Author Topic: EGT - What to expect  (Read 5779 times)

May 29, 2007, 08:18:49 pm

HarryMann

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EGT - What to expect
« on: May 29, 2007, 08:18:49 pm »
Would like some info please on what peeps get EGT wise and what they think sensible limts are for fast road use.

1.9TD AAZ, good head, fair to good compressions, mild pump mods, AAZ injectors, 2.5"  exhaust, Good KKK K14 giving 14 psi, 16 psi with more fuel... No intercooler.. 1.00mm injection timing

Here are some figures (Westach K type probe on 1000 C gauge in middle of manifold to turbo flange...

Cruising a 2 ton vanagon Syncro pickup truck with 15" Mud Terrain tyres at:

70 mph ~ 600C
60 mph ~ 500C
50 mph ~ 400C
etc.

Boosting up hills 800~ 850C is reached easily and perhaps 900C here and there... too much?

Oil is cooled and water temps are pretty steady at the moment  but most TD vanagons don't like too hot weather, their rad fans come on a lot, even at speed.

I know I should be intercooled  but would appreciate knowing the limits.  And does anyone change injection timing with a big intercooler?g



Reply #1May 30, 2007, 05:53:58 am

HarryMann

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« Reply #1 on: May 30, 2007, 05:53:58 am »
Right, thanks Libya...

I have a Doka, a twin-cab so that tunnel is n/a, though I know many  that put it behind the tailight with a fan though don't think that is particularly effective without a fair bit of fangineeering :)

I have an oil cooler the other side with a downward blowing fan, sealing up the tunnel to ernsure that air is only sucked through the cooler from the forward fresh-air grille was a lot of work

So I am planning water injection from 9~10 psi upwards, pre-compressor, and see how it goes.

Reply #2May 30, 2007, 07:17:22 am

jtanguay

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« Reply #2 on: May 30, 2007, 07:17:22 am »
some people say not to inject water pre compressor as it supposedly erodes the compressor... but hillfolk'r has a windshield washer pump that sprays into the turbo... his system seems to be holding up pretty well!


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Reply #3May 30, 2007, 10:22:53 am

HarryMann

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« Reply #3 on: May 30, 2007, 10:22:53 am »
True, some do say that.

There is a 24 page thread on UK Aqumist's forum about pre-compressor WI and wet compression.

There seems to be two ways of avoiding any (exagerrated) possibility of impeller l.e. damage:

1) Inject very close aiming right at the impeller's nut (as in RR Merlin's, combined with the carburation of the fuel into the eye of the supercharger)

2) Ensure very fine atomisation of the water with little chance of large droplet formation, especially too far upstream which gives the chance of condensation along the inlet pipe's walls.

I'm aiming at the second, using initially a 0.3mm Aquamist spiral jet at 6~8 bar, with their Race pump. Triggered at 9~10 psi

Just watched my EGTs again, wet and cold here, long dual-carriageway climb, pushed it up to 14 psi to hold 70mph (weighs 2 tons) and straight away they crept up beyond 750 to 800C...  :roll:

But I love the very neat and short compressor to inlet manifold pipe, with negligible losses.. hence looking at WI solutions.

Reply #4May 30, 2007, 08:59:01 pm

HarryMann

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« Reply #4 on: May 30, 2007, 08:59:01 pm »
Andrew, The probe is smack in the middle of the entry into the turbo... is that what you are quoting for, perhaps the highest combined gas temp anywhere in the exhaust? Thanks

Reply #5May 31, 2007, 05:37:18 am

Otis2

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« Reply #5 on: May 31, 2007, 05:37:18 am »
By comparison - I have a very similar rig to Harry.  It's not the T3 pickup, and it's 2wd, but on the other hand I load it heavily on the highway, and often pull a 600 pound trailer.  

I'm sure I've been laden close to 2 tons, not counting wind resistance from the trailer.

'85 Vanagon Westy, 27.5" diameter tires, AAZ engine & waterboxer 4-speed trans, intercooler, 2.5" exhaust.  VDO pyrometer with probe in same location as Harry.  Mild pump mods by Giles, and main fuel screw tweaked up after that.

