Question on timing belt replacement

[rallydiesel]

In my Bentley manual it says to loosen the camshaft sprocket and tap it free from the camshaft with a rubber mallet. Yet in the timing belt how-to on the VWdieselparts webpage it doesn't mention having to do this.

My question is, do I have to loosen the cam sprocket or can the belt be properly tensioned between the cam and the IP without this by just sliding the belt onto the sprockets?

[Vincent Waldon]

One's a "just replace the timing belt" thing and one's a "actually set the timing" thing.

If your timing is perfect.... cam is exactly in the right spot at TDC etc and all you need to do is put a new belt on then you quite often will not have to loosen the camshaft sprocket... the new belt may just slide into place and not move when you tension it.

If you want to replace the belt *and* make sure you have perfect timing then you go for the full-meal-deal proceedure... Engine at TDC, lock the cam and pump, break the cam sprocket free, install the belt, tension, tighten the cam sprocket, remove the locks, set the pump timing with the dial gauge.

So, both instructions are correct, just talking about slight different things.


Vince

[rallydiesel]

Got it, thanks.

[jackbombay]

install the belt, tension, tighten the cam sprocket, remove the locks, set the pump timing with the dial gauge.

   
  I leave the cam shaft lock in place when I turn the pump so  the engine/cam doesn't move from TDC, fwiw.

[6011]

Sorry to hijack but, do most people use correct VW tools for this procedure, or do you use a (3/16?) piece of flat bar for the cam shaft and a (what size?) cylindrical thing to lock the pump pulley?

[jimfoo]

I used the correct tools.

[burn_your_money]

I only use the dial indicator, everything else is the "incorrect parts" It all gets the job done

[Vincent Waldon]

install the belt, tension, tighten the cam sprocket, remove the locks, set the pump timing with the dial gauge.

   
  I leave the cam shaft lock in place when I turn the pump so  the engine/cam doesn't move from TDC, fwiw.

Yeah, now that I think of it, me too !!

Just don't leave any of the locks in place when starting it for the first time !!


To the other poster:  I use a "real" dial gauge and adapter, milled a cam lock so that I don't need any silly feeler gauges, and turned the pump lock on a lathe... of them all the pump lock is the least critical imho.  

Some people use a stick and feeler gauges instead of the dial gauge... what would McGyver do I wonder ??!!