, but the rest will go on the car as they are.
So why do I have four radiators? Well, the small ones are for the oil and fuel respectively.
The fuel cooler isn't huge (it doesn't need to be). It will be fitted directly to the injection pump's return line.
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Valiaikainen%20yhteiskansio/IMG_2188.jpg)
According to someone's research, in this power range the fuel cooler may be worth ~5-7 hp on a warm day.
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The venerable VR6 top mount and an Aki-made strut bar mount.
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Valiaikainen%20yhteiskansio/IMG_2185.jpg)
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The rear axle was mated to the anti-roll bar:
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Valiaikainen%20yhteiskansio/IMG_2159.jpg)
The 'basic' 25 mm H&R bar should be the wise choice - I don't want too snappy handling. The car may even see some winter use after its first years.
Maybe. I'm already thinking about a next project, and I think that one will be a full toy :)
Then it was time to learn the hard way how the brake lines should be routed.
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Valiaikainen%20yhteiskansio/IMG_2164.jpg)
...that was the wrong way as I later found out...
Apparently this works better with the axle mount:
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Valiaikainen%20yhteiskansio/IMG_2192.jpg)
I'm trying a set of Black Diamond braided steel brake hoses. I hope they stand the test of time.
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Valiaikainen%20yhteiskansio/IMG_2166.jpg)
The left side brake line was pretty tough to make fit. I also had managed to sell myself the wrong length pipe at work ::)
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Valiaikainen%20yhteiskansio/IMG_2195.jpg)
Powerflex rear axle bushings...
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Valiaikainen%20yhteiskansio/IMG_2169.jpg)
All new brake pressure regulator parts too. But now I'm giving myself a hard time for not painting the bias valve! Yes, I know, I know!
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Valiaikainen%20yhteiskansio/IMG_2175.jpg)
And there it is at last!
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Valiaikainen%20yhteiskansio/IMG_2201.jpg)
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Today I got my new tires too.
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Valiaikainen%20yhteiskansio/IMG_2225.jpg)
BTW; what are your experiences on wheel spacers?
I'm thinking I might try a set, since the Ronals' offset isn't exactly right, near though it is.
Are spacers really a safety risk? And do they stress the wheel bearings a lot more?
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Time to start fabricating the radiator supports.
I'm using zero original mounting points - the intercooler fitment necessitates that and while I'm at it, I might as well do it right.
So the plan was from the beginning to basically redo the radiator support frame completely.
Putting these parts on the car for the first time in four years!
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Valiaikainen%20yhteiskansio/IMG_2184.jpg)
The finished paint work had to be covered before the cutting could begin.
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Valiaikainen%20yhteiskansio/IMG_2210.jpg)
Next time I start a car project I will definitely do the paintwork LAST. >:(
Test fitting the intercooler.
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Valiaikainen%20yhteiskansio/IMG_2217.jpg)
The right side top mount would have been to low with the standard sheet metal. So I started to cut it down...
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Valiaikainen%20yhteiskansio/IMG_2222.jpg)
Unfortunately this heap is only the beginning of the cut-up process.
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Valiaikainen%20yhteiskansio/IMG_2226.jpg)
The first parts of the new metal work to be welded onto the frame:
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Valiaikainen%20yhteiskansio/IMG_2227.jpg)
Too bad I don't have a welding device at my disposal right now. I'll have to figure something out... For the radiator frame I'll
have to have someone do some spot welds for me tomorrow. Hopefully I can find a nice MIG welder soon!
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looking good as usual!! Can't wait top see this run, you must be getting excited now??!!
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Yes, I definitely am!
These days I just can't wait to get to the garage again and when I'm there I just wish time would stop.
Now it's all fun, which can not be said about the body repairs and such...
But this journey has been extremely educational too. I think my next project will turn out real nice.
Now I just have to find out a way to make some more money :)
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paint for last is better yes...
but with extra care all can be done!
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Yesterday I got a nice, heavy package from Aki :D
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Valiaikainen%20yhteiskansio/IMG_2243.jpg)
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Valiaikainen%20yhteiskansio/IMG_2245.jpg)
It's a Schwitzer S2A with a modified turbine housing, using the smaller T25 flange style. I don't have all the specs right here,
but the inlet and outlet are 38mm and 50mm. This should spool pretty well I imagine!
The downpipe:
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Valiaikainen%20yhteiskansio/IMG_2256.jpg)
Exhaust manifold is made out of an AAZ manifold IIRC. Collector modified and T25 flange welded on.
The EGR outlet has been reassigned to waste gate duty :)
All once again sand blasted and ceramic coated for maximum efficiency...
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Valiaikainen%20yhteiskansio/IMG_2281.jpg)
If you have read your 'Maximum Boost' you will cringe at the sight of the wastegate oulet, but it has been carefully chosen.
The priority of this manifold by far is to use the exhaust heat energy as well as possible, helping the turbo to spool up.
The waste gate would have significantly increased the collector volume if fitted to the usually preferred spot - not good
for our IDI engines. And the good thing is this wastegate location has been thoroughly tested and there is no boost creep.
Here's how the T25 flange sits on the collector:
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Valiaikainen%20yhteiskansio/IMG_2272.jpg)
And as you can see the flow path of the manifold itself is not bad at all:
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Valiaikainen%20yhteiskansio/IMG_2274.jpg)
There are also connectors for an EGT probe and an exhaust gas pressure gauge.
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Valiaikainen%20yhteiskansio/IMG_2287.jpg)
This is what I will be using for a wastegate:
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Valiaikainen%20yhteiskansio/IMG_2262.jpg)
...to be mounted something like this:
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Valiaikainen%20yhteiskansio/IMG_2295.jpg)
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The intake manifold is now better matched to my aggressive camshaft.
I don't think there are many OE VAG manifolds with shorter runners than this!
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Valiaikainen%20yhteiskansio/IMG_2307.jpg)
A nice heat shield on there:
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Valiaikainen%20yhteiskansio/IMG_2302.jpg)
I will soon test fit everything and see how I can manage the radiated heat as well as possible.
I will also be making a sturdy support system for the turbo, waste gate and downpipe.
Also a nice little plugin for a boost signal line.
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Valiaikainen%20yhteiskansio/IMG_2298.jpg)
And of course it is a twin plenum design 8)
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Valiaikainen%20yhteiskansio/IMG_2378.jpg)
The AAZ injectors have now been tested and set up. Ready to fire up then! (The injectors, not the car, just yet...)
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Valiaikainen%20yhteiskansio/IMG_2325.jpg)
But of course, I don't want them to look old and rusty!
So, bring on the hammerite!
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Valiaikainen%20yhteiskansio/IMG_2326.jpg)
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Valiaikainen%20yhteiskansio/IMG_2328.jpg)
I also got my new motor mounts and decided they won't get rusted any time soon either...
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Valiaikainen%20yhteiskansio/IMG_2329.jpg)
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Wow Janne. I love the coffee maker in Tial Waste gate photo. ;D
So the intake, is that from a D24T? Looks mighty interesting. Kinda what I'm wanting to do.
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Then it was time to continue working with the radiator support frame:
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Valiaikainen%20yhteiskansio/IMG_2317.jpg)
I already put in some steel tubing to strengthen the frame.
