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Author Topic: Ceramic Coating  (Read 27754 times)

Reply #30May 25, 2007, 08:56:46 am

jimfoo

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« Reply #30 on: May 25, 2007, 08:56:46 am »
So I wonder how coating the head behind the pre-cups, just where the sides of them are,  or the back side of the pre-cups would affect operation?
Jim
1966 Land-Rover 88" with 1.9 1Z which has been transformed to an M-TDI
TFO35 mechanically controlled VNT, IC , and 2.5" exhaust.
Driven daily

Reply #31May 25, 2007, 10:25:22 am

saurkraut

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« Reply #31 on: May 25, 2007, 10:25:22 am »
"saurkraut: where does this 198degree firgure come from? I assume this is celcius?"

Water Jacket temp.  For purposes bringing the discusion back to facts, i pulled a kind of known number out of the air.  i assume the outside of the swirl chambers are close to this temp.  The inside, who knows?

We probably should have a note in the FAQ on this subject

Oh, by the way,did you ceramic coat your sox too?
'79 1.6TD RABBIT
'84 1.5TD RABBIT
'83 Diesel Westy
'86 Audi 5000 Turbo Quatro Wagon
92 Audi 100
'93 Eurovan
'82 Porsche 930

Reply #32May 25, 2007, 11:00:37 am

jimfoo

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« Reply #32 on: May 25, 2007, 11:00:37 am »
Same foot. Only difference is the shifter is on the wrong side.
Jim
1966 Land-Rover 88" with 1.9 1Z which has been transformed to an M-TDI
TFO35 mechanically controlled VNT, IC , and 2.5" exhaust.
Driven daily

Reply #33May 27, 2007, 03:57:09 pm

greg123

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« Reply #33 on: May 27, 2007, 03:57:09 pm »
TDI engines have excellent life with less head issues than idi (cracking etc). They have been used in lorries for years and the vw tdi as well as other older engines (Rover Perkins Prima 2.0di diesel from 1989 on) that used di have had excellent reliability.  They often have a useful side effect of contaminating the oil far less as combustion is kept central making for better oil life/less wear.  I took a Montego up to 225k miles with no descernable wear anywhere, when I scrapped the vehicle due to rottern body.  

Anyhow that's an aside a little, there is NO WAY in any circumstances that the pre-cup walls can heat the air.  Energy ALWAYS travels from Hot > Cold, thus the colder walls will always warm up by heat removed from the air inside.  Injector heating isn't an issue as it's screwed into the head and the ceramic coating won't affect that.  Normally so much heat escapes into the head that water cooling is needed to avoid warping etc, even with the ceramic coating the engine will still reach temperature so heat directed to the injector should be much the same.  Thermostat opening should be less as there should be less need to use the radiator due to heat kept in the chamber more.  Even if one presumes that the chamber can heat the air before ignition (even though it's hot enough to self ignite diesel, which is way hotter than the temperature of a head surface) that heat would COME from the temperature of the burn, which is the same thing as robbing peter to pay paul.  I think we need to get away from any idea that the pre-comp chamber can in any way heat the air in it due to a) it would need to be 700+c or thereabouts, which I put to the group it isn't.
b) even if conditions exist where it was proven that it is hotter than the air/combustion in the chamber, it's 'heat' isn't free, it's taken from combustion temperature.  There are no glow plugs stuffed all over the head heating it, the heat is sapped out of heat that should be contributing to combustion pressure - ie power and efficiency!

I have been on a top fuel board where all the top teams use ceramic coating to increase power.  another way of looking at it is to say make the same power, but with slightly less fuel.  I can't fault the theory, the quality and efficiency of coatings and the number of coatings etc would make a difference, as would over swirling (if that's possible?) due to higher temp sustained in the chamber.  I'm certainly convinced there are gains and it's a 'good thing' to coat, how much gains and if it's worth it is another matter.  Subaru and top fuel engine builders, among others, think it is.  Very little in the motor world is devoted to serious persuit of mpg but I feel it could have application there.

There has to be other longevity benifits, particularly in protecting the head from heat and the crown of the piston, those of you building heavy turbo motors take note ;-)

Quote


Apparently 'over swirling' is possible as it encourages more gas to be cooled from the chamber sides and reduces the burn quality.The VW swirl chamber is based on a Ricardo patent AFAIK from at least 60 years ago and in the 50's was regarded as one of the best of the IDI's efficiency wise.

