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Engine Specific Info and Questions => Non VW Group Diesel => Topic started by: truckinwagen on August 05, 2010, 06:18:42 pm
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hey 'Yall, I am getting out of the VW game :'(
I found a new car that sings to me louder than the VW's
its an 83 Isuzu I-Mark with a 1.8L diesel in it.
same motor that came in the chevette and chevy luv.
it has a crossflow iron head, and is rear wheel drive!
pics to come when I pick it up in a few weeks.
-Owen
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What's it like finding parts for those?
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not easy, but not impossible either.
the motor was sold in alot of cars(all rebadged Opels like the I-mark and chevette) in europe, and a few were sold in the US.
probably all the parts will end up coming from Ebay and the like, which is fine with me.
-Owen
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lets see if these pics work...
(http://images.craigslist.org/3n93ka3o95V65O25P3a859fd5e9fd78171ed8.jpg)
(http://images.craigslist.org/3nb3p33lc5Y05T05W5a85e9236ce8c9cd1e2e.jpg)
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All I can say is you suck! :P I've been on the lookout for one of these, or heck even a Vette.. Anything to get out of a fwd.. They always seem to be less the engine around these parts... Nice find!
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its not running, but it sounds to me like all it needs is a starter relay.
and even if it takes a little TLC to get it running it is worth it.
-Owen
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Good luck. Ebay is fine as long as you don't suddenly need something important, for example oversize pistons to rebuild your engine. I would be afraid, althogh the car and engine are great.
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actually, I found a supplier of a total rebuild kit, including OS pistons and bearings.
and the motor should be hard to kill, it has an iron head, 24mm wrist pins, piston oil squirters, etc...
-Owen
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I have it!
just picked it up, turned out it just needed a new battery and clamps, runs strong and everything works!
pics to come as soon as I can find my camera cable...
-Owen
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Good for you. Keep us posted even though we will hate you. I would love to find one of those or any non-FWD small diesel, but there are few. I can only think of Toyota Corolla, offhand, and Chevette, which uses the Izusu hardware. Datsun put one in the Maxima, but that's pretty much Mecedes sized.
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yeah, I would hate me too, if I wasn't me...
the chevette, i-mark and gemini are all just re-badged Opel Katette's which is great because parts are pretty easy to come by, if not in this country, then somewhere else in the world.
I hope I can find my camera cable when I unpack tonight so I can post pics.
-Owen
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well, no pics yet(still have not found the cable, might have to go get a new one), but I can give an update on how it drives.
it is really slow, being an N/A(all the left hand drive ones were N/A due to interference between the turbo and brake booster) and a three speed automatic.
once you get over the fact that it is slow, it does not do that bad, it will do 55 easily, and get up to the 85 on the speedo before too long and it is really quiet at speed.
it handles great too, nice and predictable, takes some arm strength as it has no power steering, but I am used to that.
and the best part, no torque steer! just a big lift of the front left quarter when you hit the loud pedal.
pics to come, and more news on how it drives once I start making it smoke...
-Owen
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Nice car. C-Kadett never came with diesel from factory, but this is cool 8) Now you need to find a Kadett front end for it ;D
(http://www.nice-opel-tuning.net/images/Opel%2520Kadett%2520C1%2520Coupe%25201.jpg)
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I would, but this is the only one I have ever seen up here, so...
I need to figure out what is wrong with the glow plug circuit as the warning buzzer is going off.
the glow system in this thing makes the VW one look really simple, but it does get to full glow way faster.
-Owen
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turns out it is a bad glow plug making the buzzer go off.
the car has a sensing resistor to notice a bad glow plug(by looking at how much draw the plugs take)
kinda nice.
I found a source of good glow plugs for less than $10 shipped each!
so I ordered a set along with the usual bits(air filter, oil filter, etc...) and a new coolant temp sender(as the wire broke off the one in the car, rendering the temp gauge useless.
the new coolant temp sender cost $80!
oh well, cheap glow plugs, expensive senders...
anyway, still a pleasure to drive, and gets 30 MPG in city driving! not bad for a three speed.
-Owen
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I got a dyno program for my new phone and made some runs before and after changing the air filter.
It still needs some calibration as it shows HP at 38, bit it did show an increase in HP of 1HP after installing a clean air filter.(the filter was really nasty)
-Owen
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I watched that car going on craigslist. What injection pump is it running?
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It has a Bosch VE pump on it, I will be swapping it for my cummins pump soon (when I slam the supercharger on it)
-Owen
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***en. I like the stance of that chassis. Whats the engine code for the 1.8's? I'm curious as to what other cars or trucks were offered with that mill.
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isuzu pups, chevy luvs, fork lifts, chevettes.. probably came in a few other rigs too..
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The engine code is 4FB1, the pup and luv got the 4JB1 which was a 2.2 L.
-Owen
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you thinkin what im thinkin owen?
do the 2.2s have the same bell pattern as the 1.8?
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Not sure, the 2.2 is a very different motor that uses push rods.
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oh, they are that much different? i swear the ones ive seen have timing belts and OHC. could be wrong.
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The 2.2 does have a timing belt, just not OHC
-Owen
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god I love this car, not only does it have a buzzer to tell you when you are down a glowplug, but it took a whole ten minutes to change all four(start to finish, from taking out the tools to washing my hands)
the glow plugs are pointing up with nothing obstructing them, and the buss bar has slotted holes, so all you have to do is loosen the nuts(not actually take them all the way off)
-Owen
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well, the madness begins...
I pulled the AC off for room for the M62, and just bought a K26, so compound twincharging here I come!
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nice. You need to start a build thread. More pics too.
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oh, its coming. I just need to get some parts in before I can do to much to it, but for now I have these pics...
(http://i229.photobucket.com/albums/ee139/truckinwagen/phone%20pics/IMAG0059.jpg)
(http://i229.photobucket.com/albums/ee139/truckinwagen/phone%20pics/IMAG0060.jpg)
(http://i229.photobucket.com/albums/ee139/truckinwagen/phone%20pics/IMAG0061.jpg)
as you can see the IP already has an aneroid on it, so all I need to do to it to make it a TD pump is toss the innards of my cummins pump aneroid on it.
the supercharger will go where the AC pump was(on top of the alternator on the exhaust side of the motor) and the turbo will be mounted to an up-pipe from the stock exhaust manifold.
the AC stuff is all under the hood(a dealer add on) so it will be easy to remove, and the rain tray is bolt on, so it can easily come out to make room for the turbo.
-Owen
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oh, and I am loosing the brake booster, replacing the master cylinder with an aircooled beetle 19mm master.
that will free up alot of room for the turbo, as well as remove the problematic vacuum pump(which also gives me a factory oil feed and return to use for the turbo)
-Owen
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Here's one down here....
http://orlando.craigslist.org/cto/1989829254.html
It's not $130 though, its $1300. May not be a bad price, but I have too much "invested" in VW/MB at this point to switch horses.
I am a little surprised at all the underhood room on that car. I remember seeing that engine in a Chevette and you couldn't see any daylight....
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that is a good price if it is not rusted to pieces.
the chevette's and I-Mark's had huge issues with rust, I was lucky to find one that never saw a winter, or salty coastal air.
-Owen
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well, just lost the radiator, dump truck dropped a rock which bounced up and took out my rad.
I had no luck finding a new one, so I am on a quest to find a local shop to have it re-cored.
-Owen
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yep, and the housing is very different, it only has two mounting ears, not three, so I will have to swap the internal bits into the isuzu housing.
the aneroid is also very different, and the vw/cummins boost pin/diaphragm wont swap in, but I think I found a way to make it work properly.
-Owen
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well, just lost the radiator, dump truck dropped a rock which bounced up and took out my rad.
I had no luck finding a new one, so I am on a quest to find a local shop to have it re-cored.
-Owen
Too bad, did you run the guy down and tell him he's paying? Unsecured load you know.
I've heard you can do that if you get your windshield cracked by a rock too.
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I would, but it took me a bit to realize that my car had pooped out its coolant, and by then the truck was long gone...
-Owen
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Its too bad you are giving up on VW. A RWD Diesel would be a lot of fun however. What ever happened to your Golf, after the G60 failed?
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Its too bad you are giving up on VW. A RWD Diesel would be a lot of fun however. What ever happened to your Golf, after the G60 failed?
i was wondering the same..
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That car is headed to the great big crusher in the sky.
It has way too many issues to deal with myself and no one would take it for free.
-Owen
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That is really too bad, you should at least sell the motor. I am use someone would want it, even if it was for a turbo project instead of S/C.
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motor was salvaged(mostly)
everything of value was stripped from the car.
-Owen
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the isuzu is back on the road, had to replace the oil cooler bypass hoses too as they were pouring out coolant too.
gonna take a look and see if the injection pump is leaking(as the two hoses that were spongy are directly under it)
I may pick up a spare IP from Ebay for $100 to build a hybrid from my cummins pump with.
the isuzu pump may need to have some machining done to the aneroid to be able to use the standard boost pin(it has a altitude compensator that is way different internally to the vw/cummins boost aneroid)
also I need to find a new serp pulley for the crank, as the vw bolt pattern is much too small, and the flange is not large enough diameter to re-drill it to work.
hopefully there will be some common GM serp pulley that will fit.
I got most of the parts in to do the manual brake conversion, just in time too, as the vac pump on the back of the alternator has started leaking oil in earnest. looks like this weekend will have a project!
-Owen
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do your injection pumps have 2 mounting ears 180* apart from each other like toyota/nissan pumps?
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yep
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just bought a serp pulley from a 302 that should fit pretty good.
I am going to keep the v-belt driving the alt and water pump, so if the supercharger shreds/throws its belt the motor will still cool/charge properly.
progress will come soon when the parts arrive...
-Owen
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Sweeeeeeeeet. this looks like one hell of a cool car :)
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yeah, it is.
I am very happy with it, other than it being the slowest bastard ever off the line.
-Owen
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well, the other day both my low beam headlights died at the same time...
WTF, so I turn on the high beams to make it home(they work fine)
later that night I went back out(really dark out this time) and both the high beams go out at the same time...
WTF again.
figured it had to be the relay or fuse or something, there is no way both headlights die like that at the same time TWICE!
but my test light confirmed that there was voltage at the pigtail, so relays and fuses are fine...
voltage is fine(in dash gauge shows high, but it tests fine with a multi-meter) and my CD player would have blown long before the headlights would have gone(right?)
anyway, rather than buy another set of sealed beams, which I have never liked much, I got a set of conversion housings to turn the H6054's to H4's
I also plan on converting everything to LED soon(including headlights if I can find the right parts)
anyway, no night driving for me until the new housings come in...
-Owen
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That's weird, I've heard of bulbs burning out too often but that's a little excessive.
Did you get my PM last week? I'm checking the mail but haven't seen anything yet.
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voltage is fine(in dash gauge shows high, but it tests fine with a multi-meter) and my CD player would have blown long before the headlights would have gone(right?)
Surprisingly, I've found the electronic whatnot (modules, Cd players, etc) Seem to handle funky voltage spikes better than say a bulb.. Reason being is that most of the electronic components typically operate at a voltage well under battery voltage and have some sort of voltage regulator/stabilizer circuit.. Bulbs however do not..
When you tested your system voltage did you test at idle, or with the engine revved? Did you watch it for any length of time?
The reason I'm bringing this up is that chances are good your car has a Nippondenso alternator.. The other alternative is a Hitachi.. The Denso alts, and oddly enough I've only encountered this on Isuzu vehicles (and cousins of) can cause voltage spikes.. When the problem starts the spikes are brief enough you may not notice it as far as things getting brighter and dimmer. However the first tell tale is --- headlights blowing..
The cause of this issue is high resistance (poor connection most of the time) between the battery and the battery terminal on the alternator.. The easiest way for me to describe what goes on is that the regulators are kinda slow to react.. Normally the battery will act as a buffer and all is well.. But when the connection is poor or intermittent you can get some very brief but high enough to cause problems voltage spikes..
If there is a problem it will in time usually get worse and become noticeable as far as things getting brighter and dimmer.. But, that is usually the point when the spikes are high enough to start toasting things.
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-Rabbitman, the parts are headed your way, took longer to mail than I thought it would(life gets in the way too often) sorry for the delay.
as for the voltage, I tested at idle and with the engine revved, but the voltage on this thing wanders alot, so the test might not have been very telling.
the alternator on it is currently having a fair amount of oil pushed into it by the vac pump on the back of the alt.
enough oil is getting in it that it is slinging it out the front of the alternator, kinda surprised that it is working at all with all the oil contamination of the brushes etc...
soon(hopefully this weekend) I will be removing the vac pump and swapping to manual brakes, and may be replacing the alternator with a higher output GM one(would like 95 amps instead of the pitiful 45)
I am going to install my Hella driving lights with a set of LED bulbs, and depending how much light they throw out, I may go ahead and put the LED bulbs in my headlights as well.
