So how much does it cost to repair the AAZ crank pulley?

[Infinitrium]

I was doing a bit of thinking, and I am planning on not putting my Jetta on the road for a while. Instead, I want to save up a bit of cash and get that crank pulley/balancer fixed properly, in a garage by a mechanic. Assuming the crank nose isn't chewed up, approximately how much do you figure it would cost to have it done, parts and labour? I am going to do some looking around Tuesday. there are 2 garages in town who specialize in VW's and other German/European cars. Joe and Rob's and Alpine Motors. Anyone in New Brunswick has probably heard of them. I figure labor would be about $100+ an hour. I might be able to find someone to do it for less, but does the repair need any special skills the average mechanic might not possess? I'd like to get the timing belt done too but I'll have to check on the cost of the pulley repair first then decide if I'd have enough money to get the timing belt done.

[burn_your_money]

crank in or out?

[commuter boy]

If the crank nose isn't damaged, just put a new crank gear and bolt on.  The shop has to know how to do it correctly.  If they can't tell you the torquing procedure, and know they need to use a new bolt, go find another shop.

Properly installed, a crank bolt won't come out.  It's when they get messed with and not installed properly you get problems.

My father's in PEI, and could probably do the bolt for you if you want to go over the bridge, he's the unofficial VW diesel expert for PEI, there's usually a half dozen VDub's in the backyard at any given time.  

[Infinitrium]

How much would the new crank gear and bolt cost? How long would it take to do? Could it be done by novice mechanics (me and my dad) or would it better be left to skilled professionals?

[Infinitrium]

crank in or out?

Crank in preferably. Removing the crank would get expensive, wouldn't it?

[bigblockchev]

I have been quoted $100 to mill the crank nose for the new TDI style D shaped pulley ( the permanent fix) if the nose of the crank isn't damaged. With crank out. If the crank end is damaged beyond a certain point and requires welding then it goes up to the $350 range. This is by someone who has performed this many times. I couldn't find another machine shop that I would feel confident in. Most of them just said no. I am right in the middle of this having pulled the motor and crank out. You don't have to dissassemble the motor totally just flip it over on the engine stand pull the pan , oil pump, rod caps, main caps, and F & R seal housings & out comes the crank.  This assumes that you have the motor out. Cheers Dan

[Infinitrium]

Worst case scenario, crank nose damaged, needs machining with the crank still in the car. I'm thinking $800-$1000? I'm really hoping it doesn't come to that, I'm hoping that the crank nose is good and just needs the new bolt and pulley, balancer and whatnot.

[935racer]

Actually the crank gear and bolt are not the core of the problem, they're just the things people see the immediate problem with. The real issue is the harmonic balancer, that needs to be replaced with a new one from VW, than replace the gear and bolt given the crank nose is still in good shape.

[gnavs]

the harmonic balancer is the root of the problem?  this is news to me, any more info?

[commuter boy]

VW updated the old style harmonic balancer to a newer one that works better.  Even with that, they sometimes come from the factory off center and can cause a wobble.  A bit of shimming can sometimes fix that.

[935racer]

Its not a last resort method, last resort IMO is after the damage is done trying to replace the sprocket, bolt and or the harmonic balancer. IF you catch an AAZ engine before the crank issue occurs replace the harmonic balancer, the sprocket and bolt. A lot of people just replace the sprocket and bolt and than they still end up with the failure issue later on.

All that said that said if you are starting to wear, pull the crank, get it machined, use a new bolt, use the new harmonic balancer, (you'll obviously have to use a new sprocket after the machining) and be done with it

[VielziDub]

I have an AAZ fitted to an '86 T3 camper.

The rear pully wabbles.  I have just inspected (and attempted to remove) but I think it is this harmonic balacer rubber stuff has perished.  How can I remove the pulley?

I have removed the four heax head long bolts, but for the life of me can't get the big bolt to undo?! I have  areplacemtn big bolt, but am gussing I will need a new pulley and harmonic dampener.

Is the pulley mounted on some sort of hub? Can I remove the pulley without unding the big bolt?

[insdtanoodles]

I got mine welded and machined for 200 bucks

[burn_your_money]

You don't need to remove the center (12pt 19mm) bolt to get the pulley/balancer off

[CoolAirVw]

I have been quoted $100 to mill the crank nose for the new TDI style D shaped pulley ( the permanent fix) if the nose of the crank isn't damaged

Can you tell us who please?  I might like to have my crank done that way.