The Jetta did come with a TDI and IDI in 97.The passat came with the TDI in 96.The golf got the tdi in 99-2000 and the beetle got it in 98.
The ALH tdi block still has the same motor mounting holes as the earlier engines.No custom mounts needed it bolts right in.
the ALH shares the older AAZ and ME/MF block? Score! So now I gotta find me an ALH ;) when did the switch from ALH to the next one?
The Jetta did come with a TDI and IDI in 97.The passat came with the TDI in 96.The golf got the tdi in 99-2000 and the beetle got it in 98.
The ALH tdi block still has the same motor mounting holes as the earlier engines.No custom mounts needed it bolts right in.
The VNT turbo will likely interfere with the rear mount, IIRC.
the ALH shares the older AAZ and ME/MF block? Score! So now I gotta find me an ALH ;) when did the switch from ALH to the next one?No the AHU/1Z is the same as the AAZ /ME/MF block, which means a simple slip in and out with all the mounts just bolting up. The ALH will need to be modified somewhat, although i don't how much is involved as i don't care as i wouldn't want to use one of those later engines anyways...
Ohh ok.. and the AHU/1Z came in what years?
The Jetta did come with a TDI and IDI in 97.The passat came with the TDI in 96.The golf got the tdi in 99-2000 and the beetle got it in 98.
The ALH tdi block still has the same motor mounting holes as the earlier engines.No custom mounts needed it bolts right in.
The VNT turbo will likely interfere with the rear mount, IIRC.
MK3 TDIs did not have a VNT though. They basically have an upside down K03
MK3 TDIs did not have a VNT though. They basically have an upside down K03
ALH was the first to get a VNT (mk4)
was in 2000 or 2001 wasnt it?
Do they have a front cross member that gets right out of the way like the mk2?
What is the stock boost setting of a 1998 AHU? it seems to pull pretty hard.
Ok, so after amounting all the work this is at once I will be doing it in steps I think...
To start I will be taking a VERY LARGE part of the donor car, damn near everything but the kitchen sink ;)
I'm gonna take;
- Engine & Transmission
- Intercooler & Piping
- Cable Shifter & Cables
- Hydro Clutch Assembly
- Entire Car Wiring Harness (labeled before dissasembly)
- Mk3 Cluster
- Mk3 complete dash (possible future project)
- A/C Condenser & Compressor (another possible future project)
- Central Locking System/Anti-theft.. (this I want to incorporate in to the 81.. that would be too cool)
This is all I can think of for right now.. Can you think of anything else I may want to keep??
Also my buddy Catlin brought up a good point to me (this is why I wanna keep the Central Locking / Anti-theft), which was that the ECU needs to be disarmed to start the engine.. and this disarm action happens when the power locks or key is used to physically hit the micro switch in the door to disarm the alarm.. Its a vacuum system isn't it? Wouldn't be too hard to run the stuff for that to work would it? Probably just have the one switch in the drivers door... What are your thoughts here please!!
So yeah I figure I will start off easy easy easy.. by starting with the adaptation of the TDI and Wiring. Swap motors and get the TDI mounted up to the 020 (and make sure to launch it easy ;)). And then get the wiring swapped over to CE2 and all that in order, while addressing all the body work and assorted fun stuff at the same time. For a start on my swap.. I will be keeping the 02A/Cable/Hydro setup for another day.. I feel as trying to do it all at once will have this car off the road for a very very long time.. I don't think my 1.7 I will be driving has enough life left in her to last that long :P
I think it will be a good start.. who knows I might just stay with the 020 and keep it stock hp/tq #'s... (:P Yeahh Riight)
That and wheel hop is VERY bad. Usually on the 3rd hop the CV will start making appearances :DOk, so after amounting all the work this is at once I will be doing it in steps I think...
To start I will be taking a VERY LARGE part of the donor car, damn near everything but the kitchen sink ;)
I'm gonna take;
- Engine & Transmission
- Intercooler & Piping
- Cable Shifter & Cables
- Hydro Clutch Assembly
- Entire Car Wiring Harness (labeled before dissasembly)
- Mk3 Cluster
- Mk3 complete dash (possible future project)
- A/C Condenser & Compressor (another possible future project)
- Central Locking System/Anti-theft.. (this I want to incorporate in to the 81.. that would be too cool)
This is all I can think of for right now.. Can you think of anything else I may want to keep??