I do most of my driving in town anyway, so I will be happy if the LED's put out close to the stock(very dim) sealed beam units.
Hopefully the LED's will be alittle less prone to blowing from voltage issues, vibration, etc...
-Owen
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well, did my timing belt on saturday.
I lined the whole day out for the project in case it took longer than I expected(even made sure sunday was open if all went wrong and I needed an extra day)
but it only took 2 hours!
it was far easier than a VW, probably because the timing assembly is not up against the strut tower, and all the timing marks are on the front engine pulley.
here is what the timing belt looks like on the i-mark.
(http://i229.photobucket.com/albums/ee139/truckinwagen/phone%20pics/IMAG0138.jpg)
(http://i229.photobucket.com/albums/ee139/truckinwagen/phone%20pics/IMAG0139.jpg)
(http://i229.photobucket.com/albums/ee139/truckinwagen/phone%20pics/IMAG0140.jpg)
the tensioner is spring loaded, so proper tension is guaranteed, all you do is loosen the bolts, the spring applies the right tension, you turn the motor over by hand to let the tensioner take up the slack and then you tighten the tensioner bolts down so it is held in place.
brilliant!
-Owen
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the tensioner is spring loaded, so proper tension is guaranteed, all you do is loosen the bolts, the spring applies the right tension, you turn the motor over by hand to let the tensioner take up the slack and then you tighten the tensioner bolts down so it is held in place.
brilliant!
-Owen
I really wish vdub had done it that way.
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I really wish vdub had done it that way.
Ditto on that.. I've found that most other manufactures do it this way.. Someone needs to come up with an upgraded tensioner kit!
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Not a VW or a diesel, but my Mazda 323GTX has the same style of spring method, but I replaced the spring so that the correct tension would be right.
Yes it is a much better way.
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The only epic fail for an auto tensioner on a timing belt was the getup that (go figger) Chrysler used.. IT worked hydraulically off the engine oil pressure.. If they didn't spew oil on the belt they just plain didn't tension the belt..
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yeah, this motor pretty much kicks ass, haven't found much about it that I dint like.
also, because it has rockers with adjusters for valve lash, I was able to loosen all the rockers to eliminate the valvetrain putting strain on the cam, which made it easy to keep the cam in position while fiddling with the belt and sprocket.
-Owen
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ant this auto tensioner does not auto-tension while running, just for belt installation, then you tighten it down ant the right tension is kept.
anyway, I got the measurements needed to finish the machining for the crank pulley adapter, so hopefully I will have the serp pulley attached soon, and then I can start on the supercharger brackets.
-Owen
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Isuzu diesels have always impressed the crap outta me... Shame there weren't more of them in use in cars and light trucks.. The one in my tractor is pushing 10000 hours and still doesn't use any noticeable amount of oil.. Heck it rarely uses fuel! Now if it would just start decently.. Never has since the day it was new..
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ant this auto tensioner does not auto-tension while running, just for belt installation, then you tighten it down ant the right tension is kept.
That's how most other companies do it.. Most would exclude Chrysler..
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yeah, diesel and isuzu are almost synonymous.
as for starting, isuzu likes to only start the glowplugs when cranking starts.
on cold days most of the time I have to put it in gear(so the NSS keeps it from cranking) and turn the key to START for a few seconds to force the glow plugs to fire before I put it back in park and start it for real.
-Owen
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ok, what do you guys think about these wheels?
(http://images.craigslist.org/3ka3p63o35V15T45U3abme76fdd99a2e71aea.jpg)
(http://images.craigslist.org/3kd3o63p05O25T45P0abmac58308a522d1513.jpg)
they are from a toyota MR2 and are a staggered set with 15" up front and 16" in the back.
its a killer deal, and I have been looking for a set of summer wheels and tires so I can stop paying to have tires swapped.
I think they will fit nicely, and look good once I get a chance to drop the front of the car a little bit.
-Owen
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should look REAL good..
alot better than the butt rockin 80's steelies on it now.
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I'll have you know that the wheels on it now are 80's alloy "sport" wheels.
but yeah, I think the new set will suit it nicely, and should handle much better(not so much sidewall flex)
-Owen
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as for starting, isuzu likes to only start the glowplugs when cranking starts.
The tractor has manual gp's.. On a 90 degree day it requires being gp'ed to heck.. And usually afterglow till it picks up and runs.. It has the 4BA1 engine.. A few years newer they changed something on the head that made them start easier.. Not sure if it changed compression or what.. ???
Thumbs up on the wheels though!
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I'll have you know that the wheels on it now are 80's alloy "sport" wheels.
but yeah, I think the new set will suit it nicely, and should handle much better(not so much sidewall flex)
-Owen
oh yea! thats right, your car has those super pimpin 80's mags on it!
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yeah, I actually quite like the mags on it now, but I need a second set for summers, and loosing some sidewall will help handling substantially.
also today my alternator finally went, it started charging at 18 volts, so I pulled the brushes and one of them has been eating into the commutator, so the alt is junk(not rebuildable in the least)
so I disconnected the alternator and ran off my battery for the rest of the day, and put it on the charger when I got home.
ordered a new alternator from rockauto(along with a new e-brake cable) so until the parts come in I will be either charging at nights or driving my uncles truck, which I hate...
I think I will go ahead and do my manual brake swap while I am at it.
-Owen
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also today my alternator finally went, it started charging at 18 volts, so I pulled the brushes and one of them has been eating into the commutator, so the alt is junk(not rebuildable in the least)
Good you caught it before things started going poof.. I'd imagine things such as a dash cluster are not real nice to find..
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yeah, I was actually kinda surprised things didnt go poof, I had to drive for longer than I would have liked with it charging at 18+(anchorage traffic wouldn't let me get off the road as fast as I would have liked)
it seems that everything survived, the dash cluster is still good, and the glow plug controller is still good too.
-Owen
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well, I picked up the wheels!
rear fits perfectly, but the front will need a small spacer(1/2" or so) to both clear the shock and deal with the fact that the centerbore in the new wheels is slightly too small.
but don't they look good?
(http://i229.photobucket.com/albums/ee139/truckinwagen/phone%20pics/IMAG0146.jpg)
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looks good!
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They'd look better with smoke rolling from them.. ;D
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yeah, I am currently working on my supercharger brackets to help with the tire smoke issue...
I am modeling a manifold in CAD to mount the charger to the intake.
unfortunately I may have to clearance the hood some to clear it(by either by cutting it some, or making brackets to hold the back of the hood up)
-Owen
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A ram air hood would look pretty sweet on that! 8) Guess there aren't too many aftermarket hoods for an I-mark..
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nope, and all the prefabbed scoops/cowls are wayyyy to expensive for the little bit of fiberglass that they are.
I think that modifying the hinges to make the rear of the hood sit 2-3 inches higher would do the trick, which would double as a way to keep underhood temps down.
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I think that modifying the hinges to make the rear of the hood sit 2-3 inches higher would do the trick, which would double as a way to keep underhood temps down.
Once suggestion if you take that route.. Make some variety of filler panel to go across the back of the hood.. Nothing worse than having a radiator hose blow on the highway and having 2 gallons of antifreeze blow on to your windshield... Or on you if the windows are down...
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ok, so for the supercharger bracket/manifold I need to make it out of steel(not ideal, but I dont have the ability to weld aluminum right now)
so I am trying to decide what thickness of mild steel to make it out of, I am thinking that 3/16" will do nicely if I am careful to weld in such a way to keep heat down(stitch weld like you would for body panels) jumping around to minimize warpage.
what do you all think?
I will try to make a mock up out of cardboard this weekend to iron out the clearance issues.
-Owen
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well, here the manifold is in paper:
(http://i229.photobucket.com/albums/ee139/truckinwagen/phone%20pics/IMAG0149.jpg)
(http://i229.photobucket.com/albums/ee139/truckinwagen/phone%20pics/IMAG0151.jpg)
(http://i229.photobucket.com/albums/ee139/truckinwagen/phone%20pics/IMAG0150.jpg)
I will test fit the pattern in the engine bay tomorrow to see if there are clearance issues and make changes as needed.
and then I will go get some 3/16" plate and start cutting!
-Owen
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well, test fit worked out well, and the prototype fits without modifications!
so on monday I will go get some steel plate(all the steel vendors here are closed weekends) and start working on it!
-Owen
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Bottle cap and calipers...you knew this was going to work. You set it up for success before you started LOL!
Great job.
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I think I cam smell tire smoke already!! ;D
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well, my new alternator came in today.
and its the wrong one...
it has a different connector, and does not have the drive on the back for the vacuum pump.
so I will look tomorrow to see if it will bolt up right, and if I can change the connector to make it work.
I am not too worried about the vac pump drive, as I was going to swap to manual brakes anyway, but I was hoping to have some more time before I had to do that.
-Owen
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well, no dice on the new alternator, it is externally regulated, while my old one was internally regulated.
the regulator wiring is convoluted at best, and trying to figure out how to make an external regulator work with my car would take too much time, and I need to stop driving my uncles pickup ASAP(gets 10MPG on a good day) so I broke down, and ordered another alt.
this one I am confident is the right one, but cost $250(ouch)
should be here wednesday, and then I will be back on top.
-Owen
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voltage regulators are not very complicated to make work, but u already have found a solution
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I was not too worried about making the voltage regulator work, as I was doing that and maintaining the wiring to the warning light"brain" in this car which apparently is wired directly into the alternator.
with the alt not wired in all, and I mean all, of the warning lights, as well as the "master warning" light and buzzer come on.
the wiring diagrams are a little vague about the wiring of the little warning controller.
I would hate to have a working alt, but not working warning lights, so I just got the right replacement alt, that will talk to the brain properly.
-Owen
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that kinda seems like a complicated engine operating system...
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oh, it will run without all of it, and the analog gauges for oil pressure, water temp, voltage, etc still work without it, but the warning lights, buzzers are controlled by a little brain.
that is what allows the warning system to know when a glow plug has died, etc...
I really like the warning system on this car, and will probably have no problems with tinkering with it when I find a good wiring diagram.
as for the alt, I installed the proper one and all is well!
I left the vac pump off as the seal between it and the old alt had failed and dumped lots of oil into the alt(I dont want that to happen again) so it takes a bit of boot to use the brakes, but they are still sufficient without the booster.
at some point I will install a smaller diameter master cylinder to make braking a bit easier, but that can wait until it is warmer out.
-Owen
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I need to replace my master cylinder. I think it was from giving it the big boot when the vac pump wasn't working the best and it damaged the seals. I am just guessing, maybe it being old as dirt had something to do with it too. Just something else to thing about maybe.
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I really like the warning system on this car, and will probably have no problems with tinkering with it when I find a good wiring diagram.
I have diagrams for that on Alldata.. They're not overly spectacular, but maybe they'll help..
Glow plug system is here http://s295.photobucket.com/albums/mm124/maxfax3/Imark/gp%20system/ (http://s295.photobucket.com/albums/mm124/maxfax3/Imark/gp%20system/)
Dash cluster is here http://s295.photobucket.com/albums/mm124/maxfax3/Imark/cluster/ (http://s295.photobucket.com/albums/mm124/maxfax3/Imark/cluster/)
Lemme know if you need for anything else.. I didn't forget about the intercooler either. just have been slammed with work....
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cool, thanks for those!
I figured life got in the way with the intercooler, its totally cool, I havent gotten any closer to needing it in the last few weeks anyway, with finals and the alternator business...
-Owen
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well, it feels good to be back in my car again!
now all I need to do is figure out why my mileage is on a downward spiral, it was 30MPG when I got the car, but has been declining recently, last tank was at 22MPG...
I think its a fuel leak, but am not sure about lying under the car to check for one in this cold...
-Owen
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well, just parked it on some pavement(the only good use for parking garages, no snow in the winter!) and let it run for a while, no drips(was kinda expecting a fuel leak considering such a large drop in MPG)
which is good, no more oil leak, no trans leak etc...
next on my list is to get the rear end up on jackstands and see if the u-joints are still good, as well as feel for bad bearings in the rear end(dont hear any of the telltale sounds of rear end trouble, but you never know)
I will also take the crap out of the trunk to see if dropping a few hundred pounds would help.
