Author Topic: 1.9 Rover re-install (Read 17481 times)

jimfoo · « **on:** May 04, 2007, 01:47:58 am »

Some pics of my re-install as I rebuild everything after my crash.

The IP side of the engine. The remote filter adapter is visible.

The turbo side with my 2.5" re-routed exhaust visible.

Looking from the tranny end. You can see my k-14 manifold to GT1749 adapter, and the EGT port in it. I left room on top for an external waste gate if I decide I want one.

jimfoo · « **Reply #1 on:** May 05, 2007, 01:53:14 am »

I have all my pics and a short QT7 movie here.
http://www.66rover.com/rover%20rebuild/index.html
I will update as I get more work done.

jtanguay · « **Reply #2 on:** May 05, 2007, 05:03:48 am »

hehehe listen to that whistle!!!

foxracer1 · « **Reply #3 on:** May 05, 2007, 10:41:21 am »

Your VNT controller looks good I think i'm going to find some flanges that will work. Did you say the 15 controller is different than the 17?

jimfoo · « **Reply #4 on:** May 05, 2007, 11:07:04 am »

What's pictured is the 15 actuator. The 17 has a different linkage that snakes around a lot. My actual controller isn't built yet as it will be based on Named TinTin's design. In case you don't know, the stock actuators work off vacuum, so have to be modified to work off of boost. There is an old thread on here somewhere by fspgtd that details it. He machined a nice aluminum ring to hold the 2 halves together. I went the cheap route when I found that 2.5" header flanges are a perfect fit.

foxracer1 · « **Reply #5 on:** May 05, 2007, 12:07:56 pm »

Yeah i studied that very long thread several times. So how hard are the 17 controllers to find? I guess if the 15 won't work on that center section then i won't open it up. I'll just find a 17 controller.

jimfoo · « **Reply #6 on:** May 05, 2007, 12:32:30 pm »

It's not that it won't work, it just depends on how you mount it. You could make it work one way or another. The 17 actuator mounted under the turbo towards the block, and the 15 mounted under but away from the block. I probably won't be using the 17 actuator, so let me know if you will need it.

foxracer1 · « **Reply #7 on:** May 05, 2007, 02:31:32 pm »

So after flipping the spring it sets the vanes in full boost(closed) all the time right? Until the boost rises then it begins to open them. So while idleing the vanes with be at max boost correct? Now i wouldn't see this as a problem when the car is cold as the back pressure and extra air would aid in cold running. But it seems you would want it to open when idleing warm so the heat would decrease more(faster). Does this sound crazy or just hard to make it work?

jimfoo i'm still waiting on the transfer. But if you didn't mind i would like the actuator with it. Just so i have options.

jimfoo · « **Reply #8 on:** May 05, 2007, 04:24:13 pm »

It wouldn't make that much difference when idling, but when cruising at less than close to full boost, it would be restrictive. Plus if you ever blew a hose off, the turbo would be making max boost with no wastegate to regulate it
unless you put an external one on. I did buy one, but will wait to see if I need it or not.

foxracer1 · « **Reply #9 on:** May 09, 2007, 09:45:03 pm »

After thinking about it for a while and seeing the pics you had up. i understand now. I feel this is a very effective way to set it up. looks good and i feel i will be mocking this set up.

jimfoo · « **Reply #10 on:** June 05, 2007, 09:06:47 am »

A few pics of my current progress

This is where the cables hook to the pedal linkage. Vane control is on the left, throttle on the right.

This is the bracket on the other end. The cable on the right is for manual vane control, and is from an old choke cable. The nice thing about it is that it has a switch built in to let you know it's on. The bad thing is that when boost is reached and the actuator opens the vanes, it pulls the cable back somewhat, so I may have to buy a locking one instead. I have it as I think I may want faster response when off-road.

This is how the 2 cables connect to the fane control cable. The manual control has 2 springs to limit the required knob travel.

jimfoo · « **Reply #11 on:** June 05, 2007, 09:13:42 am »

Some more pics.

My oil coolers, lexan fan shroud and fan.

My final turbo plumbing. It's amazing how my once roomy engine compartment is getting filled up.

My Saab intercooler. I'm not quite sure how to mount it yet, but it probably will involve welding aluminum plate on it, like I did for the radiator. I am also probably putting a small fan in front of it.

deepmud · « **Reply #12 on:** June 06, 2007, 05:22:06 pm »

FWIW, I had a similar intercooler on my old Renault 2.1 TD Cherokee - I always felt that making the air do all that bending around to get in and out of the intercooler made it restrictive - I'd recommend a DSM intercooler from EBAY (sometimes less than $25) or I even spotted another massive volvo unit like mine today.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Intercooler-from-volvo-great-for-project_W0QQitemZ320123879703QQihZ011QQcategoryZ33742QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

I realize bar and plate is more efficient, but the tube/fin this big will cool efficiently and be low restrictin because if it's size.

Also you need to get the intercooler up close to the radiator to get good airflow between the two - big gaps will let the intercooler tend to block air from the radiator.

The Pachyderm Pursuer will ride again!

jimfoo · « **Reply #13 on:** June 06, 2007, 10:20:55 pm »

It is all 2.5" tubing to the IC except where it has to neck down for the turbo and intake, so I don't think it will be too restrictive. I am planning to put a small fan with its own shroud in front of the IC so that it gets airflow even if the engine fan is off. If I find it doesn't seem that effective, than I may change it later.

deepmud · « **Reply #14 on:** June 06, 2007, 11:10:27 pm »

the tubing looks great!
The intercooler itself will have some pressure drop. For instance, I tried my 2.1 TD without the intercooler - at 6 or 7psi 65mph cruise, it was a slight increase in economy - but at 10 psi I felt the power loss. But it should be pretty effective for it's size at lower flow rates, I think.

Can't hurt much $$ to experiment, you are using sensible Ebay parts and rubber hoses rather than multi-hundred dollar custom intercooler and silicone hoses

I really look forward to hearing how the VNT works for you over the K14 - I hope you get all the low rpm power and greatly increased high rpm flow/economy.