Also my buddy Catlin brought up a good point to me (this is why I wanna keep the Central Locking / Anti-theft), which was that the ECU needs to be disarmed to start the engine.. and this disarm action happens when the power locks or key is used to physically hit the micro switch in the door to disarm the alarm.. Its a vacuum system isn't it? Wouldn't be too hard to run the stuff for that to work would it? Probably just have the one switch in the drivers door... What are your thoughts here please!!
So yeah I figure I will start off easy easy easy.. by starting with the adaptation of the TDI and Wiring. Swap motors and get the TDI mounted up to the 020 (and make sure to launch it easy ;)). And then get the wiring swapped over to CE2 and all that in order, while addressing all the body work and assorted fun stuff at the same time. For a start on my swap.. I will be keeping the 02A/Cable/Hydro setup for another day.. I feel as trying to do it all at once will have this car off the road for a very very long time.. I don't think my 1.7 I will be driving has enough life left in her to last that long :P
I think it will be a good start.. who knows I might just stay with the 020 and keep it stock hp/tq #'s... (:P Yeahh Riight)
does it matter if your trans has 5 hp or 500 hp going to it if you cant hook it up good and hard? you need lots of traction, and some weight to break it..
if you cant load it very hard, and in a mk1, you cant, then you wont break. a light car is way easier on 020 trannies. the power isnt what breaks them, the car being stopped, and the engine all revved up is what does it. drop hammer. parts fly.
not so in a light car tho. i think an 020 trans behind a TDI would be fine in such a light car. remember this, it weighs like half that of a overweight mk3..
Next question is how do i disconnect this monster!? It looks as though it is a connector for most of the front of the engines electrical sources, a very good idea in my mind, one easy connector.. whole engine should be this way. One connector takes the engine off the harness ;). I tried pulling, and twisting, I gave up for fear of busting it.
(http://i299.photobucket.com/albums/mm307/J_holubek/TDI/IMG00044-20100902-1817.jpg)
JUST FOR YOU BUDDY :-*
Jeremys how to (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oEjM5vOZC_s#)
Is it a little purple plug that is beneath (or above) the cigarette lighter?
I think this will be beneficial to keep eh? lol
JUST FOR YOU BUDDY :-*
Jeremys how to (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oEjM5vOZC_s#)
That does not sound right to me. The flanges don't interchange from 02O to 02A or the other way.
I'm running an 02J trans with 100mm TDI,2.0L gas car trans flanges that bolt in with a single bolt. The 02A all have a C-clip for attachment.
I'm also using 100mm Scirocco 16V axles and 100mm 16V spindles/wheel bearing housings. Sence it is still MK1 chassis.
Catlin, frigg off lol. You don't finish anything lol. :-*
I will start a thread on TDIclub, duno why I haven't yet.. and I will see if any of them will be so kind as to scan a few pages of their Bentley for me ;) I only need the back of the fusebox really.
Catlin, I think your was different because you swapped motors? I mean I have all the stock wiring and everything native to this TDI motor and cluster.. just out of the vehicle. I'm gonna ask about it in your CS thread if you don't mind lol.
Yeah the odo and clock light up, so the cluster is getting a power.. But it never sees the key being turned on.
splicing in tails/headlights/heater is far simpler then what your doing...
What Could Possibly Go Wrong? ;)
will 10.9 say 10.9 on the head?
JUST FOR YOU BUDDY :-*
Jeremys how to (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oEjM5vOZC_s#)
Tyler, I dunno if I can take your word on turbo's ;)
Tyler, I dunno if I can take your word on turbo's ;)
Hmm, does anyone know the maximum turbine speed of a k03? And how much air must pass through it for it to spin said speed?
as far as I know there is no difference between the 8v and 16 PP other than maybe clamp force and the pins. I was told that the mexican pp are 2 pin and others are 1 pin... I was also told the MK3 are 1 pin and the rest are 2 pin. Just make sure that you know which pin you have and you will be fine. Also, the clutch must be the small spline IIRC it is 13/16" not 7/8" as the larger was the 16v spline. You will be fine. I have a clutchnet setup just like you are asking for, but not for sale.
Um, the motor mount looks a lot like the trans mount insert. Could be wrong though.
It is a trans mount.. lol (its one of the four of what I call motor mounts lol)
Also, FYI, if you didn't know, you can use the water pump gasket from a 2.0L gas water pump that is metal with rubber. I use them every time instead of the paper one. Makes a better seal too.
Didn't know that, thank-you very much for the insight. Will be picking one up.
and making the shift linkage miss the turbo...
Covered. What do you think I am, an amateur.. lol
You changed directions a lot.
There is obviously a lot of info and dialogue missing here.
Do you have links to other threads on other sites you exercised along the way about the ins and outs ?