-Owen
-
well, I am looking into an electric vacuum pump for my brakes now that I have eliminated the stock one on my car.
what do you guys think about one of these:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Saab-Brake-Vacuum-Pump-900-9000-9-5-9-3-9-5-9-3-4646220-/380292258903?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item588b2f5c57#ht_500wt_1182
or what about the electric vac pump from newer VW's?
also, I am having trouble finding vacuum operated switches to control it(dont really want the pump running all the time, so I want to shut it off when enough vac is reached)
-Owen
-
GM used one in the 80's to control the lock up torque converter on non computer controlled vehicles.. GM #14014519 and found on the '83-'85 S-10's with a 2.8 and auto trans..
IIRC though I think they are normally off until the vac reaches around 10" then it turns on, it would work bass ackwards..
Some of the vac operated 4x4 getups use vac switches to run lights (84-86 Cheokee and a few more years on the Wrangler), but again I think they work backwards..
Of course it would probably be wise to use a relay to run the pump.. IF you went that route you would have sort of a fail safe setup.. IF the switch fails, or fuse blows on the control circuit the pump would always run...
-
http://www.mcmaster.com/#vacuum-switches/=abdhxa
Or what does the ford 7.3 stroke use? I know they have a electric pump.
-
Since you are making brakets you could use an old hydraboost.
-
hydroboost out of a mid 80s GM pickup?
still gotta have a power steering pump, and funky brake booster..
-
yep. When working still my favorite brake setup. Since he is making brakets and is good at doing that, it "might" be an option. I have no clue what fits what, but that maybe sweet.
-
well, I would like to keep the number of spinning accessories to a minimum, and sourcing a complete working hydro booster would be difficult, and probably more expensive than getting and setting up a electric vac pump.
also, having vac would be nice, as the bypass valve on the supercharger I am using can be activated by vac or boost, which would allow me to bypass under boost from the turbo, as well as be able to bypass manually for cruise(to maintain fuel economy)
as for a control circuit, I would make it to fail in the on position, so if something goes wrong I will still have vac.
there are lots of options for vac pumps used to supplement power brakes, I guess my question is do you think they would be up to the task of running the brakes all by itself, or would they burn up?
also, the switch to trigger it is still a problem.
I could get another auber gauge to control it, but that would be pretty spendy.
-Owen
-
Here's a little info on where to find used vac pumps with on/off switch built in.
http://www.gmcmotorhome.com/tech/vacuum_pump/index.html
-
excellent!
thanks for that info!
-Owen
-Edit-
but that part number appears to be for a belt driven vac pump, not an electric one...
-
When working
That right there is the key point.. They are great when they are in good order, my 70's Lincolns all had it.. 3 tons and they'd stop on the proverbial dime.. But there's also a delightful pile of crap to leak...
Owen, as long as you have no leaks those electric pumps should be just fine.. Unless you pump your brakes a lot or something like that...
-
found a switch!
and its only $30!
http://www.evparts.com/products/street-vehicle/brakes--dot/switches---street-vehicle/bk2785.htm
gonna find a good vac pump now...
-Owen
-
I could see problems with an electric vac pump. I would still think about a Hydro-booster. They are small and cheap. We got complete units out of scrap yards for next to nothing. I ran them in all my offroad trucks till the newest one, that will be full manual.
What about the electric brake boosters the new cars and trucks have? I've already seen '03 chevy trucks that have them in the scrap yards
-
one of the reasons I am leaning toward the vac pump is that it would be a quick install with little fab work.
I cannot afford to have the car off the road right now, so if I dont have to pull the booster I dont really want to.
-Owen
-
i like the vac pump idea also..
hydro-boost sounds like alot of installing..
-
Not to mention, most vehicles with hyrdo boost are heavy.. A light touch of the brakes with a hyrdo boost equipped I-mark may stand it on it's nose...
-
Not to mention, most vehicles with hyrdo boost are heavy.. A light touch of the brakes with a hyrdo boost equipped I-mark may stand it on it's nose...
Yeah, when they worked it was awesome. Sorry to throw a wrench in the mix, I just figured I would let you in on another option if you hadn't thought of it already.
-
well, master and leaking rear cylinder replaced.
bled the brakes nice and good to flush out all the old fluid.
brakes are back to awesome! much better than when I bought the car.
still no vacuum boost yet, but I can easily lock up all four tires on pavement so that is no rush. more just to make pushing the pedal easier.
still gonna go with the electric vac pump to maintain the stock booster setup, and allow for vac accessories.
still have to replace the other rear cylinder and shoes at some point(time was tight and the right side was still in working order so put it off for a bit) and replace the emergency brake cable(only the right side works, the left is frozen) but all that can wait for a bit.
feeling good that I have a car that will stop when asked to.
-Owen
-
also took a look at the drivetrain while the car was up in the air, all good.
u-joints in good shape, rear end lube full and in good shape, bearings feel good.
the spider gears in the diff have a little slop, but not enough to warrant concern yet.
I drove out to the shop that I borrowed(50 miles one way) and back nice and slow.
stayed under 55 the whole way, and kept myself from flooring it so much(no drifting through the corners like I have been doing latley)
filled back up at the end of the day and guess what? thats right 34MPG!
so my mileage problem was not a mechanical issue, but just me being a yahoo too much.
funny, with my other diesels driving like an idiot would lose a couple MPG, maybe up to 15%, but 30% I thought there had to be a problem with the car.
must be the transmission, only three speeds, and always wanting to downshift when the throttle is down must consume more fuel than a manual car does.
-Owen
-
also took a look at the drivetrain while the car was up in the air, all good.
u-joints in good shape, rear end lube full and in good shape, bearings feel good.
the spider gears in the diff have a little slop, but not enough to warrant concern yet.
I drove out to the shop that I borrowed(50 miles one way) and back nice and slow.
stayed under 55 the whole way, and kept myself from flooring it so much(no drifting through the corners like I have been doing latley)
filled back up at the end of the day and guess what? thats right 34MPG!
so my mileage problem was not a mechanical issue, but just me being a yahoo too much.
funny, with my other diesels driving like an idiot would lose a couple MPG, maybe up to 15%, but 30% I thought there had to be a problem with the car.
must be the transmission, only three speeds, and always wanting to downshift when the throttle is down must consume more fuel than a manual car does.
-Owen
my black rabbit would get about 35 mpg with the pedal down, and a black cloud behind it.. my beige rabbit gets BAD mileage if you have the pedal down, and it doesnt hardly smoke at all.. but it does have quite a bit more power..
-
Yeah, well, I got 34mpg driving like a granny.
Having a bit of fun got me 22.
I can only imagine how bad it would be if I was on it hard all the time!
-
if i drive like a granny, my rabbit gets great mileage. but i can burn thru diesel faster with this rabbit, than i could burn thru gas in my gti..
-
well, I just bought a vac pump and control switch, so we will see how that turns out!
also just bought a boost gauge from Auber along with some more water/meth valves(so I can control the different stages I want to run) and some Hobbs switches.
gonna try to get the manifold for the supercharger welded up this weekend, and install it ASAP
getting tired of driving such a pig!
-Owen
-
well, parts started rolling in today, just waiting on the Hobbs switches now.
oh, and the control switch for the vac pump turned out to be sold out, back to the drawing board.
got the serp pulley on today, had to shorten the adapter a bit, but was able to do that with my angle grinder no problem.
got the manifold pattern onto the steel plate, and started cutting it out.
but had to stop as it was "making too much noise" in the parking lot.
I am off to a buddies house to work on our car clubs project(turning a mk2 golf into an enclosed trailer) and am hoping to get a chance to work on the manifold sometime while I am there.
still not sure what I am going to do about hood clearance, I dont really want to cut the hood up as there are not any lying around for extras(like there are for VW's)
gonna wait until the charger is installed to worry too much about it, one thing at a time...
-Owen
-
well, got the EGT and boost gauges wired up and installed today.
(http://i229.photobucket.com/albums/ee139/truckinwagen/phone%20pics/IMAG0181.jpg)
EGT on left Boost on right.
here is the thermocouple
(http://i229.photobucket.com/albums/ee139/truckinwagen/phone%20pics/IMAG0182.jpg)
not the best spot, but it will do until the turbo is installed.
since the turbo will require a new manifold to be fabbed, I can move it then
boost is in PSI measured relative to ambient pressure at 40*(which is why it is reading below 0.0, its really cold out)
gotta figure out the damn manifold now...
(and I know I have said that before, but...)
-Owen
-
not going with the s/c anymore? ???
-
yep, the SC is still going on.
the turbo is a down the road thing, to add to the SC.
having trouble getting much progress on the SC manifold done though...
gotta find some damn time, this weekend I have the office christmas party to go to, so not much will happen(probably)
might see if I can borrow some garage space from someone on sunday, its just really hard to get much done in the damn cold.
-Owen
-
Owen, I feel you man.. I have zero time and work in my driveway as well..
Its -26c here :( no work will be done for a while.. However my work is not fabbing manifolds! Only a tdi swap lol
-
yeah, between school, work, the damn cold weather and my landlord, I have very little time to do much.
I might be able to do some cutting in my works warehouse, but not welding(the warehouse is full of high end furniture...)
gotta find some time to do the exhaust on my car, finish a brake job, and fix some leaky oil cooler hoses too.
-Owen
-
ok, so I have been scratching my head about the supercharger.
putting it on the intake manifold like I was going to does a couple things I dont like.
-it puts alot of weight on the cast aluminum manifold, couple that with lots of vibrations and I worry it would crack the manifold. since parts for this motor are hard to come by I dont want to risk that.
-it wont clear the hood, I could mount the charger low on the other side of the motor, but then things get crowded at the alternator, and plumbing gets complicated with the brake booster there, etc...
I could cut the hood to clear, and mount a scoop, but it would be way over to the side of the hood, which would look like garbage(and again as hard as a new hood would be to get, I dont want to hack it up too bad)
so I thought, if I am gonna cut a hole in the hood to clear the charger, why not do it in the middle so I could cover it with a cowl scoop?
( or leave it poke through like the jimmy blown hot rods)
looking at the head, there are really convenient mounting bosses on the drivers side, milled flat tapped and inline with the motor
(http://i229.photobucket.com/albums/ee139/truckinwagen/phone%20pics/IMAG0187.jpg)
(http://i229.photobucket.com/albums/ee139/truckinwagen/phone%20pics/IMAG0188.jpg)
(not great pics of them, but they are there)
I could use them to mount one side of the manifold, and the other could go to the lifting lug on the other side of the valve cover
so the supercharger manifold would hover over the valve cover and position the charger like this
(http://i229.photobucket.com/albums/ee139/truckinwagen/phone%20pics/IMAG0183.jpg)
(http://i229.photobucket.com/albums/ee139/truckinwagen/phone%20pics/IMAG0184.jpg)
(http://i229.photobucket.com/albums/ee139/truckinwagen/phone%20pics/IMAG0186.jpg)
the manifold would have some height to it, so the charger would poke out like this
(http://i229.photobucket.com/albums/ee139/truckinwagen/phone%20pics/IMAG0189.jpg)
(http://i229.photobucket.com/albums/ee139/truckinwagen/phone%20pics/IMAG0190.jpg)
then I would use a silicone coupler from the supercharger manifold to the stock intake elbow
this would make the charger stick up quite a bit, but not too much to hide under a tall cowl scoop.
the best part is that the manifold design I had will still work with very little modifications.
-Owen
-
there really isnt much real estate under that hood..
im thinking about supercharging a diesel too..
i have an 81 Datsun diesel, it has lots of real estate around the engine, just not enough to mount a turbo..
-
yeah, I really want to mount the supercharger so it all fits under the hood, to keep the sleeper look.
but it wont be easy, the damn supercharger is just so big!
-
that supercharger is tiny compared to the M90 ive been packing around ;D
nice short drive snout on it too..
the M90 has about a 7" drive snout on it..
-
yeah, its a really nice little package, the only better thing would be an M62 from a mercedes, they are very small(but spendy)
I think I am just going to go ahead with the over-valvecover install and run sans hood for a bit until I figure out a good way to make a hole in it without ruining it.
-Owen
-
well, got the manifold assembled, but not finished welding on it yet(ran out of time)
got my leaking exhaust fixed too( the flex was rotted out)
I cut the stock exhaust at the bottom of the downpipe and welded an adapter from the 1.75 to 2.5 pipe.
then I put a new flex tube and a 2.5" straight back to a turbo muffler ending right before the rear axle.
its basically the same exhaust I had on an NA VW, and it was pretty good on it, but this time it is WAY TOO LOUD.
sounds good, the tone is fine, but just way too loud!
there is no longer an exhaust leak filling the cabin with fumes, but I need to figure out the noise issue.
might see about putting a restrictor after the muffler to force the pressure waves to stay and dissipate inside the muffler.
