oblique on 19 Apr, 2024 20:55 in MK1 Golf/Jetta and B1 Dasher
oblique on 18 Apr, 2024 22:10 in Parts for Sale/Wanted
Few more spares.edit: good used.
oblique on 18 Apr, 2024 21:22 in MK2 Golf/Jetta and Audi 5k
After a long time searching I found a rebuilt turbocharger with nothing but bench miles, basically fresh. part no. 068145704DAfter even more searching, I finally tracked down someone in the UK parting out a few GTDs and got some drain lines shipped over.1. the 1.6 intake elbow does not work...i managed to get it on but its kinked and does not sit well at all. going to try and use an AAZ elbow and AAZ k14 rubber hose.2. the usual 1.6 intake heat shields do not work...had to grind down the lower one to clear a bolt and the top one wouldnt fit at all.2. the turbo inlet is much smaller than the usual k24/T3...i had to build up the difference with duct tape...will need to find an intake pipe and apparently airbox as well is different.4. supply line is different...the k14 sits about 1" or 1.5" lower than k24..i bent to fit but did not like it at all.5. the turbo seems to have a slight rotation over k24/t3...i have TT downpipe so it has some give but just barely.anyone have any spares? i usually try to be thorough..right now i feel like driving a gingerbread house..
oblique on 18 Apr, 2024 20:54 in MK2 Golf/Jetta and Audi 5k
yup, its a Prairie car...a lot of the plastics were skunked but she's all there.here's what i managed to decode:K8B = NotchbackA8D = Luxury equipmentM9A = 4-cyl. turbo diesel engine 1.6 L/51 kW according to Canadian regulations base engine is T6AG0B = 5-speed manual transmission (long ratio for China)X9B = National sales program CanadaL0L = Left-hand drive vehicleF0A = No special purpose vehicle, standard equipmentB0E = Component parts set, complying with vehicle type for Canada, various partsE0A = No special edition0A2 = 4 doorsS2K = Special priceS5H = Region3H0 = Without backrest release for front seatsN1J = Leather/fabric seat coveringsQ1A = Standard front seats4Q1 = Flame retardent materials3J7 = Articulated and height-adjustable headrests for front seats3QK = 3-point seat belts with height adjustment and US label, frontEA = code not found :-(1X0 = Front wheel drive3L3 = Manual height adjustment for front seats4A0 = Without seat heater3NL = 2 separate seats, electr. adjustable3Q2 = Rear headrests articulated and height-adjustableEA = code not found :-(where are my electronically adjustable seats!!
fatmobile on 18 Apr, 2024 03:41 in MK2 Golf/Jetta and Audi 5k
Especially hard to find with no mold or rot, in that good of shape.
Dennis Froelich on 17 Apr, 2024 11:22 in MK2 Golf/Jetta and Audi 5k
That's a rarity to find anymore. Very cool!!
oblique on 16 Apr, 2024 15:00 in MK2 Golf/Jetta and Audi 5k
1990 factory TD w AC PS PM cruise tilt...the rest I don't know.
RabbitJockey on 15 Apr, 2024 08:41 in TDI - VE Pump TDI Engines
1. Yeah, you can remove them individually no big deal2. I don't think an impact will work for a compression test, but I guess it's worth a shot. I would pull the head, but that's up to you. it will allow you to really inspect the condition of the valves, bores, and rods. also, it would allow you to make a perfect TDC mark on your flywheel.3&4 sounds like you have the right idea.
chi1337 on 14 Apr, 2024 15:07 in TDI - VE Pump TDI Engines
Thanks, will do. Want to do some checkups (for the engine running without oil, since this is the biggest risk as I see); turbo shaft seems fine. 1. Can I remove 1 camshaft cap, so I can inspect the cam scoring? I read somewhere, long time ago, that this would lead to unbalanced pressure on the camshaft, and possibly snap the camshaft2. Any tests people suggest me to do while engine is on engine stand ? I'll do the compression test through the glowplug holes3. What kind of seals should I replace; I’ll do the: rear main seal, front main seal, valve cover, new oil pan (steel + alu) with new RTV gasket, oil filter housing gasket. Don’t want the engine leaking oil4. Other stuff I need to do? Ofcourse will do timingbelt, waterpump (I got one with alu impeller)===Long story===I recently bought an ALH engine in “unknown” condition. The engine turns over and gives heavy resistance (although not as much as my 1.6D) in the compression stroke, so that’s good. I have looked around and made a plan to test it;1. Remove glowplugs & boroscope internals (make sure no scoring on walls, crosshatching is there)2. Do compression test, using impact on the crank- I heard some people say it’s bad, but I’ll remove 3 out of 4 glowplugs), the crankshaft bolt can go to 200nm and my impact 150nm max- Compression test is done while engine is on engine stand, so cold. Should give slightly lower results (as per my experience on the 1.6D), but:-- Even when cold, the compression result should be above wear limit-- Difference between cylinders should be 50psi or lower3. Leakdown test (if compression test is bad)4. Check cam caps5. Remove oil from engine, check for shavings6. Flip over engine, replace oilpan
ORCoaster on 11 Apr, 2024 21:45 in Parts for Sale/Wanted
Wow, quite the hoard there fella. At one time I thought I needed to replace the vacuum pump on my pickup. I just needed a better check valve on it. Good luck finding homes for all of that stuff.