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Valiaikainen%20yhteiskansio/IMG_2318.jpg)
Looking at it from the front side it was looking like this:
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Valiaikainen%20yhteiskansio/IMG_2331.jpg)
After the added strength the middle section could be opened up for better air flow:
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Valiaikainen%20yhteiskansio/IMG_2333.jpg)
Oh how many holes there are to weld up!
I just hope all the necessary parts will still bolt up how they should after all the shaving.. There are always risks when you don't have complete pictures about everything.
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Valiaikainen%20yhteiskansio/IMG_2335.jpg)
Another mockup stage:
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Valiaikainen%20yhteiskansio/IMG_2338.jpg)
At this point the lower frame was still like the factory intended. The old, rusty front engine mount is only for mockup purposes!
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Valiaikainen%20yhteiskansio/IMG_2343.jpg)
OK, so I was planning to use the stock 1.6 TD radiator, but then I did some research at work and noticed it's one of the smallest radiators
for the space there is available. So I decided to switch to another unit.
I checked which suitable radiator would be the biggest one that still fit my bay, and found out that a Passat one is the best for this purpose.
The specs are Passat 3A2 TDI-110 Automatic with A/C. It's BIG :) Will post pictures later when I get the change...
Anyway, the switch of radiator meant I had to redesign the lower frame too. So let the cutting begin again!
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Valiaikainen%20yhteiskansio/Unt2362.jpg)
...like so:
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Valiaikainen%20yhteiskansio/IMG_2363.jpg)
And here you can see my logic - I made a hole in there with the exact measurements of the Passat TDI radiator.
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Valiaikainen%20yhteiskansio/IMG_2365.jpg)
The new rad is exactly 6 cm taller in height than the mk2 rad, so changes were necessary.
I still have to figure out how to do the actual radiator mounts, there are a couple of little issues with that.
Making a new bottom to the lower rad mount:
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Valiaikainen%20yhteiskansio/IMG_2367.jpg)
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Valiaikainen%20yhteiskansio/Untitled2369.jpg)
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Wow Janne. I love the coffee maker in Tial Waste gate photo. ;D
So the intake, is that from a D24T? Looks mighty interesting. Kinda what I'm wanting to do.
Heh, the Coffee maker is my wife's baby :) ( she liked your comment )
Actually, I just can't remember what engine this intake is originally. The D24T should have oval ports, should it not?
I will check when I hear from Aki again! He has so many intake donors around that I really don't remember which is
which always...
and BTW, thank you for your pics and vid you sent me! Nice stuff you got there!
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One more picture just because I love this heap of parts so much ;D
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Valiaikainen%20yhteiskansio/IMG_2376.jpg)
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Finally I could make the intercooler mounts after the rad frame project had progressed to this point.
Rubber mounts on every four corners of the I/C. I also have hump hoses for both inlet and outlet tubes,
so the I/C should be safe from vibration damage!
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Valiaikainen%20yhteiskansio/IMG_2352.jpg)
Lower mounting brackets:
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Valiaikainen%20yhteiskansio/IMG_2351.jpg)
Safely in place!
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Valiaikainen%20yhteiskansio/IMG_2357.jpg)
(on top left you can just see the modified top part of the frame that allows for the vibration insulated top mounts for both sides of the I/C)
A perfect fit!
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Valiaikainen%20yhteiskansio/IMG_2387.jpg)
Looking good from this angle too. Almost 100% of the core is in direct air flow through the grille.
I will make some aluminum air guides to perfect it, but now I'll just try to get the support frame done.
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Valiaikainen%20yhteiskansio/IMG_2385.jpg)
Then the I/C brackets had to be bended somewhat for them to double as supports for the oil cooler and the fuel cooler.
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Valiaikainen%20yhteiskansio/IMG_2388.jpg)
Upper mounting brackets for the aforementioned aux coolers:
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Valiaikainen%20yhteiskansio/IMG_2393.jpg)
So here's how the auxiliary coolers will be mounted:
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Valiaikainen%20yhteiskansio/IMG_2392.jpg)
...resulting in this:
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Valiaikainen%20yhteiskansio/IMG_2399.jpg)
I think the big radiator is not a bad move after how I have mounted the I/C and aux coolers. As a matter of fact, I think all of the cooling
air that reaches the radiator, has already gone though one of the other coolers. This is of course what I am trying to achieve - maximum
cooling effect for the I/C, oil and fuel coolers - but this will require more of the water radiator.
BUT, the Passat TDI radiator is exactly the solution I need.
I'll update more soon, meanwhile - feel free to comment!
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You might want to give a little thought to using those cooler brackets for templates. The way they are built, they have a service life of 20 minutes on a bumpy road.
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You bet I have given it thought!
Tomorrow they will be welded in place and strengthened with 3D profiles.
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Getting closer and closer to a finished car! Good work! ;D
What setup are you running on the AAZ injectors? (nozzles, opening pressures)
What size is that Tial wastegate?
And by the way, those Moccamaster coffee makers are the best! ;)
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Your build is amazing. Very inspirational. I'm currently swapping a 1.6 eco into my jetta and its not 1% as clean as yours. Super awesome build.
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Hi,
great to see progress here and even greater to see what you do and how you do it (i would love to have the same patience for detailes).
As written earlier, this is in my eyes the "overall do it right" built threat and i follow your post since nearly 4 years in a regularly manner now, long for seeing the end result.
I like your fuel catcher and have to state out, that i never have thought about that the stock fuel pipe could be a performance issue. I have had several air-leak issue over the years in different cars during full pulls in first or second gear, when the engine speed is increasing too fast, but my way to overcome was allways a small electrical feed pump directly after the tank. You have wrote that you expect performance gain from cooler fuel, due to the fuel cooler, but even if i think this is a worth instalation, because the cooler fuel will keep the pump temperature in a good range, which could be very healthfull at high revs, i did not find a physical explaination for a performance gain. I mean for sure, due to the density change the injected mass will decrease with increasing temperature, but this could be overcome with just a slightly higher injection rate in cold condition, or do you mean that shortened injection time for equal mass flow, due to decreased internal pump leakage (between high pressure and low pressure room) and higher density will bring the perfromace gain? (sorry for the way to long sentence)
Best Regards
Alleslowbuged
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I didn't take mine up that high, but I did it real similar to you. Let me tell you I had to take the core support out about 953 times, so I feel for you. With the big bumper you have more options to hide stuff too. Good job.
You would be surprised how that thin sheet metal will last on dirt and gravel roads. Mine made it from May to Dec approx 20,000 miles, and is still working the engine just ingested the precup. A bead of weld won't hurt it at all, but if that is the difference between getting it on the road or not, don't worry about it.
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I didn't take mine up that high, but I did it real similar to you. Let me tell you I had to take the core support out about 953 times, so I feel for you. With the big bumper you have more options to hide stuff too. Good job.
You would be surprised how that thin sheet metal will last on dirt and gravel roads. Mine made it from May to Dec approx 20,000 miles, and is still working the engine just ingested the precup. A bead of weld won't hurt it at all, but if that is the difference between getting it on the road or not, don't worry about it.
Thanks for all your kind words, mate!
I'm doing the frame over completely, and it's still middle way at most. I have to work in stages because I don't have a welder right now.