-Owen
-
(http://i229.photobucket.com/albums/ee139/truckinwagen/phone%20pics/IMAG0208.jpg)
-
well, the exhaust is better, but still louder than I would like it.
the biggest issue was that the flex tube was not sealing against the downpipe properly, so it was releasing a lot of noise there.
replaced that and got it to seal, and it is much better.
next I put a restrictor in the outlet of the muffler(just a 2.5-2" reducer put in backwards) and that helped lots too, but still way to loud above half throttle.
I bought a second muffler and I will be installing it this weekend, I am gonna remove the muffler I have on it now, build an over-axle pipe and put the two mufflers behind the axle, the last one will be where the stock muffler was
pics will come at some point, it has been too dark to get any by the time I am finished each night...
-Owen
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If you just get it out from under the car it will be better. You may not even need the 2 muffling devices.
-
yeah, that may be true inside the car, but the damn thing will still be just as loud outside it.
I really dont want to be the guy waking up all the neighbors every morning.
not sure what it is, but this thing is way louder than any of the vw's I have had.
the exhaust is really aggressive, not bad at idle, but as soon as you get on the throttle it goes crazy!
-Owen
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Your probably set on that charger, but i know of a smaller clutched on that might be for sale. It came from a JDM spec. Corolla/MR2. I can get some pics if you interested?
-
pics would be great!
although funds are pretty tight, so it would have to be pretty close to what I can get our of the M62 price wise.
any idea what size charger it is?(comparable to a m62, m45...)
-Owen
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I have no idea what size or how to size them. I tried to google it and kept getting the story on the car.
Its size is compaired to a G60 charger. If that makes sence.
I just got off the phone with him. He said $300 ::). So I know thats a lot of scratch but thought I'd throw that out there. It came on the engine code 4AGZE.
-
looks like that may be a very nice charger!
might actually outperform the eaton (displaces 1.2L per rev vs. 1L per rev), and certainly is smaller.(although not in height)
$300 is not bad, but more than I can afford right now...
good thought though.
-Owen
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He has someone looking at it tomarrow and is supposed to call if it sells or not. Why don't you talk with him and make an offer. Never know?
-
actually, no.
I have everything for this one made up, and I need to stop buying things, so...
thanks for the pointer though, if I ever need another charger I will look for one of those.
-Owen
-
well, I might have a lead on a local source for a cowl induction hoodscoop.
there are some pretty good prices online for them, but shipping to AK gets pretty stupid(like more than the darn thing costs by 10%)
waiting on a call back from a custom truck shop about if they can get one for me, but fingers crossed!
I am gonna back the injection pump off a bit too, it blows black bad at lower RPM, no real need for that so much, but good to know it can fuel enough ;D
it is also running high EGT idling in gear, idle in neutral is about 250*, but put it in gear and it jumps to 400*
maybe I need to lower my idle speed a little...
cold idle it smokes black too, I am hoping that bumping the timing helps with that as well as my high rpm stumble.
will report back when I get around to fiddling with it.
-Owen
-
How much bigger displacement is this engine over VW 1.6? Sounds like you are right on with everything here and great build BTW. Are there any big drag strips up there? Around here guys are racing and always upgrading/destroying stuff and parts come cheap for guys that like to fab stuff up for street cars, sometimes anyway.
Do you think the high rpm stumble could be valve related or governor related? Just thinking. How are your brakes coming?
-
the motor is a 1.8, but the head flows much better than a vw one(even the AAZ) as it is a crossflow, which allows really well shaped valve ports.
the high rpm stumble is fuel related, it ran right to 5000RPM no trouble until I did the hybrid pump.
I am guessing that the timing curve is not right for the bigger pump head causing it to be too retarded at high RPM(or could too much advance do the same thing?)
that an its getting the cloud of smoke with the stumble that indicates that it is no longer able to burn the fuel properly
the brakes are done except for the vacuum pump, I have the pump, but not a control switch for it yet, just need to order one.
there is a drag strip about an hour away, and I plan on taking it down the strip as often as I can, even if it is only during the "test and tune" days
as for fabbing stuff, I am really liking this new welder of mine(best $50 ever spent) and am thinking I may make my own turbo manifold too.
-Owen
-
I am gonna try and get my injectors checked/rebuilt (not just replace with remans, they cost $110 each!)
but am having trouble finding the sealing washers that seal the injector to the head.
the isuzu uses a separate seal and heat shield(unlike the vw that has one piece that does both) and I cant seem to find them online at all.
I called the isuzu dealer here in town, and they dont carry any parts for my motor at all!
gonna try some of the local diesel shops to see if they can get the parts and what they charge to reman a set of injectors.
the car has 223K on it, and I have no idea when the injectors were done last, and since I am pushing more fuel through them, they might as well be at their best.
-Owen
-
well, the local shops have told me "pull the injectors and bring in the sealing washers, we will see if we can match them"
not gonna do that! what happens when they cant match them?
I would be without the car running!
gonna try some more places and try again.
-Owen
-
well, found a source for the sealing washers, and at $12 a set(includes the injector to head and injector body seals) I am going to buy two sets!
also looks like the nozzles are the same size as the vw, and GM 6.2/6.5
so those just got easier to find.
I am thinking about using the GM nozzles, they are cheaper and I already know they work well on small engines.
-Owen
-
just got confirmation that the car takes the long style DNOSD nozzle, like the early 6.2 and vw.
just ordered a set of early 6.2 nozzles for $6.50 each!
that and the injector seals are on the way too, so I should have refreshed injectors soon.
-Owen
-
well, got the exhaust finished(for now)
here are the mufflers, which both sit behind the axle:
(http://i229.photobucket.com/albums/ee139/truckinwagen/phone%20pics/IMAG0217.jpg)
and the exhaust before the axle, and the over-axle pipe:
(http://i229.photobucket.com/albums/ee139/truckinwagen/phone%20pics/IMAG0218.jpg)
the bottom of the mufflers sit about even with the bottom of the differential housing, I would like them to sit higher, but I can deal with that later, the muffler might hit the ground occasionally, but not too bad(really just looks crappy from behind)
as for the supercharger manifold, its almost done!
(http://i229.photobucket.com/albums/ee139/truckinwagen/phone%20pics/IMAG0219.jpg)
(http://i229.photobucket.com/albums/ee139/truckinwagen/phone%20pics/IMAG0220.jpg)
(http://i229.photobucket.com/albums/ee139/truckinwagen/phone%20pics/IMAG0221.jpg)
just need to align the belt and drill the mounting flange, as well as cut an outlet and weld on a flange to connect the intake to.
-Owen
-
oh, also I have to make a remote oil filler(as the supercharger will be sitting right on top of the stock oil filler)
I got a conduit coupler the right diameter to fit an S-10 oil filler plug(just a rubber bung), I plan on pulling off the breather from the valve cover, and making a blockoff plate with the conduit oil filler and a barb fitting for the oil breather.
that way the new oil filler will sit behind the supercharger.
-Owen
-
Progress has been made!
(http://i229.photobucket.com/albums/ee139/truckinwagen/phone%20pics/IMAG0223.jpg)
(http://i229.photobucket.com/albums/ee139/truckinwagen/phone%20pics/IMAG0222.jpg)
(http://i229.photobucket.com/albums/ee139/truckinwagen/phone%20pics/IMAG0224.jpg)
got my remote oil filler almost finished, and still need to make the inlet flange for the charger as well as the outlet tube and finish welding.
as you can see I am going to have the outlet from the charger in the front and turn the corner to where I have the intake pipe now.
the belt in the pics is an old one from the G60 project I cut to use for alignment and measuring for the new belt.
gonna need a 56" six rib belt, should not be too much of a problem.
I am using the stock AC tensioner bracket and a VW diesel timing belt tensioner for the tensioner on the charger, and the standoff is just an old 1/2" deep socket that I never use.
-Owen
-
Cool :)
-
thanks, I think so too.
I am making the remote oil filler and the charger inlet flange out of some lexan.
I am away from the tooling needed to work with steel for a while, and neither flange will be under pressure, so I thought why not?
and if I need to replace them later I can do that too.
but for now I can get some progress made.
I also got my bulkhead connectors for my battery cable, so I can finally tidy up the pass through the firewall
( the connectors go in a 1.25" hole and have a nut on either side for the cable to connect to)
I am also thinking about removing the rear seat(at least for a while) all I ever use it for is a shelf anyway, and removing it will make wiring the wiring for the water/meth, nitrous and battery cable easier.
-Owen
-
got my remote oil filler/breather and charger inlet done:
(http://i229.photobucket.com/albums/ee139/truckinwagen/phone%20pics/IMAG0225.jpg)
(http://i229.photobucket.com/albums/ee139/truckinwagen/phone%20pics/IMAG0226.jpg)
(http://i229.photobucket.com/albums/ee139/truckinwagen/phone%20pics/IMAG0227.jpg)
and also installed one of the bulkhead connectors for my battery cable
(http://i229.photobucket.com/albums/ee139/truckinwagen/phone%20pics/IMAG0228.jpg)
(http://i229.photobucket.com/albums/ee139/truckinwagen/phone%20pics/IMAG0229.jpg)
just need to weld on the charger outlet yet.
(which will have to wait until I can borrow a garage again.
getting really close!
-Owen
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That is great man. I am glad you work when it is frigid out...I am a girl sometimes.
-
ah, its not too bad right now, its been in the mid 30's for the past few days.
the big problem is the snow on the ground, any time I need to work under the car I get wet.
I have been going over the the universities new parking garage to work on my exhaust(no snow inside it)
UPD has only harassed be a few times ::)
-Owen
-
yay! parts came in!
got my new green advance spring(thanks spearco!)
as well as the rest of the parts to do my injectors, and my control switch for my electric vacuum pump.
and tomorrow morning I am heading to Homer for the weekend, so no progress this weekend.
hope I get a while next week to get some stuff done.
-Owen
-
Awsome. That was fast delivery. Glad that spring went to a good home :D.
-
thanks again for the spring.
just got the last few parts came in. I ordered a second fuse block(because I lost the first one) and right after it arrived, I found the one I lost.
anyway, if I can get the car running by the weekend I will hopefully have the charger installed before monday.
-Owen
-
well, just found a new starter(a good one) an injection pump and a glow plug control box for an i-mark, all for just $200!
the glow plug control boxes are considered to be impossible to find, so I am stoked.
-Owen
-
Okay.... Where in the hell do you keep stumbling into these deals!?!?!? First the I-Mark, now parts for the thing.. ;)
-
guy on another forum saw that I was having issues with my starter and just offered.
not sure what I did to deserve all this good luck, must be all that good clean living ;)
-
well, got the supercharger installed!
I am gonna get some pics tomorrow, it got too dark to get any good ones.
it makes 1.5PSI at idle, 9PSI at 2000RPM, and tops out at 18PSI at 3000RPM
makes lots more power too, gonna have to find some dry pavement to see what it can really do.
sounds like it may need to have the nose drive rebuilt though, it is clattering at idle, and it developed a squeal right as I pulled into my driveway.
-Owen
-
Sweet man. Can't wait to see more pics.
-
(http://i229.photobucket.com/albums/ee139/truckinwagen/phone%20pics/IMAG0238.jpg)
(http://i229.photobucket.com/albums/ee139/truckinwagen/phone%20pics/IMAG0237.jpg)
I think the squeal is either the old timing belt tensioner I am using to tension the belt, or the belt itself squealing a bit at lower RPM.
I think I need to get a real spring loaded belt tensioner to keep the belt tight...
-Owen
-
Is there room to put it on the other side of the tensioner? looks like it would wrap a little more around the SC pulley then maybe eliminating the squeal.
-
Shouldn't that idler be running against the back of the belt anyway? That plus spring loaded with a longer arm should help.
-
awesome, just awesome
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http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-NuQiGdAsSI&feature=player_profilepage
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8IU5RX7ceu8&feature=player_profilepage
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Pure awesomeness!!!!
A spring loaded tensioner would be the way to go I think.. No need to fuss with the tension, and I'd think it'd help absorb some of the shock when you'd rapidly change rpms...
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I love that startup video! Sounds amazing :)
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Hells yeah. Great sounding first start vid.
By the way, I love the "Space Potato" on the roof ;D. JK.
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thats my "alien pod" ;D
I was super stoked when it fired up and worked so well right off the bat(almost never happens)
and like most things there are a few issues that are becoming obvious, nothing that would keep me from driving it yet, but things that need to be addressed.
like, the fact that I work for a respectable(read upper crust) company that would probably frown on such automotive tomfoolery. I need to work out a way to make it less obvious that there is a supercharger sticking up out of the hood.