The big difference is my Garrett T3 turbo from a Mercedes (0.48 A/R).  Much slower to build boost than Harry's K14, but everything runs cooler than with the original K03.

Compressed air is always surprisingly cool from this turbo, and although I have an intercooler, I doubt it has a big effect.  The "hot side" of the intercooler stays pretty cool.

With ambient air temperature about 25 celcius, at sea level, my exhaust gas temps hit about 525 celcius when holding 70 - 75 mph on the flat.  That's with about 0.5 bar of turbo boost.

Climbing an incline can get me to 675 celcius in about 15 seconds.  I get worried holding 675 celcius for more than about 1.5 minutes ... but that may be unreasonably conservative.  

EGT does not climb beyond 675 celcius on an incline - it just hits there, and stops.  I have not driven any extreme mountain passes yet, so maybe it could get higher in heavier load circumstances, but it really does seem to top out at about 675 c. (ie. 1250 F).

Peak turbo boost pressure corresponding to that peak EGT is 16 psi, and it takes 3800 rpm, full throttle, and 6 - 8 seconds of patience to get there.  I have disconnected the wastegate actuator hose, so this is the highest the boost will get with the current fuelling (and sadly, recall that I'm already overfuelled).

Oil temps have been staying around 110 celcius at 70 - 75 mph, ambient air temp 25 celcius, @ sea level.  A little hot, but it never gets any worse than that.

I don't have a calibrated water temp gauge, just the goofy factory one.  But the needle does not get over the mid point ever, and usually stays below the LED.  I attribute this to a brand new radiator.

So Harry, another solution to the issue, outside of water injection, can be to install a bigger turbo.

Reply #6May 31, 2007, 05:52:57 am

HarryMann

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« Reply #6 on: May 31, 2007, 05:52:57 am »
Thanks Otis, a very useful and timely reply, as just been told much the same thing be ndy Simpson who posts here as well... he runs a K24 I believe and saw his temps last weekend wer nothing like mine, but then has an air-to-water intercooler with a front rad AND  26 ft of copper pipe to keep it cold  :roll:

I don't have new rad and water temps do climb now and again, until that big Diesel fan cuts in (550W!!)...

Oil temps creep up far too easily to 130C, do you have an oil cooler..

Wanting to keep the Garret T2 or K14 for low-end pulling when ff-road and good pickup, but it seems the larger turbos really don't compromise this as much as folklore has it, certainly with the larger exhausts and some more fuel...

I have a T3 kicking about somewhere actually, but it ooks awfully large to fit to the VW JX Diesel Vanagon style manifold  :roll:

Reply #7May 31, 2007, 07:41:57 am

jtanguay

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« Reply #7 on: May 31, 2007, 07:41:57 am »
i believe one of the added benefits of the water intercooling post charger is the fact that the finely misted water evaporates under heat/pressure which cools the charge... i don't think it would have that drastic of effect pre charger...  would be almost like driving on a humid day perhaps?


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Reply #8May 31, 2007, 09:17:36 am

jimfoo

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« Reply #8 on: May 31, 2007, 09:17:36 am »
Quote from: "HarryMann"
Thanks Otis, a very useful and timely reply, as just been told much the same thing be ndy Simpson who posts here as well... he runs a K24 I believe and saw his temps last weekend wer nothing like mine, but then has an air-to-water intercooler with a front rad AND  26 ft of copper pipe to keep it cold  :roll:

I don't have new rad and water temps do climb now and again, until that big Diesel fan cuts in (550W!!)...

Oil temps creep up far too easily to 130C, do you have an oil cooler..

Wanting to keep the Garret T2 or K14 for low-end pulling when ff-road and good pickup, but it seems the larger turbos really don't compromise this as much as folklore has it, certainly with the larger exhausts and some more fuel...