I hope to borrow one in the weekend. All will be so much easier.
The thing about the rad support I'm thinking about right now is that the aux coolers have very soft mounting points in the coolers themselves.
So I think they might develop stress fractures on their own bodies over time... So I will look into making some sturdy supports for them.
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Your build is amazing. Very inspirational. I'm currently swapping a 1.6 eco into my jetta and its not 1% as clean as yours. Super awesome build.
THANK you. It's so nice to get positive feedback!
Good luck on your own project!
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Hi,
great to see progress here and even greater to see what you do and how you do it (i would love to have the same patience for detailes).
As written earlier, this is in my eyes the "overall do it right" built threat and i follow your post since nearly 4 years in a regularly manner now, long for seeing the end result.
I like your fuel catcher and have to state out, that i never have thought about that the stock fuel pipe could be a performance issue. I have had several air-leak issue over the years in different cars during full pulls in first or second gear, when the engine speed is increasing too fast, but my way to overcome was allways a small electrical feed pump directly after the tank. You have wrote that you expect performance gain from cooler fuel, due to the fuel cooler, but even if i think this is a worth instalation, because the cooler fuel will keep the pump temperature in a good range, which could be very healthfull at high revs, i did not find a physical explaination for a performance gain. I mean for sure, due to the density change the injected mass will decrease with increasing temperature, but this could be overcome with just a slightly higher injection rate in cold condition, or do you mean that shortened injection time for equal mass flow, due to decreased internal pump leakage (between high pressure and low pressure room) and higher density will bring the perfromace gain? (sorry for the way to long sentence)
Best Regards
Alleslowbuged
Thank you!!
I don't actually know what are the physics behind the cooler fuel making more hp - but it does, dyno tests prove this. Will tell you if I find a straight explanation!
Keeping the pump temperatures at bay is a major plus of course!
And I hope my new fuel lines will not leak... I think I might even cover all the joints with a special glue to be absolutely certain!
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Getting closer and closer to a finished car! Good work! ;D
What setup are you running on the AAZ injectors? (nozzles, opening pressures)
What size is that Tial wastegate?
And by the way, those Moccamaster coffee makers are the best! ;)
AAZ injectors are stock twin-stage injectors, set to 150 bar opening pressure. Nozzles are stock AAZ.
These should be enough by a long way, but we'll see what goes when we get this thing to a dyno..
Will measure the TIAL W/G too - don't remember right now.
And yeah, the Moccamaster makes the wife way happy ;D
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Aki just SMSd me and told me the specs of the manifolds too.
The exhaust manifold is originally from a late model AAZ (1.9 TD IDI).
The inlet manifold is originally out of a VW LT TurboD, then cut at both ends to create a 4-cyl inlet.
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Here is the Passat TDI radiator I mentioned earlier.
In the picture it is next to a normal Golf 1.6 TD radiator.
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Valiaikainen%20yhteiskansio/IMG_2407.jpg)
The core dimensions are nice; here's a comparison between the two:
* Core area in the Passat rad is 2736 cm2 against Golf's 2160 cm2 - a 27 percent increase.
* Core volume (outer) is 9300 cm3 against the Golf's 7345 cm3 - also a 27 percent increase.
This should keep the temps in check!
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The lower rad support at this stage:
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Valiaikainen%20yhteiskansio/IMG_2400.jpg)
It'll only work as a base for air baffles.
The rad support is progressing:
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Valiaikainen%20yhteiskansio/IMG_2403.jpg)
The aux cooler supports are still not complete, but the I/C lower mounts are pretty much done:
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Valiaikainen%20yhteiskansio/IMG_2405.jpg)
Here you can see how the right hand side I/C top support just fits the newly shaped sheet metal at the top of the rad frame.
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Valiaikainen%20yhteiskansio/IMG_2416.jpg)
The angle of the aux coolers is matched to the front bumper's opening:
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Valiaikainen%20yhteiskansio/IMG_2431.jpg)
Getting closer to a finished product already!
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Valiaikainen%20yhteiskansio/IMG_2428.jpg)
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The injectors looking nice after a hammerite treatment:
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Valiaikainen%20yhteiskansio/IMG_2410.jpg)
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Slowly getting there..
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Valiaikainen%20yhteiskansio/IMG_2437.jpg)
The water radiator is going to be a tight fit despite all my efforts.
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Valiaikainen%20yhteiskansio/IMG_2440.jpg)
The top mid mount of the aux coolers is a bit of a risk. I guess I'll have to make a secondary one as well.
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Valiaikainen%20yhteiskansio/IMG_2441.jpg)
From the underneath it's all looking very ugly ::)
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Valiaikainen%20yhteiskansio/IMG_2448.jpg)
The finished article will look different - air guides will help with that.
Everything reminds me that the mk2 is not a big car. Even though I have emptied a lot of the engine bay,
it's all still pretty tight. And there's so much new stuff to be added it's not all easy.
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:o :o :o Did you play with "Erector Set" toys when you were a kid. My god, the quality your putting into this build awesome.
I cant wait any longer for this to be done. Keep up the fabulous craftsmanship.
By the way. In one of your photos, there was a Distributor Cap Insulator laying on the ground. >:( your not going "Gas" on us now are you?
Hahaha. JK.
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(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v306/Trev0rbr/14072374_l.gif)
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:o :o :o Did you play with "Erector Set" toys when you were a kid. My god, the quality your putting into this build awesome.
I cant wait any longer for this to be done. Keep up the fabulous craftsmanship.
By the way. In one of your photos, there was a Distributor Cap Insulator laying on the ground. >:( your not going "Gas" on us now are you?
Hahaha. JK.
I did love legos, I can tell you that :)
I'm very grateful for your feedback, I do appreciate it!
Tomorrow I will try to continue working on the rad support and perhaps with fitting the manifolds as well.
Last time at the garage I developed a nasty migraine attack so I've taken a few days off from working on the Jetta.
Ha, the distributor insulator luckily has nothing to do with my Jetta, I took it off my daily Felicia (poor state of which you can see on this thread as well if you're lucky!)
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Started building a decent air baffle system so the radiators all get their fair share of air flow.
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Valiaikainen%20yhteiskansio/IMG_2459.jpg)
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Valiaikainen%20yhteiskansio/IMG_2466.jpg)
I feel like I have been cutting as much paper as I have steel... Which is because I have :)
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Valiaikainen%20yhteiskansio/IMG_2464.jpg)
The ends of the lower frame spot welded in place.
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Valiaikainen%20yhteiskansio/IMG_2455.jpg)
Pardon my terrible looking welds on this and all the following pictures - I did borrow a very cheap non-gas MIG, and there are serious light issues in addition to no current setup option....
The intercooler shroud in place:
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Valiaikainen%20yhteiskansio/IMG_2478.jpg)
The ends of the shroud are made to match the vertical louvres on the grille:
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Valiaikainen%20yhteiskansio/IMG_2482.jpg)
Here you can see also the lower air baffles that are there to guide air from the aux coolers to the water radiator.
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Valiaikainen%20yhteiskansio/IMG_2486.jpg)
Then it was time to test fit the hood latch.. (thanks for your help, TheMan53!)
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Valiaikainen%20yhteiskansio/IMG_2488.jpg)
It was a close call - but for once, everything fit the first time. There's not an awful lot of extra room, mind you....