I need to cut a hole in my hood(whimper) and install the mother of all scoops to cover it all, and said scoop needs to look good, not some slapped together piece of garbage. I also need to get it quieter, installing a cover will probably help, but I also need to route the intake somewhere else, and maybe put something other than an open filter on the end of it.
oh well, all things to come later, for now I need to get my starter to work right...
-Owen
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It's a shame you didn't have someone nearby who did fiberglass work.. There's an outfit outta West Virginia that does some nice fiberglass work with odd parts, and pretty reasonably too.. $350 and they copied the steel hood from my old Cougar and made me one with a Mach 1 style scoop...
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holy crap that is a good price!
if I was in homer I would make a copy myself, its not too hard, but time consuming and takes lots of space.
for now, I think I will just make a fiberglass scoop to bond to the hood.
should not be too big of a deal, get some urethane foam and make a buck of the shape I want, fiberglass over it, remove the foam and bond to hood(after some bondo and sanding)
hopefully I can find some local help with some space to do it.
-Owen
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Bolt a mailbox on there!!! ;D ;D ;D
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if it was a second car I would think about it, but it is a daily driver, so I need to work a little harder than that...
-Owen
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My father in law builds old cars into street rods. The best use of around the house stuff I have seen him do that may work for you is a wheel barrow. He takes a brand new one cuts it up and uses it to make the firewall section above the trans on some and used it to make a cowl like hood scoop on another. New steel welds nice and if you cut it right it looks factory.
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I like that idea alot actually, I can get a steel wheelbarrow for pretty cheap(although the selection is pretty slim these days, almost all new barrows are plastic)
and it would be easy to make a mach-1 style scoop with an open leading edge.
I could cut the barrow down to make it the right height, and then cut it down the middle to narrow it appropriately.
the shape could then be modified a bit more with fiberglass and body filler to make it look better.
-Owen
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Yep.
We have a bunch around here. New steel ones that is. They are powdercoated from the factory and I got my last one for 30.00.
They have just about the perfect shape for custom scoops, firewalls, and sometimes make a decent wheel barrow.
They beauty of being able to weld it is pretty cool as well.
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yeah, I am gonna go take a look at what is available here tomorrow, might go buy one and start cutting this weekend, also gonna go to the local junkyard and see what I can get in the way of a serpentine tensioner.
might see about an intercooler soon too, I cant help but think that this thing heat soaks really bad.
-Owen
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got a tensioner from a 6.5 GM diesel today.
cost me $10, I hope it does the trick!
(http://i229.photobucket.com/albums/ee139/truckinwagen/phone%20pics/IMAG0240.jpg)
(http://i229.photobucket.com/albums/ee139/truckinwagen/phone%20pics/IMAG0241.jpg)
-Owen
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That ought to work dandy, and be cheap to replace of need be.. You're going to be putting the tension to the back side of the belt right? The nice part of that style is that if you need more or less tension on the belt you can change the position of the hole in the mounting bracket that keeps the base of the tensioner from turning..
I still have that Volvo intercooler here that I never got around to getting a shipping quote on.. ::) If you're still interested I gotta find something to package it in....
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yeah, the actual idler gear is replaceable too, which is nice. lots of tensioners have to be replaced as a unit.
I will be using it against the back of the belt, right under the SC pulley.
and I am definitely still interested in the intercooler, but let me know what shipping will cost first, cash is tight right now...
-Owen
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I've been hoping to get a small radiator box of some sort to keep the packaging to a minimum.. Might actually be able to get it there though cheapo US mail.. I'm gonna need a new radiator for he Rabbit, this might be a good excuse to order one.. I wanna see burnout pics darnit!!! ;D ;D
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I have a non overflow rad from an early rabbit I have no use for anymore...
I want to do some burnouts too, but with the snow and studded tires it will have to wait.
-Owen
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I want to do some burnouts too, but with the snow and studded tires it will have to wait.
Tell me about it.. ::) I appreciate my winter tires, but will be elated to to yank them off any time now!
That sounds like the radiator I need.. The one in there isn't that old, but when crack motor spit out it's last HG 4 or 5 of the rows in the core puffed up.. :o Amazingly the darned thing isn't leaking yet, but I'm not taking chances with this money pit engine I been putting together..
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if you want I can send it to you, might need some cash for it though, I paid a mint for it when I got it...
-Owen
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well, I got the brake booster pump installed today, forgot how nice it is to have power brakes.
I also got the bypass valve hooked up to a truck transmission splitter mounted on the shifter, and it works great!
in the low range position it bypasses boost, and in the high range position it closes the valve allowing boost.
the obnoxious whine almost completely disappears when the bypass valve is open, which makes me much happier about driving it around town/to work.
I found a perfect wheelbarrow to make a scoop out of for $40 at lowes.
I think all I will need to do is narrow it, the shape is almost perfect.
-Owen
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You'll use a freakin wheel barrow, but not a mailbox?!?!? ;D
That's actually a brilliant idea.. I gotta keep that in mind...
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Sweet the redneck idea I gave is going to be put into motion. That wheel barrow will take a beating that sheet metal would cringe at :D
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yeah, the more I thought about a wheelbarrow the more I wanted to do it!
its actually a really great shape, especially after being narrowed.
should be pretty easy to modify too, and being steel it will easily become a permanent part of the hood and be less likely to have trouble in the cold.
-Owen
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I drove the car around a bit yesterday, and it feels like the motor with its new found torque is pushing through the torque converter.
hit the throttle, and the revs climb, far beyond what was normal before, and the car then accelerates to match(with revs staying almost the same)
does not feel like the transmission is slipping, just like the torque converter is being spun beyond its stall speed.
probably wont hurt much, other than running really hot, which I can combat with an external oil cooler.
and when I do get around to replacing the transmission, I will get one with a lockup converter.
-Owen
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DAMN!!!
I broke the return manifold while doing the injectors!
(http://i229.photobucket.com/albums/ee139/truckinwagen/phone%20pics/IMAG0242.jpg)
(http://i229.photobucket.com/albums/ee139/truckinwagen/phone%20pics/IMAG0243.jpg)
now I gotta figure out how to get them back together, brazing would be the right way.
wonder if there is any local help to fix it...
-Owen
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got the injectors cleaned up, surprised the motor ran as god as it did!
they were all loose in the head(part of why the return line got broken) and the tips look terrible.
they are very blued from heat:
(http://i229.photobucket.com/albums/ee139/truckinwagen/phone%20pics/IMAG0244.jpg)
and the erosion around the nozzle is quite bad(the large dark area is worn down alot)
(http://i229.photobucket.com/albums/ee139/truckinwagen/phone%20pics/IMAG0245.jpg)
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Ouch!! What if you drilled the short piece out the same size as the tube. Cut a piece off the longer tube and soldered / brazed it in.
Then use a short piece of rubber line in between for the correct length. Just a thought to get you back on the road for now.
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well, it looks like the tube is all copper, and the rings are steel,and the whole lot os brazed/soldered together.
so I am gonna heat it all up to melt the braze/solder to disassemble it, and solder in some new hoses between the rings.
if I can find copper the right size I will do that, but if not I will use some brake line(not as easy to bend, but should work nonetheless)
-Owen
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See if you can find some of that Nicop brake line.. IT bends like soft copper, but is indeed brake line.. Awesome stuff!
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(http://i229.photobucket.com/albums/ee139/truckinwagen/phone%20pics/IMAG0246.jpg)
got it sorted, I cut off drilled out and then soldered in nipples made out of 3/16" brake line.
should work OK, as its not under any pressure.
-Owen
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got the injectors back in, and put the starter I bought from the guy on the other forum(gonna have the shop replace the solenoid, which I think is the problem, and put it on the shelf for later)
fired it up(and guess what, the starter worked) and it idles sooooooo much better now, nice and smooth.
have not taken it for a drive yet, I am in the process of replacing the seat, which was so worn out that it stopped staying upright(wanted to recline all the time) with one of the plastic bucket seats I bought years ago for the green rabbit.
eventually I will replace the passenger one too, and remove the rear seat, never use it anyway, and the space could better be used to house a stereo of some sort.
-Owen
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Well, gonna pull the supercharger.
The belt drive needs work(already shredding its first belt) and I don't have the time to work on it right now. So it will go back to being NA for a bit.
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That's too bad, going from power to no power's gotta be a bummer........
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yeah, well, it will be going back on soon.
it just needs some work, a little refinement, but I am spending weekends in Homer for a while, so it will have to wait.
-Owen
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well, I took off the supercharger, the box on top of the car, I took all the tools and spare parts out of the trunk and gave it a good once over with the pressure washer.
then I drove 220 miles to Homer(sitting in Homer right now) and it got 33MPG on the drive down.
not too bad, even with winter fuel, and hard rolling winter tires.
probably will get 40 or so in the summer on that drive.
happy to say that nothing went wrong on the drive down, and dont expect anything to go wrong on the way back up.
the little rig is in alot better shape than I thought...
-Owen
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Great thread, that sc is epic.
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well, alternator ate itself... ...Again!
the regulator failed, causing it to overcharge and burn the windings, so it is being rebuilt locally.
trouble is that the regulator is special, and NLA.
so it is being rebuilt as a one wire alt(not my first choice, but it will get the job done) and I will have to do some wiring to fool the alarm system into thinking that the alt is still stock.
I am working on the turbo for this thing, it will sit nicely under the hood with no modifications, and should be much more streetable than the supercharger(which will find its way back on occasionally I am sure)
I am looking for a local vendor of weldable steel pipe elbows(shipping is killer from all the online vendors) but ran into some luck, it seems that OBX is making mild steel inlet flanges for the K26!
so all I need to do now is find out if the outlet flange is the same as any other turbo(K24, T3 etc...) so I can get a flange ordered up for that, which means that the only flange I need to make is the one for the head!
I took the exhaust manifold off the other day to pull the gasket(so I can make a pattern for the flange) and all the bolts came out! no penetrating oil, no breaker bar, and best of all, no broken bolts!
the threads have no corrosion on them at all!, I could not believe it!
gotta love a car that is this nice to you!
-Owen
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got a new set of seats the other day for $50
they are from an integra or something like that, and are way better than the crap seats that were in my car from the factory.
the years have not been good to my seats, the back was all bent and the foam worn out, the new ones are much better, with bolsters, adjustable lumbar support, all that.
almost a direct drop in too, just had to move the mounts on one side.
(http://i229.photobucket.com/albums/ee139/truckinwagen/phone%20pics/IMAG0273.jpg)
(old on the left, new on the right)
I only had time to mount one today, but it is so much better. I will get around to the passenger one soon.
-Owen
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got a new set of seats the other day for $50
they are from an integra or something like that, and are way better than the crap seats that were in my car from the factory.
the years have not been good to my seats, the back was all bent and the foam worn out, the new ones are much better, with bolsters, adjustable lumbar support, all that.
almost a direct drop in too, just had to move the mounts on one side.
(http://i229.photobucket.com/albums/ee139/truckinwagen/phone%20pics/IMAG0273.jpg)
(old on the left, new on the right)
I only had time to mount one today, but it is so much better. I will get around to the passenger one soon.
-Owen
i cruised around for about 2 weeks with 2 different seats in my rabbit.. i only had enough time to mount one, then the next time i had enough time, was about 2 weeks later.. lol.
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just got my summer tires slapped on
(http://i229.photobucket.com/albums/ee139/truckinwagen/phone%20pics/IMAG0284.jpg)
(http://i229.photobucket.com/albums/ee139/truckinwagen/phone%20pics/IMAG0285.jpg)
(http://i229.photobucket.com/albums/ee139/truckinwagen/phone%20pics/IMAG0286.jpg)
they are 195-55-15 in the front and 215-60-16 in the rear.
the rear is aired up right now cause when aired out the rear rubs pretty bad.
I need to get some spacers and roll the fenders pretty bad.
the front is gonna go way down.
the rear tucks about 2 inches of tire aired down, so I want to lower the front to tuck about 1.5" of tire to match.
-Owen
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holy crap, that things way up in the air, almost as bad as my 86 GTI with 185/70s on it..
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like I said, it is aired all the way up, its gonna come about four inches down in a few weeks.
-Owen
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Super cool build man. Sits as high as my Jetta with 205/40R17's!
(http://i1205.photobucket.com/albums/bb425/Blackbird82/car.jpg)
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updates!!!
got the nitrous and water/meth hooked up today,
(http://i229.photobucket.com/albums/ee139/truckinwagen/phone%20pics/IMAG0292.jpg)
nitrous bottle on left, water pump in middle, 2.5 gallon reservoir on right.
