Author Topic: Running hot again... still (Read 8267 times)

Trimster · « **on:** July 31, 2007, 01:48:06 pm »

I can't seem to get the overheating under control. Here's the rundown...
-new thermostat 190 degree
- fresh antifreeze
- new overflow cap
The engine:
- uses about a cup of water/day
- sizzles and steams a bit by the over flow tank cap
- blows a puff of white smoke when started in the morning (running BD 100%)

Pull a hill, run the freeway with the AC on and the needle climbs to the red. Ideas? what do I need to do to trouble shoot this?

TIA

burn_your_money · « **Reply #1 on:** July 31, 2007, 04:53:15 pm »

What is your timing set at? Also, how old are your injectors?

Trimster · « **Reply #2 on:** July 31, 2007, 05:44:50 pm »

I don't know the age of the injectors. I'll bet they have 50K + on them. Not sure about timing however it runs great and was tuned just prior to me purchasing it. the owners Dad has one of the best bug/VW shops in the area. Old school and great work. So I sorta trust that but can't rule it out.

bob

burn_your_money · « **Reply #3 on:** July 31, 2007, 07:30:07 pm »

Your injectors are probably due for a rebiuld, and you should definitly get the timing verified.

coke · « **Reply #4 on:** July 31, 2007, 08:29:33 pm »

I experienced disappearing coolant and sizzling/pressure/etc. It was the radiator, she was plugged.

Trimster · « **Reply #5 on:** August 01, 2007, 07:53:28 am »

Rad. is new in the past year or so. Could be plugged I guess. Temp gauge comes up normal, sets at half gauge most of the time. Fire up the AC while freeway driving and it heads to the red. AC off and doing a long hill, it will slowly climb to just below the red.

So this morning I fired it up cold.
- Coolant squirts in pulses from the return tube into the overflow bottle, immediately. It gets luke warm quickly.
- Engine still cold and running, cap on for 2 min or less, then remove cap and it's already under pressure. The fluid is only slightly warm. Shut the engine off and it sizzles at the cap.

Crack in head or head gasket maybe?

burn_your_money · « **Reply #6 on:** August 01, 2007, 07:59:08 am »

Any bubbles in the coolant when it's running?

Does your rad fan come on when you turn the AC on?

Trimster · « **Reply #7 on:** August 01, 2007, 09:09:28 pm »

no bubbles from the lower overflow tank hose. The upper squirts in pulses.

Fan comes on just fine both when the AC is on and when the engine is hot without AC. That system seems to be working fine.

nkb · « **Reply #8 on:** August 03, 2007, 06:17:44 pm »

mine was overheating, turns out my water pump was shot and not turning sometimes

jtanguay · « **Reply #9 on:** August 03, 2007, 09:01:28 pm »

i have the 160F t-stat... never overheats

winter time you can bet i will be installing an 87C t-stat tho!!! by then i hope to have my 1Z tdi installed, but so many snags

Trimster · « **Reply #10 on:** August 04, 2007, 09:23:51 pm »

I am seeing some weeping from the water pump. Small amount but there. Maybe a sign. I'm still betting on a crack in the head or head gasket maybe.

jtanguay · « **Reply #11 on:** August 04, 2007, 11:13:10 pm »

for a cheap solution why don't you try www.steelseal.com and get back to us. you will be our guinea pig! FOR SCIENCE! check out their video... pretty convincing!

and as it is being used and tested for science, i will buy a bottle of it for you if you're willing to try it out. the only stipulation is that you must document (with pictures or even a video) the use of it and make a thread on the forum. i've always wondered if this stuff would work like they say it does.

having to pull your head, get it shaved, etc just because of a blown hg is quite a bit of work, money (machine work, head bolts, head gasket, and other non re-useable gaskets), downtime etc. for those of us who just want to 'run' this would be an excellent solution (except for those of us who do extreme damage to our motors by 'tweaking' them too much :oops:)

for those of us who have the necessary equipment to fix a hg issue for relatively cheap this wouldn't really be very appealing method, but then again not all of us have access to a machine shop and an abundance of tools (don't forget the motor has to be re-timed etc. but you can probably just get away with using the camshaft locking plate and keeping the IP locked...)

Trimster · « **Reply #12 on:** August 06, 2007, 05:31:45 pm »

I'm going to replace the water pump first. Then the Steel Seal stuff. Noticed there is a on-the-shelf brand in Wally World. Same people who make AlumaSeal. Wonder if it's the same as SteelSeal?

I'm up for the test and documentation. I do this kind of stuff all the time.

Let the games begin.

As an aside, I'm looking for a Canadian TD to put in this Caddy. Seems those folks did not put all the electronic stuff on theirs so it's a straight bolt in. If anyone knows of one....and the Steel Seal is a bust.... New motor in the budget.

Trimster · « **Reply #13 on:** August 07, 2007, 10:44:13 am »

Part of the process to use Steel seal is to locate the cylinder that is causing the problem. Mmmm, how? Would I expect to see a deposit on the glow plug in the offending cylinder? SteelSeal tech support called me just 12 hrs after posting a question to their web site. Nice tech support. Seems in order for this stuff to find the break/crack, that cylinder has to be taken off line while running the engine.

jtanguay · « **Reply #14 on:** August 07, 2007, 02:56:32 pm »

hmmm now that is interesting... i thought the way that the steel seal worked was by using high pressure & heat to 'seal' the leak spot. finding out exactly which side of the HG is problematic might be a bit difficult... but it does make sense because a gasser will not fire with excess coolant in the cylinder, giving steel seal time to do its job. a diesel would probably just push the steel seal out the exhaust, or even past the rings?

i wonder if it is possible to run the car on 2 cylinders @ 1500 rpm. would need something to catch the diesel coming out of the injector lines though.

good info