Author Topic: OVERHEATING  (Read 6044 times)

June 29, 2007, 12:35:46 pm

Hammy

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OVERHEATING
« on: June 29, 2007, 12:35:46 pm »
I just bought my '92 Golf back from a friend of mine. He had removed the fan because it was seized, and in the process, punched a hole in the rad while removing it. I'm pretty sure he has turfed the head gasket in it, as it will push coolant out of it when ever you drive it for about 10 mins. You can idle it as long as you want, and it will be fine, but as soon as you drive it, it pushes the coolant out. I checked the ring in the cap and it is in place, I removed the restrictor out of the top line a long time ago, and I even tried it with the t-stat removed, and still the same problem. Now I just wonder how bad the rings are? It seems to be tough to start, no matter how long I glow the plugs.

 Any input or advice would be appreciated.

 Thanks;
 Jason 8)
Hammy (Jason)
'96 Golf, 1.8 gas
'91 Golf, 1.6 TD
'98 GMC 1500 4x4, 5.7L (doing my best to save the oil companies, 85 liters takes me 600 km)
'78 Ford 3000 3cyl, 201 diesel, with loader

Reply #1June 29, 2007, 08:08:11 pm

burn_your_money

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OVERHEATING
« Reply #1 on: June 29, 2007, 08:08:11 pm »
With it running pop the CCV hose off the valve cover and see if there is white smoke billowing out. If there is the rings are certainly questionable
Tyler

Reply #2July 05, 2007, 06:50:21 pm

Hammy

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OVERHEATING
« Reply #2 on: July 05, 2007, 06:50:21 pm »
Thanks Tyler, I'll try that. Sorry for the length in response, but I've been working crazy hours during shutdown,combined with the fact that I'm on dial-up internet, means I have to have some free time, not just a few minutes, LOL! :lol:
Hammy (Jason)
'96 Golf, 1.8 gas
'91 Golf, 1.6 TD
'98 GMC 1500 4x4, 5.7L (doing my best to save the oil companies, 85 liters takes me 600 km)
'78 Ford 3000 3cyl, 201 diesel, with loader

Reply #3July 05, 2007, 07:32:44 pm

burn_your_money

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OVERHEATING
« Reply #3 on: July 05, 2007, 07:32:44 pm »
Free tip, when you call in sick to work sound convincing  :P

I know what it's like to not have alot of time, just keep us posted
Tyler

Reply #4July 16, 2007, 04:12:44 pm

Hammy

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« Reply #4 on: July 16, 2007, 04:12:44 pm »
Well, I pulled off the CCV breather tube, and of coarse it had white smoke, plus the oil filler cap sounded like opening a beer can, usually I like that sound but not today, well okay, I lied a little, I opened a beer can right after I figured it needed a rebuild, and the can sounded better,lol!!

 So, I'm changing out the engine for the spare, it runs great.

 I'll keep you posted.

 Hammy
Hammy (Jason)
'96 Golf, 1.8 gas
'91 Golf, 1.6 TD
'98 GMC 1500 4x4, 5.7L (doing my best to save the oil companies, 85 liters takes me 600 km)
'78 Ford 3000 3cyl, 201 diesel, with loader

Reply #5July 18, 2007, 12:19:51 pm

Hammy

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OVERHEATING
« Reply #5 on: July 18, 2007, 12:19:51 pm »
I swapped the engines, everything seemed to go well. Fired up the engine, and other than the usual priming issues, everything went ok. Then, I notice dampness around the throttle linkage, on top of the pump. This then turned into a stream of diesel fuel, so off goes the engine, and I tear into the pump. The leak was coming from a shaft that rides in a brass bush, it also has an "O" ring on the shaft. I cleaned everything up, and threw a bit of grease on the shaft, and reassembled it, and it seems to work fine. Now, I notice I have a slight seepage of coolant from the water pump area. It looks like the shaft seal is gone. I did have a real nasty time removing the pump pulley bolts, (I had to swap pulleys, cause the doner engine had power steering.) Maybe this damaged the pump seal.

 Now my question is; Do I have to remove the timing belt to change the water pump, or just the cover only?

 I'll keep everyone posted as the saga continues!!!
LOL!!!

Hammy :?
Hammy (Jason)
'96 Golf, 1.8 gas
'91 Golf, 1.6 TD
'98 GMC 1500 4x4, 5.7L (doing my best to save the oil companies, 85 liters takes me 600 km)
'78 Ford 3000 3cyl, 201 diesel, with loader

Reply #6July 18, 2007, 04:04:48 pm

coke

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OVERHEATING
« Reply #6 on: July 18, 2007, 04:04:48 pm »
I had to remove both the timing belt and the intermediate shaft pulley to get at all the bolts. Or, alternatively, you can remove the injection pump, alternator bracket, and remove the whole pump assembly.

Reply #7July 20, 2007, 07:35:51 pm

Hammy

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OVERHEATING
« Reply #7 on: July 20, 2007, 07:35:51 pm »
I changed out the water pump today, and all went well. I pulled the alt bracket off, and slid it out, thanks for the tip Coke. Now I have to deal with the fuel leak on top of the injection pump. My clean up job only slowed it down. Does anyone have any sources for the 'o' ring on the top? Plus does Giles have a site going for his pumps?

 Thanks;

 Hammy
Hammy (Jason)
'96 Golf, 1.8 gas
'91 Golf, 1.6 TD
'98 GMC 1500 4x4, 5.7L (doing my best to save the oil companies, 85 liters takes me 600 km)
'78 Ford 3000 3cyl, 201 diesel, with loader

Reply #8July 20, 2007, 08:36:12 pm

jtanguay

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OVERHEATING
« Reply #8 on: July 20, 2007, 08:36:12 pm »
check out vendors section.  he has his own shop now.  roughly $950 per pump rebuild?  very worth it!


This is how we deal with porn spammers! You've been warned.

Reply #9July 30, 2007, 02:46:41 pm

vwwv

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Injector Pump leak 1.6
« Reply #9 on: July 30, 2007, 02:46:41 pm »
Moonstone - some have pooh - poohed my reported experience.  Believe me - what I'm about to tell you is the truth.  My 1.6 IP leaked like a sieve when I parked it for the winter last winter and it was worse this spring when I re-fired it.  I had read on either this forum or another that the use of 2 stroke oil plus some transmission fluid might cause the pump seals to swell up to normal.  I used 2 fluid ounces of ashless 2 stroke plus 4 or 5 fluid ounces of automatic transmission fluid at every fill-up and the pump is NO LONGER LEAKING.  So far, it BTH out of the $$$$ charged for a rebuild.  My '86 is currently running better than it has for several years.  Hope that's not a bad sign???
1996 Passat tdi, 86 Jetta idi, 90 Jetta idi, 89 Suburban, 94 Polaris 4x4 ATV.