(http://i229.photobucket.com/albums/ee139/truckinwagen/phone%20pics/IMAG0290.jpg)
water/meth solenoids
(http://i229.photobucket.com/albums/ee139/truckinwagen/phone%20pics/IMAG0289.jpg)
nitrous solenoid
(http://i229.photobucket.com/albums/ee139/truckinwagen/phone%20pics/IMAG0291.jpg)
arming switches illuminated when on
(http://i229.photobucket.com/albums/ee139/truckinwagen/phone%20pics/IMAG0287.jpg)
(http://i229.photobucket.com/albums/ee139/truckinwagen/phone%20pics/IMAG0288.jpg)
WOT switch to fire the nitrous
the nitrous is triggered by the WOT switch and the water is triggered by EGT(on @ 1050* off at 1000*)
I had two nozzles hooked up to the water at first, but when triggered the motor bogged pretty bad after a bit(the water put out the flame front) so I cut it back to just one.
now the water spray does not seem to have much effect on EGT
the nozzles are 300CC/min so I may have to get some different sizes and mix and match to get what I want.
the nitrous does not seem to do much either, but I think the bottle is empty.
it does dispel some gas when triggered, but no visible spray... so I think I will go have it filled on monday before I make any final decisions.
I need to do some more tuning, but the hard work is done!
-Owen
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it should make a huge, white cloud.. just like when they purge the drag cars at the track. its probably empty. thats how my bottle reacted..
even on a n/a, when my bottle was full(ish) you could still feel it add some power to the stock engine..
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yeah, I figured as much...
anyway, pretty happy about how the install went, even if I dint have it working yet.
-Owen
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well, the water i still too much for the motor.
even under a hard pull at 1100*(which takes a HUGE cloud of smoke to achieve) the motor will start to bog down after a few seconds.
I think this is because being NA there is no heat in the intake for the water to absorb, so it is taking a bunch of heat away from the flame front and extinguishing it.
so the water/meth will wait for the upcoming forced induction
high EGT are really not a big issue right now, I get more smoke than I like to trail around long before EGT gets out of control, and the car will easily run out of road before I hit 1100* anyway.
hoping that the nitrous will help in the power department, not for all the time, but I would like to lay the smack down on a few people...
-Owen
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Glad to see you got your nitrous system installed. What size jet are you running?
I've found a few good uses for nitrous in daily driving, my favorite is for the guy that cuts you off. A little shot to pass then turn off switch,
and lay down some smoke, turn switch back on and wait for them to pull out to pass!!! ;D
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not sure what size jet I will run, starting with a .040 for testing.
gonna try to keep myself under control(read switch off) for daily driving, but at the local weekly GTG it will be On Like Donkey Kong!
I'll keep you all posted with the results
P.S.
also hoping the nitrous will let the car brake the tires loose on the brake for a burnout.
-Owen
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According to some of the jet calculators I've seen online a .040 jet is just shy of 75 hp.
I started with a .024=25hp then went to a .028=35hp and am currently running a .032=50hp.
These are real general hp figures as every one's tune is different.
Be sure to get some pics of the burnout.
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not sure what size jet I will run, starting with a .040 for testing.
gonna try to keep myself under control(read switch off) for daily driving, but at the local weekly GTG it will be On Like Donkey Kong!
I'll keep you all posted with the results
P.S.
also hoping the nitrous will let the car brake the tires loose on the brake for a burnout.
-Owen
i would start with a smaller jet than that.. my engine had nitrous knock with an 032 jet..
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from all the reading I have done it looks like too much nitrous on a diesel is not an issue.
it will just consume all the nitrous it can and the rest will just go out the exhaust(which can cause a nitrous backfire, but thats only any trouble if you have a turbo)
I am gonna tune to still have some smoke on the spray, so I am sure all the nitrous is being used.
-Owen
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from all the reading I have done it looks like too much nitrous on a diesel is not an issue.
it will just consume all the nitrous it can and the rest will just go out the exhaust(which can cause a nitrous backfire, but thats only any trouble if you have a turbo)
I am gonna tune to still have some smoke on the spray, so I am sure all the nitrous is being used.
-Owen
may not be an issue on a diesel, but there is no reason to start with such a big jet, and waste it.. and trust me, your engine will start making weird noises when you have too much nitrous going to it. it will start popping, and knocking like its detonating.. may not damage it, but they are un-pleasant noises..
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Yeah, I'm gonna back the jet off a bit. Just found out that nitrous is $9 per pound up here...
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Yeah, I'm gonna back the jet off a bit. Just found out that nitrous is $9 per pound up here...
HOLY CRAP! and i thought it was rape @ 5$/#
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Yeah, I'm gonna back the jet off a bit. Just found out that nitrous is $9 per pound up here...
Still $5 a lb here, but I get 56 lb bottles from a welding shop for about $3 a lb.
Had to buy the first bottle full for about $300 and just trade empty for full. Last 1 was $160 out the door.
You can gravity flow if you freeze little bottle and heat mother bottle, just need a -4an line and a adapter for mother bottle.
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Yeah, I'm gonna back the jet off a bit. Just found out that nitrous is $9 per pound up here...
Still $5 a lb here, but I get 56 lb bottles from a welding shop for about $3 a lb.
Had to buy the first bottle full for about $300 and just trade empty for full. Last 1 was $160 out the door.
You can gravity flow if you freeze little bottle and heat mother bottle, just need a -4an line and a adapter for mother bottle.
then i will probably be going this route.. my dad gets GOOD DEALS on gas at the industrial supply store here.. basically the same procedure to refill nitrous as it is to re-fill a propane tank huh? (the little green ones) how would you go about heating a big bottle tho? wrap an electric blanket around it? lol..
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I might to the same when I go to my new place, where I will have space for it.
do the big bottles have siphon tubes in them too?(so you get liquid and not gas pulled into the little bottle)
have to figure out a way to get big bottles without a pickup though...
still waiting on my bottle to be filled, the shop I dropped it off at didn't realize they only had 3LB in their big bottle, and are still waiting for a new one to be delivered.
-Owen
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Yeah, I'm gonna back the jet off a bit. Just found out that nitrous is $9 per pound up here...
Still $5 a lb here, but I get 56 lb bottles from a welding shop for about $3 a lb.
Had to buy the first bottle full for about $300 and just trade empty for full. Last 1 was $160 out the door.
You can gravity flow if you freeze little bottle and heat mother bottle, just need a -4an line and a adapter for mother bottle.
then i will probably be going this route.. my dad gets GOOD DEALS on gas at the industrial supply store here.. basically the same procedure to refill nitrous as it is to re-fill a propane tank huh? (the little green ones) how would you go about heating a big bottle tho? wrap an electric blanket around it? lol..
Electric blanket, set outside in the sun, hairdryer, torpedo heater, heated shop, whatever is most convenient and least expensive.
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I might to the same when I go to my new place, where I will have space for it.
do the big bottles have siphon tubes in them too?(so you get liquid and not gas pulled into the little bottle)
have to figure out a way to get big bottles without a pickup though...
still waiting on my bottle to be filled, the shop I dropped it off at didn't realize they only had 3LB in their big bottle, and are still waiting for a new one to be delivered.
-Owen
I have not had one with a siphon tube in it yet. I was told the bottles with siphon tubes have a white line down the side.
The ones I get have to be inverted to work, picked up a stand for cheap that screws on bottle threads.
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I might to the same when I go to my new place, where I will have space for it.
do the big bottles have siphon tubes in them too?(so you get liquid and not gas pulled into the little bottle)
have to figure out a way to get big bottles without a pickup though...
still waiting on my bottle to be filled, the shop I dropped it off at didn't realize they only had 3LB in their big bottle, and are still waiting for a new one to be delivered.
-Owen
I have not had one with a siphon tube in it yet. I was told the bottles with siphon tubes have a white line down the side.
The ones I get have to be inverted to work, picked up a stand for cheap that screws on bottle threads.
i bet thats a handy lil stand.. and a great way of attaching it too..
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I figured they would have to be inverted if they did not have a siphon tube...
anyway, I changed my jet to a .020 to start with.
have to see how it does when I get my bottle back.
-Owen
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got the bottle back, turns out the jet I had in was a .026(the smallest I have)
not sure yet, still need to do some tuning.
it stumbles with nitrous until about 2500RPM(will actually stall if too low) and I run into my high RPM timing stumble at 3500RPM...
it does pull a little harder on spray, but not as much as I would like to see.
gonna turn the fuel up and see if that helps things along.
gonna also install the soft advance spring and the clearanced timing spring cover to help with the high rpm timing issue.
wish I could get a smaller jet local(the smallest I can get is the .026) to help with a burnout as the converter stalls at 2000RPM, and if I spray it will just stumble.
-Owen
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I might to the same when I go to my new place, where I will have space for it.
do the big bottles have siphon tubes in them too?(so you get liquid and not gas pulled into the little bottle)
have to figure out a way to get big bottles without a pickup though...
still waiting on my bottle to be filled, the shop I dropped it off at didn't realize they only had 3LB in their big bottle, and are still waiting for a new one to be delivered.
-Owen
I have not had one with a siphon tube in it yet. I was told the bottles with siphon tubes have a white line down the side.
The ones I get have to be inverted to work, picked up a stand for cheap that screws on bottle threads.
i bet thats a handy lil stand.. and a great way of attaching it too..
Heres one like I use, found one for $20 tho.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Nitrous-Express-15930-Bottle-Stand-JEGS-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem2eb473d7eaQQitemZ200595986410QQptZOtherQ5fVehicleQ5fParts
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well, turned up the fuel which helped alot.
pulls pretty hard now, and does not splutter if I hit the nitrous on the footbrake for a burnout.
but unfortunately it wont brake the tires loose as of yet.
it will eventually(more tuning to come)
I went ahead and installed the soft green advance spring and clearanced cover.
the isuzu spring seemed the same as the soft VW one, but the clearanced cover will certainly help.
I have not had a chance to take it through its paces since the changes though, so I will have to report back about performance.
pulling the isuzu pump really makes me miss my VW...
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Good to hear your making progress, had me worried with the sputtering but I've never had to deal with a automatic trans.
I think the automatic would be awesome for when you get your turbo on (spool up turbo when you power-brake). Did you see any change in egt's?
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not really, but it is hard to tell, when I floor it the trans shifts itself.
it does stop smoking on the juice, might increase the fuel to make sure I am taking complete advantage of it.
-Owen
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Yeah keep a little smoke, that way you know your not wasting nitrous.
Also I read somewhere the other day about retarding the pump on a diesel just like a gasser when using nitrous.
I've never tried it on the caddy tho.
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well, my car was retarded(to the point of stumbling) past 3500RPM, and the nitrous did nothing for that, so I would disregard that.
in fact, I would think that advance would be your friend(to a point) just like it is whenever power is the goal.
hopefully my high RPM stumble will be fixed, and I can see what this thing will do on a hard pull all the way through the gears on nitrous!
I would really love to have a manual(or even a manual valve body to give me control of what gear its in) and may get there someday, but for now I will just have to tune it to work with an auto.
its sad, this car would be a real screamer with a manual trans(manual ones got 55+ MPG, mine is lucky to get 30) the auto just sucks so much power from it.
now an overdrive auto with a lockup converter, yes please! all the fun of full throttle shifting and brake staging with none of the lost power or mileage(almost anyway) sign me up.
gonna try for a 200-4R sometime this summer.
-Owen
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I found where I read about retarding timing, guess its only when adding lots of nitrous.
http://www.nitrous.info/diesel-nitrous.htm
How does your trans get a signal to shift(tv cable or vacumn modulator). Could it be adjusted for higher shift points?
I unhooked the vacumn line on my drag cars turbo 350 and it won't shift till about 5500 rpm's unless I shift manually.
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its a TV cable(no vacuum on the diesel)
problem is, if I disconnect it and leave it loose, I can manually shift it but the line pressure will be low(idle) which will trash the trans in short order.
if I disconnect and pull the TV cable tight the line pressure will be up(like a vac actuator that is left unhooked) but without a manual valve body, the transmission will want to stay in the low gear until 5K regardless of shifter position.
no real way around it, if it was a GM tranmission(or a ford or chrysler for that matter) I could get a different valve body to act the way I want, but since its an Aisin-Warner, there is no aftermarket for it.
I guess it would be possible to pull the valve body and modify it, but thats alot of work and I'm not sure what would have to be done to it anyway.
if I get and install a 200-4R I get the overdrive, lockup converter, and I can buy a reverse pattern manual valve body for it, so all the TV cable does is control line pressure.
couple that with a ratchet shifter and it would be quite fun to drive!
