Share your rookie mistakes to help us all learn

[the caveman]

tried for all my life why I couldn't get a IP i had just rebuilt to get the timing to set. Spent at least 3 hours scratching my head because I couldn't get it above 33[ there's the hint].- I was using a standard dial gauge- not the metric one I had used for 30 years

[TylerDurden]

I got an engine re-installed and timed-up. As per "best-practices", I turned the engine over a few times with a wrench: a 1/2" drive with long extension, so I could see into the engine compartment from by the right fender.

I heard a metallic rubbing sound...

I kept turning, trying to determine the nature and location of the sound. Lots of sounds to ignore: compression passing rings, belts squeaking, etc. I took off the lower timing cover to check the clearance by the crank hub... all good. I had also just replaced the failed new IM shaft seal (the thin type) and was pretty sure the pulley went back on properly, but that metallic sound was about the same as the IM pulley tone. That checked out ok.

I was about to pull off the TB and spin each pulley solo, when I noticed the shifter linkage was not in the neutral position...


I had been turning the engine earlier with the right wheel off the ground and still had the tranny in 5th gear - the brake rotor was turning and rubbing the pads. I didn't even notice the axle turning when I was next to it, I was so focused on the engine.

[pointynoggin]

I have done it twice, left the ratchet on the crank bolt after timing and turning the starter

Droping the engine and transaxel in and bolting it down then cant get the drive shafts on.

And the classic, timing with the cold start out.

[shwak23]

How did you manage to bolt an engine in so you couldn't get the axles on?

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[8v-of-fury]

How did you manage to bolt an engine in so you couldn't get the axles on?

Usually you need to unbolt the control arms to fit them in with the engine package already installed.

[pointynoggin]

I got the drivers on ok but the passengers was one the floor when i got the engine in and it wouldn't squeeze the shaft past the oil pan iirc.  I disconnected the control arm from the ball joint to get it to clear.  Pita

[TylerDurden]

I used wire coat-hangers to hold the axles up while lifting the engine out, rolling the car around (sans engine) and dropping the engine down. While re-installing, the right side axle needed to be a bit higher than normal, once the engine is close to the mounts.  The left was hooked onto the coolant tank bracket, the right was hooked onto the AC line bracket.

A pan under the tranny & engine would have been good during removal: gear-oil poured out of the inner c-v joints (failed flange-caps) and some remaining coolant came out of the waterpump.

I also should have printed a picture of the engine before removal and put it on the rain-tray, to remind myself which order the hookups/cables all went for re-install. (AC over throttle, throttle over cold-start, etc.)

[jimfoo]

Don't grind the pin for the timing piston down to try to get more movement for advance, as it will break easily.

[thegimpster]

This one i see a lot. Mixing green coolant or universal mix all coolant with g12

[the caveman]

Don't check the timing belt tension while the engine is running

[vanbcguy]

Don't try and unscrew glow plug retaining nuts while you've got injectors out. Injector holes love to eat nuts!

[410]

Don't stick your finger in the flywheel timing hole while the engine is running.  I thought the plastic plug was still there.  Luckily the skin grew back.

[TimpanogosSlim]

Don't try and unscrew glow plug retaining nuts while you've got injectors out. Injector holes love to eat nuts!

I've got what i think is a late AAZ breather assembly on my 1.6TD. I started out looking for just the 'puck' to plug into the port on a G60 valve cover and ended up with all the plumbing - plumbs right into an AHU air inlet, turns out.

Anyway, this includes a neat cup-shaped fitting for the breather port on the block.

Dropping an M8x30 bolt and washer down that because i neglected to stuff a rag in it gave me the gumption to re-seal my oil pan and windage tray with RTV.

[Renax]

This concerns the 1.6D;
 Put the damn "T"-bolt in the waterpump before you bolt the alternator bracket on.
 I'm not sure if this will remind you before the AC is bolted down,... I knew about it and have forgotten it before but that didn't stop me from doing it again today.
 Hopefully the last time  :lol:

Done this atleast 15 times, but i think i got it right atleast once:-P

I've seen the "crank engine with pumplock in place", but worse: turn the engine by hand with a socketwrench on the crank, then try to start the car with wrench still in place... resulted in a broken pulley, wich again resulted in some bent valves...

I once used 5mm longer bolts than i should have on the oilpump for my mTdi in a Caravelle. (Euro vanagon) this resulted in no oilpressure because of the gap between the pump and block. Because i had the wrong sensors i did'nt find out, (never suspected a problem here).
Was pretty amacing, the car ran for about 10-15km (with overheating, and ruining two good turbos) before i found out.. (the second turbo failure made me realice that it might not get oil) the oilfilter was still dry...
Fixing this problem and the car ran fine, but with a lot of sound from the lifters, before i ***ed up with replacing the lifters, camshaft and camshaft holders.
Cam siezed and belt broke. When pulling the head no valves was bent, so I'm sure a hone, and new cam and cambelt would do the trick, but at that point i found out that DI isn't for me, and swiched back to IDI...

[TimpanogosSlim]

Now i know what the extra t-bolt in my parts box is for!

I don't have a lower timing cover that fits, though, so it is kinda moot. I guess now that it looks like i will be deleting power steering i might be able to find one, but there is a chance i need those pulleys for AC next summer

.:Sent by pneumatic tubes