I've got some questions too .... ;)
Question #1 -- open to all comers in the know.
You said your dial gauge adapter wouldn't fit the TDI pump head.
Can a faktry stock AHU TDI (98 Jetta) Inj Pump be fine tuned/timed with a dial indicator - just needing a different adapter than what we use on IDI ?
As in - set/verify Injection Timing mechanically - versus VagCom.
(and any specs on thread size needed for TDI hole)
Yes the AHU pump CAN be tuned in the exact fashion as we do on our IDI.. But I see no reason to, as the computer can change all the timing values at any given time by itself. All the parts are there for the gauge to physically follow the plunger in its movement. However upon thinking about it, it almost seems to me that the AHU pumps may be set initially by dial gauge.. and then fine tuned with VagCom, else why would they have the ability to put a gauge in the end of them right?
the rover pump resolves 1-2k pumps for tdi-m... 2-300ish.. almost direct fit and such..
Seems like all M.Tdi users and abusers would need to do dial gauge timing.
Could you find out the spec for 1Z/AHU from tdiclub.com ?
If someone is a serious potential purchaser, then PM.
Next issue is the pre-set tensioner was overset by last technician.
Wondering if the computer will be able to re-compensate enough on its own when i put the new belt and new tensioner with correct setting.
I'm guessing they didn't know about the pre-set marks alignment on the tensioner ..... ? I'll post a pic after while.
Best way IMO to find a proper spec is to use a dyno repeatedly and find where the setting where power peaks. One could probably do a decent job of it using a smart phone and dyno app.
I found I had to set my mtdi 1.2mm to 1.4mm to get it to run right. I had originally set it to .9mm and I could barely get it started and would smoke like crazy when running. I did most of my adjusting by feel and how it sounded. The bigger the pump head and the bigger the injectors the more sensitive it got to timing. Just the slightest change would make all the difference.
.7mm would be a good spec for an e-tdi but not enough static advance for a mtdi.
On another note, the end caps on the pump head are interchangeable so you can swap a cap from a 9mm pump head to your tdi head and check your timing.
8v, that ABS will melt at stock boost pressure. I have seen it firsthand. The stock pipes are not the type ABS you get in the plumbing section at home depot.
BVZ did you check that tensioner with the cam sprocket loose on the cam?
8v, the ABS probably won't self-destruct dramatically but rather gradually deform and your clamps will keep getting loose and the ends pop off. Get the right stuff - silicone couplers and aluminum tubing and install the intercooler. Bead the connections. It's worth the $150 in parts to avoid the issues.
8V, don't ignore the bit I said about removing the cold start advance piston cover. It will leave you stranded.
ac or alt bracket is behind that to be a shim... trust me on this... you need to do something.. it will vibrate and BREAK the mount, bolts or block.. you need to fill that gap...
makes it hard to read when all the words are too close together...
but it flooowwwsss lol
ive seen what happens when the ac unit on a mk1 gassers start to pop bolt heads.. why i asked on the shim... :D it needs/requires something there to prevent the mount from flexing.. gotta be solid.. else that bolt head will pop off and fall into the timming belt..
Yes there is more advance with the tdi spring and cover. The advance curve is also different.
if you need a scrap tdi pump.. i gots one.. all i know on it is it did not make fuel.. i did steal the injector line valves though.. no idea what shipping to canada is.. but id donate to ya for shipping costs if you interested..
I read in my Bosch manual
I suggest you use the tdi specific ones since you have them.
The shorter 1.6 valves are what fit the AHU lines (or at least they fit mine...). The TDI delivery valves are different. They have an added check valve in them. I've personally used both 1.6 delivery valves and AHU delivery valves and have not been able to discern a difference in performance.
Ty Ty
8V - did you jump another accel lever spline yet? :)
I'd definitely keep them around and look into grinding a couple sets, for possible increased performance. Its an excellent mod used all the time on inline pumps.
Did you modify the internal throttle lever? Just wondering as you mentioned you didn't have a welder. Good job on the swap!
There are a couple limiting factors to some of the 1.6TD bits. The accelerator lever part that attaches to the governor spring capsule has a short offset and limits the total pull of the accelerator lever. Also, the fulcrum of the control collar lever assembly is closer to the collar, again limiting the max fuel. Anyway, those parts being what they are there are still things you can do. First step would be to jumper the accelerator lever to shaft orientation one spline so that the shaft goes clockwise and the lever goes anti-clockwise. Then readjust the max fuel and idle screws. That should give you a better idle setting and allow you to seriously increase the max fuel. Jumping another spline relaxes the idle spring and allows it to be adjusted again. There is way more fueling adjustment in the max fuel screw than in the idle screw. When you run out of idle, jump a spline for more adjustment, then adjust the max fuel for more fuel. Give it a try. It works. If it doesn't do what you want you can always put it back.