I have a T3 kicking about somewhere actually, but it ooks awfully large to fit to the VW JX Diesel Vanagon style manifold  :roll:

I had a K14 on my AAZ  and could easily get too hot on EGTs. I wanted to keep the torque also for off-road, so I went with a VNT turbo as it should spool as good or better than the K14 yet has a much more free flowing exhaust for lower EGTs. I haven't been able to test it off-road yet as my Rover still sits in my garage being assembled, but I'm hoping it may be on the road by weeks end or early next week. With the vanes closed on the turbo and just revving it in the garage, I can get it to surge, so that tells you how quickly it builds pressure.
Jim
1966 Land-Rover 88" with 1.9 1Z which has been transformed to an M-TDI
TFO35 mechanically controlled VNT, IC , and 2.5" exhaust.
Driven daily

Reply #9May 31, 2007, 09:20:16 am

HarryMann

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« Reply #9 on: May 31, 2007, 09:20:16 am »
Oh it should be effective, Sir Stanley Hooker in his memoirs quotes 25C reduction for just the fuel alone being carburreted into the eye of the supercharger on the RR Merlin, so the intercooler has an easier job of it, and in theory, compression moves from adiabatic more towards the ideal isothermal process, though think that would be a small effect until pressure ratios of 3 or more are reached...

.. so we live in hope. In fact the ideal is probably wet compression with additional post compression WI

I agree with above though, that the K14 is probably choking on the turbine side... WI might reduce tha and extend the turbine's enveleope somwhat.

Hope to find that out by the weekend - hehe  :wink:

Quote
With the vanes closed on the turbo and just revving it in the garage, I can get it to surge, so that tells you how quickly it builds pressure.


Sounds like you're going to have some fun too, in a week or so...

Reply #10May 31, 2007, 01:45:26 pm

HarryMann

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« Reply #10 on: May 31, 2007, 01:45:26 pm »
Thanks, can see the problem at altitude...

Reply #11May 31, 2007, 01:55:40 pm

Darth Garry

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« Reply #11 on: May 31, 2007, 01:55:40 pm »
I have driven my TD accross the country, and have experienced 600-700F EGT temps at cruising speed (around 72 MPH).  When I've driven across some giant mountain passes in colorado, I spiked it at 1200 F, but intentionally drive to keep things under 1000.  

However, my probe is mounted in the downpipe about 12" from the turbo, and I know there is the chance of a lot of loss in those 12".  We are fabricating a new downpipe now which will have a bung within a few inches of the turbo.  Also the turbo and pipe will be jet hotted to prevent loss, so hopefully I'll get a truer reading.

Garry
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Reply #12May 31, 2007, 02:13:45 pm

HarryMann

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« Reply #12 on: May 31, 2007, 02:13:45 pm »
So they're post turbo temps, quite a diffeernt thing I'm told...

Reply #13May 31, 2007, 05:47:32 pm

Otis2

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« Reply #13 on: May 31, 2007, 05:47:32 pm »
Quote from: "HarryMann"
Thanks Otis, a very useful and timely reply, as just been told much the same thing be ndy Simpson who posts here as well... he runs a K24 I believe and saw his temps last weekend wer nothing like mine, but then has an air-to-water intercooler with a front rad AND  26 ft of copper pipe to keep it cold  :roll:

I don't have new rad and water temps do climb now and again, until that big Diesel fan cuts in (550W!!)...

Oil temps creep up far too easily to 130C, do you have an oil cooler..

Wanting to keep the Garret T2 or K14 for low-end pulling when ff-road and good pickup, but it seems the larger turbos really don't compromise this as much as folklore has it, certainly with the larger exhausts and some more fuel...

I have a T3 kicking about somewhere actually, but it ooks awfully large to fit to the VW JX Diesel Vanagon style manifold  :roll:


I have a larger oil/water heat exchanger (ie. "cooler") than stock AAZ.  It's from a 2005 Passat PD130.  But frankly, it didn't do very much for oil cooling when I had the K03 turbo on there.  I was disappointed (and my wallet was significanly lighter...).  

However, now, with the big T3, oil temps are acceptable (if a bit hot) with the PD130 oil/water cooler.  Probably a sandwich-plate adapter for the oil filter mount, with air-cooler, would cool the oil better.  If I had 130 c oil temps, I would take immediate drastic action...  TransDapt makes a sandwich adapter that will fit the AAZ - part number 1313.  