-Owen
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Are there any adapters out there for that engine?? IF there was something out there to get you to a SBC bell housing, a T-5 might not be that far out of the picture... ;D
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nope, no adapters. but one could be made.
trouble is, I don't have access to any parts from a manual version of this car(pedal cluster, shifter parts, etc...) and fabricating those from scratch would be a large undertaking.
putting in an auto with a manual valve body would be much easier, and almost as good.
-Owen
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its a TV cable(no vacuum on the diesel)
problem is, if I disconnect it and leave it loose, I can manually shift it but the line pressure will be low(idle) which will trash the trans in short order.
if I disconnect and pull the TV cable tight the line pressure will be up(like a vac actuator that is left unhooked) but without a manual valve body, the transmission will want to stay in the low gear until 5K regardless of shifter position.
no real way around it, if it was a GM tranmission(or a ford or chrysler for that matter) I could get a different valve body to act the way I want, but since its an Aisin-Warner, there is no aftermarket for it.
I guess it would be possible to pull the valve body and modify it, but thats alot of work and I'm not sure what would have to be done to it anyway.
if I get and install a 200-4R I get the overdrive, lockup converter, and I can buy a reverse pattern manual valve body for it, so all the TV cable does is control line pressure.
couple that with a ratchet shifter and it would be quite fun to drive!
-Owen
what model trans is it? my toyota pickup had an aisin-warner (A-43 or something like that) 4 speed slusho-matic trans, lock up converter and overdrive.. that thing got BETTER mileage than a 5 speed truck. it was 2wd, but none the less, those trannies are awesome. the stock converter stalls somewhere around 2k rpms, i always thought they would be awesome with a diesel in front of them.
might be something worth looking into, i KNOW that those aisin-warner toyota 2wd trannies are tough, and fairly efficient.
these 1.8L engines are different bell pattern from the 2.2L engines arent they?
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Didn't think about pedals and whatnot.. T-5 would have you covered on the shifter, but woudl probably have some goofey ratios for a diesel... Auto would probably be easier all the way around, once you got one that was tuneable.. Do you happen to know which model trans that is?? And as Kevin mentioned, it's not out of the question anymore to get better mileage with an auto..
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I think its an A-25 or something like that, but I can check tonight when I get home.
I would.really like to use a trans that I can put a manual valve body on, so I can choose manually what gear it is in regardless of conditions.
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well, if you want a full manual valve body, a turbo 350 would be cheap to get, and easy as hell to get parts for, but it may be hard to fit it in the trans tunnel. i believe the bell housing was removable on my toyota metric warner trans also..
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problem is that the THM350(and the THM400 and THM200 for that matter) is a three speed, and I would really like to have a four speed if I can.
the 200-4R, and 700-4R both have manual valve bodies available.
the 700 is easier to find, but is bigger than I need, and the 200 has better gear spread.
gonna keep my eye out for a good used 200-4R and get a manual valve body for it and make an adapter plate.
-Owen
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the transmission is an aisin-warner 03-55
and yes the bellhousings are different on the 1.8 and 2.2
I have heard that the bellhousing is the same as the 1.8 gas isuzu, but they are just as hard to find as the diesels, so..
and the timing advance mods worked!
it will pull all the way to 5K with no stumble, it does drop power pretty significantly after 4K, but some nitrous or FI should help that out.
all in all its running better than ever now, I have it tuned for as much fuel as it can deliver without a hanging idle(already done the throttle spline mod and the governor mod) with the boost pin in the no-boost position.
smokes pretty good at WOT with the nitrous off,and still a bit with the nitrous on.
it will smoke like a tire fire with the boost pin at the full-boost position, so there is plenty of room for fuel with the turbo/supercharger.
-Owen
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:o
(http://i229.photobucket.com/albums/ee139/truckinwagen/phone%20pics/IMAG0293.jpg)
-Owen
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SWEET!!!! It's a start anyhow... ;D
One other advantage to the 2004R, lightweight internals reduce parasitic losses...
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yep, and the option of a higher stall converter for launches, and still keeping fuel economy with the lockup.
I bet if I didn't have the oversize tires it would have roasted them with no trouble.
-Owen
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problem is that the THM350(and the THM400 and THM200 for that matter) is a three speed, and I would really like to have a four speed if I can.
the 200-4R, and 700-4R both have manual valve bodies available.
the 700 is easier to find, but is bigger than I need, and the 200 has better gear spread.
gonna keep my eye out for a good used 200-4R and get a manual valve body for it and make an adapter plate.
-Owen
the older 2wd S10 pickups got 200R4 trannies i think..
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some did, most got the THM180(like a light weight THM200)
all the local junkyards dont have any, I think my only hope of finding one is to have one shipped up from the states...
-Owen
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too bad the 2.2 has a different bell pattern, the S10s and luvs had isuzu motors. dunno what trans tho.. i know some came with autos.
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the 2.2 auto got a THM200, or an Aisin Warner three speed.
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the 2.2 auto got a THM200, or an Aisin Warner three speed.
well, looks like your SOL for now then.
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Would a manual trans from a Chevette (Diesel) be a direct swap?
Brendan
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yes it would, but I would need the pedal cluster, all the clutch parts, FW, etc. to go with it, otherwise it becomes a big swap.
why do you ask, did you find one?
-Owen
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yes it would, but I would need the pedal cluster, all the clutch parts, FW, etc. to go with it, otherwise it becomes a big swap.
-Owen
so, basically you would have to find a Kadett with a manual, and pull all the specific parts.. i doubt Kadett parts are easy to find on their own like VW parts are..
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yeah, pretty much would need a manual car to pull the parts off of(and at that point why not just throw my motor in the manual car, instead of swapping all the other stuff...)
-Owen
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yeah, pretty much would need a manual car to pull the parts off of(and at that point why not just throw my motor in the manual car, instead of swapping all the other stuff...)
-Owen
should just find someone with a manual car with a fresh engine that wants to almost give it away ;)
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yes it would, but I would need the pedal cluster, all the clutch parts, FW, etc. to go with it, otherwise it becomes a big swap.
why do you ask, did you find one?
-Owen
No, but I have seen quite a few in my days, actually, I'd say 90% of all Chevetts I have seen were Diesel, and I think all of them were manual. Been a while since I have seen one though. But if I do, I'll let you know. :)
Brendan
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well, considering that they only made 500 or so diesel chevettes(and even less i-marks) I wont hold my breath for one that is good for a swap.
-Owen
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Wow seriously??? That's crazy. I knew a friend in college that had 7 of them. ::)
Brendan
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yeah, they didn't sell very well, but they did seem to end up all together in the end.
I think even a manual from a gasser chevette would work(would need the flywheel machined to fit the crank) but I have only seen two gasser chevettes up here and they are still on the road.
-Owen
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Talking 4-speeds or 5? Pretty sure the gasser Chevette 5-speeds were all T-5's. I thought the Diesel versions used some sort of Isuzu trans?
I owned a Chevette for like a week. Found out it had a bad head gasket and I junked it. That was before I knew anything about cars though. :P
Brendan
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the gas manual will fit on a diesel, but the flywheel is wrong(diesel flywheel is too big to fit in a gasser bellhousing, and gasser flywheel does not bolt up the the crank)
there is a bellhousing that mates with the diesel and allows a manual(T-5, etc...) but they are made of unobtanium, and I would still need a pedal cluster.
-Owen
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been having some trouble with my new tires rubbing the air lines to my shocks through, resulting in massive tire rub.
so I have been riding my bike to work(too exhausted to work on the car after the day)
finally got the rear end back up in the air, still needs to be fixed right, but it will drive without shredding the tires on every bump for now.
I got the oil feed/drain fittings, as well as a remote filter adapter, which will allow me to put the filter upright.
the stock filter is on its side, which is a real pain when it comes to oil change time.
the new filter adapter has a couple outlets on it that can be used to tap into the oil supply, I plan on feeding the turbo with one.
still need to find a fitting for the return line on the pan, I am looking for a fitting that I dont have to weld in(a fitting that bolted through with a nut would be great) but I am having trouble finding one.
ordered a new vacuum switch to control the brake pump(the old one was intermittent) so I will soon have power brakes again, and also in preparation of re-installing the supercharger.
I dont work for a high end conservative retailer anymore, I am a carpenter for a construction company, so I think I can get away with not having a hood for a while(or I can ride my bike, it is summer after all)
anyway, I will take and post pics as these things find there way onto the car.
-Owen
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also played with the nitrous for a while again today, had lots of fun, and noticed a few things.
the nitrous adds the same amount of power throughout the RPM range, say 25HP.
that extra HP feels like alot at low RPM, when the motor is not making much power by itself, but when the engine revs up and makes more power naturally that extra 25 ponies does not feel like so much.
as the RPM rises the nitrous adds less % of total power output.
so, I was thinking about running a second stage, triggered by engine speed, to kick in and bring that % of output added back up.
maybe an auber tach(with controllable trigger point) with an induction trigger(or simply figure out how many pulses per rev the stock isuzu sender produces) to control this second injection, still triggered by WOT.
got to thinking about this on the highway, where the nitrous did not seem to add much, while taking off from a start it really kicks the motor in the butt(very nearly breaks the tires loose)
-Owen
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the gas manual will fit on a diesel, but the flywheel is wrong(diesel flywheel is too big to fit in a gasser bellhousing, and gasser flywheel does not bolt up the the crank)
there is a bellhousing that mates with the diesel and allows a manual(T-5, etc...) but they are made of unobtanium, and I would still need a pedal cluster.
-Owen
what about one of the Ford Ranger diesel of the 80's? they had a T5 with a bigger bellhousing.
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thats probably where the unobtanium one came from.
very few of those trucks around, and most of the ones not on the road were crushed.
-Owen
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the gas manual will fit on a diesel, but the flywheel is wrong(diesel flywheel is too big to fit in a gasser bellhousing, and gasser flywheel does not bolt up the the crank)
there is a bellhousing that mates with the diesel and allows a manual(T-5, etc...) but they are made of unobtanium, and I would still need a pedal cluster.
-Owen
what about one of the Ford Ranger diesel of the 80's? they had a T5 with a bigger bellhousing.
they were also mitsubishi 2.3TD powered..
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Can this setup work for you?
http://portland.craigslist.org/mlt/pts/2395291099.html (http://portland.craigslist.org/mlt/pts/2395291099.html).
Not mine.
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that would fit, but thats only the engine and trans. he still needs pedals and all that fun crap..
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wow, thats a good deal, but out of my neck of the woods and bad timing(moving next weekend)
gonna just live with it for now, got 40MPG on a trip to homer this weekend(includes a couple mountain passes, and lots of passing motorhomes) so I think I can stop ***ing for a while.
-Owen
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goodness, its been awhile since I did anything but drive my car...
been moving, started a new job(working 50+ hours a week) and such, but back to going fast!
I just ordered a bunch of stuff from Jegs!
-lots of AN fittings and hose for a remote oil filter/cooler setup and feed/drain for the turbo
-an immersion oil heater that goes inside the oil pan(should be enough room) to help with the winter
-an oil separator for the crank breather
I also just got an oil cooler from a local guy for $5
gonna use a -10 AN bulkhead fitting with some o-rings to tap the oil pan for the turbo return(dont want to weld on the pan if I can, really dont want to risk warping it as I cant get another)
gonna try to make the turbo manifold soon too, and mount the supercharger agin too.
pics and updates to come as things happen.
-Owen
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just ordered the silicone couplers to install the intercooler and turbo along with the supercharger.
I am gonna try to have the car twin-charged by the 25th, when there is a local car show.
-Owen
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just ordered the silicone couplers to install the intercooler and turbo along with the supercharger.
I am gonna try to have the car twin-charged by the 25th, when there is a local car show.
-Owen
That would be cool, how much boost do you figure that engine will hold?
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not really sure, but it has an iron head, MLS gasket, pretty robust bottom end, etc...
I'm gonna shoot for 30-ish for now and see how it does, then ramp it up from there.
-Owen
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got the boost pin cut today!
Before:
(http://i229.photobucket.com/albums/ee139/truckinwagen/phone%20pics/IMAG0317.jpg)
After:
(http://i229.photobucket.com/albums/ee139/truckinwagen/phone%20pics/IMAG0319.jpg)
(http://i229.photobucket.com/albums/ee139/truckinwagen/phone%20pics/IMAG0318.jpg)
gonna control smoke by changing the spring under the diaphragm.
the ramp goes past center of the pin to take full advantage of the pin travel in my isuzu pump( past center of the hole) which means I cant take full advantage of the travel with an offset cone...
also got a couple boxes of fittings, need to wait for one more before I can start installing all the goodies!
also scored some steel from the scrap yard at work, so the turbo manifold will be a modified log manifold for now, it will not be the best design, and will probably get changed sometime in the future, but it will do considering the time and monetary constraints on the project right now.
hoping to have a turbo hanging off the side of the motor by monday!