Ahh yes, shimming the governor. I have heard this referenced in my travels. Care to explain a little further if you posses the knowledge? Thanks man.I wouldn't worry about shimming the governor until you get your modified throttle lever.
It looked as though the coolant sensors would swap over.. I may try that. I only did not want too, lose coolant as it is in a tricky spot. Bottom side of that neck. Genius place.. lol Why not on top?!
Don't suppose you have any knowledge on the rest of the AHU electricals?? I left that big plug on the engine for now, and it is still hooked up to the sensors, glow plugs, and what not. Does anyone know which of those pins are the two glow plug pins?
ALSO, I tried doing this today after I put 410's fuel screw in. And it would seem that doing it the way Andrew stated seems to reduce power, yet I turned the max fuel screw in more.. ? It makes no sense.
ALSO, I tried doing this today after I put 410's fuel screw in. And it would seem that doing it the way Andrew stated seems to reduce power, yet I turned the max fuel screw in more.. ? It makes no sense.
Each time you jumper a spline to get more idle adjustment you need to screw the max fuel in a lot to compensate. If you don't screw the max fuel in a bunch, then it will indeed reduce power.
LAdies and probably just gentleman, I need info on shimming the governor assembly.
I have the pump (1.9 aaz) tore down and ready for assembly, so I figured I could do the shimmed governor while I am in there. Not the shimming of the springed governor cage, I already know all about that. ;).
I hope you didn't grind too much. The head seal uses that pump surface but I'm not sure exactly where it sits.
LAdies and probably just gentleman, I need info on shimming the governor assembly.
I have the pump (1.9 aaz) tore down and ready for assembly, so I figured I could do the shimmed governor while I am in there. Not the shimming of the springed governor cage, I already know all about that. ;).
the author of "HOW TO PROPERLY MOD YOUR GOVERNOR" needs advice on shimming his governor? wtf?
makes sense.
would this lever mod only be a must do on M-tdi or IDI can also benefit from this?
and what about removing the side spring(the bigger or smaller or both?) that goes on the lid?how would the idle be controled?
i had a 1.6 pump that had the spring on the governor spring assembly to control idle,but the 1.9 i have doesent have this spring...
sorry to some sort of highjacking lol
Also removing the top lid spring will make it act just as it always did. as that is how the early pumps did it. the one without the idle bump on the cold start lever.This only works when there is an idle spring on the governor. I always use 1.6 tops so this is never an issue.
N/A shorter ???
maybe because N/A dont have the LDA shafts?
Try backing the max fuel screw waaaay out.
What about that other part that you have to access from the gear side of the pump? The nut that isn't painted gold on your pump right behind the gear. I thought that helped control the gov. some?
8v...I think you maybe a bit north for the stars and bars. I lol'ed when I saw that as I have people that have said the same to me and I am in Ohio.
The adjustment at the front of the pump is not related to fueling. It only affects timing under load. Which might seem strange that it moves the shaft that supports the governor.
Libby, If I have an early 82 or late 81 IP does it have that hole? I really don't remember it when I took my pump apart about a year or more ago.
Being that it is just under the cover I suppose I could get to it with less trouble than more but won't do that if there isn't one in the first place.
(http://i299.photobucket.com/albums/mm307/J_holubek/84%20Jetta/2012-04-24181435.jpg)
So I finally made myself a pressure gauge and threaded out bolt to test the pressures inside of my pumps :)
(http://i299.photobucket.com/albums/mm307/J_holubek/84%20Jetta/20120801_233505.jpg)
(http://i299.photobucket.com/albums/mm307/J_holubek/84%20Jetta/20120801_232052.jpg)
However it is a wee bit low, WAY LOW on pressure inside of the pump. This video shows my pump idling on pure 2 stroke motor oil and no electric pusher pump at 10-12psi. I had 17-19psi on diesel with my electric pusher pump. Tapped the regulator WAY in and had absolutely no pressure change at all. I am not running the front AAZ solenoid so I do not know where the pressure is bleeding off to? or if it is just simply really worn in the vane pump?
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_wzm_VIJxUA
i have a question, couldn't you have switched pump bodies since you took it all apart anyway and then you could have timed it very easily?