Surely what makes an engine do work, is not the flames from the fuel but it is just a matter of heat... Extra heat expanding a particular volume of air. So arguably an infra red lightbulb  could do the same thing.
Initially I couldn't see how the swirl chamber could heat the air; but I guess it can whilst air is cooler than the chamber. But what is the temp of the chamber walls? what with the coolant trying to suck the heat out. Heat will of course go back out of the air as the compressing takes it beyond wall temp on its way up to 600 deg C. Fuel burning only raises it up another 300 deg C or so,
Where did the rapidly cooling walls get their heat from? Obviously it came from the previous 4 strokes or at least the power stroke. Thus  in the continual process the present power stroke will be 'robbed' of heat for the next cycle.  
Ceramic coating will reduce heat loss so the same coolant will be able to remove more of the heat that does pass  (2/3 of non ceramic setup) and so there will be less heat returning to the air from the chamber walls  but with a 1/3 more heat staying in the chamber that doesn't seem a problem. If peak air temp in the chamber is higher in the ceramic case then turning the fuel down should result in similar temperatures to original setup.
Reducing radiator size could help; or using pure antifreeze (which although it boils at a higher temperature actually has a lower SHC than water).
I don't like the idea of higher and higher injection pressures  just seems like extra energy wasted and extra strain on the pump. Neccesary perhaps for absolute power but for economy not required. Somewhere I have a book that suggests that over atomisation can lead to poor burning. Perhaps its linked to times of lower injection volume where the droplets can get lost in the excess of air and slow the flame front...

However efficient these TDI engines appear; I'm not getting the vibes that they will be long life engines.,,,
Rant off
Freelance Mechanic specialising in Tdi motors and Veg-oil 2-tank conversions.

Reply #34May 27, 2007, 05:59:18 pm

Mark(The Miser)UK

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« Reply #34 on: May 27, 2007, 05:59:18 pm »
So it looks like  UK v rotw  :wink:  + Andrew...

Greg what do you think about black ceramic?
Mark-The-Miser-UK

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I'm not here to help... I'm here to Pro-Volke"

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Reply #35May 27, 2007, 07:36:56 pm

jimfoo

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« Reply #35 on: May 27, 2007, 07:36:56 pm »
Quote from: "greg123"

Anyhow that's an aside a little, there is NO WAY in any circumstances that the pre-cup walls can heat the air.  Energy ALWAYS travels from Hot > Cold, thus the colder walls will always warm up by heat removed from the air inside.

Why not? What if the pre-cup walls are(just a guess)350 degrees? They will add heat to the air UNTIL it exceeds that temperature. Now I will admit that won't be for long, but it does add some heat. Plus the warmer the pre-cup is,
the less heat will eventually be lost. Hence me wondering about coating the outer wall of the pre-cup or the head where it contacts the pre-cup.
Jim
1966 Land-Rover 88" with 1.9 1Z which has been transformed to an M-TDI
TFO35 mechanically controlled VNT, IC , and 2.5" exhaust.
Driven daily

Reply #36May 27, 2007, 08:30:16 pm

jtanguay

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« Reply #36 on: May 27, 2007, 08:30:16 pm »
well i have an idea...

if we need heat to stay in the pre-cup.. why not just use a metal that absorbs heat like the catalytic converters use... that way it can heat up and store the heat... and the chambers can be ceramic coated to keep the heat in there.  

something like this... head + ceramic coated > layer of heat absorbing metal (that can withstand great temperatures...) > precup

lets get some discussion on this!


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Reply #37May 27, 2007, 08:56:17 pm

jimfoo

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« Reply #37 on: May 27, 2007, 08:56:17 pm »
I don't know that we have much choice in metals as it not only has to withstand heat, but also be very oxidation resistant at high temps.
Jim
1966 Land-Rover 88" with 1.9 1Z which has been transformed to an M-TDI
TFO35 mechanically controlled VNT, IC , and 2.5" exhaust.
Driven daily

Reply #38May 28, 2007, 01:07:08 am

jtanguay

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« Reply #38 on: May 28, 2007, 01:07:08 am »
Quote from: "jimfoo"
I don't know that we have much choice in metals as it not only has to withstand heat, but also be very oxidation resistant at high temps.


lets go with... Platinum... $$$$$$$$$$


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Reply #39May 28, 2007, 06:53:40 am

Mark(The Miser)UK

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« Reply #39 on: May 28, 2007, 06:53:40 am »
High temperature paints likely as not have similar heat transfer caracteristics.  Could always coat the head/water interface to slow down losses to coolant.

Pre ignition chamber is acting as an averaging mechanism reducing the peak temp and also raising the bottom temp. Is this a good thing or is it just a benefit in extremes of outside temperature?

Black Ceramic anyone :mrgreen:
Mark-The-Miser-UK

"There's nothing like driving past a bonfire and then realising; its my car on fire!"

I'm not here to help... I'm here to Pro-Volke"

Be like meeee: drive a Quantum TD
 ...The best work-horse after the cart...

