The bracket that holds the motor mount also holds the injection pump, so the pump has to come out first. The bracket is held to the engine by four allen bolts, two that hold the little bracket that the timing cover bolts to (these are easy), and two near the back of the engine. The bottom rear bolt comes out working through the wheel well. The top rear allen bolt is a real witch to get out, the mount is in the way so you have to grind down an allen key to get it to fit in there and then use a cheater extension and hope something doesn't strip or break. I think I ended up using Vice-grips on mine. I replaced that one with a 13mm hex head bolt, which can be installed and removed with an open-end wrench, which is 100% easier IMHO.
Then there are two hex heads that bolt the motor mount bracket to the front pump bracket (these will be obvious once the pump is out and easily removed).
Once the bracket is out, you have to remove the old mount. You can do this by passing the blade of a hacksaw through it and sawing from the inside out through ONE layer of metal. Or, find a machine shop with the right mandrels so they can press the old one out (well worth the money IMHO). Then of course the new mount has to be pressed in. I tried freezing the new mount and heating the bracket with a torch and then using a vice, but got nowhere. Machine shop is the way to go.
Make sure the new mount is installed in the correct orientation. Looks like a guy standing on his head in the installed position. I had one pressed in a little bit crooked and it failed within a few hundred miles so I had to do it again.
I'm not sure what that urethane stuff would do. If it dries rigid then your car will vibrate like crazy. If it's soft then maybe it would work...
EDIT: Oh yeah, the injection pump has to be re-timed with a dial gauge after re-installation.