<----sent him pm to fix his info... i used the stock 98 jetta pully for ahu?? dont feel like trying to figure out which one.. we call it a 1z.. :P
had it modded to work as later alh? mk4 style requires shimming the pump towards the tranny, machining the face off it to clear the cover and still need to get the later hub put on in proper place... ohhh also spend the coin to buy hub/sprocket too
my modded pully was 100bux out the door... simple in design, still used the key way... no need to worry bout shimming... and the cover fits no issue.. also when cover off it looks tits.. like some crappy ricer with engine add ons.. mmmmmm allen bolts in to pully..... mmmmmm race ready...
I don't understand your post.
And???
Sounds like the accelerator shaft to lever orientation is wrong. Go a couple notches clockwise with the shaft ccw with the lever.
After you've done this routine on a few pumps it becomes easy and natural.
If I can get the good idle and not a ton of hang (like I have now) it doesn't feel like its got any balls..
I don't want to sound like a broken record, but here goes. The following is EXACTLY what you need to do to adjust it.
1. Get it to idle well.
2. If it is gutless at that point, then turn in the max fuel and turn out the idle to bring it back to the same point.
3. If you run out of idle adjustment before you get to a decent power setting, then jumper the shaft to lever orientation so that the shaft moves CW and the lever moves CCW one spline. When you jumper that spline it will initially run like crap. You will then need to turn up the idle to get back to a decent idle setting and it will give you more room in the idle adjustment. You will also have to turn up the max fuel a bunch to get it reasonable, but you end up with A LOT more max fuel adjustment and yet still are able to get an idle setting.
What step is giving difficulty?
Now get an intercooler on there and a turbine that you can at least fit your thumb into and you'll experience some real power. :P 8)
Libby that is funny! Get a bigger compressor JeromeNow get an intercooler on there and a turbine that you can at least fit your thumb into and you'll experience some real power. :P 8)
I have a full T3 setup as one of my next steps.. ;) Intercooler and my .216's are next for sure. Then probably an 02A.. Lmao
Does size really matter?
put a piece of thin plywood in front of the radiator.
Fortunately, GeeBee has money for perfection. ;)
I will very easily make up my own system that will work for what is needed. Each plug is like 9 amps, so a 40 amp automotive relay should have no problems with that load.
Lucas, The hell you need heat for in holmes county?? LoL.
Yeah I have been low of 28 and high of 37 for the last couple days. The rest of the week it is supposed to warm up to 45. But pretty much from Dec - Feb it is highs in the high 20s and lows wherever. On colder years it will get down further. 3 years ago in Jan. we had a high of -5 and low of -22...this is all in F...which stands for Fing cold.
Obviously it isn't winnepeg but it can get cold.
Lucas you want a new neighbour?? Those temps are my favourite!!!
Looks like cavitation to me.I wouldn't be surprised if this is caused by your delivery valves. IDI delivery valves have a completely different design then DI delivery valves.
It's not from the delivery valves. The TDI delivery valves are a different design but there are a massive number of DI engines using the earlier style of delivery valve. I've used them for a long time (a couple years) in my mTDI without any issues and have even swapped between the 1.6 delivery valves and the TDI ones and after making a little max fuel adjustment cannot notice any performance difference whatsoever.
What does the seat look like now in the head? Is it also worn just as bad? That might be the reason why the second plunger no longer works. Have you checked the voltage at the stop solenoid when running and when you shut it off?
yea i can reply...... think how it works... gotta be metal... ive never seen one with rubber/plastic... oil pumps work metal on metal... all it does is restrict flow till dies..
LOL! Anyone doubting the rubber-ness needs to pull their stop solenoid plunger, scratch the end of it with a utility blade and post up a pic of the shiny metal... ;)
The air is not escaping in to the cabin via that side port, it is foam sealed. The side cold air vents seal perfectly, and their respective tubes and joints also do not leak. As far as I know all air is passing through the heater core, both of the two tubes that go through the fire-wall are close enough to the same temp. And that is about the same temp as the front coolant neck as well.Have you tried backing out the max fuel screw a full turn or two and then readjusting the idle? I would also go to a 195 thermostat.
I have not had the heater core out, but two winters ago when it was a 1.7 EN it had glass melting heat.
Thermostat works as it should. It is a 180F thermo and you can see it open ;) I have a mechanical coolant gauge, and WHEN it gets to operating temp it will sit at 180F all day.. Unless I am hauling ass up a hill.. I could push ~220f in the summer.
JEAN, I want to wire up the glow plugs in the coolant neck.. but I cannot get a stable idle to do so. Alternator load takes the idle down so that it either hunts hard for an idle, or chugs like 400rpm. (Never dies though)
Have you tried backing out the max fuel screw a full turn or two and then readjusting the idle? I would also go to a 195 thermostat.