I have an exhaust manifold from a 1.6TD Golf, with an adapter flange to fit the Mercedes T3 turbo.  The exhaust manifold is mounted upside down, and the turbo housing re-indexed.  With the exhaust manifold flipped, there's plenty of room to mount a bigger turbo.

I'm not sure how easy this would be to do on your setup - I bet your engine is mounted at 50 degrees.  My engine is mounted at 15 degrees, using a Kennedy adapter plate, which may give me more room for experiments without losing ground clearance.

This 1.6TD exhaust manifold has a trapezoid flange, rather than the triangular flange for the K03 turbo that was on the original AAZ manifold.  If you look at the two exhaust manifolds side by side, it's remarkable how restrictive the AAZ manifold is.  Just a tiny hole to feed the turbo and pass the exhaust.  I suspect the K14 exhaust manifold on the AAZ has the same restrictive tiny flange as the K03...

I suspect a big part of my cooler running is the reduction in backpressure achieved from the 1.6TD manifold and the big T3.  Remember, this Mercedes turbo is a bigger T3 than was used by VW on the 1.6TD.  I have read on this forum that the A/R for the VW T3 is 0.30, and the T3 for the Mercedes is 0.48.  Possibly the VW diesel T3 would be a better turbo to use for low rpm spooling and still run cool, but I have no empirical data on that.

My intercooler is air-water with a dedicated front-mount radiator, and two electric pumps.  (BTW, no copper tubes, it's all rubber... copper and aluminum make a nice corrosive battery in contact with water.)  One of the pumps died, blocking all coolant flow (so the intercooler effectively became an inter-heater/heat sink).  But it had no effect on my EGTs.  The compressed air from the big turbo is really that cool.  My intercooler is probably superflous with this present configuration.

To further make the point, I have some wiring that is routed much too close to the "hot side" of compressed air from the turbo, but surprisingly the insulation has not been damaged at all by heat.  I really should re-route that wiring, but it seems to live there quite easily, emphasizing the relative coolness of the turbo's compressed air.

I appreciate your interest in low-rpm spooling that you get with the K14, for off-road use.  And there are plenty of times that I wish I had an earlier spool.  But of course you do have the granny-low gear in the syncro, and with the fuelling turned up, I expect that AAZ provides plenty of off-road, low speed grunt prior to turbo spool.  

Mine seems to, anyway.  I don't ever see more than a couple of psi boost in 1st gear, and maybe half a bar max in 2nd gear.  Running NA is still adequate to get me started from a dead stop on some pretty extreme inclines, although as Andrew notes, sometimes I can't get into 3rd without good momentum.  That's mostly due to the huge gear ratio gap between 2nd and 3rd in the wasserboxer 4-speed, I think, aggravated by my tall tires.  Only in 3rd and 4th gear will I see 10+ psi of boost.

I also doubt that you operate the vehicle at anything like the elevation that Andrew drives, unless you're up in Scotland regularly (and even then...).  That's why I noted that my data is taken at roughly sea level.

Best of luck with water injection, but your engine sounds like it's running so hot in so many ways, that I kind of doubt that W.I. is going to make a huge difference in all temps (EGT, oil & water).  The more open exhaust manifold and big T3 turbo has had an across-the-board drop in my own operating temperatures, but obviously at the cost of low rpm spooling.  Nothing is for free.

Reply #14May 31, 2007, 06:04:32 pm

HarryMann

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« Reply #14 on: May 31, 2007, 06:04:32 pm »
All very useful feedbackl again, many thanks...

Quote
. (BTW, no copper tubes, it's all rubber... copper and aluminum make a nice corrosive battery in contact with water.)


Andy Simpson's 26' of copper tube is in addition to the normal radiator for the charge-cooler (as they seem to be called these days  :roll: )

Maybe he's trusting that 100% antifreeze will avoid such corrosion problems?

Obviously, despite reservations about retaining that early boost pressure rise, I can't ignore the general concensus that a K14 or garret T2 is just a bit too small, especially the A/R of the turbine... suppose I could work the A/R to  up it a bit, but do have a T3 sitting there (with trapezoidal flange like the T2), waiting to be tried...

Anyway, will feedback results of WI this weekend

 

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