Author Topic: Choosing headgasket after head milling  (Read 5830 times)

May 02, 2007, 07:57:03 pm

rallydiesel

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Choosing headgasket after head milling
« on: May 02, 2007, 07:57:03 pm »
I am going to be pulling my head soon and chances are the head will need to be milled. I am wondering, if the head is milled, do I need to use a thicker HG? If so, how would I go about measuring the thickness of the head to find what size HG I would need?

In other words, will I run into valve/piston contact if I run the original thickness HG? I am planning on using a metal HG with ARP studs for re-assembly.

Thanks for any advice.
2006 Jetta TDI - gtb1749v, Malone 2, Frank's Titan 2 cam, VR6 clutch....
1991 Jetta TD - sold :(
2001 Golf TDI - Son's
1981 Rabbit - BEW tdi swap project

"ONCE YOU GO CLACK, YOU NEVER GO BACK"

Reply #1May 02, 2007, 10:17:07 pm

Vincent Waldon

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Choosing headgasket after head milling
« Reply #1 on: May 02, 2007, 10:17:07 pm »
Greetings fellow canuck.

The head was (mostly!) flat before you mill it and will be flat after you mill it, so as it happens the standard method of determining the head gasket thickness (measuring piston protrusion height)  is independent of milling the head (unlike gassers where the combustion chamber is mostly formed in the head).

Here's the relevant passage from The Gospel According to Robert Bentley:

http://www.oneilcastro.com/A2Bentley/GE01/ch6.2.3.html

You're switching over to the 1.9 gasket which I believe has slightly different ranges between versions of the gasket so you may need to track down the relevant thicknesses and match them up... something we need to add to a FAQ someday.


Vince
Vince

Edmonton, Alberta, Canada
2001 silver TDI Jetta Malone Stage 1.5 , 2001 blue TDI Jetta SBIII 216s Malone Stage 3, 1970 Bay Window bus

Gone but not forgotten: 1969/1971 Beetles, 1969/1974 Westies, 1979 Rabbit, 1986 TD Jetta, 1992 gas Jetta, 1994 TD Jetta

Reply #2May 03, 2007, 07:48:40 am

MacGyver

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Choosing headgasket after head milling
« Reply #2 on: May 03, 2007, 07:48:40 am »
I'd bet a common consensus around here would be to use the thickest gasket you can, then use that as an excuse to crank the fuel & boost up a little, you know, not for performance, but because you had to :twisted:

Reply #3May 03, 2007, 08:31:06 am

jimfoo

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Choosing headgasket after head milling
« Reply #3 on: May 03, 2007, 08:31:06 am »
Quote from: "Vincent Waldon"
Greetings fellow canuck.
You're switching over to the 1.9 gasket which I believe has slightly different ranges between versions of the gasket so you may need to track down the relevant thicknesses and match them up... something we need to add to a FAQ someday.


Vince

My manual for the 1.9 states:
1 hole - .0260 - .0339
2 hole - .0343 - .0354
3 hole - .0358 - .0402
 I have no idea why there are gaps in the ranges.
Jim
1966 Land-Rover 88" with 1.9 1Z which has been transformed to an M-TDI
TFO35 mechanically controlled VNT, IC , and 2.5" exhaust.
Driven daily

Reply #4May 03, 2007, 08:33:43 am

rallydiesel

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Choosing headgasket after head milling
« Reply #4 on: May 03, 2007, 08:33:43 am »
Thank you very much! So the milling amount will be so small that it doesn't affect the valve to piston clearance?
2006 Jetta TDI - gtb1749v, Malone 2, Frank's Titan 2 cam, VR6 clutch....
1991 Jetta TD - sold :(
2001 Golf TDI - Son's
1981 Rabbit - BEW tdi swap project

"ONCE YOU GO CLACK, YOU NEVER GO BACK"

Reply #5May 03, 2007, 02:04:22 pm

jtanguay

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Choosing headgasket after head milling
« Reply #5 on: May 03, 2007, 02:04:22 pm »
Quote from: "MacGyver"
I'd bet a common consensus around here would be to use the thickest gasket you can, then use that as an excuse to crank the fuel & boost up a little, you know, not for performance, but because you had to :twisted:


hehe  :twisted:  cold starts would be a bit shaky, but o well!


This is how we deal with porn spammers! You've been warned.

Reply #6May 03, 2007, 02:54:14 pm

rallydiesel

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Choosing headgasket after head milling
« Reply #6 on: May 03, 2007, 02:54:14 pm »
I guess I could have the machine shop machine the valve seats the same amount they took off the head.
2006 Jetta TDI - gtb1749v, Malone 2, Frank's Titan 2 cam, VR6 clutch....
1991 Jetta TD - sold :(
2001 Golf TDI - Son's
1981 Rabbit - BEW tdi swap project

"ONCE YOU GO CLACK, YOU NEVER GO BACK"

Reply #7May 04, 2007, 08:12:28 am

Vincent Waldon

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Choosing headgasket after head milling
« Reply #7 on: May 04, 2007, 08:12:28 am »
Quote from: rallydiesel
Thank you very much! So the milling amount will be so small that it doesn't affect the valve to piston clearance?


It's my understanding that yes, the small amount milled off the head doesn't lower the valves enough to cause them to hit the pistons, assuming your timing is good of course.

Mind you, VW says not to mill the heads in the first place, so what do we know ??!!!!

BTW, the other thing to keep in mind is that if the head is quite warped the cam bearing alignment may well be off... this is something for your machine shop to check and if there's a problem they will need to align-bore the cam bearings.  When you hand off the head give them the cam and the top cam plates and nuts as well so that they can do it all at once for ya.
Vince

Edmonton, Alberta, Canada
2001 silver TDI Jetta Malone Stage 1.5 , 2001 blue TDI Jetta SBIII 216s Malone Stage 3, 1970 Bay Window bus

Gone but not forgotten: 1969/1971 Beetles, 1969/1974 Westies, 1979 Rabbit, 1986 TD Jetta, 1992 gas Jetta, 1994 TD Jetta