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#45
by
chrisg
on 18 May, 2010 00:53
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so before i do this, i want to make sure its as easy as it sounds...
when i open the pump, do i have to worry about air bubbles in the fuel? or do i have to re-prime the fuel system?
ALSO
my engine is pretty much stock and guttless(1.6 N/A)
after i do the governer mod, i should just put it all back together and be fine. and if it idles funny then move the accelerator lever clockwise a notch?
sorry if its been covered, i just kinda want a "matter of fact" break down aha
thanks in advanced
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#46
by
8v-of-fury
on 18 May, 2010 06:26
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Pretty much stock? Or completely stock?
What do you have done? This mod will allow way more fuel then the stock engine can handle AT EVERY RPM. Without an EGT gauge you will be kind of tempting fate, and need to monitor the amount of smoke you belch out. Keep it next to none, or you will melt this motor down. I suggest getting an EGT gauge before doing this mod.
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#47
by
chrisg
on 18 May, 2010 21:47
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so if i do this and there is too much smoke, should i just back the smoke screw off some?
i don't plan to keep this engine for long, aaz swap is planned for late summer.
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#48
by
8v-of-fury
on 18 May, 2010 21:49
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This mod will for sure Raise EGT's, if you monitor things, and dont plan for it to last, DO IT.
There will be full fueling allowed, so there will be no more hitting a wall at 3000rpm when the engine still obviously wants to pull. If your out smoking a Dodge Cummins, you need to lay off the pedal a little or you WILL have your own little metal forgery
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#49
by
vanbcguy
on 19 May, 2010 00:11
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Did my pump a few weeks back - I actually had to get in to it anyhow as I managed to snap off the idle control lever (don't ask). Since I had to take the pump top off anyhow I figured I might as well git'r dun...
Only thing I'd add to the HOWTO here is it's way easier to get the pump top back on if you back the max fuel screw way out first. The other thing is I couldn't get my car to rev above idle AT ALL until I'd gotten a lot of the air out of my pump. I definitely would have been better off priming it with a mityvac or something. I've got the style of filter with the circulation valve - it made sure as much of the air got back in to the filter and pump again as possible.
How's she drive? Awesome, so much more fun. Jezebel wants to rattle my teeth out in the higher 3K's but it seems like she's smoothing out more as time goes on (could just be me though). With the stock governor getting much above 3200 RPM was an exercise in futility. I think the highest I'd ever seen was 3400 because at that point there really was no point - if you don't drop a gear you ain't going any faster. Post mod I've gone up as high as 4400 on a hard pull - that's plenty high for me. Anything higher and when I upshift I'm on the wrong side of the torque peak anyhow.
I used a roller out of a piece of bicycle chain as my shim. Fit was ok, it's good hardened steel so I know it won't get chewed up. Seems to be plenty thick enough while still leaving some play. I would ALMOST say my governor is starting to kick in around that 4400 mark but again, I really don't want to test that theory much.
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#50
by
8v-of-fury
on 19 May, 2010 09:54
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Do you have a tach Bryn? I'd say these engines are pretty golden up to minimum of 55-5700 rpm. Stock governor floored in neutral will only spin the engine at 5300, and it will spin that rpm all day long. 4500 is well within its safe zone
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#51
by
vanbcguy
on 22 May, 2010 22:51
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Do you have a tach Bryn? I'd say these engines are pretty golden up to minimum of 55-5700 rpm. Stock governor floored in neutral will only spin the engine at 5300, and it will spin that rpm all day long. 4500 is well within its safe zone
Yup, I have a factory tach...
I know it SHOULD be safe to spin her up more, but this engine was previously topping out in the mid 3's so I'm kind of not eager to go too far into uncharted territory too quickly. Went out for a nice long drive today and had a few upper 4K runs, then promptly tossed my PS pump belt. D'oh. I'm DEFINITELY liking the extra range - I had an impromptu drag with a gasser Mk III today and I was pulling ahead slightly. That was really always my goal - to have the diesel be at least equal to an ABA 2.0L.