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Valiaikainen%20yhteiskansio/IMG_2491.jpg)
The water radiator was supposed to go in next, but it had to be covered first to avoid any damage during the mock-up stage:
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Valiaikainen%20yhteiskansio/IMG_2494.jpg)
I decided to use the lower support frame, well, as a lower support frame!
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Valiaikainen%20yhteiskansio/IMG_2500.jpg)
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Valiaikainen%20yhteiskansio/IMG_2504.jpg)
Fits like a glove :)
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Valiaikainen%20yhteiskansio/IMG_2506.jpg)
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The Ronals have been shod with Toyo rubber, 195/45 VR15. Can't wait to put these on and drop the car on its feet!
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Valiaikainen%20yhteiskansio/IMG_2473.jpg)
Aki sent me a custom-made billet belt pulley wheel - looking mighty good! Milled from a solid hunk of steel - no more cracked and loose rubber weights!
This also helps to balance the rotating assembly better than an old stock arrangement since there is nothing moving on this new design.
A similar wheel was also used on the legendary twin charged Vento of Aki - 80 hp of extra load on this had no ill effects on the sturdy billet wheel.
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Valiaikainen%20yhteiskansio/IMG_2476.jpg)
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Valiaikainen%20yhteiskansio/IMG_2475.jpg)
...that's a regular gasser pulley wheel there to give you and idea of the scale.
BTW, Aki told me that he might be able to make a couple more, just in case someone is interested ;)
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If you have read your 'Maximum Boost' you will cringe at the sight of the wastegate oulet, but it has been carefully chosen.
The priority of this manifold by far is to use the exhaust heat energy as well as possible, helping the turbo to spool up.
The waste gate would have significantly increased the collector volume if fitted to the usually preferred spot - not good
for our IDI engines. And the good thing is this wastegate location has been thoroughly tested and there is no boost creep.
At 30psi, the wastegate will not be open much anyway ;^p
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Since the build of the radiator frame is taking an absolute age, I thought I'd post up some pictures of the progress although there is still many an hour's work ahead of me before it's done.
It's funny how you never seem to be able to plan for the extremely long delays on your project when you're building/fabricating custom parts.
For what it's worth, making my radiator frame has, so far, taken me over 50 working hours ::)
The frame has also cost me more than just time as I was to find out when grinding some metal the week before the last.
My right eye got hit by a small steel particle that flew from my angle grinder ( yes, I was using proper safety gear ), and
it hit almost directly in the middle of the iris. The piece was then removed, of course, but my eyesight hasn't recovered
completely, and the doctor says it probably won't. Don't get me wrong, I'm not blind or anything, my right eye is just slightly
blurry now, and I'll likely be needing glasses. It's not worse than that, but it did put me down for a couple of days...
PEOPLE, ALWAYS MAKE SURE YOUR EYES ARE WELL PROTECTED !
Anyway, enough about that!
As soon as I could, I continued working on the lower radiator support:
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Valiaikainen%20yhteiskansio/IMG_2514.jpg)
The idea of this bar was to align the radiator right. It had to be precisely straight, as in here:
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Valiaikainen%20yhteiskansio/IMG_2515.jpg)
The original, angled radiator fitment would not suit me in terms of space, and it would also have made it next to impossible for me to build
a proper shroud for it.
Once the middle part of the pipe had been cut off and the mounting points reinforced somewhat, they were looking like this:
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Valiaikainen%20yhteiskansio/IMG_2553.jpg)
Here is one of the Passat rad's lower mounts mocked up on my newly made lower frame:
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Valiaikainen%20yhteiskansio/IMG_2525.jpg)
Then of course, some new upper mounts had to be made:
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Valiaikainen%20yhteiskansio/IMG_2529.jpg)
I managed to make all the new custom mounts fit the Passat rad's original plastic mounts. That will make things a whole lot easier if I ever
have to replace the radiator. It will be a direct bolt on now.
Here's the upper mount shaped and welded up. All four mounting points were made rubber-insulated for maximum safety.
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Valiaikainen%20yhteiskansio/IMG_2560.jpg)
As you can see, the top part of the rad frame was in need of serious bondo-play before paint could be applied!
Zinc coating on the lower and upper water radiator mounts:
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Valiaikainen%20yhteiskansio/IMG_2607.jpg)
(Well I ran out a little bit on the top part, but luckily it will get less wet higher up in the engine bay so normal paint should be fine)
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On one picture there you can spot the air box too. Well, the one that will be fitted is actually the first, and also the fourth edition that was planned..
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Valiaikainen%20yhteiskansio/IMG_2531.jpg)
Here you can see the original Eco-TD air box, and next to it a Passat 35i TD one. The Passat air box was to go in, but after I got my new intake manifold
and turbo, I had to re-think the routing of all the air pipework. The air box now had to be located on the right hand side of the engine compartment instead of left,
as originally was the idea.
As for the first and fourth editions - the original box is going to be used, and during the build I have had a BMC CDA system, the Passat box pictured and now, the original again...
Then, I put in some bolts to hold the airbox in place:
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Valiaikainen%20yhteiskansio/IMG_2541.jpg)
No rubber bands will be used on this build! I wonder what VW was thinking when they designed the mounting of the air box!
Like so:
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Valiaikainen%20yhteiskansio/IMG_2546.jpg)
I will be adding a side mount too, with a rubber insulator just to keep the vibration in check.
It's actually sitting almost exactly on the original spot - I found that the best location, although my new fuel filter is going to be a tight fit.
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Valiaikainen%20yhteiskansio/IMG_2537.jpg)
I will be fabbing the intake pipe out of these aluminum parts:
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Valiaikainen%20yhteiskansio/IMG_2551.jpg)
Yes there's a crack on one of them as the pipe shop tried to make a 60->70 mm adaptor. No luck there, so I ordered the custom adaptor you see next to the broken one from another shop.
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Then the work continued on the rad support, hey, what a surprise!
I was a little preoccupied with how much air flow the water radiator would be getting with nearly all of the front grilles' frontal area
being covered by the I/C and the aux coolers, so I made little scoops on each side of the aux coolers:
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Valiaikainen%20yhteiskansio/IMG_2530.jpg)
The one on the right in this picture is wider than the left, because the left (or the right actually, looking from the driver's place) has the tow hook
there to rob some of the available space.
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Valiaikainen%20yhteiskansio/IMG_2550.jpg)
It took quite a while to make the lower air baffle, because the aux coolers' openings were at different heights:
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Valiaikainen%20yhteiskansio/IMG_2574.jpg)
If you're wondering about the opening in the middle, it's there to allow for the lower rad frame to be bolted onto this - without that bolt
joint this structure would not be as strong as the original setup, which, of course, I can't have.
I suspect the comprehensive shrouding will help the water radiator do its job - even though not a huge amount of air flow is coming towards the rad,
at least very little of that flow has a change to travel past it.
Here you can see both the shrouds from behind:
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Valiaikainen%20yhteiskansio/IMG_2561.jpg)
The inner one will gather 90% of the air flow going through the grille and direct it towards the intercooler.
The outer one will try to gather as much as possible of all other air flow and direct it towards the water radiator.