I believe I read that you deleted the egr and cooler. From what I have read these two help quite a bit with the initial warm up.
The egr dumps warm/hot air into the intake, and the egr cooler transfers heat to the coolant.
Here's a link where Malone explains it a little better.
http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=305248
Reading Malone's I had no idea it played that big a part in everything.. Crap now I am pissed it broke.I wish I had read that as well before I deleted my egr, but I'm going to reinstall mine as I plan to get a tune from him along with the dynamic egr.
Since you went m-tdi would you even have any egr function?
Almost blew the o'l girl up tonight!! Showing off for some Cavalier's and lifted trucks at the local Timmies lol.thats how my other MTDI goes when i give it to much gass ,pulls down on 2 , i still have not got to the bottom of this yet
Lets just say I clearly had the best burnout and subsequent launch ;)
HOWEVER! When I let off there was popping and the exhaust sounded like I was missing on a cylinder or two.. :o ??? sounded like she was gonna stall. However a feather of the throttle and two more seconds of running and it smoothed right out and ran fine.
Scared me let me tell you, thought I popped the k03 for sure! lmao
thats how my other MTDI goes when i give it to much gass ,pulls down on 2 , i still have not got to the bottom of this yet
Maybe more fuel than the vehicle can successfully combust? Fuel/Air mixture Waaaaay too rich ?
mine pulls till it no longer revs... never got a miss with it... but i got double valve springs.... vs stock single... floating a valve would do that... lifter over pumps.. then gotta pump back down.. holds the valve off the seat...
mine pulls till it no longer revs... never got a miss with it... but i got double valve springs.... vs stock single... floating a valve would do that... lifter over pumps.. then gotta pump back down.. holds the valve off the seat...
Stock filters are somewhere between 10 and 15 right?
...hey wait.. my pressure tester out bolt is not the one used while destroying plungers....
On a side note, I serviced most of the electrical switches in my car. Door jamb light switches, cabin light, defrost, headlight, and 4-way. Cleaned up and slathered with die-electric. All electrical components in working order.
now that it runs, start looking for replacement 020 trannies.. that TDI will kill one in short order.. guarantee it.
maybe not.. idk.. we will see whos right by next year this time!
I was thinking covering the rad with cardboard might cause it to overheat
Also it is worth noting snakemaster and myself have DI engines, which are roughly 15% more efficient than your 1.6. Thus 15% less waste heat in to the coolant.. And less heat in the cabin.
I advanced it more while running, to only get MORE blueish smoke while running and no more noticeable clatter.. Why is this pump and engine combo not acting like any other diesel I have had my hands on? More blue smoke, as though I were retarding timing.. with a rougher idle. So I backed it down until I had what felt like the best sounding idle.
I also have my idle raised a fair amount in my Rabbit to alleviate the vibration.
btw, Chris.. that was the most understandable post to date ;D lol
btw, Chris.. that was the most understandable post to date ;D lol
I have a chirp at idle, that if I grab the serp belt tensioner arm with vice grips while running and remove the smallest amount of pressure.. it stops chirping? The tensioner pulley was replaced within the last year..
let me know if u cant get the american stuff up there.
:D
I have a chirp at idle, that if I grab the serp belt tensioner arm with vice grips while running and remove the smallest amount of pressure.. it stops chirping? The tensioner pulley was replaced within the last year..
mine did that, but then i put american bacon grease on the belt+tensioner and problem solved. let me know if u cant get the american stuff up there.
Decided on a manifold yet?
jeremy u shold sell me your 88 for 850$ to fund your new turbo.
what about the coupe. and whats she need 2 of the same thing for haha.
great thread, had fun reading it. I was a little dissapointed you didnt go full electric, as it would have been a more helpful read for me as that is what i am in the middle of.
where did you learn all the pump stuff? i came across this thread searching for pump DIY's on how to upgrade my 10mm pump.
Copy cat
Specifications - The oil specified for use in the Volkswagen TDi for current models meets the "API Service CG-4" rating. This mark means that the oil has been tested for use in Diesel (C = compression ignition) engines to meet the requirements of a test level called "G" in a 4-stroke engine. The oil may also have been tested for use engines fueled by gasoline, methanol, propane, or other fuels ignited by a spark plug (S = spark ignition). The "S" ratings (SG, SH, SJ, etc.) have no bearing on the suitability of the oil to protect a Diesel fueled engine from the special demands imposed by the higher compression ratios and the tendency for all diesel engines to place soot in the oil.