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#52
by
8v-of-fury
on 22 May, 2010 22:52
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That was really always my goal - to have the diesel be at least equal to an ABA 2.0L.
Saaahhwweeet. I rev it out to 5000 regularly lol
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#53
by
gldgti
on 24 Jun, 2010 03:25
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AAZ version....
Did the gov mod on my aaz last week.... a couple of things to note:
1) I was very surpirised to see that my pump had NO idle spring. I thought this was weird. Anyway, I shimmed the main spring and got it all back together and running, same spline on the lever - BUT, i added an idle spring from another pump I had.....
2) Addition of the idle spring has made performance WORSE. I definately have a little better top end now, but it feels like max pedal is not as much fuel as it used to be (confirmed by both EGT's and smoke). I think this is because the addition of the idle spring has "softened" the first 2/3's of the levers movement so much, that full pedal is not pulling on the governor lever like it used to (directly, without a spring between the spring capsule and back side of gov lever).
I will be removing the idle spring shortly, and will report back. Depending on the results, this could be the point at which we all realise that if you do have the external idle control lever fitted to the pump, you dont need hte idle spring at all!
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#54
by
gldgti
on 24 Jun, 2010 05:11
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UPDATE on above post:
First, note that I did replace the accelerator cable lever to the same spline position as original after the gov mod, and adding an idle spring.
I have just gone out and (after re-reading libbybapa's post about adjusting the lever arm splines) tried adjusting the shaft clockwise as suggested. I also screwed in the max fuel screw 1 turn. Car started and ran but idle was low (650) and wouldnt revf above 2000. So then attempted to screw in the max fuel screw - BUT, it was alrealy almost all the way in! I could only add 1/8 turn.
So, I counter-counter-intuitively moved the shaft back 2 splines (anticlockwise 1 spline from the orinial position) and screwed the max fuel out 2 turns. Car started, but had low idle, but would rev up well. So, I adjusted the max fuel in until the idle was back up to 1000. Now, the car revs up really fast and blows black at full throttle.
So, to clarify - I added an idle spring to the governor spring mechanism where there was previously no spring (I dont know why there was no spring). In order to get the accelerator response to be back to normal, I have needed to adjust the accelerator shaft ANTI-clockwise 1 spline.
I do believe, however, that the max fuel screw is now ina bit further than it was before i did the governor mod. Idle doesnt hang and revs drop off quickly. I will report back results soon.
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#55
by
burn_your_money
on 25 Jun, 2010 00:15
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You don't have an idle spring because you have fast idle. I guess technically you still do have the spring, it's just in a different spot and is a different style.
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#56
by
gldgti
on 28 Jun, 2010 04:43
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the aaz fast idle control is the same mechanism that is pictured in the 1.6 pumps.... its just that on the aaz, its controlled by a vacuum can instead of a lever from the cold start.... otherwise its just the same, internally.
anway - results are that:
a) I didnt put enough shims with the main spring - i only shimmed it about 2mm and performance is definately up, but i know its got more.
b) the addition of the idle spring to the main speed control mechanism hasnt really had much effect, other than causing me to have to move the lever on the splines.
c) I have fantastic performance with not a lot o smoke at all now. I cna also dial in more fuel and keep my idle low, it goes quite fast then but EGT's are a little high so i've backed it off until i change turbo's again.
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#57
by
Rabbit on Roids
on 28 Jun, 2010 13:57
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nuts to the rescue again!
made my car go faster with a brass nut.. probably about 2.5mm
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#58
by
gldgti
on 02 Jul, 2010 04:18
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yeah i have some nice high tensile nuts to use.
Rabbitonroids - if you really did use a brass nut, it might not be a great ideal over a long time, incase hte harder spring wears the nut away... just a thought.
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#59
by
Rabbit on Roids
on 03 Jul, 2010 13:01
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i think i put a shim between the spring and nut.. but its not like those things do alot of sliding around.