There will be also be flexible rubber seals between the shrouds and the radiator cores to complete the tight channeling of air.
If this is not enough to keep the water temps in check, then there is still the possibility of cutting extra holes to the bumper - namely
where the number plate usually sits. I won't do that unless I have to, though, as I don't like how that would look.
Then it was time to start the finishing:
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Valiaikainen%20yhteiskansio/IMG_2600.jpg)
Ready for zinc-spraying:
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Valiaikainen%20yhteiskansio/IMG_2602.jpg)
Almost ready!
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Valiaikainen%20yhteiskansio/IMG_2609.jpg)
But the top part wasn't smooth enough so I had to continue with some more bondo and sanding...
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Valiaikainen%20yhteiskansio/IMG_2610.jpg)
But, at last, it's getting there. Now there's only some sanding and silicone-sealing of some gaps and seams so it will hold against rust.
And of course painting and clear coating.. But at least that's the fun part!
When that's done I'll get to modifying the intercooler end tanks and hopefully then doing the brake lines and fitting the rear axle.
Then after that, I will drop the car on its wheels and throw in the engine :D
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Oh, there's also one little tale of interest that I thought I'd share with you guys :)
The news I heard made me very excited about the potential of my build as well, even though the news
were about a different engine.
So I was chatting with Aki on the phone the other day, and he had just returned from a dyno session with a VW Polo 1.9 TDI, ALH to be exact. The exciting bit was that the ALH had made 340 horsepower on the dyno. Without nitrous.
What is even more exciting, is the fact that this Polo is a well-mannered, daily driven automobile. And, there was still some turbo sizing and software optimizing to be done. The power should, according to Aki, improve quite easily after a few more tweaks.
The last thing Aki told me that getting the 1.9 heads flow enough is no longer a problem...
Oh, and in case you were wondering, Aki did the head and the turbocharger on that engine.
Now we also know just how far a Bosch 11mm VE pump can be pushed!
If you're thinking about a 12 mm plunger head for your IDI pump, then I suggest you reconsider! :)
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I sell the Industry leading crown product in the 97% zinc cold galvanize compound...it as well as others state to be careful when covering it with a solvent based paint. If you let it cure completely it will help, but the solvent I guess retards the galvanizing action of it. Great stuff as it passes a 400 hour salt spray test...I used about 12 cans on my rust bucket, so I know after 2 winters of daily driving in the rust belt it will work. Good deal on the rest.
FWIW, next time I build an IC setup I think I will make my grill out of expanded metal and not worry about making it all fit nicely under the stock stuff. As you know taking that core support out and welding and measuring 953 times got old for me. I am sure you too.
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Oh yes, after every stage of this build I'm thinking: "Next time I'll definitely NOT do this and this the same way" Sure!
This is all practice for me, but I believe that's true to every build and you'll always do things better the next time, and then again on the next one after that..
I am having fun now, but I just hope all the little things didn't take so very long to do.
About the zinc stuff; I used it just to get some added protection. The can said it was compatible with most paint products on the market, so I don't really know.
I'm using acrylic automotive spray paint and clear coat for the finishing layers. Do you think there's a problem?
In any case, will the problem lessen the effectiveness of the zinc, or will it result in a finish with less protection than with only paint? I wouldn't think that?
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Is there a link where we can learn more about that 340 hp ALH beast?
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As usual, well done!! love to watch fabrication being carried out ( i am an engineer, so it is close to my heart).
Getting there now!
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The acryllic urathane should be ok. It is more the aresol solvent based stuff that is 70% or more solvent. I guess it eats into the zinc a bit too much and lessens its effectiveness. I did the same as you and waited several days to do more work on top of it and mine isn't rusting yet.
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Thanks, all of you!
I'm finishing the frame right now and when the spray filler has hardened, I'll start cutting up the intercooler pipes.
Then the coolers will be off to a radiator shop for pressure testing and some TIG-welding. Hopefully this will all be done soon sp I can get working with the technical parts!
As for the ALH Polo - no link yet, but I can tell you it's running a modified Schwitzer S200 turbocharger (single turbo).
Aki has been closely involved in the build for some time and has made many of the parts. I will share more information when I have some!
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Good progress, TurboJ! Looking forward to hear all about your first startup of this monster Jetta!
As for the ALH Polo - no link yet, but I can tell you it's running a modified Schwitzer S200 turbocharger (single turbo).
Aki has been closely involved in the build for some time and has made many of the parts. I will share more information when I have some!
Single turbo?!? Sounds like a lot of lag and alot of RPMs on top?
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I was wondering if you can comment on reasons for choosing this manifold http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Valiaikainen%20yhteiskansio/IMG_2298.jpg
instead of that?
(http://img153.imageshack.us/img153/8834/d24ty.jpg)
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Good progress, TurboJ! Looking forward to hear all about your first startup of this monster Jetta!
As for the ALH Polo - no link yet, but I can tell you it's running a modified Schwitzer S200 turbocharger (single turbo).
Aki has been closely involved in the build for some time and has made many of the parts. I will share more information when I have some!
Single turbo?!? Sounds like a lot of lag and alot of RPMs on top?
Sorry for not replying when you posted this...
Aki and his friend have been working on the Polo some more, and after another turbo evolution (still S200 based), power has increased still, and now with wider power band.
No 'real' dyno numbers yet after the 340 hp, but torque is apparently over 600 Nm (440 lb-ft +).
It's really interesting just how far a 11mm pump can be taken.
It's been a long road for Aki, some legendary builds and also a huge amount of challenges to overcome.
Now everything is coming together on that ALH engine. I will post info when we have some more of it.
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I was wondering if you can comment on reasons for choosing this manifold http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Valiaikainen%20yhteiskansio/IMG_2298.jpg
instead of that?
(http://img153.imageshack.us/img153/8834/d24ty.jpg)
Sorry for this delay in replying!
Do you mean why did I choose a short-runner intake instead of the one on your picture?
If so, I chose it because the SRI (short-runner intake) is better suited to my camshaft profile.
I had a 1Y -based (1.9 D N/A) long-runner intake before, but since Aki made that one, a lot of experience has
accumulated on these IDI engines, and some important information has been found regarding camshafts.
On a stock, or nearly stock camshaft profile (also on high-lift ones) a long-runner manifold seems to work best.
On a more aggressive camshaft, such as mine, an SRI works best.
The only thing I'm wondering about is if my plenum is too big - it's a 1.6 liter engine after all. The plenum has to be more than 2 liters on mine..
Here:
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Valiaikainen%20yhteiskansio/IMG_2298.jpg)
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I'll post some pictures about what I've been working on lately.
As of today I have abandoned all hope of the car running this autumn.
It could be done, but at a too high cost. I have my work, my studies and a young wife that I need to attend to, so I'm cutting back my garage hours for now.
New plan is to make it all ready in good time for next spring - should be much more relaxed that way without a great big hurry.
Anyway, as you guys might have noticed, I have been asking questions about fuel filters.
I made a new filter mount:
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Valiaikainen%20yhteiskansio/IMG_2630.jpg)
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Valiaikainen%20yhteiskansio/IMG_2634.jpg)
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Valiaikainen%20yhteiskansio/IMG_2642.jpg)
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Valiaikainen%20yhteiskansio/IMG_2711.jpg)
Too bad I'm not going to be able to use this one. Story of my life - I build all sorts of parts for the Jetta only to notice when they are ready, that they
don't work on my application. I'm going to need a really big heavy truck filter, and that's not going to fit this spot.