Since there is little difference internally between the earlier and later engines, it is only prudent to use oil meeting the latest standards, even in the earlier models. The latest standard is CH-4, and the one previous to that is CG-4. Many oils which have CG-4 printed on the packaging actually meet CH-4, but due to the time taken to use up old packaging, it is only the labeling which is not up to date.
The information in this section refers to API service classes which are North American standards. Different standards for engine oils are used in Europe and elsewhere. It should be noted that since this vehicle was developed in Europe, it is much easier to determine whether a European engine oil is suitable. Any synthetic oil meeting the specification VW 505.00 is suitable for use with this engine with the full recommended oil change interval. The VW 505.00 is the manufacturer's own specification, but in North America this specification is rarely seen, so we must rely on the API grades.
Oils which are suitable for the full recommended oil change interval in all climates include, but aren't limited to:
Mobil Delvac 1, 5w40 (full synthetic, a reformulated version of Mobil 1 which is intended for diesel engines)
Chevron Delo 400, 5w40 (full synthetic version)
Shell Rotella T (full synthetic version, not to be confused with Rotella SB synthetic blend or regular Rotella T non-synthetic)
Amsoil Series 3000, 5w30 (full synthetic, CH-4 rated)
Amsoil High Performance, 10w40 (full synthetic, CH-4 rated)
Amsoil semi-synthetic 15w40 (CH-4 rated and high quality, but almost as expensive as the full synthetic, and higher viscosity at low temperatures)
Redline, synthetic version (make sure you get the type meant for diesel engines, with the CG-4 or CH-4 rating)
In warm weather, a good-quality non-synthetic oil meant for diesel engines with CG-4 or CH-4 ratings may be used. They're not suitable in cold weather due to reduced cold-pumping properties, and it's prudent to shorten the oil change interval because non-synthetic oils may not resist breakdown at high temperatures as well as the synthetic oils (remember that turbocharger). These oils are much easier to find. These include:
Mobil Delvac 1300, 15w40
Shell Rotella T, 15w40
Chevron Delo 400, 15w40
Straighten the rod? Or is it just the Selector Lever that is bent on the rod? I gave it a go while still in the car, but until I get new bushings if I go that route.. it will wait lol.
I may upgrade to the 02A before too long if everything plays out, so bye bye rod shifter.
Nearly double the posted limit in a residential area? Do you not like driving? ;D
you need a flange or a race pipe for that intake.
(http://i299.photobucket.com/albums/mm307/J_holubek/84%20Jetta/2013-04-08113755_zps8baf4c7a.jpg)
Is that Lake Simcoe in the back ground? How far down is it? Here we're on Lake Huron and the St.Clair River. They're down substantially. Some say we're the lowest ever but I think we're still 6" or from that record. People with docks are wondering if boating will be feasible for them this year.
nice MF no cab could be a bit chilly , will your oil filter hit your front crosmember when you fit that oil cooler sanwich plate .
hears my work horse/ donkey it gets a hard life.
Are you running the same max boost?
maybe his thermostat is stuck open some too.
did they serve you lunch?
Look what I got coming :)!!
(http://www.siliconeintakes.com/images/product/water_air_kit_3_picture.jpg)(http://www.siliconeintakes.com/images/product/aluminum_smallkit_picture.jpg)(http://www.siliconeintakes.com/images/product/reducer_black_picture.jpg)(http://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0182/1073/products/med-4cyloilcoolers_large.jpg?3138)
I was thinking non turbo 1.6 stuff.. that should actually work well except for the taller block between front flange and the water pump.
Overflow is so ungodly lol.
I have no issue with my bro's rad with the filler neck. I see no other area for air to go there as opposed to the rads without the filler neck lol.
pin vs bolt in is year of core support.. 82 german, 83 westy..
keep overflow bottle... the tank rad bad for air pockets..
pin vs bolt in is year of core support.. 82 german, 83 westy..
keep overflow bottle... the tank rad bad for air pockets..
??? really my 81 jetta is pin mount, my 81 rabbit is bolt mount
pin vs bolt in is year of core support.. 82 german, 83 westy..
keep overflow bottle... the tank rad bad for air pockets..
??? really my 81 jetta is pin mount, my 81 rabbit is bolt mount
My '81 Rabbit is pin mount; weird. Maybe gassers go bolt mount later?
pin vs bolt in is year of core support.. 82 german, 83 westy..
keep overflow bottle... the tank rad bad for air pockets..
??? really my 81 jetta is pin mount, my 81 rabbit is bolt mount
My '81 Rabbit is pin mount; weird. Maybe gassers go bolt mount later?