-Owen
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got the supercharger installed today!
much more refined than before, but same concept.
my new oil filler to clear the charger:
(http://i229.photobucket.com/albums/ee139/truckinwagen/phone%20pics/IMAG0320.jpg)
I also moved the breather to the side of the valve cover(just a barb fitting tapped into the VC)
and my new JEGS breather oil seperator:
(http://i229.photobucket.com/albums/ee139/truckinwagen/phone%20pics/IMAG0321.jpg)
seems to work well so far, it has a clear bowl with a drain fitting on the bottom.
and it all comes apart so you can clean the insides when it is really nasty.
the new boost pin is working great, a little too much smoke on boost at first, but I changed the spring for a stiffer one, and now all is good.
and I can do burnouts now!
left foot on brake, right foot to floor, and turn on the nitrous once the revs come up, tires brake loose!
didn't do a very big one(grocery store parking lot) but I am heading to a car show tomorrow(and another next weekend) so I will hopefully have some video to show you all soon!
-Owen
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Great progress.
Did you get any videos?
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no videos of burnouts, not even any pics.
I went to get my nitrous bottle refilled on friday, and they didn't finish with it until five minutes before they closed.
the shop was not open on saturday, so no burnouts for me...
just had a setback too.
my vac pump relay went out, so my bypass valve stuck closed(full boost) and driving all the way home at highway speeds at full boost shredded the belt...
the air cleaner adapter I made up for the charger(the one made out of lexan) failed due to vibrations, so the last part of my drive home was sans aircleaner(not far, but still not fun)
so I need to make a more permanent(read, metal) inlet adapter for the charger, and install the spring loaded tensioner so running at full boost for extended periods of time wont shred the belt.
also on the list is to install the intercooler, it never ends.
to add to the fun, I am heading down to Homer this weekend for my sisters wedding, so I wont get anything done for a while...
-Owen
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Ouch. Sorry for the bad news about your ride. Sometimes its trial and error with things like your build, but now you know. :).
Still would like to see the updates as progress is made.
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I will certainly keep you all updated, but it may take a while.
I need to do some work on the bike too...
-Owen
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got some more done today!
charger is back on, and new tensioner is up and running.
it first went together like this:
(http://i229.photobucket.com/albums/ee139/truckinwagen/phone%20pics/IMAG0348.jpg)
but I decided that the second idler was unnecessary, and cumbersome, so I removed it:
(http://i229.photobucket.com/albums/ee139/truckinwagen/phone%20pics/IMAG0349.jpg)
it works much better than before, still think it needs work, but what to do to make it better will come to me in time.
the only issue I have is that the tensioner will invariably tighten until it is at the stop(no matter how tight I make it) so that it does not have any adjustment to automatically take up slack as the belt stretches.
so we will see how long this belt lasts until it shreds, I'll make some changes then.
-Owen
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can you not get a shorter belt? or move the tensioner closer to the belt?
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the only shorter belt is too short to even get over the crank and charger pulleys.
as for moving the tensioner, I will probably do that, but again, after this one meets its demise.
-Owen
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got some more done!
intercooler is now intalled(need to tidy up a bit, but it is in and running)
(http://i229.photobucket.com/albums/ee139/truckinwagen/phone%20pics/IMAG0366.jpg)
(http://i229.photobucket.com/albums/ee139/truckinwagen/phone%20pics/IMAG0367.jpg)
(http://i229.photobucket.com/albums/ee139/truckinwagen/phone%20pics/IMAG0368.jpg)
(http://i229.photobucket.com/albums/ee139/truckinwagen/phone%20pics/IMAG0369.jpg)
(http://i229.photobucket.com/albums/ee139/truckinwagen/phone%20pics/IMAG0370.jpg)
Im not a huge fan of the coupler on the intake manifold, I need to get another 45* coupler to straighten in out properly.
EGT is down about 300* on a long pull, and the piping after is too hot to touch before the intercooler, and cool to the touch after it.
-Owen
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EGT's down 300 with just an intercooler. Looks like thats my next move then!!!
Did you notice any more power?
That thing looks CRAZY COOL Owen. ;D
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EGT's down 300 with just an intercooler. Looks like thats my next move then!!!
Did you notice any more power?
That thing looks CRAZY COOL Owen. ;D
yes, less boost and more power..
intercooler inlet piping gets burning hot, outlet side, and intake manifold are all cool to touch..
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It's a little hard to say about more power... I can certainly stay in the throttle longer which makes the car faster, but it does not feel any more powerful than before.
Does not pull harder, just longer.
And the 300* drop is because I was so hugely out of the charters efficiency range that I was pumping some seriously hot air into my motor.
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any thoughts on doing a Super-turbo? :D
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that is my eventual goal, but time and money constraints have kept the turbo on the shelf(literally, it is sitting on a shelf)
the plan is to have the supercharger take up the low end(where the rather large turbo would have trouble spooling) and then open the bypass when the turbo has woken up, to retain some efficiency on the top end.
all of this will come, in time.
-Owen
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well in the mean time....more videos
that is my eventual goal, but time and money constraints have kept the turbo on the shelf(literally, it is sitting on a shelf)
the plan is to have the supercharger take up the low end(where the rather large turbo would have trouble spooling) and then open the bypass when the turbo has woken up, to retain some efficiency on the top end.
all of this will come, in time.
-Owen
you should look at getting a clutch for the super charger (benz kompressor) so you dont have to spin it while the turbo is alive..
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there is no clutched pulley small enough(I am going to a 1.9") for my charger.
it has a bypass valve in it that effectively removes the charger from the intake, so all it does is spin. according to Eaton, the charger only takes 1/3HP to spin in bypass mode at 6000 engine RPM.
the other issue with a clutched pulley is that it introduces huge load spikes to the drive belt when engaging, which might shear the woodruff key on the crank.
-Owen
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having (more) troubles with my glow plug system...
computer that controls them went tits up, and now I cant get the dropping resistor to work right...(stupid 6 volt glow plugs)
so I went looking into intake heaters.
not alot around except for the cummins ones, which are big money and even bigger draw on the battery(400 amps or something stupid like that)
so I did some research and found this on a cummins 4BTA swap forum:
(http://img18.imageshack.us/img18/6670/dscf0243b.jpg)
its a Thermostart intake heater, used on ford tractors.
it has a small heating element, and a low-pressure fuel connection that does this when turned on:
(http://img16.imageshack.us/img16/6578/dscf0245u.jpg)
its called a flame intake heater!
they only cost $20 or so, and have been used with great success for the cummins guys.
so I got to thinking, it would simplify my starting aid system, and there is already a place to put it in the intake elbow(where the dropping resistor goes)
what do you think?
-Owen
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just bought one, figured for $23 shipped I would give it a whirl!
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Whoa.. that's awesome! Maybe that could be helpful in the 15:1 TDI I'm secretly dreaming of in the back of my mind! ;)
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If nothing else it looks cool and if it doesn't work for you then you could take it and roast things.
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I think I am gonna wire the glow plugs to be "pimped" off a pushbutton as well as the thermostart.
I have a spare dropping resistor(that is external to the intake), so I can use that to re-wire my GP and can still loose all the fru-fru of the self sensing system the car had.
that way I can use the GP for warm weather starts, and the thermostart for winter(the GP would sometimes take longer than I would like to start the car in winter)
I will keep you all posted on progress!
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Owen, My Olds has 6v glow plugs with a stupid little control module that also went tits up..
Since the original controller just pulsed the GP's with 12v at a constant rate I got to thinking, turn signal blinker!! Works real damned slick.. I have the blinker controlling the original GP relay..
Icing on the cake?? I used a VW fast glow controller to run the turn signal blinker... I made an adapter to fit the VW temp sender into the port for the old GP temp sender, so it even varies the time they are pulsed according to temp, which is how the original module worked...
Some day when the time comes to replace the gp's I'm just going to install the 12v ones as the 6v ones are kinda funky to come by.. But I still may keep the VW controller less the turn signal blinker..
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this thing was supposed to cycle the plugs at 12V for 5 sec when cranking, and then hold them at 6V for up to 60 sec(with the aid of a dropping resistor)
but while I was playing with the relays and my multi-meter, I'm not sure how it does this as the dropping resistor and glow plugs seem to be in entirely separate circuits.
the glow plugs all test out dead(varying degrees of dead, but all outside the allowed resistance) and when the relay is triggered I get twelve volts at the buss bar(would explain having to replace them twice in one year)
supposedly there are twelve volt glow plugs available(which would make the revised wiring alot easier) but they are hard to find...
what do the 12V glow plugs for the GM diesel look like? (as many as the injection parts are the same, the plugs might be the same too)
-Owen
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They are similar to the 6.2/6.5 GP's, however they are different part numbers... I had a hell of a time finding 12v gp's for my Isuzu powered tractor.. Seems that in most applications they used 24v gp's in them... I finally took measurements (diameters, thread pitch, distances between steps) and was able to match a set up...
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well, I just found them!
$70 ea, and $6 shipping for a set of four!
gotta love google and ebay!
going to buy a set right now.
-Owen
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Nice.. Not a terrible price either.. The one's for the tractor were about $120 a shot.. And of course they were all crap....
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ouch, that had to hurt...
anyway, the glowplugs are on the way(6-10 day shipping though, which sucks) and the Thermostart should be here in a day or two.
hoping to have my car back on the road sometime next week.
-Owen
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thermostart came, and was installed this morning!
no pics, as I was in a real hurry to get it going(sharing a car while mine was down) and it was pouring rain.
pics to come with good weather.
it works(not as well as I had hoped, but it is effective) it takes much longer than I had expected to get the car to start.
it takes 45+ seconds to be hot enough to start, which makes me nervous(as I am used to glow plugs that would be dead by then)
anyway, I have glow plugs coming, so hopefully I will only need this thing when it gets really cold.
-Owen
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the thermo start is the thing that actually shoots FIRE into your intake, correct? wont that make it obscenely dirty after a while?
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yep, it is, and it probably will yes.
but I dont intend to use it much, just when the 12V glow plugs are not up to the task.
next problem though is that the thermostart is not airtight, it leaks boost through it...
not sure what to do about that.
-Owen
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Where's your leak?? Where it threads in, or the fuel inlet??
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it leaks around the fuel inlet, between the outside of the fuel inlet and the inside of the power lug.
no real way to seal it, anything used would have to withstand the heat of the thing at full glow.
maybe smear it with JB weld?
anyway, rear end is making noise now, gotta go look at that next...
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hahaha.. ate the pinion bearing out of it!
(hopefully its just a u-point)
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nope, broke the torque tube off the diff.
its gone, gonna move on.
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it leaks around the fuel inlet, between the outside of the fuel inlet and the inside of the power lug.
JB weld isn't real happy about expansions and crontaction, especially when put in hot places.. Could you braze it??
Nice job on the torque tube!! Broken parts means your gaining in power doesn't it???
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nope on the brazing, the leak is where the insulator for the power connection goes(plastic)
and the torque tube broke when I swerved to miss someone who cut me off, and ran over a big rock that banged on the axle HARD.
gonna retire the car, might save the motor.
it could be fixed(by fabbing up mounts and installing a different rear end) but I dont have the time or the space to do that...
gonna try to find a small pickup that I can afford(not much)
-Owen
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yea, just drop that engine in something else..
sorry for the injury to your car :'(
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yeah, life is like that sometimes...
not sure if the motor will be saved, dont have the space to keep it...
-Owen
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just bought a 1991 isuzu pickup 4x4 with a 2.6 four cylinder.
single cab, short bed.
not perfect, but for $2000 its one hell of a truck!
not gonna save the diesel, just too much work right now, and I have nowhere to keep it.
I will be removing all the stuff that I can to sell, but I will be without a diesel for a while :(
-Owen
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Do you have the fuel pump left? If it is around 8-14 psi I would want it.
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yep, I do have the fuel pump.
I'll check the pressure tonight.
-Owen
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I feel real bad. It sucks that you put that much work into something and junk like that happens.
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keeping the supercharger? if you decide to part ways with it.. remember me ;)
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yeah, it sucks, but life goes on.
as for the charger, I wont be keeping it.
ROR if you want it PM me for details.
gonna part the car out, if anyone wants some parts just let me know.
-Owen
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Aww man, I just caught up on this thread again. Bummer about the axle :(, that's gotta be a let down. Can you swap the diesel into the truck?
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I could, but dont have the time or the space to do a motor swap...
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Whenever you get a chance to check the pressure let me know.
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sorry, its 4-7 PSI