Luckily I already have an idea on how to make one fit.. More on this in the future!
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Too bad I'm not going to be able to use this one. Story of my life - I build all sorts of parts for the Jetta only to notice when they are ready, that they
don't work on my application. I'm going to need a really big heavy truck filter, and that's not going to fit this spot.
Luckily I already have an idea on how to make one fit.. More on this in the future!
this is the one im using-
(http://i1217.photobucket.com/albums/dd387/tinworm2/86%20VW%20Jetta/022.jpg)w
it has a flow rate of 60 gallons per hour. Could that work for your application? It doesn't really fit in the engine bay without cutting through, but its ridiculously easy to change
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Some more sanding on the rad frame:
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Valiaikainen%20yhteiskansio/IMG_2620.jpg)
Spray filler, several coats of it:
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Valiaikainen%20yhteiskansio/IMG_2623.jpg)
Meanwhile, sanding again and again...
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Valiaikainen%20yhteiskansio/IMG_2644.jpg)
Finally, proceeded to applying the primer:
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Valiaikainen%20yhteiskansio/IMG_2668.jpg)
Lower and upper rad support parts:
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Valiaikainen%20yhteiskansio/IMG_2619.jpg)
The lower part ended up like this, ready to be joined to the front cross member:
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Valiaikainen%20yhteiskansio/IMG_2680.jpg)
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JBG3, thanks for the tip!
I'll look into that.
Your filter setup looks really professional-like, good job!
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The G60 brake master cylinder and the TD booster heat shield fitted.
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Valiaikainen%20yhteiskansio/IMG_2728.jpg)
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The engine rear mount and transmission mount:
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Valiaikainen%20yhteiskansio/IMG_2672.jpg)
Rear mount is G60 spec, the transmission mount is mk3 VR6 spec.
I'm having my doubts about this G60 rear mount though. It seems really soft, you can twist the top part by quite a lot using only fingers.
Here's my new(est) water flange.
Of course I had already refurbished and painted one aluminum cyl head end flange before I realised I'm going to need an extra water temperature sender mount...
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Valiaikainen%20yhteiskansio/IMG_2654.jpg)
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The radiator frame is finally looking approximately how I wanted:
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Valiaikainen%20yhteiskansio/IMG_2758.jpg)
The I/C sits quite comfortably there:
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Valiaikainen%20yhteiskansio/IMG_2755.jpg)
Flexible rubber strips to cover most of the gaps between the air baffles and the I/C:
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Valiaikainen%20yhteiskansio/IMG_2730.jpg)
...as well as between the grille and I/C:
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Valiaikainen%20yhteiskansio/IMG_2759.jpg)
...and even between the lower scoops and the bumper:
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Valiaikainen%20yhteiskansio/IMG_2762.jpg)
I also put rubber insulating strips on the water radiator baffles, so now I've done most that I can to make air go through the radiators as effectively as possible.
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Then I was finally able to start working on the intercooler pipes.
I shortened the pipe connectors of the I/C to make room for curved inlet and outlet pipes.
The path for each pipe curve was VERY tight!
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Valiaikainen%20yhteiskansio/IMG_2746.jpg)
I had to grind down those little screw bosses on the radiator. I hope there won't be any warranty issues, then!
These are supposed to become my boost pipe set:
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Valiaikainen%20yhteiskansio/IMG_2771.jpg)
It was a surprisingly difficult job to make both pipe connections fit. This has been by far the most challenging intercooler fitment I have ever done.
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Valiaikainen%20yhteiskansio/IMG_2773.jpg)
Finally the first two bends are ready for welding. Incredible, it took like three hours and the end result is just these two little pieces ::)
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Valiaikainen%20yhteiskansio/IMG_2778.jpg)
Tomorrow morning I'll take these to a TIG welder along with the intercooler, and then I can start working on the auxiliary cooler lines and the radiator fan fitment.
The fan is not going to be easy.. I wish I could find a quick solution for it! But I'm afraid it will take a great deal of fabrication and alu welding too...
Hopefully soon there will be more to report!
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If so, I chose it because the SRI (short-runner intake) is better suited to my camshaft profile.
I had a 1Y -based (1.9 D N/A) long-runner intake before, but since Aki made that one, a lot of experience has
accumulated on these IDI engines, and some important information has been found regarding camshafts.
On a stock, or nearly stock camshaft profile (also on high-lift ones) a long-runner manifold seems to work best.
On a more aggressive camshaft, such as mine, an SRI works best.
The only thing I'm wondering about is if my plenum is too big - it's a 1.6 liter engine after all. The plenum has to be more than 2 liters on mine..
Interesting.
Id think your volume would be still relatively in proportion, as you have removed 2 cyls from it, though who knows what VW optimized it dfor or how much effort they put into it.
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My machinist has a formula worked out. Your Plenum volume should be 1/2 of your displacement. So a 2.0L engine would have a 1.0L plenum. He has developed some racing and street engines with another guy and they have found that the best all around combination is just that 1/2 of engine displacement. Less than that and you run into high rpm issues and more than that you have more lag/throttle response. I am almost done with my intake and I have just a pinch over .8L or 49cu/in. I will let you know how it works but in theory it should work fine.
TurboJ- Yours maybe fine or if it seems like you wish you had more throttle response you might want to try a touch smaller...or more displacement :D
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can you summarize the improvements on the water cooling capabilities?
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My machinist has a formula worked out. Your Plenum volume should be 1/2 of your displacement. So a 2.0L engine would have a 1.0L plenum. He has developed some racing and street engines with another guy and they have found that the best all around combination is just that 1/2 of engine displacement. Less than that and you run into high rpm issues and more than that you have more lag/throttle response. I am almost done with my intake and I have just a pinch over .8L or 49cu/in. I will let you know how it works but in theory it should work fine.
TurboJ- Yours maybe fine or if it seems like you wish you had more throttle response you might want to try a touch smaller...or more displacement :D
I sure hope it will be fine.. I'm beyond the point of no return now. The exhaust mani, turbo and all compel me to use exactly this inlet - besides I really love its overall design and how Aki has made it fit my system.. I know the general rules for plenum sizing, and that's exactly why I was wondering about this.. But I feel my special pump, small diameter boost pipes, lightened flywheel etc. should give quite good throttle response, and that should allow me to trade some of that on the inlet mani for better high revs operation. I hope this at least!
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can you summarize the improvements on the water cooling capabilities?
You mean what I have done to improve my water cooling system?
Well, here's what:
- Bigger radiator out of a Passat B4 1,9 TDI Auto with A/C
- Air baffles all around the radiator and the car's nose to keep most air from going round the rad
- Oil-to-water heat exchanger ditched and replaced by an oil-to-air cooler with a thermostat
- Cooler thermostat
- Bigger radiator fan with the option of a dual fan setup if needed
- Cooler rad fan switch with a manual override feature
...and I'm going to run Redline's Water Wetter in the coolant, and also use a leaner mixture of regular coolant for maximum heat transfer
BUT. I'm still worried about my cooling, because there's almost no air flow to the radiator except through the other three radiators...