Ok riddle me this what is the build date of the car?? And was the original engine 11 or 12mm?
I thought the older crank sprocket/nose and the 11mm head bolts always went together. I've never seen the older crank with the 12mm or newer crank with 11mm.
I just pulled a camplate out of a LR 300 pump and it has a much less symmetrical profile that the one pictured. The UP ramp is much more steep. I replaced it with a Cummins plate because it had a few rust pits in it.Interesting! The steepness of the up ramp is the most important part of the camplate after total lift.
If you can use a mig welder, "Hey"'s posts in the FAQ are pretty much a step by step on building a mtdi pump.
libby = newish and support.. for 2x as much..
You could tap it to the closest NPT and install a brass barb.
Do you mind telling me the length of those oil cooler hoses? I'm getting some lines made up for my own setup and could use a ballpark figure to go around. I'd add an inch or two to what those are, since I'm getting a local NAPA to make them, and the stuff they use is usually for trucks and farm equipment so you know it's gonna be tough to bend.
Off-topic, come to think of it, they'd probably help me splice my 1.6/1.9 turbo drain hoses!
You could tap it to the closest NPT and install a brass barb.
id rethink hoseclamps on them oil cooler hoses dude.. 150psi oil cold in am = oil mess real fast..
dude also rethink lower hose.. it cannot rest on the alt like that.. it will chaif and when accel will lift on that hose pulling on the lower nipple... its going to break something...
I thought more in to this, and the cold oil pressure shouldn't have an effect on the oil cooler.. because it is thermostatically controlled flow there will be no oil flowing through there when under 180f.
that stuff looks like rad hose... those screw clamps have ate into the rubber... its going to be like blown turbo oil lines...
It looks like multi-purpose hose. Rated to 300 psi. Should be fine for an oil cooler.
Yep. Working Pressure rated to 300 PSI AND Made in the good ole US of A.
How much did you pay for awic setup?
Dude, Auber gauges are the sh**. I have one for egt and if you let it idle for awhile and let the temp stabilize then turn the headlights on and you can see the temp go up a few degrees from alternator load! Very awesome! I would love to have one for boost as well
Dude, Auber gauges are the sh**. I have one for egt and if you let it idle for awhile and let the temp stabilize then turn the headlights on and you can see the temp go up a few degrees from alternator load! Very awesome! I would love to have one for boost as well
wrap it thin sheet metal?
What are you using for the connector? When you install the AWIC actual silicone couplers made for intercooler installs.
untill you drive say a monroe, beside a good german gas shock set up... you will never see how the valving in those is so far off.. they too strong.. you can think wht you want.. im telling you that insert is 90% of the issue....
Sensa-Trac products have a proven margin of safety:
Sensa-Trac shocks and struts adjust rapidly to changing road and weight conditions, delivering enhanced control with uncompromised ride comfort.
Sensa-Trac ride control products automatically adjust to changing conditions. They offer superior comfort for normal driving and deliver extra control when operating conditions get more demanding.
The Monroe® Sensa-Trac® strut with PSD (position sensitive damping) and the Safe Tech™ system combines our exclusive precision tapered grooves in the pressure tube with application engineered valving and Fluon banded piston to improve the ride, handling, and safety characteristics of the vehicle.
These features allow the Monroe Sensa-Trac strut to adjust more rapidly to changing road and weight conditions than any other available shock absorber.
The result: enhanced control with uncompromised ride comfort.
A gas strut also has oil in it. The gas is added to prevent foaming of the oil.
what do you do to your brakes?
looks like an orbital polisher has been run on them. Little circles no? Cleans the pads with brake clean and wipes the rotors too? Must have very fancy wheels that he can't clean easily.
With a Rabbit..... why not use the Rabbit springs? You never cease to cause wonder Trev0rbr lol. I only wonder on the Cabby springs because they are designed for a heavier weight on the rear axle, like a Jetta would also have. I just feel that any kit that puts the Jetta/Rabbit/SciroccoI in the same category for rear springs... is gonna be a horrible rear spring for the Jetta.
Well I guess I will get the cabby set, and put them on my monroe's (because I truly feel they are a great strut.. just the springs I have on them right now suck.) along with the mount kit pictured. Should be a damn solid setup when I am done with it.
THAT IS SO GHETTO, HAHA WTF durr de durrrr durr. I'm like yeah, .. RETARDS.
Wheel hop usually sounds like a bang, bang, bang, BOOM CRUNCH METAL LIFE SUCKS RIGHT NOW as opposed to a screetch or squeel of peeling them off
Lol@thatturbo.