Reply #40May 28, 2007, 08:40:39 am

greg123

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« Reply #40 on: May 28, 2007, 08:40:39 am »
I accept that may be possible.  May I ask where this heat comes from though? Surely this is a case of heating up your boiler to then pour some hot water on the outside of the boiler, claiming it helps the boiler efficency by heating the boiler up?  Insulating the boiler and keeping the heat in the water inside it would result in a far more efficient system.


Quote

Why not? What if the pre-cup walls are(just a guess)350 degrees? They will add heat to the air UNTIL it exceeds that temperature. Now I will admit that won't be for long, but it does add some heat.
Freelance Mechanic specialising in Tdi motors and Veg-oil 2-tank conversions.

Reply #41May 28, 2007, 09:01:26 am

greg123

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« Reply #41 on: May 28, 2007, 09:01:26 am »
I don't think it helps at all as at cranking speed with a cold engine it just sucks heat out, so much so an overly high CR is needed to fire up the thing.  Cold cranking starting is the only place where, if hot enough, it *could* help, but obviously it's stone cold and doesn't.  All other times it's a heat soak, other than for a small fraction during the initial compression stroke.  Bottom line is a hot engine means part of the fuel is uesd to heat the engine up, the more power and more fuel economy for a given amount of fuel can only come from reducing the amount of energy lost via heat to the engine and through the exhaust.

Mark I'm sorry I don't know anything about Black Ceramic - if you do can you share a bit with us?  I'm promoting the theory here, how efficient a partial coat would be (ie can one measure the improvement) is another matter! I guess a whole ceramic pre-chamber or similar would be the best way to go, coupled with a ceramic 'topped' piston and ceramic coated everything else.  Cylinder bore would be a difficult one, easy to coat but problems with life/rings bedding in etc.

Quote from: "Mark(The Miser)UK"


Pre ignition chamber is acting as an averaging mechanism reducing the peak temp and also raising the bottom temp. Is this a good thing or is it just a benefit in extremes of outside temperature?

Black Ceramic anyone :mrgreen:
Freelance Mechanic specialising in Tdi motors and Veg-oil 2-tank conversions.

Reply #42May 28, 2007, 10:19:48 am

jimfoo

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« Reply #42 on: May 28, 2007, 10:19:48 am »
Quote from: "greg123"
I accept that may be possible.  May I ask where this heat comes from though? Surely this is a case of heating up your boiler to then pour some hot water on the outside of the boiler, claiming it helps the boiler efficency by heating the boiler up?  Insulating the boiler and keeping the heat in the water inside it would result in a far more efficient system.

That was kind of my point in a way. I was thinking that if ceramic coating the pre-cup interior, keeping heat out of it, didn't seem to help, than maybe coating it to keep it from loosing heat as quickly might. I'm insulating the boiler. :wink:
Jim
1966 Land-Rover 88" with 1.9 1Z which has been transformed to an M-TDI
TFO35 mechanically controlled VNT, IC , and 2.5" exhaust.
Driven daily

Reply #43May 28, 2007, 10:24:11 am

jimfoo

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« Reply #43 on: May 28, 2007, 10:24:11 am »
Quote from: "greg123"
Bottom line is a hot engine means part of the fuel is uesd to heat the engine up, the more power and more fuel economy for a given amount of fuel can only come from reducing the amount of energy lost via heat to the engine and through the exhaust.
  I'm promoting the theory here, how efficient a partial coat would be (ie can one measure the improvement) is another matter! I guess a whole ceramic pre-chamber or similar would be the best way to go, coupled with a ceramic 'topped' piston and ceramic coated everything else.  Cylinder bore would be a difficult one, easy to coat but problems with life/rings bedding in etc.

I was looking on the net about tungsten carbide liners, which are used in some engines, along with TC coated rings. Now while not a great insulator, it does state that it transfers 2/3 the heat of steel, meaning 1/3 of what the cylinder normally looses would stay in the system.
Jim
1966 Land-Rover 88" with 1.9 1Z which has been transformed to an M-TDI
TFO35 mechanically controlled VNT, IC , and 2.5" exhaust.
Driven daily

Reply #44May 28, 2007, 05:19:21 pm

greg123

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« Reply #44 on: May 28, 2007, 05:19:21 pm »
Hehe, that may just work.  Don't you know that you'll be able to get some sort of grant for £5 for being green too?? ;-) They gave me the same to fill in my cavity walls with insulation, but it appears they made my house with gaps 5mm too small so I can't get the grant....

[/quote]
I'm insulating the boiler. :wink:[/quote]
Freelance Mechanic specialising in Tdi motors and Veg-oil 2-tank conversions.

 

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