Maybe I will drill some holes to the bumper anyway ::)
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Interesting.
Id think your volume would be still relatively in proportion, as you have removed 2 cyls from it, though who knows what VW optimized it dfor or how much effort they put into it.
Yeah, the plenum sizing is curious...
It's a VW LT 2.4 TD manifold originally, and of course the plenum with an intact LT manifold would be proportionally just as big as on my 1.6.
So, why would the factory put this big plenum SRI on a van ??
Such an intake should work best on a high-revving, high power engine rather than a work horse.
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Did some work on the intercooler today.
My trusted TIG welder had welded the inlet and outlet in place:
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Valiaikainen%20yhteiskansio/IMG_2780.jpg)
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Valiaikainen%20yhteiskansio/IMG_2781.jpg)
If you're wondering why the curves are different radius on the inlet and outlet - well - I was lucky :)
The water radiator fitment necessitated a tighter curve on the inlet, which is nice since on the inlet side it has less of an ill effect on the flow.
Hence , the smoother bend is exactly on the right side.
I then continued on the air baffles, or their final insulation to be exact:
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Valiaikainen%20yhteiskansio/IMG_2784.jpg)
There it is!
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Valiaikainen%20yhteiskansio/IMG_2788.jpg)
It was really a lot of work, a lot... To make it fit. Because really, there was absolutely no extra room on any side of the I/C. On some places
it was a question of less than a millimeter of clearance! Taking into account the flex fittings of the I/C of course..
Can you spell T_I_G_H_T ?
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Valiaikainen%20yhteiskansio/IMG_2791.jpg)
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Valiaikainen%20yhteiskansio/IMG_2792.jpg)
But believe it or not, it doesn't hit anything even when fully twisted to any possible angle on the rubber mounts. The smallest margin is the 1 mm though :)
Now I'll have to leave the I/C alone as I have to drop the engine in the bay before I can do any more work on the pipework. Tomorrow hopefully the manifolds and turbo
will go on ;)
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So, why would the factory put this big plenum SRI on a van ??
Such an intake should work best on a high-revving, high power engine rather than a work horse.
When it came to America in the Volvo 740, it was the fastest diesel car on the market, although in my experience the BMW 2.4 is really close. Maybe the BMWs just haven't got as worn out in the last 20 years.
The D24 doesn't really like being driven as a low rev motor. It's got just enough torque to loaf along on the freeway without much boost, but to do anything more, you have to drive it like a 1.6.
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can you summarize the improvements on the water cooling capabilities?
You mean what I have done to improve my water cooling system?
Well, here's what:
- Bigger radiator out of a Passat B4 1,9 TDI Auto with A/C
- Air baffles all around the radiator and the car's nose to keep most air from going round the rad
- Oil-to-water heat exchanger ditched and replaced by an oil-to-air cooler with a thermostat
- Cooler thermostat
- Bigger radiator fan with the option of a dual fan setup if needed
- Cooler rad fan switch with a manual override feature
...and I'm going to run Redline's Water Wetter in the coolant, and also use a leaner mixture of regular coolant for maximum heat transfer
BUT. I'm still worried about my cooling, because there's almost no air flow to the radiator except through the other three radiators...
Maybe I will drill some holes to the bumper anyway ::)
how much bigger is the passat tdi with a/c radiator comparing to my 1.9td passat?
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how much bigger is the passat tdi with a/c radiator comparing to my 1.9td passat?
It's actually a Passat B4 1.9 TDI Automatic with A/C radiator.
I don't know how it measures to your rad, but it's the biggest there is on the Passat's spare parts list.
It's 10% bigger than the mk2 TD heavy duty radiator.
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Spending some quality time with the engine after a while.
Test fitting the manifolds, turbo, W/G and the downpipe.
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Valiaikainen%20yhteiskansio/IMG_2801-1.jpg)
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Valiaikainen%20yhteiskansio/IMG_2806-1.jpg)
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Valiaikainen%20yhteiskansio/IMG_2829-1.jpg)
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Valiaikainen%20yhteiskansio/IMG_2886.jpg)
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Valiaikainen%20yhteiskansio/IMG_2859.jpg)
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Valiaikainen%20yhteiskansio/IMG_2862.jpg)
...then I proceeded to some cutting. Aki's old TwinCarger downpipe required a little re-aligning, so I let the angle grinder sing its song:
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Valiaikainen%20yhteiskansio/IMG_2876.jpg)
On the intake manifold Aki had already ground little notches to allow getting to the valve cover nuts more easily, but the G60 valve cover
required more space still, so I had to cut the manifold down a bit.
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee303/TurboJanne/Jetta%20II%20TDIC/Valiaikainen%20yhteiskansio/IMG_2892.jpg)
I'll make some plugs for the holes out of round pipe to allow room for the bumps in the valve cover where the middle two studs and nuts reside.
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The Allis Chalmers orange is dead sexy.
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The Allis Chalmers orange is dead sexy.
Thanks, mate :)
BTW, would you (or anyone of course) have a suggestion for the color of the intake manifold and boost pipes?
There's some black, silver and orange now in the engine compartment, and of course the bay itself is red..
Polished is right out of the question, I do not like shiny parts on an '80s car.
I have black silicone connectors for the boost pipework.
My thinking goes like, black would be cool, but maybe too stealthy - the manifold would be sort of invisible against the black cylinder head
Orange: As the valve cover is orange, adding orange parts directly next to it would be sort of tacky maybe.
Silver: would be cool but maybe a little bright.
Red: Well, no other engine/transmission part in here is red, so that wouldn't be tasteful.
Hmm...
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Possibly the color it is now (light grey) but glossy like the rest of the bits.
Nice job!
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Flat white for the parts, or maybe a light blue?
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I think a solid color on the rest of the parts is out. As you know too much orange or black next to eachother looks like to much...Although if you wanted the boost pipes and intake to match without adding red into the equation you could tiger stripe the rest orange and black. Then it would stand out even more and match completely without being too much of one color. You could do like a barber shop pole on the boost pipes of orange and black, that would be funny.
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I like grey
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v306/Trev0rbr/photo1-1.jpg)
And contrast
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v306/Trev0rbr/b34df91c.jpg)
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Hey, thank you guys for your kind words and your suggestions!
I'll have to think this one though, but there is a lot of work to be done before I can paint them.
Well, I have to make the boost pipes first, for instance :)
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I love this thread so much :o
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I love this thread so much :o
Thank you kindly!
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Whoa! Wait a sec. What kind of block heater is that? DEFA?
-
You're right, a DEFA it is.
When rebuilding the engine, we decided to leave it there (most cars sold new in Finland have block heaters)
because you never know you might be needing it at some point.
I might even drive this thing in the winter after a first couple of years protection from road salt and snow.
Luckily it doesn't take much space anyway, so I'll let it stay for now.
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Whoa! Wait a sec. What kind of block heater is that? DEFA?
May I inquire as to what a DEFA block heater is, as well as why it is so interesting?
-
Finally, I found the right button for this thread.
(http://www.madtomatoe.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/03/facebook-like-button-big.jpg)
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DEFA is the brand of block heater I have on my VW Transporter Syncro.
They are just the same as any other brand but its rated to use 220V instead of 110V.
Maybe Janne can explain why all their electrical over there is 220V.
Any ways, I'm looking for a cord for my truck.
Sending PM.
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Finally, I found the right button for this thread.
(http://www.madtomatoe.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/03/facebook-like-button-big.jpg)
LOL !
That's a big button. I feel like I should have a proportionally sized cursor to hit it :D
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DEFA is the brand of block heater I have on my VW Transporter Syncro.
They are just the same as any other brand but its rated to use 220V instead of 110V.
Maybe Janne can explain why all their electrical over there is 220V.
Any ways, I'm looking for a cord for my truck.
Sending PM.
PM sent also :)
As for the 220V, I really wouldn't know. That's a European thing, most countries here have that system.
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220 because in Europe, they want u to be absolutely certain that a wire is hot when you touch it.
-
Here in the UK we run 240 or 400v ( single or 3 phase) we must like it sizzling then!!
-
DEFA is the brand of block heater I have on my VW Transporter Syncro.
They are just the same as any other brand but its rated to use 220V instead of 110V.
Maybe Janne can explain why all their electrical over there is 220V.
Any ways, I'm looking for a cord for my truck.
Sending PM.
You know that if you run a 220 heater on 110 it will barely get warm?
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Here in the UK we run 240 or 400v ( single or 3 phase) we must like it sizzling then!!
Hi voltage is better. Lower loss and the wire gauge can be smaller to carry the same current.
-
220 may work better, but here it is more important the idiots who stick their fingers in the light bulb sockets survive to breed.
Ameirca **** yeah!!!!
You know that if you run a 220 heater on 110 it will barely get warm?
If he's got a transporter, there is a fair chance of it having Euro accesories.
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DEFA is the brand of block heater I have on my VW Transporter Syncro.
They are just the same as any other brand but its rated to use 220V instead of 110V.
Maybe Janne can explain why all their electrical over there is 220V.
Any ways, I'm looking for a cord for my truck.
Sending PM.
You know that if you run a 220 heater on 110 it will barely get warm?
i doubt hes gonna plug it into 110v..
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Finally, I found the right button for this thread.
(http://www.madtomatoe.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/03/facebook-like-button-big.jpg)
LOL !
That's a big button. I feel like I should have a proportionally sized cursor to hit it :D
Well at least you're not like me and had an urge to punch the big 'Like' button like it's an arcade game! The 90's gave me weird gamer tics.
Hi voltage is better. Lower loss and the wire gauge can be smaller to carry the same current.
I understand the heater now, thanks all for the answer to that question. Sure wish we had that kind of output in the states. Maybe then our government-mandated CFL house bulbs would take less than 5 minutes to reach full luminosity. :P
OT, good luck on your power goal, and I hope your experimental plenum serves you adequately!
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Spend few hours to read the thread ... its amazing how much work and money you pun in your car. Good luck and hope to see dyno soon. Also interested in head studs and crank plate cad ... i am from Bulgaria, and for me will be alot better to have this part cutted localy if i have the drawings. And about the studs, what steel are they made from? Subscribed!
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PM sent, finally. I haven't been around for some days..
Thank you so much for your interest!
I hope to continue the work soon, I have been stranded home with a big cold for over two weeks now,
so no progress just yet.
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Hi voltage is better. Lower loss and the wire gauge can be smaller to carry the same current.
sorry to be a pedant - but what you mean is the gauge of the wire can be smaller to carry the same power :)
This thread is great. Grey compressor housing is horn.
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Hi voltage is better. Lower loss and the wire gauge can be smaller to carry the same current.
sorry to be a pedant - but what you mean is the gauge of the wire can be smaller to carry the same power :)
This thread is great. Grey compressor housing is horn.
Gauge is the size (cross sectional area) of the wire. Higher voltage needs a smaller gauge wire to carry the same load.
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DEFA is the brand of block heater I have on my VW Transporter Syncro.
They are just the same as any other brand but its rated to use 220V instead of 110V.
Maybe Janne can explain why all their electrical over there is 220V.
Any ways, I'm looking for a cord for my truck.
Sending PM.
You know that if you run a 220 heater on 110 it will barely get warm?
i doubt hes gonna plug it into 110v..
He's in the USA AFAIK. Is he moving it to Europe.
-
Hi,
any news, would love to hear something new from your fabulous build.
Best Reagrds
Alleslowbuged
-
some news here?
-
hhhhhhhhhhheeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeellllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllloooooooooooooooooooooooooo
-
hhhhhhhhhhheeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeellllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllloooooooooooooooooooooooooo
im on your team.
did you ever get the pm i sent you ages ago?
-
Hello guys...!
I have not updated this thread for a while, but I'm still alive!
There also seem to be issues with the pictures on this thread not showing up from time to time - I will try to fix this when I get a chance.
I have been very busy with my life and I have had to cease working on the Jetta for some time. Plan is to continue the build after this winter. I hope I will
find the time, the money and the energy to finish the Jetta before 2014 ends. But no promises, that's what I've learned, my deadlines never work on this
project, so no more deadlines!
I apologize also for not replying to PM's you guys have been sending me. I needed a total vacation from cars a while back, and didn't even log in on any
car forums. When I get to continue this build, I hope to be more active on here as well, so likely then I will be easier for you guys to reach.
BTW, if there are any new, good threads about fast diesel VAG builds that you think I should see, please let me know! Such things could help me get
my motivation up in time for the spring ;)
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Good to hear all is well Janne :) I know all about sliding deadlines...
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Hi,
very nice to hear that you are still here and that the car still exist. Still my favorite built in the hole www and i realy hope to see the car running and also to get some numbers.
Best Regards
Alleslowbuged
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Hi,
is the car still living?
I would still really love to see some progress on this built. I have stoped working on my golf for nearly 1,5 year and started it today for the first time since. Pherhaps this is a little motivation for you ;)
Best Regards
Alleslowbuged
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Hello all!
I have been having problems for the last two years; health and finances are giving me a hard time and I'm unfortunately at the point of no return with this project.
It is sad and I know many of you will be disappointed - but I am simply unable to continue working on the Jetta and thus the project will have to be sold.
I still have 95% of all the stuff you have seen on this topic - so in case you are interested in some of them, please send me PM and we can hopefully find a new home
for the goodies. Don't worry, international shipping is not a problem. If you're looking for some rare Mk2 parts in general, you can ask if have have part X or Y, on this topic.
Things don't always work out how we'd like them :( But maybe you can help me so all this stuff won't just be sitting idle for all eternity?
Best regards
Janne
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Just plesse throw the AKI-76 head studs in the bin in stead of ripping someone off, as they are not worth a single dime....
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Understand your frustration Alcaid...
To all others Turbo J was a very good member and even though the studs could be in question, the rest of his parts are 100% legit. I have bought from him and YRMV but he was straight up and a good seller.
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Explanation from my side. I've got nothing against Janne and have bought good parts from him before as well. But he was marketing these studs on this forum and he had a set for this engine. They know in Finland as well that these studs are crap but no one ever told about it and hoped the problem would dissappear. I know of at least 16 engines that has failed with these studs, some even with warped block or heads as a result... Janne has lots of great parts to sell and I am sorry that his situation is what it is, just make sure those studs don't kill another engine.